Wow, ive never seen a Getaway with full mylar before. Maybe its an early playfield without the diamond coat on it ? Does your playfield have the diamond coat stamp on it down by the left drain ?

That is odd, it should have Mylar in the pop bumper area and ball return on wire form area only, I wonder if that was installed after the fact.

Diamond plate doesn't last forever, the key is to be proactive and do something BEFORE the visible wear starts. When I got mine, it was at the stage where inserts were starting to show wear, so I added a mylar PF protector. Obviously someone did the same with this game at some point, and they apparenty used some shitty clear film, and not actual mylar!

Thats what im thinking.

Again, thats what im thinking.

BTW: it's my understanding that there were several PF manufacturers back in the day and Diamond Plate was the term one company used for their clear coating process. As an example, CFTBL PF are all clear coated but there are some with the Diamond Plate stamp which only means it was produced by that company; however, all the CFTBL PF were clear coated. There was also a difference in the pink tones from the various companies that produced those PF and that's why you see some light pink and hot pink Cadillacs. So when you see the light pink ones it does not mean its faded or worn... sorry, I digress from the topic.

they all say diamond plate, but you're right about different companies doing the actual clear-coating.

In 1990 when Diamond Plate was introduced, polyurethane coating technology was in its infancy. They were only just starting to use it on cars too. It was certainly an improvement over the enamel clear coats that were used on games like High Speed, Pinbot and Cyclone... But not by leaps and bounds. Now in the age of Rhino coatings and advanced epoxy coatings, Mylar is rarely necessary.
People even today, still have this misconception that Diamond Plate is forever and indestructible... Its not, even back then, Williams only claimed that it should add an additional 2-3 years of protection (over enamel clearcoat) before significant visible wear occurs in a routed game. This is why even in DP games, Mylar was still used in rebound areas like pop bumpers, slings and high abuse areas like ball drops.

At the same time, my T2 is Diamond Plated, and is HUO... 25 years later, absolutely no sign of visible wear to the clearcoat.

Well I've decided I like the one without the cars for now, especially when I made it transparent. It's very subtle and hard to see in the pictures but it has a metallic look that I like.

I made one with the cars in a white back ground that is my fall back.

I appreciate your hard work!

No cars with clear decal
No Cars (resized).jpg

Cars with white decal
Cars (resized).jpg
Table clear decal with no cars
Table No Cars (resized).jpg

and don't forget about the $4 flipper button light-up. Mine only cost me the price of 2 double head flex leds and 20 cents for the 2, 44 sockets.

You got that game just in time and saved it.

I missed this one. Can you please link to post?

Found this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/3#post-1471650

Is this what you did but with doubles?

Actually, just found this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

Guys, are you printing the decals yourself? Or are you getting them done somewhere?

Talk to Mr Tantrum

Sorry, misread what you asked. Just print them yourself .

I print myself on 6 color inkjet with high gloss photo paper, cover with Mylar, apply double sided tape on back, then cut with knife or scissors around print edge. For plastic decals I did a little different and used high quality Epson inlet paper (not thick photo paper) for the light to shine through. I am sure vinyl would be best, but I haven't researched what is needed for this.

Thanks, I was just thinking if you were having them done that we could do a group at a time.

Vinyl would probably be best, but haven't researched this. I really don't have a desire to sell them or be in the decal printing and distribution business, but would not be opposed if someone else wanted to have a few printed and then share them at cost with others.

I just wanted to do some customizations on my pin, and figured if I had already done the graphics work then why not share with others who may want to do the same.

You still need to light that speed limit sign just like your sling gauges . . . it's begging for it.

Since my playfield is a diamond plate, I knew there was clear under the mylar. I used a sharp razor blade to gently lift he mylar on the edge. I simultaneously pulled back the mylar horizontally while assisting the separation with the blade. I made sure to keep the blade as flat and almost parallel with the playfield as possible. I made sure to go very slow and kept an eye out for any lifting of paint or clear. After all the Mylar was removed, I used a combination of flour and ethanol for the residual glue. The alcohol makes the glue softer but gummy and the flour binds to it so it doesn't stick back. Total process took me about 4 hours. I don't recommend using a blade on a surface that has no clear though.

Let me Google that for you. "DIY Vinyl Decals"; first hit in the shop by Google; https://www.walmart.com/ip/10285214?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222228000010367&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=40939512632&wl4=pla-78876057872&wl5=9008421&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=10285214&wl13=&veh=sem

For $20, it's worth a shot.

