Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mr_tantrum.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Also, while the spinner first run commitment list is open, do any of you on the list have desires/ideas for different decals that what I show? If so, please post for all to see as others may like what you do. I'm not committing to do them all, but I would be open to some standards as well as a customized standard (e.g. an interstate sign but with your interstate number of choice, etc.)
Quoted from punkin:Not doing a restore any longer, so not in the market, but these are everywhere here. Put the right image on the back and he'd hop.
[quoted image]
If I have any Aussie takers, that's a definite option (I like the hopping idea).
Okay, I have 10 commitments. I'm going to leave the first run window open for another 24 hours or so, then I'll give a warning tomorrow, then the window will be closed, all commitments for first run will be locked, then I will PM each participant for payment. Again, the mod is $75 with US shipping, and international shipping will be added where needed (typically about an additional $10 to most countries - some may be more).
BTW, as an option, if there is anyone who would really like to have the spinner, but is not comfortable with the soldering onto an existing switch or doesn't really care if the spinner scores, I'm willing to offer the spinner assembly without a switch and wiring for a $10 discount of $65 with US shipping. If you've already committed and would prefer this arrangement, please PM me letting me know. For those of you will haven't committed yet but will be, please let me know at that time your preference.
Played several games tonight, and the spinner has performed flawlessly. However, one things is bothering me - the forward protruding switch mount on the left. Things are a little tight, but I just designed a new bracket with a rear protruding mount and am printing it now (will be tomorrow before I can test). Will be a tight fit, but I think it will work and look better . . . more to come.
Quoted from Kobaja:https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04954-3d-coin-reject-buttons-who-dunnit
Can anyone do something liek this for getaway?[quoted image][quoted image]
If you go to the Pinside shop and search "reject" you will find several of these, including a set for Getaway with traffic lights.
Getaway Spinner Update Announcement
With 13 commitments, I've decided to close the first run for the spinner mods at 12:00 noon Central tomorrow, Wednesday 3/24. Therefore, if you want to get in on the first run, now is the time to do so. There may or may not be a second run depending on future demand. As a reminder, I'm offering the mod in two varieties:
$75 - Includes switch and wiring to solder to leads of a nearby lane switch for scoring
$65 - Comes without switch and wiring, and functions as a non-scoring spinner
(above prices include US shipping - international shipping is extra and will be quoted)
Reminders:
- Drilling holes for screw mounting is optional (based upon my testing so far the tape I include is enough to secure the spinner)
- You will not need to modify the plastic to install the spinner
To those of you on the commitment list, I'll be sending out payment info today/tomorrow.
Quoted from transprtr4u:On the new spinner , what will be point value per spin?
I just checked, and it is 10,000 per spin - it is what the lower left loop switch awards (the one above the 3 triangle inserts on left loop) since that's what I tap into.
Spinner Update . . .
I think the new bracket looks much better. Also note how I ran the wire through the natural space between the two plastics (it's nearly invisible from the player's perspective). Now I need to work on some decal designs.
Reminder, you must get on the list by no later than noon central tomorrow and pay by 11:00pm in order to be included on this initial run.
IMG_5664 (resized).JPGIMG_5665 (resized).JPG
Man, I need to get the Novus out and clean those posts.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Hey T, props on the spinner, I agree, it was lacking in HS2, this seems like such a simple thing that is left out on many titles but iconic for its time on HS. I'd be down for one but I currently have some driver board issues that I'm working on fixing. The points and the sound are what makes a spinner great, perhaps you addressed this in one of the posts but can you clarify for the record how this works.
I'm tying it into the lower left loop switch. There is a sound associated with that switch, but what I've noticed is that there is a sequence of sounds anytime you make the left loop, so it kind of gets lost. The points associated with that switch are minimal at 10,000 per tripping.
Quoted from Malenko:paid and excited!
I think a little sheet of like 10 stickers would be a great addition. I cant decide what I'd want on the spinner, but I already have a wrong way on the 1 way gate by the launcher
I will be developing some decal options (probably this weekend) for people to choose from. I'm still taking ideas (front and back).
Only 4 more hours to get in on the first run of Getaway spinners and join the 16 others who have already committed. If you want one, please let me know ASAP, and all payments are due by this evening.
There may or may not every be a second run, as I want to do these in bunches (minimum of 10) instead of one-offs due to the parts that must be ordered to build them.
Getaway Spinner Run #1 is closed. Thank you to all of those participating. I will be ordering parts today, and will be working on decal options this weekend. I'm estimating at least 2 weeks to complete everything, and will post general updates as I move along.
FYI to all spinner buyer: I've ordered all of the components and started production of the 3D printed brackets (about 40 hours in print time will be required). I wanted to let everyone know that even though this first run is locked, I did purchase enough components to make a couple of extra. I do this in case I receive any faulty/broken parts. In the end, if I have enough working parts to make an additional spinner mod or two, then I will announce and those will go to the first people to commit. If you missed the first run and want to be on the reserved list for these potential extras (will be 2 or 3 at most), please let me know and I'll take the first 3 names for first right of refusal if/when I offer the extras.
Quoted from sparksterz:Are you using standard carbon steel balls...
This brings up a question: has anyone done supercharger performance comparisons with carbon steel balls vs. chrome steel? I've always used chrome steel in Getaway (super shiny) but wondering if I would get better loop speeds out of carbon.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I would be interested in seeing if there are potential ball magnetizing differences between shooting a ball into the Supercharger and shooting two balls into the Supercharger so they’re looping around together. I do this quite a bit in multiball when relighting the jackpot, 10 loops at a time. If you shoot the first ball in and then the second right after it at the same time you have the third ball in the kickout hole while it plays the “he went in the tunnel” animation, you can have those two balls going around the Supercharger I would estimate at least 30 times before they divert out. That’s the most strenuous test I can think of to put it through while in normal gameplay mode.
I've never had any magnetization issues with chrome steel in Getaway, and I've had plenty of double and triple ball supercharger events. However, I helped a friend buy a World Cup Soccer recently and we were having weird issues. Turns out that the pin magnetized the balls on the first use with it's magnasave and magnetic ball lock mech. Repeated test with new balls, and again in the first game they had issues (where sticking together and not launching in the ball trough). Bought some carbon steel balls for that game, and they work perfectly. I think the difference of travelling through a magnetic field in Getaway verses actually being captured by an electromagnet in WCS made a significant impact on magnetizing the balls.'
If you want to do a simple test, take the balls out, place them on a flat surface, then slowly move one ball towards another. If their is an attraction (even a small one), then you should replace them. Similarly, if you stick two balls together and pull the leading ball and the ball behind it travels with it, then that confirms they are magnetized.
Making a little spinner progress.
- Wires are cut and ends stripped & tinned
- About half the brackets are printed
- Switches, spinners, and hardware are ordered
Will work on decal designs for front and back this weekend. If you've ordered a spinner, please PM me (or post publicly) your ideas if you've not done so already.
IMG_5687 (resized).JPGSOLD
I have an extra large plastic if anyone is interested $15 including US shipping. I originally bought this thinking I needed a donor plastic as I was developing my spinner, but the final design doesn't require any cutting of the plastic.
First one to PM me gets it.
For those who purchased my spinner mod, here are the ideas for signs from you and from ones I thought would be good. Please let me know what other designs you would like to see. A decal will go on front and back, and can be the same or different. Also, the Interstate sign can be customized to any city and Interstate number you would like. For example, I thought the idea of a speed limit sign on front with the spray painted sign on back might be kind of cool when it spins.
01 (resized).jpg02 (resized).jpg03 (resized).jpg04 (resized).jpg05 (resized).jpg06 (resized).jpg07 (resized).jpg08 (resized).jpg10 (resized).jpgQuoted from AlexRogan84:So I'll definitely be getting some plain old fashioned carbon steel balls in the near future for my Getaway.
Pinball Life sells these, and they are pretty shiny: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-pinball-standard-size.html
Quoted from AlexRogan84:There were times when I was playing and the balls acted like they had "English" on them. And I mean like a pool ball or cue ball does when you hit it with your cue a little off centre.
I play with silicone rings/rubbers, and they tend to grip the ball more which does cause some English at times.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Anyone think of a spot or two on the game where they've had cleaner or wax hide and smudge up the balls because you didn't realize it was there? I've looked all over and can't find anything obvious.
I've not experienced this.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Just to clarify, it is the metallic properties that lead to balls getting magnetized and not how shiny they are, right? Like carbon steel, even when super shiny, won't get magnetized? Yet the chrome ones are more prone to getting magnetized? Just trying to understand how it happens to help me figure out what I need to do or change on the game if it isn't just my ball choice.
Correct: chrome steel balls get magnetized rather easily vs. using carbon steel balls in magnet games. Again, I've personally not had issues in Getaway with my Titan super shiny chrome balls, but when using these same balls in World Cup Soccer, they magnetized the first game. We put carbon balls in the WCS, and they play perfectly without becoming magnetized for dozens of games at this point.
I don't see how the polish of the ball would impact magnetization in any way, but I'm not a physicist who specializes in the magnetic field (pun intended).
Spinner Update . . .
- UPS just delivered a few more parts
- I'm 3D printing the last bracket right now (it's a good things as I'm about to run out of silver filament, and it's on backorder)
- Still awaiting the switch screws to arrive
- Still need to apply the adhesive tape to the brackets
- I installed mine from scratch again today, and took photos of everything so I can author installation instructions with visuals
IMG_5733.JPGQuoted from fast_in_muskoka:How about Ritchie’s car, with headlights on / off ?
Quoted from transprtr4u:Or the back end !
Those are good ideas.
FYI, I shipped most of the spinners today (those of you who ordered other items will take me another couple of days to get everything made). My plan is to write the installation instructions tonight, then I'll send everyone their tracking numbers with a link to the instructions. There were a variety of sign combinations and they all look good when spinning, so I think everyone is going to be happy.
Quoted from Kobaja:I just installed a pinduino, BUT not with the lightstrip which is sold with it. It is too wide and does not provide sufficient clearance. I stead I ordered a slm one to give more space.
It is WS2812B, 60 LED/m, 5V, 3 pad, 4mm
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000982748876.html
Works VERY well. I recommend to get this in stead. See the photo for why.
[quoted image]
Trying to decide if I should go white or black strip. I have black strip now and it looks good, do you have have any pics of the white strip installed?
I just ordered the 4mm black version from Ebay: ebay.com link: Narrow DC 5V WS2812B Led Strip Individually Addressable WS2812 Led pixel Light
I just spent a couple of days trying to figure out my supercharger speed issues - again. Since I've owned the pin, it has always been slow (average above 130 and never dropped below 120). I thought I had done everything: I've tested all the magnets and they fire, I replaced the accelerator board with a brand new one, I've replaced all of the optos, I've cleaned and even waxed the entire inside of the loop (even under the magnets), and even removed my Pinduino lighting. Yet, I still couldn't do any better than around a 130 average.
Then I was chatting with tampa12 and he mentioned how fast he had gotten his supercharger to run . . . I was jealous. He shared with me how many ohms resistance each of his coils have, and how much idle and fire state voltage was being sent to them. I got out my meter and all of my coils had between 3.2 to 4.0 ohms (which is acceptable), idle voltage was about 3 volts on each coil, and when activated by blocking the corresponding optos it jumped up to almost 50 volts at times. During the testing, however, I noticed that the center coil didn't always have constant voltage when idle. After some playing around, I determined the issue was a bad wire/connection inside the plug that provides power to the coil. I happen to have what I need to extract the wires and re-pin them. After doing this I was getting a constant 3 volts.
Unfortunately, after testing I shaved a few ticks off my timing but still couldn't get anything below 120. Then tampa12 shared with me that he used synthetic oil to very lightly lube the inside of his supercharger loop. I didn't have any and was willing to go buy a quart just for this, but then remembered I had a small amount of silicone oil which is a good clear and safe lubricant. I applied a very light coating on the inside surfaces of the supercharger loop, went into supercharger speed test, and was blown away. I was now getting average times in the low 90's and even dropped below 90 a couple of times.
I've since played a few games, and the extra supercharger speed is awesome! I then figured I would reinstall my Pinduino lighting and even applied it where it was about 1mm above the top of the loop. I put the pin in supercharger test mode, and now my average was approaching 110. I took the lighting back off, and I'm back down to the low 90's, which is what led me to ordering the light strip I reference at the first of this post based upon the lighting @sprudeldudel suggested.
I know this is a lengthy post, but hopefully others who are in a similar situation as I was will find this information to be helpful.
Quoted from Paseb:Can you show a picture where you put the oil? (Is it car engine oil lol ???)
Id like to try that aswell.
We also replaced all the optics and its not quicker...
I used silicone oil, but tampa12 used actual synthetic motor oil (a very thin coating is all that is required).
You don't really need a picture, as you do the entire inner surface (bottom and both sides) around the entire loop. I used a microfiber clock, put the silicon oil on that (a few drops at a time), and literally rubbed the entire inner surface of the metal supercharger loop (the bottom and both sides). I also did the same to the diverter where it faces the inside of the loop, and I took the cloth and pushed it back and forth inside the supercharger where the magnets are.
BTW, what are your current supercharger test times?
Have you tested the resistance and voltage on each coil? If so, where those readings in line? If not, here is a good video that walks you through things:
Quoted from Kobaja:Guys, oil is not a good hack. It will crawl along the surface of anything and any dust caused will stick to it.
Obviously it's your machines but I don't think this is a good idea at all.
Why don't you use the playfield wax in stead. That also has a lubricating effect without the downsides of oil...
I've tried carnuba wax before, but didn't get the same results. I'm not too concerned with an ultra thin layer of clear silicone oil, but I see how things go. If it ends up being a dirt magnet then I'll go back to wax.
Quoted from Paseb:Thx,
We havnt check voltage. With your video, i now understand how to do it. Will repott back in the next few days.
As for supercharger test, it was in the 150 if i remember right, i will recheck and report.
Quoted from Paseb:This?
amazon.com link »
I have something from years ago where I used to work that just states on the bottle it is pure silicone oil. If you've not tried waxing the interior of the loop you may want to try that first to see how it does for you. Otherwise, from looking at the description of that product, it should do the trick.
Haven't really played much Getaway lately, but I've put several games after resolving my supercharger issues. It is so much more fun with just that little added speed element. Probably the coolest thing is how fast the ball feeds down the left wireframe after the supercharger ejects it.
Quoted from Kobaja:What timings do you have now?
Low 90’s, dipping below that at times. I was averaging 130 and never dropping below 120.
Quoted from monkfe:what's everyone using for this "mile 0" bracket?
[quoted image]
Mine already had the bracket. A few years ago, TheOnlyest posted a post alternative he came up with.
Well, I'm back in the Pinduino game on my supercharger loop. Just to refresh, I was having some supercharger speed issues and the Pinduino LED strip was one of a few factors causing the slow downs. So, I removed the strip and ordered a thinner one off eBay. The new strip work exactly like the old, but is less than half the width and doesn't obstruct the ball whatsoever.
IMG_5824 (resized).JPGIMG_5825 (resized).JPGIMG_5826 (resized).JPGQuoted from transprtr4u:like the shifter mod on your game @ MrTantrum
Thanks, but I forgot to turn it on for the photo.
