We didn't have a sleeve post on hand, but did end up having a hex post for a spot light that we slightly shortened, and all is right with the world again. Since this is in a very tight spot and not visible from the player's perspective, I don't think it is going to be too big of an issue with my OCD.

Now you see why on location operators would put in a screw, some other post, or some rubber bands... just to keep earning. That's why some of us could afford to buy these machines, because they needed the TLC but now a days it's crazy on the pricing. I'm still looking for my 3rd pin to complete my collection but I like to fix them as much as I like to play them. I'm glad you were able to get back up and running!

On a side note, I've decided that I like the yellow hairpin sign more than the orange, the color balances out the stop light and it's more visible during play. Thank you for taking the time to make the other color options.

I've got one that you could enjoy fixing!!

Thinking of joining the club. I know a guy that has one for $2400 locally shopped and no fade. Worth driving an hour to get it?

Yes, that's a fair price and only an hour drive

Did you look at the settings in the menu?

If that did not fix it please post a few picture so we can look them over.

if it doesn't need anything, i mean anything, i'm okay with that.

check for burnt gi connectors: j120, 121. check main cabinet speaker for dry-rotting. make sure shooter plunger is correct part, and it works properly. it should go around the short loop over to the top right flipper everytime. check boards for acid damage and burnt resistors/blown caps. test supercharger and divertor thoroughly. look for broken plastics. check for pop bumper, ball lock ramp and tunnel shot wear. make sure the ball lock ramp still has a flap riveted on. test the kickback. make sure flippers feel good. if it doesn't have led's, see if you could get those thrown in, even if you have to install them. i could go on and on.

long story short, it better be real nice.

I would say absolutely if pin is a good shape. That is right at what I paid for mine which needed some work. However, it was my first pin so I was willing to pay a little more to get it, and from what I hear TX is a seller's market right now.

Granted that Getaway is my first pin, but it is a fun player's machine. Good flow, cool supercharger toy, bright colors, long plays (ball does not easily drain), guest/child friendly (I believe the only questionable language I have heard on rare occasion is "damn, they're shooting at us").

I had to mow the yard last night, so I didn't open it up to test. Plan to look at again tonight. Picked up some 91% iso. alcohol to clean the optos.

I read somewhere on here that the optos should look clear and an aged one has yellowed and looks like a popcorn kernel. I think the entrance ramp to the sc is like that.

Also after some looking around it seems like everyone is getting 80s on the sc test, and I'm around 110. I need to wax to improve speed, and I'll look at opening up the sc and cleaning the optos there to try and get some more speed. It was BlackRose videos where I saw that he was getting high speeds in the sc. Maybe I should change out all the optos, even if they are working,

I paid $2,600 and it was a two hour drive; in the rain. So yea sounds like a deal to me. Mine was marginally shopped, and does have a full LED kit, if that adds to it's value. The cabinet is somewhat faded; the reds are kind of pink now. Otherwise it's in pretty good shape, except for a flaky lamp, and my dreaded diverter issues.

I am hoping I don't have to take the sc off to get to my diverter issue, (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-supercharger-removal-tutorial). Looks like a long process, but it could be the problem. It will open for the sc test and stay open for the test, but will not open during game play.

Then the diverter itself is not the problem. It is a switch/opto problem... Which is not to say that a switch/opto is bad, it can be a logic or switch matrix problem. Have you done a RAM-clear on it? unplug from the wall, take out a battery, let sit for 10 mins, put battery back in and plug in, you will lose your settings and high scores, but this can resolve issues that cause your game to act nutty.

Thoughts on this before I finalize and post all the graphics?

Top pic is my design (please click on it to see full scale), bottom pic is all I had to go from at the request of another pinsider.

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All these decals are great man thanks! I am definitely using these down the road on my Getaway. Thanks again!

Just finished the decals last night on mine

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That looks awesome. I've not yet gathered the gumption to redo my cab yet.

Nice!

I' really liking some of these decals but that Donut Heaven is so nice.

I printed this out on clear label paper, then laminated it... I like the reflective properties of the og metal so that's why I did it that way, guess I'm going to do it again but now with the cars. Great work and thank you!

I'll post some of the other with your decal work later.

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OK. Info I didn't know. Will try that.

Wait, I thought you left...

Misinterpreted...

