(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

10 years ago


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#3745 7 years ago

Maybe these pictures will help; I'm not sure what you'll find when you open up that service box but it's not a re-import so you should be fine...

More details here, if needed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reimport-hack-service-outlet-install

Clean (resized).jpgClean (resized).jpg
parts (resized).jpgparts (resized).jpg
schematic service box (resized).jpgschematic service box (resized).jpg
service box drawing (resized).jpgservice box drawing (resized).jpg

#3747 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Looks like you had soldering to do, Monster. Only says it's wire nuts inside the box. Maybe that's the difference between the US and EU version. I'm prepared for either. Bought a 15' 14 gauge extension cord this morning for the job. Will cut it to a reasonable length, leaving like 6' outside the cabinet after it's all done.
Grieving the Indians loss. The Browns are definitely not in it this season. Good series. First time I've watched the World Series in a long time.

Wait, I'm not sure what you mean by wire nuts? Your service box and my service box should look the same inside and the schematic picture I posted are for the US version. I was converting the pin back from the EU wiring to the US wiring. Fortunately, I was lucky that I got both the manual and schematics when I bought my machine. I would think if you have wire nuts anywhere in your line or service box, someone had done some work after the fact.

EDIT: All of our pins have the ability with the stock parts to be converted to a US or an EU machine, the only differences are the slo blow fuse used, the way the molex pins and wires are connected and the type of receptacle on the end of the power line. (not sure if EU machines uses the Varistor and that may be why mine was removed.)

#3749 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

It was me who brought up the wire nuts

I missed that so I didn't fully understand what was said, sorry for the confusion.

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Converting a re-import is a totally different procedure.

No question about that, I was showing Charger how he could replace the line within the service box as it was from the factory, I didn't mean to over complicate the issue.

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

The easiest way to replace the cord is to cut the existing cord right at the entrance to the box, then install the new cord, strip back some insulation from the new cord wires and what was left of the existing wires you cut, still inside the box. Use 3 wire nuts to connect them together.

Agreed, I'm not saying you couldn't do it that way...

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

This is not a hack, and a perfectly acceptable fix, and even complies with the NEC.

You're probably right and I certainly don't know enough about the NEC but it's my understanding connections spliced together and joined with wire nuts need to be contained within a junction box using the same gauge wire of the same wire type; however, this is a pinball machine so I'm not sure any of the NEC stuff matters.

#3751 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

You are correct, and that would be the case, as the wire splices are in fact properly contained within an NEC compliant metal enclosure. And yes, the NEC is a factor, otherwise these machines could not be sold in the US, or used in a commercial environment. And no worries about the rest bro, no harm done, and I realize you're just trying to help a brotha out... Your knowledgeable input is always valued and appreciated here.

Thanks and right back at you!

#3753 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I actually use this type of crimp connector when I replace a power cord, I prefer them when dealing with stranded wire. But standard wire nuts are perfectly fine, readily available, cheaper, and don't require a crimp tool.

It just dawned on me that you meant to cut the line short and make the splice so it's contained within the service box so the new line comes out fully intact throughout the machine...

Yeah, that would work too.

#3762 7 years ago

Your pin your choice, go for it. Red and Blue caps may look good with the theme so it's worth a try; however, there isn't much blue to tie into the machine so you may want to try frosted white leds under them so it's not over saturated. This is where it becomes subjective, you may like the blue and even though I think it would be too much blue it couldn't hurt to buy 3 blue frosted leds so you can play around with the lighting effects.

It's a hassle to keep ordering stuff in small batches so I usually wait until I have a good list of needs and then tie in some stuff to play around with so when I do this sort of thing I buy extra and think about my options. For instance, you should buy 3 blue caps because you may like it so much you'll wish you had bought all blue caps (they are only $3/each at PL so it's not a big loss) plus you have the original red to fall back on if you don't like the blue.

#3764 7 years ago

So I've been playing around with the Mt. Mod (Thank You Charger!) and I didn't like the look of having the stock plastic because the graphic of the Mt seemed to be too much, and having no graphic made the Mt Mod itself seem too 2D, so I'm trying something original. I cut several pieces of Lexan to play around with and this is what I like the best, to me it makes the Mt seem more 3D and doesn't interfere with the SC... I'll probably work on some lighting effects in the next few days.