Quoted from marioparty34:I would love to join the club. If anyone has a suped up one for sale, please DM me. Thx!
It's a zero sum gain - for you to join the club, someone must leave the club . . . happy and sad at the same time.
Quoted from Grangeomatic:Hey, where's the best place to get that key for the start button? I've looked around, but none look as cool as in the pics above.
Thanks,
Jeff
Mezel Mods has it in green or red. I originally bought green but didn't like it, so switched to red: https://mezelmods.com/collections/the-getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-mods/products/getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-led-key-mod?variant=888124621
Quoted from marioparty34:I was hoping for happy and happy at the same time.
I just meant that the group is always a little sad when someone leaves us (wasn't thinking about the seller), but happy when a newcomer joins. These pins do seem to come up fairly often (they produced over 13,000 of them), so I wish you the best and a short waiting time.
Quoted from marioparty34:BTW, Yours looks AMAZING!
Thanks. Since you are fairly local to me (north Fort Worth near Texas Motor Speedway), you're welcome to come over and play it.
Quoted from Cidco:Mr_Tantrum any possibility of a link to the led strip on eBay?
Thanks!
Here you go: ebay.com link: itm
Quoted from Buthamburg:Hi. I have not received an email from you yet. Maybe it will still come.
2 People on the pre-order list wrote to me that they are not able to purchase at the moment.
What is the price in USD including shipping to USA? Are the oranges UV reactive like on the original playfield?
Quoted from Buthamburg:Yes, the orange is the UV reactive orange like the original.
The price including shipping to the US and CAN Euro 860, US$ 1040,oo
I am so tempted, but I've never done a playfield swap and just trying to think through things to determine if I want to undertake such a project.
Quoted from monkfe:I saw someone send their super charger out to get polished...where did you send it? Also for those of you that have added the led lighting to it is it just a simple led strip or is it connected to a micro controller..I've seen one mod for that...but pricey
Do not "polish" your supercharger, you will ruin it (trust me, I tried on my first one not realizing that any type of polishing compound will destroy the finish). You could probably have it "chromed", but may be cheaper just to buy a new one (about $70 at Marco Specialties).
Quoted from monkfe:Isn't it just stainless steel? Could have been the chromed one cant recall and cant find the pic...but ok either way...
No, it is plastic with a plastic "chrome" finish (sort of like the chrome on today's plastic care interiors that will flake off). I think it is a vapor deposit of nickel, actually. My mistake was thinking it was metal when I tried to polish mine. I ended up painting it, but in the end bit the bullet and bought a new one.
Oh, that makes sense. Yes, you can indeed polish or have polished the metal loop. Not sure who might do it as a service, but should be a fairly straight forward DIY.
As many of you know due to my unadulterated self-promotion in this thread over the last few years, I offer several 3D printed and decal mods for Getaway. My very first mod was a set of target decals which have remained the same now for over 5 years. However, a Getaway owner asked me for new gauge designs that incorporated the gauge art from the pin itself. Well, I liked them so much I installed them on my pin and I'm going to offer them moving forward in addition to my original design. The three gauges are the Turbo and Turbo Boost gauges that are featured on the sling plastics and the third is a Nitro gauge from the speaker panel.
The decals are made using a photo quality printer on ultra gloss photo paper, covered with a clear gloss vinyl laminate, backed with thick shock absorbing mounting tape, punched out in a perfect circle, and then perimeter edge is colored the same as outside border of each decal.
The cost for either 15 target decal set is currently $25 (US postage included), and I'll ship internationally on a per quote basis. Also, if you already own a set of my target decals but like the new design better, I'll sell you a set of the new gauges only (6 pieces) for $10. Like all my stuff, PM me if interested in ordering.
Original gauge target decals (my original hand cut set installed on my pin for about 5 years)
IMG_5901 (resized).JPGIMG_5902 (resized).JPGIMG_5903 (resized).JPG
New gauge target decals (cut with a punch to achieve a perfect circle shape)
IMG_5904 (resized).JPGIMG_5905 (resized).JPGIMG_5906 (resized).JPG
Traffic light decals (same on both sets - again my original hand cut ones)
IMG_5899 (resized).JPGIMG_5900 (resized).JPG
Quoted from transprtr4u:little understated... bought several items the quality is great! the customer service is outstanding! The products ship quickly!
buy with confidence.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I've had a few people get onto me for posting about my stuff in the threads at times, so I embrace the criticism.
Quoted from Hapidance:I’m starting to make my comet LED list.
Is it going overboard with going with the 4 SMD non-ghosting LEDs as opposed to the single SMD non ghosting clear dome LEDs to light all the inserts?
Also thinking of blue pop bumpers and purple or red strip lighting for the back lane.
Thoughts?
I prefer the 4 SMD bulbs for inserts, I went with blue pops (I use the PBL EVO pop bumber LEDs), and for the back loop I use two spotlights with UV bulbs for mounted to the center top backboard pointing in either direction (white was a little too bright for me).
Also, here is some of the add-on lighting I did:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum, what caps did you use?
Data East/Sega Caps: https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-pop-bumper-caps.html
Quoted from Hapidance:Can two more spots be added on the bottom of the gauges?
Yes, I've seen others do it. Just to note, I have UV bulbs in my sling spots so that the orange in the center of the playfield really glows.
Quoted from Hapidance:Instead of the spots In the back, how would a UV strip work?
Just fine, I suppose. I wanted it to be more subtle, so I chose not to flood the area.
Quoted from Hapidance:Another consideration is to light up the clear posts with UV post lights .
I've done this on my AFMr and some on my Stern JP, and it looks great! If you do this, just be sure to buy however many dimmers you need to control everything as 100% bright might be too much for you (it was on both my pins).
Quoted from Hapidance:What flashers did you go with?
I like to be shocked visually when the flashers fire, so I went with Comet 13SMD bulbs for the playfield (various colors depending upon placement): https://www.cometpinball.com/products/13smd-tower-flasher
For the backbox, I used the 5 SMD Comet bulbs: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
Thanks for the input!
What standoffs did you use to replace the screws on the plastics to mount the spots?
It looks like a short post on top but what’s under it?
Another standoff and screw from underneath?
Also, I need to replace one of the carriage bolts n the cab .
I hate to ask but I don’t want to order the wrong one . Or five different ones in hopes of getting the one I really need.
When I look at the part number on the parts list it doesn’t look like the bolt I need when I look at the Marco part number
Any idea of which one I need?
I forget which ones I used as I just pulled them from my spare parts. I believe they have a thread on the bottom and I just removed the screw already securing the plastic in those position and replaced them with posts into the black plastic spacer that already exists there. They will rotate if banged with your hand while working on the playfield (I seem to do it every time), but I've not had them move during regular gameplay even with my PinSound shaker installed.
As far as the carriage bolts go, I'm not sure. Post a link to the ones you are looking at, and I'm sure someone here will be able to confirm and/or send you in the right direction.
a2c21b93c4c099a3b61d8c46e95538a40ce031f2 (resized).jpgQuoted from Moonshot:I have owned my Getaway for a few years now
Great game,
I see that leds inside the super charger are available.
Is there a kit if so which one is best ? or is it a do it your self mod ?
Thanks for the advice
If you are referring to the LED strip inside the loop, that is a Pinudino mod. Search my name and Pinduino in this thread, and you can learn all about it.
It’s not my mod (I just did a custom light program for Getaway - free for everyone), but it is available for various pins in the Pinside market.
I ordered mine as a kit to save a little since I have everything I need to solder the components on the board, but you can order it as a ready to install mod.
It definitely looks like you have the wrong armature/plunger assembly. Also, to avoid confusion when looking things up, the ball launch is the "Kicker Assembly" and the left outlane ball save is the "Kickback Assembly". According to the manual on page 2-27 the correct parts for the "Kicker Assembly" are as follows:
Bell Armature Assembly is A-15709
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709
Coil Assembly is A-14789 (don't replace this if you have the correct coil - they rarely go bad, but you might want to purchase a new coil sleeve)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14789
Coil Sleeve is #03-7067-6
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7067-6
If/when making the repair take pictures of everything first and make sure you insert the coil sleeve in the correct orientation and the leads on the coil should be oriented towards the left/lower part of the playfield (many accidentally install this backwards - mine was when I acquired the pin).
Quoted from monkfe:Mr_Tantrum's part number matches the one I have in the manual...and I just went and confirmed the measurement. 2.625 inches overall which is what marco lists it at as well....so I believe that is the correct sleeve
Yes, I actually replaced mine with these exact parts when I was having issues, and the plunger has worked flawlessly ever since.
Quoted from Malenko:I can assure you that does not happen. I built cars for almost a decade until the plant closed (Chrysler Newark,De) and it just doesn't work like that.
Maybe back in the 50s but not a chance in the modern day.
Yeah, not quite ISO/Six Sigma way of doing things.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:I have the same decal on the shooter coil cover. It came with my game though when I bought it.
Fun to see my work appearing everywhere. For the Getaway newbies, you can see all of my available mods at http://thezumwaltfamily.com/pinball
Quoted from sparksterz:Hmm...anyone have a picture that shows about what the height of the vertical right flipper guide rail should be? The ball's come out of the super charger on bad shots enough times and basically flattened it down to the playfield. I was going to fill the holes and try to redo them but was wondering about how high to go as to not make it "too" easy.
Can you post a pic of the area you are referencing?
I would fill it with wood filler, let it dry, redrill, paint and reinstall guide. If you don’t have wood filler some sawdust and glue will work.
Quoted from Mooseman:Rest in peace Dusty and thanks for one of the best pin tracks
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rip-dusty-hill-from-zz-top
Quoted from tiltmonster:Ha-ha, nice work. So is the woman Sarah Connor?
You need to change the callout too . . .
Quoted from Kobaja:Callouts is your domain. Anyway I do NOT intend to retheme, but that original driver always looked really strange to me. And thinking of sunglasses and that dead-neutral expression, only one character comes to my mind...
I loved it when I saw it, and think it would be a great Easter Egg to include in your colorization.
Quoted from tiltmonster:So yeah Mr. T, with your expertise with PinSound, you could work on that... "Sarah Connor?" "I'll be back!" "Come with me if you want to live."
I don't know, maybe it's rip off of T2 but a little spice might be cool? Probably too many issues to deal with but I'm just thinking out loud...
Happy to do it when the animation is ready.
Quoted from Scott8806:After years of looking for a good one finally found one in near new condition same owner had it from the beginning never played it have to led it and color dmd new rubbers did anyone ever make the real rpm guage to sell as a mod
That's awesome, congrats!
Quoted from tiltmonster:Sheesh, are those original cabinet decals? I thought my pin was in good condition but my goodness that looks awesome!
Yes, LED bulbs, color DMD and a few tasteful mods is the way to go. Enjoy!
I think they are based on his explanation of the pin. Isn't that incredible? I've not seen an original cabinet before that wasn't mostly pink on at least one side.
That’s the fine work of KJS
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:Ahh is that right
Thank you.
FYI, here is what you need (FYI, the yellow lens is actually orange/amber):
03-7642-12 | Insert - circle 1 inch orange starburst
03-7642-11 | Insert - circle 1 inch green starburst
03-7642-9 | Insert - circle 1 inch red starburst
Quoted from transprtr4u:best mod .... do it , makes the game so much better
PinSound is the best mod for Getaway, ColorDMD is a distant second (IMO).
Quoted from Hapidance:wamonkey
Mr_Tantrum
sound over screen .
Listening to some of mix’s I can see your guys point.
I don’t know all that much about pinsound. I need to read more of how exactly it all works. I’ll need speakers and what else? How challenging is the install?
The wonky DMD is really bugging me.
When you first turn it on over half the screen is out.
I’m leaning twords replacing the screen but I don’t want to drop a ton of cash.
Fancy is nice but I’d settle for a moderately priced color DMD.
Used???
I suppose I would settle for less than the fanciest and save Up for the sound upgrades.
The orchestrations are immersive throughout game play, and there are 33 different ones posted for download (14 of them are mine, but there are other very good ones) - https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway. Really makes the game fun, especially when combined with the PinSound shaker (again, I'm a little biased since I'm the one that developed the OEM shaker routine for Getaway). Can't say enough about this mod, but you must upgrade your speakers too in order to get the full effect of the music (the OEM speakers are crap and are mono, not stereo sound). Thus, you are looking at a fairly significant investment. You don't have to go with name brand speakers if you don't want to (you could spend less than $100 to get a decent set), but you will need the stereo wire harness from PinSound if you want the install to be simple. I currently have PinSound speakers in my Getaway, and they are a very nice upgrade.
I know there are always budged considerations, but at a minimum you would need/want a PinSound Neo, speakers (backbox and cabinet), and the stereo harness. Great options to have are the headphones station for having external volume control and orchestration changes (you can have more than 1 on your USB drive at a time and switch between them), and of course the PinSound shaker.
As far as the DMD goes, I had a PIN2DMD in mine and like it even though the colorization still needed a little work. I bought a DE JP (I've since sold it) that came with a ColorDMD. There is a great PIN2DMD colorization form JP, so I swapped them and now have a Color DMD in my Getaway. It takes some technical savvy, but thus far I prefer the PIN2DMD but at least the ColorDMD colorization is complete.
Quoted from sparksterz:I put a color dmd in my machine finally. I can now understand why people say pinsound is the better bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong it looks nice, but doesn't feel as impactful as it does on my STTNG.
If you want both but have to budget over time, I always recommend adding the PinSound first and then the ColorDMD. If you can only afford one, PinSound is always the preferred option, IMO. I'm assuming for home use, but if you were putting in a loud environment then I would flip my recommendation.
I've written long opinions on why I think this, but the gist of it is that the sound of the game is immersive to the game play and you hear it the entire duration of you game. However,, depending upon the title, you may only look at the DMD for a few seconds during game play and in between balls.
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
I’ve been working, ever so slowly, on a sign design I haven’t seen.
It’s a work in progress. Working on adding a spot for a comet light strip.
My nephew should be able to print it for me…
Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Not sure why my thoughts matter, but it's looking great (also a good alternative to the ball bracket that's in that position).
As far as the bracket goes, it will have to be printed in the orientation you show with supports. You could potentially rotate 90 decrees counter-clockwise, but not sure the rivets would come out right. If you made the rivets more spherical, then you could print rotated and w/o supports (i.e. the small base to the left of your image would be oriented to the bottom of the print).
My only other thought is why would anyone want to go to Berkeley, CA. 
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
Berkeley CA ? Eeeww no.
That would be the actual NJ Parkway exit we take for the shore New Jersey shore ( nothing like the show) I’m East
Coast ; A Different kind of crazy.
Silly me, I looked at it on my cell phone and thought that was California in the background image instead of NJ. 
BTW, I didn't mean to brush you off, but I did mean what I said. I'm in the camp that you should do to your pin whatever you like and enjoy, regardless of what anyone else thinks. With that stated, if you are earnestly seeking constructive criticism or need my help then I'm happy to give my opinion, as long as it is fully understood that it's just my opinion. Whether someone decides to take my solicited advice or not doesn't impact my attitude one way or the other.
