Okay, final price is set for keychains at $7. I am going to charge $3 per keychain + $3 for shipping + $1 for padded envelope (should be able to ship up to 3 keychains at the $4 rate due to small weight difference). All in excluding anything for printing materials (paper & ink), my gas to the post office, and my time, I'm clearing less than $2 per keychain which should cover all these things (well, I'm donating my time - I assure you that I'm not that cheap).

For those of you who PM'd me, I will be sending confirmation today and/or tomorrow along with payment info. Goal will be to have everyone's keychains in mail on January 3rd.

I still have 3 left, so please PM me as soon as you can if you are interested.

Keychains are made and ready to mail. I still have 3 more I can make if anyone is interested.

Keychains.jpg

And here is my keychain in action.

2 more keychain spots left if there are any additional takers. $7 shipped to continental US (I will ship outside US too, but will have to calculate custom rate).

GetawayKeychain.jpg

I was wondering if any of you guys might be able to help me figure out how the cop car mod is hooked up. Mine already had it installed as well as the strobe light mod on top.

The car is tapped into the wiring for the strobe lights, which is tapped into the beacon connector. Not a great looking connection and I'm not going to leave it that way after fixing this issue.

IMG_1872 (resized).JPG

The problem is the cop car doesn't light up like it should. Only the right side of the roof lights come on and stay on steady. I disconnected the car and touched the wires to a 9v battery and all the lights flash as they should, so I know it's not the car. I also tried reversing the connection to the car, disconnecting the strobe lights and tapping it straight to the beacon connector, and always with the same results.

IMG_1869 (resized).JPG

After trying everything I can think of, I'm out of ideas. Can any of you post a pic of the connections for the car? Is it even hooked to the beacon? I can't find any info on this, thanks!

Is this what you are looking for?

https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/203351907-Police-Car-Installation-all-versions-

The board is from rkahr and is used to bypass problems with your game's 5V supply - which if it dips at all, the MPU will reset itself to avoid getting locked up. It works by generating a new clean 5V from a regulator powered by your game's 12V supply. That said, it can only work if your game's 12V supply is good. They aren't 'shit' - but they serve a purpose to give people more reliable play before they need to repair their power driver board. It's a bypass.. your original problem still persists. Maybe Rob can chime in on what's expected when the regulator looses input power. I'm suprised the watchdog isn't kicking in and resetting the game.. which probably means power is dropping and staying down. Clearly you've got lots of different things in that game pulling on your 12V supply too (LED speakers, ColorDMD, etc). You probably have a problem on the 12V system or the MPU board itself or those power connectors.

The board was put in there because the game was probably resetting before.. which means your Power Driver Board or path into the MPU has issues. The stuff you are loading onto it are probably dragging it down even more.

You gotta start troubleshooting by checking the actual voltages and not just shotgunning.

Yeah thanks!

Now I have to figure out why it isn't working.

No,I bought the board when I bought the game. It wasn't purchased by a previous owner. I bought the board along with a ton of other things for it like mods and the battery NVRAM replacement. I didn't have any reset issues when I played it many times before I got around to putting on the board.

Now that the board is off, it hasn't locked up again.

Then u busted it or like I said... have other issues with the 12v side. A working version of the board won't bring down a game with good 12v

It's possible your 5v is good, but 12v is struggling.

dupe

How would I test to make sure the 12V isn't struggling?

What's your opinion on this weak or sometimes dead right lower flipper? The fuses in the upper left board all checkmok with a continuity tester. Could it be a bad coil or bad connection?

For flipper... determine if it's physical. Operate it by hand and check for any resistance besides the spring. It shouldn't drag or feel rough. See how much slop there is in the flipper. It should only move up and down a tad and rotate.. no side to side movement.

Make sure your power wires on the flipper are connected well without any breaks.

Determine if you are getting both high power and low power(hold). Make sure Eos switch isn't engaging to early. It should engage when the flipper is at the last 1/8-1/4 inch of travel. You can bypass the eos usually to eliminate it as a cause.

For 12v goto pinwiki and check the test points for the driver board and ensure your 12v isn't dropping.

You can start by simply unplugging your 12v mods and make sure none of them are shorting or pulling the board down

I had intermittent right flipper issues on mine as well, after reading through this whole thread I found a post where someone mentioned the new flipper button eos switch blades were longer than the originals and making contact with the shooter coil plunger. Sure enough, that was the issue with mine. A prior owner had replaced the flipper button eos switches and they were too long. Usually during multi-ball is when the flippers would act up because as the machine is kicking out balls and I was hitting the flippers, the shooter coil plunger would make contact with the depressed switch blades and cause various weak/dead right flippers.

