(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

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There are 9742 posts in this topic. You are on page 53 of 195.
#2601 3 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

I'm going to install my l.e.d. kit soon. Thinking about replacing all the rubber too. Anybody have advice what I should replace with? I need to buy a kit for it. Too much work for me to figure out all the stuff on my own. I'm thinking about those translucent ones? Thanks.

A couple of points of advice:

1) Consider doing your own LEDs instead of a kit. Take a look earlier in this thread a page or two back, and you will find all the resources you need. I personally detailed every lamp, and even gave my color selections. Also, others added some good opinions to the discussion. I ended up saving $50+ bucks not going with a kit which I put into additional lighting (again, see earlier in thread)

2) As far as the rubbers, for the rings I went with Titan translucent Competition Silicone and love them. I really like the looks of the lighting with the translucent rings, and I've not had any issues with them getting dirty thus far. For the flippers, I went with red and green PerfectPlay Silicone from Pinball Life. I love the way these play verses traditional rubbers. Finally, for the posts, I went with red, yellow, and green colored post sleeves from Pinball Life. Again, you can browse through recent pages of this thread and see pics of tables with translucent, red, black, white, etc. rubbers to see what you like. If you are seriously interested in the translucent then I would be happy to post more detailed pics.

Bottom line is that it is your game, and outfit it the way you want in your own style. I will admit that I am more to the personalized style with different colored jets, all kinds of lighting mods, custom gear shifter, and all sorts of red/yellow/green theming throughout the table (target covers, posts, post covers, LED pop bumpers, etc.) If you're more of a traditionalist and want to keep the original look of the table, then that is good too.

Also, if you are referring to a rubber kit and not LED kit like I assumed, I would be happy again to inventory for you what is required if not already done so earlier in this forum. I found that going by the manual was not quite accurate (or at least not clear to me).

#2602 3 years ago

Silicone Rings:

2 x 1" Inner Diameter
3 x 1 1/4" ID
2 x 2 1/2" ID
8 x 7/16" ID
2 x 3/4" ID
6 x 5/16" ID
8 x 7/16" Outer Diameter

Feel free to chime in if anyone thinks this should be modified.

#2603 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I finally decided to try and figure out why often times pressing flipper buttons results in points (doesn't seem to be the same score every time). What I discovered so far through testing switches is that sometimes the center trough switch (57) will open when flippers are pushed (left or right). Could this be the cause of my issue? If so, how do I fix it? If not, where else should I look?

Can you describe what's happening in a little bit more detail, i.e. "I put the machine in switch test mode, press the right or left flipper, and the DMD says switch 57 was pushed. This happens about once for every 4 flipper pushes (the exact number seems random)"? It's hard to debug things remotely, so the more details you can provide, the more likely one of us will be able to help.

#2604 3 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

Can you describe what's happening in a little bit more detail, i.e. "I put the machine in switch test mode, press the right or left flipper, and the DMD says switch 57 was pushed. This happens about once for every 4 flipper pushes (the exact number seems random)"? It's hard to debug things remotely, so the more details you can provide, the more likely one of us will be able to help.

What I meant to say is that the flippers seem to trigger switch 57 and 56 open periodically. It is like the vibration is tripping them. When putting machine in switch test mode and setting to switch 56 or 57 then flipping the flippers, the DMD will show the switches sporadically opening. In game mode this translates to points being added just by pushing the flipper buttons.

#2605 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

What I meant to say is that the flippers seem to trigger switch 57 and 56 open periodically. It is like the vibration is tripping them. When putting machine in switch test mode and setting to switch 56 or 57 then flipping the flippers, the DMD will show the switches sporadically opening. In game mode this translates to points being added just by pushing the flipper buttons.

Is it just the flipper buttons or does hitting (or lightly dropping) the pin cause the same thing? Let's decide if it's purely vibration-based. Do 57 and 56 trigger simultaneously or is it sometimes one and sometimes the other? And I'm not sure why trough switches would give you points... Weird...

#2606 3 years ago

Not always both switches at the same time. Banging cabinet hard does not seem to do anything. Also does not happen when moving flippers by hand. Even when I hold the switches still and press flipper buttons it occurs. Almost seems like something electrical.