Quoted from Hapidance:I’m not sure what you mean by turning it 90 degrees…
When printed do it in this orientation. However, those tine extensions will cause problems because there is nothing to support them. However, if you used spheres instead of cylinders, the round shape would print vertically in layers because of the progressive outcropping. Like the rivet heads on this post I made.
b825dc2d5df27bbe366ab905b844a153c19bfce4 (resized).jpgpasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
I def like your rivets better.
I really like the look of the cross braces.
The “L” is to mount (glue, tape or snap) the sign on.
What if the “L” was omitted. Any recommendations as how to attach it to the sign?
Maybe print a groove of some sort on the back of the sign so that the arm end can slide into the sign piece?
I think your model looks good, I was just trying to give some advice on how to print it w/o using supports.
To make it easy, 3D print a thin piece the shape size of the sign and just glue it to the bracket.
Quoted from Hapidance:I see what’s going on…
If I remove the rivets it should be straight forward to print. Probably wouldn’t really see the rivets anyway ….
Or
Print a top piece with rivets and glue it to a bottom with the “L” where the sign gets glued to.
Talk about over engendering a simple bracket !
Just make your rivets spherical like mine and you can still print the same way I oriented.
Quoted from golfergordy:I added The Getaway pb game to my small collection approx. 6-months ago and it gets plenty of play. 3-mos. ago I ordered a handful of parts, including (but not limited to) replacements for all the rubber and coil sleeves on the game. The existing flipper rubber was red and all the other rubber was white, and it all seemed well used and dirty with black smudges all over, but it all functioned properly. I replaced all of it with new black rubber, primarily for cosmetics and installed it immediately when I received the order. I also at the same time replaced the 3-flipper coil sleeves, and then noticed that the flippers had a tiny bit more pop. I have 2-adult sons who play the game regularly when they visit, and both confirm the slight increase in flipper power which increases the speed of the ball.
Now for the problem: The new black flipper rubber (on the left flipper) shows unusually rapid wear, considering only 3-mos. of play. I rotated the damaged portion of the flipper rubber around a bit so it now is on the drain side of the flipper and doesn't affect play (see pic). The balls appear to be in excellent condition and I often clean them off with a rag. I have also waxed the pf every 3-mos.
I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced rapid wear issues with game rubber (especially on flippers)?[quoted image]
I know some prefer rubber, but I'm 100% Titan pinball silicon bands on all my pins - no degrading and great colors. BTW, I prefer their thin bands for the flippers.
Quoted from Scandell:I unexpectedly joined the club again! As a getaway popped up on my local Craigslist. It needs some love. The previous owner was a smoker and played it in his garage without glass on it. :/
I have already deconstructed the playfield for a deep clean. Lots of rust on cabinet bolts and a few parts…but the playfield is more than decent.
I am looking for replacement ramp flaps. Front and back. Marco is sold out. Anybody have another source?
[quoted image]
Don't know if you want to do the same, but I actually used some wheel polish on mine and it removed the blue and cleaned them up pretty good (not perfect, but I don't notice the imperfections during play). I actually like the shiny metal look better.
IMG_6515 (resized).JPG
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from sparksterz:I believe some pages back people had talked about rubbing specific oils on it...but idk while it'd be fun for mine to go quicker that sounds like a sure fire way to cause a real mess of things.
I used silicon oil and it has performed perfectly for months now with zero residue/mess issues. It's not like you are squirting it on, rather, an extremely thin layer wiped on with a paper towel.
BTW, the only reason I chose what I did is because Amazon was out of this stuff:
Quoted from PinJim:thanks, admittedly I didn’t search all of the pages….
Also, look at the schematics on pages 2-38 & 2-40. You will see that the configuration you have is almost like what the manual shows. However, based on the rings schematic (2-43) it appears that post is a single ring post with its own ring while the other two posts share a ring (i.e. your setup is not as presented in the manual). Then again, I know there were several production runs of Getaway so things could have easily changed.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Hapidance:Sprudeldudel
I found them here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm
They print pretty much the correct size and color.
If you need the file(s) with the logo, copy the link and remove
the "_text" from the link to get the other file.
I've used some of these in the past, and they worked well. I just printed them on colored paper, but you could also color the background yourself and print in full color.
Quoted from Pinash:Got the unlimited multiball bug again. This is the second time in less than 50 plays! Looks like upgrading from L-2 is in my future.
There are specific circumstances that cause this. BTW, I had a run where I had it happen 3 or 4 times in a week, but since this it hasn't happened in months (maybe a year +). At this point nothing would take me away from L-2 outside of a new firmware version based on L-2 that repairs the bugs.
Quoted from Pinash:It's happened to me twice this week, which is frequent enough for me to order L-5 (patched) to try out. In the meantime, while I'm playing L-2, I'm going to reduce the amount of time Burn Rubber awards multiball (using either standard adj 26 or feature adj 13).
You just need to learn what the exact sequence is that causes it and you can then have awareness to avoid it . I’ve posted multiple times before, but I’ll go track it down again and link to it.
Okay, found it. Here is a detailed explanation of the L2 Endless Multi-ball bug | https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin#post-1407053
Also, here are the main differences between L2 and L5:
Run the Red Light display mode | L2 Y - L5 N
Secret mania bug with forgotten ball-locks | L2 Y - L5 N
Endless multiball (FREE RIDE BUG) | L2 Y - L5 N
Red light mania to normal multiball shift bug | L2 N - L5 Y
Multiple balls released from lock (multi player) | L2 N - L5 Y
Multi-state right flipper (must have proper switch installed) | L2 N - L5 Y
Quoted from Magadovski:Is this file avaible on thingiverse.com?
/Carl
Sorry, for purchase only (I don’t share most of my designs for a couple of reasons). PM me if you want to discuss pricing.
Since a few people have inquired, I sell the 3D printed Gear Shift Pivot part for $15 including US shipping. Please PM me if interested in purchasing.
Quoted from The_Pump_House:looking for a nice no fade getaway in the St. Louis +4 hour area
If you are looking for original graphics, then good luck. It is extremely rare to find a no fade Getaway as the red ink they used at the time just seemed to degrade by being exposed to the air. There are exceptions of course, but still very rare from what I've seen.
Quoted from Mancave:I know you probably think that i disagree with everything you post or say Mr T but i do believe that the colour red fades faster due to UV light not the air. Have a great Christmas and safe and happy new year
I was using a little hyperbole on that one (difficult to discern in a written post). I know UV degrades it, but there are so few originals out there without faded graphics it seems like there are other environmental causes. I just think overall the red ink used at the time was chemically flawed.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:Since we are in the subject of decal fade,was wondering how mine fairs
I guess this one got lucky?
I think it looks pretty freaking good I always thought the white faded ones were normal and that was the way it was supposed to be.
I agree somewhat with the thought that red sometimes fade from just the elements ,I have a documented HUO EATPM that is beautiful inside and out all original BUT for some reason one of the piping pieces on the head “faded “ over time
The piece is original and there is no reason for it to have turned a different color
I always thought that the “air” just faded it
I don’t give a crap but I always thought it was odd
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think your Getaway colors are quite strong. My reds were all pink except for the cabinet parts under the legs that weren't exposed.
Quoted from kyle5574:But if it was software, then everybody would have the same problem.
Ramp test can help diagnose:If the ramp physically fails to go up and down reliably, then the problem is either mechanical or something with the two ramp solenoids.
If the ramp reliably goes up and down physically, but the test sometimes fails to report the correct current position, then the ramp switch is faulty.
If the ramp test works reliably, but the ramp is flakey in-game, then you might have a switch matrix problem involving right orbit switches (if the game thinks the right orbit switch is closed, then the ramp will go up when it is supposed to be down).In my case, the ramp physically went up and down reliably, but the test sometimes reported it as being down when it was up (or the other way around—I forget). My ramp switch was broken.
For me the issue was a broken solder joint. Everything looked good visually and was making physical contact usually, but vibration would cause separation and intermittent failure. I reflowed all of he solder points on the switch (wires, diode, etc.) and has worked perfectly ever since.
I love my Getaway, after all it was my introduction into pinball as the first game I ever purchased. The game has so much going for it, and I've always loved the theme (what guy at some point doesn't fantasize about being chased by the police in his high-performance supercar?). However, one thing has been missing from the this pin . . . until now. Part of the visceral experience of being chased by the police are those rapidly blue and red flashing lights coming from behind you permeating your entire field of vision. Your heart is pounding, your mind is racing, and your senses are overwhelmed.
A couple of weeks ago EStroh recommended that I install a lightbar topper on my Getaway, as he's done it on both his High Speed and Getaway pins. After chatting about it with him, it sounded like a good idea so I decided to go for it. Up to this point he had wired his into the beacon light using a relay so that it fired whenever the beacon light was on. However, I had a "take it to the next level" idea.
For those not familiar with the PinSound Motion Control shaker, it is a must have in my opinion as a companion to the PinSound board itself. I remembered that the Motion Control board for the shaker also has an additional relay built in that can be controlled based upon sound events. You can close (turn on) the relay selectively by pairing it to any sound(s), set it up to 10 seconds, repeat it up to 10 times, and set a pause between repeats. Connecting the lightbar this way opens it up to all sorts of possibilities. I was able to program the lightbar to fire based on multiple events in the game (e.g. running the red light, redline mania, various police callouts, jackpots, end of the game, etc.)
Upon getting everything installed, programming and tweaking the relay events, and playing several games, I absolutely love it! It adds a whole new immersive experience when playing the game. Overall, the parts needed and installation are fairly straight forward and probably a 4-5 on a 10 point difficulty scale, so just about anyone can do this DIY in an hour or less. For those interested, here are the prerequisites, parts required, and installation instructions to install the way I did. If you don't have a PinSound board and Motion Control Shaker but still want to add a lightbar, then I'm sure EStroh would be happy to post instructions for wiring it to the beacon light if someone requested it.
PREREQUISITES
- One of the following PinSound Audio Boards: PinSound 1 (v1.3/1.4 - v1.2 is not compatible), PinSound Plus, PinSound Neo
- PinSound Motion Control Shaker with Control Board
- One of my PinSound Getaway orchestrations (or anyone's orchestration that follows my folder naming convention if you want to use my supplied pinsound.config file with shaker and relay events pre-programmed): https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway
- My modified pinsound.config file with relay programming (or you can do your own), just PM me with your email address if you would like me to send you a copy AT NO CHARGE.
PARTS REQUIRED (ABOUT $50 ASSUMING YOU ALREADY HAVE ALL OF THE PREREQUISITES)
- 27" TeddyTT Red and Blue Police Emergency LED Strobe Bar (or similar lightbar): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDD9GZH
- AC to DC Converter 12V Cigarette Ligher Socket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CTMJJTJ
- 2 x Woodscrews to secure lightbar to backbox (not included with lightbar)
- A short jumper wire (optional)
INSTALLATION | DO ALL OF THIS WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED FROM WALL SINCE THE SERVICE OUTLET IS HOT EVEN WITH THE PIN TURNED OFF
- Disconnect the white coupler that joins the wires from the power/control piece to the lightbar.
- Remove the screws and extra brackets that come pre-attached to the lightbar as you will not need them. You will have to remove one of the endcaps from the bar to slide all of the screws out of the channel, but this is simple and non-destructive as the cap is secured by a few small screws.
- Remove the two support brackets from each side of the light bar secured by the two silver screws on each side, and reverse the brackets so they are pointing outward. You can actually keep them inward, but when turned outward they are a perfect fit for aligning the lightbar to the backbox width and easier to screw down.
- Test position the lightbar in front of the beacon light and align such that it is parallel to the front of the back box, then secure to the backbox using one screw on each side (the light bar brackets should fit perfectly in the width of the backbox).
IMG_6870 (resized).JPG
- I chose to rotate the lightbar at an upward angle then lock in with the two bracket screws on each side. When initially pointing directly forward the lights were blinding to me, but the slight angle is perfect. As a FYI, I'm 6'3" so depending on your height you may prefer less or more angle.
IMG_6871 (resized).JPG
- Next, run the cable around the back and through one of the vent holes at the top of the backbox. You may have to loosen or remove one of the screws inside the backbox to give you enough flex in the grate to feed the wires through.
IMG_6869 (resized).JPG
- Now connect the controller to power and run that wire up through the back of the cabinet and into the backbox. To do this, plug the AC to DC converter into the service power, plug the lightbar cigarette controller into that, run the wire to the back of the pin and up into the backbox.
IMG_6872 (resized).JPG
- You'll see the controller has two switches on it. The one with the red light is the power, and the other is the toggle switch for changing modes. The good news is that whatever mode you select is always recalled even after power loss (I actually turn my pins off at the wall switch, so this is a major plus not having to reset modes every time). My personal favorite pattern is in the animation below, but you can set yours to whatever you like.
IMG_6873 (resized).JPG
- At this point you should have both ends of the cable in the backbox with the white plugs on the end. Now you want to remove the red lead from each connector using a small pin or screwdriver while leaving the black and yellow wires attached to the connectors. Once you remove the red wires, then go ahead and couple the connector with the black and yellow wires. Optionally, instead of removing the red wire pins from the connectors you can just cut and strip the wires. Once everything is hooked up, I suggest covering any exposed connections with electrical tape or heat shrink (not pictured).
IMG_6874 (resized).JPG
- Next, you will connect the red wires to the relay on the motion control board. The red wire coming from the power/controller goes into the IN A (far left) port and the red wire leading to the lightbar goes into the OUT A (far right) port. Since I left the pins in my wires, I used a short jumper wire to hookup the OUT A connection (you can directly connect the IN A without a jumper wire since the lead fits into the slot).
IMG_6875 (resized).JPG
FINISHING YOUR SETUP
- Plugin your pin and turn on your switch for the lightbar. The red light on the lightbar control should be illuminated, however, the lighbar will not turn on yet because the relay is open.
- Remove your PinSound USB drive and place it in your computer. Navigate to the orchestration folder containing the orchestration you wish to apply the lighbar programming to.
- Delete the pinsound.config file in that folder (assuming it is one of my orchestrations or another that uses my folder naming convention), then copy the pinsound.config file you get from me in its place.
- Replace the USB into your PinSound, power on your pin, and select the orchestration (if you have more than one installed) with the new relay actions applied.
HIT THE GAS, DON'T LOOK BEHIND YOU, AND PLAY SOME PINBALL!
Here's my lightbar topper connected to my PinSound Motion Control fully installed . . .
IMG_6876.JPG
Quoted from monkfe:So does the original beacon work as originally designed? I would think so as you havent disabled the controller to add the additional lights right?
I have a low ceiling in my basement and this could be an alternative...
Yes, original beacon is untouched and works as normal. The lightbar is in addition to anything the beacon does.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Not for me... however, I like the creative ideas some come up with.
For you, I'd recommend always on mode - ha! 
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Mr_Tantrum... I've purchased many of your very cool mods.
The light bar isn't for me as it blocks the beacon and I don't like bright flashing lights in my eyes. Other will love it tho
Hey Kerry, I apologize as I was just ribbing you and meant no offense. You're a great guy and active here in the forum, so thought I would harass you a little. Sorry, but my jocularity doesn't always come through in posts, as hard as I try.
