(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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There are 9861 posts in this topic. You are on page 58 of 198.
#2851 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

With the supercharger connected, run through testing of the optos, magnets, and diverter. Like tiltmonster says, errors that the game reports may not mean anything. You need to verify that each switch and part is working one at a time. Hard to do that during gameplay when everything is active.

So its OK to reconnect the SC and try again?

The thing is that its not just the errors, the game was resetting when pressing any flipper or launch shifter, and diverter during game mode. I'm 100% sure I connected them the correct way. Thanks

#2852 3 years ago

Well I have an update....plugged the SC back in and did a SC opto test and they all passed. Did a SC time test and the speed got a lot better, 103 I believe. Played a few games, no resets and everything normal.

Placed the glass back on and decided to play one more game. Started "revving the engine" with both flippers and lauched the ball...then hit the ball with right flipper and got a damn reset again! Started another game with the glass off to test shooting the ball with my hand. No resets with flipper, then shot the ball up the SC, another reset!

It looks like it has nothing to do with the SC connectors at all. There is something making a false connection or something along those lines. Besides resetting the ribbon cables, what do you guys think might be the problem causing this resets?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

On a separete note: I wanted to thank all of you for helping me getting through my first real shop job! You guys really know your stuff and I have learned a lot! Thanks again!

#2853 3 years ago

Ok guys, i think I may have finally found the issue! About 2 weeks ago, I purchased a portable AC unit for my garage where I have my Getaway. Of course the machine has been torn apart form the last 2 weeks for the shop job and just barely started playing it with the AC on. I read on a different thread that sometimes resets are caused by voltage drops in the outlet. I checked the outlet with AC on and gave me 120, turned AC off gave me 115. Played the machine with the AC off and no more resets in 3 games that I played! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping I did in fact found the solution. Will keep testing it tomorrow Thanks!

#2854 3 years ago

Typo! I meant to say, Outlet with AC OFF gave me 120, outlet with AC ON, gave me 115

#2855 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Ok guys, i think I may have finally found the issue! About 2 weeks ago, I purchased a portable AC unit for my garage where I have my Getaway. Of course the machine has been torn apart form the last 2 weeks for the shop job and just barely started playing it with the AC on. I read on a different thread that sometimes resets are caused by voltage drops in the outlet. I checked the outlet with AC on and gave me 120, turned AC off gave me 115. Played the machine with the AC off and no more resets in 3 games that I played! Keeping fingers crossed and hoping I did in fact found the solution. Will keep testing it tomorrow Thanks!

This is a fact...

A while back I was getting a reset on my pin when my nephew would mash both flippers at the same time, there are other issues that could cause a reset from doing that, but on occasion a reset would occur with a single flip too

#2856 3 years ago

Glad you got it figured out.

#2857 3 years ago

Thanks guys!

#2858 3 years ago

Hmmmm, with all leds in your game it should be using way less power.

#2859 3 years ago

Low voltage is low voltage... the spike from coils dwarfs any light savings.

The line voltage can be changed to the low tap... Or just get rob kahr's board which will also give a clean 5v

#2860 3 years ago

Just found the receipt! AC unit going back to Lowe's!

#2861 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Low voltage is low voltage... the spike from coils dwarfs any light savings.
The line voltage can be changed to the low tap... Or just get rob kahr's board which will also give a clean 5v

Even with the AC ON?

#2862 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Low voltage is low voltage... the spike from coils dwarfs any light savings.
The line voltage can be changed to the low tap... Or just get rob kahr's board which will also give a clean 5v

Can you please explain to me how to change line to the low tap? What is that all about?

#2863 3 years ago

My quesion is....How come my other machines aren't affected by the low voltage?

#2864 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

My quesion is....How come my other machines aren't affected by the low voltage?

Its just about thresholds... The electronics on the driver board can be more on the edge depending on their age and health. You find all the time some examples are just more sensitive than others. The wpc system is notorious for this. Rob's board generates the 5v using a modern regulator off the 12v system that is less fickle.

Low tap is changing which windings off the transformer the game is wired to. Should be covered in the manual. It can help in some situations.

You might just find that your highspeed is on the edge with its driver board 5v system.

#2865 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Its just about thresholds... The electronics on the driver board can be more on the edge depending on their age and health. You find all the time some examples are just more sensitive than others. The wpc system is notorious for this. Rob's board generates the 5v using a modern regulator off the 12v system that is less fickle.
Low tap is changing which windings off the transformer the game is wired to. Should be covered in the manual. It can help in some situations.
You might just find that your highspeed is on the edge with its driver board 5v system.

I will check out the manual for sure. Now, this Rob board you talk about: If I buy one, will I be able to play the game with the AC on and low voltage just by using this board? Where can I find it? This is the driver board we are talking about correct? Thanks!

#2866 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Just found the receipt! AC unit going back to Lowe's!

How many btu is it? Try a 5000 btu.

#2867 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

How many btu is it? Try a 5000 btu.

