(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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There are 9410 posts in this topic. You are on page 77 of 189.
#3801 2 years ago

So, while I am stuck without a plunger, I thought I would at least share my latest mods.

1. Replaced my 4 ohm woofer with 8 ohm, completely rewired speakers, added 80 ohm inverter and L-pad. For those of you who have not done this, it is great as I can now actually hear/feel the bass tones in the game. BTW, the L-pad was a must in order to manually balance the sound the way that was best for my ears.

2. Finished my homemade SC ramp sign and added green frosted LED in place of yellow. I like it much better as it catches my attention more during game play. Thought I would post a pick for others to consider.

3. Followed the guide in this forum and made my own custom LED lit flipper buttons. I used wedge sockets, various Matrix cables, and double red flex heads from Comet Pinball to do the job. Also, wired into start switch so they flash when pin is not in play mode and solid when it is. I'm trying various things (mainly black electrical tape) to help with the apron bleed through, but overall does not seem to be bad. Also, if you do this mod be aware that the spacing is very tight on the plunger side.

4. Finally, I wanted to "pop" the fluorescent orange a little more, so I installed some UV lighting upgrades. I added two Comet UV spotlight bulbs (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6leduv.htm) to the back section to light up the back ramp and left loop (I previously had white bulbs installed here), I already had a 3 LED strip under my SC sign, and replaced my white frosted 7 LED strip under the apron with a 7 LED UV strip. The main upgrade I did was to add 2 UV spots to the sling gauges. This really makes the orange in center area glow. In my first pic, I have the apron UV lit, but not the 2 spots. In the second pic, I have the spots lit and you can see the difference it makes with the oranges with the Getaway logo, 1st-5th gears, and the tachometer. I'm sure that the UV effect is not for everyone, but I thought I would share in case anyone had ever wondered about it.

5. Since I now had a extra LED strip that I didn't know what to do with, I put it in the GI just behind the lower left targets. Wow, it really lights up the plastic (see the same photo where I have the UV spots - bottom left speed limit sign). Now I am thinking about buying a few more of the Matrix frosted white LED strips to light up the other dark spots in green plastics lit by GI.

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#3802 2 years ago

Has anyone of you equipped your Getaway with the fluorescent plastc set that is available....? If yes, do you like the addon effect, does it up the coolness further ? If anyone could give an opinion as well as show off some photos It will much appreciated. I might buy a set.

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/the-getaway/7107/fluortector-set-for-the-getaway

Thanks
Matt

#3803 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, while I am stuck without a plunger, I thought I would at least share my latest mods.
1. Replaced my 40 ohm woofer with 80 ohm, completely rewired speakers, added 80 ohm inverter and L-pad. For those of you who have not done this, it is great as I can now actually hear/feel the bass tones in the game. BTW, the L-pad was a must in order to manually balance the sound the way that was best for my ears.
2. Finished my homemade SC ramp sign and added green frosted LED in place of yellow. I like it much better as it catches my attention more during game play. Thought I would post a pick for others to consider.
3. Followed the guide in this forum and made my own custom LED lit flipper buttons. I used wedge sockets, various Matrix cables, and double red flex heads from Comet Pinball to do the job. Also, wired into start switch so they flash when pin is not in play mode and solid when it is. I'm trying various things (mainly black electrical tape) to help with the apron bleed through, but overall does not seem to be bad. Also, if you do this mod be aware that the spacing is very tight on the plunger side.
4. Finally, I wanted to "pop" the fluorescent orange a little more, so I installed some UV lighting upgrades. I added two Comet UV spotlight bulbs (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6leduv.htm) to the back section to light up the back ramp and left loop (I previously had white bulbs installed here), I already had a 3 LED strip under my SC sign, and replaced my white frosted 7 LED strip under the apron with a 7 LED UV strip. The main upgrade I did was to add 2 UV spots to the sling gauges. This really makes the orange in center area glow. In my first pic, I have the apron UV lit, but not the 2 spots. In the second pic, I have the spots lit and you can see the difference it makes with the oranges with the Getaway logo, 1st-5th gears, and the tachometer. I'm sure that the UV effect is not for everyone, but I thought I would share in case anyone had ever wondered about it.
5. Since I now had a extra LED strip that I didn't know what to do with, I put it in the GI just behind the lower left targets. Wow, it really lights up the plastic (see the same photo where I have the UV spots - bottom left speed limit sign). Now I am thinking about buying a few more of the Matrix frosted white LED strips to light up the other dark spots in green plastics lit by GI.