On a serious note, I don't expect this mod (or any of the mods I sell or offer as a DIY) to be for everyone and take no offense if someone is apathetic towards it, doesn't like it, or even openly criticizes it.
Also, if someone likes the lightbar concept but not facing the player, it is possible to conceal mount the lightbar on the backside of the backbox at the top and either point upward towards the ceiling or towards the back wall. All of the flashing lights bouncing off the ceiling and walls would still deliver a cool effect. I can even see myself remounting mine at some point this way.
Quoted from transprtr4u:ok I'm a complete idiot .... on my 3rd Getaway ...
still cant get the extra ball in Video mode ?
need a High Speed 2 The Getaway Book for Dummies!
I'm assuming you are on L2 or L5 (L1 does not offer a free ball in video mode).
Also, I never see the free ball offer in video mode now that I always drive on the left side of the road - I don't know exactly what triggers it.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Video mode is really cool, especially getting rewarded extra ball... you probably all know you can increase the speed of your car by shifting into higher gears.
BTW: I was almost reluctant adding the 2nd half of my sentence However you never know who may not already know that.
I always immediately shift to 5th gear and run full throttle in video mode . . . the only way to drive!
Well, I finally decided to spring for a sheet of VOODOO glass for my Getaway. I bought two sheets about a year ago for my AFMr LE and JP Prem, and have loved it. The VOODOO is crystal clear compared to standard glass, but I was hesitant to spend the money for it on Getaway.
After playing several games recently, I decided it was time. Even though I have a newer sheet of standard glass on Getaway, the foggy haze appearance of it compared to VOODOO was glaring every time I played.
Since I only have one pin without VIODOO I found a local to go in with me on two sheets (cheaper that way). Glass should be here early next week, and I’ll post some photos when installed (although the camera doesn’t do it justice).
Lots of great pinball parts suppliers. Not to leave anyone out, but my go to shops are Marco’s, Pinball Life, Comet, and Titan.
Oh, and given my recent VOODOO purchase, nothing but positive things to say about Melissa at Cointaker.
I received my VOODOO pinball glass order from CoinTaker today via FedEx, and even though I know what's it's like because I have it on other pins I was still blown away after sliding it into the channels on my Getaway.
rs=w_600,h_600.jpg
These photos are not doing it justice as the VOODOO is crystal clear. When you look down at the lower playfield it literally looks like there isn't any glass installed and you can reach right down into the playfield. For those of you who have never seen VOODOO in person, it is an extremely clear glass that eliminates haze and greatly reduces reflections. It is significantly more expensive than regular glass, but you can get a deal if you buy two sheets at a time (I split an order with another local pinball owner). I also suggest you actually email Melissa at CoinTaker ([email protected]) for a quote with shipping costs instead of ordering directly from the website as she can give you the most up-to-date pricing which can fluctuate from time to time.
This photo is a full playfield shot (regular glass on the left, VOODOO glass on the right). While difficult to see because the camera doesn't pic it up as well as your eye does, the original glass is significantly more hazy/less clear than the VOODOO (the difference is much more exaggerated in person). I assume the lack of clarity is due to impurities in the glass along with the manufacturing process. As a result, the original glass also pics up more reflections since the light is bouncing off the impurities in it. Notice the horizontal reflective lines through the supercharger ramp sign on the original which are virtually non-existent in the VOODOO shot. In general, I would say that regular glass appears like it has a faint layer of dust on it verses the ultra clear VOODOO glass.
Getaway_1.jpg
In this closeup shot of the upper playfield, again the haze and glare on the original (at left) glass is quite noticeable when compared to the VOODOO (at right).
Getaway_2.jpg
For home use pins, I cannot recommend VOODOO glass enough. I waited too long to finally buy sheets for all three of my pins, but I'm now extremely satisfied with having VOODOO on them. To me the upgrade is definitely worth the cost, even if you have to save up for it. Also, if you don't want to keep your original glass, then I suggest you find a buyer for it to defer your VOODOO cost some. I don't plan on ever selling my pins, but I'm keeping a couple of stock glass sheets if I do and the buyer isn't willing to account for the VOODOO glass upgrade.
Quoted from Hans_Saris:Picked up a Getaway this weekend! Very happy with the game that plays very well!
Game came with several mods. I.e. next to the Beacon light two blue led flashers are mounted on the top of the backbox. Beacon light is working as it should, but those added Flashers do not. Looked at the wiring and it looked damaged and incomplete inside the backbox. Also believe Voltage converter (?) is broke (black on one side / looks burnt). How to best get required wiring / converter? What specific parts are needed? Would be great to have this mod working again!
Thanks for sharing any further guidance, Hans
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Congrats on the Getaway! Does it happen to have a PinSound in it?
Quoted from Hans_Saris:No, there is no Pinsound installed (yet).
I ask because if you had a PinSound and the PinSound Shaker then you could wire those into the motion control board relay and trigger them with various sound events (what I recently did with my lightbar): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/236#post-6685017
As a reminder, I'm happy to share my custom config.pinsound file where I've programmed the relay to a variety of sound events. Just PM me and ask.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:Anyone know where I can get the art blades with the clouds on them ?
Tilt Graphics makes some: https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/getaway-high-speed-ii-gameblades
Quoted from Premier:Anybody selling pinsound?
PunSound themselves, but if you mean used they are usually hard to come by.
Quoted from SilverBallKid:Just joined the club. So happy! Pics to follow.
This table is in seriously insane condition. I am a very lucky man.
SO EXCITED!!!
Congrats, and welcome to the club!
Quoted from red-line:I love the mountain decals for the back right where the ramp is. I think tantrum made them. They are understated but really complete the look of the game.
Thanks for the plug. I sell them for $12 for the pair (PM me if interested).
pasted_image (resized).png
I actually have the decals and my mountain installed (I never bothered to removed the decals but they are pretty much hidden now). I also relocated the upward shining spotlight that lit up the mountain plastic to the left where it shines on my mountain (I sell the spotlight kit as an option to those who purchase the mountain).
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:I’m too old for this shit anymore but I got it shopped on top
Still have to add the rest of the coil sleeves and a vacuum but I like the way it’s coming along
I don’t usually brag post but I’m pretty happy I didn’t fuck anything up while knocking it out
Wife loves it
She doesn’t know it or care but her favorite games are always Ritchie games
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looking great!
Quoted from Premier:Tilt graphics just got them
[quoted image]
Did someone get mad after a bad game of Getaway and take it out on the window shades?
Also, blades look nice. Be sure to post pics when installed.
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:Wife loves it. She doesn’t know it or care but her favorite games are always Ritchie games.
Funny, she kind of has that "You'd better not post that photo on the internet!" look on her face.
Quoted from Premier:Just installed what do you think?
[quoted image]
Needs the white bulbs I forgot to send the first time 
Quoted from Seth1977:well I finally did the swap. I was the guy who purchased the playfield that was listed in the marketplace a few months back. so far 16 hours into it. I decided while populating the top to add new stuff. looking for some plastics etc. her are the pics so far
[quoted image]
You are da man! I would really like to undertake such a project, but just haven't gotten up enough gumption yet.
Quoted from nvu4prod:Thanks frunch,
That's what i suspected. Appreciate the photo for confirmation!
Looks like something took a bite out of it.
Quoted from nvu4prod:Mr_Tantrum,
Thanks for forwarding the ball gate part at Marco. Suspecting the ball gate had a issue, I ordered one. Just got to make time for the replacement!
[quoted image]
Both for you and posterity.
Quoted from PinJim:I think it's this, although mine is silver?
https://flippers.com/catalog_oc/williams-c-5_36/add-a-bracket-p-4615.html
That's it, but why does it look like it's made out of copper? That color bracket would stand out like a sore thumb.
Quoted from dmieczko:It's been a long wait, but I'm finally in this club.
Welcome, we've been waiting for you!
Quoted from Premier:Installed today thanks to Mr tantrum
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good. You might want to consider swapping your sign bulbs - yellow for SC ready and red for redline mania
Quoted from MJW:Is that red supercharger letter yours or Mr Tantrum?
I have not seen that before.
It was on Thingiverse (forgot who designed it), and I printed it for him.
Quoted from sparksterz:One of the other files in this mountain mod:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4539022
Beat me to it - that's the one.
Quoted from Premier:A few things I add this weekend, the side blades are really nice !
Opinions...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Personally, I highly recommend replacing the color GI bulbs with cool white. The colored bulbs hide the colors of the artwork, make it harder to see the ball, and distort the overall look of the playfield and side blades. It comes down to personal preference, but I think you would like the overall look and feel of the game better.
Quoted from Kobaja:The Stern OEM clear donm warm white work best for me. Very natural light. Colored go is definitely not a good choice. Currently doing a monster bash and it's the same there. The art was made for white bulbs and that is how it looks closest to the designers intention.
The choice is definitely between warm & cool white, and for me it depends on the game. I prefer cool in Getaway as it just makes all of the colors pop but I also can appreciate someone preferring warm white for a more incandescent softer look. On the other hand, many might say that I go a little overboard on my lighting.
Quoted from PinJim:Edit: grammar
Hmmmm.....I meant to update my previous post. Is there no way to delete a post once it's made? I know, off topic...
No, but from experience you can edit it to something completely different to hide your mistake. 
You already lose site of the ball in the back right corner because of it passing under the ramp loop (bunch of sheet metal back there) as well as other parts of the loop, so the mountain does not obstruct that. Basically you are missing about 2" of site as the ball enters the tunnel and is captured by the saucer. Then when ejected (at least in my design) you pickup the ball exiting right just as if the mountain wasn't there (this view is already partially blocked by the traffic light).
With such little visual impact on the ball (just the last couple of inches at most entering the tunnel to be captured by the saucer) the mountain does not detract at all from visually tracking the ball's path in my experience.
Quoted from transprtr4u:100% ... mine always functions as should
Maybe not 100% for me, but at least 99%. On a rare occasion when the ball is moving really fast the timing gets off a little and the diverter closes a fraction of second too soon causing the ball to hit it in mid position and fall back to the center of the playfield.
Magnets cannot be removed w/o a substantial disassembly of the SC. If you think you have a bad one (highly unlikely), just swap connections from a "good" one to the "bad" one and see if the magnet then works. If it does, you have a wiring/board issue (although I would take the wire from the "bad" magnet and connect it to a good one to see if the issue remains).
I've had my game for about 6 years now and have played it hard, yet have never broken a plastic. Like others mentioned, I'm thinking you have your screws too tight on them.
BTW, sometimes you can find individual replacements on eBay. There is also a looking for plastics / plastics for trade thread(s) on Pinside if you search for them.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:ok, first off, when you turn the power off, it cuts power to all the game circuits, so having it plugged in, unplugged, surge protector or not, is irrelevant.
The batteries are there to hold the RAM settings, and the strangest part of your description is, that you get a settings default message, but the settings actually didn't default?? That being the case, it really seems that your RAM chip has errors. The fact that you moved the game across the floor a bit has to be coincidence, that contributing to problem defies all logic and nature in general. You can try to do a full RAM-clear first, or just replace the RAM. If you replace the RAM, use NVRAM, then the batteries can be eliminated from the equation too.
Well look who popped hi
Quoted from Paseb:What are the dimples?
i don’t understand
All those little dots where holes are to be drilled and/or fasteners (i.e. screws) are to be positioned.
I have a serious itch to purchase a new Getaway playfield from Peter at B&T Automaten in Germany. I was wondering if anyone here has already bought/ordered one, and if so what are your thoughts of the playfield in general (quality, durability, clear coat, coloring, accuracy, etc.)? How did your installation go, any surprises?
Quoted from TheCapn:The one you played at TPF was one of those B&T playfields.
And it was beautiful. Congratulations, BTW. I was told you won an award (I wasn't there Sunday).
Quoted from TheCapn:Just wanted to give a shoutout to Mr_Tantrum for his mods and PinSound Mix (with shaker) on my Getaway that no doubt contributed to my "Best of Show" award at Texas Pinball Festival.
I have to say that I've always been very pleased with my Getaway and thought I had one of the top quality ones out there. Then I saw the Getaway that TheCapn brought to TPF. It was beautiful in every way, inside and out (I especially liked the red color he chose for the armor). Knowing that I will probably keep my Getaway forever given it was my first pin, and seeing what it could look like with a new playfield in it, the new playfield itch became serious.
Just gathering some info via the Getaway group and a couple of professionals I know to make my final decision. I know that I won't regret it, just trying to be confident in my purchase and ability to get the job done.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Have you ever done a PF swap?? Getaway is the the LAST one that should be your first! Just fair warning...
No, I have not, but I'm fully aware of the challenge and will not be going into this project lightly if I decide to move forward. However, I have access to a couple of highly experienced local professional pinball restorers and am consulting with them. I have great relationships with them (I make custom pieces they need for some of their restorations), and they are willing to advise and support me as needed. I'm also doing my best to prepare ahead of time as it relates to the parts required, processes, tools, etc.
Well, I just pulled the trigger on the playfield. Since the clearcoat is fully cured, I'm having them do a final sanding and clear coat which should make the surface as perfect as it can be. Will take an extra month or so before I get it, but I'm not in any hurry as this will give me plenty of preparation time.
Thanks for everyone's input.
For those of you who have done a playfield swap, did you protect any areas of the new playfield with Mylar and/or Cliffy protectors? When I bought my Getaway it was already 25+ years old and had obviously taken some abuse over that time. Not sure that home use only Getaway from now until I depart will see nearly the action it did before. I don't want to put "protection" on the gorgeous new playfield if it is not needed, but if some areas warrant doing so then I would want to address those.
Quoted from Kobaja:Playfield PRotector and cliffys. Nobrainer.
Cliffy's for sure (I have them on all my other games and just looked them up - mainly shooter eject and the kickback protector). However, not really a fan of the playfield protectors. Don't mean to start any arguments as they have their pros and cons, I just prefer to not use them.
My OEM playfield also has Mylar in the pop area. I don't really like it as it is rather dull compared to the rest of the playfield. Did anyone treat this area on their new playfield?
Quoted from Premier:Can someone help me to find this pcb?[quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like an easy enough board to repair, what is wrong with it?
Quoted from Premier:Led melting I think there is short with one of the diods
Hard to tell from the blurry photo, but looks like there are only a few components on the board, right? I would just replace all of those and call it a day assuming all of the traces are good. By no means am I an electrician, but I've done similar repairs successfully using my $20 soldering iron.
Quoted from smailskid:whats everyones opinion on the best Getaway Pinsound track. Lots of them out there....
Why settle for just 1? Load a few (or all 14 of mine - hah! Seriously, others have done great mixes too) on your PinSound USB and toggle between them.
https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway
Personally, I like a lot of them and change them fairly frequently when playing. However, I do find myself coming back mostly to my original ZZ Top version with custom callouts: GetawayHS2_ZZTopVocals_CustomCallouts_MrTantrum. After that, I play a lot of games with my Nirvana orchestration and ESTroh's updated version of my John Wick orchestration with a now and then techno orchestration more than the all the others.
BTW, best quote from Caddyshack - "You'll get nothing, and like it!"
