(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,863 posts
  • 366 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
    6%
  • L2 137 votes
    51%
  • L3 8 votes
    3%
  • L5 91 votes
    34%
  • P7 7 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    3%

(Multiple choice - 267 votes by 266 Pinsiders)

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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 198.
#2201 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Here are the caps:
I have sampled a ton of cap LEDs but I'm liking the pop bumper LEDs from Comet:
I chose to match the led to the color of the pop but I also wondered how natural or warm white would look in the pops.
Lots of options out there bud. Good luck

Guess I was being too literal being new to pinball. So non-Williams toppers will fit the Williams poppers (i.e. the only difference is the styling)?

#2202 3 years ago

Yes sir, non Williams caps work. I had similar questions. I bought clear caps, the Williams real, yellow and red caps as well as the jeweled caps

#2203 3 years ago

Well I tested all my fuses, Jesus there are a ton, like 25 of them, and they all had continuity

#2204 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well I tested all my fuses, Jesus there are a ton, like 25 of them, and they all had continuity

A ton of fuses is a good thing, it's more protection for your machine but I'm confused now, are there still issues with the lights or is that resolved?

#2205 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

A ton of fuses is a good thing, it's more protection for your machine but I'm confused now, are there still issues with the lights or is that resolved?

Oh no it's resolved but I thought testing them all to make sure was recommended. I used a continuity tester. It lit up if there was continuity. There were only a few that to me at least, didn't seem to burn quite as bright

#2206 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh no it's resolved but I thought testing them all to make sure was recommended. I used a continuity tester. It light up if there was continuity. There were only a few that to me at least, didn't seem to burn quite as bright

Its not really neccesary to check fuses for continuity unless something is not working. Whats very important to do though is to check the fuse values and make sure they are correct when you get a machine. You never know what others put value wise.

#2207 3 years ago

2 problems (connected?) (L2)

I keep getting "check top lock switch 74". It works correctly (as far as I can tell) during each switch test. Closed when closed, open when open.

Hitting the tunnel often results in an endless multiball that can last minutes. The machine keeps auto launching after drains.
Any thoughts>?

#2208 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

2 problems (connected?) (L2)
I keep getting "check top lock switch 74". It works correctly (as far as I can tell) during each switch test. Closed when closed, open when open.
Hitting the tunnel often results in an endless multiball that can last minutes. The machine keeps auto launching after drains.
Any thoughts>?

The machine will show an error if a switch isn't used after a certain amount of time but it will still function correctly. Go into test, T3: single switch and enter, cycle through to top lock switch 74, wiggle or hit the switch lever a few times until you hear it beep to clear the error. The switch is located on the right side, in the wire form ramp under the "Donut Heaven"...

I'm not sure what your other issue is, multiball will give you "Free Ride" lit for a certain amount of time but I think I would need more info on what's happening.

#2209 3 years ago

duplicate

#2210 3 years ago

Has anyone every inventoried or had access to a list of hardware used on the playfield (i.e. screws, nuts, washers, etc.)? Most of mine are in bad shape (highly oxidized to the point that it takes away from the overall appearance) and I want to replace them. I just acquired the pin, and am doing some updates along with cleaning/waxing. If I was going to take everything apart a section at a time anyway, I hoping to be prepared ahead of time to put it back together with new hardware.

#2211 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone every inventoried or had access to a list of hardware used on the playfield (i.e. screws, nuts, washers, etc.

Not to my knowledge NO, but you also have to bare in mind that over the years since these machines came from the factory people have lost/changed screws etc, and not always used the correct size. Some sizes may have changed due to the holes being flogged out so a larger screw has been used. I've seen some bloody dodgy examples of things being used for the original part in some of the machines i've had (pretty sure most peeps have too).

#2212 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Has anyone every inventoried or had access to a list of hardware used on the playfield (i.e. screws, nuts, washers, etc.)?

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

#2213 3 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

Yeah, you're not kidding!

#2214 3 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

2 problems (connected?) (L2)
I keep getting "check top lock switch 74". It works correctly (as far as I can tell) during each switch test. Closed when closed, open when open.
Hitting the tunnel often results in an endless multiball that can last minutes. The machine keeps auto launching after drains.
Any thoughts>?

Like tilt said, the game will report a switch error if that switch has not been triggered during several games. I would check all the lock and trough switches. Maybe do a factory reset. Don't know what would cause an unlimited ball save.

