Have any of you guys done any paint repairs to your Playfield? I've posted in vid's guide, but looking for someone with experience on our pin (eg colors you used, techniques, etc.) I have issues with black, blue, orange, and yellow. I am especially interested in how you have addressed the yellow stoplights as this seems too detailed for me just to hand paint.

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The metal part? It's a metal post. You'll need to get a new t nut if so with the same thread as the bottom post of the new one. Measure the length of the thread on the top and the bottom. Appears to be 8/32 thread on top and same for the bottom from my pictures.

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I did quite a bit of touchup to mine, then mylar'd the PF. Nobody can ever find or see where I touched up, but yours is in way WAY worse condition than mine was!!
Get yourself the standard 11 color palette Testors gloss paints... Yellow, Orange, Red, Light Blue, Dark Blue, Black, White, and a set of insert decals. The problem is, the colors were a dead match when the game was made, but you have some major fade, so you'll be mixing most of the core colors with dabs of white & black to get a good match. Its a trial and error process that requires patience and a very steady hand!
Level any rasied inserts first, then paint work, then the insert decals, then put a pre-cut mylar (got mine from Marco) over the whole thing, it'll look like new again!

Onyest: makes complete sense. Thank you

Indeed! Good luck getting the broken screw out.. love to know how the hell that even happened!

Thanks for the great advice. BTW, the playfield is really not faded, just appears that way with phone camera through the pin glass, so I don't think the matching will be too difficult. Also, you mention Testors, but Vid's guide says not to use those, but Creatix airbrush paints. If you had success, that is good to hear. Did you clear coat any of it or just Mylar? Also, where did you get the insert decals?

Has anyone ever seen or made decals for the 3 playfield stop lights (ie the fine black lines that makeup the detailed outlines)?

Yes use water based paints non solvent based paints.

I have always used Testors, never had a problem or negative results by brush or airbrush. To each his own I guess, and i'm a big believer in mylar, it lasts MUCH longer and is more durable than clearcoat... Your playfield was Diamond Plated. look at it now! Its not really even feasible to use clearcoat unless you're doing a full strip-down restoration of your playfield. I didnt need the insert decals, I just painted the lines, but again, mine was nowhere near as worn as yours. I believe LSOG has them in stock, and probably Classic Arcades. They will help you bigtime because they have the border colors and black outlines on them... Also, someone was making a full overlay a ways back, I dont know if they're still available, but you might look into that.

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I agree it's each to his own BUT to be fair, those diamond coat playfield machines have mostly all been used on site and over the years have had literally thousand's of plays. Mylar is durable, yes, BUT it's also got a nasty habit of lifting/bubbling over time. The favourable time difference between the clear coat wearing out and the first lifting of mylar is in my opinion on clear coats side. If it comes down to having a decent clear coat as opposed to using mylar across the whole playfield then i prefer the former.

All very good points, but what causes mylar to lift and bubble, which is almost always over the inserts, is heat from the incandescent bulbs, particularly in routed games that are turned on 8-24 hours a day. I use 100% LED's in all my games, and they are only turned on when i'm playing them... No longer an issue.

Yes the heat causes the glue on the mylar to dry and harden virtually baking the glue on. I have a BoP pf that I was going to redo, the full sheet mylar just pealed off with no heat or cold method and virtually no paint loss but the baked on glue was a REAL problem, it was hard as a rock and I wound up taking paint off the pf trying to get it off. The inserts will have to be taken out of the pf, sanded flat and put back in. It was to much bs for me so I bought a new pf.

Don't blame you one bit! Unless you're retired and have tons of free time, or you do PF restorations for a living and have a proper shop, its just too huge of a project, I would just replace the PF also. You can always tell how used and how much time a game has spent being turned on, by the severity of the OEM mylar bubbling and insert crazing. Typically those are the games I avoid buying in the first place... Unless its a killer deal and I intend to do a PF swap from the word sold.

Been enjoying my Getaway but with game after game after game a couple minor problems popped up.

The flipper button on the left is harder to press in than the one of the right. How do I make it go in more smoothly/easily?

