(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • 9,863 posts
  • 366 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 44 of 198.
#2151 3 years ago

Well everything was going so damn well. I just had to light the back three star posts. I connected them to nearby gi and turned it on for one final test. One of the three wasnt working so adjusted the clips and now I've got lights out all over the damn playfield. Like a shit ton of lights. Did I blow a fuse?

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#2152 3 years ago

Can't really tell if there is a blown fuse by looking at the board in a pic so you'll have to test them, I'd also look for a loose wire under the PF but if it's a ton of lights I'm sure it's a fuse or a wire... don't panic you'll find it and fix it up in no time.

#2153 3 years ago

I will say that is one nice thing about the newer boards or replacement boards, the LED lights indicate if the fuse is dead... but it won't matter you'll do it the old fashioned way. Do you have copies of the manual and schematics?

#2154 3 years ago

No I sure don't. I tried inspecting the fuses visually to see if I saw a break in any of them but I couldn't really tell

#2155 3 years ago

Just found this club! Count me in!

#2156 3 years ago

ok, this is far from my strong suit so I would point you to the Tech forums but do you have a multimeter?

If you do, you can test the fuses and if not you should get one...

#2157 3 years ago

I don't have a multimeter. I'll get one tomorrow or see if a neighbor has one

#2158 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I don't have a multimeter. I'll get one tomorrow or see if a neighbor has one

Damnit, what did you do?

#2159 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Damnit, what did you do?

Ha, the hell if I know. Can there be too many leads on one GI light? Everything was going so well until I tried tackling those back star posts.

#2160 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea, I'm digging the red posts and clear rubbers:

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Hey, where did you get those flipper toppers?

#2161 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Ha, the hell if I know. Can there be too many leads on one GI light? Everything was going so well until I tried tackling those back star posts.

There's a short somewhere.

#2162 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea I'm digging it

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Is that yellow or orange, and is that the teal topper with green?

#2163 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hey, where did you get those flipper toppers?

Hit Joe up at Pingraffix.com

Quoted from MustangPaul:

There's a short somewhere.

A short? I'm heading to work, I'll have to try and tackle it tomorrow. I don't think I messed with anything while the lights were on. I don't think I burned any wires with my soldering iron either. It's just crazy that so many lights went out at one time.

#2164 3 years ago

Check your connectors. You more than likely toasted a connection at the pin. I did the same messing with alligators clamps connected to light strips. Now I never fiddle with anything without power off. Need to check fuses as well.

#2165 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Check your connectors. You more than likely toasted a connection at the pin. I did the same messing with alligators clamps connected to light strips. Now I never fiddle with anything without power off. Need to check fuses as well.

Thanks. I try not to fiddle with the lights off either but maybe I had something touching something it shouldn't have when I turned it back on.

If I did toast a connector as you said, what's the remedy? How do I check connectors?

#2167 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey Ryan be safe out there tonight.

Hey, thanks man. Hoping for a quiet night but ya never know.

#2168 3 years ago

Well I got all this, prepared for anything:

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I gave my fuses a closer look and found one with what might have been burn marks on the inside:

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Replaced it here:

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And now all my star post are lit up!

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#2169 3 years ago

Good!

I think that digital multimeter is all you will need.

Go through your manual for a complete fuse list and keep plenty of spare fuses on hand, slo-blow and fast blow as needed. If you don't have the manual you can get a digital PDF copy online to DL and they should be listed inside the backbox too.

If possible, I'd make sure that these lamps are split between the GI strings. LED do draw less power but you don't want to overload one string.

#2170 3 years ago

I don't know if I'm liking the transparent rubbers. I'm thinking either white or black rubbers. Can't decide...

#2171 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Well I got all this, prepared for anything:
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I gave my fuses a closer look and found one with what might have been burn marks on the inside:
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Replaced it here:
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And now all my star post are lit up!

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Looks like your J120 brown wire connector is getting a little brown so keep an eye on that one.

#2172 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Looks like your J120 brown wire connector is getting a little brown so keep an eye on that one.

Hmm yea I see that now. On the right edge. Thank you. Weird. I'll inspect it more when I get home later today. What does J120 power?

#2173 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

What does J120 power?

That's what ya need the manual for.

#2174 3 years ago

I found it:

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It powers playfield G.I. The last thing I need is the connector burning up and destroying my board.