One of my switch blades was obviously bent out of shape, yours looks like it has a slight bend as well indicating there could be some contact going on. The way I checked for clearance after straightening out the switch blade was to shine a flashlight down between the apron/cab (glass and machine off of course), took a small screwdriver and pushed the shooter coil plunger in while holding the right flipper button in (this would be a lot easier with the apron off, but I had just enough space to do this step). They made contact and that's all it takes to have problems. I re-mounted the switch down to where the longest blade just covered the flipper button center, plus I wrapped it with electrical tape just for a little extra protection. No problems since.

Don't know for sure if that's your issue, but it can't hurt to check.

This is your pic, see how that one switch blade is slightly bent?

bentswitch (resized).jpg

All great suggestions and will work on it some tonight and the coming days.

Hell yes. Not only has it not locked up a single time but I think my tech bud and I have solved the right flipper issue.

We tested the coils and switches. They tested fine and everything moved freely as it should without obstructions or restrictions. I moved the flipper button switched a little lower than they were just in case of anything touching.

The real issue I think was some corrosion on the fuse for J904 (Lower right flipper)

Once I removed the fuse and replaced it, BOOM, flipper kicking ass and taking names a gain. The fuses all seem to have various degrees of corrosion or issues so even if no problems are present after this one replacement, I'm going to replace them all.

But man, it's playing like it should without errors or issues and it's about damn time.

IMG_9150 (resized).JPG

IMG_9149 (resized).JPG

Probably original fuses by the looks. Yup replace them all........one at a time.

Well, I already set my new high score in 2017 - 456,835,890! Full disclosure, I have pretty much default settings except I've moved the left drain post to the easiest position, play 5 balls, and free ball is set to 75 million (makes it easier for everyone to play). Even so, it is fun getting so far in the game.

IMG_0501.JPG

In posting my score, this begs the question if people really score in the billions on this game? High score is 6+ billion on 3 balls. My machine was malfunctioning electrically when I first got it and I had scores in the billions, but I find it really hard that something like this is legit. Maybe I'm just a skeptical newbie, but thought I would ask the community what they thought.

Those are unrealistic scores. In a conventional setup... scores above 500million would be great games. Anything over a billion I'd give a scrutinous eye to who and how. Usually anything over 200 million is great game. Most scores should be 30-100million unless you get the Super Jackpot.

Hmmmm... 6+ billion seems a little far fetched but i guess you never know.

Yep. My high score is around 460 million on 3 ball and i was totally killing it !!!

yeah, i'd say you need to investigate.

My scores are typically in the 30-100 million range. I am talking about all the high scores posted on Pinside for Getaway. Not sure if anything can be done to verify these or not. I just wish/hope these were all accurate so that one could actually measure themselves score wise against the rest of the community.

oh, i see. i thought you were the one scoring 6 billion.

i agree. when i felt like i had a good game, it was a couple hundred million. a jackpot or two; extra ball or two. not a world record or anything. i was on L5, default scoring. extra ball instead of extra credit. points for special.

it's like anything else. i used to golf a lot and got the shits of people telling me what they shoot, then going out and playing with them watching them cheat for 18 holes.

i'd say it's safe to assume no two pins are setup the same on here, so you'll never be able to really compare scores, unfortunately. it's not really cheating, but there's a million ways to setup the scoring, etc.

My high score is just 83M. I know I suck at pinball but I want to try and get high scores with realistic settings, like ones that the game would be set for in the wild. I play three balls, with A.1.15 Special set to Extra Ball. Which MRI HS me to another related question; How can I get better? What am I missing? I just joined a league so I can get more exposure to different games but I know I will be at the bottom of the league in scoring but I think I'm gonna have fun playing.

practice. watch papa videos on youtube.

obviously i can't find one for HS2 with tutorial. gameplay vids are okay, but i really like the ones where they talk about what they're doing. tournament videos with commentary are cool, too.

"Bro, do you even Pinball?" has a pair of episodes on HS2 with brief tutorials on YouTube if you search. I think one has dmd camera issues which hurts though. Anyway, not PAPA level tutorials so I'm not sure if they'll help with scoring much, but IMO worth watching for all their games/episodes if you haven't. I love their videos.

This is one of the earliest pinball machines I ever got to play, Haunted House was first around 1986 or so at a little deli, but then we moved and the local mall had an arcade - High Speed was there - this would have been 86-88. Awesome times. They also had Whirlwind, and later got NBA Fastbreak, JunkYard and I'm not sure what else off hand. It's long been closed, and now the area has been bulldozed over and occupied by a grocery store.

I'd like to get it in my collection at some point and chase after some high scores.

Scores and pinside top ratings are two features of the site you should simply forgetbthry exist. Neither mean anything

Ditto to this, helped me.

The first one was with my game, had a red filter on the DMD that didn't show well with the camera. That was HS2 number one. On my third one now.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-the-getaway-stoplight-mod

I just installed indypinhead's stoplight mod. Thumbs up!