That's a lot of lights; how did you decide how to tap into your GI's?

On another note, have you done any tests on your plunger? I'm very curious on what the issue is so we can get you up and running and post some resolution for anyone else running into a similar problem. Please keep us advised, good luck Mr T.

#3804 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Quick 5 mins to look and I'm not sure this will help you but the plunger kicker (solenoid 12) connects to your High Current Driver Board (the little board you mentioned in an earlier post) from (J2) and out via (J1) to the Power Driver Board (J127) pin 1 Brown-Black wire (this also connects to the Eject hole so test that too to see if it's working) and pin 4 Brown-Yellow wire, test to see if you have anything from PDB (J127 pins 1 & 4) if you do then check the HCDB (J2 pins 1&5)... ref manual page 3-7.

FYI, The eject hole test works. The only other thing in the test not working is the lower diverter test, but I don't know what that is (I don't recall this test ever doing anything). Upper diverter works fine (gate that routes ball to either SC or hairpin).

#3805 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

That's a lot of lights; how did you decide how to tap into your GI's?
On another note, have you done any tests on your plunger? I'm very curious on what the issue is so we can get you up and running and post some resolution for anyone else running into a similar problem. Please keep us advised, good luck Mr T.

For GI taps, I used the bayonet socket to matrix connector under the plastics for the LED strip, for the back floods, I again used matrix cables to Y-splitter and clipped onto GI bulb towards back, and similar on slings I just used Y-splitter to link into where I had already used matrix post LEDs for my sling gauges. Also, just used extension and Matrix clips for apron light. I am assuming since running LED should not have any load issues, but when I add them all up it is an additional 9 bulbs (counting a strip as a bulb too) to the GI with 3 or 4 more I want to add.

#3806 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, The eject hole test works. The only other thing in the test not working is the lower diverter test, but I don't know what that is (I don't recall this test ever doing anything). Upper diverter works fine (gate that routes ball to either SC or hairpin).

So does the plunger work in the tests?

#3807 2 years ago
Quoted from Homepin:

For those that want to support or repair a broken back plastic for the SC entrance ramp, (and don't want to make it themselves), these are available in laser cut stainless steel from Pinball Life:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4328

Look at you with your fancy-pants laser cut metal parts. You think you're better than me?

All in gest, of course. This is a great option and I really dig Pinball Life. I was ready to spring for them, but had the materials I needed to create my own and wanted to burn some time. If/when I ever brake my new one, it will be replaced with the parts you highlighted.

#3808 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

So does the plunger work in the tests?

No, it does not. Nor does it register any voltage on the coil leads when test is firing. With the advice provided, I need to determine if PDB is generating the power, and if it is then where the continuity break is.

#3809 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I need to determine if PDB is generating the power

If the PDB wasn't generating power then you would have 7 coils not working.

#3810 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No, it does not. Nor does it register any voltage on the coil leads when test is firing. With the advice provided, I need to determine if PDB is generating the power, and if it is then where the continuity break is.

So pin 1 & 4 J127 have power form the PDB, did you test the power from HCDB pins 1&5?

#3811 2 years ago

Stupid question; if I put a flasher bulb in the pop bumper socket, will it flash on when hit? Thinking no without a rewire of the circuits. Thinking out loud but would like to see the pop bumpers light when hit instead of always on. Any way to do this? Curious.

#3812 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Stupid question; if I put a flasher bulb in the pop bumper socket, will it flash on when hit? Thinking no without a rewire of the circuits. Thinking out loud but would like to see the pop bumpers light when hit instead of always on. Any way to do this? Curious.

The PB lamps run on the 6.3V rail - flashers are 12V being fed with 18V

They won't light up very well, if at all.

Yes, you could rewire the sockets but a lot of work.

#3813 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Stupid question; if I put a flasher bulb in the pop bumper socket, will it flash on when hit? Thinking no without a rewire of the circuits. Thinking out loud but would like to see the pop bumpers light when hit instead of always on. Any way to do this? Curious.