#2607 3 years ago

i agree with diy led's. i can do a whole machine for $75, including flashers.

#2608 3 years ago

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

20160602_204224_(resized).jpg

#2609 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

PM sent

#2610 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

Been looking for one of these for a long time...

#2611 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

Throw a price out, and let the feeding frenzy begin.

#2612 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, I finally decided to try and figure out why often times pressing flipper buttons results in points (doesn't seem to be the same score every time). What I discovered so far through testing switches is that sometimes the center trough switch (57) will open when flippers are pushed (left or right). Could this be the cause of my issue? If so, how do I fix it? If not, where else should I look?

Try checking the ramp optos for being loose or dirty. I had some similar issues with my ST where vibrations were setting off a ramp opto. In the switch matrix, try banging around the playfield and see if any switches go off. Not many optos in Getaway but could still have a flaky switch. If you had issues with trough switches I would think that would really mess up gameplay and not have much to do with points.

#2613 3 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

I'm going to install my l.e.d. kit soon. Thinking about replacing all the rubber too. Anybody have advice what I should replace with? I need to buy a kit for it. Too much work for me to figure out all the stuff on my own. I'm thinking about those translucent ones? Thanks.

No hard to figuring it out. The list is in the manual and not hard to find. It's even posted above. Some places don't even sell ring kits because there are hundreds of different games to deal with. I have Titan rubbers. They stay pretty clean, look great in colors, and work well. Not a fan of the translucent either. Looks exactly like the silicon caulk you get at the hardware store. Big surprise because that's exactly what it is but doesn't look that good in a beautiful pinball machine. Colors like red and green look much better.

#2614 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Not always both switches at the same time. Banging cabinet hard does not seem to do anything. Also does not happen when moving flippers by hand. Even when I hold the switches still and press flipper buttons it occurs. Almost seems like something electrical.

I had something like this happen with my slings, I think a wire was crossed or making contact somehow and caused them to activate, do a general sweep under the PF to make sure no wires are crossed or touching each other...

#2615 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Not many optos in Getaway

I know of 3 pair in SC magnets and one in SC ramp. Any others? I have actually replaced 2 pair in SC for other reasons but issue was occurring before and after that operation.

#2616 3 years ago

Looking for an honest price opinion from Getaway owners. This is my game. Game is stock except for the dual LED flashers. No LED's. Game has always played great and the supercharger still whips balls around fast! Plastics and DMD are good. Playfield is in good shape except minor insert wear around the black inside borders of some RPM's around the shift wheel. Decals have fade and wear, front has been drilled for security bar.

Any quick opinions are good. I would like a "priced to sell" price if possible. Thanks

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#2617 3 years ago
Quoted from pinnyheadhead:

Looking for an honest price opinion from Getaway owners. This is my game. Game is stock except for the dual LED flashers. No LED's. Game has always played great and the supercharger still whips balls around fast! Plastics and DMD are good. Playfield is in good shape except minor insert wear around the black inside borders of some RPM's around the shift wheel. Decals have fade and wear, front has been drilled for security bar.
Any quick opinions are good. I would like a "priced to sell" price if possible. Thanks

I paid $2,450 for mine similar condition a few months ago (your playfield looks to be in better condition than mine). I've since performed a few repairs and several upgrades, and probably have around $3K in it now.

Not saying this was good or bad, but what the market bore or me in DFW this year.

#2618 3 years ago

Thanks! TX has really become a pinball hotspot for the US. I have been to the last 2 TPF and I felt how much pinball passion you TX folks have as soon as I walk through the doors.

#2619 3 years ago

priced to sell: $2000/firm.

#2620 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

priced to sell: $2000/firm.

I suppose this all depends on what priced to sell means to you, even Pinside's range is $2,200 - $2,580 so posting below that is just nuts. You can always negotiate a lower price but you'll never be able to raise it back up. Personally I wouldn't let mine go for less than $2,650 without my colorDMD and $3,000 with it but condition is king and you have a few issues... there was a security bar at one time so the front cabinet was drilled out plus the fade. Neither one are huge concerns as long as it plays well because that can be repaired; however, it would be at a cost of about $250 plus the time to restore so that will lower it's value. I'd probably list it for $2400-ish and see what happens.

