(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Mr_Tantrum
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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 198.
#2801 3 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

You seem to really want to try to do it that way, so give it a shot. If it looks like anything's getting damaged, stop and unscrew the pin.

Is not that I really want to do it this way, its just that I know it will be a PITA to screw that arm back to the lifting mechanism with the ramp back in place since I will have to maneuver the arm with a pair of pliers under the ramp and basically you can't really see what you are doing. Am I correct here? Is it difficult to screw the arm back? That is why I wanted to avioid removing the arm.

If I remove the arm, what will happen to the mechanism that holds the arm? Will it stay up or fall down?

Thanks!

#2802 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Not sure if these pictures will help or not but I will say it was way easy to have this mechanism adjusted/removed with the playfield out. If that's not difficult for you, highly recommend so you can get it dialed in perfectly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-playfield-swap#post-2799198

Let me check them out. Thanks!

#2803 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Not sure if these pictures will help or not but I will say it was way easy to have this mechanism adjusted/removed with the playfield out. If that's not difficult for you, highly recommend so you can get it dialed in perfectly.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-playfield-swap#post-2799198

Thanks for the suggestion and pics! Those really help! What do you think about my idea of just pulling the ramp away from the arm? Is it even possible? Thanks

#2804 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Is not that I really want to do it this way, its just that I know it will be a PITA to screw that arm back to the lifting mechanism with the ramp back in place since I will have to maneuver the arm with a pair of pliers under the ramp and basically you can't really see what you are doing. Am I correct here? Is it difficult to screw the arm back? That is why I wanted to avioid removing the arm.
If I remove the arm, what will happen to the mechanism that holds the arm? Will it stay up or fall down?
Thanks!

Don't stress over it.. you need to remove a lot to get back here and get the assemblies out.. but as long as you keep the hardware organized its straightforward to put it all back together. Just note the sequence you did things and keep the hardware used for each together.

Its involved, but not complex. Just simple screws and nuts. I remember the triangle piece as well. The hardest part if I recall are the small screws that attach the steel pieces to the side/backboard. They are hard to reach if I recall.

#2805 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yes I can see that I will need to remove the wireform. I have two questions please.
1. As you can see in the last picture I posted, you can see the pivot bar wedged in the underside of the ramp in a bracket to hold it in. My question is, once I remove the wireform, all the screws and everything, is it even possible to just pull the ramp assembly "away" from the pivot arm and off the bracket? I was just trying to not unscrew the pivot arm. Will that be possible to just pull away from the arm to release the whole ramp assembly? Or pretty much the pivot arm has to be unscrewed no matter what? Sorry for the question but in the picture, it appears as if just pulling the ramp assembly away from the pivot arm will do the trick. What do you think?
2. If I must remove the pivot arm, when I put it back, will that cause ANY issues when I start a game? What I'm trying to say is: The arm pivot right now with the game disassembled is in the up position. If I remove the arm, the whole thing will problaly go down. Will this confuse the game or cause any problems because I messed with the position of the arm? Sorry but I just don't want to mess this up. Thanks!

You can't get the ramp out without removing the support bar. You don't need to do anything with the moving part of the assembly.. so you just put it back in and tighten the nut.. you won't have issues.

#2806 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

You can't get the ramp out without removing the support bar. You don't need to do anything with the moving part of the assembly.. so you just put it back in and tighten the nut.. you won't have issues.

Thanks for all your help and words of encouragement! I guess there is no other way but to remove that arm! Let me ask you another question if you don't mind:

I never ever make the up and down ramp with my lower right flipper. As I'm going through the teardown process, I honestly do not see anything that prevents the ball from making it up the ramp. I have rebuilt all 3 flippers with all the correct parts. The only thing I have noticed is that the ramp has some type of "glue" residue and maybe that prevents the ball from going up the ramp? (Note: When I use my hand, the ball goes up the ramp no problem, so maybe this glue residue is not at fault?) What I also noticed is that my ramp flap is off to the side a bit? Is it supposed to be completely flush with the back wall?