Reg Mt Mod (resized).jpgReg Mt Mod (resized).jpg

up Mt Mod (resized).jpgup Mt Mod (resized).jpg

#3778 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Busted power cord update: Finished it. Biggest challenge was fitting the 14 gauge cord through the 16 gauge cord keeper in the box. Had to trim it so the cord would fit. Cut like 4' off the 15' 14 gauge extension cord and still have plenty of slack. Will put a replacement plug on the cutoff piece for a new short extension cord. Used butt crimps, electrical tape, and wire ties. Added a wire tie inside the box to help secure the cord. And it still works, and is safer now. Thanks for the help getting me through this. Game time.

#3796 7 years ago

Alright, I've been busy and I'm far from an expert with this sort of issue so I would need to refer to my schematics but a few things first, Onlyest suggestions are great and spot on.

Just a few quick side notes for our newer pinball owners.

To remove the balls from your machine:

With the power off side out PF until it clicks, put your hand under the ball launcher and push the ball eject arm (this looks like the sling kicker arm) and push out 1 ball at a time, grabbing it before it rolls too far down the lane and remove it from the game. Do this until all 3 balls are removed. The machine will feed the balls assuming they were all stacked in the return, unless you powered off the game before the balls were stacked. My recommendation is to not power off your pin before the balls stack (it won't hurt the machine but if you forget this then you may tilt up PF by mistake and the balls could roll out).

Be careful using magnets around other metal parts and only when the pin is powered off, this could pull a switch arm out of place and cause it to be pinched or sit on top of the PF and it not register (trust me I've done it before too).

Be careful adding mods it's easy to damage something or have a wire come off without realizing what you did.

Now back on topic: Without getting to detailed about schematics, I would start with the basics,

1st: Test the fuses ( you said they check out)
2nd: Run a solenoid on the shooter, if it works...
3rd: Run a single switch test for the shooter lane
4th: Look for broken wires, failed connections
5th: If it's none of those then you'll have to stat looking at schematics, or maybe the switch got cooked but if the pin was powered off I don't see how you could have shorted something out.

Good luck, sorry I don't have time to get too involved right now.

#3798 7 years ago

Quick 5 mins to look and I'm not sure this will help you but the plunger kicker (solenoid 12) connects to your High Current Driver Board (the little board you mentioned in an earlier post) from (J2) and out via (J1) to the Power Driver Board (J127) pin 1 Brown-Black wire (this also connects to the Eject hole so test that too to see if it's working) and pin 4 Brown-Yellow wire, test to see if you have anything from PDB (J127 pins 1 & 4) if you do then check the HCDB (J2 pins 1&5)... ref manual page 3-7.

#3803 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So, while I am stuck without a plunger, I thought I would at least share my latest mods.
1. Replaced my 40 ohm woofer with 80 ohm, completely rewired speakers, added 80 ohm inverter and L-pad. For those of you who have not done this, it is great as I can now actually hear/feel the bass tones in the game. BTW, the L-pad was a must in order to manually balance the sound the way that was best for my ears.
2. Finished my homemade SC ramp sign and added green frosted LED in place of yellow. I like it much better as it catches my attention more during game play. Thought I would post a pick for others to consider.
3. Followed the guide in this forum and made my own custom LED lit flipper buttons. I used wedge sockets, various Matrix cables, and double red flex heads from Comet Pinball to do the job. Also, wired into start switch so they flash when pin is not in play mode and solid when it is. I'm trying various things (mainly black electrical tape) to help with the apron bleed through, but overall does not seem to be bad. Also, if you do this mod be aware that the spacing is very tight on the plunger side.
4. Finally, I wanted to "pop" the fluorescent orange a little more, so I installed some UV lighting upgrades. I added two Comet UV spotlight bulbs (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6leduv.htm) to the back section to light up the back ramp and left loop (I previously had white bulbs installed here), I already had a 3 LED strip under my SC sign, and replaced my white frosted 7 LED strip under the apron with a 7 LED UV strip. The main upgrade I did was to add 2 UV spots to the sling gauges. This really makes the orange in center area glow. In my first pic, I have the apron UV lit, but not the 2 spots. In the second pic, I have the spots lit and you can see the difference it makes with the oranges with the Getaway logo, 1st-5th gears, and the tachometer. I'm sure that the UV effect is not for everyone, but I thought I would share in case anyone had ever wondered about it.
5. Since I now had a extra LED strip that I didn't know what to do with, I put it in the GI just behind the lower left targets. Wow, it really lights up the plastic (see the same photo where I have the UV spots - bottom left speed limit sign). Now I am thinking about buying a few more of the Matrix frosted white LED strips to light up the other dark spots in green plastics lit by GI.