The ramp for the lock is going up and down randomly at times. It works fine but sometimes it just has a mind of its own. Why?

The plunger isn't as strong as it once was. The same with the kickback. How do I resolve this?

Somebody may have replaced that flipper button with one that has a spring in it, pull the E-clip and remove the internal button and see if there's a spring in there, if there is, remove it.
Check the switch on the ramp, make sure the mounting screws are not loose and that the actuator is bent correctly so that it absolutely closes the switch when the ramp is down... This switch adjustment is a common issue.
As far as the weak coils, there's a number of things that can cause this, but I would start with the easy stuff and replace the sleeves and springs and make sure you have good solid solder joints on the coil lugs. If the wire braid is breaking apart, cut the wire back and resolder it. And if any of the coils have a diode, replace it.

flipper buttons get dirty. any part that human hands touch, basically. try taking it apart and cleaning. the spring could have gotten out of position, too. doubt it though.

are you sure it's random? it'll go up to allow orbit shots coming in from the right to not get stuck, and it goes up on new ball plunges.

check for loose screws on assembly/bracket parts. make sure everything is tight. check coil sleeves for sludge. stuff like that.

Been working on some touchup paint with the worst spots on my playfield, so I thought I would share my experience in matching colors. To begin with, I used Createx opaque colors as recommended by Vid in his guide. I also took advice from those of you in this thread. I will admit, I could have gone into a much more detailed restoration, but quite frankly I was not up for that. I just wanted to improve the worst spots and continue on with enjoying the game.

For my repairs, I needed to match black, bright blue, neon orange, and yellow for the areas I wanted to repair. Here is what I discovered given my playfield condition (which I would consider to be good pertaining with minimal, if any fading) and the Createx airbrush paints (I used a regular brush to apply and cured with a heat gun between coats)

- Black: Used the black straight out of the bottle
- Bright/Light Blue (inner line around Free Ride & other inserts): Mixed 4 drops Opaque Blue with 2 drops Opaque White and it was a dead on match for me
- Fluorescent Orange (outer line around Free Ride & other inserts): Mixed 15 drops Fluorescent Orange with 1 drop Opaque White and it too was a dead on match
- Yellow (stoplights): No matter what I tried, I could not hit this color. I experimented like crazy but could never achieve the every slight goldish yellow color. I finally gave up, tried decals and failed, and now I am trying stickers (I plan on covering with Mylar).

After curing all paint, I double top-coated with Createx gloss clear, rewaxed with Carnauba, and voila - a much improved look for my pin.

While my work is far from perfect, it is significantly better than what it was before. I may take some time later to work on the lines a little more around the Free Ride, but I did my best for now.

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It may be far from perfect but it's certainly better than I could do! Kudos to you from having the courage to go for it in the first place. It certainly looks better than before and you can only get better with more experience.

Hey not bad, sooooo much better then before and you stopped the wear and that's really important.

I hope you have these for doing that or any kind of close work on your game. They are a MUST HAVE!

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I sure could have used one of these. Will have to pick one up before my next round of touchups.

You'll find you can much finer detailed work with these.

I bought a Getaway that does not have a working super charger, is there a link somewhere to rebuild this?

Per the one and only Mr. TNT - Todd Tuckey:
"COLD COLD COLD SOLDER JOINTS"

Start by reflowing the solder joints on all the wiring to the super charger magnets and optos.

Search through this thread for the term "supercharger". My issues involved replacing fuses and some of the optos. There are also instructions for testing the optos and magnets via the pin's test menu.

Thanks.

I checked the button and there weren't any springs. Just seemed to be dirty. Gave it a little spray of WD40 and it's perfect now.

However, even when the button is pushed down all the way sometimes the flipper gets interrupted as if a circuit isn't staying complete. So say I'm keeping a ball on the left flipper suddenly the flipper will go down as if I released the button even though I didn't.

Any idea why this is?

How do the leaf switches look? I replaced mine because part of the wood spacers fell apart and they weren't working correctly. Probably a good 2nd step...

The leaf switches look good to me but I'm a noob and have no idea what to look for. Should I try bending it toward the button maybe?