EDIT: Make sure everything is good working order before you list it, boards, bulbs and toys, this will only help you sell it unless you want to sell it as a project.

#2621 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I've got an extra snow capped mountain mod that came with my new Getaway. It's already got one installed so I'm planning on selling the extra and am trying to gauge interest. It's the mod based on the original molds and I believe that there were 100 made. PM me if interested.

I got more interest in this than I anticipated, and it is now sold.

#2622 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Silicone Rings:
2 x 1" Inner Diameter
3 x 1 1/4" ID
2 x 2 1/2" ID
8 x 7/16" ID
2 x 3/4" ID
6 x 5/16" ID
8 x 7/16" Outer Diameter
Feel free to chime in if anyone thinks this should be modified.

Thanks a ton for this. Question, are the 8 x 7/16" Outer Diameter for the posts? Reason I'm wondering they do show the breakdown of rings for the Getaway on the Titan site. It shows no 7/16" OD, but it does show "Post sleeves-standard" and calls for 8 of those. Here's where I found the kit database: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/335

#2623 3 years ago

I really appreciate all the help and advice. I'm for too stupid to figure out all the lights to order l.e.d.'s. I ordered a kit for that. Thanks to Mr. Tantrum for the ring sizes I was able to put together my needs on the Titan site. Except for clarification on the posts vs. 7/16" OD confusion. I'm ordering all the competition silicone in red. Red flipper rings too. I guess I like red for this machine.

#2624 3 years ago

All the ring sizes should be listed in the manual but those 7/16" OD are for all the red single groove miniposts. I used white on those for some pop and just the regular rubber because I had them already plus they won't see any action.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5052-02

#2625 3 years ago
Quoted from Bob86ZZ4:

Thanks a ton for this. Question, are the 8 x 7/16" Outer Diameter for the posts? Reason I'm wondering they do show the breakdown of rings for the Getaway on the Titan site. It shows no 7/16" OD, but it does show "Post sleeves-standard" and calls for 8 of those. Here's where I found the kit database: https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/view/id/335

Yes, the small spikey red posts (traffic cones) on top of plastics. They never come into contact with a ball, but having something on them adds to the overall look.

#2626 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

A couple of points of advice:
1) Consider doing your own LEDs instead of a kit. Take a look earlier in this thread a page or two back, and you will find all the resources you need. I personally detailed every lamp, and even gave my color selections. Also, others added some good opinions to the discussion. I ended up saving $50+ bucks not going with a kit which I put into additional lighting (again, see earlier in thread)
2) As far as the rubbers, for the rings I went with Titan translucent Competition Silicone and love them. I really like the looks of the lighting with the translucent rings, and I've not had any issues with them getting dirty thus far. For the flippers, I went with red and green PerfectPlay Silicone from Pinball Life. I love the way these play verses traditional rubbers. Finally, for the posts, I went with red, yellow, and green colored post sleeves from Pinball Life. Again, you can browse through recent pages of this thread and see pics of tables with translucent, red, black, white, etc. rubbers to see what you like. If you are seriously interested in the translucent then I would be happy to post more detailed pics.
Bottom line is that it is your game, and outfit it the way you want in your own style. I will admit that I am more to the personalized style with different colored jets, all kinds of lighting mods, custom gear shifter, and all sorts of red/yellow/green theming throughout the table (target covers, posts, post covers, LED pop bumpers, etc.) If you're more of a traditionalist and want to keep the original look of the table, then that is good too.
Also, if you are referring to a rubber kit and not LED kit like I assumed, I would be happy again to inventory for you what is required if not already done so earlier in this forum. I found that going by the manual was not quite accurate (or at least not clear to me).

One bit of advise, probably too late for you now, but to anyone ordering new bands for your pin, always buy an extra 1 or 2 of the sizes you need, trust me, it's better to have them on hand if needed instead of having to wait a week or so to get a new one if one breaks. These aren't that expensive of an items so the few bucks up front will be well worth it, IMO.

