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(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

6 years ago



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  • 10,866 posts
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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by kdunbar
  • Topic is favorited by 208 Pinsiders

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There are 10866 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 218.
#3101 4 years ago

It looks like U20 is socketed, so should I just try replacing the chip (no idea where to buy it), or do you think it's time for a new MPU board? I bought this pin used, and it was disclosed to me that batteries had corroded and the external battery pack installed. However, everything tested out fine, and I've had the pin for several months and been playing it.

#3102 4 years ago

Actually, I just found this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/ULN2803A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvAvBNgSS9LqpP7ived4CP2

Just so happens this place is only 15 miles from where I work. Guess I need to pull the circuit board out again and inspect this area more closely for issues. Probably worth the $1 and 30 minutes of driving to try the chip first if everything looks in order. Thoughts?

#3103 4 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Your problem is with switch matrix column #1 (J206, Pin 1) your 4 freeway switches probably aren't working either. But if they are, you likely just have a broken or disconnected common wire (green w/brown stripe) somewhere in the circuit. If none of those switches work either, your U20 probably died.

How did you determine my freeway switches would not be working? Your guidance has been extremely helpful, and I am just wanting to understand everything fully.

#3104 4 years ago

Sorry for not elaborating on that, J206 & J207 are the same, as are J208 & J209. Unless you have a matrix tester, you should start by replacing U20, it is your switch matrix chip, and a common failure. You may be lucky and your U20 chip is socketed, which makes it a 2 minute repair, and is usually evidence that its been replaced before. That said, if it's not socketed, and you replace it, put in a socket!
If you do some googling, you can find out the "hack" ways of testing your switch matrix, but I am not willing to advise on that, I dont wanna be the guy that tells you to do something that possibly results in you damaging your MPU and causing more problems.

#3105 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

How did you determine my freeway switches would not be working? Your guidance has been extremely helpful, and I am just wanting to understand everything fully.

Your detailed description of the problem was helpful, particularly that your tilt-bob wasn't working either. So good on you for even noticing that.
When you have a problem like that, the first thing to do is always look for a common element to each problem... In your case, the start button, tilt-bob, and all 4 freeway switches are controlled by a common switch column... Column 1

#3106 4 years ago

Well, bad news for me. I replaced U20 chip and issue was not resolved. At this point I am guessing has to be an issue with MPU board itself?

#3107 4 years ago

Have you had any issues or interaction with your coin door interface board lately? Check Pin 1 on connector J1 on the coin door interface board and make sure you have continuity back to the CPU connector J212, Pin 1. Also check for continuity between J212, pin 1 and J207, pin 1 on the CPU.
R67 & C11 on the CPU are related to this circuit, I wont say its not possible that one or both of them may have blown, but in 25 years of working on Williams pins, ive never seen one go... 99 times out of 100, when your symptoms occur, there's a broken wire or U20 took a crap.
You did make sure that the wire connected to the J207 connector, pin 1 is not pulled away or broken from the connector right?? For S&G's, tug on the wire a bit and make sure its well seated on that connector!

#3109 4 years ago

I got what according to the manual is the proper sleeve and the plunger is still not firing the ball strong enough. I assume I have it assembled correctly? Pointing toward the shooter lane...from top to bottom... the coil, the sleeve with the flange against the bottom of the coil plastic, the coil bracket with the notch around the coil plastic notch, the spring and plunger. It is aligned perfectly centered on the ball. With the assembly fastened together, there is about a 1/4" to 1/2" protrusion of the coil sleeve into the shooter lane.

The first picture shows how far out the armeture protrudes at full plunge, second at normal rest. Maybe I have the wrong armeture? Where should it and the sleeve be at rest relative to the ball and shooter lane? Pics from someone whose is working?

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#3110 4 years ago

That looks like the wrong plunger. The Getaway plunger is extra long and comes past the end of the sleeve at rest.

#3111 4 years ago

Is that the right sleeve? 03-7067-6 which is 2 11/16" flanged. Seems correct. I see the armature is supposed to be 4.5" long, which mine clearly isn't. Explains the lack of power for sure and why I thought it was odd for the ball to be resting on the sleeve. Yet another wrong part found in this game. Some operator! Sigh.