That's a lot of lights; how did you decide how to tap into your GI's?

On another note, have you done any tests on your plunger? I'm very curious on what the issue is so we can get you up and running and post some resolution for anyone else running into a similar problem. Please keep us advised, good luck Mr T.

#3806 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

FYI, The eject hole test works. The only other thing in the test not working is the lower diverter test, but I don't know what that is (I don't recall this test ever doing anything). Upper diverter works fine (gate that routes ball to either SC or hairpin).

So does the plunger work in the tests?

#3810 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No, it does not. Nor does it register any voltage on the coil leads when test is firing. With the advice provided, I need to determine if PDB is generating the power, and if it is then where the continuity break is.

So pin 1 & 4 J127 have power form the PDB, did you test the power from HCDB pins 1&5?

#3813 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Stupid question; if I put a flasher bulb in the pop bumper socket, will it flash on when hit? Thinking no without a rewire of the circuits. Thinking out loud but would like to see the pop bumpers light when hit instead of always on. Any way to do this? Curious.

No, they are different bulb types

#3829 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Sounds like your ball kicker mech might need adjustment or a rebuild. Doesn't sound like it's ejecting the ball with enough force maybe?
It's cheap and fairly easy to do.

1st thing I'd check too

#3845 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, please don't everyone hate me, but I've decided to purchase a replacement driver board given all my issues. My decision was not made in haste, but based on 3 primary factors:
1) While I could acquire the parts that I think I needed locally to repair the board, I have never done this kind of detailed work before, have no idea how to test my work, and am concerned that while I may address an obvious issue I could easily overlook other things.
2) I am more than happy to pay a reputable repair shop who takes a holistic approach to board repair. However, based upon the calls I made the shortest repair window offered was maybe 4 weeks (excluding the week or more of shipping back and forth, and even 4 weeks was no guarantee).
3) This is my only pin, and I am already having withdrawal. On top of that we will be having events at my house over the next few weeks, and I don't want an expensive giant paperweight in the game room . . . "Hey everyone, look at my cool new pinball machine. What's that? No, of course you can't play it or even turn it on because it has been broken for weeks, and I have no idea when it will be fixed."
As a result, I purchased a Rotten Dog replacement from Big Daddy who is regionally close to me, so I hope I will have the board by this weekend. On another note, I do value the original board and it is not just going in the trash. After removing it yesterday, it is apparent that multiple repairs have been done on it before, yet it still looks pretty clean and it has held up. My plan is to either send it off for repair, work on the repairs myself as I have time to learn, or sell it "as is" to someone who values it and can restore it to proper working order (FYI, if that is you, please make me an offer).

That's perfectly fine but I would suggest you call or email Clive at Coin Op Cauldron he does great work and he fixed my accelerator board that is unavailable for purchase, the thing runs like a champ.

Having said that, I have a new driver board ( mine is a PinLed but I don't think you can buy these anymore) and it's awesome ( I still have the original too ). I bought a Rottendog board 1st but it didn't work correctly so I got a refund and bought the PinLed board. That's not to say Rottendog's are a bad product because there are plenty of people who bought his boards and they work flawlessly. Of course that was 12 years ago...

Good luck!

http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/brepairs.html

#3853 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

He is the first person I called. Told me minimum 4 week turnaround on my board and he actually currently has a 9 week backlog.

Well dang, I guess times have changed... nonetheless, if you do want the board serviced after you buy the new one, he does great work.

#3876 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Waste of space??? Does this look like wasted space? With the bl carpet lit up it looks like the games are floating.

Thanks Stang, looks awesome, brings me back to the good old days but I feel like I just ate some shrooms...

#3888 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

EDIT #2. Got another email from Marco. He retracted his first statement. He thought I was referring to the deep caps. He said yes they will fit.

