you have to be semi-forceful with it, and the click is almost a thud. you'll hear two of them simultaneously.
(Topic ID: 78179)
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Quoted from weaverj:doesn't look like you're pulling it out far enough, brah.
Correct, the parts are there so that's the good news.
When you slide out your playfield, hold it up slightly over the cabinet until you hear a click, the back pin should be in between the bracket, the latch will close over the pin allowing you to then lift up the playfield towards the back box.
Ah, those targets... A #55 wedge bulb. A few things to try are
1st and the easiest thing to try is swap in a different socket from the board to see if it works. You can buy new sockets here if that fixes the issue.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/24-8767
Make sure all the wires on the molex connector are in tact and making good contact. A handy tool to have is ...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC156
Make sure the socket and the contact on the circuit board are clean.
But if I had to guess, it's the pins on circuit board have become lose and need to be soldered. Many times the pins are loose and the connection falters. If you need help with that please let me know but you'll need to pull the board off the pin to make this repair...
EDIT: don't worry, that will not hurt your machine if you decide not to fix it but just know if it is the pins, more lights on the board could experience the same issues if more pins become loose.
Middleburg Heights, OH
Quoted from Charger500:I am meeting resistance, so I stopped
You shouldn't have to force it but it will take some effort to get the playfield to lock into the pins. I'll take some better photos for you so you can make sure everything is lined up correctly.
lift up the playfield about a foot, so nothing hits the front of your cabinet. make sure you have enough slack in wiring to the backbox. not sure what else it could be.
Yes. That's the LED. It works. Seems to be a cold solder joint. I may have to flow it again. It randomly comes on and off.
Newmarket, ON
Thanks to y'all issue #3 is now resolved. The hinge had been jammed over the playfield rail edge. Pulling it off and lifting it up the correct way latched both sides in. Did it twice just to be sure. Issue #2 still persists. With the playfield in a comfortable vertical position I could get to it easier. Tried tweaking the socket pins but no luck. Don't have any spare sockets but I'll get some and try that. Thank you tilt, weaver, per3 and everyone else for the help.
Quoted from Charger500:Thanks to y'all issue #3 is now resolved. The hinge had been jammed over the playfield rail edge. Pulling it off and lifting it up the correct way latched both sides in. Did it twice just to be sure. Issue #2 still persists. With the playfield in a comfortable vertical position I could get to it easier. Tried tweaking the socket pins but no luck. Don't have any spare sockets but I'll get some and try that. Thank you tilt, weaver, per3 and everyone else for the help.
No problem. It looks good... that lamp is a minor issue, annoying, yes, but no big deal. I still think it's probably a pin on the circut board but even that is minor.
BTW, Welcome, enjoy the "new" pin!
Your issue with the bulb is simple and incredibly common. Remove the light board and reflow the solder on all the connector pins and put it back in. I can almost 100% guarantee you problem solved. You'll pray from then that all your future issues will be this simple!
you can switch bulb+socket with another that's working to see if the issue stays with those or the pcb socket. if i was betting, however, you probably just need to reflow solder on the male pins on that board, like tilt's been saying.
yeah, definitely looks good.
Thanks for the tips. I won't do that until after this weekend. Bunch of my kid's friends over on Saturday. Getaway and the PacMan multicade should get some plays. And thanks for the compliments. I did absolutely nothing to make it look this nice except drive to Arlington and buy it from per3per3. He did all the work.
Quoted from weaverj:i think that pops up if you haven't multiball'd in awhile.
Oh OK. Show I just showed y'all that I need more practice. How long ago is 'awhile' cause I multi balled about 6 games ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hey Getaway owners, I just bought a LED bulb for my Mars lamp. Could only buy in pack of 2 for $25+ tax so I have an extra. Would be happy to sell to first one who PM's me who wants it for $12 with shipping. I would judge the LED as being slightly brighter than the incadescent. I hope I am not breaking forum rules, but I put here because it is unique to this game.
Any takers?
Quoted from Charger500:Oh OK. Show I just showed y'all that I need more practice. How long ago is 'awhile' cause I multi balled about 6 games ago
never mind, that sounds fine.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:The manual states that a properly adjusted kickback should kick the ball into the tunnel, but mine rarely does this. How do I "properly adjust" my kickback?