Quoted from Hapidance:Has anyone installed the lighted speaker pannel?
I’m just wondering what peoples experience has been.
Here is my experience (still loving it): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/147#post-4198015
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Paseb:Thx
Some more cool stuff from my restorer ElectricLou
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]
He put sprinkles on my donut - love it!
Quoted from CoasterG:Picking up a Getaway in the next few days. Needs a few things I could use some advice on:
1. Needs new lights since many are burnt out or replaced with bad LEDs - any recommendations?
2. Haven't cleaned a playfield in awhile - this one is in very good shape, is using Novus still the standard?
3. The display has elements out along the right side, several vertical lines then a vertical block on the extreme right side - so could be a bad display, dirty connectors, or something else - any suggestions on troubleshooting it?
Sure there will be more once I receive it - hopefully today!
Search this thread for my LED guide. May need a few updates, but it will definitely get you on the right path. FYI, I support Comet 100% when it comes to pin LEDs.
Well, look what just arrived at my front door straight from Deutschland (that's Germany for my fellow Americans). Huge thanks and applause go to Peter at B&T Automaten for the quality he's delivered!
IMG_7529b (resized).jpg
Packing was superb and only issue with box was a very minor dent in one corner, but corners were well protected and plenty of cushion between the playfield and the box.
IMG_7530 (resized).JPG
Starting to get excited with just the protective paper left to remove.
IMG_7531 (resized).JPG
Just one word - WOW!
IMG_7532 (resized).JPG
Then, WOW! again.
IMG_7533 (resized).JPG
I cannot believe the finish on this - every square inch is as smooth as glass.
IMG_7538 (resized).JPG
Also, I can't believe just how much the oranges pop! Camera just doesn't do it justice.
IMG_7540 (resized).JPG
IMG_7541 (resized).JPG
IMG_7539 (resized).JPG
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
Making me jelly..
Your In For a ton o fun!
Looking forward to your in depth playfield swap documenting every single screw.
I’ll prob need it for when I loose my mind and go for it myself.
I'm already gathering data and learning the experience from those who have gone before me. I still have a ton of prep work and parts to order before I even undertake this. Will be several weeks (if not longer) before I hop to it.
Quoted from Pinash:Getaway is a fun game, but I wish there was a little more to do in it. If someone came up with a Getaway 2.0 kit, I would definitely be in.
v2.0 is called a PinSound with Motion Control shaker.
Quoted from Hapidance:I just discovered I can shoot the ball by using the flippers.
How did I not know this?
I turn this feature off. I have more fun revving the engine and feeling the progressive shaker going up & down before launching a ball (see previous post regarding Getaway v2.0).
Quoted from CoasterG:Ok so I need to replace my DMD since it has vertical bands out on the right side.
Been looking to see what the difference is between LCD and LED Color DMD is. Hard to tell in videos since many are just labeled Color DMD.. Plus only LED is in stock currently
So any photos, video links, etc would be appreciated.
Here is a video of my Getaway with Lit Kit Flippers that features the LED version of ColorDMD:
Quoted from tiltmonster:the biggest issue I had was the led was so bright I was getting dizzy.
You know you can adjust the LED brightness, right?
LED is definitely my choice on Getaway. As you can see, owners are split so you pretty much have to decide which you prefer and just go for it.
Quoted from Malenko:I just flat out like the LEDs better. People who have the LCD tend to use the SAI/EAGLE scaling mode and it looks so baddddddddd. Again, not a dig at ColorDMD, it looks terrible in everything including MAME.
I strongly dislike that mode also. Looks like a Kindergartener did the colorization with melted crayons.
Quoted from tiltmonster:of course, even the least bright was too bright
Just making sure as I run mine at about 75% brightness (believe me, I've done dumber things than not realizing a DMD has brightness controls).
Oh, I just now remembered as I was replying to your post that I also have an anti-glare layer installed on the inside of the DMD window which also diminishes the brightness of the DMD. Now that I think about it, this is probably why I don't think the LED version is too bright.
For those interested, here is the Comet DMD Glare Eliminator I use: https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/glare-eliminators
It installs on the inside of the speaker panel, prevents glare from the DMD reflecting on the playfield glass, and as stated above mutes the brightness of the DMD. Another side benefit is that it masks the LEDs that are turned off at any given time resulting in deeper looking blacks.
Quoted from hawknole:The glare eliminators are good. Installed one in my IJ with a ColorDMD LED, running without the glare guard in some others.
And so it begins, the Getaway tear down. Backbox will be popped off soon.
[quoted image]
I've never seen a Tilt Audio board before. In watching a video on their website I see/hear you can have my custom PinSound orchestration running on it. I guess it like PIN2DMD is to ColorDMD?
Quoted from hawknole:Yes, it is like a PinSound and the relation you call to PIN2DMD/ColorDMD is a good comparison. I was doing some testing with it. Quite honestly, I would suggest just using a PinSound. I have many hours with both boards actually and I could provide much detail if you are interested just PM me and we can discuss off line.
Not really interested in a deep dive, as I'm a PinSound apologist. Just wanted to learn a little about it.
Quoted from ruzeo:Pinballs under the paddock was a lot of fun and got lots of people to stop by and play. It was a Porsche oriented FCP Euro event at Lime Rock Park so checkpoint was the most played but I know getaway made a few new pinball fans today.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very cool idea, and the pins look great!
Quoted from monkfe:so I ran into an issue with my right flipper lane switch hitting the bell on the shooter lane kicker...new switch. I removed one fiber segment to get it closer to the wall of the cabinet, but as you can see if the flipper switch is activated while the ball is shooting (multiball lets say), it going to make contact...I have the frame of the kicker as close to the playfield as it can go. What have others done here...didn't have this problem prior to the restoration....[quoted image]
Doesn't seem to make sense. Can you most a more zoomed out photo? Is the armature aligned with the center of the shooter lane switch slot?
For the Getaway newbies, the topic of the ball trap brackets has been covered several times in this thread. If you don't have them, you can purchase from Marco's:
- Back left ball trap bracket | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10903
- Back right ball trap bracket | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10904
I also sell decals for both of these brackets along with a variety of other mods for Getaway (some are listed in Pinside ads, but you can PM me for a full list).
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from JakeFAttie:I was thinking of maybe just a super cool Lambroghini Countach...
Well, you could do a Countach but the car emulated in the game is a Diablo. A good clue to the car model is in the game's promo video where Steve Ritchie is driving is a Diablo (although he has never officially recognized any specific model for the car - I'm guessing a licensing issue). Besides that, from the front view the lighting arrangement and air intakes are clearly not Countach and better resemble the Diablo.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I would go with this...
504 doesn't stand a chance . . .
1976 AMC Pacer X
- 90HP
- 170 lb-ft torque
- Top Speed 101mph (theoretical)
- 1/4 mile drag 20.2sec
- 0-60 14.6sec
Quoted from JakeFAttie:so my accelerator is lackadaisical. Usually it works, but it's just not as fast as it should be. Sometimes it doesn't quite work (ball goes around slowly for awhile but the "millions" doesn't go up until it picks up enough speed). Are there any easy fixes for this I should try? Is this multimeter time? (I haven't tried anything yet). Any threads/posts/web sites I should check out? Thanks, dudes!
Yes, perform the magnets test, clean the optos and test those, then report back.
Also, when you do the SC test what is the score/time?
Opto 2 is the center magnet. When in the sc test mode, how reliably does this work when you trip it manually (just move something solid back and forth (finger, folded business card, whatever you can fit in the space) between the optos?
Also, make sure the wires on the transmitter and receiver aren't coming loose/have bad contact.
Quoted from gregariousone:While adding Pinsound and a Pinduino motion light to my Getaway, we noticed the Right side Playfield Slide Assembly is cracked and flexing.
Part # A-15421-2
Anyone here happen to have a spare or a source for replacements? I looked at a few places and came up empty so I figured I’d ask you all.
Thanks,
Greg
[quoted image]
I just bought a set for my upcoming playfield swap:
Left: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17749.1-1
Right: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17749.1-2
Quoted from golfergordy:The pic of Marco's opto switch doesn't look like the actual part in our Getaway pb. Marco's part # doesn't match what's in the operations manual either. I'm hoping that someone else on this forum with more experience (and knowledge) with opto switches can tell us where to get one.
Opto switches go bad over time as they darken with age and environment (at least the ones used back in the early 90's), so the light is either not transmitted or received well enough.
I've replaced all opto pairs on my Getaway and have not had a single opto issue since. The easiest way is to purchase the pairs already mounted on the circuit boards then it is simple unsoldering wires from the old optos and soldering to the two pads on the new ones.
FYI, I used the set from Pinball Life: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-led-and-pcb-board-set.html
Off the top of my head, I believe Getaway uses 5 pairs of opto switches (1 per each of the three supercharger magnets, 1 at the SC ramp entrance, and 1 at the right side of the SC loop). Do yourself a favor and spend the $40 to replace all of them even if only one seems to be the issue.
------------------------------
Regarding SC loop times. I went through the process of testing my Opto Driver board, resoldering parts on it, and even purchasing a brand new certified board. None of this made a difference. I also polished my loop, removed the magnets and cleaned as best as I could only to realize minimal gains. What finally significantly improved my SC loop speed was a very light coating of silicon oil along the bottom and inside walls of the loop. Numerous people warned me not to use oil for this and that it would gum over time and/or make for dirty pinballs and playfield. In short, they were wrong. The silicon oil has proved to last for months and has not transfered to the balls or playfield parts.
Here is my post about it: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/233#post-6575990
My housings were all okay, so I did not replace them. If yours are cracked or stripped then you should replace them.
Initially, I cleaned all of my optos thoroughly but still had intermittent issues.
Like I said, spend the $40, replace them all, and most likely you'll never have to deal with failing opto issues again. I've helped others replace optos to fix issues in their early 90's era pins. LEDs dim over time, the plastic ages, and other degradation occurs that impacts performance. If these 30 year old components didn't go bad then all of the pinball parts suppliers wouldn't be stocking and selling them.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:$40??? I use these... $5.48
amazon.com link »
Great link.
My estimated math was basically $7 price from PBL for a pair of optos mounted on PCBs x 5 units + a little for shipping. However, if you want to reuse your current PCBs then your $6 solution is great. Comes down to cost vs. convenience. I admit that it's not too much effort to dessolder the existing LEDs, clean the holes, solder the new ones it, clip the wires, etc. but it is a little more intricate work than just melting a couple of wires off solder pads and melting them onto the new ones. Probably just depends on how comfortable someone is with a soldering iron.
Regardless, those needing to replace their optos have a couple of options ranging from cheap to extremely cheap, and really no excuse not to do them all if they are having issues.
Quoted from golfergordy:So all you have to do is remove the existing LED's from the boards and solder in the new ones - is that correct? And, these are the correct LED's to accomplish that ???
Yes, they are through hole components. Remove the old (I assume you need to pay attention to polarity, but others may confirm), clean out the hole with solder sucker, solder new components on board and clip wires on underside.
Okay, without going back and reading I have a few questions.
- Are you actually having any performance issues with the SC loop?
- If not, the optos are working as designed. If the optos were not working the magnets would not fire and your SC loop times would be pitiful (the ball may not even make the trip around at times). If this is the case and the optos are not registering in test mode, that is simply because of the high speed of the ball. They are working, just not reporting to the DMD.
- If you test the magnets one at a time and each fires consistently but the opto is not registering on the screen, then guess what? The opto is working. Without the opto being tripped the magnet would not fire.
As a FYI, my best average timings are in the 90's after cleaning/lubricating the SC. Before that, my averages were in the 120's. I know there are a handful of guys here that somehow get exceptional timings below the 90's, but I'd be curious what the average was for everyone.
Quoted from ElectricLou:The ball can easily make the loop. SuperCharger average speed at 115-120.
I know that all 3 solenoids are working and measuring good (3ohms). Also working individually in test mode.
The game has a new accelarator board mentionning it's suppose to speed at 93.
I don't have any frictions with the diverter's rivets or any plastic
I waxed the Supercharger.
I changed all 3 receivers and transmitters
I reflowed every connector on the opto board
I got new non-magnetised balls
I tested continuity everwhere.
So how one SC can go to 120 and another around 80?
Does it start around 120 then accelerate to 80 (lower is faster in this case)?
What occurs when you use the SC test and only do one magnet at a time? Does each single magnet fire consistently? Again, if they do then the optos are performing as designed.
Other factors that can affect SC timings:
- Pitch of game
- Any loose parts on the SC (e.g. if is SC not fully stiff/secure then some speed will be lost)
- Any non-smooth parts/edges poking out, etc.
Quoted from ElectricLou:it starts at 130-140 and ends around 120.
Each magnet is working individually in test mode but only 1 magnet is not enough to run the loop "non-stop".
I have to enable minimum 2.
Is only 1 magnet is suppose to make the loop?
One magnet is usually not enough to make the loop or it barely does for me.
However, any combination of two magnets should be enough.
Quoted from ElectricLou:it starts at 130-140 and ends around 120.
Each magnet is working individually in test mode but only 1 magnet is not enough to run the loop "non-stop".
I have to enable minimum 2.
Is only 1 magnet is suppose to make the loop?
120 as a peak timing is slow. This is where I was too after doing everything I could (new optos, resoldered everything, new opto driver board, resecuring everything, cleaning and waxing the SC loop, etc. The one thing that finally dramatically improved my timings was as I previously mentioned: a very light coat of silicon oil around the inside surfaces of the SC loop where the ball makes contact (floor and walls). Thus far the initial coating has lasted for months, and I still have respectable/visibly noticeably improved timings after a multitude of games.
Quoted from Hapidance:Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some help.
Installed a pin sound recently.
I’m having issues;the music stops playing shortly after the ball is in play and all I hear for the most part are all the effects . Once the ball drains, the music starts. I’m thinking I have an issue with a switch. Something is “stuck” ?
Maybe a flipper or EOS switch? The “Turbo charger sound “ gets actuated often.
This might be related… if the ball drains while free ride is blinking, the shooter doesn’t fire the ball. The machine waites and then starts firing coils to find the ball until it finally shoots.
Another issue I’m having is with my DMD. When I first turn it on it looks like garbage. After an hour or so it looks fine.
Power issue at the DMD. Anyone know what the voltages should be?
Yes I have several issues wondering if they are all related. One correction to fix them all.
I’m planning on having kids over this weekend was hoping to play with the new sound.
Anyone have an idea where to start?
PinSound:
1 - Updated to the most recent firmware available on PinSound's website. Don't assume your brand new PinSound has the most recent firmware.
2 - Check your 5V supply on PinSound. There is a 5V header on the board you can put a meter on. Also, there is a txt file on the PinSound USB that measures 5V each time you put the game. Open that file on your computer and see what is in it (the file will also list your firmware version).
3 - Double check all cables are fully seated on the PinSound board, in the correct orientations, and fully seated at the other end of the cable wherever it goes to.
Also, the PinSound board would have nothing to do with the odd "lost ball" behavior you are experiencing.
Quoted from bailorgana:Hi Everyone
Is there a recommended mods list yet ... and where to obtain?
