OK. You guys and your slang.

Righto mate, i've had a suss and a darn good squiz and i reckon it to be almost bang on 8mm diameter rod at an overall length of 33mm (to the middle of the rounded off tip). Don't think it will matter too much how rounded it is as long as the tip isn't squared off it will work fine. If you can't find anything to suit i might just have some rod that size diameter BUT the 64 million dollar question is....."Where did i bloody put it? " Sorry about the metric measurements mate

Speak ENGLISH man. Well low and behold it decided to come back home, I guess it just wanted a little vaca. Thanks for all your trouble Paul. Beatmasters shooter plate light up and my Leg Light-Ups are ready now to go on the game, It'll have to wait till this evening but I'll take a crappy picture when everything is on and post a picture or 3. They are all red.

I used to work w/ an Aussie... he'd say to me: hey mate fetch me that ring spanner! and I'd be like what?!? Lol you mean that wrench? Speak American damn it! Then he'd call me a mole or some other lame type insult lol good times

I think I am going to go ahead and buy 10 of the square keychains since I need to place an Amazon order.

PM me if you are interested in one for $5 + postage (I'll have to figure cheapest way to mail). If I can get 4 or 5 to commit then I can lower the price a buck. Also, if you have more than one pin and are interested then let me know I can work up some mockups then mail together.

Clear Acrylic
1 3/8" x 1 3/8" photo size
I will have photo showing on both front and back (or I can do something else on back if someone has a good idea)
keychain.jpg

Did you ever figure this out? I don't have much to offer, and while probably not the issue, didn't you rewire the power supply recently? Are you positive all of the connections are still good and nothing came loose?

Have any of you guys purchased/installed a PIN2DMD? I don't want to drop $400 for a ColorDMD, but tempted to go for color at around $250. I know that ColorDMD already has fully colorized that I would have to invest who knows how many hours to replicate on PIN2DMD, but I'm always up for learning something new.

Hey guys, if anyone needs internal parts for the SusoHapp shifter here's the part numbers. Ryan I sent you a full email.

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I bought a complete ribbon set. It should arrive soon so we'll see if that helps.

Thanks Paul. I haven't got it yet but I'll keep a look out.

Not to be discouraging, but I have a hard time believing ribbon cable would just go bad if you had not been messing with it. Been in PC business since the 80's, and can't remember ever having a ribbon cable go bad that wasn't DOA or jacked from mishandling. However, I also don't recall ever having to work with 25 year old cables either, so I suppose it is possible they decayed.

Did you check over the header pins on J210 like Grumpy suggested. I reviewed the comments i made and realised i mentioned the small ribbon cable being the CPU power connector which of course it isn't. If the new ribbon cable set doesn't fix the issue it's not a waste of money. Those cables DO go bad over time and a lot of machines still have the originals in place. On my recent JD project i had to replace half of the RC's as the originals were stuffed. Before the new set turns up, try disconnecting ALL ribbon cables to the CPU and power up. If it still does the same thing then it quite likely is J210 cause if it was a chip issue i don't think it would boot initially, it would just sit and tater (As in act like a spud and do bugger all ) (Another one for you MP )

I hope I sent it to the right address.

Thanks for your thoughts bud. Knowing my luck, it's not as simple as a ribbon gone bad.

I'll check the header pins tomorrow if I have time. Thanks bud

You didn't use Pinside mail? I'm PM you.

You know with that shifter lever in the down position all the time that causes one of the 2 switches inside to be on all the time. That can't be good for the game.

No your email address cuz I just forwarded all the info they sent me.

Oh it's not down all the time. It rests in neutral but if it's in down, its weight makes it want to stay down unless I manually put it back into neutral

Just a credit dot.

I have 2 takers thus far, which leaves me with 7 more openings (1 for me in the order of 10, of course). I'm not looking to make money on this deal, rather, to just cover my expenses. If I can get 5 more commits (can be a Getaway or something else if you like) then I will set the price to $3 + shipping (envelope + stamp: still trying to figure out cheapest way for this).

I'd be in but I have all keyless locks.....no kids.

