(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 20 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 198.
#1801 3 years ago

You can get the 12v power adapter on ebay, mine is variable cuz that's what I had laying around. The mods you buy need to have a 3 pin Molex female adapter put on and you'll have to put one on the power adapter so it plugs into the distribution board. A mod that uses 12v will have the wires on the 2 outside pins and a 5v mod will need 1 inner pin and 1 outer pin. Can't remember just now which outer pin.

#1802 3 years ago

But the accessory outlet is powered even when the game is OFF, right? Probably don't want your speaker lights lit up all the time. I tapped into the A/C wires immediately after the power switch and wired them to a 12V laptop-like power brick to power my tachometer mod in my Getaway. That way it's only ON when the machine is ON.

I talk about it and show a schematic in my 5th tachometer video at 1:02:36.

#1803 3 years ago

Thanks guys. I'll look into it. This is my first WPC game.

You guys have any thoughts on all red or red yellow green led pops?

Here's a picture of the one I'm getting:

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#1804 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

You guys have any thoughts on all red or red yellow green led pops?

I have red, yellow and green jewelled caps on mine. I think they look amazing. Hard to take good photos with my phone but here are a few.

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#1805 3 years ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

But the accessory outlet is powered even when the game is OFF, right? Probably don't want your speaker lights lit up all the time.

Well of course but I have all my games on GOOD surge suppressors (doesn't everybody) so with a flick of a switch ALL power is turned on and off and when games aren't used for an extended period of time I even unplug the suppressors. I've got to much money tied up in these toys to take ANY chances.

#1806 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks guys. I'll look into it. This is my first WPC game.
You guys have any thoughts on all red or red yellow green led pops?
Here's a picture of the one I'm getting:

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I have 2 reds/white bottoms and 1 blue with white bottom and a red led strip in the metal trough tied to the left of the 3 blower lights.

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#1807 3 years ago

All reds on mine.

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#1808 3 years ago

Decisions!!!!!!

Did you guys use the existing caps or did you have to buy another kind to fit the LEDs? Did you get clear? I would get caps to match if I go red yellow green but they don't have a green cap.

And that price is for one led right?

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#1809 3 years ago

If you are going to go tri colour then i would go Red, Orange, Green, There's NO yellow in traffic lights !!! Orange is basically amber after all.

#1810 3 years ago

I prefer the stock look of red caps.

#1811 3 years ago

Tried something with the traffic light. Painted parts black. Also have the light blocking inserts installed.

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#1812 3 years ago

I posted this in the tech section but thought I would copy the same issue here in case any of my fellow owners may have experienced this issue with their Getaway. Any thoughts, comments, ideas would be much appreciated..
Thanks..
The low-powered solenoids on my Getaway (coils 9-16) stopping working. The low powered coils are: the ball eject hole, Diverter low, Ball Release (trough), Shooter plunger kicker, top, left and bottom jet bumpers and the outhole. Also, the Mars revolving lamp stopped working. The game boots up and plays except the above solenoids are not working. I entered solenoid diagnostic test and none of the above coils fired when i tested each individually. The Mars rotating lamp did not work in Solenoid test either. The first thing I checked was Fuse 104 (3A-SB). that protects the Low powered solenoid circuit. The fuse tested Ok, but I put a new one in anyway. So fuse is not issue. I then checked to see that I had DC voltage at the solenoids with the game in attract mode. I checked both lugs on each of the solenoids 9-16 and get solid 73.4 volts on each lug of every coil, so all the coils are getting power. All of the power driver board diagnostic LEDs are lit for power including the 20v. I then tested to make sure the coil and power were working together by using a jumper to ground the coil to the side rail and each coil fired when temporarily grounded per Clay's guides for testing coils. I then checked the tip 102 transistors for each of the coils using Clay's procedure of grounding the transistor tab to the BB ground braid using a jumper wire. Each coil fired as it should when jumpering the tab to ground. The switch matrix is working and registering for each of the switches associated with the coils as well.
Any thoughts, suggestions, or ideas of what I should consider or check next?

#1813 3 years ago

U-4 on the power driver board. It controls coils 9-16. The mars lamp is something else, did you do the ground test for it?

#1814 3 years ago

Thanks. I will check U4 on the pdb. Can you explain the ground test for the Mars lamp?

#1815 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Can you explain the ground test for the Mars lamp?

Quoted from Chet:

I then checked the tip 102 transistors for each of the coils using Clay's procedure of grounding the transistor tab to the BB ground braid using a jumper wire.

This is the ground test. But it doesn't check the TIPs, it checks the power, the coils and the wires up to the TIPs. But in your problem I don't think that you have nine TIPs that are bad. U-4 controls eight of the nine in question so I would start there with a logic probe.

#1816 3 years ago

Thanks Grumpy! I have an Elenco LP as recommended by Terryb but really have not used it since I got it. Would the best way to test U-4 in the game, by first testing a U-4 in a known working game to see what kind of readings/pulses I get and then compare to the suspect one in Getaway? Not sure otherwise what I would be looking for. Should I use 12v or 5 volt to power the probe when testing U-4? thanks..