#3112 4 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Yet another wrong part found in this game. Some operator! Sigh.

fun, right? easy fix. i had the exact same issue on mine.

#3113 4 years ago

Easy fix if i had one, and after just placing a larger order online, I really don't want to drop 10-15 plus shipping on a single part. I get the whole "get it working" mantra of a routed game, but i also believe in get it right when you have the chance to order the broken part. #cheapandfrustrated

#3114 4 years ago

Take a look at my plunger. I guess size does matter.

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#3115 4 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

I got what according to the manual is the proper sleeve and the plunger is still not firing the ball strong enough. I assume I have it assembled correctly? Pointing toward the shooter lane...from top to bottom... the coil, the sleeve with the flange against the bottom of the coil plastic, the coil bracket with the notch around the coil plastic notch, the spring and plunger. It is aligned perfectly centered on the ball. With the assembly fastened together, there is about a 1/4" to 1/2" protrusion of the coil sleeve into the shooter lane.
The first picture shows how far out the armeture protrudes at full plunge, second at normal rest. Maybe I have the wrong armeture? Where should it and the sleeve be at rest relative to the ball and shooter lane? Pics from someone whose is working?

As I mentioned in my previous post, the shooter rod, in some cases, does not have to be perfectly aligned. Yes, you would think that it has to be in the center of the switch but as you can see in the pic mine is off center and it's the only way the ball will make it around the loop. Also, make sure the ball is not making contact with the star post. Having said that this is the part you need....

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#3116 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Take a look at my plunger. I guess size does matter.

Hmmm.... I think your coil is mounted in reverse. There should be a notch on that mounting plate for the nipple on the plastic coil housing to fit into the plate to keep it from rotating when it fires. Look at the pic on my post for reference.

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#3117 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Hmmm.... I think your coil is mounted in reverse. There should be a notch on that mounting plate for the nipple on the plastic coil housing to fit into the plate to keep it from rotating when it fires. Look at the pic on my post for reference.

Funny, it works just fine. Maybe you should flip yours Seriously, I bought it that way. Guess I should reverse it?

#3118 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Funny, it works just fine. Maybe you should flip yours Seriously, I bought it that way. Guess I should reverse it?

Its not that it won't work but when the coil fires the coil will rotate, the nipple and notch prevent that from happening and is less likely to cause an issue like the contacts/wires breaking.

Some old coils will show wear and the nipple is sheared off, so before you flip it, make sure it's still intact.

#3119 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

As I mentioned in my previous post, the shooter rod, in some cases, does not have to be perfectly aligned. Yes, you would think that it has to be in the center of the switch but as you can see in the pic mine is off center and it's the only way the ball will make it around the loop. Also, make sure the ball is not making contact with the star post. Having said that this is the part you need....

Im telling you guys....Tiltmoster is exactly right! Check your upper star post. You need too have the right shooter but also its imperative that the ball is not hitting the double star post on the wat up the lane or it will not make it up. Just loosen the star post and move it to the right as much as you can. And what also helps is if you loosen the metal frame along the shooter lane and teak it so that the ball rolls up a little more to the left it really does help.

#3120 4 years ago

way up i mean

#3121 4 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Easy fix if i had one, and after just placing a larger order online, I really don't want to drop 10-15 plus shipping on a single part. I get the whole "get it working" mantra of a routed game, but i also believe in get it right when you have the chance to order the broken part. #cheapandfrustrated

Yeah, routed games can be patched together because if the machine is down they aren't making money so the operator usually fixes it any way they can so you'll see lots of hacks. In home use it's totally different and all repairs should be done correctly. I believe you're better off spending your money on fixing the pin the right way, with the right parts, including boards and playfield parts. Adding bling to a pin is tempting but if doesn't have good "bones" then you could be setting yourself up for more issues.

Edit:

Marco is out of stock, you could send him an email, they are good about getting back to you...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709

You could try Planetary Pinball but I don't have any experience with them...

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-15709

Good luck!

Edit 2: I would recommend that you buy some extra springs and coil sleeves when you place your order.

