Quoted from MustangPaul:I've always shared my mod ideas cuz I think they improve the look of the game and many I have posted I've posted as DIY
I've sure nicked a few of ya ideas MP
Quoted from MustangPaul:I've always shared my mod ideas cuz I think they improve the look of the game and many I have posted I've posted as DIY
I've sure nicked a few of ya ideas MP
Quoted from Mancave:I've sure nicked a few of ya ideas MP
Yeah for sure.....maybe I should start charging a design fee for my ideas.
Quoted from BigDan:I wanted the most light output while keeping the High Speed series specific caps so I went Evo Brite caps. They have 34+ LED's, are dimable and can be reactive.
IMG_2959_(resized).JPG
bc_evo-4_(resized).jpg
Anyone else sometimes feel like they should keep their mods on the DL so a bunch of people don't copy your unique one of a kind perhaps pin should you go to sell? IDK, when I mod my vehicles I don't usually go on the forums and show them off so people wont copy but that was in the past I don't seem to be that way with pinball, I probably should be though, because I have aspirations of doing some sort of modding/restoration online content review, but I don't know how I want to approach it just yet.
What brand LEDs are you using in your game? Did you add LEDs under the mountain or factory mountain plastic? I don't mind sharing car mods on my C5 when I go to shows or on the forum in the past. Your game looks great!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Put a purple strip over the lane behind the CS, works great to light it up back there.
MustangPaul, Is the purple LED strip mounted to under side of the supercharger itself and where do you tap into power? Thanks..
No it's mounted on the pf backboard and hangs over the pf behind the sc. Just tap into any gi bulb in the area.
Now i get. thanks! I have a purple comet strip looking for a home. This looks like a good fit for it. that back left corner is dark on Getaway for sure
Quoted from Chet:Now i get. thanks! I have a purple comet strip looking for a home. This looks like a good fit for it. that back left corner is dark on Getaway for sure
I can't find the picture of mine but I went to the hardware store and picked up a metal T corner bracket that one side was as long as the strip and cut the other piece of it so it hung over the pf just right right, drilled a hole in the metal and screwed it to the top of the wood back board. Worked like a champ for about a buck.
Quoted from Da_Topper:What brand LEDs are you using in your game? Did you add LEDs under the mountain or factory mountain plastic? I don't mind sharing car mods on my C5 when I go to shows or on the forum in the past. Your game looks great!
Thanks for the compliment. You should see it now that I've added my reflective blades and put the finishing touches on it. That pic was just a work in progress. I used Comet 2 SMD LED's for just about everything on the play field and like the Coin Taker 6 LED light strips where extra light is needed along with my spot lights. As for my mountain I added a 6 SMD 12 Volt LED pad from Comet in ice blue.
I dont mind sharing vehicle mods if I was at a show or someone asked, I just don't want to post it on Pintrist because I'm using a later model body color painted bumper and grill on my vehicle which gives you the look of having a a much nicer chrome-less 8-10 year newer looking vehicle.
I have also joined the club. I have installed comet pinball leds in the playfield and backbox. I have also installed spotlights on the slingshots, they really brighten up the middle of the playfield, so I can play it without ambient lighting in the room. It's a simple, but effective mod, that I strongly recommend installing. I'll post some pictures soon.
Quoted from E_Gpinball:I have also joined the club. I have installed comet pinball leds in the playfield and backbox. I have also installed spotlights on the slingshots, they really brighten up the middle of the playfield, so I can play it without ambient lighting in the room. It's a simple, but effective mod, that I strongly recommend installing. I'll post some pictures soon.
Welcome to the Club, Pinballbulbs double spots are even better, I have 3 of them on mine and a Comet 6.3v purple 7 led strip in the center drain.
Quoted from E_Gpinball:I have also joined the club. I have installed comet pinball leds in the playfield and backbox. I have also installed spotlights on the slingshots, they really brighten up the middle of the playfield, so I can play it without ambient lighting in the room. It's a simple, but effective mod, that I strongly recommend installing. I'll post some pictures soon.
