Yeah, Vid is very detailed, he must do professional restorations...

I forgot that I did a very minor touch up a while back without putting the mylar on top of the area because it was not needed in the spot. I put a piece of plexiglass on top of the PF and mixed the colors so they would match.

I cleaned the area to remove any wax and/or dirt before priming it with a white primer.

I used a good fine tip paint brush that I bought at an art store so you wouldn't see brush strokes. I used good acrylic paints also from an art store (when shopping I learned that there are many grades of paint). Only use good paint because it dries the same color that it's mixed and shouldn't run or discolor when clear coated. I got clear coat and just brushed it on because the areas were so small.

The one photo is prior to sanding it with 800 grit sandpaper to level it out. Use automotive clear coat, that's what Vid recommended, not varnish or poly...

I hope that helps.

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My left sling stopped functioning yesterday. When testing the coil, it fires correctly. However, when testing switch it will not close. I looked underneath and no loose wires. When testing by hand both switches definately close and make contact, but do not register as closed. As far as I can tell, this is the only thing not working (well I do have a opto issue on the supercharger, and am assuming there is no relation). Any ideas?

Well, I figured it out. Somehow one of the harness connectors located in the backbox behind the speakers had become partially disconnected from its interface. Not sure if this occurred naturally during transport and finally shook loose or if I somehow did it while working on the machine. Sorry for the false alarm, but hopefully may help someone else in the future.

Go into menu, T:Tests, T4: solenoid test, cycle through to left sling and enter, have it on repeat. What happens?

Opto should not effect this, thats another issue. You may have to resolder the wires again or replace the opto, usually the black one (transceiver) that fails.

Solenoid worked fine. Thanks for the support, but please see my edited post above.

Ok, good. See edited post about opto...

Now my next problem I just noticed. 2 of the 3 pop bumper lights do not illuminate. Bulbs are verified good (switched with known working ones). Illumination test lights lower bumper but not upper 2.

Well, I discovered the cause of this. J120-1 and J120-2 GI power from main board connectors were burnt to a crisp. I disconnected the connector and put a meter on pins 1 & 7 then 2 & 8 and voltage was good (main board not damaged). Since I don't have one of these 11 pin connectors laying around, I broke off the burnt part of the connector, plugged the good part back in (included pins 7 andthen fashioned plugs from speaker connectors. I then crimped freshly stripped pin 1 & 2 wires to the connectors, connected to J120, and voila! Not only did the broken pop bumpers illuminate, but so did several other bulbs. This should hold until I get the correct connector ordered.

I just got a large order of parts in including all new optos. Looks like I have a soldering party in my near future.

Were these working before? Did you check the fuses? Do a test... Menu, T: Test, T:10 Lamps + Flashers, you may have more bulbs out than you realize. If not, check for loose wires. The pins and molex connecters on your driver board would be the next check. I'd have to look at my schematics to see what one powers them. Sometimes bulbs are finicky...but once corrected I would replace them with a good frosted twin SMD red bulb.

You probably don't need to replace all the optos (but that's up to you) you can test for faulty ones in the super charger test. These optos work like the safety feature on your garage door opener, one shoots an inferred beam (transceiver), the other receives it, if one is off tilt or broken it won't register.

I missed this... yes the dreaded j120, that's the one that usually fails. If the molex was burnt to a crisp there may be an issue with those pins or the printed conductive material on the back of the board. This what happened to mine, I replace the pin and reflowed the board but it didn't last so I bought a new driver board, rebuilt the connector, went to all LED and I've been trouble free.

The molex and female pins are available at Marco, Pinball life... You can repair them but if the driver board is damaged they will continue to fail. Converting to LED bulbs will help and new molex is better than that stuff they used 25 years ago and will last longer.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-j120-pic#post-2622720

This site is very helpful... good luck!

http://www.beerorkid.com/pin/System%20WPC/WPC%20part1/index1.htm

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm

Thanks for all the great info. I am in the process of putting together my LED kit, so hopefully I too will not have to worry about such things very soon. I guess I will see how the board holds up before making the decision to replace it.

Yes, don't buy a board unless it's needed. repair the molex connecter, female crimp terminals and maybe male pins on the board...

I think that's an 11 pin

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=+IDC+green11R+

or

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CM15611

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF15611

Anyone know where to score the alternate translite with the sexy ladies?

nooooo.

Agreed.. please nooooo!

Hahaha

Dont ruin all your hard work by going with that !! the original is just soo much cooler as far as im concerned.

The wife wouldn't approve either but what can I say, I'm a tit man.

On a whim, I began putting the playfield plastics back on the game. I wanted to see how they look with the lit up star posts. I like it but I'm wondering if I'd like clear star posts with a white post light more. I don't know. I just don't know. I do know that led strips in the ball return as well as under the slings look great!

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Happy wife, happy life... and you have the internet

What you might want to experiment with also is led strips under the tree plastics on the game. I did that to mine and they light up great. It REALLY evens out the lighting under them and with Comets new bulb with the connector coming out of it they would work super cuz you won't loose a socket like I did every time you use a strip now.

