(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • 9,916 posts
  • 369 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Malenko
  • Topic is favorited by 171 Pinsiders

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There are 9916 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 199.
#3051 3 years ago

Well, I can't be of much more help as my Playfield has apparently been modified.

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#3052 3 years ago

Went back and looked, and the spacer is indeed 1/2" in height. Find the smallest diameter aluminum spacer they have, and make sure it is unthreaded. Most hardware stores have these nut/bolt assortment trays in their store somewhere. Then buy a stainless screw and it will look and work just fine. If you can't find one, let me know....I will be happy to go to the hardware store on my way home and pick two spacers and screws up for you. I would rather do this so you know it will work, rather than guessing on ordering something and having to pay shipping, etc. We can do it here for less than 2 bucks, including postage.

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#3053 3 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Went back and looked, and the spacer is indeed 1/2" in height. Find the smallest diameter aluminum spacer they have, and make sure it is unthreaded. Most hardware stores have these nut/bolt assortment trays in their store somewhere. Then buy a stainless screw and it will look and work just fine. If you can't find one, let me know....I will be happy to go to the hardware store on my way home and pick two spacers and screws up for you. I would rather do this so you know it will work, rather than guessing on ordering something and having to pay shipping, etc. We can do it here for less than 2 bucks, including postage.

HUGE Help, I'm going to run to the hardware store in the morning. Much easier than I anticipated.

#3054 3 years ago

2 things I can't wrap my head around... 1, this setup appears in virtually EVERY Steve Ritchie pin made in the 80's & 90's, and nobody stocks the parts?!? And 2, how many people who own(ed) these games LOSE or remove and discard these pieces!! Even my Getaway was missing both washers when I got it, but thank god both of the spacers were still there!

As far as finding something to substitute, I suggest going to the plumbing dept at Lowe's or HD and look in the area where they have the brass and steel hardline parts, that's gonna be your best bet. Find a length of tubing that's JUST TOO SMALL to fit a #6 sheet metal screw into it, (or better yet, get the #5 screws first and use one to find the right tubing) and cut 2, 1/2" pieces.

Grab some generic #5 (or M4) flat washers, or these: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00002-00

These #5 x 1" screws and you're all set!!: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4205-01016-16

C'mon guys, lets get these games back to the way Steve Ritchie intended!!

#3055 3 years ago
Quoted from thebred:

HUGE Help, I'm going to run to the hardware store in the morning. Much easier than I anticipated.

Just let me know if you have trouble finding them. I will be more than happy to pick some up for you.

#3056 3 years ago

Hey all,

New member of the Getaway club. Just picked up one last evening. Game's in pretty ok shape. Long list of small stuff I have to do to get it in playing shape. In no particular order:

-Bunch of switches are out. Switch matrix seems okay, but will require more investigation.
-Several lights and flashers out
-Game is a re-import, so I need to solder the jumper to change it back to America
-Batteries were replaced, but game resets to factory every time. Will need to investigate the issue.
-DMD is showing early signs of degassing. Also has an audible hum to it which changes depending on what's being displayed (wtf?)

Anyway, looking forward to having it back to playing shape. It's one of the best!

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#3057 3 years ago
Quoted from mattnb:

Hey all,
New member of the Getaway club. Just picked up one last evening. Game's in pretty ok shape. Long list of small stuff I have to do to get it in playing shape. In no particular order:
-Bunch of switches are out. Switch matrix seems okay, but will require more investigation.
-Several lights and flashers out
-Game is a re-import, so I need to solder the jumper to change it back to America
-Batteries were replaced, but game resets to factory every time. Will need to investigate the issue.
-DMD is showing early signs of degassing. Also has an audible hum to it which changes depending on what's being displayed (wtf?)
Anyway, looking forward to having it back to playing shape. It's one of the best!

Welcome! It's a really good pin and one you can just play and have fun. I've had mine for 13 years and been on the fence about selling it or trading it and just can't do it, so I hope you have a similar experience.