#1817 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Should I use 12v or 5 volt

Five volt.

Quoted from Chet:by first testing a U-4 in a known working game to see what kind of readings/pulses I get and then compare to the suspect one in Getaway

Not needed but not a bad idea either.

Quoted from Chet:Not sure otherwise what I would be looking for.

Pick any coil that's not working such as #9. Follow the schematics from coil #9 TIP back thru its predriver to an output that comes from U-4. Put the game in coil test and stop on coil #9 then check the output of U-4 for pulses . I can give more detail from home when I have schematics in front of me.

#1818 3 years ago

Thanks Grumpy, I will give this a try when I get back home.

#1819 3 years ago

When you get home use your AF for refference. Turn it on and go to coil test, lock it on coil 16 left magnet. This should be Q-44, leave the coin door open as there is no need to power the magnet for what you are testing. Find U-4 on the PDB, pin 12 should pulse at the same speed that the test fires coils. Then check the HS2 with the same test settings for coil 16. U-4 pin 12 isn't pulsing. Then check R-254, one side should be 5 volts the other should have pulses. You can confirn this on AF. Let me know what you find.

#1820 3 years ago

I can not use my TAF. It is totally on the fritz. I have a separate long thread on trying to resolve problem. I am getting 4.99v on r 254 in hs2. I checked the output on pin 12 of u4 With game on solenoid test running for the out hole coil 16(q44). I got steady red ( high) but no pulsing to low. I did a check on my creature using the out hole solenoid test running, u4 pin 16 coil 12 in that case. I have schematic for my creature but not hs2. I got the high to low pulse with out hole firing. So verified that my LP is working correctly. Since no pulse to low on hs2, is u4 suspect?

#1821 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

I am getting 4.99v on r 254 in hs2

On both sides? It should have pulses on one side.

Quoted from Chet:Since no pulse to low on hs2, is u4 suspect?

Maybe, but you need to check the inputs to U-4 first.

Quoted from Chet:I did a check on my creature

This is fine as they are the same boards.

#1822 3 years ago

resistor 254 has 4.99 v on one side only. No pulse, just steady red high/ continuous tone on the other side of the resistor. I don't have schematic for my HS2. The inputs to U4 come from the cpu via ribbon cable at J113 correct? Any suggestions on how to test inputs with the LP. Again, my first time at using this tool. If the CPU is not toggling U4, then it could be a CPU board issue possibly?

#1823 3 years ago

Dispatch, Car 264 (my actual car number) is officially in the club!!

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#1824 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Again, my first time at using this tool. If the CPU is not toggling U4, then it could be a CPU board issue possibly?

Yes, but first flip the ribbon cable end for end. Then retest and see if the problem has changed.

#1825 3 years ago

Thanks, Grumpy, it worked. I reversed the ribbon cable and played a couple of games, everything worked fine. I just ordered new CPU - PDB ribbon cables from Marco, Ed was out of stock on them. I am hoping this is the problem I will continue to play more games and install my new ribbon cables in all my WPC games when they get here. what causes a cable to go bad, just oxidation, game is in very dry heated and cooled basement. Had it for over 6 years, no problems. Now if I can get my TAF fixed I will be in good shape. thanks for your help.

#1826 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

I just ordered new CPU - PDB ribbon cables from Marco

Glad it was an easy fix.

#1827 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Dispatch, Car 264 (my actual car number) is officially in the club!!

image_(resized).jpegimage_(resized).jpeg

Finally. Now play the heck out of it.

#1828 3 years ago

Is there a chance that L2 or L5 fire in-game sound effects as a warning that something is failing a test?

I have L1. I bought L5 a while back and when I plugged it in, the game was unplayable because of a siren-y sound effect that fired non stop. I returned it thinking it defective, and the replacement did the same thing.

Fast forward to today. I picked up an L2 rom and a new sound ROM, thinking between them, they should work. I get a different sound effect (the time-to-shift-gears) firing quite often during game play.

I have brand new ribbon cables, and everything is freshly re-seated.

It kind of seems like these sound effects are firing for a reason at this point, so I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this?

#1829 3 years ago

No,
Something is up? Have you another cpu board to try?
New game to you?

#1830 3 years ago

Sold my Getaway at the weekend.
Sorry to see it go but gotta make space for another game.
Its been fun boys!

#1831 3 years ago

I just bought a set of new cabinet decals for my new Getaway. I plan on getting a full set of polished chrome trim as well. How long is it safe to leave the decals in the container they come shipped in? Should I take them out and press/lay them on a flat surface?

