Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What better place to hideout than the Donut Shop? In other words - right in plane sight where the cops hangout . . . they would never suspect you being there.

Quoted from Mancave:

I have heard that sometimes the shaft can get slightly bent over time so it ends up with a tight spot on the mesh of the gears. It's a normal 12V motor so it will have a positive tab and a negative tab. Remove the motor from the assembly and hook up to a 12 Volt battery, won't matter if you have the pos/neg wires on the wrong tabs, it won't burn out, just spin in the opposite direction. At least this test will tell you for sure if the motor has died. If the motor works it will be either a binding issue with the gears or a power issue.

Quoted from Mancave:

To be honest, the manual doesn't specify and there's nothing identifying AC on the motor casing. I don't see why it would be AC? Most 12V lines in pinball machines are DC that i know of.

Quoted from Mancave:

Although i've seen many DC powered items that have had various combo's of wire colour (Red, Green) (Black, White) (Yellow,Black) and also (Red,Red) you are correct, the motor is 12VAC. Just did some research.
By the way, these motors are still available from marco's, although a repro "beefed up" version supposedly. Handy to know if Red's motor is cactus. Seems testing AC motors is an intriguing process

Quoted from weaverj:

you guys replace batteries while on? is it really that dangerous?

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

BTW, the above pic reminds me about something. I currently don't have a topper on my Getaway, as I think the standard one that goes over the lamp just looks plain stupid. This is not a criticism of those of you who have it, but of the design - "Williams Hot Action Pinball", what marketing/design genius came up with that? This is in addition to the generic non-themed graphics and overall daintiness of the topper. Has anyone ever come up with an alternate topper for this pin? If not, does anyone have some creative ideas for one that maybe would inspire me to work on a design?

Quoted from weaverj:

here's a players HS2 that just popped up on clist for any lurkers in here:
newyork.craigslist.org link

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Mustangpaul did the 1st one, I used his method but with a twist using star post lights opposed to light strips (just happen to have them on hand and they fit the gauges perfectly), maybe this will help but yours looks fine as is...

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Rick really needs to chill if you ask me!

Quoted from tiltmonster:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/

Quoted from kdunbar:

Has anyone ever hit the EB in video mode?

Quoted from kdunbar:

Yes, if I stay on one side it pops up on the other side most of the time in 5th gear.

Quoted from Mancave:

I had the spare time to go and have a good look at my machine. My SC leg is attached to the front post, the 2 posts behind are the double ring posts you mention. The back one of these by the looks of it has had the thread cut off and grinded flat on top, the front one still has some thread left on it (although not enough to mount too). As you can see by the pics the SC leg is bent back towards the double ring posts if anything NOT forward to meet the front sleeve post. I know that the rest of the SC mounts correctly to all the mounting posts so it looks like my machine has been stuffed with by the previous owner
I'm gonna need to order one of those 02-4036-1 post's also by the looks of it. Does your SC leg have a distinctive bend backwards?? cause mine is going to need to bend back a little more to meet the new post.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, started a new PinSound topic: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/edit/3715636#ctop

Quoted from Mancave:

I presume it was this thread Mr T >>> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tantrums-guide-to-pinsound
please forgive the imposition

Quoted from pinballjah:

Any suggestions on restoring the front decals and damage caused by the lock bar? Thanks.

Quoted from Bos98:

I contemplated putting some old AutoMeter gauges I have floating around here somewhere in to the machine, but I rather not deal with the desire that would arise to make them functional.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

And here is my keychain in action.
2 more keychain spots left if there are any additional takers. $7 shipped to continental US (I will ship outside US too, but will have to calculate custom rate).

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Dremel tool, hacksaw, and brute strength. You have to physical cut off the original and there is no going back. I don't know what kind of plastic/rubber they used for the original knob cover, but seems like some kind of alien/NASA compound that is indestructible. Once off, you just add the knob of your choosing that fits the shaft and has set screws to hold it on. If you will keyword search this thread you will find step-by-step directions and other examples of how to do it.

Quoted from grumpy712:

Is this a prototype? The gaps are too big and the plastic is too thin. It just don't look right maybe it's the paint scheme. Sorry

Quoted from grumpy712:

Well to me the plastic by the nut is to thin and it's not going to last. It's going to break with air balls. Are you going to lose the side plastic as well? That's where I have one of my police cars. That big gap plus those metal tabs just don't look right to me. Maybe it'll look better with the plastic reinstall. I do like the tunnel entrance with the 1992 on it though.

Quoted from grumpy712:

Did somebody get their feelings hurt?

Quoted from Premier:

yes

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just went up to measure the bracket, and guess what . . . I don't have one (no wonder I never noticed it).
Can anyone confirm if this is the correct part: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10904

Quoted from Charger500:

Interesting, I only have the bracket that is attached to the supercharger side. I don't have nor see a place to attach the right sided bracket as shown here.
Wait, is that a mirror bladed image on the right?