#2627 3 years ago

I was wondering if this was normal back ramp behavior:

- Back ramp is in down mode
- Ball is drained and back ramp raises
- Next ball is launched
- At the last second the back ramp lowers, ball goes up it slightly but not enough to make it to Donut Heaven, and then ball returns down ramp and is diverted to pop bumper area instead of making full loop.

As far as I can tell, my ramp is working correctly under all circumstances and my ball launch power seems very good. Watching in every other situation, it appears to me that the ramp gets out of the way for play but seems to purposefully get in the way in this scenario. May just be the way it is, but thought I would ask. FYI, I'm on v2 of firmware but I seem to recall v1 behaved the same.

#2628 3 years ago

No, if you drain when the ramp is down, the ramp should raise when the new ball is launched from the shooter and then travel under the ramp, then the ramp should lower once it passes underneath giving you a chance to hit the ramp with the upper flipper.

#2629 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

No, if you drain when the ramp is down, the ramp should raise when the new ball is launched from the shooter and then travel under the ramp, then the ramp should lower once it passes underneath giving you a chance to hit the ramp with the upper flipper.

This does not occur. What can I do to adjust the ramp timing, or is this some switch issue? My shooter seems powerful enough as the ball quickly and easily makes the loop under normal circumstances.

As an update, if the ball drains with the Free Ride light on, when the shooter self launches the ball it does make the loop with the ramp lowering after the ball passes.

#2630 3 years ago

Got a buddy going to make me a new stock looking speaker panel. (Getaway)These are not screen printed. There reverse printed on clear then stuck on backside of plastic then covered with thin white. I can get the plastic laser cut. But would have to do a whole sheet. Which would make 15 out of a sheet. The cost would come out to 55.00 a speaker panel. Just curious if anyone would be interested in one. Supposed to get sample this coming week. Want to see exactly what it looks like first. Supposed to look as good as screen print but we will see. Pm me if interested in one

#2631 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I was wondering if this was normal back ramp behavior:
- Back ramp is in down mode
- Ball is drained and back ramp raises
- Next ball is launched
- At the last second the back ramp lowers, ball goes up it slightly but not enough to make it to Donut Heaven, and then ball returns down ramp and is diverted to pop bumper area instead of making full loop.
As far as I can tell, my ramp is working correctly under all circumstances and my ball launch power seems very good. Watching in every other situation, it appears to me that the ramp gets out of the way for play but seems to purposefully get in the way in this scenario. May just be the way it is, but thought I would ask. FYI, I'm on v2 of firmware but I seem to recall v1 behaved the same.

When you say "At the last second the back ramp lowers", you mean it lowers after the ball is launched and right before the ball gets to the ramp? That is really strange, particularly if the ramp otherwise works reliably 100% of the time.

Why does the ball not make it up to donut heaven? Did the ramp not go down fully (slowing the ball down as it transitioned from playfield to ramp) or did the launcher not have enough power?

Do you have a credit dot (indicating some of the switches may not be working correctly)? In normal operation if lock is lit and a ball is launched, the ramp raises for the launch, then lowers after the ball has looped around under the ramp once (so if you make the upper flipper shot it will go up the ramp). I'm guessing that the ramp lowers after it detects one or more of the lane switches (SW17 and/or SW18) closing. If one of those switches was bad (shorted closed), the software might think/"guess" that the plunged ball had completed the loop before it actually had, causing the ramp to come down early.

That's my best guess given what you've provided. Let me know if you've got a credit dot (a period right after the number of credits on the DMD) or any more clues... I'd perform a full switch test to make sure your switch matrix (switches and diodes) are all OK.

#2632 3 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

When you say "At the last second the back ramp lowers", you mean it lowers after the ball is launched and right before the ball gets to the ramp? That is really strange, particularly if the ramp otherwise works reliably 100% of the time.
Why does the ball not make it up to donut heaven? Did the ramp not go down fully (slowing the ball down as it transitioned from playfield to ramp) or did the launcher not have enough power?
Do you have a credit dot (indicating some of the switches may not be working correctly)? In normal operation if lock is lit and a ball is launched, the ramp raises for the launch, then lowers after the ball has looped around under the ramp once (so if you make the upper flipper shot it will go up the ramp). I'm guessing that the ramp lowers after it detects one or more of the lane switches (SW17 and/or SW18) closing. If one of those switches was bad (shorted closed), the software might think/"guess" that the plunged ball had completed the loop before it actually had, causing the ramp to come down early.
That's my best guess given what you've provided. Let me know if you've got a credit dot (a period right after the number of credits on the DMD) or any more clues... I'd perform a full switch test to make sure your switch matrix (switches and diodes) are all OK.