Its a 12,000 btu. My garage is big....

#2868 3 years ago

We get high temps of 107 here all the time...sometimes 110

#2869 3 years ago

Do you only have the one pin in this garage with your AC unit? What else have you got normally drawing power in there besides lights?

#2870 3 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Do you only have the one pin in this garage with your AC unit? What else have you got normally drawing power in there besides lights?

Basically just lights. All my other pins I keep turned Off while I play one. Its basically just lights and the portable AC unit. Thanks!

#2871 3 years ago

Of course, also the main house AC unit

#2872 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

I will check out the manual for sure. Now, this Rob board you talk about: If I buy one, will I be able to play the game with the AC on and low voltage just by using this board? Where can I find it? This is the driver board we are talking about correct? Thanks!

What you're referring to is the WPC daughterboard by Rob Kahr. I recently installed the WPC daughterboard on my routed Getaway (was resetting sometimes when other things were running on the same circuit) and it seems to have cured the reset problem. Nice potential solution for around $40. Attached is a picture of the daughterboard, the simple installation instructions, and Rob's card with the website for ordering.

WPC_daughterboard_(resized).jpg

#2873 3 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

What you're referring to is the WPC daughterboard by Rob Kahr. I recently installed the WPC daughterboard on my routed Getaway (was resetting sometimes when other things were running on the same circuit) and it seems to have cured the reset problem. Nice potential solution for around $40. Attached is a picture of the daughterboard, the simple installation instructions, and Rob's card with the website for ordering.

Thank you very much sir! Will look into it!

#2874 3 years ago

So everything is back on the playfield. Turn the game on and I had a ton of errors involving opto 1-3 switches 81-5 were bad.

Then the lower right flipper fires and then stays up.

I turn off the game and reseat some connectors. I turn the game back on and I either get this high pitch whine or loud feedback from the speakers and the ColorDMD is all scrambled.

I'm at a loss here. Anyone have any suggestions?

#2875 3 years ago

I noticed the LED 3 light is not lit if that helps. The game turns on, led 3 lights up and then immediately turns off

image_(resized).jpeg

#2876 3 years ago

Ok I reseated a ribbon and the dmd issue is back to normal.

Still having all the errors plus the game starts to fire all the flippers which results in the lower right flipper sticking up.

Edit: had another connector in the wrong place so all but opto 1 is working. That base for that opto was broken by the chrome shop or Mike disassembling the supercharger and it'll be replaced.

#2877 3 years ago

Now also realizing with the chrome job, all the metal pieces are just milimeters bigger in size but it's impacting me nonetheless.

Many of the threads had to be tapped to put screws back through.

The biggest issue its the back ramp that raises. It's not raising all the way. Only thing I can tell is it won't raise all the way because both the corner ramp and the ramp that raises are both slightly larger thus not allowing it to reach its full height. It's that or something mechanical preventing the rod in the back from locking forward to fully raise the ramp.

Full regret mode!

I'm taking it to a buds shop to have him redo the cabinet decals and the cabinet itself. He's also going to rebuild all three flippers and put in new targets. I'll have him address the back ramp as well.

image_(resized).jpg
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#2878 3 years ago

sorry, brah.

#2879 3 years ago

I had issues with opto 1 yesterday. Did a full test on all the componets and it went away. Do a full test on the optos and SC. See if everyrhing works in test mode first

I was having resets issues last night. It was due to a new portable AC unit that was dropping the voltage. AC turned off, no more resets

#2880 3 years ago

Sorry about your chrome job! You are correct, the chrome job probably messed how everything fits...hope you can figure it out

#2881 3 years ago

Reseat connector J101

#2882 3 years ago

Have any of you installed this around the beacon? I bought one, just haven't installed it yet.

231671957787_1_(resized).jpg

#2883 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

So everything is back on the playfield. Turn the game on and I had a ton of errors involving opto 1-3 switches 81-5 were bad.
Then the lower right flipper fires and then stays up.
I turn off the game and reseat some connectors. I turn the game back on and I either get this high pitch whine or loud feedback from the speakers and the ColorDMD is all scrambled.
I'm at a loss here. Anyone have any suggestions?

Last time I had my DMD like that, full od dots everywhere, my power supply was completely fried. May not be your issue. Just trying to help out

#2884 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Its a 12,000 btu. My garage is big....

Well there ya go right there, a 12000btu should be on it's own 20 amp. You should know that.

#2885 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Well there ya go right there, a 12000btu should be on it's own 20 amp. You should know that.

Well not really, I'm not an electrician....JK sir I must admit, I had a suspicion or concern that something like that could happen, but since my other pins were not affected, I sort of didn't pay attention to the voltage issue. But I'm happy to report Getaway so far plays like a champ and the left loop around to the up and down ramp goes thru almost every time! Thanks!

#2886 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Have any of you installed this around the beacon? I bought one, just haven't installed it yet.

Not that exact one but mine had this when I bought it 13 years ago...