Yeah... I was going to say

#3890 7 years ago

Just a standard wedge bulb in the pops, I used red frosted twin smd, which work well with the reflective properties of my caps. You should buy several types so you can play around with different looks, like warm white twin smd...

#3901 7 years ago

Those are # 906 flashers, # 555 are lamp sockets and have a smaller base

Edit: This is what I used in the back box, you don't really need tower flashers in the BB

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/8smdflash.htm

#3913 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No such thing as too bright when it comes to flashers

Well if they are on the slings or right in your eyesight that may not be the case, so don't go too crazy.

#3928 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

2 even TOLD me "it's me or the Mustang, which will it be"!!!!! My Mustang will be celebrating it's 47th Birthday next May 1st.

lol!

#3940 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Ok so it looks correct but doesn't function correctly. Is that just something I have to live with (just the nature of them), or is there an adjustment? Maybe it's just the physics of it (it depends on what angle and how fast the ball when into the kickout).

What's wrong with it?

If you mean it's not making it to the outhole then that can be adjusted just like the shooter but I will tell you that it's doubtful to make it all the time. Mine is fairly dependable and it's about 60-75%...

#3947 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

but it says in the manual... .

IX yeah....

EDIT: Note the "Should"... which is not 100%

#3998 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

I'm sorry, but a lot of that stuff is just silly... But I will absolutely be buying their lighted speaker panel!

Agreed on the speaker panel and I'll pass on the rest; however, those Plasma caps would look sweet on my Elvira but I don't know if they will work with pop bumpers.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

One thing that I noticed with the new PDB is that my shooter is not as powerful as it was before. As a reminder, my troubles began when I somehow shorted something with my ball remover magnet (I've since abandoned that practice) and the shooter stopped working altogether. Before, the ball would easily make the loop when launched, but now it is visibly slower and just gets over the top of the loop to make the full turn.
So, my question is, can coils be damaged to where they underperform? Everything else works great on the new PDB, so I am assuming (I know that can be bad) that it is sending proper voltage to the coil. Could something be wrong with the little driver board this coil routes through? I am obviously not an electrician and have a limited understanding of things, but my natural thought would be that a coil would either work or not work.

A little back story for you, about 11 years ago I bought the High Current Driver Assembly c-13509-1 you're talking about, this was because I thought it needed to be replaced but when I installed the new board the ball still wouldn't make it around the loop. I tried several other repairs with the new HCDA installed, replaced the coil, rebuilt the shooter completely (spring, sleeve, Bell armature) and adjusted the angle of the shooter itself and nothing corrected the issue. It was at that point I put the old board back on and it worked like a champ, turned out there was nothing wrong with the old board but for whatever reason the new board just didn’t work out. I don't know if the new board's resistance was too high or what the cause was for it not to work correctly but I always keep my old boards, they can be repaired or used in a pinch and in this case it must have been one of the other fixes that resolved my issue.

I would start with trying to realign the shooter rod, start with something simple and work backwards... if it turns out the HCDA is bad they are pretty inexpensive to replace.

#4023 7 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

Hi everyone, I'm proud to say I'm a new member of the club as I picked up a Getaway from another member here a couple weeks ago. It's quickly become my and everyone else's favorite in my extremely small collection. I've got a question about a number that was 'imprinted' on my play field by very small indentations on the play field. I actually didn't notice it until today when I was cleaning the play field. I don't know if you can see it in the attached photo, but the number is 370460. I'm assuming this is a serial/tracking number, but was it done at the factory or by an operator?

1st. Welcome to the club!

2nd. I remember reading a thread about TZ having some numbers on the PF that were only visible under UV lights, these numbers were put on the pin from the factory so they could track where the distributor sold them or something to that effect... not sure there is any significance to your pin but that's the only thing I can think of.

Quoted from BudManPinFan:

I'm guessing it was, the majority of pins from that time would have been. The play field is in pretty good shape and you can't see this unless you're really looking for it, so it must have been done by the operator. So another question I have is do others get a lot of air balls on their machine?

I would agree, not many people owned a pin back then, sure there may have been a handful but I don't think collecting became a thing until the Arcades started to fail and cheap pins could be bought by people like us who loved pinball and could buy unwanted, beat down games to fix up and relive the good old days.