Ive got all comet leds on mine as well, plan on doing the 3 led strips under the gauges and ramp in the back left of the playfield. Please post pics of the spots because ive been wanting to brighten the middle of my playfield! Thanks!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Welcome to the Club, Pinballbulbs double spots are even better, I have 3 of them on mine and a Comet 6.3v purple 7 led strip in the center drain.
The double spots from pinball bulbs is what I got. I put 1 on each sling, where did you put the 3rd spotlight? Above the middle flipper?
I am considering adding led strips, but I'm looking at getting an ocd board...
Here are the pictures of my playfield with and without spotlights. There is some ambient light from the room and the spotlights are incandescent while most the game uses leds. I set the camera on my tablet to the same exposure level, to create a direct comparison between the two lighting setups. I think the pictures do make the point, but it looks much better in person than they do in my shots.
I will upgrade my spotlights to warm-white leds, which ones should I consider given that I want the light to spread rather than having an intense narrow beam? Comet Pinball's "Optix Maximus," a standard smd5050 (frosted) bulb, or something else?
Quoted from E_Gpinball:The double spots from pinball bulbs is what I got. I put 1 on each sling, where did you put the 3rd spotlight? Above the middle flipper?
I am considering adding led strips, but I'm looking at getting an ocd board...
You only have one spot on each sling. Oups, I only have one double above the middle flipper. I have a white 7 led strip cut to 4 under each gauge plastic. I have Comet white Crystal Fan bulbs in my double.
Quoted from Pinfreak:These are the mods I made for my Getaway HSII >>>> » YouTube video
I def like the LED lights on the top as an update to the beacon. I may look to do that and then just remove the beacon. Where did you buy your parts?
chris
Rebuilt my ramp assembly today and now when the ramp is in the up position, the ball hits the bottom of the ramp going either way. There is some adjustment on the arm that lifts the ramp but the pin that lifts the ramp and the nylon nut to hold it to the arm are basically at the very end of that arm. It was not like this before I rebuilt the unit. I'm wondering if the actual arm was a little shorter that the one I had in there? I tried adjusting the armature spring to allow the arm to raise a little more, but not really working. I suppose I can just leave the pin to the ramp on the very tip of the arm and it clears but doesn't seem right. Any insight or something I over looked is much appreciated. Thanks.
Anyone on L-2 (possibly other ROMs) ever see a bug where after the first Red Line Mania if you start another multiball (regular or redline) then the game tries to shoot two balls into the shooter lane?
Quoted from steve1515:Anyone on L-2 (possibly other ROMs) ever see a bug where after the first Red Line Mania if you start another multiball (regular or redline) then the game tries to shoot two balls into the shooter lane?
Can you reproduce it every time with the glass off using the same steps?
-mof
Quoted from mof:Can you reproduce it every time with the glass off using the same steps?
No, I can't make it happen every time. I was just playing around with the glass off and I couldn't get it to happen. I'll have to try to write down the sequence of what happened while playing when it happens and then try again to reproduce it. If no one else has ever seen it happen on theirs then maybe I have a hardware issue somewhere.
Quoted from indypinhead:Now you need my stoplight mod...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-the-getaway-stoplight-mod
Just installed this mod yesterday. Takes just as long to pull the glass as it does to install. And it really reduces the light. It actually looks correct now. Nice Mod Tim.
Thanks
Also I'm excited to be part of the club. This is my 3rd Steve Richie game and I'm loving it. Did an LED swap and swapped out the post sleeves for Red.
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:Rebuilt my ramp assembly today and now when the ramp is in the up position, the ball hits the bottom of the ramp going either way. There is some adjustment on the arm that lifts the ramp but the pin that lifts the ramp and the nylon nut to hold it to the arm are basically at the very end of that arm. It was not like this before I rebuilt the unit. I'm wondering if the actual arm was a little shorter that the one I had in there? I tried adjusting the armature spring to allow the arm to raise a little more, but not really working. I suppose I can just leave the pin to the ramp on the very tip of the arm and it clears but doesn't seem right. Any insight or something I over looked is much appreciated. Thanks.