Had some decals made, when I get final artwork approved I will have more made, should take about a week because I'm on vacation

P_20161026_214557 (resized).jpg

My posts on that thread are #108 and 124. I did those before Comet came out with the double flex head which I used later on. Vids was more expensive cuz his sockets were more expensive then mine. Oh and my sockets are only 15 cents each not 20.

Yeah and now that Comet has those jewel post lights they make it even easier. That's what you used isn't it Mr T?

Some morning ball; testing my new collapsible PinGulp.

image (resized).jpeg

We now have the donut heaven decal in stock. $15 shipped. This is the decal made by Cool Smiley. We are distributing them for him in the US to help people avoid the shipping costs.

http://lermods.com/products/donut-shop-decal

QUEyQUM0NkJGRDdEMkYxNDcwMjM6ZWExMTY1MmYyMjY4ZmVkMmY2NTM0ZjIwMDY1MTRhMGM6Ojo6OjA= (resized).jpg

Hmm, yes, I think you may be right. Now I have to dig around to find one and try it out.

Edit: Yup, still have plenty of post light sitting around

I have those on most of my games, it's nice to have them fold up and out of the way when you have to stand on the side of the game to work on it.

Here is what I used for gauges and speed limit sign: http://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm

Yes, and I've been working on the left side alot over the past two weeks, but this morning was a test and the results were good. Replaced the entrance ramp tx and rx optos and it works now. Diverter opens to let the ball in the supercharger. Coffee will not be the next beverage to go in the PinGulp. I'll be drinking and driving this weekend!

Now I want to figure out how to get some more speed out of the supercharger. It lopes around but I've seen video of ones that go alot faster.

Big shout out to The Onlyest for lots of help over PM to get me through this. Also tiltmonster gave me some good tips and where to check. Appreciate the help from all of you here. Very thankful.

Where's your donut holder . . . on the other side?

Would you mind posting a pic of your current setup from inside & out here for reference purposes?

Good news! What are the speed test results?

I'll do a speed test again, but before the opto issues it was around 110. And I'm assuming 110 means the number of milliseconds between each made loop pass, since a lower number means faster?

See, sometimes people here do know what they are talking about! In all seriousness, glad it ended up being what we thought, and not something more costly/complicated. Now you can get on with Redline Mania!

I looked back, and I see I started having this issue 10 days ago. Seems like a lifetime already. I have tools all over the game room. Wife has been patient with me. She likes a neat house.

Call me lame but I haven't been to RM yet.

You could be right and honestly I'm not certain what it measures but Williams considered anything over 145 to be a problem. I think the best range is high 70's to low 90's, I'll test mine again but I think I'm in the mid 80's now....

Just think about how much you're learned in that short period of time and you're probably over your fear (if you had any) of messing around with your pin (plus you saved yourself some money by not calling in a pinball repair guy).

It's the same as those pictures, just one socket with a 2 head bulb in it is all.

I was mainly wondering how/where you placed the two bulbs for best effect.

I am in mid-high 90's with all new optos. For me, I am satisfied with the speed vs. trying to do something else to improve it (e.g. replace magnets). In my case, even if the ball initially barely makes it to the first magnet, there is always enough power to throw it full circle and to keep it looping. Two balls is the most I've had going around together, and that works great. I guess I could test 3 at a time by hand, but haven't really thought about it up to this point.

These are looking great!

Time tests better than I remembered, not messing with anything!

http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/getaway/the-getaway-high-speed-2-alternate-translite-3.html

Looks like a new third Gen translite. Looks pretty nice. Im just wondering how the lighting would work with it . I dont think it would work very well.

I just dont get this (or the 2nd gen?), I am a Ferrari guy, I even own one, and I still cant understand why anyone would want a translight featuring a Ferrari on a game that's theme focuses around (the likeness of) a Lamborghini Diablo!!???

I will admit the artwork on the Getaway isn't one of the best like EATPM, CFTBL, GB... it's not one I'd swap out like I would if (when) I get The Shadow but that's just my opinion.

I think the artwork is cool, but I am greatly and constantly annoyed by the ram-air scoop on the car, its borderline sacrilegious! But I also hate the ram-air scoop on the supercharger ramp, if there was a mod to change that to just about anything else, i'd prolly jump on it. I've even stood and stared at it for extended periods of time hoping to be inspired with an idea of creating my own subtle and DE-emphasized cover to replace it.

I agree. Cant someone come up with a cool Lambo/cop/chase inspired alternate translite that is designed to work with the lightboard configuration ???? If so, i would be sooo in !!!

You'll just have to mess with it.

I've had 3 going a couple of times, what a blast....and boy is it noisy, sounds like something is gonna break.

VERY good. Mines about 91.