Not too many air balls but I do get them, especially since all my flippers have been rebuilt and the rubbers are new-ish (Titan silicone rubber is awesome but they bounce and spin the ball, which I love).

#4031 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, I've pretty much done most everything to my Getaway that I want, or at least have it planned (cabinet decals, flashing yellow hairpin turn LED, and some GI frosted LED strips to light up the dark plastic areas). The one exception that I really don't know how to address is the back ramp flap. I am missing the thin metal piece riveted to the base of the ramp. So, my questions are: 1) where do I get a replacement, and 2) even if I had a replacement how would I go about removing the old rivets and properly attaching the new ramp piece?

I'm not sure where you can get that flap at this time, Marco lists them but they are out of stock.

Dremel to remove rivet and rivet press or hand rivet tools to put in new rivets. I don't think a pop rivet gun would work on that part because the rivet would be too thick and may damage the PF.

#4063 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

For those of you who have restored your Getaway cabinet graphics, I need your advice. I am contemplating doing mine, but I do not want to do a complete restore. I need to be able to do it in place upstairs where the pin sits, as I am not going to transport it and I want to keep it mostly intact. With that stated, what is the best method to prep the cabinet? Do I have to peel/strip current graphics or are they silkscreened on? If the latter, must I sand them down or can I just do a light sanding? If bleed through is a problem, then can I just paint over current graphics before applying new decals? Again, my goal is nice, not perfect.

Screen printed. Prep is key, sanding and filling, I wouldn't do it assemebled but; If your goal is not perfect what's the point?

Edit: if you use decals I don't think you'll be able to use those legs protectors or you'll get wrinkles.

#4065 7 years ago

No primer but paint the corners black, and a little just in case

#4070 7 years ago
Quoted from grumpy712:

In my opinion and experience I would definitely not use drywall mud but would use bondo or wood putty. The only thing that is silk screened on your cabinet is the head. The bottom cabinet is one big decal the same as what you would be placing back on. You can put nextgen decals that have the same feeling and look.

I'm not certain but are you sure about that? I saw SuperBee did a restore and I always thought it was all silk screened, perhaps the head was the only part printed directly on the wood but I guess for purposes of restoring it doesn't matter.

Agreed, you should never use "drywall mud" as a wood filler, never ever. You need a wood filler that will dry hard, not shrink and can be sanded, some putties do not dry hard.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/joejets-getaway-restoration

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-getaway-cabinet-graphicsdecals-or-screen-printed

#4073 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

...What he said. Sorry. Talking out of my@$$.

I like the new avatar... Wilma!

#4080 7 years ago

nice work!

#4088 7 years ago

How about this...

Source:

http://www.flippers.be/pinball_cabinets.html

There were several ways to get the artwork onto a cabinet:
1.Painting cabinets using metal stencils
2.Screening directly onto the wood (most games in the 1980ies)
3.Screening onto vinyl covered wood
4.Screening decals and applying these on the cabinet (some WPC-95 games)

Further there are two ways to screen colors: spot and process.

Up to the beginning of the 1980ies, every pinball cabinet was spray painted using metal stencils. The artist made a line drawing in 2 colors (+ the background color of the cabinet), of which thin metal stencils were cut. You can recognise these as they only have a few colors, have very simple designs (thin lines are not possible) and sometimes the borders are 'fuzzy', as they can have a little overspray.

In the mid eighties, Lenc-Smith invested in a specialised machine that could screenprint onto large panels of wood. These panels were then later cut into pieces and assembled. The panels however had to be covered with a very thin white vinyl before printing.
About every Williams game made in the nineties is done like this, as WMS Industries owned Lenc-Smith. The quality of the artwork is very good, however where the legs attach to the cabinet, small wrinkles appear. Because of this some people confuse them with decals. They are no decals ! While the result is similar, the procedure is totally different. Decals are printed and then applied on the cabinet. This is a vinyl primer coat on the wood to make it smooth.

The LS vinyl cabinets do have a big problem with fading. Especially red and yellow colors can fade until they're almost completely gone, showing the white base vinyl layer.

On some machines Lenc-Smith did not use the vinyl layer but the cabinets were first covered with white paint. I suspect this technique was used on Theatre of Magic. It's confirmed cabinets for this game were made too by LS, but they 'feel' different and the yellow/gold hardly fades.