When you depress the flipper button it should force the leaf switch to make contact, I suppose it could be something as simple as that but if you can post a few photos of your flipper mechs and coils and one of your leaf switches we could have a closer look.

If it were me I'd...

Try a switch test on the flipper.

Look at the solder joints and wires to make sure everything is making good contact.

A flipper rebuild may be in order if it's not been done already, sleeves and coils... I doubt springs or mechs would cause that issue.

Beyond that I'd have to look at my schematics to see where these go into the board but make sure there are no burnt molex connectors or loose pins on the board just to be sure everything is making good contact because a blown fuse would kill them completely.

Baby steps here, some things are obvious and others take a little leg work to sort out but in the end I'm sure we can get you all squared away.

As a follow-up to my previous touch-up paint post, I've completed my stoplights. No matter what I did, I could not match the color with paint, and I failed with decals. My fix? Design a comparable stoplight in Photoshop and print on a sheet of label paper followed by two light coats of clear spray enamel. I then cut out with a razor knife and straight edge, went around all edges with black Sharpie, then stuck to the playfield as precisely as possible. Finally, I covered each of the stop lights with 3 mil Mylar for protection and to smooth out some of the bumpiness, and now things are significantly better. Not a perfect job, but I am quite satisfied given what I started with (see pics below). I'm happy to share my Photoshop files if anyone is interested in following in my footsteps.

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That looks good.

better is better.

They have come up pretty good Mr T I'm still surprised at just how much wear there was around those stoplight inserts though, must have copped a flogging in the past, makes you wonder just how many plays that particular play field/machine had out in the wild.

and how often they changed the balls and waxed it.

Too True MP and my guess is NEVER waxed and the balls were as rusty as my ........

Too True MP and my guess is NEVER waxed and the balls were as rusty as my ........

ARGGGHHHH double post, bloody tricky mouse button FFS!!!!

Must be late where you are.

YUP, 2am and the Bourbons have been going down the hatch all too well, lol

This is my first pin, and I was researching and trying to track down a pin in my budget for quite some time. When I finally found this one, There were many little issues: electrical, mechanical, lighting, surface, etc., but I've really enjoyed learning and fixing everything myself along with adding several of my own mods. While my next pin will be much more play ready, I am glad I've gone through this experience and appreciate pinball that much more because of it.

A true Pinhead if you ask me !!!!

That's GREAT to hear.

IDK, if you are now more comfortable working on a pin because of that experience maybe you should look for a better value and fix it up, that's what I've done and in the long run it would save you some cash.

My Getaway is missing both 'bits' in the area pictured and I'm not quite sure which replacement posts to purchase from Marcos - can anyone help me out with a part number? Thank you!

Are those 02-4020 Support Posts (see page 2-36 of the Getaway manual which shows qty 2 of these on the board)? If so, a few searches on common sites seem like they are hard to find.

I was hoping they might be 02-4425-1 - which might be possible. The manual says there are only two of those.

I don't think they are 02-4425-1 (at least in my opinion). While I am not at home to look at my pin, from all the pics I've seen, these appear to be bored threaded posts with a screw/bolt at top, a washer at bottom, and most likely a screw/bolt/washer on the underside. If I remember, I will take a look when I get home tonight to confirm (or maybe someone else can look at theirs before then?).

Thanks, that would be a huge help. Didn't realize it would be this tough locating replacements. haha.

While not Williams part number, take a look at this: http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=HWR71SET

So, maybe the spacer is not threaded and maybe that's a wood screw used to secure it. All speculation at this point, but I will attempt to verify on my pin.

Okay, that has to be the right part. Here is what else I found:

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=02-4020 (OEM part out of stock, but matches description and states it was used in Getaway HS2)

Non-OEM is http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=HWR71

And my previous post is the full assembly that includes the HWR71 (screw, spacer, washer).

I believe the spacer sits under the metal ball deflector and needs to be one half inch in height? Measure it, go to an ACE hardware and go to the bolt section and look for aluminum spacers. You can get one 1/2" or 3/4" in height for about 60 cents. Then buy a wood screw and washer that fit, and you are good for less than a dollar. That is how I did it. My posts were missing as well when I bought the machine.