(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



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  • 9,863 posts
  • 366 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
    6%
  • L2 137 votes
    51%
  • L3 8 votes
    3%
  • L5 91 votes
    34%
  • P7 7 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    3%

(Multiple choice - 267 votes by 266 Pinsiders)

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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 198.
#1551 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

This is driving me nuts. As I've gotten better at playing the pin I can get three balls into donut heaven to start multi-ball consistently each game. The problem is the third ball never gets released staying on the second hook/sensor. So the machine keeps going and I have to remove the glass and manually push it out as it just stays there for some reason. This picture should help illustrate what I mean:
multiball.jpg
It only happens in the multi-ball and any other time there are balls locked the game releases them after the final ball drains without issue. What could be causing this only during multi-ball?
It's no longer fun to play when every time I get the donut heaven multi-ball I have to remove the glass to push the ball out otherwise the machine just sits there going through the solenoids trying to dislodge a ball.
How do I fix this?

The weight of the three balls is what lets the first 2 balls get released so when it comes time to release the 3rd one there's not enough weight to push it past the switch. What's the pitch of the game? All this is just a guess.

#1552 3 years ago

Sticky, I have had the same problem lately. When I was using L5 rom, it always dumped all 3 balls at once. When I switched to L2, the game sometimes sent one or two at a time. Lately, one is often left stuck in the lock. However, I don't have to take the glass off. Eventually the third ball is let loose. I would start with checking your ball lock switches.

#1553 3 years ago
Quoted from boogies:

IIRC, this game REQUIRES upgraded leaf switches. Something like gold contacts.
Without them, the flippers can be intermittent.
Hopefullly someone will chime in with a link.

I've used these from Pl: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=152

I hope they're not the cause.

#1554 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

This is driving me nuts. As I've gotten better at playing the pin I can get three balls into donut heaven to start multi-ball consistently each game. The problem is the third ball never gets released staying on the second hook/sensor. So the machine keeps going and I have to remove the glass and manually push it out as it just stays there for some reason. This picture should help illustrate what I mean:
multiball.jpg
It only happens in the multi-ball and any other time there are balls locked the game releases them after the final ball drains without issue. What could be causing this only during multi-ball?
It's no longer fun to play when every time I get the donut heaven multi-ball I have to remove the glass to push the ball out otherwise the machine just sits there going through the solenoids trying to dislodge a ball.
How do I fix this?

It's the switch it is laying against - the switch has just enough force to not let the ball go past it without the weight of the other balls pushing. I had this issue on both that switch, and the 3rd switch in donut heaven at well. It took a bunch of trial and error making minor bends in the switches, but eventually it settled in without problems anymore. But yeah, they are a pain to get right. Take off the metal piece on top and leave it off for a little while while you make the adjustments and play some games so you have easy access to the switches.

#1555 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Sticky, I have had the same problem lately. When I was using L5 rom, it always dumped all 3 balls at once. When I switched to L2, the game sometimes sent one or two at a time. Lately, one is often left stuck in the lock. However, I don't have to take the glass off. Eventually the third ball is let loose. I would start with checking your ball lock switches.

Yours sounds like a slightly different issue - yours is the switch itself not registering closed, so you have to wait for the ball search to lower the stopper to release it. On the other guy's - it's an actual physical issue with the switch having enough force to not let the ball go past it on it's own. So your switch needs adjusted so that it always registers a close with the ball on it, and the other guy's needs to adjust the switch slightly higher so the ball has enough force to make it's way past the switch.

#1556 3 years ago

I redid a Getaway for a friend with L5. Long story short I needed to clean up the disappearing post, replace the coil and tweak it. It was dropping the post to let all three balls out. Thought it was normal but people on here told me it's not. Perhaps it's just that simple Sticky?

#1558 3 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

Back when I was doing the flasher swap I had a screw fall into a flasher socket (left side GI under bushes)and unknowingly installed the flasher bulb. When I turned the machine on the fuse blew and I went hunting and found the screw under the flasher bulb, replaced the fuse and now these 3 flashers are having this issue.

This is pretty amazing !! I did exactly the same thing. I was doing some work on the playfield , turned the game on and a fuse blew. After looking everywhere for the short i finally figured it out. I had dropped a screw into the exact same socket and had the exact same issues you had. What are the odds! Anyways , my friend came over a diagnosed it as a bad transistor. I can pretty much guarantee your is exactly the same issue. Im not sure which transistor is changed, he just tested all of the with a dmm and founbd the bad one.

#1559 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

This is pretty amazing !! I did exactly the same thing. I was doing some work on the playfield , turned the game on and a fuse blew. After looking everywhere for the short i finally figured it out. I had dropped a screw into the exact same socket and had the exact same issues you had. What are the odds! Anyways , my friend came over a diagnosed it as a bad transistor. I can pretty much guarantee your is exactly the same issue. Im not sure which transistor is changed, he just tested all of the with a dmm and founbd the bad one.