No, they are different bulb types

#3814 2 years ago

Geez, now I really have issues. Been turning off and on trying different voltage tests and I accidentally arced something. Turned on just now and heard a buzz. Realized top pop number was engaged (ie coil firing) and not stopping. I smelled burning from the pop bumper after a couple of seconds so turned pin off immediately. Top jet shares J107-2 and is on J127-6 with plunger on J127-4.

So, the positive, I think, I now know that the plunger (Solenoid 12) and the top pop bumper (Sol 13) correspond to Transistors Q52 and Q50, respectively. When I look very closely, all of the transistors are a dark black with legible lettering on them. However, when I look at Q50 and Q52 they are more grayish and I cannot make out the lettering on them, which I guess is bad. Probably plunger stuck open and top pop stuck closed.

I assume my question now is, how do I get this board fixed, as I do not have the knowledge/tools to do the job or to check any other directly related components. I can buy a replacement PDB, but don't want to fork out $300 if I don't have to.

#3815 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, while I am stuck without a plunger, I thought I would at least share my latest mods.
1. Replaced my 40 ohm woofer with 80 ohm, completely rewired speakers, added 80 ohm inverter and L-pad. For those of you who have not done this, it is great as I can now actually hear/feel the bass tones in the game. BTW, the L-pad was a must in order to manually balance the sound the way that was best for my ears.

Are you sure those are 40 and 80 ohms? I'm thinking maybe 4 ohms was stock and you might have put in an 8 ohm speaker?

#3816 2 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

Are you sure those are 40 and 80 ohms? I'm thinking maybe 4 ohms was stock and you might have put in an 8 ohm speaker?

Oops, you are right. Corrected my original post.

#3817 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Geez, now I really have issues. Been turning off and on trying different voltage tests and I accidentally arced something. Turned on just now and heard a buzz. Realized top pop number was engaged (ie coil firing) and not stopping. I smelled burning from the pop bumper after a couple of seconds so turned pin off immediately. Top jet shares J107-2 and is on J127-6 with plunger on J127-4.
So, the positive, I think, I now know that the plunger (Solenoid 12) and the top pop bumper (Sol 13) correspond to Transistors Q52 and Q50, respectively. When I look very closely, all of the transistors are a dark black with legible lettering on them. However, when I look at Q50 and Q52 they are more grayish and I cannot make out the lettering on them, which I guess is bad. Probably plunger stuck open and top pop stuck closed.
I assume my question now is, how do I get this board fixed, as I do not have the knowledge/tools to do the job or to check any other directly related components. I can buy a replacement PDB, but don't want to fork out $300 if I don't have to.

A transistor fried on my BOP light board and my pintech came out, pulled the board, took it home, put a new one in, checked the board for other problems and found none, came back, put the board in and charged me $120. All in 4 days. Not bad. Hope you have a guy that can do all that for that price.

#3818 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

A transistor fried on my BOP light board and my pintech came out, pulled the board, took it home, put a new one in, checked the board for other problems and found none, came back, put the board in and charged me $120. All in 4 days. Not bad. Hope you have a guy that can do all that for that price.

excellent price !!!

#3819 2 years ago

So im finally back up and running. Its been a long haul restoring this machine but soo happy with the results.
Finally time to play a game of me ole Getaway !!!

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#3820 2 years ago

If you actually click on the pictures they look a lot better for some reason.

#3821 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

When I look very closely, all of the transistors are a dark black with legible lettering on them. However, when I look at Q50 and Q52 they are more grayish and I cannot make out the lettering on them, which I guess is bad. Probably plunger stuck open and top pop stuck closed.
I assume my question now is, how do I get this board fixed, as I do not have the knowledge/tools to do the job or to check any other directly related components. I can buy a replacement PDB, but don't want to fork out $300 if I don't have to.

You can work a soldering iron right? Go to a local electronics store and get a half dozen TIP102 transistors, they are very common and cheap. You can fix this, and I will help you do at least a temp fix until you acquire the skills or have a tech do a permanent fix for you.
DO NOT think you have to replace the board, you NEVER have to replace a board unless its been on fire! Short of that, anything is repairable.