Mars_Lamp_(resized).jpg

#2887 3 years ago

Anyone know of a source for the "Getaway and car" banner decal that goes on the side of the upper ramp? Getting down to the last phases of a complete rebuild and thought I would replace my faded one.

#2888 3 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

Anyone know of a source for the "Getaway and car" banner decal that goes on the side of the upper ramp? Getting down to the last phases of a complete rebuild and thought I would replace my faded one.

If you mean the Supercharger loop decal, Marco had them at one point but I haven't seen them available for a while... sorry.

#2889 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

If you mean the Supercharger loop decal, Marco had them at one point but I haven't seen them available for a while... sorry.

Someone on here was making them, I would have to search back through the posts as I bought them when they were available. Was about 9 months ago or so.

#2890 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Not that exact one but mine had this when I bought it 13 years ago...

That is the one from the original High Speed, very similar. Can you take a picture of how it is mounted?

#2891 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

That is the one from the original High Speed, very similar. Can you take a picture of how it is mounted?

I figured it was but I liked it and left it on....

topper_2_(resized).jpg

topper_(resized).jpg

topper_3_(resized).jpg

#2892 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I figured it was but I liked it and left it on....

Thank you sir!

#2893 3 years ago

I have a used HS2 translite with a few scratches. I replaced with a new one. I have front and rear pix and close-ups of the primary scratches. $30 shipped in the U.S. If interested, PM me and I'll send pix and payment info.

#2894 3 years ago

I've read several posts on this Getaway Club thread regarding the rear lift ramp not working properly. My lift ramp is staying locked in the up position. After going in the switch edge test the switch is working properly. When going into the lift ramp test, the large solenoid engages which is for the up position but I do not hear the small coil fire for the release: SM1-28-900-DC. When I manually release the plate from the the notch it does position the ramp down. So there is no apparent binding between the shaft, ramp and solenoids.

I'm guessing it's an issue with the SM1-28-900-DC coil. All soldering looks clean to it's lugs. Not familiar with this type of coil since it's so small. Because of it's location it's hard to determine whether the coil operates with a mini plunger or it's a magnet pulse that trips the plate to the down position.

Anyone that has knowledge or has experienced this particular issue on their Getaway, I would really appreciate some feedback.

Thanks in advance!

#2895 3 years ago

I can tell you the coil does not use a mini-plunger. It just sucks the plate down that trips the lock and drops the ramp. You can check the resistance of the coil, and check the diode if there is one on the coil.

#2896 3 years ago

Can someone do me a favor and take a look on their audio board at J504 and tell me if there is a black/yellow speaker wire there and which spot it goes into ? During my tear down one of my speaker wires came off and i pretty sure thats where it goes but want to be sure.

#2897 3 years ago

Hope this helps you.

IMG_0911_(resized).JPG

#2898 3 years ago
Quoted from nvu4prod:

I've read several posts on this Getaway Club thread regarding the rear lift ramp not working properly. My lift ramp is staying locked in the up position. After going in the switch edge test the switch is working properly. When going into the lift ramp test, the large solenoid engages which is for the up position but I do not hear the small coil fire for the release: SM1-28-900-DC. When I manually release the plate from the the notch it does position the ramp down. So there is no apparent binding between the shaft, ramp and solenoids.
I'm guessing it's an issue with the SM1-28-900-DC coil. All soldering looks clean to it's lugs. Not familiar with this type of coil since it's so small. Because of it's location it's hard to determine whether the coil operates with a mini plunger or it's a magnet pulse that trips the plate to the down position.
Anyone that has knowledge or has experienced this particular issue on their Getaway, I would really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks in advance!

So when you run the T:Test, T14:Ramp test, the ramp fails to move up and down?

#2899 3 years ago

Thanks Kawydud.
Thats weird, upon close inspection of my board, I have a solid black wire on the 2nd connection in from the left on J505 where yours has the black/yellow on the 3rd connection in from the left on J505. I also just noticed that i can see where the wire broke off on J504 on my board and its the 2nd connection in from the right and it would be my black/yellow wire where yours shows a solid black wire on J504 and its the 3rd connection in from the right. Anyone know why that would be the case ?

#2900 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Thanks Kawydud.
Thats weird, upon close inspection of my board, I have a solid black wire on the 2nd connection in from the left on J505 where yours has the black/yellow on the 3rd connection in from the left on J505. I also just noticed that i can see where the wire broke off on J504 on my board and its the 2nd connection in from the right and it would be my black/yellow wire where yours shows a solid black wire on J504 and its the 3rd connection in from the right. Anyone know why that would be the case ?

Yeah, all this can be a real pain in the butt and it's why I'm a firm believer that everyone should have a copy of the schematics and the operation manuals for their pin, and if your table didn't come with them you should try to download them or buy a copy. Hopefully these will help...

schematic_504_(resized).jpg

pin_504_(resized).jpg

pin_504-2_(resized).jpg

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