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Dude, all this hassle? or for less than six bucks...
ebay.com link » Williams Getaway Pinball Machine Left Back Corner Playfield Plastic

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Since i'm in such a chatty mood, I decided to share how I made my speaker panel gauges light up without spending $225. I did this for free and about 4 hours of work... But I have a ton of spare parts, but if you had to buy the stuff to do it, it would cost under $20.

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Piece a cake... (Yes, I know the DMD is upside-down in the pic, I realized it before I put it back in the game.)

Quoted from Charger500:

So I’m cleaning and waxing the playfield today and decide to unscrew the stoplight to clean around and under it. It’s then that I see a screw under the stop sign. And I think, why not move the stoplight back from being attached at the end of that plastic to further up on that plastic. It fits back there and to me almost seems like that’s where it should have been from the beginning.

Quoted from Charger500:

I have room. Weird.

Quoted from Charger500:

I have room. Weird.

Quoted from BudManPinFan:

Hey guys, I’m selling a few mods I took off my HS2. I’ve got the Donut Heaven mod and the small lighted police car, both by Mezel Mods. I’m asking $50 for both of them, plus $5 for shipping in the continental U.S. They both work fine, just decided to take my pin back to stock. If you check the Mezel Mods website the Donut Heaven costs $60 and the lighted police car costs $50, so this is a deal.

Quoted from chubtoad13:

What’s the going rate range for a getaway?
I’m thinking about parting with mine, but I haven’t watched the market on this game.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Here in TX, people are asking more but I think low to mid $2K's is fair before restoration and tasteful upgrades.

Quoted from Charger500:

They came yesterday. Install soon.

Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

It appears to be Pinball Life (invoice is in the picture).

Quoted from Charger500:

The parts are A-17749.1-1 for the left and A-17749.1-2 for the right.

Quoted from Charger500:

Damn, these new glides are so smooth. Didn’t know they were supposed to work this nice. Glad I did it. Worth the cost. Tightened the cab bolts while in there.

Quoted from Charger500:

I set the playfield on the sled-type rails on the cabinet floor and used two bungee cords around the head. Before re now that was the only was to keep it up.

Quoted from Charger500:

SWMBO helped hold it up while I strapped it.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

I just use 2x4's stacked under the upright pf then shim it for the final lift.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

I did this with my Jackbot when I removed the pf, the lift rails came right off no problem. LOL I did this though to sand the inside of the cabinet walls down so I could put mirror blades on. My garage door motor came in handy.

Quoted from pkrobin:

Or you just reach in and lift the playfield out with two hands

Quoted from pkrobin:

Fair 'nuff but you also have an engine hoist which seems safer to me than the garage door method.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

When you do that knock out the big bolts and repaint them.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

It's a start then.

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Its pot-metal, extremely hard if not impossible to weld. Even if you managed to get weld to stick, it would break right off under any strain.
The new style type are made of good mild-steel, and could be welded, but wont crack or break in the first place.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Allow me to summarize:
- Old ones are junk and made out of some type of low quality metal (may even vary by machine)
- Repaired or not repaired, they are still cheap junk that will fail again
- New ones are relatively cheap, made out of a superior material to the originals
- Better get your new ones while they are still available since there's a run on them at PBL

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Yeah, I don't know, mine are the original lifts and they still work fine, I think if you take your time lifting the PF they may last but that's not to say I'm not tempted to swap them out it's just not high on my priority list.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah mine are original and are perfect too. Same with my Jackbot.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

chirp, chirp, chrip (sound of crickets) . . . anybody?

Quoted from tiltmonster:

Yes, but there is some sort of relay board that connects to the driver board and the service box... hmmm, so in theory it could be done but then I'm not sure where you would mount the board. So lets say it would be best to run it off of the service outlet so everything is contained within the cabinet

Quoted from gunstarhero:

It would be cool if someone did custom art for the Getaway cab, gotta admit even in good shape it’s not a beauty.
I’m a little shocked the “white” lines were originally red!! That’s unbelievable fade.

Quoted from Mancave:

I've finally gotten around to replacing my slide rails which i knew had been busted for some time, as i've mentioned before, too many projects and not enough time for them all I know this has been brought up before in the thread but seems a good time to mention it again for all new members and perhaps some of the older one's also. Check out pic/exhibit A: the original completely MUNTED rails and what the long term after effects of said munted rails can do to the wooden guides in the cab and also the damage to the underneath of the playfield - see pic/exhibit B:
Now i must mention that the damage to the playfield was already there when i got my machine (about 5 years ago) so who knows how long those slide rails had been stuffed. Final note is ** If your machine has original slide rails then visually check them, if they are bent or cause issues then replace them as soon as you can!
And yeah i know, need to reattach the braid