Correct, ramp lowers right before ball hits it.

Shooter does not launch with enough power to send ball all the way up the ramp (it is close).

I don't recall seeing a credit dot, but will have to check when I return home. (Just checked - no credit dot)

I've performed switch test multiple times, and everything appears to be functioning correctly.

Odd thing is that most times when ball is auto launched as a Free Ride, the ramp timing is correct and ball passes underneath.

#2633 3 years ago
Quoted from biglaw:

Got a buddy going to make me a new stock looking speaker panel. (Getaway)These are not screen printed. There reverse printed on clear then stuck on backside of plastic then covered with thin white. I can get the plastic laser cut. But would have to do a whole sheet. Which would make 15 out of a sheet. The cost would come out to 55.00 a speaker panel. Just curious if anyone would be interested in one. Supposed to get sample this coming week. Want to see exactly what it looks like first. Supposed to look as good as screen print but we will see. Pm me if interested in one

I'm in for one

#2634 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Correct, ramp lowers right before ball hits it.
Shooter does not launch with enough power to send ball all the way up the ramp (it is close).
I don't recall seeing a credit dot, but will have to check when I return home. (Just checked - no credit dot)
I've performed switch test multiple times, and everything appears to be functioning correctly.
Odd thing is that most times when ball is auto launched as a Free Ride, the ramp timing is correct and ball passes underneath.

Maybe the "ramp high during launch" is on a timer (vs using the switches) and it thinks it's giving the ball enough time to go under it but because your kicker is weak it's not? In which case you'd want to inspect/rebuild/repair your plunger assembly and/or the high current driver board that drives it. Do your flippers / slingshots seem to be the correct strength?

I really don't think that's it though, because if the plunger was weak enough to not go around the loop in time, it would be too weak to even make the loop shot. Wish I had a better theory - I'll keep thinking on it. And you can always ask Lloyd: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/lloyd

#2635 3 years ago
Quoted from yonkiman:

Maybe the "ramp high during launch" is on a timer (vs using the switches) and it thinks it's giving the ball enough time to go under it but because your kicker is weak it's not? In which case you'd want to inspect/rebuild/repair your plunger assembly and/or the high current driver board that drives it. Do your flippers / slingshots seem to be the correct strength?
I really don't think that's it though, because if the plunger was weak enough to not go around the loop in time, it would be too weak to even make the loop shot. Wish I had a better theory - I'll keep thinking on it. And you can always ask Lloyd: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/lloyd

While I don't have another Getaway I can use to compare, everything seems strong to me. Flippers can make all the shots with power and slings are very responsive. If I get industrious, maybe I can shoot some video that might help. Game still plays great, but for some reason I decided to question this the other day. May not find an answer, so I'll try not to let it bug me too much.

#2636 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

While I don't have another Getaway I can use to compare, everything seems strong to me. Flippers can make all the shots with power and slings are very responsive. If I get industrious, maybe I can shoot some video that might help. Game still plays great, but for some reason I decided to question this the other day. May not find an answer, so I'll try not to let it bug me too much.

did you do a physical test of the roll over switchers under the super charger? How about your settings, what's the diverter set to?

#2637 3 years ago
Quoted from biglaw:

Got a buddy going to make me a new stock looking speaker panel. (Getaway)These are not screen printed. There reverse printed on clear then stuck on backside of plastic then covered with thin white. I can get the plastic laser cut. But would have to do a whole sheet. Which would make 15 out of a sheet. The cost would come out to 55.00 a speaker panel. Just curious if anyone would be interested in one. Supposed to get sample this coming week. Want to see exactly what it looks like first. Supposed to look as good as screen print but we will see. Pm me if interested in one

That's cool but I don't need one.....but I sure would like a new one for my BF.