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#2175 3 years ago

If you search the j120 you will see that the J120 is problematic, as I recall it controls several GI strings and is the one that usually gets cooked. Mine did but it's not just the molex, it's the pins on the back side of the board. I repaired my board by replacing the pins and replaced the molex and it continued to fail. I eventually bought a new board and rebuilt the molex connector and it's been trouble free since. LEDs will reduce the load but if its brown that could indicate the pins are failing too, you may want to check that out. If you repair the molex connectors and not the board it may continue to go bad. Hopefully the pins are ok.

#2176 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

If you search the j120 you will see that the J120 is problematic, as I recall it controls several GI strings and is the one that usually gets cooked. Mine did but it's not just the molex, it's the pins on the back side of the board. I repaired my board by replacing the pins and replaced the molex and it continued to fail. I eventually bought a new board and rebuilt the molex connector and it's been trouble free since. LEDs will reduce the load but if its brown that could indicate the pins are failing too, you may want to check that out. If you repair the molex connectors and not the board it may continue to go bad. Hopefully the pins are ok.

All great info. How do I check to see if the pins are failing?

#2177 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks. I try not to fiddle with the lights off either but maybe I had something touching something it shouldn't have when I turned it back on.
If I did toast a connector as you said, what's the remedy? How do I check connectors?

Like Paul said, connectors will be noticeably black/brown if something drew a lot of current like a short. That can melt the plastic connector and damage the pins on the board. The fix is to replace the connector and the pins. I had my connector replaced by did not replace the pins. Lights worked with new connector so didn't bother with the pins. Burnt connectors is pretty common when using incandescent bulbs. Shouldn't be an issue with leds unless you shorted something working on the game with the power on.

I would check all your fuses with the multimeter. They can be bad even when they look okay. Put your multimeter in continuity mode. Put the probes on both ends of the fuse and if the multimeter does not beep, the fuse is bad.

#2178 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

All great info. How do I check to see if the pins are failing?

That's hard to say because there is no fool proof way with out taking off all the molex connectors and pulling the board. You could unpluging the connecter in question and touch the pins, if they wiggle and there's play they've probably been damaged. Also, you could try testing with your multimeter... if they are lose you should reflow them on the back side of the board, my board was too far gone and I had to replace it but that is a big expense and probably unnecessary. Just be careful because molex connecters that are burnt can crumble in your hands. If it were me, I would learn how to rebuild them and replace the female pins and the molex connector to avaoid any potential issues.

Quoted from jawjaw:

Like Paul said, connectors will be noticeably black/brown if something drew a lot of current like a short. That can melt the plastic connector and damage the pins on the board. The fix is to replace the connector and the pins. I had my connector replaced by did not replace the pins. Lights worked with new connector so didn't bother with the pins. Burnt connectors is pretty common when using incandescent bulbs. Shouldn't be an issue with leds unless you shorted something working on the game with the power on.
I would check all your fuses with the multimeter. They can be bad even when they look okay. Put your multimeter in continuity mode. Put the probes on both ends of the fuse and if the multimeter does not beep, the fuse is bad.

This is true, it may be over kill when using LEDs but they still have a load on them and if it's bad it probably would continue to get worse, especially if your adding all that additional lighting. If you only replace the connectors and do not repair the pins at some point the new molex could be damaged and the board could have gotten worse.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-j120-pic

#2179 3 years ago

Thanks guys. Yea I searched and found your old thread about J120 on your Getaway. I'll check the fuses when I get home.

#2180 3 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

PM me your shipping info, and I'll send you a total cost.

You can send designs to many different board houses. I usually use OSH Park because it's a high quality place and I've had good results from them.
Would you like to purchase one too?

BTW, how have your target stickers held up?

#2181 3 years ago

I am a newbie to pinball, and just acquired a Getaway HS2. I am doing a variety of upgrades, and from what I've seen in the forum I like the Red-Yelloy-Green bumper mod with the BriteCaps bumper lighting. My plan was to go with the colored lighting matched to the bumper cap: Red-Red, Yellow-Yellow, Green-Green. However, I have a few questions for those of you who have done it.

1) Did you use colored lighting or white lighting with just a colored cap?
2) Can you buy the caps from BriteCaps that go with the lights or do these not fit our pin?
3) Regardless of #2, I cannot seem to find a transparent green bumper cap from all the suppliers I have found online. Any suggestions?

#2182 3 years ago

For those of you who have gone with the translucent rubber rings, I have a couple of questions:

1) Did you use 2.5" or 3.0" for the slingshots (calls for 2.5", but have read some places that owners of other pins thought they were too tight, so they went with 3")
2) I am looking to acquire from Pinball Life, but they do not carry the 7/16" ID (supplier does not make them). Schematic calls for 8 of these. Is there an alternate supplier or an alternate size I should use (PBL has either 3/4" or 3/8" ID rings).