20170103_220751 (resized).jpg

I was thinking that the red beacon dome attaches to the top of the Getaway like the F14 with small carriage bolts, but I don't see 3 holes that align with the dome... also, there are 2 holes just outside of the routed-out area for the beacon that look like they had bolts in them.

Does someone have a picture of where/how the beacon is attached that you could share?

Once again proving... you can NEVER take enough pictures prior to disassembly.

Mac

I have a few pics that may or may not help you because these were to show someone else how my topper was installed...

The beacon is attached from the underside, inside the back box with wing nuts.

topper (resized).jpg

topper 2 (resized).jpg

Yes, you loosen the wingnuts from inside the backbox and then you can lift and rotate the metal tabs on top that secure the beacon.

I just replaced the "Opto made loop" optos on my turbocharger, and afterwards realized that my scores > 1 billion were bogus. If this switch is out then the game can't count loops and you'll get multiple loops each time you hit the supercharger. The scores rack up fast when you get 5m, 10m, 15m in quick succession. Then hit it again for 20m, 25m, 30m. If you can nail the shot 6 times in a row (which pretty much runs down the supercharger time limit) and you're scoring 80m, 85m, 90m and you've scored 855m total in supercharger mode.

I think the daughterboard helps with reset issue if you have minor voltage problems. But I think it exacerbates the issue if you have major problems. It sounds like you need to replace caps and BR at power board, and consider putting in one of these bad boys while you're at it so you can tweek your 5V:

http://www.ezsbc.com/index.php/psu5.html#.WG5rQlMrJFE

The ribbon cable thing sounds like you had a cable misaligned, I've done that before with those results.

Perfect... Thanks!

I keep seeing checkered flag flipper bat mod ads at the bottom of these pages. Not to disparage anyone who has them on their pin, but Getaway is not a racing themed game IMHO. Rather, it is a street driving/police chase game, so not sure how checkered flag works with the theme. However, this does beg the question of what bat mod would match the theme? Personally, I'm good with white bats and red bands (I do have a yellow on top right bat).

Agreed. They would work with Nascar, but not here. There is a certain member on this board that feels that pins should only be tastefully and minimally upgraded. I think white bats and and red rubbers are fine. Maybe red bats and black rubbers as an alternative?

There's more than 1 member that feels that way and personally I like minimal, tastefully done mods but modding is extremely subjective, do what makes you happy just realize when you try to sell your pin (if you ever do) it may limit the market or have a negative impact on the value. As for the flippers, black rubber has been used on the flippers, and the legs could have been either black legs or chrome legs... my pin came with black legs that I switched out to the chrome, either way it looks good.

getaway flyer (resized).jpg

Well I finally got Beatmasters shifter plate light up wired up along with my Leg Light-Ups. I had to drill a small hole in the metal backing plate to run a small power connector through to the inside of the cab but now I can disconnect the power wire for his mod without taking the assembly apart. That wire has a 3 pin Molex connector on the other end that plugs into a Y splitter. Then I cut off the connector from a 12v wall wort, put a 3 pin Molex on that so now I plug the wall wort into the 110v service outlet and can power the shifter light up and my Leg Light-Ups at the same time with no extra strain on the game power board. Now I just have to find time to put everything on.

IMGA0886[1] (resized).JPG

IMGA0887[2] (resized).JPG

IMGA0888[1] (resized).JPG

IMGA0889[1] (resized).JPG

Thanks for the reference photo. I've always wondered what a NIB Getaway would have looked like. This photo looks like the prototype, as the rpm decals are not on the inserts. I wonder if there are any new production pics out there to see as a reference to stock.

Yes, the front end decal was different too. I'm not saying they don't exist but I've never seen one with the updated machine.

There are plenty of purists in pinball, and I get that. There is beauty and value to keeping something original and working/playing with it as it was originally designed. However, there are also those who like to customize to differentiate, cater to their own taste, and "improve" upon the original design. Both are valid approaches and up to the owner what they would like to do.

Not 100% the same, but just look at cars. Classic cars with matching serials and restored to look like they did when they came off the assembly line can be beautiful and extremely desirable & valuable. Conversely, upgrade an engine, custom interior, custom paint, new wheels, etc. on the right car, and you can also have a uniquely desirable and valuable vehicle as well. Like cars, it appears that pinball machines can reflect some of the creativeness and artistry of their owners, so I say to everyone do whatever you like to your machine even though some will love it, some will hate it, and many will just be indifferent.

Sure, trick things up too much or do something tacky, and you've just greatly limited your market for new buyers (kind of like the house I looked at one time that had electric blue counter tops in the kitchen - the owner loved them but couldn't figure out why his house had been on the marked for nearly two years without an offer). However, if you do things in such a way that you can revert back, or if you just don't care and plan on letting your beneficiaries deal with it after you are gone, then I say go for it.

Interesting how the big pic shows white bats with black rubbers, but the traffic light exploded pic shows a white bat with a red rubber. Maybe the prototype had black rubbers and the production run switched to red?