I'm running out of ideas because that is all I can think of that might prevent the ball from going up the ramp with my right lower flipper. When I use my top right flipper the ball goes up no problem. When the ramp is in the UP position and I shoot the ball with my right flipper, the ball actually travels super fast around the loop. When I use my hand around the loop the ball does go up the ramp. So, I'm quite puzzed as to why this is happenning. This is one of the main reasons why I disassembled the PF to see If there was anything binding or slowing the ball down. Any suggestions are much appreciated! Thanks!!!!!

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#2807 3 years ago

Your ramp flap is hacked... that is very common on this game. In fact mine was broke the very same way, but I solved it differently For years I had electrical tape wrapped around the ramp (perpendicular to the ball flow) to keep the flap in place and it worked fine. The welds holding the pivot on the bottom of the ramp is what ultimately failed on mine, and I had to cut a new ramp flap for the new ramp when I replaced it. The glue could be a factor, but don't forget to check the whole orbit leading up to the ramp. Normally shots like these can fail due to the ball being rattled around.

I don't know if that screw head in your photo looks correct... I'm not in front of my game, but that is standing out to me.

Getting up that ramp is no gimmie.. but it should be able to be made reliably on a clean orbit shot.

#2808 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Your ramp flap is hacked... that is very common on this game. In fact mine was broke the very same way, but I solved it differently For years I had electrical tape wrapped around the ramp (perpendicular to the ball flow) to keep the flap in place and it worked fine. The welds holding the pivot on the bottom of the ramp is what ultimately failed on mine, and I had to cut a new ramp flap for the new ramp when I replaced it. The glue could be a factor, but don't forget to check the whole orbit leading up to the ramp. Normally shots like these can fail due to the ball being rattled around.
I don't know if that screw head in your photo looks correct... I'm not in front of my game, but that is standing out to me.
Getting up that ramp is no gimmie.. but it should be able to be made reliably on a clean orbit shot.

You talk about the screw that prevents the ramp from going to high?

#2809 3 years ago

flynnibus is dead on about how to remove. It's not bad. Take lots of pics. I shopped mine when I bought it starting in this this sick hobby and all went well. If you can find someone in your area with a rivet press get the new ramp flap if the ramp is ok. Mine was broken and the Pinbits one is what I bought 5 years ago. It's done great so far after 5 years and likely 2-4K plays since I've owned it before swapping playfields.

#2810 3 years ago

My back ramp was a mess as well.

A few months later, it's chromed with a new flap riveted.

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#2811 3 years ago
Quoted from dmacy:

flynnibus is dead on about how to remove. It's not bad. Take lots of pics. I shopped mine when I bought it starting in this this sick hobby and all went well. If you can find someone in your area with a rivet press get the new ramp flap if the ramp is ok. Mine was broken and the Pinbits one is what I bought 5 years ago. It's done great so far after 5 years and likely 2-4K plays since I've owned it before swapping playfields.

Its good to know about pinbits...been looking everywhere for that flap. I certainly don't mean to beat this horse to death but I don't have the experience in removing the top of playfields. This is my first time doing this. Thats the reason for all the questions. I appreciate your help very much!

#2812 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

My back ramp was a mess as well.
A few months later, it's chromed with a new flap riveted.

That looks nice! Will have to do that some day. Where you having the same issue of not locking up balls with the lower right flipper before your new flap?

#2813 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Your ramp flap is hacked... that is very common on this game. In fact mine was broke the very same way, but I solved it differently For years I had electrical tape wrapped around the ramp (perpendicular to the ball flow) to keep the flap in place and it worked fine. The welds holding the pivot on the bottom of the ramp is what ultimately failed on mine, and I had to cut a new ramp flap for the new ramp when I replaced it. The glue could be a factor, but don't forget to check the whole orbit leading up to the ramp. Normally shots like these can fail due to the ball being rattled around.
I don't know if that screw head in your photo looks correct... I'm not in front of my game, but that is standing out to me.
Getting up that ramp is no gimmie.. but it should be able to be made reliably on a clean orbit shot.

Thanks for your help!

#2814 3 years ago

I've got to replace the end of my ramp too so these posts are helpful and timely! Thanks guys!

PS: Just added Pinball Pro speakers, ColorDMD, Donut Shop and Hairpin turn mods. :0)

#2815 3 years ago

Getaway is real easy to take apart. I took it slow and kept track where every fastener went. My ramp flap is cracked. I bought a replacement long time ago but never got around to installing it. Still works fine so don't feel like going through all that work. Not sure what will cause problems with ball going up ramp. I would just make sure it sits flat and not any weird angles.

