It would seem with the high production run on The Getaway there could have been several types of art work for the cabinet, the most common would be the vinyl applied to the wood then screen printed.

It's all up to you chap If you want a quicker process and not too finicky about the final result then do it the less anal way. If you're like me and want it done right the first time (fully anal) then i would advise bare wood, primer, sand smooth, more primer, get a NICE finish, FULL black top coat everywhere, sand back, apply more black and make sure there is no boogies in the final coat, THEN apply the decals.

The early version with the headlights on the front of the cabinet looks pretty neat.

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Rookie move this afternoon: Had a good game going. In Red Line Mania and I must have got too excited about it and tilted on on ball 3 and a few extra balls. Game over. So my question is; what is a good average tilt setting? Is it X amount of inches gap? Where should I set it? Happy Thanksgivng, Pinheads!

Bling is looking good!!

At first I wasn't sure about the green starter led but I mean there's already so much red that I kind of like the green contrast. Green means GO!

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erretime i come 'round yo city; bling, bling.

Man that's lookin sharp, love that chrome coin door. You gonna cut around those cab protectors to play it safe?

So, do you just score the decal around cab protectors or cut through the decal?

Do any of you guys use cab protectors around the buttons? If so, what kind?

Cut around the cab protectors? Why?

Those are the correct protectors for decals so it shouldn't be an issue like the plastic protectors.

Even your flipper buttons are chromed! How did you get the legs and rails so shiny and polished?

If I do something, I do it big and it's usually over the top. I had the supercharger and all the ball guides chromed too!

For the chroming, I used Mike Chestnut until his passing and then Chris Royalty finished the job for him.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballplatingcom-chrome-brass-black-nickel-powder-coating/page/4#post-3463241

Yes.

Well of course you don't have to but like I said "just to play it safe".

That was an either or question, not yes or no. Which is correct: score or cut through the decal? I assume the idea is that if the protectors do move, the vinyl will not wrinkle at the keg support joints. I guess a full cut seems to make more sense than just scoring, but I'm a complete newbie on this one and don't want to assume.

Really?, you know that the stainless steel ball guides can be polished to a mirror finish don't you?
I'm not criticizing, just wondering!

I see, cut. Cut and remove or just cut and leave in place, your choice.

I'm not sure this will help but my Elvira (as many of them did) had issues with the decals wrinkling around the legs and the previous owner removed the vinyl around the legs, this is a bit more than Stang is recommending but you get the idea... some day I'll get around to repairing this but the graphics are just too nice to remove and replace the OG decals (IMHO OG is always better).

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Wow really, well he did that before Stern came out with their solution but man that's still pretty extreme. If I were you I'd put the Stern ones on and then get the black plastic ones on OVER the smaller ones. The plastic ones will not contact the decals and they'll hide the cut decals. Your welcome.

Wait, what, I'm confused? This was to show Mr T what can happen to decals if proper measures are not taken; however, EATPM is notorious for the decal wrinkling and this isn't that bad from what I've seen. Would I have done this to my pin... it's hard to say without knowing the condition but the colors are just about perfect with no fading so replacement decals are out of the question. Yes, at some point I'll fill and paint (after I get my CPR PF to make this a restoration pin) but I'm not sure what you mean about Stern's solution. What did Stern do for a Bally a pin? Or is there something else I should do?

Plus you've got glow-in-the-dark ink on that pin, would not want to lose that.

I did not know that. Very cool !

Or at least UV reactive on the decals. I know there are glow-in-the-dark features on playfield that charge well with UV light. My friend has one, and anything green glows even after he turns the pin off. He's added UV LEDs in strategic places, and it really adds to the experience with all the glowing green (he also has the Titan UV rings that look great).

This is a fact but that's not the case on the cabinet decals

He has shown me his with UV lighting in the room, and the green does react on the cab in her eyes and other spots. Maybe does not glow, but definately reacts to black light. His is original cab artwork.

Nice, well maybe I'll just have to put some black lights in the game room!

A couple of questions (one is a repeat, but did not receive a response):

1) Does anyone use cabinet protectors around their flipper buttons, if so which ones? If not, do you wish you had or do new decals hold up well when pin is home machine?
2).As part of the re-decal process, what adhesive do you use when re-installing top rails? Also, what process do you use to ensure the gap is correct for the playfield glass?

On newer Stern games they use the small metal or plastic cab protectors under the legs so the legs stand off the cab thus preventing wrinkles. Those protectors can be bought at Marco or Pinballlife and be put on any game, Williams, Bally, JJP etc. They are held in place with 2 small screws, then the bigger plastic ones go over those which will hide the big cut outs on the cab decals then the legs bolt on over those.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0599-00

Right, sorry, I thought you were talking about some other fix. Thanks

All good.

What did you do for your pin today? Me? I added Comet slow blinks to the translight behind the helicopters, to simulate to the navigation lights. Also got some new pop bumper caps and some red Chrystal 5 LED bulbs under them.

Shes coming home today!!

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Very nice. It's like a Getaway LE!

where's the mountain? come on, man.

I will say this I picked up one of these at an auction but there were no keys....got it home and the connectors on the Power Driver Board had fried the board. Typical cabinet fade...threw it up on CL for a quick sale as all it needs is a new Power Driver Board $300. Was asking $1500 for it as I felt it was a fair price...had a few tire kickers offer $1k for it but kicked them to the curb as I slowly began to clean it and bring it back to life. Gotta tell you....I've fallen in love with this pinball machine. Super Fun pinball machine one of the best I've ever played. I'll be taking the ad down and completely restoring this machine with new decals, playfield and everything. LOVE IT! GREAT PIN!

Welcome to the club. I originally played one a few years ago and knew then I had to have one.

Welcome!

Just played today... but I have been working on some custom plastics and flasher mods too

Oh I'd love one! Got one to sell me?

Going to ass the apron magnet mod and lit speaker panel mod when they are available

Hmm.... dont you think that might hurt ?

Ha! Not going to change it. No pain no gain

In my limited collection I've got a Williams Getaway and Slugfest and a Stern Mustang. My friends all prefer the older Williams machines over the newer Stern and the Getaway gets the most play of any of them. There's just something about this machine that's so damn fun to play.

Yes, it's the simple rules that are easy to understand, coupled with good theme music, good call outs, excellent flow and a great light show. It's a great game to just play and have fun with, sure some hard core pin heads think it's too easy but there is nothing wrong with mindless pinball fun, especially for newer players.

Yup!!!

Hi all,
picking mine up tomorrow.
Better late than never, right?

Hey another one. Welcome.

Superbee, I know you just went through some back ramp repairs, so I wanted to learn from your experience. I need to replace the ramp flap on my back ramp, so I need to somehow get to in order to remove, repair, and replace it. Can you please give me some pointers on what I have to do to?

Well i completely rebuilt the underside mechs while i had the playfield out which made it a lot easier but as far as the ramp itself. Im pretty sure in order to replace the ramp flap, the ramp will need to come out. Im pretty sure from memory that in order to do that you are going to have to remove some of the playfield hardware including the supercharger. I just dont think that you will be able to do it any other way but it really not all that hard. Just take lots of photos after removing each piece and document what you removed first to last and then reverse the steps when putting it back together.

Welcome to the club !!