#2183 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

BTW, how have your target stickers held up?

I don't have any target stickers on my stand ups. Unless you means something else and I'm having a senior moment.
Not sure if you are confusing me with someone else or not.

#2184 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who have gone with the translucent rubber rings, I have a couple of questions:
1) Did you use 2.5" or 3.0" for the slingshots (calls for 2.5", but have read some places that owners of other pins thought they were too tight, so they went with 3")
2) I am looking to acquire from Pinball Life, but they do not carry the 7/16" ID (supplier does not make them). Schematic calls for 8 of these. Is there an alternate supplier or an alternate size I should use (PBL has either 3/4" or 3/8" ID rings).

Check out www.Titanpinball.com for your rubber needs.

#2185 3 years ago

It's a matter of taste but I did not like the translucent rings, I went with colored rings from Titan, something about white light shining through the rubber didn't appeal to me. Maybe if you used colored LEDs then it would be ok but then there is color saturation on the plastics... but the sling is 2.5".

#2186 3 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

It's a matter of taste but I did not like the translucent rings, I went with colored rings from Titan, something about white light shining through the rubber didn't appeal to me. Maybe if you used colored LEDs then it would be ok but then there is color saturation on the plastics... but the sling is 2.5".

Agreed. They are more cloudy than clear. I thought it would look cool with the lights shining through them but not so much. Not sure why but they just don't look right, especially on the slings. I swapped the slings with red ones and they look much better. Someday I will swap the rest but not worth the trouble right now.

I used Titan rubbers with stock sizes. They were very stretchable so not fitment issues. Make sure you are shopping for silicone base rings and not polyurethane. Not sure who else makes silicone rings other than Titan.

#2187 3 years ago

The shop is about to begin on my Getaway. Just got my parts in.

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#2188 3 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

The shop is about to begin on my Getaway. Just got my parts in.

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It's like Christmas! Congrats!

#2189 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

It's like Christmas! Congrats!

Yes it is.

#2190 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I have red, yellow and green jewelled caps on mine. I think they look amazing. Hard to take good photos with my phone but here are a few.

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Where did you get your jeweled caps? I can't seem to find green anywhere. Also, are you using the same color LEDs as caps or white?

#2191 3 years ago

Here are the caps:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1407

I have sampled a ton of cap LEDs but I'm liking the pop bumper LEDs from Comet:

http://www.cometpinball.com/Pinball-Pop-Bumper-LED-Light-p/11smdbmpring.htm

I chose to match the led to the color of the pop but I also wondered how natural or warm white would look in the pops.

Lots of options out there bud. Good luck

#2192 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Where did you get your jeweled caps? I can't seem to find green anywhere. Also, are you using the same color LEDs as caps or white?

Here is a link but they dont seem to have the jeweled Britecaps . Pinball life should have them. The color matched leds came with them if i remember.

#2193 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Oh yea, I'm digging the red posts and clear rubbers:

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Where did you get your high speed flipper toppers? Is there one for the top right flipper?

#2194 3 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Where did you get your high speed flipper toppers? Is there one for the top right flipper?

Joe from Pingraffix.com is your bet. He makes that third flipper topper too

#2195 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks guys. Yea I searched and found your old thread about J120 on your Getaway. I'll check the fuses when I get home.

Pull the fuses to check them, don't leave them in the game when checking.

#2196 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Pull the fuses to check them, don't leave them in the game when checking.

And you do not need to have the machine on to test a fuse...

#2197 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Check your connectors. You more than likely toasted a connection at the pin. I did the same messing with alligators clamps connected to light strips. Now I never fiddle with anything without power off. Need to check fuses as well.

Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks. I try not to fiddle with the lights off either but maybe I had something touching something it shouldn't have when I turned it back on.
If I did toast a connector as you said, what's the remedy? How do I check connectors?

Yes, this should be avoided...

#2198 3 years ago

Ok I'll check all the fuses tonight, no beep means it's bad.

I pulled j120 and inspected the pin as well as the connector. Aside from slightly browning, they both appear ok. I'll have the connector replaced when I do the cabinet.

#2199 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Ok I'll check all the fuses tonight, no beep means it's bad.
I pulled j120 and inspected the pin as well as the connector. Aside from slightly browning, they both appear ok. I'll have the connector replaced when I do the cabinet.

Good news!

You can test for the "beep" in continuity

You can test the resistance with the OHMS

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