Nice continuity catch.

Look at the supercharger ramp sign. The yellow and red lights are swapped (redline mania on left).

Hi guys, I just finished installing Beatmasters red shooter plate light up and my red Leg Light-Ups. I even had 3 (no 4th one) clear plastic bolts to attach the shifter plate to the game so even the heads light up. Those REALLY wake up the front of the cab. They look way better in real life. Here's some pictures.

These 4 pictures were taken with the room lights on.
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These 4 pictures were taken with room lights off. You can see how the lit shooter plate lights up the shifter shaft and the plastic bolt heads.
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That is really cool, love all the red lighting. I also really like the clear bolts (didn't know there was such a thing).

I'd also like to get 1 play for a quarter and 4 for a dollar today!

Paul, it looks like it's on fire on the inside, or like there's molten lava coming out of it!

lol... back in my day it was 1 game, 5 balls for $.25 and 5 plays for a $1.00, no wonder why I got hooked...

I never thought about it that way before.

I like the red shifter light piece.

Beatmaster makes a great mod doesn't he, I have those on most of my games. If your interested in one for your game contact him, he makes standard ones too.

I had no idea a previous owner had hacked my left ball drain guide until another on the forum was asking something about it, and when I looked at mine I realized I had a completely different part (just a wire guide). Pinside to the rescue as I was able to source the part and just finished install. Was more difficult than I thought as I had to drill out a hole that had a busted screw in it, had to fill another hole and paint, and I could not find metal spacers locally, but I came up with the idea of covering nylon ones with aluminum foil tape (seems to do the job just fine).

Life is so much better when things are right with your pinball machine!

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Mr T are any of theee pics "before" pics? I can't see what the original issue was. Looks good now though.

Above are all after pics. However, before pics are here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/62#post-3334320

Well, I finally got around to attempting my first cabinet decal. I purchased an entire set a couple of months ago from a Pinsider who also does graphics professionally at an exceptional cost. I found him by Googling around one time, and discovered him on VP forums where he offers custom cabinet art printing. He doesn't really advertise, but as I've stated before in this thread he does excellent work, is a pinhead himself, and offers terrific pricing for cabinet decals as his way of giving back to the pinball community. If anyone is interested, you may PM me and I will provide his email address.

On to my experience . . .

I'm not a lazy person, but the thought of disassembling my Getaway, getting it downstairs and back up again, along with all the other headache is not appealing to me in order to redo the cabinet art. However, my Getaway really needs it due to fading, and instead of red most of the graphics are hot pink now. So, I've researched, watched videos, practiced techniques, etc. and am going to do my pin in place where it is upstairs in the game room. I'm doing minor disassembly as needed (bolts and anything else to get to a flat surface), repairing edges/holes, sanding, cleaning, repainting edges, painting bold heads, etc. as part of the decal process.

This morning I completed the right side of the backbox for my first efforts, and the results are outstanding to me. First of all, the graphics are printed on extremely high quality, opaque (under graphics will not bleed through - I can't even see light from flashlight when placed directly behind the vinyl), clear laminated, non-bubbling vinyl. The material is awesome to work with, and when it sticks it is on for good. The exact material is something called Orajet Digital Printing Media with Rapid Air technology (at least that is printed on backing). Anyway, I can't speak highly enough of the quality of product or the Pinsider that produced it for me (I provided him the artwork, and he did the rest).

As is often the case, the pics don't show as well as seeing it in real life. The old colors are very pink and dull. The new colors are vivid and red, the blacks are deep, and the clear laminate gives it a very nice glossy appearance. Yes you will see some minor imperfections due to the fact that I'm not doing a full cabinet restore (these are minor surface prep issues, and not bubbles as it seems nearly impossible to trap a bubble in this stuff). Oddly enough, you can see these better in the photographs (especially when zooming) than what you see live. My goal here was to redo the graphics with minimal effort that achieves very good results. I am confident that my work will be quite good, and while not as perfect as those who do full disassembles and cabinet restorations, there will be nothing that will detract from the look and quality of the cabinet when I am finished.

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Awesome job Mr_Tantrum! I'm glad you like the material...it's very easy to use. Thanks for the praise and sharing your experience. Machine looks beautiful.

Just finished left side of backbox, and it looks even better than the right (fewer imperfections on the surface). Although, in addition to the 4 brace bolts, I had to also remove the light board assembly from the backbox since it also had 4 bolts. Not too difficult as I just left it connected, but removed it from the mounts and laid face down on the glass while I performed the work. Sorry, no pics this time as that side is up against the wall. I must say, however, it does get easier with experience.