#3822 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

So im finally back up and running. Its been a long haul restoring this machine but soo happy with the results.
Finally time to play a game of me ole Getaway !!!

That is gorgeous, and I love the red trim. Very nice work!

#3823 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

You can work a soldering iron right? Go to a local electronics store and get a half dozen TIP102 transistors, they are very common and cheap. You can fix this, and I will help you do at least a temp fix until you acquire the skills or have a tech do a permanent fix for you.
DO NOT think you have to replace the board, you NEVER have to replace a board unless its been on fire! Short of that, anything is repairable.

I can solder, but I have a few concerns: skill to solder something that small, my vision and steadiness of hand, and how to diagnose if anything else is wrong with the board. I may have someone locally who can repair it, but I'll have to call around tomorrow. Don't mind shipping it to a Pinsider who repairs boards depending upon reputation and cost.

#3824 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

So im finally back up and running. Its been a long haul restoring this machine but soo happy with the results.
Finally time to play a game of me ole Getaway !!!

Oh is that nice. SUPER job. that red pc looks great. Now all ya need are my red Leg Light-Ups.

#3826 2 years ago

Hey fellas, my tunnel shot, when it ejects, it is bouncing back into the scoop. Has anyone encountered this before. Mine used to do it once or twice, but now it will go on forever. I watched it do 15 times on Saturday so I turned it off.

#3827 2 years ago
Quoted from futurepinhead:

Hey fellas, my tunnel shot, when it ejects, it is bouncing back into the scoop. Has anyone encountered this before. Mine used to do it once or twice, but now it will go on forever. I watched it do 15 times on Saturday so I turned it off

Sounds like your ball kicker mech might need adjustment or a rebuild. Doesn't sound like it's ejecting the ball with enough force maybe?
It's cheap and fairly easy to do.

#3828 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh is that nice. SUPER job. that red pc looks great. Now all ya need are my red Leg Light-Ups.

Thanks paul! What would it cost me to get those leg light u to good ole Canada ?

#3829 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sounds like your ball kicker mech might need adjustment or a rebuild. Doesn't sound like it's ejecting the ball with enough force maybe?
It's cheap and fairly easy to do.

1st thing I'd check too

#3830 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sounds like your ball kicker mech might need adjustment or a rebuild. Doesn't sound like it's ejecting the ball with enough force maybe?
It's cheap and fairly easy to do.

Actually it is quite the opposite. It is hitting it out so hard, it's bouncing off the orbit and coming back into the tunnel.

Shit, am I missing a T gate?!

#3831 2 years ago

Page #63; Post #3135. My first post. I finally caught up. Read through every post. Wow, what a long, strange trip. Can't believe it's been a month since I bought my Getaway. Y'all have been very helpful. Thank you so much, theonlyest , tiltmonster , mustangpaul , mr_tantrum , and all the other Speeders here. It's already been quite a ride, and I'm looking forward to more fun in the future.

#3832 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Thanks paul! What would it cost me to get those leg light u to good ole Canada ?

Shipping would be $10, if it's more I'll eat the difference, if it's less I'll refund it. PM me if your interested.

#3833 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That is gorgeous, and I love the red trim. Very nice work!

Thanks MrT !!

#3834 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Shipping would be $10, if it's more I'll eat the difference, if it's less I'll refund it. PM me if your interested.

Ok thanks, And how much are the lights ?

#3835 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Ok thanks, And how much are the lights ?

I think he wanted to discuss pricing via PM, so you should.

#3836 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Here's something kind of neat. I just put on a red led strip on the inside of the metal ramp. It's tied into the supercharger right side flasher. The ball does not hit it as it flies around and doesn't mess up the electric eye either and it flashes with every pop hit. I couldn't get a picture of it flashing but it does look neat. You really can't see the strip unless your 6ft tall from the players position.

Can you still find the thin red LED strip used in your SC? Searched for it, but no luck.

#3837 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Can you still find the thin red LED strip used in your SC? Searched for it, but no luck.