#2638 3 years ago

I'm having an issue with my new Getaway. It seems that occasionally, especially during multiball, that it will keep flashing "drive again", even when I'm back down to one ball. The end result is that it keeps sending that ball back to the playfield over and over. Eventually, after a couple of minutes, it will stop flashing and allow the ball to drain. Is this normal behavior? Anyone else have this problem? Thanks!

#2639 3 years ago
Quoted from n1teowl:

I'm having an issue with my new Getaway. It seems that occasionally, especially during multiball, that it will keep flashing "drive again", even when I'm back down to one ball. The end result is that it keeps sending that ball back to the playfield over and over. Eventually, after a couple of minutes, it will stop flashing and allow the ball to drain. Is this normal behavior? Anyone else have this problem? Thanks!

That's the "Free Ride" bug. It happens occasionally (should be around 1 game in 100) with the L-2 ROM, I think it might have been fixed on the L-5. How often is it happening? Which ROM do you have? I found it happens a *lot* more frequently if you enable the "up/down ramp broken" setting in the adjustments (which you shouldn't need to do unless your ramp isn't working).

#2640 3 years ago

Ahhh, I haven't heard about this bug. I'm using L2, so that makes sense. It seems to be happening one game in 20. I'll check the ramp setting as well. Thanks for the heads up, I thought I was going crazy. Any reason to not upgrade to L5? I saw the poll in this thread that showed most people are still on L2.

#2641 3 years ago

These just arrived. Can't wait to put them on once the chrome is finished

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#2642 3 years ago

Nice!! just finished putting my cabinet and head graphics on and clearing. Check out my restore thread for tips or feel free to pm me with any questions on installing. I install graphics for a living. Are they mirror blades or just decals ? And if they are just decals , do they just install onto the side walls or do you need mirror blades to put them on ?

#2643 3 years ago

They are decals and adhere to one side. Spray a little windex and slide the game blade around till its lined up perfect and boom, good to go

#2644 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

They are decals and adhere to one side. Spray a little windex and slide the game blade around till its lined up perfect and boom, good to go

Oh ok, so you do need mirror blades. Wondering if the decals could be applied directly to the cabinet sides? Dont really want to spend the money on blades. To expensive to ship to Canada.

#2645 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Oh ok, so you do need mirror blades. Wondering if the decals could be applied directly to the cabinet sides? Dont really want to spend the money on blades. To expensive to ship to Canada.

No you don't need mirror blades. They adhere directly to the cabinet sides

#2646 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

No you don't need mirror blades. They adhere directly to the cabinet sides

Ahh ok. Nice! May i ask where you got them ?

#2648 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Ahh ok. Nice! May i ask where you got them ?

FYI, I am working on some homemade ones that I will print on my own. I don't know if I will like them or not. My idea is to print on oversized coated paper on a color laser printer the use double-sided tape to attach, but I will have to print on 3 separate sheets per blade and splice together. Thought I would try the poor man's route before I spent money on real decals or mirrors (I think I would really like mirrors, but a little fearful of scratching them and wasting the $$$).

Even though I did the artwork myself originating from images I could find on the web, I did "borrow" the overall design concept from tilt's take on them. My plan is to leave the right blade "as is" but add the Getaway Lambo to the left one (same design as in center of playfield - not shown in image as I've not yet completed).

I would possible be open to other Getaway design ideas if anyone is looking for a DIY blade project.

Blades_Art_(resized).jpg

#2649 3 years ago

Inside cab decals for Getaway, are there any out there ?

R.g
Matt

#2650 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, I am working on some homemade ones that I will print on my own. I don't know if I will like them or not. My idea is to print on oversized coated paper on a color laser printer the use double-sided tape to attach, but I will have to print on 3 separate sheets per blade and splice together. Thought I would try the poor man's route before I spent money on real decals or mirrors (I think I would really like mirrors, but a little fearful of scratching them and wasting the $$$).
Even though I did the artwork myself originating from images I could find on the web, I did "borrow" the overall design concept from tilt's take on them. My plan is to leave the right blade "as is" but add the Getaway Lambo to the left one (same design as in center of playfield - not shown in image as I've not yet completed).
I would possible be open to other Getaway design ideas if anyone is looking for a DIY blade project.

Have fun with the project. My pf fits to snug for mirrors.

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