I also have a keyless lock, but I already ordered one from the Aussie. I plan to use it as my car key ring.

The other day, I went to an arcade/gaming/comic book store. It's called Kidforce Collectibles in Berea, Ohio. They have like 15 games. I played most of them. I had to play the Getaway they had to see how it played vs. mine. It must have had the L2 chip in it where mine has the L5, because the guy playing it got to Secret Mania.

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Secret Mania is in L5, have to move the shifter up and down when you see 3 cops at the donut heaven.

Got it. But when you go there, don't you feel like you're cheating, since Secret Mania is not part of the standard rule set?

They shipped today. Brett included the other key ring at no charge.

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Not sure that finding an Easter Egg is cheating as long as you are playing just for fun (don't know if this still occurs on Tourney mode or not). Also, I've seen and heard many comment how it is not worth it at 500K per event vs. taking the extra risk of draining the ball (or just slow playing it to the point that you don't really earn much).

Those look cool, and gives me an idea for mine - customized initials on the DMD. I'll have to see if I can find/create a full backbox graphic to make this happen.

As stated before, I have no intention of stealing Brett's idea or trying to sell these in mass to compete against him. I wanted to make my own but had to buy a minimum of 10 blank keychains, so I thought I would share with others instead of letting them just sit around. I have no intention to take mine outside of this thread, nor offer any more if/when I move the 7 left that are not spoken for yet.

seems you could apply that logic to a nudy bar.

Okay, here is my new design. This was created fully with photos that I took of my Getaway. Still will have to play with personalization.

keychain_sqr.png

Holy shit guys. So the ribbons came in today. Before I swapped them all I decided to look at J210 again like y'all said. I noticed this device that I bought the I think is supposed to help with resets:

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Well I took it off and inserted the connector on the J210 pin. I booted her up and no freezing!!!! I played a dozen games and no freezing!!!

Anyone have a clue why this piece of tech was totally messing my Getaway up?

Ok so that looks promising. So I thought well what the hell, I'll just go ahead and replace the ribbons since I bought them.

I replaced each one making sure the red line was identical on the new ribbons. I boots her up and shit, the DMD was scrambled, the speakers began to hum, only the speaker lights and the mini DMD were powered. Oh shit I said. I just had to fuck with it. So I replaced the new ribbons for the old one and the game boots up and plays wonderfully.

One of these four ribbons is not like the other three. Maybe Marco sent me the wrong long one? That connector is in black while the rest are beige.

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To start with, I've always wondered what those devices are for as I've not once had a reset issue with my Getaway. So, I guess they are good for screwing up your pin.

Next, I bought my replacement cables from Pinball Life (the old ones worked, but we're so nasty I hated touching since they turned my hands black). I too freaked out when I had very similar issue to what you are explaining. My issue ended up being that I was off one row on the pins with the new connector on one of the cables. This is fairly easy to do since the boards don't have guides. I would suggest you replace one at a time ensuring pin 1 is in correct location each time and 100% positive that all ribbon cable is placed correctly on both rows. Test after each and see what happens.

Also, cable connectors come in all colors and typically don't signify anything (there are some exceptions to this, but pin outs are also different). I assume just depends upon cable maker and what they have access to

Those are the wpc daughter boards that "suppose" to fix wpc resets. They sell them at the bottom of this page. After time the caps on your driver board go bad and momentary drop below 5 volts on the mpu causing a reset. Those things are peices of shit. I bought one for my johnney mnenomic and boooooyyyyyy was that game pissed off. Said screw it had my buddy rebuild the driver board with new caps bridge and stuff for 60 bucks! I was like why did i send 30 bucks on this peice of crap

I'm glad you got it going again, I didn't notice you had one of those daughterboards installed... I have no experience with them but if you weren't having reset issues you probably didn't need it so keep it off the pin.

As mentioned, make sure the cables are on the right pins, it will scramble if it's off a row and can be difficult to see if it's on correctly. I have 3 WPC Dot Matrix Display Controller High Voltage Boards and when I switched one out it scrambled my display nothing a restart didn't fix but on some of the newer ones they have dip switches that need to be set a certain way.