Problem solved. Upon close inspection, I noticed that the white plastic cylinder insert was randomly sticking different distances out do the metal shaft. I took the assembly apart and determined that this was not as designed as the plastic piece had broken deep in the cylinder around the set pin. 5 minute Epoxy to the rescue! I spread it all over the inside of the metal shaft and the inside broken tip of the insert, seated the plastic rod firmly, waited 15 minutes or so and put it back into the pin. I've played four games since and it actually kicked the ball into the tunnel 2 out of 4 attempts. As I would have had to play literally dozens of games for this to work once (I actually can't remember the last time it did), I am considering my issue resolved.
Quoted from Charger500:Just when I thought all was cool.
WPC games have the feature that if a switch hasn't registered in a # of games when it thinks it should have.. it will throw an alert theorizing that the switch isn't registering. It can simply be because you haven't made the shot. Simply scoring the switch, or doing so in test mode will clear it.
Quoted from Charger500:Just when I thought all was cool.
No worries, that's a switch error from lack of use, it happens on WPC games if a switch is unused for a certain length of time. This error can be cleared by doing a single switch test in the menu or will be cleared when used but this is a good time to learn some things.
This switch is located in the wire form ball return where the balls will lock for multiball so you will need to...
Take the lock bar and glass off
Open coin door
Turn your game on and hit enter test (black button)
Use the red buttons to cycle to "test menu" hit enter
cycle through until single switch T3 and hit enter
Use red volume button - to go to top lock 74
then wiggle the top lock switch until you hear it beep
Exit menu and restart
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Problem solved. Upon close inspection, I noticed that the white plastic cylinder insert was randomly sticking different distances out do the metal shaft. I took the assembly apart and determined that this was not as designed as the plastic piece had broken deep in the cylinder around the set pin. 5 minute Epoxy to the rescue! I spread it all over the inside of the metal shaft and the inside broken tip of the insert, seated the plastic rod firmly, waited 15 minutes or so and put it back into the pin. I've played four games since and it actually kicked the ball into the tunnel 2 out of 4 attempts. As I would have had to play literally dozens of games for this to work once (I actually can't remember the last time it did), I am considering my issue resolved.
I'm not sure what you mean; did you glue your coil sleeve to the inside of the coil?
Quoted from tiltmonster:I'm not sure what you mean; did you glue your coil sleeve to the inside of the coil?
No I don't think so, the nylon shaft of the plunger is held on to the metal piece with a set pin, the nylon shaft broke at the pin, I had that happen to the ball popper on my EATPM. He's new to pinball and has to get the lingo down.
Quoted from weaverj:you mean the coil sleeve was broke?
No I don't think so, the nylon shaft of the plunger is held on to the metal piece with a set pin, the nylon shaft broke at the pin, I had that happen to the ball popper on my EATPM. He's new to pinball and has to get the lingo down.
Okay, I do apologize for not taking time to go and research the proper names for everything before I posted the "fix" to my issue, but I was trying to describe things as best I could to potentially help those who come behind me (others doing this for issues I have also experienced has been extremely helpful to me). The issue was with the white nylon rod that extends out of the bell armature (plunger) assembly for the kickback. If you look closely, there is a hollow pin running through the end of the larger diameter section which appears to be what holds the smaller diameter metal tube in place along with the nylon rod. My nylon rod was easily moving in and out of the metal shaft, and when I pulled it all the way out there was a semi-circle shape break which signaled to me that it had failed at its weakest point where the pin extended through it. So, I epoxied the heck out of it both at the breakpoint and throughout the tube, and will stick with this until it breaks again or until my next parts order. I hope this explanation (and picture) makes better sense.
Also, I do appreciate everyone's latitude by not sleighing me for using incorrect terminology. I know that calling things what they are properly named helps others diagnose and support issues, but I've not quite achieved full pinball "geek" status yet (well on my way though, I hope!)
yeah, i usually check myself with the game manual or a parts website before trying to explain something.
i'll have to inspect mine. i never hit the tunnel kickout. thanks for the info.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Okay, I do apologize for not taking time to go and research the proper names for everything before I posted the "fix" to my issue, but I was trying to describe things as best I could to potentially help those who come behind me (others doing this for issues I have also experienced has been extremely helpful to me). The issue was with the white nylon rod that extends out of the bell armature (plunger) assembly for the kickback. If you look closely, there is a hollow pin running through the end of the larger diameter section which appears to be what holds the smaller diameter metal tube in place along with the nylon rod. My nylon rod was easily moving in and out of the metal shaft, and when I pulled it all the way out there was a semi-circle shape break which signaled to me that it had failed at its weakest point where the pin extended through it. So, I epoxied the heck out of it both at the breakpoint and throughout the tube, and will stick with this until it breaks again or until my next parts order. I hope this explanation (and picture) makes better sense.