Tantrum, to my eye, it should be this font, but that's me. It's cool either way. I've got the DH plastic building so you do what you want. All neat stuff.

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Okay, all updated artwork has been posted to site: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball

Enjoy, be sure to post pics so we can all share with our Getaway friends!

Lookin' Good! Sorry to make you redo it, but I hope it's what you've been wanting.

Not criticizing if that's the way you like it, but I designed to cut around outer yellow and leave black line running around sign (similar to real road sign). Should print to perfect size as long as you don't do any increase in your print driver (btw, you must download from my site and not just download the pics I post here in the forum).

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Yeah, that's the way it is, you just can't tell from that photo.

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Ahh, I zoomed in and see now . . . sorry, didn't mean to insult your intelligence, but wanted to make sure you knew.

Funny thing is I didn't really like this mod when it was going to cost me $10+, but now that I made my own (even better design IMHO) I think it's kind of cool. To your point, it offers a little balance to the traffic light.

Wish someone would make redesigned cab art...

Beyond time and effort I am willing to put into it, but I can visualize some good ideas based upon the theme.

FYI, I just made an upgrade to my personal Getaway resource page at http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball where I added images of the artwork. Thought this would make it easier for newcomers to see what was included in the various files without having to download them first.

My intent here is not to self-promote (which I am not above doing if I was charging for things), but to contribute in a small way to the Getaway community. I also want to express my appreciation in a way that I can to all of those here who have helped me as I've gotten into this new hobby of pinball.

If you have other ideas of anything you might want to have artwork wise for repairing or modding your Getaway, then post it here in the forum. If I think I have the skill to do it and also think it would benefit the community as a whole, then I'll put it on my project list.

I think i know someone here who could probably steal enough of these for all of us in one good night. He know where a lot of them are. Heloo......Grinder ?

Lookin good brother !
Just waiting on a couple of things to get mine fully back together. Cant wait. Should be soon.
Here are a few pics. Full resto thread at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-cabinet-restoration

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Very nice! An odd observation but it's amazing how good the inside looks when painted.

Your doing a great job on it. What kind of flooring is that, I'm looking for something for my wood floor.

Thanks Tilt. Some people prefer to make it look original which is totally cool but i prefer this look.

Thanks Paul. As you know , this is taking forever as im stalled waiting for my metal rails etc but going to be done soon. the flooring is a vinyl flooring that come in rolls. Sorry, cant remember exactly the brand i bought but lots of comparables online. Just Google "vinyl checkerplate garage flooring".

Did you put the machine in switch test mode and pass your hand between the optos to see of this opened the switch?

In case you missed my light bar mod. It's a Federal Streethawk. I like it. Better might be to remove the stock beacon and mount the light bar centered on the Getaway. But I didn't want to do that. And my BK2K doesn't seem to mind holding up that end of the light bar. I used a bridge rectifier to convert the 18v a/c that powers the beacon to d/c. Then I used a 12v solenoid to energize a 120v receptacle and thereby turn on the battery charger that powers the light bar. Been working this way for many years.

Where are you guys getting your decals made? Do you have a vinyl cutter? Or are you sending them out? Just curious.

Yea that's a bit brighter!

Now I did it. Did the factory reset like Onlyest suggested. Cleared every issue except the diverter error. But now it wants quarters. How do I set it to free play?

Are you sure you looked into the setting for the diverter?

Feature

A3

17 free play ---> yes

Feature

A2

15
Diverter broken ---> off

Please ket me know if that doesn't clear it but ypu said it works in test mode?

Duplicate

Found free play. Yes diverter broken was already set to off.

Im interesting too as well. My only dtc is divertor error. I put my whole game back together. It was missing parts, accelerator board blown to bits. All dialed in but wont operate the supercharger because of this code! I even started a thread

Yes it does work in test mode. Supercharger opens up and runs all three balls around 110. Not super fast but it does work. Diverter will open for the test then close for everything else so there must be a divertor high setting and a diverter low setting. And one of those two is out of whack.

Did the ball ever enter the super charger?

If it works in test mode it could be the opto not working, that switch should tell it to open.

Test the switch, if it's not working it could be...

Maybe it's not lined up correctly, like the safety feature on a garage door opener, a wire could have come off them or the opto could be bad.

Usually the ooto transmitter is bad, the reciever rarely fails but you never know.

That's where I'd start