Yep I've got a socket with both the bulb and connector for each side as well as a strip for each side. I'm doing it tomorrow

Good man. I think I used 4 of the strips.

Wait you used four strips? Total? Each side? How many LEDs per strip?

Here's what they look like in a clear post with white LED'S

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Total. 7 led strips under the green plastics.

Well damn, I was just going to use one 10 led strip for each side. And I just placed another order with Comet but didn't put any more strips in that order. Damn

Email Art at Comet, if it hasn't shipped yet I'm sure he will help. Awesome guy to deal with... he's on Pinside too, OLDPINGUY

Better off with several smaller strips, bare in mind that both side large green plastics have a decent sized holes in them and one long strip will show some leds through the holes (depending on viewing angle of course).

It's already shipped and hell, I added three more orders on top of the original order before it all shipped. Just kept finding more things to try.

It's cool, I'll place another order for more strips soon.

I bought the matrix led light strips from Art for my Elvira machine and they can be trimmed down and cut to size, I removed 2 lights so it would fit where I wanted it to go.

Yea that's what I'm using too, Matrix is pretty awesome

Well when I put mine in a year and a half ago there was no such thing as a 10 led strip so they may work better.

i had my getaway for 2 years now couple weeks ago my getaway was in shop getting fix went i got it back. every time you get 2nd ball lock on my machine you get 3 police pretty much can get secret mania every time. also i have got 2 police office on playfield small police car mod

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Im pretty sure thats just the setting its on. I think its the competition setting.

Lookin gooood.

Don't shift and avoid secret mania, I know I do, because it always messes up my games

I tried what appeared to be a high quality extra bright white auto LED - it was about 1/2 the brightness of the normal bulb so I sent it back

Just to clarify, which color bulb did you go with? Did you observe the brightness to be as good or better than the original bulb?

Red, plenty bright. Looks like the currently available replacement is even more bright.

Just upgraded my speakers with these along with a sub-woofer:

Right Side 3.5": https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
Left Side 5.25": https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

Since I had to buy backbox speakers in pairs, I now have one extra of each. Since I only have one pin, I wanted to offer them to the to anyone who wants to buy them. I will sell them for 1/2 price since you would be getting 1/2 the speakers (1 of each size). This would be $15 + whatever the cost of shipping is to you. May not make sense once shipping is added, but thought I would offer.

Please PM me if interested.

How did you light up the chute?

Save them for your next pin... it will be arriving soon!

With an led strip attached to the top of the playfield side of the shooter lane.

Noob question. Would this subwoofer work on my HS2? If so, just jump onto the existing leads to the hi level input?

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11552490&PID=7843170&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11552490&utm_term=Submarine+Leisure+Club%2C+Inc.-3512519

Can't seem to open your link, but here is the one I went with: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160s-8-6-1-2-classic-shielded-woofer--295-306

- you want a low frequency response for the bass (this one has 33 Hz on the low side)
- needs to be 8 ohms Impedance from what I remember
- 6 1/2 inches is a simple swap out with the original

Are you talking about a powered sub? Yes they will work.

Finally got around to getting the shifter knob attached. It took about an hours work to make a new shaft on the lathe using 5/8th stainless steel rod, the threaded end is 3/8th and also had to make a tool to cut the groove for the circlip. I chose this particular one cause it has a flames pattern on the knob which fits in well with the Hydrodipped flames supercharger cover. There is 6 red LED'S inside that has a 4 position switch, so random pattern, all flashing, always on and off. I'd added some red LED flipper buttons recently so going with that particular coloured LED seemed the best way to go (also got the red LED start key mod from Mezelmods). On the whole the colours all fit well with the rest of the machine. If anyone is interested in a new shifter shaft so they can add their own style knob then just PM me. I will only need to know what size threaded end you wish to have, and i will mention that most of these after market car knobs come with several different sized plastic inserts (to screw onto a gear shift shaft) so i would recommend using the larger size insert first cause you can always cut the thread down further if it ever wears out (unlikely really). Price? , i'm not exactly sure about, even at half tradies rates (usually about $90 or more an hour in OZ) it will probably seem too expensive. If these were pumped out on a CNC machine in bulk amounts it would cost bugger all but i'm only thinking of doing a few if required. I'll say about $50 Aus dollars plus postage ( about $37 US) but i could have my arm twisted a bit

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Nice job on that shaft. With all that red on you game all your missing are my red leg Light-Ups.

LOL, on the sell again MP
I have considered those i must admit and i'm not shy when it comes to adding LED's/ Mods but lately i've been wondering just how far one can go with using LED'S before it becomes critical mass. I don't mean overloading the system as such, more the thought that one's machine ends up looking like one of those Indian trucks with all the murals/lights/glitter/figurines/etc

I am interested in a new shaft

Sorry but when I see the dark game fronts I just have to mention my mod.