#3122 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Yeah, routed games can be patched together because if the machine is down they aren't making money so the operator usually fixes it any way they can so you'll see lots of hacks. In home use it's totally different and all repairs should be done correctly. I believe you're better off spending your money on fixing the pin the right way, with the right parts, including boards and playfield parts. Adding bling to a pin is tempting but if doesn't have good "bones" then you could be setting yourself up for more issues.

You're right and I'm 100% certain the armature is wrong. Measured it. The part is used on other Bally/Williams auto plungers but not HS2. It's almost an inch too short. Will get one ordered because the plunge needs to go around the loop aka Whirlwind style.

I also agree with tiltmasters post. The picture above is definitely mounted wrong.

#3123 4 years ago

I am on my third HS2 right now. The first one was weak with the plunger, bought the right armature online and it would not fit in the game. Everything looked original, so I just rebuilt it and it seemed to work fine. Fast forward to my second HS2, completely went through that game, and the armature I bought for #1 was perfect for #2. The only thing I could come up with was #1 was a re-import.

#3124 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I am on my third HS2 right now. The first one was weak with the plunger, bought the right armature online and it would not fit in the game. Everything looked original, so I just rebuilt it and it seemed to work fine. Fast forward to my second HS2, completely went through that game, and the armature I bought for #1 was perfect for #2. The only thing I could come up with was #1 was a re-import.

These were all made in the USA so being a reimport shouldn't matter, as mine was a reimport (converted back hack free). The main differences should only be in the voltage, the plug and the coin door.

#3125 4 years ago

Jonesing for the mountain...anyone going to repro those again?

#3126 4 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Jonesing for the mountain...anyone going to repro those again?

+1

#3127 4 years ago

Not really a fan of the mountain myself, but I do like the spot light I put under my mountain plastic - really lights up that dark section of the table.

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#3128 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Hmmm.... I think your coil is mounted in reverse.

I reversed it, but still waiting on my new MPU to arrive, so I cannot test it just yet.

#3129 4 years ago

mountain was prototype, right?

#3130 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I reversed it, but still waiting on my new MPU to arrive, so I cannot test it just yet.

Excellent! Good luck with the new board

#3131 4 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

mountain was prototype, right?

Yes, it was a gray mountain on a few machines but then about 2 years ago someone ran them and sold out. You could have purchased them either painted or just the plain gray.

#3132 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not really a fan of the mountain myself, but I do like the spot light I put under my mountain plastic - really lights up that dark section of the table.

Having the mountain hides the spotlight though and doesn't obstruct the light from it, double win

#3133 4 years ago

They only made 100 getaway mountains I really like light inside look awesome

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#3134 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not really a fan of the mountain myself, but I do like the spot light I put under my mountain plastic - really lights up that dark section of the table.

Great minds think alike.

#3135 4 years ago

Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.

#3136 4 years ago

Pinball machines are very high maintenance toys... I strongly suggest that if you have no experience, or at least the core skills (electronics, soldering, use of basic hand tools, etc) to work on pinball machines, that you DONT work it yourself. Buy it with the intention of calling in a local tech to repair it for you if needed, or don't buy it. If the seller is local, perhaps you can ask him about helping you down the road if necessary?

#3137 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Pinball machines are very high maintenance toys... I strongly suggest that if you have no experience, or at least the core skills (electronics, soldering, use of basic hand tools, etc) to work on pinball machines, that you DONT work it yourself. Buy it with the intention of calling in a local tech to repair it for you if needed, or don't buy it. If the seller is local, perhaps you can ask him about helping you down the road if necessary?

Mods are subjective and hopefully they are done tastefully and correctly. You will at some point have to get your hands dirty and fix your pin, fuses, bulbs, rubbers, broken wires.... but before you know it you'll be replacing coils and rebuilding your flippers.

Most of anything can be fixed or replaced, especially with a high run pin like the Getaway. I knew nothing when I bought my Getaway 13 years ago and I can fix just about anything on the table and have done many repairs/fixes.

Just remember, there are plenty of help guides here to refer too or just start a post if you need help. This is a great source for help and I'm sure you'll be fine.