Looking for:
1) blades
2) donut heaven
3) mountain
4) shifter upgrade
5) key start
PM me for a full list of the mods I offer, but here are some answers to your specific list:
1) blades
graphic - https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/getaway-high-speed-ii-gameblades
mirror - https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/bally-williams-mirror-blades
2) donut heaven - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85485
3) mountain - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/198#post-5226898
4) shifter upgrade - depends on what you are wanting/looking for
5) key start - https://mezelmods.com/collections/the-getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-mods/products/getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-led-key-mod?variant=888126001
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:2 & 3 are the same: donut heaven mod
Corrected. Also, the images of the first mountain were darker. The final version of the mountain is more of a milk chocolate brown seen here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/199#post-5253823
Quoted from nocreditdot:Agreed! I just installed most of his mods and they look great!
I do have one suggestion for a mod for you mod guys. Mr. Tantrum are you listening?? The insert for super jackpot is kind of obscured near the shooter lane. How about a little super jackpot sign to mount from the super charger somewhere more visible?? This would make the super jackpot more dramatic! It was also key the player as to when its lit.
THanks
Mike
I'll think about that when I have some time to tinker.
Quoted from golfergordy:Mr_Tantrum,
I'm loving your mountain & donut heaven mods more & more every time I see them, and will probably be a buyer before long. When viewing the mountain mod today I noticed the blue jet bumper covers with the BriteCaps EVO Pop Bumper Lighting next to the mountain. I believe the lighting came from PBL but your caps don't look like the PBL caps, and I'm wondering where you got them. They have a faceted surface which much better disperses the blue light.
Everything is from PBL:
- BriteCaps EVO Pop Bumpter Lighting (blue) w/o cap | https://www.pinballlife.com/britecaps-evo-pop-bumper-lighting.html
- Data East/Sega/Stern Pop Bumper Caps (blue) | https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-pop-bumper-caps.html
You know if you would have just bought the assemblies you would have had the word done days ago and been playing all this time, right?
Quoted from golfergordy:Mr_T, you're right, and that's what I did.
I bought 5 sets of opto assemblies (transmitter & receiver diodes in each set mounted to boards) from Pinball Resource ($5/set x 5 = $25). Now, after replacing the existing optos with the new, I've got 5 spare sets of good opto boards with old, tired diodes. For $3 (on eBay) I bought 10 sets of diodes (2/set x 10 = 20 diodes) and want to install the new diodes onto the old boards so I'll have some good spare optos (plus 5 sets of diodes left over). I bought 10 sets rather than 5 because it was cheaper from the 10-set vendor than buying from the 5-set vendor (go figure?). I've been playing the game every day - replacing diodes on the old opto boards is just a side project for me with no time deadline.
I think I'll have to figure out how to test the diodes with my multimeter (I think I saw an explanation of how to do this online somewhere a year or so ago), which should allow me to identify the + and - legs. I'll do this with the old and new diodes and then install the new ones with the same orientation as the old ones were installed. Also, I read the thread referenced by DumbAss on this subject and I'll be reading it again when I actually start installing the new diodes.
I posted my original question on the forum because I thought there might be a simple answer, but apparently there isn't.
Thanks to everyone who tried to help out.
Gotcha. Honestly, I was getting a little lost in the conversation with all the back and forth. Good stuff, regardless.
Quoted from BoilerUp:We’re joining the Getaway club. Picked one up a few weeks ago that had been in a family’s basement for 15-20 years. Playfield is looking great after cleaning/waxing and cabinet is in pretty good shape too. I had to fix the supercharger so it would stop melting transistors off the board and cleaned the goo out of the diverter so it would move faster than a snail and now we have speed tests in the 80s. I’m replacing coils and sleeves as time permits. Little by little she’s coming along and looking beautiful.
While I’m at it I want to touch up the black on the cabinet. What black is a good match for touch ups? Satin? Semi gloss? Brand? I’ve searched through the forums but am not finding the answer.
I have the perfect paint, but not at home right now to see exactly what it is (I think a black gloss in a can that is brush applied). I thought I've posted it in this thread before, but can't seem to find it. Unfortunately, I won't be home for a couple of days, but if I remember I'll post when I can. I do remember I bought it at Lowe's or Home Depot in a quart can.
UPDATE:
Just searched through all of my PMs and found it - bought it at Lowes.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from BoilerUp:Perfect! Thank you for digging it up.
Also, Donut Heaven is in and looks so good. I think it’s my boys’ favorite thing in the game. Thank you![quoted image]
I see some of my decals too. Enjoy the new pin!
Quoted from Walamab:Posting here to see if anyone can help.
I am looking to buy the bracket that holds the stop light assembly for my scratch build.
If anyone has an extra or one they are willing to sell please contact me.
I would settle for measurements that I could use to fabricate one if there is no other option.
Thanks in advance for looking!
[quoted image]
I don't like the design of that bracket for a couple of reasons, which is why I designed my own for the 3D traffic light I offer. I would say you could easily design a better one that utilizes two mounting points instead of one (post in front and behind light) which doesn't require the metal overhands nor moves side to side when installed.
Since I designed these to work with my custom light, I have no idea if they would work with the OEM light or not. However, the same concept could potentially be utilized. You can see that my final design sits entirely on top of the plastic and utilizes two mounting points. Also, I built in a taper to angle the front of the light upward a little on both bracket designs.
Here was my initial design emulating the metal one
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from Walamab:Thank you for responding. Do you sell these?
Sure. I’d be willing to take the time to test and modify with the original stoplight if you are interested.
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:Heyyyy ! I'm planning on redoing HS2 to make it sound like a cammed V8 / badass / epic. What yall think?
Below is an example of my work I just did to The Shadow.
Have at it, but the Lamborghini Diablo (what most agree the Getaway car was based on) was an Italian V12. This is what I based the car sounds on (even replicated the horn sound) for all of my orchestrations (and others have used also): https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway
Even so, nothing stopping you from doing your own interpretation - always excited to hear new orchestrations for games.
Quoted from Kobaja:Realism aside - I agree that the engine in your orchestration sounds more like a motorcycle than a car. A slightly lower pitch might feel better despite being less accurate.
Regardless of how they may sound to some, the SFX I used are all actual recordings of Diablo engines.
Quoted from kyle5574:I mean, who's to say what a Lamborghini V12 sounds like when it's got a big ol' blower peeking out over the top of the roofline?
[quoted image]
Now that I would love to see in real life!
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Man makes a good point, bugs the shit outta me to this day, being a serious Italian exotic car enthusiast and owner myself, that blower and air scoop is an abomination!! I completely blacked out the one in my game so its less noticeable and not so identifiable as an intake scoop.
I went so far to even do a custom backglass for my Getaway where I removed it.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from golfergordy:On the other hand, there are guys like me who emphasize the air scoop by placing a cool white bulb behind it, giving it a blue tint to make it more noticeable. It's sometimes an item of conversation for non-Lambo aficionados who ask what the blue thing is. I bet Mr_Tantrum & TheOnlyest wouldn't like Steve Ritchie's signature on the Lambo's hood either.
[quoted image]
You are right. I would not be happy with anyone who defaced the hood of my supercar, even if it was Ferruccio himself.
Glad for you, however. I'm all for making games the way you like them and adding whatever flare you like, as long as you ask yourself if the bare minimum is enough. You do want to express yourself, don't you?
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from golfergordy:If there was a Lambo with Ferruccio's signature on it, collectors would fight each other over it. I met Steve Ritchie at last year's pb Expo, and showed him the signature, and he verified that it was his, which makes my Getaway game very special to me, and it's even more special now that a few of your mods are on it too. One of my wife's friends, who loves playing The Getaway game, was over again last week to play it, and immediate recognized that your Donut Heaven mod had been installed - she studied it in detail and was very impressed with how cool it is. She never, however, mentioned a word about Ritchie's signature or the air scoop.
Getaway is great in a lot of different ways. I'm probably partial because it was my first pin, but everyone seems to put their own twist on it and there is so much that can be done with such a great theme, IMO.
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Post pics when you get that installed! Please.
I may want I get some of that awesomeness!
You can see many of my mods in the attached photos.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from TheOnlyest:Where does the crest badge thingy go? Start button?
Here is photo from early version provided by a user (not my 3D print).
Quoted from golfergordy:How do you keep from scarring up the side wall art blades? I installed art blades in my GZ game and have raised & lowered the pf several times w/o any problem, but The Getaway has only about 1/2 the clearance (as GZ) between the side edge of the pf and the side cabinet walls. My side cab. walls already have many scars from previous owners - a project on my to do list is to refinish the side walls, but I'm afraid to install art blades.
I don't. As many times as I've had the playfield up and down I've scratched them to pieces, although I did apply adhesive felt to the edges of the playfield to minimize this. Lucky for me they were homemade and didn't cost very much. Once I undertake and finish my playfield swap, I plan on installing new ones.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Quick question: When you have long ball time (around 1 minute in), is the ZZ Top background music supposed to stop? I’m wondering if I have a sound problem.
No, it will repeat, and if all recall all my my tracks are closer to 2 or 3 minutes.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I mean the standard music the machine comes with, not Pinsound. I’m assuming it’s supposed to loop too.
I believe it should. I don't recall the music ever running out.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I’ll be removing the shifter knob and adding a sporty one. After reading the forum it seems like it’s pretty tough to remove the knob. Does anybody have a suggestion before I take a Sawzall to it?
Just know the only way to get the original handle off is to destroy it, so be committed before undertaking the project.
Quoted from Mancave:No need to destroy the original, just keep it as a spare. Just make a new blank rod with a threaded end (most screw on knobs etc are 3/8th) then add whatever you want as a handle/knob/whatever..
[quoted image]
Well, in all fairness we are both correct.
Option 1: Use current rod by removing/destroying current handle
Option 2: Replace current rod with manufactured part
Quoted from Mancave:It's not about being correct TBH. Why destroy the original when you don't need to?? Getting a rod machined up to the same specs with a thread one end is simple and relatively cheap. Price may depend on who you ask to do the job but it's not a difficult task by no means. It's just a bit of lathe work and pretty much any machine/engineering shop would do it for not a huge charge. It's like about an hours work tops!! And the best bit ..... you still have the original rod to change back to if you wish OR want to sell the machine and the new potential owner wants it original as much as possible.
Personally, I don't know why you would ever turn back. If you sell the pin then just leave it up to the buyer if they want the original.
Quoted from Mancave:Do you know what the thread size is? I can most likely get my bro to machine a rod up for you if you want to go that way, i hate to think you'll destroy the original Something else you need to consider is that i'm pretty sure the original rods won't be threaded on the plastic end, they would have been press fitted. So if the one's shown in your pic are internally threaded (most are) you'd still need a thread machined on the end of the original OR maybe a sleeve that is threaded on the outside but round on the inside. Even then the diameters will need to match.
A couple of things to consider:
- The rod is not threaded so if you use it then you must have a way to attach the replacement handle (I used a version with set screws)
- Some knobs may be too heavy and when installed will not allow the shifter to operate properly (i.e. it won't return to center)
Quoted from tiltmonster:You can make one for a few bucks yourself
Or you can buy a laser cut piece from me if you are not up to the DYI project. I’m willing to sell them as a standalone item apart from the mountain mod.
Quoted from golfergordy:Airballs are coming off the targets. Do target cushions actually reduce the intensity of airballs? Does Mr_Tantrum claim airball reduction with his target cushions?
I don't make any claims regarding airballs, as my targets were designed for styling. However, I use a thick mounting tape for the backing which does serve as a shock absorber.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:2nd Getaway fixed. Ended up being a ribbon cable causing no solenoids, no GI and no insert lights. I spent hours looking for the problem and finally got lucky. Anyway, I ‘m almost finished with her. Here’s some pics as promised.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Very nice!
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Anybody try and remove this big clear plastic rectangle?
[quoted image]
That’s where I mounted my Lambo. I also sell a road decal for that piece.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Da-Shaker:I’m not seeing any airball that it would deflect and nothing it’s protecting. I’m thinking of removing it to make it more visually appealing. Much like the Stern POTC sneeze guard.
I've had balls hit my car on occasion and land on that plastic. Personally, I say remove it if you want to and if/when you stick a couple of airballs up there and have to take the glass off to retrieve them you can always reinstall the piece. You must know that when they are testing games they learn where balls can get stuck and then take measures to prevent it from happening (i.e. they don't just arbitrarily put plastics on the game). In the case of Getaway, there were even service bulletins published after the game was launched regarding pieces to be added (e.g. the back left ball bracket) as a result of operators reporting balls getting stuck/lost.
In the spirit of Black Friday, I'm offering discounts on my items for a limited time: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-friday-sales-post-here-2022#post-7235621
Has anyone gone with orange rings/posts on their Getaway? I'm about to start on my playfield swap (we'll, a local pinball friend will be taking the lead), and I'm thinking orange would look really good and go with the orange on the plastics & playfield. If you have done orange rings/flipper rubbers, can you please post some pics?
Quoted from BoilerUp:I just saw this one the other day on the market done in orange and yellow.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/139891
Thanks, that's a really clean game. Not exactly what I'm thinking of doing, but the orange posts and flipper rubbers do give me a good visual. My plan is to go with clear posts and orange rings/rubbers.
I've done red posts with clear rings and clear posts with red rings in the past, and just looking for something that pops a little more with the new playfield. The oranges in this game look great IMO, so I'm thinking the orange bands would really add to the look.
I'm searching through the thread but was wondering if anyone who has powder coated their wireframes could please post photos. Trying to decide on color since my chrome is flaking.
Quoted from Acronymicon:Cary Hardy powdered his red if i recall correctly, looks great.
Im doing a complete resto and playfield swap on mine right now, was thinking of going gloss black and chrome accents throughout.
Yeah, I saw this pin and talked to him at last year's TPF. I like the red, was also considering orange or black. After doing some mockups, I think I'm going to choose a darker red color. I also thought black would look good, but I think I want a little more pop. BTW, this is not my pin but a random pic I pulled from this thread, so thanks to whoever took the photo.
Getaway Wireframe - Red (resized).jpgGetaway Wireframe - Orange (resized).jpgGetaway Wireframe - Black (resized).jpg
Quoted from Acronymicon:Thanks for sharing.
Maybe black with red flake?
I did black with silver flake on my Sopranos and really liked the effect on the wireforms.
That would be an interesting color. I think for my particular application, I'm wanting a solid deep red gloss color that complements the reds of the plastics and playfield.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I do have a lit ramp mod installed, but it doesn’t change it much.
Perfect, thanks.
SOLD 
My mistake is someone else's gain. As stated before, I'm in the process of swapping my playfield, and somehow I ended up purchasing double of a few items over the last few months as I've been prepping for the swap.
This leaves me with an extra set of playfield hold down brackets, service support brackets, and playfield slide assemblies (see photo). These parts were all purchased from Marco Specialties, still new in the bags, and to purchase them now the total would be $153 including shipping.
2 x 01-8419 ($8.99 each)
2 x 01-10721 ($27.99 each) - currently only 1 in stock
1 x A-17749.1-1 ($32.99)
1 x A-17749.1-2 ($32.99) - currently out of stock
Shipping - $12.99 (most economical)
If your early 90's Getaway is anything like mine, all of these parts are rusted and the slide assemblies broken and/or not functioning correctly. Since I have no use for these parts, I'm offering them as a bundle for $120 including US shipping (that's a 21.5% discount equaling $33). BTW, you don't need to be doing a playfield swap to need/use these parts.