Thanks, I was hoping it had happened to someone else. I was figuring I cant be the first guy that this has happened to which is why I got more descriptive.

Does anybody here know which transistor needs replacing?

I just read through the "How to test a transistor" thread and hunting down this transistor is going to be a bit over my head in skill level. I don't know how to read schematics and my DMM is pretty basic (doesn't beep) and so are my skills, but I can replace a bad transistor, finding out which one went bad is not in my bag of skills. Most of the info I read was testing transistors that were off the board. I could probably test a few if I knew where to look and what to look for.

Thanks

#1560 3 years ago

I'll take a close look at the board for you tonight. Maybe I can tell which one he replaced. I know the general area where it was.

#1561 3 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Having trouble with the color DMD (or more properly the 14-pin ribbon connector) in my Getaway. The ribbon connector keeps coming loose from the DMD controller board just enough that the DMD goes fuzzy. As soon as I push the connector all the way back in at the board the problem is solved, but it keeps coming loose nevertheless. Anyone have ideas on how to keep this from happening? The board itself is not loose nor are the header pins for the connector.

Do like Stern does on their games, put some hot glue on the connector to keep it together. Or replace the cable.

#1562 3 years ago
Quoted from DocRotCod:

JOESCHALL said:Having trouble with the color DMD (or more properly the 14-pin ribbon connector) in my Getaway. The ribbon connector keeps coming loose from the DMD controller board just enough that the DMD goes fuzzy. As soon as I push the connector all the way back in at the board the problem is solved, but it keeps coming loose nevertheless. Anyone have ideas on how to keep this from happening? The board itself is not loose nor are the header pins for the connector.
Do like Stern does on their games, put some hot glue on the connector to keep it together. Or replace the cable.

I have tried replacing the cable, but gotten the same result. I'll research further and consider the hot glue idea. Many thanks.

#1563 3 years ago

Does anyone have a source for new speaker grills with the W's on them for Getaway. Or good ideas on reproducing it.

Thanks Arnie

#1564 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I'll take a close look at the board for you tonight. Maybe I can tell which one he replaced. I know the general area where it was.

THANK YOU

That would be much appreciated.

Many Pinside Karma points for you.

#1565 3 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

THANK YOU

That would be much appreciated.

Many Pinside Karma points for you.

Ok, I took a look and most of the transistors are dusty except for Q51 and Q53 . They seem clean so i assume it must have been one of them. Let me know if either one is it.

#1566 3 years ago
Quoted from ArnieC:

Does anyone have a source for new speaker grills with the W's on them for Getaway. Or good ideas on reproducing it.
Thanks Arnie

Check out post # 623 of the Space Station Club thread, toyotaboy did that.

#1567 3 years ago

What's my best shot at finding a replacement plastic for the speaker grill area?

-mof

#1569 3 years ago

Wow -- thanks! I wonder what shipping is on that -- I couldn't get a quote without becoming a signed up customer.
-mof

#1570 3 years ago
Quoted from BigDan:

Does anybody here know which transistor needs replacing?

Look on page 103 of the manual and tell us which number flasher lamp is stuck on. Then I can tell you which transistor/ pretransistor needs to be replaced.

#1571 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Look on page 103 of the manual and tell us which number flasher lamp is stuck on. Then I can tell you which transistor/ pretransistor needs to be replaced.

I looked at the manual and it appears to be #21 Left ramp flasher(s) but I have issues in 3 locations-

The flasher under the Supercharger ramp
The flasher in the upper left GI
The far left flasher on the Supercharger which doesn't appear anywhere in the manual except in the 2nd pic where its listed as #18 Supercharger flasher but I'm only having an issue with the far left supercharger flasher and its not broken down individually. I posted the pics of the manual so you can see that #21 has two locations.

Thanks

get1.jpg
get2.jpg

#1572 3 years ago

I don't know why you're disregarding the warming resister idea.
2/3 transistor s failing at once is unlikely.

#1573 3 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

I don't know why you're disregarding the warming resister idea.
2/3 transistor s failing at once is unlikely.

Yeah, that's what was causing my Space Shuttle flashers to stay on.

#1574 3 years ago

Trust me guys, it a transistor. He did exactly what I did and the exact same flashers are staying on. Including the left supercharger light.

#1575 3 years ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Having trouble with the color DMD (or more properly the 14-pin ribbon connector) in my Getaway. The ribbon connector keeps coming loose from the DMD controller board just enough that the DMD goes fuzzy. As soon as I push the connector all the way back in at the board the problem is solved, but it keeps coming loose nevertheless. Anyone have ideas on how to keep this from happening? The board itself is not loose nor are the header pins for the connector.