I think this is the length I used. They can be cut every 3 leds to make them shorter. I used a dab of Super Glue Gel every couple inches and held each glue spot for a couple minutes to make sure it was stuck before I moved to the next spot so it will take you a while. Then I spliced into the first red flasher of the 3 on the sc. Make sure you measure the length of where you want to go with it, but I think the 90cm is right.
ebay.com link

#3838 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I think he wanted to discuss pricing via PM, so you should.

Well not really, the price is $85 with free shipping to the lower 48. I just wanted to carry on the conversation in pm and not clutter up the club.

#3839 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Then I spliced into the first red flasher of the 3 on the sc

May have to redo that MP if the latest Co-project works out (i'm pretty bloody confident )

#3840 2 years ago

superbee , I didn't think I would like the red in place of the chrome, but I gotta say, yours looks really cool. And to me, it makes sense, since the Lambo doesn't have any chrome on it. Looks good.

#3841 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

May have to redo that MP if the latest Co-project works out (i'm pretty bloody confident )

Oh yeah.

#3842 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I think this is the length I used. They can be cut every 3 leds to make them shorter. I used a dab of Super Glue Gel every couple inches and held each glue spot for a couple minutes to make sure it was stuck before I moved to the next spot so it will take you a while. Then I spliced into the first red flasher of the 3 on the sc. Make sure you measure the length of where you want to go with it, but I think the 90cm is right.
ebay.com link

Do you have a video of this in action? Even if a short one with phone you can email me if not? Would really like to see the effect before I decide to make the effort or not.

#3843 2 years ago

Well, please don't everyone hate me, but I've decided to purchase a replacement driver board given all my issues. My decision was not made in haste, but based on 3 primary factors:

1) While I could acquire the parts that I think I needed locally to repair the board, I have never done this kind of detailed work before, have no idea how to test my work, and am concerned that while I may address an obvious issue I could easily overlook other things.

2) I am more than happy to pay a reputable repair shop who takes a holistic approach to board repair. However, based upon the calls I made the shortest repair window offered was maybe 4 weeks (excluding the week or more of shipping back and forth, and even 4 weeks was no guarantee).

3) This is my only pin, and I am already having withdrawal. On top of that we will be having events at my house over the next few weeks, and I don't want an expensive giant paperweight in the game room . . . "Hey everyone, look at my cool new pinball machine. What's that? No, of course you can't play it or even turn it on because it has been broken for weeks, and I have no idea when it will be fixed."

As a result, I purchased a Rotten Dog replacement from Big Daddy who is regionally close to me, so I hope I will have the board by this weekend. On another note, I do value the original board and it is not just going in the trash. After removing it yesterday, it is apparent that multiple repairs have been done on it before, yet it still looks pretty clean and it has held up. My plan is to either send it off for repair, work on the repairs myself as I have time to learn, or sell it "as is" to someone who values it and can restore it to proper working order (FYI, if that is you, please make me an offer).

#3844 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

So im finally back up and running. Its been a long haul restoring this machine but soo happy with the results.
Finally time to play a game of me ole Getaway !!!

Man, the more I look at it, the more I love the red. Is that powder coat or some other finish? Did you do it yourself (how) or outsource it (if so, what was approximate cost for legs, side rails, and lockbar if you don't mind sharing)?

#3845 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, please don't everyone hate me, but I've decided to purchase a replacement driver board given all my issues. My decision was not made in haste, but based on 3 primary factors:
1) While I could acquire the parts that I think I needed locally to repair the board, I have never done this kind of detailed work before, have no idea how to test my work, and am concerned that while I may address an obvious issue I could easily overlook other things.
2) I am more than happy to pay a reputable repair shop who takes a holistic approach to board repair. However, based upon the calls I made the shortest repair window offered was maybe 4 weeks (excluding the week or more of shipping back and forth, and even 4 weeks was no guarantee).
3) This is my only pin, and I am already having withdrawal. On top of that we will be having events at my house over the next few weeks, and I don't want an expensive giant paperweight in the game room . . . "Hey everyone, look at my cool new pinball machine. What's that? No, of course you can't play it or even turn it on because it has been broken for weeks, and I have no idea when it will be fixed."
As a result, I purchased a Rotten Dog replacement from Big Daddy who is regionally close to me, so I hope I will have the board by this weekend. On another note, I do value the original board and it is not just going in the trash. After removing it yesterday, it is apparent that multiple repairs have been done on it before, yet it still looks pretty clean and it has held up. My plan is to either send it off for repair, work on the repairs myself as I have time to learn, or sell it "as is" to someone who values it and can restore it to proper working order (FYI, if that is you, please make me an offer).