If you have any photos of the pin please post them and we can look it over but always look under the play field and in the back box for burnt connectors and burned out bulbs. Look at the display to see if it's clear and working correctly. Play the game to see if everything works, flippers, pop bumpers, shooter ...

Having said that...Yes, go for it!

#3138 4 years ago

This is the ad for it; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/37974. It's over two hours away from me, so he won't be giving it a warranty. A local guy is warning me about warranties, saying don't get it if it's not covered for 6 months. And he says he will not work on it unless he sold it to me, so I can't get help from him. Another local guy has offered help if I get in trouble with it, and the forum here does seem to be very helpful. I can use a meter, and a soldering iron, and have both. I get that a 24 year old machine is bound to have issues. But if it's gonna have problems every other week, then I'm not sure I want the hassle. My motivation is to have a game room where my kids want to stay home and invite their friends over to play; you know, be the cool place to go. I knew a place like that when I was a teenager, and it was a cool thing. Thanks for the replies.

#3139 4 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

These were all made in the USA so being a reimport shouldn't matter, as mine was a reimport (converted back hack free). The main differences should only be in the voltage, the plug and the coin door.

I know, that is what made mine so odd. And there was no evidence of a hack, just a different coil and plunger than my other 2. Should have taken pictures back when I was working on it. Was really frustrating not being able to find the correct part even though I was ordering exactly what the manual called out for.

#3140 4 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I know, that is what made mine so odd. And there was no evidence of a hack, just a different coil and plunger than my other 2. Should have taken pictures back when I was working on it. Was really frustrating not being able to find the correct part even though I was ordering exactly what the manual called out for.

That is odd... hmmm

#3141 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

This is the ad for it; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/37974. It's over two hours away from me, so he won't be giving it a warranty. A local guy is warning me about warranties, saying don't get it if it's not covered for 6 months. And he says he will not work on it unless he sold it to me, so I can't get help from him. Another local guy has offered help if I get in trouble with it, and the forum here does seem to be very helpful. I can use a meter, and a soldering iron, and have both. I get that a 24 year old machine is bound to have issues. But if it's gonna have problems every other week, then I'm not sure I want the hassle. My motivation is to have a game room where my kids want to stay home and invite their friends over to play; you know, be the cool place to go. I knew a place like that when I was a teenager, and it was a cool thing. Thanks for the replies.

Don't let anyone scare you. These are pretty solid machines, and yes, you do have to fix things from time to time. But most issues are already covered somewhere on Pinside, and there are plenty of good folks here that will help you. Lots of bitchers and whiners too! lol (me included), but pretty much everyone steps up to help out when they see someone in need. So long as the machine has been properly maintained and you do not see a bunch of jumper wires, burned spots, or acid damage on the circuit boards or under the playfield, you should be OK. Go for it and welcome to the addiction...........

#3142 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

This is the ad for it; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/37974. It's over two hours away from me, so he won't be giving it a warranty. A local guy is warning me about warranties, saying don't get it if it's not covered for 6 months. And he says he will not work on it unless he sold it to me, so I can't get help from him. Another local guy has offered help if I get in trouble with it, and the forum here does seem to be very helpful. I can use a meter, and a soldering iron, and have both. I get that a 24 year old machine is bound to have issues. But if it's gonna have problems every other week, then I'm not sure I want the hassle. My motivation is to have a game room where my kids want to stay home and invite their friends over to play; you know, be the cool place to go. I knew a place like that when I was a teenager, and it was a cool thing. Thanks for the replies.

I guess warranties are fine but even new pins don't really cover much nor do they have a long warranty period so I wouldn't worry about that too much. If that local guy won't work on a pin he didn't sell, which is a sales approach he decided to take, I'm sure there is someone out there that will if needed.

The pin looks fine from the pics. The cabinet fade is typical for The Getaway and that can always be replaced if it bothers you. Obviously, it's not going to change how it plays. The price seems fair with the now unavailable Mountain Mod (I'm trying to find one myself), Donut Heaven, flashers (not my thing) and LEDs. You should ask for pics of under the PF, the boards and coin door. The best way to tell is to play the game but at quick glance it looks good.