Have you ever redone a reimport? Mine was but I'm here in the states so I'm certain it's the same so if it helps here is a link to a thread I made...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reimport-hack-service-outlet-install

#3058 3 years ago
Quoted from mattnb:

Hey all,
New member of the Getaway club. Just picked up one last evening. Game's in pretty ok shape. Long list of small stuff I have to do to get it in playing shape. In no particular order:
-Bunch of switches are out. Switch matrix seems okay, but will require more investigation.
-Several lights and flashers out
-Game is a re-import, so I need to solder the jumper to change it back to America
-Batteries were replaced, but game resets to factory every time. Will need to investigate the issue.
-DMD is showing early signs of degassing. Also has an audible hum to it which changes depending on what's being displayed (wtf?)
Anyway, looking forward to having it back to playing shape. It's one of the best!

Welcome to the club, I hope you get it sorted out soon.

#3059 3 years ago
Quoted from mattnb:

-DMD is showing early signs of degassing. Also has an audible hum to it which changes depending on what's being displayed (wtf?)

same here. i just deal with it. is that an omen of something worse coming?

#3060 3 years ago

This may fall under the category of "stupid questions", but why is it that I can't find any information about switch no. 5647-09557-00? It's the switch used for the left and center trough. My center trough switch seems to be dead and I wanted to order a new one but I can't find that part no. anywhere except in the manual. Is there a suitable replacement?

#3061 3 years ago
Quoted from mattnb:

This may fall under the category of "stupid questions", but why is it that I can't find any information about switch no. 5647-09557-00?

Because that's not the Williams part number... its A-8925, and those 2 switches are only sold as an assembly (B-8925) with the plate and wireforms.
The reason? because the switches themselves are the universal, good ol, everyday "Cherry" brand microswitches, part #5647-09557.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5009-00

#3062 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Because that's not the Williams part number... its A-8925, and those 2 switches are only sold as an assembly (B-8925) with the plate and wireforms.
The reason? because the switches themselves are the universal, good ol, everyday "Cherry" brand microswitches, part #5647-09557.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5009-00

That makes sense. Thanks for clearing that up for me!

#3063 3 years ago

So this happened today. Can anyone recommend a good source for replacement rubbers?

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#3064 3 years ago

Titan Pinball has good cheap multicolor silicones. All I use.

#3066 3 years ago

Joined the club a few weeks ago. I can't get enough of it. I can see this one in my collection for a while.

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#3067 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

Joined the club a few weeks ago. I can't get enough of it. I can see this one in my collection for a while.

Welcome to the club. It's a reimport but from where? Did you get any flooding at your place?

#3068 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

So this happened today. Can anyone recommend a good source for replacement rubbers?

I love Titan too, have them in my games but Pinball Life has the PerfectPlay that I've been using and those are excellent...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=4014

They two are similar and I cannot decide which one I like best. Maybe PerfectPlay's rebound and bounce are slightly closer to regular rubber? Bottom line, you can't go wrong with either one

#3069 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

Joined the club a few weeks ago. I can't get enough of it. I can see this one in my collection for a while.

Welcome! Have fun, it's a very good pin!

#3070 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to the club. It's a reimport but from where? Did you get any flooding at your place?

How would I figure out where it came from? Any markings would be there

#3071 3 years ago

I have done a full circle on flipper rubbers. Tried the different types but back to using original rubbers. Cheap and play the best. Better grip and find that I can control the ball better.

#3072 3 years ago

Titan has two sizes of flipper rubber, I use the thin on bottom for more control and the standard on top

#3073 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

How would I figure out where it came from? Any markings would be there

On my TFTC there was a sticker on the service outlet box, it was from Argentina.

#3074 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

How would I figure out where it came from? Any markings would be there

The most obvious is usually the coin reject buttons... And you can step thru the pricing adjustments and see what country option comes up other than USA, unless the ROM has been changed since it's been back.
My Whirlwind is a re-import from Germany, but I converted everything back to US stuff, nobody would ever know.

#3075 3 years ago

Sticker with serial number 1st clue. Volts 220 2nd clue. Coin door 3rd clue. Pop the play field and look at the transformer for cut wires and wire nuts 4th clue.