IMO, I like the other (stock) photo better but I'm not in on this as I have the original key chain that came with the pin.

I will offer it both ways. Simple enough since I am only making a handful.

FYI, I found a shifter assembly in a parts thread if anyone needs one. Guy is asking $125.

Okay, my keychain designs are finalized, and I have 3 options with choice of front and back (can be the same or different).

Option 1 (BGO): Backglass Only
Option 2 (SPW): Backglass + Speaker Panel with Williams DMD
Option 3 (DMD): Backglass + Speaker Panel with Custom display (I will make this whatever you want)

If interested please PM me with selections for BOTH front and back (they can be the same or different).

For example: Front = SPW, Back = DMD (ABC)

As a reminder, I have 7 left available and current price is set at $5 + shipping (will figure this out soon). However, I will lower price with more commitments. FYI, SPW and DMD are created from real photos of my backbox (minus the custom DMD, of course).

Option 1 (BGO): Backglass Only
KC_BGO.jpg

Option 2 (SPW): Backglass + Speaker Panel with Williams DMD
KC_SPW.jpg

Option 3 (DMD): Backglass + Speaker Panel with Custom DMD (I will make this whatever you want - well, no vulgarities please)
KC_DMD.jpg

Ok so now that I solved the freezing issue, I still have this weak or dead lower right flipper. Sometimes it'll act right. Sometimes it's weak. And he'll, sometimes it's completely dead. I can press the right button and only the upper flipper responds, the lowerone just sits there like dead weight.

Any ideas? I've included a bunch of photos.

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Grinder, I am by far and away not the expert on this subject but hopefully someone with more knowledge can chime in. But to me it looks like those solder connections are pretty weak. I would consider cleaning them up but by cutting and retinning and making those three on the coil fresh again. And also while the solder gun is out, reflow solder on those other board connections. Could be cold solder joints. Looks like someone has been in there one other time and made sloppy connections. Again I'm no expert but I reflow a lighting board pin on an intermittent lamp issue and it works now.

You have the wrong cabinet switch in there. They need to be gold plated low current switches.

I'll try and throw more solder on there.

Wow no kidding. I bought new flipper rebuild kits but maybe I bought the wrong type. Can you link me to a set that I need?

It's weird though that the left flipper and upper flipper seem to be fine. Is it because the right flipper is tied to two flippers?

Grinder, I am so ashamed at your flipper assemblies. Have to take the time and clean up the bottom just like you chromed everything on the top. This is what your flipper assemblies should look like.

These were just rebuilt for my most recent HS2.

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Well in my defense, I didn't do them. A local bud who put the new decals on did them along with other repairs like replacing all target foam while he had it in his shop.

Just busting your chops since I know how you like your games so perfect. Going through all the coils and assemblies doesn't take long, and they look so nice with the correct coil wrappers and colors. I print out my own.

5 are spoken for, 5 left if anyone is interested.

4 keychains left

Well yours does look pretty clean.

That leaf switch looks ok, or at least it's similar to mine. Make sure all solder connections are solid and all wires are attached correctly.

The flippers connect into the Fliptronic Board in the Back Box, look there... the 3 wires are, Orange/Green, Blue/Purple and Blue/Yellow

On the fliptroic board, connections J902 (Orange/green wire and pins plus Blue/purple wire and pin and molex connector) & J907 (blue/yellow wire, pin and molex connector).

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3 keychains left

Marco's web site.
This is what you have now.
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Switch - flipper dual contact cabinet - heavy duty
#SW-1010A-13

Williams / Bally dual contact flipper pushbutton cabinet switch used on many pinball machine flipper systems.

Makes an excellent replacement for all brands of electromechanical games.

Has 2 sets of normally open heavy duty tungsten contact points. For lighter duty use SW-1A-192.

Reference:
SW-1010A-13

And this is what you need.

(zoom)

Switch - flipper double & cable assy
#A-15060

Williams double flipper switch and cable assembly.

Reference:
A-15060
SW-1010A-13

Weight: 0.8 oz

NOT CURRENTLY AVAILABLE. Listed for reference.