Please PM me if interested in purchasing, and the first to respond gets the parts.
IMG_8240 (resized).JPG
Quoted from golfergordy:Regarding my post #12506, apparently I didn't have the same problem that ktcoady12 had (where his pf got stuck). My pf getting stuck problem (a few months ago) was much worse and much more difficult to recover from. I didn't previously make any post about it because I was so shook up I wanted to keep it out of my mind, but ktcoady12 bringing up the topic has reminded me that there was one key condition in my game that I want to advise everyone to check their games for: one of the pics shows 2-screws holding a steel bar to the backside corner of the pf. You must pull the glass and lift up the pf and pull it forward as far as it goes, and look behind the pf in either corner (there is a steel bar in each corner). Just below the pf this bar is bent approx. 30 degrees and the bottom leg runs beneath the pf and rides on the wooden rail mounted to the side, inside wall of the game cabinet (I rubbed some soap onto the wooden rail to reduce friction so the steel bar smoothly rides on the rail). When you pull the pf up, or put it back into its playing position, this bar slides on the rail. See other pic - the end of this bar is bent and forms a semi-circle. The semi-circular section rides on the wooden rail so that there's no sharp edge to get hung up on the wood. The problem I had occurred because the 2-screws holding each bar in position became very loose (one screw was actually missing) and the bar wobbled whenever the pf was pulled forward or backward for servicing. My advice to all Getaway owners is to check to see that the 2-screws holding each steel bar in position are tightly screwed in. I doubt if my pf getting stuck problem would have occurred if these screws weren't extremely loose.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Oddly enough, you are demonstrating something I also noticed while doing my playfield swap. There are two of those brackets (rear playfield guides #01-10726) on the back bottom of the playfield (one at left and one at right). My playfield has always been so difficult to put in the lock position and the angle I have to lift it is extreme compared to what I've seen in videos. As I was searching and buying replacement parts for my playfield swap it hit me - it looks like those brackets are supposed to be straight and not bent. While I've not installed my new playfield yet, I am going to straighten the bracket shape before doing so and I'm hoping will make things much easier when tilting the playfield up (along with the other new parts I'm installing).
For those of you who do have a very easy time of lifting your playfield into the lock position and rocking it up, maybe you could report on the shape of your rear playfield guides. It would be interesting to know if bent ones are really an issue or not.
Quoted from Kobaja:no - at least they look way to evenly bent to not be designed like that.
[quoted image]
see my PM
Thanks, very helpful.
Quoted from golfergordy:Since my post gave rise to Mr_Tantrum's starting this topic, everyone should already be aware that my rear brackets are bent. Once I first learned how to do it, getting my pf into the vertical service position has always been relatively easy. Sliding the pf back & forth while getting it to & from the service position has always seemed a little bit rough, so I rubbed a bar of soap onto the surfaces that slide against each other (the steel brackets & the wooden rails they slide on) and since then it's much smoother. I think that the brackets are intended to be bent because when I slide the pf back & forth I notice flexing of the brackets, sort of like a shock absorber, to reduce sudden jarring of the pf while it's sliding. If the brackets were straight (not bent), I don't think they would flex as much, and maybe hardly at all. I think the flexing is a good thing. On the other hand, I think the flexing puts more stress on the screws that hold the brackets in place, and that's why my bracket hold down screws got loose over the last 30-years. I now check those screws for tightness almost every couple of months. Actually, when I checked the brackets on my Getaway for the purpose of this post, the screws were a bit loose. Maybe I should use some locktite.
After receiving several replies, indeed the brackets are intended to be bent (not sure why Marcos shows the straight). I have my new playfield in, and it slides like butter and is so much easier to lift with the new brackets. When examining the old ones there were stress fractures in them and I'm assuming they flexed when in use which was causing my playfield lifting issues.
Playfield is set and looking good. Still working out a couple of mechanical issues, but with any luck Getaway will be back up and fully operational by the end of the day. Once it is up and running, I'll post some more photos with the game turned on. For the most part I haven't installed any of my mods yet (that will come later), as we wanted to focus on just making sure everything worked as designed before I started adding on more electrical components
FYI: My chrome wireframes were looking pretty bad (flacking, rusty spots, etc.) so I decided to powder coat them in Bengal Red, and I think they came out great.
Quoted from golfergordy:Mr_Tantrum,
I'm loving your new look! Are you still gonna install side art blades? Every time I lift my pf I imagine how super-careful one must be to avoid damaging them (which is why I don't have them). I don't know when side art blades first became popular on pins, but I doubt if Williams gave any thought to them in the Getaway design. Newer pins have more open space between outer edge of pf and inside of cabinet wall.
Yes, but ONLY AFTER I finish all of the underside work. My current ones were ripped to shreds for the hundreds of times I had the playfield lifted up and down. I've actually already made them, and they are the same design as I used before (getaway art style snow capped mountains, greenery at bottom, and blue sky with clouds).
BTW, I've installed 3 or 4 sets of art blades and I've never removed the playfield to do it.
Dang it! I busted one of those stupid badly designed flipper pawls that Bally/Williams used during the time period. Put a Marco's order in this morning, so still going to be a few days before I can play my first game with the new playfield.
As far as everything else goes, the game is 100% operational and tested. I'm planning out my re-modding, and most things will go back on:
- Donut Heaven Building
- Mountain
- Illuminated flipper bats
- Flipper toppers
- Custom added lighting underneath plastics, gauges, etc.
- Spotlights in key places
- Lambo & Police cards
- etc.
Once I get everything done, I'll post plenty of photos, share credits, etc.
Quoted from golfergordy:I imagine that the next time I install side art blades (which will be my 2nd time) the process will go more smoothly than it did the 1st time. Has anyone used these ( https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html ) to protect art blades? And, if so, what do you think of them? Does installing & removing them every time you raise the pf become a pain-in-the-butt ?
Instead of spending $40 you could just buy some cheap masking paper in a roll and tape it to the sides when you are going to lift the playfield. Personally, I'm too lazy to do this, but the paper would be thinner than the plastic, you don't have to store those large pieces, and you're not worried about bending/crimping them in the process.
https://www.amazon.com/Trimaco-PR12-General-Purpose-Masking/dp/B000KKW2TM/ref=sr_1_4
I have mirrors on my AFM & my previously owned DE JP, but art blades on my Getaway and Stern JP Premium. I like them both and could really go either way. Some games seem to lend themselves to one over the other IMO, but I think that either way whatever you choose looks better than the black of the inside cabinet.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Everyone has their own preference, I like the darkness of the black background over art blades and mirror blades...
It takes all kinds of us. 
Quoted from djsolzs:I just grabbed this game and am somewhat overwhelmed trying to figure out what mods to get from you!
PM me and I'll send you a list of all I currently offer (not everything is in the Pinside Market).
I'm having an issue but before I detail it can someone please post a closeup of their center target bank from the underside. I need to be able to clearly see the wiring. I've looked through the photos I have from others prior to the playfield swap, but I can't find any closeups of this area. Attached is my current configuration.
All fixed. I started a support thread late this afternoon when I hadn't seen any posts yet (figured most weren't home from work for the day), and turned out Grumpy had the solution (white wires to soldered to wrong side of diodes). Thank you to everyone for the photos and support. I've now worked out all of the bugs from the playfield swap, and game is 100% operational. Just played a couple of games before I went to bed, and it plays great!
Quoted from Acronymicon:Also quick question, but do any of you guys use a bunch of threadlocker on your supercharger diverter? I had to hit the base with a torch and crank super hard to break the set screws on mine.
Yikes, no such issue for me.
Well, my Getaway playfield swap is complete, everything is 100% operational, and most all of my mods and custom lighting have been installed (I may or may not do a couple of more things later). This was quite the experience, and while I initially was going to undertake the swap on my own (would have been my first), due to time and space constraints I solicited a few local pinball restorers and am extremely pleased with the gentleman that did the work. Before I share photos, I wanted to give credit to a few people.
First, to those who encouraged me that I could do the project and shared their experiences with me and helpful tips in advance and during the process:
- Carry Hardy | seeing his Getaway restoration at TPF last year and talking to him is what planted the idea in my brain in the first place. Also, it was his idea to use the orange lower target banks which inspired my to highlight orange with my rings/rubbers.
- Chris Hutchison (aka @high_end_pins) | Chris is a world-class pinball restorer and I sincerely appreciate him taking the time to answer some of my questions and giving me guidance.
- Kobaja | He had done his Getaway playfield/restoration recently and his documentation was exemplary. Following his guidance was extremely helpful throughout the process.
The playfield itself & parts
- Buthamburg Pinball | The quality of this playfield rivals any I've ever seen - it's beautiful. Their team was extremely helpful during the purchasing process, shipping was fast from Germany, and the playfield arrived in perfect condition.
- North Texas Powder Coating | A local shop who did my two wireframes & apron wire. The Bengal Red turned out to be really nice and even perfectly matches my red Lambo diecast model. I'm thinking about getting a quote from them to do my legs, side rails, and lockbar in the same color.
- Pinball Suppliers | Marco Specialties, Pinball Life, Planetary Pinball, Titan Pinball, and probably a couple of others I'm not recalling right now.
The actual swap:
- PantherCityPins | I cannot say enough positive things about Rick. I met Rick a couple of years ago, when he purchased some of my mods and came over to my house to pick them up. Turns out we live about 20 minutes apart, and I quickly learned just how much into pinball Rick is. As a hobby (he has a full-time career outside of pinball) he has refurbished a multitude of pins for himself and for customers. After the other local restorers I know just couldn't fit me in, I was talking to Rick and he said that he would be willing to take on the project. He helped me plan the swap (e.g. all of the parts I needed to buy in advance), and even came over to remove the playfield himself as well as bringing the new playfield back and installing it. Long story short, what I thought was going to take at least a month turned out to be just two weeks. Rick allowed me to come over to his shop whenever I wanted to not only observe, but to also help with the playfield swap (I was responsible for maybe 0.1% of the work that was done)
. He was extremely knowledgeable, meticulous, open and honest about everything, and communicated with me almost daily on the progress. He also wasn't happy until he made sure the game was working 100%, and helped me on the few issues that needed to be addressed post-install. If you have a pin project you need done, I would highly encourage you to contact PantherCityPins to see if he can help.
My personal contributions (excluding a variety of third party mods I kept from my original playfield)
- 3D Donut Heaven
- 3D Mountain
- 3D Traffic Light
- 3D flipper toppers
- Custom designed & produced plastics
- Custom designed & produced art blades
- Lots of custom additional lighting | under plastics, spotlights, and other places
- Custom decals
With credit given where due (along with several others responding to my posts along the way), I thought I would share photos of the results. You'll see that I made a few alternate choices from the OEM machine, as I wanted it to be someone personalized to my taste (I don't plan on ever letting this one go - besides, I have way more into it than what I could ever sell it for). If you see anything you have questions about, please don't hesitate to post your questions.
Overhead shots
IMG_8341 (resized).JPG
IMG_8353 (resized).JPG
IMG_8354 (resized).JPG
Playfield closeups
IMG_8355 (resized).JPG
IMG_8356 (resized).JPG
IMG_8357 (resized).JPG
IMG_8358 (resized).JPG
IMG_8359 (resized).JPG
IMG_8360 (resized).JPG
Custom gauges/plastics & lighting
IMG_8361 (resized).JPG
IMG_8362 (resized).JPG
IMG_8363 (resized).JPG
Finally, I figured now was a good time to breakout my Steve Ritchie signed apron card
IMG_8364 (resized).JPG
Quoted from golfergordy:Mr_Tantrum,
If that was my game I would be afraid to play it for fear of making it again looking used, and I'd be even more afraid to let anyone else play it - it belongs in a museum. Great work!
I can verify that the apron card's Steve Ritchie signature is a genuine likeness (a photo, or maybe even original), because it looks very close to Ritchie's signature on the translite of my Getaway. I verified my Ritchie signature's authenticity with Ritchie himself at the 2021 Chicago Pinball Expo. I briefly spoke to Ritchie again (at the JJP factory tour) during the 2022 Chicago Pinball Expo. Ritchie is a pinball icon - I told him his The Getaway game was fantastic.
Thanks, but it was made to be played, and I’m loving it more than ever now!
I was the one that had him sign the card at TPF last year. Kind of funny because I’m not one to have people sign things, but a pinball friend asked me if I would have Steve sign something for him, so I figured I might as well have him sign a card for me while I was at it. Also, few things about that interaction. First, I complemented him on his watch and he appreciated that. He then looked at the card and commented how nice it was, asked if I made it, and when I told him I did he complemented me. Finally, I asked him to sign his name and the write “The Kingpin” below, and at first he didn’t understand. I told him “You know, “KINGPIN” from the license plate on the Getaway backglass”. That jogged his memory, he cracked a little smile, and signed my card.
Just my 2 cents on the topic:
1 - I have Rottendog boards in my Getaway and had them in my previously owned DE Jurassic Park. In both cases, I had components go out on the boards that I had to replace. While great boards and while I'm also incredibly appreciative the boards were available when I needed them, electronics fail for whatever reason regardless of the product manufacturer.
2 - Chris Hibler is probably the overall best board repairer we have in this hobby. His skill and experienced coupled with his open communication and reasonable pricing make him the go-to for me (he has repaired boards for me in the past and taken boards to recycle that I no longer wanted). I'm not making any judgement towards any other person who repairs boards, but Mr. Hibler is a genuine "expert".
3 - Intermittent issues are sometimes very difficult to track down and the issue may not lie where you think it is. I used to have a term for this type of thing referring to such events as being "consistently inconsistent". All I can say is you should be taking detailed notes of the incident, log the actions you take and what effect they have (if any), and if you want to isolate and resolve the issue on your own then provide all details to the group in a concise organized manner.
Over the last few years, I've had some really tough issues with a couple of my games that no one else had seemed to ever experience (resolving my unique DE JP T-Rex issues took several weeks). However, over time when providing meticulous details to the group and following suggestions then reporting back in detail, in every case I was eventually able to determine and resolve the core issues with the support of Pinside.
Quoted from golfergordy:First of all, I thank every one of you who have commented in response to my posts #12565 & #12569 on the shutoff/reset issue. Next I'll summarize the comments/suggestions that have been made.
*Check for burnt connectors
*Utilize Chris Hibler for board consultation/work
*Problem may be elsewhere and not in the PDB
*Try reseating connectors
*Could be a 12V reset problem
*Might be too many mods
*Do more online reading on the reset issue
*LM7812 might be the problem
*Provide more information in "meticulous detail"
My comments to the above:
1) The intent of my original post on this subject was to get opinions on the suitability of using the KAHR.com Daughter Board. No one on this forum has recommended using it, and since the collective experience of the responders is far greater of mine in this hobby (2-yrs), I'm putting that option way down on my list of possibilities. I will point out, however, that several months ago I did make a post related to the reset problem, and someone did mention a daughter board (I'm not gonna look that post up to see who mentioned it).