#2215 3 years ago

Free ride bug on L2 will do it

#2216 3 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

Okay, that's a lot of screws. Guess I need to try to figure out what is what, and how to decipher the coding.

Thanks for the reference.

#2217 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Yes just the knob. You use the shaft you already have. It was a bitch to get the original knob off:

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I just ordered one of these. Referring to the knob, how did you end up removing it? Did you just cut it off, did you try heat, some other way? Anything else from your experience that would be nice to know before attempting upgrade on my own?

#2218 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I've got one more shipment of pop bumper parts arriving (new bases, and metal rings and new springs) and then I'm going to tackle the pops.
These goodies arrived:
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The perfectionist in me is annoyed that I didnt opt for the dark green skirt instead of the lighter green. Any chance anyone of you has one I can buy?
John, you gonna place an order anytime?

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I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).

#2219 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I just ordered one of these. Referring to the knob, how did you end up removing it? Did you just cut it off, did you try heat, some other way? Anything else from your experience that would be nice to know before attempting upgrade on my own?

Brother it was a major pain in the ass. I took a hack saw to it as well as a Dremel. I cut it in half all the way around with the hacksaw and then cut it vertical with a Dremel. I'm sure there is a smarter, easier way but I'm no rocket surgeon.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).

The light green is def green. Not teal. I had a hard time finding a dark green skirt. By the time I did, I already had installed the entire green pop assembly and I'm satisfied with it. I have the dark green skirt in a box filled with clear, red and white bodies and a ton of cap colors.

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#2220 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Brother it was a major pain in the ass. I took a hack saw to it as well as a Dremel. I cut it in half all the way around with the hacksaw and then cut it vertical with a Dremel. I'm sure there is a smarter, easier way but I'm no rocket surgeon.

The light green is def green. Not teal. I had a hard time finding a dark green skirt. By the time I did, I already had installed the entire green pop assembly and I'm satisfied with it. I have the dark green skirt in a box filled with clear, red and white bodies and a ton of cap colors.

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).pngimage_(resized).pngimage_(resized).png

Well, my shifter just arrived but it does not work. Did not come with instructions on how to change battery. I removed the cap, but just contains the switch as far as I can tell. Searched the web, but cannot find instructions. Any guidance on how to replace batteries is greatly appreciated.

Even with all the work, based on your pics the end result looks well worth it. I was wondering what those shards of black mess were in your photos - Dremel & hacksaw at work?

#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, my shifter just arrived but it does not work. Did not come with instructions on how to change battery. I removed the cap, but just contains the switch as far as I can tell. Searched the web, but cannot find instructions. Any guidance on how to replace batteries is greatly appreciated.
Even with all the work, based on your pics the end result looks well worth it. I was wondering what those shards of black mess were in your photos - Dremel & hacksaw at work?

Yep, all that black crap is shards of original shifter knob. There are several small Allen wrench type of screws in the center of the new shifter. Remove the screws and I'll bet you'll find two dead lithium batteries. Replace them and your good to go.

Here's an image of the dark green skirt next to the green pop

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#2222 3 years ago

Also, this will def help:

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#2223 3 years ago

i just noticed that i can start a game before the multiball locks drain, which causes my game to go in search mode. pretty annoying. is that fixed with newer software maybe?

#2224 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Also, this will def help:

image_(resized).pngimage_(resized).pngimage_(resized).png

2 of the screws are for securing the button at top, the other 4 are faux. When removed, I have nothing inside that points to where a battery should go (I've put batteries in thousands of devices over my long life, but this thing has nothing even resembling battery leads inside of it). The packaging looked like it had been opened before even though sold as new (also no batteries were included even though package said they were), so I'm thinking something is missing and I am going to exchange - 2 more days of waiting . . . bummer!

#2225 3 years ago

Just finished a DYI of the apron graphics. When I got my pin, the apron graphics were shot (all faded to a light pink, could barely make out the "W" logo, etc.) While I found some vinyl stickers online for $30+ s&h, this was a little more than I wanted to pay. My solution was to carefully measure everything then redesign by hand in Photoshop (probably better suited job for Illustrator, but my PS proficiency is far superior). Once designed, I printed onto high gloss ultra photo paper on my Epson 6 color inkjet then cut out everything with a paper cutter (straight lines) and by hand with scissors (curved lines). After cutting, I ran a fine pointed black Sharpie around all edges to cover the exposed white edges of the paper. Finally, I put some double-faced tape on the back around all edges and in center of each graphic, cleaned the apron well, and then stuck everything in place on the apron. I think it came out well (even tough I did not do color match exactly, I'm happy with how it looks), and I saved myself $30+ even though I had to put a couple of hours of labor into it.