As already mentioned, hot glue is a good solution. A lazier solution is to *slightly* bend the pins on the header (put a screwdriver between a few of them and bend the adjacent pins away from each other) so there is more friction with the cable and it stays in place.

#1576 3 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

I don't know why you're disregarding the warming resister idea.
2/3 transistor s failing at once is unlikely.

WPC systems don't have warming resistors.

Quoted from BigDan:I posted the pics of the manual so you can see that #21 has two locations.

There are mistakes in the manual all the time. Multiple flasher bulbs can be controled by one transistor. There are 4 bulbs in this circuit, 1 in the backbox and 2 on the P/F and 1 is the left S/C. You should first make sure there is power on the red/wht wire at the bulb socket. If there is power then you need to use a jumper wire from the ground braid connector in the backbox to the metal tab of Q28. Don't hold it on to long or you will burn out the bulbs. If the bulbs light with the jumper then you need to replace Q27 Q28 and D9.

#1577 3 years ago

My mistake, I thought they did not come on. If they are stuck on then just replace Q27 Q28 and D9.

#1578 3 years ago

$44 USD for the part
$44 for shipping

yikes!

-mof

I wonder if there's a US vendor with one?

#1579 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

$44 USD for the part
$44 for shipping
yikes!
-mof
I wonder if there's a US vendor with one?

But that's a very cheap price for the part though. I bought a new one for my BoP for $79 and the shipping was $14 and that was a US company. So $88 shipped is about the going rate.

#1580 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Sticky, I have had the same problem lately. When I was using L5 rom, it always dumped all 3 balls at once. When I switched to L2, the game sometimes sent one or two at a time. Lately, one is often left stuck in the lock. However, I don't have to take the glass off. Eventually the third ball is let loose. I would start with checking your ball lock switches.

I'm on L1 which I believe is supposed to do 1 at a time.

If I hit another ball in there say for the jackpot then the ball comes out but if I don't I have to take the glass off to manually push out the last ball.

#1581 3 years ago
Quoted from Eryeal:

Yours sounds like a slightly different issue - yours is the switch itself not registering closed, so you have to wait for the ball search to lower the stopper to release it. On the other guy's - it's an actual physical issue with the switch having enough force to not let the ball go past it on it's own. So your switch needs adjusted so that it always registers a close with the ball on it, and the other guy's needs to adjust the switch slightly higher so the ball has enough force to make it's way past the switch.

I think you are right here. I'll try adjusting it higher.

Sorry if this sounds stupid but how do I do that?

#1582 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

But that's a very cheap price for the part though. I bought a new one for my BoP for $79 and the shipping was $14 and that was a US company. So $88 shipped is about the going rate.

Get a scan of another one, print it out and put it behind a piece of plexi

#1583 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

$44 USD for the part
$44 for shipping

yikes!

Could be worse, you could be over here in Oz Try about $130

#1584 3 years ago
Quoted from Eryeal:

It's the switch it is laying against - the switch has just enough force to not let the ball go past it without the weight of the other balls pushing. I had this issue on both that switch, and the 3rd switch in donut heaven at well. It took a bunch of trial and error making minor bends in the switches, but eventually it settled in without problems anymore. But yeah, they are a pain to get right. Take off the metal piece on top and leave it off for a little while while you make the adjustments and play some games so you have easy access to the switches.

Just wanted to say this worked for me. After removing the metal it was easy to see how to adjust the switches. They give you a decent amount of play up or down to set them up and this is the key.

The first time I tried I adjusted the second switch too high and when I hit a ball in the game would register it but then start the looking for a missing ball until the post released it and the ball came out.

I adjusted the second switch slightly down after this and the first switch up to the max. That did the trick.

All three balls get released and I can enjoy the game again.

Great advice here, thanks.

#1585 3 years ago

I am suddenly having an issue with my getaway. While I'm playing and the green lock arrows come on the back ramp is supposed to lower to allow the lock. It's not always doing it right away and during the time it's not lowering I'm hearing a clicking sound back there and it looks like it's trying to lower but can't. Eventually it does lower but sometimes takes a bit. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and can point me in the right direction before I start tearing things apart to figure it out.

#1586 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I am suddenly having an issue with my getaway. While I'm playing and the green lock arrows come on the back ramp is supposed to lower to allow the lock. It's not always doing it right away and during the time it's not lowering I'm hearing a clicking sound back there and it looks like it's trying to lower but can't. Eventually it does lower but sometimes takes a bit. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and can point me in the right direction before I start tearing things apart to figure it out.

Mine had a similar issue (PO didn't care or notice). I had to replaced the main bracket that held the coils as it was bent (was unable to "fix" it so that it work 100% of the time) - I would check that assembly to see if anything is binding (maybe just a worn sleeve).

#1587 3 years ago

Ok thanks. I'm figuring it was mechanical but just wanted to get others opinions before I dig in.