Shoot, I've been off Pinside for awhile so just saw this. And I see later that you got it fixed. But, you could have come over to my place and taken mine apart to use as a guide too. Oh well, I guess I should have checked in here sooner.

Thanks anyway Bob.

Where has everyone that has installed new cabinet decals purchase them from? I have a set here that came with my first HS2. They are ok, but don't have all of the shading and 3-d effects like the originals do. The most noticeable is on the head decals.

I just got on the preorder list with Peter for his new Getaway pf. Was wondering who else is getting one.

Sounds like quite a project. Not one I'm willing to take on with my current skill set. Good luck!

Mr_Tantrum...

The artwork looks slightly different from "before / original". I do like the bright reds in the "After" version. Can you let us know why the change, from the original artwork?

Oh no telling when I'll get to it but at least I'll have the CRITICAL part....the pf.

Posting on behalf of a mate.

Currently having supercharger problems. 1st opto was testing bad (would not respond with a ball passed through). Opto has now been replaced, and now the OPTO test page is saying opto 1 'bad' (other two showing 'closed').

Additionally, getting the test report message about switch 81 during test.

Any ideas one where to look next? Wire harnesses for the opto board have been removed and re-connected.

Thanks in advance!

I have one coming as well. No more searching for a mint HS2, just fixing the one I have.

Well that's 2 of us. I hope he gets enough interest to make them.

I also emailed Planetary to see if they have some pictures of the silk screened artwork they have for HS2. There seems to be some sets that just don't match the originals. Was looking at my head decals, and there is quite a bit of different shading to create a 3-d effect. The set I have doesn't have any of that.

My original artwork is very faded and pink. Even though in some photos my graphics can appear fairly red, in real life they look more like bubble gum color. With all the upgrades I've done with bright LEDs, apron art, blade art, vinyl wrap, etc. the cabinet just looks sad compared to the rest of the machine, so I wanted to give it a refresh.

The artwork I have are not licensed graphics, but a well done representation from a Pinsider. Therefore, the design is slightly different than original, but close enough for me to be quite happy with it. You may download from my site if you wish to look at it more closely to compare to original graphics: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball. In my mind, it was close enough and finding artwork to be done by my printer of choice instead of buying from advertised offerings that were out there (significantly more expensive) was quite challenging.

If you are looking for a perfect graphics match, then you will need to go somewhere else (and pay significantly more). However, if you are looking for a very nice representation that is professionally printed on high quality laminated media, then the combination of the artwork I have along with the printer who produced the graphics is a great choice. Everyone has to make their own quality/value decision based upon what they like and how much they wish to spend.

As a FYI, these pics show the pinkishness & fading of my current graphics pretty well (I've not yet replaced these, but they are on the schedule to do so).

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Mine are very pink as well. The set I have will work I am sure, but my OCD always kicks in.

I would say that if you are willing to spend the premium bucks, then by all means get what you want and what you will be happy with in the long-term. You might even defer the cost if you take some good pics and put your current decal set up for sale.

swampy I will not be much help, but I had an opto problem as well. My error said supercharger error but it turned out to be the entrance ramp transmit opto. I put in a new opto receiver first and the issue was still there so I put a new transmitter in and that solved the problem. I'm not sure what switch 81 is but the switch test can help you find it. Others here may be able to help better or go to the tech forum and ask in the Williams subpages.

Im on the list but giving that my playfield is actually pretty nice (not perfect but nice).. and that in ?Can dollars it will cost me at least $1400.00 .. I just dont see how i can pull the trigger. Even with an otherwise mint HS2 i dont think that i would ever recoup the cost. What do you guys think ?

It's almost like you could build one from off the shelf parts. That would likely make it more than it's worth, but if I was going to do that, I'd probably do one that sells for more

I wouldn't recommend replacing your playfield if you are concerned about resale. Do it because you love the game if it's a keeper. No regrets here but I fix for me not for reselling or flipping.

Dang, at $1400 I'd think long and hard.

Pinball in the wild! Went to the local Putt-Putt. Ghostbusters and Mustang were there. Mustang needed flipper maintenance and Ghostbusters tilt was set way too sensitive but still cool to find some games in the wild even if they aren't maintained they way they should be.

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Just deleted my scores from the tracker. Ouch that hurt, 3 of them were top 10. But alas, turns out they were illegit.