#2816 3 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

I've got to replace the end of my ramp too so these posts are helpful and timely! Thanks guys!
PS: Just added Pinball Pro speakers, ColorDMD, Donut Shop and Hairpin turn mods. :0)

The speaker help any?

#2817 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

That looks nice! Will have to do that some day. Where you having the same issue of not locking up balls with the lower right flipper before your new flap?

No not at all. Though it's been unplayable for a few months now so my memory isn't super clear about how it used to play. It should be back together and kicking ass in all its chromed greatness very soon.

#2818 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Getaway is real easy to take apart. I took it slow and kept track where every fastener went. My ramp flap is cracked. I bought a replacement long time ago but never got around to installing it. Still works fine so don't feel like going through all that work. Not sure what will cause problems with ball going up ramp. I would just make sure it sits flat and not any weird angles.

Thanks jaw jaw!

#2819 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

No not at all. Though it's been unplayable for a few months now so my memory isn't super clear about how it used to play. It should be back together and kicking ass in all its chromed greatness very soon.

Cool!

#2820 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

The speaker help any?

Speakers sound great. Thumping bass...
Anyway I put them in all my keepers.

#2821 3 years ago

i got a set of flipper fidels at allentown (discount) for my HS2, since the cones were flaking apart on my stockies. definitely deeper, throatier. engine revs rumble for sure.

#2822 3 years ago

I'm a Sheriff's Deputy and thought I'd support these chrome cap decals. I like the star ones that resemble a badge. They are prob designed for the standard cap and not these jeweled caps so it wasn't an easy install for the outer ring. What do y'all think?

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#2823 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I'm a Sheriff's Deputy and thought I'd support these chrome cap decals. I like the star ones that resemble a badge. They are prob designed for the standard cap and not these jeweled caps so it wasn't an easy install for the outer ring. What do y'all think?

Those look damn good!!! They go with the game theme too! Well done!
Where did you buy them?

#2825 3 years ago
Quoted from scottmaggie:

Speakers sound great. Thumping bass...
Anyway I put them in all my keepers.

But was there an improvement in the bb speakers? We can get it to thump with a powered sub for about $80.

#2826 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I'm a Sheriff's Deputy and thought I'd support these chrome cap decals. I like the star ones that resemble a badge. They are prob designed for the standard cap and not these jeweled caps so it wasn't an easy install for the outer ring. What do y'all think?

They look real nice. I wonder what they'd look like with the led rings in them.

#2827 3 years ago

New member here too. Purchased Getaway as my first pin from another local pinsider here a month or so ago. Already did full LEDs (and led-patched L-2 eprom) and really love it.

You definitely should be able to make the lock shot from the lower right flipper. I struggle a bit with the shot myself, but a clean shot should easily make the rear ramp and lock...

Lousy pic of mine here.

IMG_20160713_203706_(resized).jpg

#2828 3 years ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

New member here too. Purchased Getaway as my first pin from another local pinsider here a month or so ago. Already did full LEDs (and led-patched L-2 eprom) and really love it.
You definitely should be able to make the lock shot from the lower right flipper. I struggle a bit with the shot myself, but a clean shot should easily make the rear ramp and lock...
Lousy pic of mine here.

Looks nice!

#2829 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I'm a Sheriff's Deputy and thought I'd support these chrome cap decals. I like the star ones that resemble a badge. They are prob designed for the standard cap and not these jeweled caps so it wasn't an easy install for the outer ring. What do y'all think?

I like the star in the middle, but the ring seems a little out of place. Maybe make the star bigger? It is just chrome vinyl like I made your flasher caps from.

#2830 3 years ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

New member here too. Purchased Getaway as my first pin from another local pinsider here a month or so ago. Already did full LEDs (and led-patched L-2 eprom) and really love it.
You definitely should be able to make the lock shot from the lower right flipper. I struggle a bit with the shot myself, but a clean shot should easily make the rear ramp and lock...
Lousy pic of mine here.

Welcome.

#2831 3 years ago

They look great Grinder!! Iok

#2832 3 years ago

Hello guys!