Hey not to worry, all the lingo takes a while to learn, I knew what you were talking about cuz I had a similar problem but the popper I had to replace was an all metal shaft with a plastic up on top and the cup had broken where the pin went through.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Hey not to worry, all the lingo takes a while to learn
Could have been worse, could have been in Aussie dialect 
I was looking at the IPDB site on Getaway and found that my first HS2 may have been an early production unit. The early machines had a different ball launch mechanism according to the info there compared to the later run machines. It is the 5th line down in the attached picture. Makes me feel a little better that I wasn't crazy. 
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1000
FYI... There's a guy obviously parting out an entire Getaway on ebay. So if you're looking for any specific parts or plastics, go take a look. He's selling everything down to the post studs, and really fair prices too!
So, I'm only on page 13 of this thread so far. I have a long way to go. Interesting read so far. Y'all have been into Getaway for at least three years? Cool.
So, my next round of newbie questions is;
1) What basic tools should I have on hand? I have already purchased and used a multi-bit magnetic driver and LED headlamp. Any specific tools like switch adjuster, flipper gauge, inclinometer, Novus #1, #2 cleaner, wax? I also have a multimeter and a complete solder station.
2) What spare parts should I have on hand; bulbs, sockets, fuses.
3) Balls; Which ones and where to get them?
I'd like to have a supply of simple stuff on hand for when something happens. Thanks again.
And I tried to add a comment to an old thread about what to do with old balls, but since I'm an Apprentice, I couldn't revive the thread. My idea was to make a Newton's Cradle.
buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00166LB8M/ref=sxr_rr_xsim1
get a pc tool kit and then a general homeowners tool kit.
for spare parts, i just order extra when i know i need something specific. sometimes you'll get a bulk discount. i've got a pretty good stash now in less than a year. i wouldn't buy a bunch of stuff blindly.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:FYI... There's a guy obviously parting out an entire Getaway on ebay. So if you're looking for any specific parts or plastics, go take a look. He's selling everything down to the post studs, and really fair prices too!
A little disappointed at their asking price. If you filter Getaway parts and add them up you are getting close to the price of buying an entire Getaway (or at least a significant chunk of it). I'm all for capitalism, but not sure if the demand is as high as he may think for some of these parts.
Quoted from weaverj:buy one of these:
amazon.com link »
get a pc tool kit and then a general homeowners tool kit.
for spare parts, i just order extra when i know i need something specific. sometimes you'll get a bulk discount. i've got a pretty good stash now in less than a year. i wouldn't buy a bunch of stuff blindly.
Didn't you mean get one of these? https://store.snapon.com/KRSC246-Series-Roll-Carts-Roll-Cart-Heavy-Duty-Stainless-Steel-Lid-6-drawers-Extreme-Green-P745963.aspx
Quoted from Charger500:So, I'm only on page 13 of this thread so far. I have a long way to go. Interesting read so far. Y'all have been into Getaway for at least three years? Cool. I'd like to have a supply of simple stuff on hand for when something happens. Thanks again.
And I tried to add a comment to an old thread about what to do with old balls, but since I'm an Apprentice, I couldn't revive the thread. My idea was to make a Newton's Cradle.
Below are my 2 cents, realizing that I am one of the newer Getaway owners in this thread (a little over 6 months or so). This forum will prove to be a great friend to you with all sorts of mod ideas, break-fix support, and general fun centered around the Getaway.
1) What basic tools should I have on hand? I have already purchased and used a multi-bit magnetic driver and LED headlamp. Any specific tools like switch adjuster, flipper gauge, inclinometer, Novus #1, #2 cleaner, wax? I also have a multimeter and a complete solder station.
A) Standard tool set with various sized hex wrenches, Novus 1 for sure, Novus 2 works great for buffing old plastics to a new shine, pure carnauba wax (ordered mine from Amazon as all local auto stores only had waxes with carnauba in it - btw, I love the smell of it!), multi-meter, solder gun, may some opto pairs depending upon condition of yours, if you are in need of any playfield paint then search this thread for proper airbrush paints (may be applied with regular brush). Personally, I just used a paperclip and the table holes to align my flippers (plenty of conversation on that in this thread).
2) What spare parts should I have on hand; bulbs, sockets, fuses.