That's perfectly fine but I would suggest you call or email Clive at Coin Op Cauldron he does great work and he fixed my accelerator board that is unavailable for purchase, the thing runs like a champ.

Having said that, I have a new driver board ( mine is a PinLed but I don't think you can buy these anymore) and it's awesome ( I still have the original too ). I bought a Rottendog board 1st but it didn't work correctly so I got a refund and bought the PinLed board. That's not to say Rottendog's are a bad product because there are plenty of people who bought his boards and they work flawlessly. Of course that was 12 years ago...

Good luck!

http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/brepairs.html

#3846 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, please don't everyone hate me, but I've decided to purchase a replacement driver board given all my issues.

I could have fixed your issues in 10 mins, with less than $10 in parts....

#3847 2 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

That's perfectly fine but I would suggest you call or email Clive at Coin Op Cauldron he does great work and he fixed my accelerator board that is unavailable for purchase, the thing runs like a champ.
Having said that, I have a new driver board ( mine is a PinLed but I don't think you can buy these anymore) and it's awesome ( I still have the original too ). I bought a Rottendog board 1st but it didn't work correctly so I got a refund and bought the PinLed board. That's not to say Rottendog's are a bad product because there are plenty of people who bought his boards and they work flawlessly. Of course that was 12 years ago...
Good luck!
http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/brepairs.html

He is the first person I called. Told me minimum 4 week turnaround on my board and he actually currently has a 9 week backlog.

#3848 2 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I could have fixed your issues in 10 mins, with less than $10 in parts....

I know the parts are relatively cheap, and probably a relatively simple repair for someone with experience/skill repairing boards. On the other hand, I obviously caused more damage when I was trying to diagnose the original issue, so repairs went beyond just the one transistor. Additionally, I don't really like taking advantage of other's time and skills if I don't have too. If you were in my neighborhood, I would have probably just come over to your house, let you do the work, then take you out to lunch or something. While I don't like wasting money any more than the next guy, I am in a position where I can afford a new board. I would be happy to pass my old board onto someone for a nominal price in it's current state or even on contingency that it will be successfully repaired. If not, I will get it fixed at some point and hold on to it as a spare, or like I mentioned use this as a self-learning opportunity and work on repairing it myself.

#3849 2 years ago

I have red legs and pincabs on mine, but the rails and lockbar are a bit over the top for my taste.

hs2.jpg

#3850 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, please don't everyone hate me, but I've decided to purchase a replacement driver board given all my issues. My decision was not made in haste, but based on 3 primary factors:
1) While I could acquire the parts that I think I needed locally to repair the board, I have never done this kind of detailed work before, have no idea how to test my work, and am concerned that while I may address an obvious issue I could easily overlook other things.
2) I am more than happy to pay a reputable repair shop who takes a holistic approach to board repair. However, based upon the calls I made the shortest repair window offered was maybe 4 weeks (excluding the week or more of shipping back and forth, and even 4 weeks was no guarantee).
3) This is my only pin, and I am already having withdrawal. On top of that we will be having events at my house over the next few weeks, and I don't want an expensive giant paperweight in the game room . . . "Hey everyone, look at my cool new pinball machine. What's that? No, of course you can't play it or even turn it on because it has been broken for weeks, and I have no idea when it will be fixed."
As a result, I purchased a Rotten Dog replacement from Big Daddy who is regionally close to me, so I hope I will have the board by this weekend. On another note, I do value the original board and it is not just going in the trash. After removing it yesterday, it is apparent that multiple repairs have been done on it before, yet it still looks pretty clean and it has held up. My plan is to either send it off for repair, work on the repairs myself as I have time to learn, or sell it "as is" to someone who values it and can restore it to proper working order (FYI, if that is you, please make me an offer).

No hate what so ever, if you need it that fast and have the money it's cool. I hope the board works for you. That's one reason we all have more then one game, one goes down we have more to play.

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