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#1832 3 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Is there a chance that L2 or L5 fire in-game sound effects as a warning that something is failing a test?
I have L1. I bought L5 a while back and when I plugged it in, the game was unplayable because of a siren-y sound effect that fired non stop. I returned it thinking it defective, and the replacement did the same thing.
Fast forward to today. I picked up an L2 rom and a new sound ROM, thinking between them, they should work. I get a different sound effect (the time-to-shift-gears) firing quite often during game play.
I have brand new ribbon cables, and everything is freshly re-seated.
It kind of seems like these sound effects are firing for a reason at this point, so I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this?

Doesn't sound normal to me. The only diagnostic sounds I know of are at bootup and they are not in game sounds. That's pretty obvious, though. I went from L5 to L2 without any issues. I would push down on all the chips on the board and make sure they are seated all the way down.

My Congo made some random screech noises during gameplay when I first got it. It had nothing to do with game sounds - more like distortion. Eventually it lost all sound and was related to issues with the sound board. If you pressed on the board in the right spot, sound would work. I had to ship the board out for repairs.

#1833 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Doesn't sound normal to me. The only diagnostic sounds I know of are at bootup and they are not in game sounds. That's pretty obvious, though. I went from L5 to L2 without any issues. I would push down on all the chips on the board and make sure they are seated all the way down.
My Congo made some random screech noises during gameplay when I first got it. It had nothing to do with game sounds - more like distortion. Eventually it lost all sound and was related to issues with the sound board. If you pressed on the board in the right spot, sound would work. I had to ship the board out for repairs.

Yeah, it's wacky, eh? Everything's reseated and pushed in tight in the machine. So strange that the issues are specific to having the L-1 rom installed though. I think I'll recap the sound board, as a hail mary effort.

#1834 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I just bought a set of new cabinet decals for my new Getaway. I plan on getting a full set of polished chrome trim as well. How long is it safe to leave the decals in the container they come shipped in? Should I take them out and press/lay them on a flat surface?

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Nice. They will make your game look new.

#1835 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Dispatch, Car 264 (my actual car number) is officially in the club!!

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Looks awesome!!!

#1836 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Nice. They will make your game look new.

Quoted from TxJay:

Looks awesome!!!

Thanks guys. And thanks James for all the work on your end. So any thoughts on how long the decals I bought will be good for? It may be a few months before I get the new decals applied. Is it safe to keep them in whatever tube they come with?

I'm putting new rubbers on and debating whether to keep the clear star posts and go red rubbers or go red star posts and go clear rubbers.

These skinny red posts in the picture. Just for decoration? They don't see any purpose I can find:

Also

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#1837 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

They don't see any purpose I can find:

They keep balls from getting trapped on top the plastics.

#1838 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

They keep balls from getting trapped on top the plastics.

Thanks Grumpy, you've been a huge help to a lot of us. What's your opinion on how best to store the cabinet decals till they are applied?

#1839 3 years ago

Do you have the room to store them flat, put them between two pieces of cardboard behind the back of the pinball machine.

#1840 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you have the room to store them flat, put them between two pieces of cardboard behind the back of the pinball machine.

Sure I can find space to store them in a climate controlled room and I'll get enough cardboard to lay them flat. Thanks

#1841 3 years ago

Nice target decals. Do you know where to obtain them? Thx!

#1842 3 years ago

Anyone know of a possible source for an original translite? Preferably new.

#1844 3 years ago

Thanks!

#1845 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I'm putting new rubbers on and debating whether to keep the clear star posts and go red rubbers or go red star posts and go clear rubbers.
These skinny red posts in the picture. Just for decoration? They don't see any purpose I can find:
Also

Looking good Grinder, actually on the hunt for my third HS2, maybe I can keep this one finally.

#1846 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Looking good Grinder, actually on the hunt for my third HS2, maybe I can keep this one finally.

Thanks man. It's coming along. I'm so damn torn about white, clear or red rubbers. Decisions!

#1847 3 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks man. It's coming along. I'm so damn torn about white, clear or red rubbers. Decisions!

The clear looks good on the red posts, maybe use some red rubbers around the white/clear areas.

#1848 3 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Anyone know of a possible source for an original translite? Preferably new.

Not interested in the PPS reproduction?
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPA-31-1357-50004NG&Store_Code=PP

#1849 3 years ago

Those are Sick! I did not even think to check with them. Thanks!

#1850 3 years ago

Ok guys, here is the skinny on keeping graphics long term before applying them. I am a professional graphics installer with almost 25 years installing every graphic you can imagine from 2 sq ft to thousands. You are better off keeping them in the tube long term. Keep the tube taped up and not exposed to any air. Laying them out flat is only ok if you plan to install them soon. The key is to make sure the graphic is rolled image out, not in when. It is in the tube. This will prevent any "tunneling" of the graphic on the liner which will allow the adhesive to become exposed to the air. Just keep it sealed air tight and apply as soon as you can. Just lay flat 24 to 48 hrs prior to installation. Most graphics are ok to store in a room temperature average humidity enviorment for up to a year without any issues. Again the key is making sure the graphics is rolled image out. Hope this helps.

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