#3143 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.

Let me try this again: I've owned my Getaway for 13 years, most of the issues have been minor but I have rebuilt the flippers, replaced the coils... I'm a bit crazy about it and have tried to make everything as new as possible. You do not have to do all of that but just know that these parts wear out; however, their life span is very long because they were meant for commercial locations that will get used and abused.

In the home environment you may never have to replace parts but if you do you have to replace them it could be many years down the road and you'll probably never have to do it again. Sure a fuse will blow but that's a good thing because it's saving the board if there's an issue, the rubbers will wear out but if you get good silicone ones they will last years. Plus LED bulbs greatly reduce the load and the heat so your chances of the connectors, plastics and boards going bad are slim.

Don't be concerned about what you're seeing here, this thread is long and The Getaway had a high production run so you're just viewing years of problems, with various owners, all in one place. The Getaway is a very solid, well built Williams pin that will give you years of enjoyment but like a car you'll need to maintain it... my teenage kids have already called dibs on the pins that I own so they will be in the family for a very long time.

#3144 4 years ago

This problem and many others solved! It is like I am playing a whole new pin! Details in three above.

#3145 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

This is the ad for it; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/37974. It's over two hours away from me, so he won't be giving it a warranty. A local guy is warning me about warranties, saying don't get it if it's not covered for 6 months. And he says he will not work on it unless he sold it to me, so I can't get help from him. Another local guy has offered help if I get in trouble with it, and the forum here does seem to be very helpful. I can use a meter, and a soldering iron, and have both. I get that a 24 year old machine is bound to have issues. But if it's gonna have problems every other week, then I'm not sure I want the hassle. My motivation is to have a game room where my kids want to stay home and invite their friends over to play; you know, be the cool place to go. I knew a place like that when I was a teenager, and it was a cool thing. Thanks for the replies.

Not sure what to tell you. Pins can be reliable but there are going to be issues. My Getaway was my first pin and it has been pretty solid. I had a few issues but mostly things just needed adjusting. The worst has been my Congo. I went through all kinds of issues with it from the day I got it. However, once I sorted all the issues out it's been very reliable ever since. I don't particularly enjoy working on pins and don't have a lot of spare time. I rather be playing than fixing. However, it's part of the hobby and rewarding to be able to fix things yourself. The biggest headache is the desire to get more pins. It's never just one.

One thing I will mention when it comes to kids is that I wouldn't get pins for kids. I would get them if you want to play them. My two boys like to play but not that often. My daughter seems to be close to hating pins/arcades from being dragged to different arcades/events. Friends of theirs that come over have some interest in the pins but not that much to play through an entire game. Most of them just hit the start button a bunch of times, launch a few balls, bang the flippers for a bit, then just walk away. They seem to have more interest in video games. Maybe that will change when they get to be older teenagers. Parents that come over rarely show any interest in pins and very few even want to play. At least that has been my experience. The only people I know that like to play are those that I have met in the hobby.

#3146 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.

To brighten your insert plastics of the playfield clean the underside of them with alcohol and lots of Qtips. Clean till the swabs come away clean. A clean game is a happy game.

#3147 4 years ago

I bought my fist pin, a Getway, about six months ago, and if you search through my postings you will see that I've had my share of challenges. I have learned an incredible amount about this device, and have a few things to offer the community. Overall, however, I've never regretted my decision to buy this one, but next.time I think I will pay a little more on a newer pin so that I don't spend so much time working on it (don't get me wrong, it is quite rewarding seeing the results of you efforts, but it can be a time drain).

1. Download the manual and familiarize yourself with the features of gameplay and electronics before you buy the game.
2. Actually play the game to get a feel of how it responds and how everything works.
3. Slide the glass off and manually roll the ball over all the switches and toys
4. Enter the test mode and run through the switch matrix test, perform a supercharger test paying attention to the optos and magnets, and run a supercharger speed test, and the light on top of the back cabinet.
5. Run through the light tests to make sure all lights are functioning. You may not just have a burned out bulb, but could have a deeper issue.
6. Run through the DMD test as these can be expensive and a malfunctioning DMD is quite distracting.
5. Lift and look at the underside of the playfield to see how dirty it may be and any hack repairs.
6. Open the back glass and inspect all circuit boards, especially the MPU for acid damage caused by leaky batteries.