See pics below for before & after. Graphics included: center Williams logo (4x6 paper), right apron triangle (5x7 paper), left apron triangle (5x7 paper), right apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper), and left apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper). I also printed both cards on the same printer using high quality photo paper.

PM me if you like, and I'll be happy to provide you with the Photoshop files I made for you to create your own graphics (if you don't have PS, I can convert to high quality PNG, JPG, PDF or whatever other format you may need).

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#2226 3 years ago

Your apron is a huge improvement.

Two lithium batteries sit stacked on each other to power the shift knob mod. I'll see about taking the knob apart tomorrow for you.

#2227 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Just finished a DYI of the apron graphics. When I got my pin, the apron graphics were shot (all faded to a light pink, could barely make out the "W" logo, etc.) While I found some vinyl stickers online for $30+ s&h, this was a little more than I wanted to pay. My solution was to carefully measure everything then redesign by hand in Photoshop (probably better suited job for Illustrator, but my PS proficiency is far superior). Once designed, I printed onto high gloss ultra photo paper on my Epson 6 color inkjet then cut out everything with a paper cutter (straight lines) and by hand with scissors (curved lines). After cutting, I ran a fine pointed black Sharpie around all edges to cover the exposed white edges of the paper. Finally, I put some double-faced tape on the back around all edges and in center of each graphic, cleaned the apron well, and then stuck everything in place on the apron. I think it came out well (even tough I did not do color match exactly, I'm happy with how it looks), and I saved myself $30+ even though I had to put a couple of hours of labor into it.
See pics below for before & after. Graphics included: center Williams logo (4x6 paper), right apron triangle (5x7 paper), left apron triangle (5x7 paper), right apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper), and left apron horizontal lines (8.5x11 paper). I also printed both cards on the same printer using high quality photo paper.
PM me if you like, and I'll be happy to provide you with the Photoshop files I made for you to create your own graphics (if you don't have PS, I can convert to high quality PNG, JPG, PDF or whatever other format you may need).
IMG_0655_(resized).JPG
IMG_0653_(resized).JPG
IMG_0654_(resized).JPG
IMG_0014_(resized).JPG
IMG_0015_(resized).JPG
IMG_0016_(resized).JPG
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VERY nice.

#2228 3 years ago

Nice tantrum! Apron looks sharp! I really like your cards, too.

#2229 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Nice tantrum! Apron looks sharp! I really like your cards, too.

Thanks. I got cards from here: http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction (slight change of size required), but everything else was my work.

#2230 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I was wondering of the light green is actually "teal" when ordering? I am ordering a bunch of stuff from PBL, and this is the only one I see. Shows light green in photo of choices, but only "teal" in drop down selection (I would be happy with light green, but don't want to end up with a bluish-green).

Also, now that I'm thinking of it. I don't know that I bought my green skirt from PBL. I think I got it from Pinball.center so I can't really say what tint that green/teal skirt is going to be. I would email Terry and ask him at PBL before wasting the money.

Ryan

#2231 3 years ago

I love to mod my pin but I usually only do things that can be easily reversed... I just worry if I ever have to sell it (I'm actually thinking of this now, please tell me if I'm crazy) the buyer may want it stock.

#2232 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I love to mod my pin but I usually only do things that can be easily reversed... I just worry if I ever have to sell it (I'm actually thinking of this now, please tell me if I'm crazy) the buyer may want it stock.

Nothing against those that have done the shifter knob mod, but it looks pretty "ricey" to me. I'd rather have the stock one.

Also to answer the guy about locked balls and starting a new game, L5 won't let you start a game either until all the balls are out of the locks.

#2233 3 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

i just noticed that i can start a game before the multiball locks drain, which causes my game to go in search mode. pretty annoying. is that fixed with newer software maybe?

Same happens to me. I just trained my self to wait a second after the game... Let me know if you figure something out!

#2234 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Also to answer the guy about locked balls and starting a new game, L5 won't let you start a game either until all the balls are out of the locks.

I am running L5 and if I hit the start button quickly after a game my machine goes into search mode as well.