I'm putting back my getaway Super Charger now. I just want to make sure....Do any of you guys remember if the diverter gate is supposed to be sitting on a washer? See pic. Mine has a little bit of play up and down and I don't know if that washer is causing that. The sets screws are extremely tight so that is not causing it. Any advise is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

#2833 3 years ago

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#2834 3 years ago

How about that washer under the actuator? Is it supposed to be there? Thanks!

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#2835 3 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

How about that washer under the actuator? Is it supposed to be there? Thanks!

Check out the manual...

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_English_Manual_with_OCR.pdf

Says there are washers on both top and bottom.. item 23 on PDF page 92

I don't remember the divertor being particularly tight up and down.. just make sure it doesn't give in the rotation direction.

#2836 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Check out the manual...
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_English_Manual_with_OCR.pdf
Says there are washers on both top and bottom.. item 23 on PDF page 92
I don't remember the divertor being particularly tight up and down.. just make sure it doesn't give in the rotation direction.

Thanks so much! Will put it together now!

#2837 3 years ago

Well guys, I just put the playfield back together and I'm sooo dissapointed

Turn the machine ON, no errors or reports, start a game, ball pops in the shooter lane, launch the ball and the machine resets!!! Start another game, press any flipper, the machine resets!! Started another game, got the gall with my hand from the shooter lane, sent it up the Super Charger, machine resets! I reseated some ribbon cables and other connectors and the problem persists.

Put the machine in Super Charger test mode, it works but its sooo slow now, like 178, worse than before! All I did was take the SC off to clean and replace parts. Don't know why its acting this way.

Turned the machine ON again, now I get an error report, "shiter error" and "check switch 81 opto # 1".

My questions are: What could be causing the reset issue?

Is the reset issue related to opto 1 switch 81?

How do I fix or check switch 81, opto 1 (its in the SC)

Its very frustrating when stuff like this happens, hope you guys can guide me and help me out. Thanks a lot!

#2838 3 years ago

when things go haywire after simple work... its usually due to plugging harnesses into the wrong place. Wrong voltages in the wrong place can give all kinds of wierd results.

Go back to where you were working.. and look for any connectors that are of similar size. Make sure you didn't plug a switch plug into a coil or light one, etc. Best thing to do is just review where you were.

You can run the game without the supercharger assembly entirely.. so you can remove the wiring you were working around and see if it cleans up. Also check for things that got moved around and can be shorting on other pieces of metal now.

The game's errors can give you hints on where to start looking.. look up those connectors and double check they are in the right spot, right colors, etc.

#2839 3 years ago

On a side note: I took extremely good care of the super charger will I had it off the machine. No wires were damaged or pinched or broken.

#2840 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

when things go haywire after simple work... its usually due to plugging harnesses into the wrong place. Wrong voltages in the wrong place can give all kinds of wierd results.
Go back to where you were working.. and look for any connectors that are of similar size. Make sure you didn't plug a switch plug into a coil or light one, etc. Best thing to do is just review where you were.
You can run the game without the supercharger assembly entirely.. so you can remove the wiring you were working around and see if it cleans up. Also check for things that got moved around and can be shorting on other pieces of metal now.
The game's errors can give you hints on where to start looking.. look up those connectors and double check they are in the right spot, right colors, etc.

I basically just pulled both connectors under the playfield for the SC and the SC connector for the lights. They are different sized connectors so, I don't think I plugged a connector in the wrong place...I will double check anyway...thanks for your guidance!

#2841 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

when things go haywire after simple work... its usually due to plugging harnesses into the wrong place. Wrong voltages in the wrong place can give all kinds of wierd results.
Go back to where you were working.. and look for any connectors that are of similar size. Make sure you didn't plug a switch plug into a coil or light one, etc. Best thing to do is just review where you were.
You can run the game without the supercharger assembly entirely.. so you can remove the wiring you were working around and see if it cleans up. Also check for things that got moved around and can be shorting on other pieces of metal now.
The game's errors can give you hints on where to start looking.. look up those connectors and double check they are in the right spot, right colors, etc.

Will probably have to remove or disconnect the SC to see if it clears up. Will report back. Thanks!