A) If not LED yet, then seriously consider converting with your own custom kit - cheaper and customized to your liking (I used Comet). I have a very thorough post in these thread regarding my experience. Fuses are nice to have, and can be picked up at RadioShack. I would also consider replacing rubbers from Titan and silicone flipper rubbers (some prefer the older style, but I think the silicone are great). Look closely at all your plastic posts, I had a few chipped so I replaced all with new custom color choices. Check all of your switches as I had to replace a couple on my pin. Bent Plastic is good for blocking DMD reflection. Miscellaneous lock nuts and washers if you are missing any (takes a very close inspection), definitely flipper rebuild kit for all 3 flippers if that has not been done recently. Probably a light socket or two - I had a couple of bad ones.
3) Balls; Which ones and where to get them?
A) Purchased mine (and a ton of other stuff) from pinballlife.com (I found to be the most affordable overall of the suppliers, but they don't carry everything). You want the shiniest ones you can get (shinier equals smoother finish), and they offer their Premium Ultra-Gloss ones for $1.50 each.
Quoted from weaverj:for spare parts, i just order extra when i know i need something specific. sometimes you'll get a bulk discount. i've got a pretty good stash now in less than a year. i wouldn't buy a bunch of stuff blindly.
Ditto to this. As I need smaller parts I've just kept a log of them. When I get enough things that I need or want then I place an order.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Also, I do appreciate everyone's latitude by not sleighing me for using incorrect terminology. I know that calling things what they are properly named helps others diagnose and support issues, but I've not quite achieved full pinball "geek" status yet (well on my way though, I hope!)
Not to worry, I would never call anyone out for something like that, heck I'm sure I still call things by the wrong name too, I just wanted to be sure you didn't glue anything to your coil.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Below are my 2 cents, realizing that I am one of the newer Getaway owners in this thread (a little over 6 months or so). This forum will prove to be a great friend to you with all sorts of mod ideas, break-fix support, and general fun centered around the Getaway.
---
3) Balls; Which ones and where to get them?
A) Purchased mine (and a ton of other stuff) from pinballlife.com (I found to be the most affordable overall of the suppliers, but they don't carry everything). You want the shiniest ones you can get (shinier equals smoother finish), and they offer their Premium Ultra-Gloss ones for $1.50 each.
Can't find balls on http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=49&pg=1. Not selling them for some reason.
And since Getaway uses magnets in the Supercharger, don't you need ones that are resistant to being magnetized? Read something about that in my searches.
1) What basic tools should I have on hand? I have already purchased and used a multi-bit magnetic driver and LED headlamp. Any specific tools like switch adjuster, flipper gauge, inclinometer, Novus #1, #2 cleaner, wax? I also have a multimeter and a complete solder station.
Multimeter
Soldering Iron
Fuse puller
Wrenches, sockets and open ended
Screw drivers, Phillips and flat head
Telescoping magnet
Flexible small mirror
Wire strippers/cutter
If you want to go crazy like me, molex tools... crimping, extractor and punch tool
2) What spare parts should I have on hand; bulbs, sockets, fuses.
Bulbs
Fuses
Sockets
Extra playfield an flipper rubbers, sleeve posts
Balls, stored correctly (Getaway magnets will magnetize the balls so its good to switch out).
Flipper bushings
Coil sleeves
Small assorted screws and nuts
Playfield wax
I keep extra coils, molex connectors, bumper caps... but that's a bit excessive
3) Balls; Which ones and where to get them?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PB116-5
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/BALL-STEEL
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=283&zenid=e095dcd5a35b1bb6bfa798acfcf95244 seems to be sold out.
http://www.pbresource.com/Balls.html, but doesn't seem like the best ones.
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=849; seem good.
Hmmm... Nobody has suggested a set of SAE hollow-shaft nut drivers? You'll need every size from 1/4" to 7/16". Cant work on a pin without those! A cheap set from Harbor Freight are more than good enough.
i have all the sockets i need in my two tool kits. i highly recommend a pistol grip tool to use them, if you can find one.
Quoted from Charger500:Can't find balls on http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=49&pg=1. Not selling them for some reason.
And since Getaway uses magnets in the Supercharger, don't you need ones that are resistant to being magnetized? Read something about that in my searches.
They must have beem out for some reason as I just checked my previus orders with them, and what I previously stated is correct. Regarding special balls, I seriously doubt it and have no issue with the high quality steel balls I have. Does it really make sense for a pin manufacturer back in the day to have one pinball machine that uses different balls than others?
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