#1588 3 years ago
Quoted from Sticky:

Just wanted to say this worked for me. After removing the metal it was easy to see how to adjust the switches. They give you a decent amount of play up or down to set them up and this is the key.
The first time I tried I adjusted the second switch too high and when I hit a ball in the game would register it but then start the looking for a missing ball until the post released it and the ball came out.
I adjusted the second switch slightly down after this and the first switch up to the max. That did the trick.
All three balls get released and I can enjoy the game again.
Great advice here, thanks.

Great to hear! You may have to tweak it in the future - at least I did with mine one or two times, but then once it was perfect, I didn't have any further issues with it.

#1589 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I'm hearing a clicking sound back there and it looks like it's trying to lower but can't.

When mine did this the solenoid bracket was cracked in three pieces. I couldn't find one at time so I welded back together. Cleaned and resleeved, everything is fine now.

#1590 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I am suddenly having an issue with my getaway. While I'm playing and the green lock arrows come on the back ramp is supposed to lower to allow the lock. It's not always doing it right away and during the time it's not lowering I'm hearing a clicking sound back there and it looks like it's trying to lower but can't. Eventually it does lower but sometimes takes a bit. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue and can point me in the right direction before I start tearing things apart to figure it out.

Try moving the ramp up and down in the test menu. That will be a lot easier to diagnose the issue than during gameplay. It does sound like something is bent/loose and hitting up against something.

#1591 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When mine did this the solenoid bracket was cracked in three pieces. I couldn't find one at time so I welded back together. Cleaned and resleeved, everything is fine now.

I took a look tonight and it looks as if the bracket on mine has also been welded. Looks ok but i may pick up a new one. I moved things around and it feels a little stiff but after that it seems to be working fine now. Im going to be pulling the playfield soon to put new cabinet decals on and i will clean up the assembly then . Thanks again guys.

#1592 3 years ago

Does anyone know the sizes of just the rubber rings used in the Getaway ? I want to change mine over to superbands (just cant keep the rubber ones clean) and i really dont want to pull them all out just to measure. I checked the manual but it doesnt seem correct.

#1593 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Does anyone know the sizes of just the rubber rings used in the Getaway ? I want to change mine over to superbands (just cant keep the rubber ones clean) and i really dont want to pull them all out just to measure. I checked the manual but it doesnt seem correct.

Check out Titanpinball.com for silicone rubber rings. I went with clear on all my games, they really pick up the lights nearby. They have a lot of kits ready to go, not sure if Getaway is there yet. My experience is the sizes don't always match up anyways. Buy a sample kit and experiment. I think you can get a discount if you help come up with a specific game set.

image.jpeg
image_1.jpeg

#1594 3 years ago

Where did u get th mountain? I am seriously interested in getting one for myself

#1595 3 years ago

If you can find someone selling the mountain mods anywhere better let the dude know he's gonna have to man the barricades and prepare for a Getaway owners avalanche

#1596 3 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Check out Titanpinball.com for silicone rubber rings. I went with clear on all my games, they really pick up the lights nearby. They have a lot of kits ready to go, not sure if Getaway is there yet. My experience is the sizes don't always match up anyways. Buy a sample kit and experiment. I think you can get a discount if you help come up with a specific game set.
image.jpeg
image_1.jpeg

Game looks good! Am I going blind? Where is your stoplight?

#1597 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Does anyone know the sizes of just the rubber rings used in the Getaway ? I want to change mine over to superbands (just cant keep the rubber ones clean) and i really dont want to pull them all out just to measure. I checked the manual but it doesnt seem correct.

Go with Titan rubbers. I recently did my Getaway in Titan's. Red bands on the slings/flippers and clear everywhere else. Not sure I like the clear, though. They are not "clear" but cloudy. Looks just like silicon that comes out of the tube. Light does shine through them and does look good in some spots, just not all. Next time I am going with colors instead.

For rubber sizes, look them up in the manual. I refer to the one online here:

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1000

#1598 3 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Game looks good! Am I going blind? Where is your stoplight?

Took it out. Just too big for my taste. I am working on a replacement, but to be honest now that it's gone I don't miss it at all.

#1599 3 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

Go with Titan rubbers. I recently did my Getaway in Titan's. Red bands on the slings/flippers and clear everywhere else. Not sure I like the clear, though. They are not "clear" but cloudy. Looks just like silicon that comes out of the tube. Light does shine through them and does look good in some spots, just not all. Next time I am going with colors instead.
For rubber sizes, look them up in the manual. I refer to the one online here:
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1000

Agreed. If I did it over I would go with some colored in places where they wouldn't light up anyways.

#1600 3 years ago

I got this one. if your real particular. you will not like it. the gauges along bottom are a touch blurry. I am going to start looking for another one. or if anybody has one let me know to. Thanks

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