#2842 3 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

when things go haywire after simple work... its usually due to plugging harnesses into the wrong place. Wrong voltages in the wrong place can give all kinds of wierd results.
Go back to where you were working.. and look for any connectors that are of similar size. Make sure you didn't plug a switch plug into a coil or light one, etc. Best thing to do is just review where you were.
You can run the game without the supercharger assembly entirely.. so you can remove the wiring you were working around and see if it cleans up. Also check for things that got moved around and can be shorting on other pieces of metal now.
The game's errors can give you hints on where to start looking.. look up those connectors and double check they are in the right spot, right colors, etc.

I'm not too experienced but found this to be true. Earlier today I reset all connectors in my shadow trying to fix a reset problem it has. Game booted up buzzing and seemed like it was going to blow up. I reset the ribbon cables and it was all good. I would try to reset all connectors. Check pins and for burnt connectors as you go. Go into test mode and test all switches and coils. Start with basics.

#2843 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

I'm not too experienced but found this to be true. Earlier today I reset all connectors in my shadow trying to fix a reset problem it has. Game booted up buzzing and seemed like it was going to blow up. I reset the ribbon cables and it was all good. I would try to reset all connectors. Check pins and for burnt connectors as you go. Go into test mode and test all switches and coils. Start with basics.

That sounds good! Will report back. Thanks!!!!

#2844 3 years ago

Update! Disconnected the SC connectors from under the PF and the machine works like a charm! I'm even able to make the up and down ramp with my lower right flipper!

I don't see how I connected those connectors wrong?? Is that even possible? They are different sizes and have groves. What did I do wrong here? Did I fry anything? How? Thanks!!

#2845 3 years ago

Could it be that I didn't connect one all the way or something? I'm scared to connect them again and see if they work.

#2846 3 years ago

As for the Shifter error, this can happen when you only use the shifter in one direction just wiggle it up and down and it should reset... it's not truly an error or at least that's been the case on my table.

Connectors are usually specific but anything is possible...

Sometimes, like mentioned before, after doing so much to the pin it goes crazy but it will catch up and be fine after a few start ups.

Opto errors or slow SC can be because the opto are out of alignment.

If you fried anything it could be a fuse just check them out

#2847 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

As for the Shifter error, this can happen when you only use the shifter in one direction just wiggle it up and down and it should reset... it's not truly an error or at least that's been the case on my table.
Connectors are usually specific but anything is possible...
Sometimes, like mentioned before, after doing so much to the pin it goes crazy but it will catch up and be fine after a few start ups.
Opto errors or slow SC can be because the opto are out of alignment.
If you fried anything it could be a fuse just check them out

Is it OK to reconnect them and try again? I will also chech the fuses.

Why would they not work if they were connected properly? I'm very positive I did. Thanks!!

#2848 3 years ago

I realise this is a bit late "at the moment" but i can not stress ENOUGH the point that if you are not overly confident on repairs, etc, ALWAYS take lots of pictures before taking ANYTHING apart on a machine. Go even further than that, LABEL every plug that you disconnect (use a piece of masking tape and write on both male and female sides of the plug, even if you just number the plugs as 1-1, 2-2 etc etc). Whilst it is true that a lot of plugs are specific and in the case of the plugs in the back box a lot only plug one way there are always plugs used that are exactly the same size and plug the same way. Being anal about labelling and picture taking may seem extreme but it can help immensely down the track, especially if you get distracted, inbetween work, whatever!!

#2849 3 years ago

With the supercharger connected, run through testing of the optos, magnets, and diverter. Like tiltmonster says, errors that the game reports may not mean anything. You need to verify that each switch and part is working one at a time. Hard to do that during gameplay when everything is active.

#2850 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I realise this is a bit late "at the moment" but i can not stress ENOUGH the point that if you are not overly confident on repairs, etc, ALWAYS take lots of pictures before taking ANYTHING apart on a machine. Go even further than that, LABEL every plug that you disconnect (use a piece of masking tape and write on both male and female sides of the plug, even if you just number the plugs as 1-1, 2-2 etc etc). Whilst it is true that a lot of plugs are specific and in the case of the plugs in the back box a lot only plug one way there are always plugs used that are exactly the same size and plug the same way. Being anal about labelling and picture taking may seem extreme but it can help immensely down the track, especially if you get distracted, inbetween work, whatever!!

Trust me, I did label everything....thanks!

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