#2235 3 years ago
Quoted from jdb9294:

I am running L5 and if I hit the start button quickly after a game my machine goes into search mode as well.

exactly. there's a few secs between the time the lock releases and the balls get registered in the bottom trough that this happens.

if l5 does it, that makes me sad.

#2236 3 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

Does this help? http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt
I'm not sure if it's 100% accurate, but it looks pretty detailed.

Okay, I used this as a reference & did a visual/manual inventory of what I wanted to change on top. I think I got everything I needed ordered and some stuff came from local hardware store, but my conclusion is that whoever owned Williams at the time must have had a brother-in-law who owned a fastener business (i.e. did they really need to use that many different types/sizes of screws?)

Thank you for the reference, as it was very helpful.

#2237 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Nothing against those that have done the shifter knob mod, but it looks pretty "ricey" to me.

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt, I am going more after spaghetti than rice given the theme of the machine . . . vroom, vroom!

#2238 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I love to mod my pin but I usually only do things that can be easily reversed... I just worry if I ever have to sell it (I'm actually thinking of this now, please tell me if I'm crazy) the buyer may want it stock.

Probably 2 kinds of opinions here: 1) the purist and 2) the modder. Personally, I plan on enjoying my machine for years, and I want to put my own creative touches on it to make it unique as long as game play is not adversely impacted. If you are looking at the machine as an investment and plan to own it for a relatively short time then I would say keep it original along with any restorations being accurate to how the machine came. If you are like me, and plan to put it in your game room for years to come (maybe forever), then customize it, enjoy the projects while learning more about the machine, and have fun playing regardless of what anyone else may think about it. Just my 2 cents.

#2239 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt

I could be wrong but i read it as a typo and thought he meant Dicey

#2240 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt, I am going more after spaghetti than rice given the theme of the machine . . . vroom, vroom!

No trolling at all. Just my personal opinion on how that shifter mod looks

now, if you had a Hurst shifter ball on there I'd be loving it.

#2241 3 years ago

For my 2 cents worth though, lol. Although i do like the look of the shifter knob mod (ahmmm that sounds kinda rude ) , if i was going to add that to my machine i would prefer to make up/ have made up a new shaft (as is mentioned in the instructions) for these 2 reasons >> A) using the original shaft and destroying the plastic part is completely NON reversible and B) those things just aren't available any more (at least not as far as i know).

#2242 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Nothing against those that have done the shifter knob mod, but it looks pretty "ricey" to me. I'd rather have the stock one.

I hear ya. To each their own. The game is all about pushing limits and putting the pedal to the metal. That knob is boring and stock. But some owners, hell prob most owners, like their games the way they came. I like going over board and over the top, in case that wasn't already apparent.

#2243 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I could be wrong but i read it as a typo and thought he meant Dicey

No he meant ricey which kinda denotes those rice cars/suped up Fast and the Furious type of cars. Hell I think anyway. Nothing offends me but is that term, ricey, because mostly Asians love those type of vehicles?

#2244 3 years ago

Ya haven't done this yet Grinder

Hydrodipped_cover_(resized).jpg

#2245 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Ya haven't done this yet Grinder

Hydrodipped_cover_(resized).jpg

Hahahahaha!! Maybe even too much for me. I plan to use actual lighter fluid and real flames on mine

#2246 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I plan to use actual lighter fluid and real flames on mine

LMAO and bring out the marshmellows on a stick too.

#2247 3 years ago

And guys, I feel like at times, I'm posting too much in the thread. Just excited and love sharing with people who share a similar interest. Once the game is back together and I'm playing it, I'll be too busy to post, I promise.

#2248 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I hear ya. To each their own. The game is all about pushing limits and putting the pedal to the metal. That knob is boring and stock.

Agreed, do what makes you happy.

#2249 3 years ago

For those of you have done a speaker upgrade, is it really worth it - i.e. is the sound noticeably improved? Can you describe the difference you hear, or better yet make a recording available? I am considering a low cost 1 for 1 replacement of back glass speakers and cab speaker per earlier in this thread.

http://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
http://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-6mb200-4-6-1-2-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--294-2703

btw, how do you get La Grange out of your head for at least 24 hours after playing this pin?

#2250 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hmm, while the comment may be a passive trolling attempt, I am going more after spaghetti than rice given the theme of the machine . . . vroom, vroom!

Not sure what a real Lambo shifter would cost me, but I can't imagine it is cheap.

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