If any of the above raise concerns then reduce your offering accordingly or walk away if there is mor wrong than you can handle. If you do buy the pin, then here are a few words of advice:

1. Transport it correctly. Fold down the backbox with some protection between it and the pin glass when folded, strap it down, and take the legs off. Get plenty of friends to help you move or at least a nice dolly.
2. Be honest with yourself in that you are not done spending money. Personal mods, repairs, new balls, rubbers, glass (if yours has scratches), etc. While it may not be a money pit, pinball is not necessarily a cheap hobby.
3. This forum is your friend and a valuable resource for ideas and resolutions to just about anything you might face with your pin.
4. Take care of your game and do it right. Research and purchase the right products to clean it, wax it, and keep it in good overall working order.
5. Have fun and don't have buyers remorse. You will play your pin like crazy when you first get it then go through a lull. For me, this is when I took the time to learn the rules and worked on achieving the challenges of the table. After six months I still find myself playing a couple of times a week, and sometimes maybe an hour at a time or until I achieve my goal for that session. Pinball is great entertainment and a great escape at times.
6. Contribute to the forum. In addition to the pin itself, I've gotten tons of enjoyment spending time here with others that share my interest with the game, both in the Getaway thread and beyond.
7. Finally, with all of the above stated, this is your pin so personalize it however you want. Don't concern yourself with what others think as long as you like it. If you plan on keeping it forever then pimp it out if you want. If you like it pure, then keep it like the day it came out of the box, or do something I between. Even if you decide to sell it at some point you shouldn't have a problem finding a buyer if it is well kept.

#3148 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

To brighten your insert plastics of the playfield clean the underside of them with alcohol and lots of Qtips. Clean till the swabs come away clean. A clean game is a happy game.

Ditto. Doing this along with a full custom update to LED bulbs made my table "pop", and completely changed the play experience and attractiveness of the pin.

#3149 4 years ago

Getaway Club, if a number of things work, I'm joining the Getaway Club soon, (pending any extreme initiation practices). What I need to know is if it will fit in my Ford Flex to travel 2 hours home. I have plenty of width and depth, but I'm really close on height. I have 31 3/4" height clearance to clear the lift gate. I've been told it is 31" tall with the back cab folded down. Would someone be willing to verify the folded down height of a Getaway? If it doesn't fit, I'd have to make other transportation arrangements. Thanks for the help.

#3150 4 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Help a potential first pin owner out, please. I have a lead on Getaway. I may be getting it this weekend, if the planets align. As a newbie, I'm apprehensive about the potential problems that can go wrong. The person I'm hoping to get it from looks to know what he's doing, and has taken care of this Getaway, and added numerous mods to it. Am I asking for headaches getting this? Do I need an electronics degree to figure out how to fix it? Ideally, it won't have any issues, but by the number of posts on this thread about problems, I am having doubts about buying this pin, or any pin at all, if I'm going to have to be troubleshooting it all the time. Thoughts? Thanks for the input.

getaway is a pretty reliable pin. There are things commonly broke on former routed games... but in the grand scheme its not a basket case game by any means (like StarTrekNG, etc). Usually the divertor on the ramp is beat up.. (it should be floppy to the shaft)... not uncommon for the silver plastics over the supercharger to be busted up. Look at the up/down ramp at the very back of the game.. see if you can tell if the ramp flap is intact, else you'll be fixing that. Look at the inserts all around the hub in the center of the playfield. That many inserts is hard on a playfield and its not uncommon for many games to have chipped, or sunken inserts around there. So check for playfield cracks, edges, wear around the main center and flipper area.

Check if the beacon (red light on top) is intact and working. Was pretty common for that to be busted or removed.

The other stuff is just the common stuff of this generation... fading/failing DMD screens... 5V issues causing reboots during multiball or when voltage dips.

Getaway is a great game for a small or new collection. Music, gameplay, pretty approachable and easy to understand, etc.

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