2) Now that Chris Hibler has received an almost unanimous recommendation, using him as an "expert" is now high on my list. I noticed on his website, however, that he has a 90-day turnover (a very busy guy). Also, I think I should have more detailed data before contacting him - such as voltage readings while the game is experiencing resetting, and not only when the game plays normal. When resetting did occur one time, I noticed that hitting both flipper buttons at the same time seemed to be the straw that broke the camel's back, and the game immediately shut off.
3) The comment that there might be a problem in the 12V circuit rang a bell. Maybe a year ago the mars light on top of the back box had a problem - the rotating reflector motor struggled to start up (you could hear some vibration during startup) and after 1-2 seconds it usually then started up and rotated the reflector as normal, but sometimes wouldn't rotate the reflector at all. Both the motor and bulb in the ass'y are on the same 12V circuit, so I replaced the original bulb with an LED (which draws much less current) which fixed the problem and the motor has worked great ever since.
4) Regarding installed mods - I've got Mr_Tantrum's Donut Heaven and Mountain (with lighting), and a lighted Freeway Entrance sign above the left to right long loop entrance. All of these connect to lighting circuits below the pf.
I'll be preparing a list of pertinent voltage readings that I will periodically make and record, and when the next reset occurs, take readings again at that time, and hopefully something will stick out like a sore thumb. Also, inspecting & checking for poor wiring connections all over might reveal something.
Thanks again for all your comments.
While Chris is the "go to" for board repair (yes, he always has a backlog), I would not want to discourage you from attempting to isolate the issue yourself. When I first got into pinball, I didn't know much about electronics or testing board components, etc. so I typically would either have a board repaired or replaced. Once I got a nice multi-meter and read up on how to test various board components and read schematics a little, I was able to track down some faulty parts on a couple of boards and did the replacements successfully myself.
Wiring is one thing, but if you know where the problem is occurring you can typically trace it back to a specific location on the board via the schematics in the manual. Personally, I would suggest starting at the source and then working downstream if source is good. However, I still consider myself the novice when it comes to electronics, so take my advice accordingly.
Another suggestion for electronic issues is to open a new thread just for the issue. While there are plenty of knowledgable owners in this thread, you are missing out on the majority of Pinsiders seeing your posts. Getaway is a WPC 89 pin, and there are many others. There are plenty of owners who know these machines extremely well and maybe can respond to your issue even if they don't own a Getaway.
Also, if you are not familiar with it, PinWIKI is a great information resource. Here is the link to the WPC section: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC
As far as my mods go, they just connect to the GI circuit and are very low load since they all use LEDs. BTW, do you have LEDs in your pin or incandescent bulbs (the latter draw significantly more power)?
Quoted from Malenko:Whatcha doin with the old one?
My plan is to make wall art out of it (maybe even illuminate the inserts), but that's a project for a future time.
Quoted from Cobradvs:Hey everyone! I picked up a Getaway as my 2nd pin recently (Mousin' Around was first)! Happy to be in the club! I made a video on my YouTube channel talking about the buying experience, condition of the machine, mods, etc...check it out if interested!
Great choice. I may be partial, but I think everyone with more than one pin needs to have a Getaway in their collections. Fun, fast, easy rules, but still challenging. Definitely keeps you coming back for more.
Regarding your video:
- Ball should launch, perform a full lefthand loop (not feed into the pop bumpers), and return to the right flipper (you are correct in that the culprit is typically the metal rail)
- The lean is important to have correct or the ball looping won't hit the upper flipper or post just below it and not return to the right flipper
- Check switches occurs when a particular switch has not been tripped over a period of time. If you've not locked a second or third ball in several games, it is common to get a switch error for one of those. Go into test mode, switch edges, and make sure those switches register consistently and also make sure they are sticking out far enough into the wireframe so that a ball actually trips them.
- With the machine off and playfield lifted manually move the ball lock rod up and down to make sure nothing sticks or catches.
- If you upgrade to LED's DO NOT BUY A KIT. There is plenty of documentation in this thread from myself and others over custom LED configurations. Also, p-l-e-a-s-e use white (cool or warm) for all GI under the plastics to highlight the art instead of washing it out with color LEDs.
Also, what version of ROM are you running?
You mention some modest modding, PM me if you have any questions regarding the mods I offer (I do the 3D Donut Heaven as well as the Krispy Kreme themed Donut Heave decal), 3D mountain, etc.
Quoted from Cobradvs:Thanks! So far it absolutely has kept me coming back. Looking at doing LEDs next. I saw your pics above and it appears you have LEDs. Did you go with a kit or pick the bulbs out individually as you wanted? Did you go with Comet?
Custom LED selection. Here is my original post you can use as a starting place, but I've actually done a variety of changes over time. I highly recommend Comet for all LEDs. I've purchased lighting from them exclusively for all of my pins, pins I've done for friends, and for all of the mods with lighting that I offer.
BTW, use the search function in the thread and search for LED and either leave the pinsider name blank or put my name in if you want to filter and see all of my posts on the subject.
The reason I ask about firmware is that most of us Getaway owners run L2. L1 (possibly) and L5 (certainly) have a bug where multiple balls can/will be released from ball lock during multi-player.
Quoted from Cobradvs:Sorry, apparently I didn't see your full comment when I first read through. Anyway, I will run through the switch edge test to test out the multiball post. Also you're correct about the plunge and mine does go all the way around the the right flipper, I mispoke in the video.
I am running L1 according to the start-up. I read some stuff about the different software revs and saw L2 was the most popular, but not sure I ever read why.
Noted on the LED kit. Your list will be super helpful. My manual only lists 5 bulbs for GI (2 #44s and 3 #555s). That seems like not very many. Am I missing something? Also I'm thinking I want to do cool/natural instead of warm lights. I notice you bounced back and forth for different inserts. What was the thinking there? Just some differentiation?
- See ROM feature list here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin?tq=l2&tu=#postbox
- I would highly recommend upgrading to L2. I buy my ROMs from here: https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/high-speed-ii-the-getaway-pinball-cpu-rom-l-5-u6-bally-williams-eprom
- If you hapeen to have two-state flippers (very few do, and only in later builds) then L5 is required for the two-state right side to function (i.e. push flipper button in partially and the upper right fires, push it in fully and the lower flipper fires).
- I'm all cool/natural white in my Getaway GI, and it really makes the art pop more and seems brighter overall. Not exactly sure what you are referring to about the 5 bulbs for GI, but that is wrong.
- For inserts, I now prefer the 4 SMD non-ghosting no dome LED's from Comet. They are super bright which I like, so if you want to back off a little go with their single SMD bulbs. I typically match bulbs to insert colors with a few exceptions (cool white for white, warm white for orange, etc.) If you start making your list and have specific questions on my bulb & color choices, then PM me.
Wanted to share my latest Getaway mod with the group. I have a red dish in the tunnel (which I think is standard), but I added two additional sockets with dual head Comet flex bulbs and then attached them to the corresponding twist socket using Comet's Matrix twist socket replacements. This setup gives the game a little more interactive feel as it relates to the tunnel inserts.
Parts List (assuming you have my lit tunnel installed):
3 x Matrix Twist Sockets | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-twist-socket?variant=39496185151590
2 x Add-on Light Sockets | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/add-on-light-sockets?variant=12493659635756
2 x 12 inch Matrix Extension Wires | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires?variant=12493662158892
1 x Two Headed Flex Non-Ghosting Wedge (555) Red | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/two-headed-flex-non-ghosting?variant=12386975875116
1 x Two Headed Flex Non-Ghosting Wedge (555) Amber/Orange | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/two-headed-flex-non-ghosting?variant=12386976366636
2 x #6 1/2" Hex head wood screws to mount Light Sockets to underside of playfield
No inserts illuminated = no lighting
Getaway_NoLights.gif
Burn Rubber insert lit = tunnel light on (pulsing is a camera anomaly due to frame rate)
Getaway_BurnRubber.gif
Video Mode insert lit = Dish flashing red (two-headed red Comet flex bulb)
Getaway_VideoMode.gif
Extra Ball insert lit = Dish flashing orange (two-headed orange Comet flex bulb gives the dish a dark orange appearance)
Getaway_ExtraBall.gif
Just wanted to correct my terminology. The red mountain tunnel "dish" is actually a "saucer".
Quoted from kyle5574:I recently played a few machines that had LED OCD installed and I was surprised that I had no issues with them at all. So I finally switched to LEDs in my Getaway in my inserts and installed LED OCD. I’m really happy with it. There’s some comparison shots and demonstration of strobing in this video.
I just buy non-ghosting Comet LEDs and neither strobing or ghosting is an issue for me (curious how this effect is more perceptible to some people). I do sometimes notice it with Comet LED strips, but they now supply an anti-strobing in-line attachment with their strips that removes this effect.
I will say that DE games tend to have more issues with LEDs. I installed a EnerGI Maestro in my old DE JP and doing so provided significant improvement. I also liked that the board allowed you to dim the backbox lighting during game play (I think the GI OCD can do the same).
I've also read somewhere that this is ultimately a firmware issue, and that there are hacked ROM versions for many games that remove the ghosting effect of LEDs in a game (not sure about the strobing).
In looking at Comet's LED OCD boards, it appears you have two options (I'm a little unclear if you can install both at the same time, can someone confirm?).
Also, there may be issues if you use any kind of effects bulbs (e.g. blinking, fire bulbs, etc.)
Interesting FAQs
LED OCD: http://ledocd.com/faq_led.html
GI OCD: http://ledocd.com/faq_gi.html
Looks like individual lamps are also customizable - very cool!
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I was reading this thinking "wtf is he talking about?!" But then I finally figured out that your saucer is a "dish"!
Oops, wrong terminology - thanks for the reminder. That seems to happen more often as I get older 
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Too funny, I just couldn't resist bustin your ballz on that one bro! All in good fun buddy.
I don't mind. Accurate language is important.
Quoted from kyle5574:Did taillights on Cadillac SUVs in the mid-2000s bother you? Or LED Christmas lights when they first came out around the same time?
Actually, I do remember the Cadillac taillights pulsing but it didn't bother me. I also remember the early LED Christmas lights and thought they looked terrible, but they didn't really bother my brain any.
The LEDs are obviously pulsing, but it's kind of like some people's vision/brain processes at 30 fpm and don't perceive the pulsing while others process at 60 fpm and perceive the "off" state during the pulsing.
Quoted from kyle5574:I've had L-2 for years and I've only ran into the endless multiball bug once. It's worth it to me to keep L-2 just for the Run the Red Light text.
Other L-2 bug to watch out for is the Secret Mania bug. I've got a video of that one occurring on YouTube.
It's happened to me maybe 3 times in 5 years. There are a specific set of circumstances that cause it to arise. Here is the explanation I referenced sometime ago in this thread related to "endless multiball":
"However, the bug is slightly mislabeled, even though that is the generally-seen manifestation. The bug is that every 3rd ball arrival into the lockup starts multiball. So normally what happens is people have 1 or 2 balls locked, then start RLM. RLM runs normally, you get a jackpot. If you had 2 balls locked, then the arrival of the jackpot ball restarts multiball (complete with ball saver (even for multiball 2+), relaunching drained ball(s), and making light jackpot lit (i.e. 20 loops to light jackpot)). If you had 1 ball locked, then you can go for the RLM super (augmented to 100M) after RLM jackpot. If you make the super shot, then at that point that will be the third arrival, and multiball will restart. With 0 balls locked, you can get jackpot-super-super then multiball restarts.
Similarly, you could have one ball locked, get a jackpot during RLM, light lock again, lock 1 ball, multiball starts. Confused yet? It's easy for me because I understand exactly why the bug is there."
Quoted from tiltmonster:A shifter error can be as simple as only using one direction for an extended period of time, I always alternate between shifting up and then down...
Yeah, I think that was just a result of installing the new ROM.
Quoted from monkfe:I also have the light bar that Mr_Tantrum has on his machine that I believe was made to tap into a pinsound board. I don't recall all the particulars of the install. Never out of the box... 30.00 ...shoot me a pm in interested.
FYI, here is the link to my post about the lightbar: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/236#post-6685017
A couple of points:
- Wasn't my original idea, EStroh deserves the credit.
- Actually I ended up moving the light bar to the backside of the backbox near the top as the flashing became a little overwhelming pointing forward. I still really like it and the effect is great with the red & blue light bouncing off the back wall and ceiling.
Quoted from Walamab:I've been scratch building a Getaway and decided to use a more "modern" police light instead of the spinning MARS lamp. I've got it working and here are the results.
This is the same/similar lightbar that I added in addition to the mars lamp (control it through the relay on the PinSound shaker). I actually ended up moving it to the backside of the head because it became a little overwhelming to the senses when playing.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I have a Getaway HSII I'll be selling soon.
Noooooooo!
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:I own (2)... I got 2nd in a package deal
I guess I'll allow it then.
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
I need some expert advice .
My pinsound on the HS2 is acting a lil strange and I’m wondering if you can shed some light. Preliminarily , I’m thinking some switch or an EOS is causing this issue.
I took off the glass,
Started a game , music plays, I hit all the bumpers and switches all is good once I hit the right flipper. The music stops and a new sound (I think it’s the turbo sound). So, no music but this aggravating turbo sound I till the ball drains or hits the kick out saucer.
Then music starts again till I hit the flipper.
Any idea?
This just started and everything was previously working correctly? Does this occur on multiple orchestrations? Sounds really odd as I don't believe the flippers trigger any sound during game play (they do trigger engine rev sound while ball is waiting to be launched). If you initiate a psrec on the USB, play a game until this issue occurs, and look at the psrec in PinSound Studio, what do you see (i.e. what sound is it that is triggered). As you know sounds are all triggered by some event, so curious what is occuring here.
Another option is to get a new/different USB drive, install an orchestration from scratch on it, then play and see if the issue persists. If not, then some issue with your USB and probably need to reformat and start over. If it does persist then something completely different is occuring.
Quoted from Hapidance:Mr_Tantrum
I’m not sure everything was 100% from the start.
I installed the card.
Downloaded various orchistrations onto the usb I purchased with the card and the headset station.
I believe it’s a prolonged engine rev i hear.
It happens on all orchistrations and is quite annoying.
I’m not sure what you mean by “initiating a psrec on the usb” take the usb out ,
Plug it in The computer , open sound studio and see what that sound is for sure?
I haven’t messed around with sound studio yet. Too much good stuff you already made!
I started a game, hit all the switches with a ball, ramps lock and all is well. Hit the right flipper, the music ends and that awfull sound starts playing….
Ugggg
I really think somthing is triggering that sound as opposed to the memory usb
In PinSound Studio you can enable recordings. Then, next time you start a game it will record the sound events in a log. You can then open that log in PSS and see exactly when the error occurred and what sound event was called. For some reason the right flipper action is triggering something, so just trying to gain more data on that.
I would also disconnect all cables on the PinSound, closely inspect all pins are alinged properly, then reconnect cables. Probably not an issue, but starting with the basics.
I also assume you have the most recent firmware installed?
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider mr_tantrum.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/9?tu=mr_tantrum and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Fort Worth, TX