#3076 3 years ago

Voltage and wire nuts wont tell him what country it came from...

#3077 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Voltage and wire nuts wont tell him what country it came from...

Ha... yeah, misread the question.

#3078 3 years ago

I'm having an opto problem that I'm hoping someone can help with. I moved my Getaway from the garage to the house and now the optos are not working. I get an error that says that I need to check Opto1, Opto 2, Opto 3...basically all of the optos. I checked the opto board and see that none of the LED lights are on. Should they be? Any ideas on what to try next? As a side note, some of my GI is out now, too. A seemingly random string of GI lights, e.g. top left sling, bottom right sling, bottom pop bumper. Thanks in advance for any help.

#3079 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I'm having an opto problem that I'm hoping someone can help with. I moved my Getaway from the garage to the house and now the optos are not working. I get an error that says that I need to check Opto1, Opto 2, Opto 3...basically all of the optos. I checked the opto board and see that none of the LED lights are on. Should they be? Any ideas on what to try next? As a side note, some of my GI is out now, too. A seemingly random string of GI lights, e.g. top left sling, bottom right sling, bottom pop bumper. Thanks in advance for any help.

Check ALL the relevant plug connectors for a start, i haven't got my manual at the moment so i can't tell you which ones sorry. Loose plugs are a common thing to happen after a machine move especially if you've had the back box down.

#3080 3 years ago

There is a really big connector under the playfield under the supercharger where all those optos hook up. Your supercharger is most likely disconnected.

#3081 3 years ago

Just picked up a filthy but fully working Getaway. Full strip down, cleaned 8 rags worth of grime, new rubbers, flippers awesome, she plays better than any I've ever played with one exception. The plunger. I think I aligned it correctly and put on a new coil sleeve, but the ball still doesn't feed all the way around the loop. It makes it to about the top of the pops and that's it. Any ideas?

#3082 3 years ago

make sure you have the right plunger part. it's different for HS2. it's biiig.

#3083 3 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Just picked up a filthy but fully working Getaway. Full strip down, cleaned 8 rags worth of grime, new rubbers, flippers awesome, she plays better than any I've ever played with one exception. The plunger. I think I aligned it correctly and put on a new coil sleeve, but the ball still doesn't feed all the way around the loop. It makes it to about the top of the pops and that's it. Any ideas?

I had a similar issue with a new coil, for whatever reason it didn't launch the ball around the loop but when I put in another coil the same thing occurred. Turns out that my shooter looked liked it was aligned correctly but it was causing the ball to hit the star post just enough to slow it down... you may have to play with the alignment even if it looks right. Having said that one of the coils didn't launch it around the loop so I assumed the coil was bad.

#3084 3 years ago
Quoted from Zukboy2002:

How would I figure out where it came from? Any markings would be there

The serial number sticker will clearly id it.. as well as stickers identifying 220Hz, etc. The coin door is different (3 slots vs 2).. and usually the coin reject inserts are still there from the foreign country.

You may also find the jumpers on the CPU board have already been cut for other countries too

#3085 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

The most obvious is usually the coin reject buttons... And you can step thru the pricing adjustments and see what country option comes up other than USA, unless the ROM has been changed since it's been back.
My Whirlwind is a re-import from Germany, but I converted everything back to US stuff, nobody would ever know.

Jumpers on the board.. not ROM deltas in this era of game.

#3086 3 years ago
Quoted from wxforecaster:

Just picked up a filthy but fully working Getaway. Full strip down, cleaned 8 rags worth of grime, new rubbers, flippers awesome, she plays better than any I've ever played with one exception. The plunger. I think I aligned it correctly and put on a new coil sleeve, but the ball still doesn't feed all the way around the loop. It makes it to about the top of the pops and that's it. Any ideas?

Like others have said.. check the coil sleeve part. It has a sleeve that has extensions outside the coil.. it's not a common sleeve and hence is often changed out for incorrect ones.

#3087 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Check ALL the relevant plug connectors for a start, i haven't got my manual at the moment so i can't tell you which ones sorry. Loose plugs are a common thing to happen after a machine move especially if you've had the back box down.