The up (latched) ramp height is set by the "catch" on the left of the bottom plate of the small relay (see pic below). You can change the height at which the ramp is latched by moving the entire small solenoid assembly to the right. Loosen the Philips screw at the top of the small coil and move the latch assembly to the right. There's also some small amount of play where the "catch" attaches to the moving plate by two philips screws. Loosen those screws (you'll need to remove the small relay assembly by removing the big Philips) and slide the "catch" as far to the right as you can. With everything pushed to the right, I have more than enough height for the ball to pass under the ramp without interference. But if it's TOO high, the ramp may not latch in the UP position (I explain more below). You may have to find the right "middle ground" setting.
The only other thing I can think of is adjusting the height of the ramp pin on the top of the playfield but it sounds like you've already tried messing with that.
You may run into the problem I currently have - when the latch/catch is set so that the UP ramp height is high enough to clear the ball, the UP solenoid (the big one) doesn't seem to go far enough to get the ramp high enough to latch. It latches fine manually (by pulling in the large solenoid's plunger manually), but fails when using the solenoid. I can get it to latch by lowering the ramp height, but then I have the same problem you do - the ball hits the ramp. Hopefully you won't have this issue. It's not clear to me what my problem is. We took slow motion of video of the ramp trying to go up, and the arm/pin assembly is rocking from side to side a lot - it could be creating friction/stiction that slows the ramp going up so it doesn't get high enough before the solenoid turns off. This is a really finicky mechanism...
Anyway, I hope this helps and that you have better luck than I've been having!
I hope to have a magnet mod design to show for this title in coming days. We are just polishing up the concept art.
Quoted from NinJaBooT:I hope to have a magnet mod design to show for this title in coming days. We are just polishing up the concept art.
If it's as eye pleasing as the FT one i'll be first in line
Quoted from yonkiman:The up (latched) ramp height is set by the "catch" on the left of the bottom plate of the small relay (see pic below). You can change the height at which the ramp is latched by moving the entire small solenoid assembly to the right. Loosen the Philips screw at the top of the small coil and move the latch assembly to the right. There's also some small amount of play where the "catch" attaches to the moving plate by two philips screws. Loosen those screws (you'll need to remove the small relay assembly by removing the big Philips) and slide the "catch" as far to the right as you can. With everything pushed to the right, I have more than enough height for the ball to pass under the ramp without interference. But if it's TOO high, the ramp may not latch in the UP position (I explain more below). You may have to find the right "middle ground" setting.
HS2_ramp_(resized).jpg
The only other thing I can think of is adjusting the height of the ramp pin on the top of the playfield but it sounds like you've already tried messing with that.
You may run into the problem I currently have - when the latch/catch is set so that the UP ramp height is high enough to clear the ball, the UP solenoid (the big one) doesn't seem to go far enough to get the ramp high enough to latch. It latches fine manually (by pulling in the large solenoid's plunger manually), but fails when using the solenoid. I can get it to latch by lowering the ramp height, but then I have the same problem you do - the ball hits the ramp. Hopefully you won't have this issue. It's not clear to me what my problem is. We took slow motion of video of the ramp trying to go up, and the arm/pin assembly is rocking from side to side a lot - it could be creating friction/stiction that slows the ramp going up so it doesn't get high enough before the solenoid turns off. This is a really finicky mechanism...
Anyway, I hope this helps and that you have better luck than I've been having!
Awesome, thanks, I never thought about moving the small coil. The 2 screws that you mention to adjust the catch, in the picture the screws are underneath that assembly, so if I remove the big screw on top of the coil I can remove that assembly to get to the screws underneath right? Can I do this all with the playfield fully raised and without removing wires to that assembly?