Thought I would give an update on doing my cabinet decals. If you recall, I am doing the pin in place without a full breakdown or restore. Tonight after work I was able to get almost all the prep work done for putting on the decals tomorrow.

To begin with, I had to remove all the bolts for the backbox hinges, inside rail guides, top rails, lockdown bar, shifter, and coin door. Some where a little more difficult to remove than others, but I was able to clean them all and gave all the bolt heads a couple of fresh coats of gloss black paint. I must say that removing the top rails was a major pain. I probably spent an hour with a hammer and metal putty knife having to dislodgge the old tape inch-by-inch that holds the rails on. My forearms are sore, and I can barely type this post!

Next step was to sand everything. I have a basic B&D pad sander which I used with 220 grit, and it did a great job. After sanding, I vacuumed all surfaces, then wiped with damp rag, then after it tried I went over every surface twice with a tape style lent brush to pick up any remnant dust that may have been left behind. Finally, I put a coat of gloss black enamel around all the edges.

I still have to clean up one of the rails since the old tape is stuck to it, but it is quite a task, and I'm tired. The only way I could get anywhere with the other one is to use a heat gun to warm up about a 4 inch section at a time then slowly peel the tape away. This didn't work completely, so afterwards I scraped with a putty knife then used citrus solvent to wipe away the majority of the remaining stickiness.

Shots taken before I began stripping down the cabinet.

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Here you can see what the red originally looked like covered by the legs as compared to the faded pink color everywhere else.

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This is the cabinet stripped down and sanded. You can see that my cabinet is the style with the original white laminate with stenciled graphics on top. This stuff is fully stuck to the wood and does not come off without sanding. However, I just sanded the surface smooth and did not worry about getting down to bare wood, since my decals will not allow for any bleed through.
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Cabinet with all the edges, holes, and most of the front painted with gloss black enamel.
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Mr T, my burning question is how did you take the play field bolts out? When you lift the play field up and lock it vertically, it's resting on a bolt that you need to remove. The reason I ask for this detail is because I am still having a PITA time when I have to lift the play field up and lock it vertically. My brackets are bent and they get jammed on the play field rails.

Lots of work still ahead of you. Good luck and keep the patience going. It's gonna look nice. My cabinet is pinked out but this is a project I'm not ready to tackle anytime soon.

Pics of the issue may help

As for the colors, this side has very little fade, it's not a true red and has some pink tones (note the "red" in EATPM in the background) and they have the "3d" accents that are supposed to be like light reflecting off of a shiny surface.

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What I did was lift the playfield by the apron straight up then rested onit the raised metal bar on the inside right. When doing this, all 4 bolts are accessible and not being utilized.

Well, I did it! All in it took me about 12 hours worth of real work (about 3 of those were wasted just removing the side rails from the pin along with getting all the old tape off the inside of them). I'm sure others could do it quicker, but this is the first time that I had disassembled the pin to this level. The decal process was actually not that complicated even though I did it in place with the machine upright and by myself.

Bottom line, I am very please with the results. My only regret is that I maybe could have installed the front decal a cm more to the right, but it is not enough to bother me (this was actually the hardest one to align). Now I'm just waiting for a friend to come over so that I can remove the table from underneath it and actually plug it in to see if I connected everything back correctly. Also, before anyone asks, I added the screw in metal leg supports to prevent the vinyl from bubbling then installed the plastic leg protectors and legs on over those (I like the look of the red protectors - especially now that my graphics are actually red).

Here are pics of each side of the cabinet as I completed them.

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Pics with cabinet mostly reassembled (side rails, bolts, etc.)

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And finally, pics fully assembled (except for glass) with legs back on, but still hovering above the floor.

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Damn sexy man...looks awesome!

nice job on the cab.

That looks GREAT.

Awesome job Mr T, but then I expected nothing less. I've been meaning to give a shout out to you for the keychains you made for my games, you did a great job!

Thanks everyone. Here is a final pic with the game back in its regular spot up and running.

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Okay, now that I have that all done, I am having one issue with the game's back ramp that I've been putting off addressing, but it has seemed to have gotten worse. The issue occurs when it lowers, and it seems like it doesn't know that it is lowered so it keeps trying to lower (i.e. you hear a distinct clicking sound). Attached is a pic of the error screen (doesn't tell you much) along with a link to a video of the problem.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

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Where did you get the red rails / lockdown / legs? Or did you DIY?

DIY. Start here and read down through several posts: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/81#post-3451887