I wanted to make an update, I was able to fix the opto issue. When I put the head down to move the machine, it pulled on some wires, causing one of the wires on the main power board to pop out of the connector. I pushed it back down with a small screwdriver and was able to get power back to those boards which took care of the problem. Thanks for giving me a place to start.

#3088 3 years ago

I've had a few requests for different artwork I have done and other resources, so I decided to put everything in a simple to reference webpage. Nothing fancy here, just click on the link and download the zip file. Most all artwork is in Photoshop format and PDF format (some things are just JPEG). Please take a look, and grab whatever you want: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/GetawayPinball

#3089 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've had a few requests for different artwork I have done and other resources, so I decided to put everything in a simple to reference webpage. Nothing fancy here, just click on the link and download the zip file. Most all artwork is in Photoshop format and PDF format (some things are just JPEG). Please take a look, and grab whatever you want: http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/GetawayPinball

Now that's the club spirit. Thanks.

#3090 3 years ago

I've had the Mezel ignition switch on my pin for a few months, but today it stopped working. The light still illuminates but it will not start a game. Also, in the switch test it shows as open and will not close. Unfortunately, I cannot find what I did with the original start button (probably threw it away) any ideas? Also, I have fully cycled power and unplugged/plugged both connectors on the switch.

Also, just tried to "jumpstart" by manually touching two starter wires but nothing happens (I am assuming this would close the circuit).

#3091 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've had the Mezel ignition switch on my pin for a few months, but today it stopped working. The light still illuminates but it will not start a game. Also, in the switch test it shows as open and will not close. Unfortunately, I cannot find what I did with the original start button (probably threw it away) any ideas? Also, I have fully cycled power and unplugged/plugged both connectors on the switch.
Also, just tried to "jumpstart" by manually touching two starter wires but nothing happens (I am assuming this would close the circuit).

If you shorted the contacts and the game still didnt start, its not the switch. Start tracing wires are running switch tests.

#3092 3 years ago

I have posted in tech forum. At this point I've even jumped the pins on J212 and neither the start nor tilt work but coin door does. Removed CPU board and everything looks good. More info in tech forum, but I am at a loss.

#3093 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I have posted in tech forum. At this point I've even jumped the pins on J212 and neither the start nor tilt work but coin door does. Removed CPU board and everything looks good. More info in tech forum, but I am at a loss.

Your problem is with switch matrix column #1 (J206, Pin 1) your 4 freeway switches probably aren't working either. But if they are, you likely just have a broken or disconnected common wire (green w/brown stripe) somewhere in the circuit. If none of those switches work either, your U20 probably died.

#3094 3 years ago

Regarding cabinet decals, I got my White Water ones from Retro Refurbs in the UK. Their decals are amazing and I actually prefer them to the NG2 ones to be honest.

They have The Getaway, has anybody on here bought them?

#3095 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Your problem is with switch matrix column #1 (J206, Pin 1) your 4 freeway switches probably aren't working either. But if they are, you likely just have a broken or disconnected common wire (green w/brown stripe) somewhere in the circuit. If none of those switches work either, your U20 probably died.

Just tested, and you are correct in that my 4 freeway switches are not working. However, I do have continuity on green/brown from start to J212 on MPU. What/where is U20.

#3096 3 years ago

Below battery holder. ULN2803

From Pinwiki:

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#3097 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Your problem is with switch matrix column #1 (J206, Pin 1) your 4 freeway switches probably aren't working either. But if they are, you likely just have a broken or disconnected common wire (green w/brown stripe) somewhere in the circuit. If none of those switches work either, your U20 probably died.

Also, where is J206? I see one on MPU board to the right of J212 but it has no pins/connections?

#3098 3 years ago

Great, pic is worth 1000 words. However, my J206 and J208 do not have any pins or connections to them. It does not appear that there are any loose wires/connectors in the area, so is this normal?

#3099 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

J206 and J208 do not have any pins or connections to them

These are not used on The Getaway machine as far as i know. Sure not used on my machine although my board does have pins at those locations.

#3100 3 years ago

Here is mine.

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