Quoted from Lethal_Inc:Awesome, thanks, I never thought about moving the small coil. The 2 screws that you mention to adjust the catch, in the picture the screws are underneath that assembly, so if I remove the big screw on top of the coil I can remove that assembly to get to the screws underneath right? Can I do this all with the playfield fully raised and without removing wires to that assembly?
Yep. The coil will dangle while you're making the adjustments but that should be fine. Let me know how it goes!
I use lithium batteries and replace them every five years, I change the batteries with the game turned on so I don't lose my settings.
Quoted from Sticky:How often do you guys replace the batteries? Also, do I lose my high scores when I replace them?
Quoted from Sticky:How often do you guys replace the batteries? Also, do I lose my high scores when I replace them?
I use NVRAM in all my machines and never have to worry about battery changes EVER again
Quoted from Mancave:I use NVRAM in all my machines and never have to worry about battery changes EVER again
Ok I'm intrigued. What is NVRAM?
Quoted from Sticky:Ok I'm intrigued. What is NVRAM?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/installing-barakandls-nvram-battery-eliminator-vids-review
Read through this and it should be clearer than myself trying to explain it
There are other "brands" of NVRAM as well i might add, all do the same thing.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I use lithium batteries and replace them every five years, I change the batteries with the game turned on so I don't lose my settings.
Lithium is where its at! Thats great advice leaving the game on while replacing.
Has anybody installed these "Next Generation version 2" cabinet decals for The Getaway?
It says its using a "Next gen process that are using new machines that can can produce a high gloss product that is better then a brand new one."
This really interests me because I never liked how dull and non-glossy some of the reproduction side cabinet art looked and kept me from buying it. The decals look glossy in this ad but I'm skeptical until I see them installed because the old versions looked like factory and I didn't think they looked the same on a few that Ive seen installed. Its hard on black I guess, or at least that what they say, I can say its the black that gives it away so much from looking different.
ebay ad
ebay.com link: GETAWAY HIGH SPEED II Pinball Machine Cabinet Decals Limited QTY NEXT GEN
I just installed the nex gen v.20 cab decals on my Whirlwind. I am not any kind of expert, but I feel like they are excellent. To, me they look and and even feel like real paint and they went on very nice using the dry method. Colors are deep and vibrant. I have not installed the HS2's decals, but I would not hesitate to get them.
Quoted from Chet:I just installed the nex gen v.20 cab decals on my Whirlwind. I am not any kind of expert, but I feel like they are excellent. To, me they look and and even feel like real paint and they went on very nice using the dry method. Colors are deep and vibrant. I have not installed the HS2's decals, but I would not hesitate to get them.
This. I installed a set on a Fish Tales and the quality was top notch and the ink even felt raised.
Quoted from Chet:I just installed the nex gen v.20 cab decals on my Whirlwind. I am not any kind of expert, but I feel like they are excellent. To, me they look and and even feel like real paint and they went on very nice using the dry method. Colors are deep and vibrant. I have not installed the HS2's decals, but I would not hesitate to get them.
Quoted from LongJohns:This. I installed a set on a Fish Tales and the quality was top notch and the ink even felt raised.
Thanks were they from the same seller or are they from someone else?
Quoted from biglaw:still restoring getaway. keep adding mods. just about got this one done. gauges in speaker panel lit.
IMAG0152_getaway_panel_(resized).jpgIMAG0153_getaway_panel_1_(resized).jpgIMAG0154_getaway_panel_2_(resized).jpg
Nice, I was wondering when someone was going to do this. I hope those bad boys don't melt your plastic. Do you have them running on lower voltage?
Thanks MustangPaul also used your lit sling gauges idea to. got to figure out where to wire them in. there 12v dc. pic is running them with 9v dc
Yeah the slings do light up nice and now you have all the gauges lit which is way cool. Did you try running them at 7v yet?
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