Other vendors did not have this type of machine. They had to screen individual, already assembled cabinets. The artwork is screened directly onto the smooth, primed wood and it is difficult to get damaged. It also does not fade like the vinyl printed cabinets do.
However this technique has its restrictions to how the artwork meets at the corners of the cabinet.
This type artwork application was already used in the 1980ies. The difference with using metal stencils is that screenprinting allows for more complex artwork: fine smooth lines, even simple color gradients, .. Most games at the end of System11 (Whirlwind, Earthshaker, ..) have cabinets produced like this.

In this post to rec.games.pinball, Pat Lawlor confirms there were three cabinet suppliers being used at the time when his Funhouse pinball machine was in production.

Finally screened decals were sometimes also used.
Some games, like Road Show, Star Trek the Next Generation and The Shadow have a screened cabinet and decals on the backbox. It's not that there is always a difference in supplier because there is a difference in technique used. As you can read here, Lenc-Smith also supplied these decalled backboxes.
One reason for this was to cut costs, another was to allow cabinets / backboxes to be made by multiple companies, as not everyone had the same capabilities or sometimes demand was too high for one company to fulfill all orders.

Depending on how popular a game was, and how busy the cabinet factory was, it's possible that one run of a game used different suppliers for the cabinets. So it's possible to find some machines of one model that have a screened cabinet and other machines with decals or vinyl base.

Multiple suppliers providing cabinets for one game also put limits on the artwork. The cabinet artwork for Fish Tales for example had to be reduced from 6 to 4 colors to allow production by different suppliers.

#4094 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Lots of Getaways made so the process for each machine could have certainly varied then. Good info.

Yes, I agree, that's why I posted this...

Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Mine is definitely screened over white vinyl covered wood. But also has zero fade.

I believe my pin is this way too and these don't seem to be "decals" but I do have some fading in the front and some light fading on one side.

Side good (resized).jpgSide good (resized).jpg

Side bad (resized).jpgSide bad (resized).jpg

#4101 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

So you are telling me if I just put my Getaway out in the barn for 20 years that I shouldn't have any issues removing the existing artwork . . . man that thing was nasty, very impressive work!
However, this begs a question to me: were these vinyl stickers or was their a vinyl laminate applied to the wood that the artwork was then printed on? Based upon what I am reading, it was the latter. I think this is similar to the white shelving you buy at retail hardware stores where white vinyl has already been glued to MDF boards to give them a finished look. I would think that if you still had good adhesion then you wouldn't necessarily need to completely remove it before applying new decals.
I am still contemplating what process I will take, but all of this information has been great.

It would seem with the high production run on The Getaway there could have been several types of art work for the cabinet, the most common would be the vinyl applied to the wood then screen printed.

#4111 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Man that's lookin sharp, love that chrome coin door. You gonna cut around those cab protectors to play it safe?

Those are the correct protectors for decals so it shouldn't be an issue like the plastic protectors.

#4119 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I see, cut. Cut and remove or just cut and leave in place, your choice.

I'm not sure this will help but my Elvira (as many of them did) had issues with the decals wrinkling around the legs and the previous owner removed the vinyl around the legs, this is a bit more than Stang is recommending but you get the idea... some day I'll get around to repairing this but the graphics are just too nice to remove and replace the OG decals (IMHO OG is always better).

cabinet (resized).jpgcabinet (resized).jpg

#4121 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Wow really, well he did that before Stern came out with their solution but man that's still pretty extreme. If I were you I'd put the Stern ones on and then get the black plastic ones on OVER the smaller ones. The plastic ones will not contact the decals and they'll hide the cut decals. Your welcome.

Wait, what, I'm confused? This was to show Mr T what can happen to decals if proper measures are not taken; however, EATPM is notorious for the decal wrinkling and this isn't that bad from what I've seen. Would I have done this to my pin... it's hard to say without knowing the condition but the colors are just about perfect with no fading so replacement decals are out of the question. Yes, at some point I'll fill and paint (after I get my CPR PF to make this a restoration pin) but I'm not sure what you mean about Stern's solution. What did Stern do for a Bally a pin? Or is there something else I should do?

#4125 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Or at least UV reactive on the decals. I know there are glow-in-the-dark features on playfield that charge well with UV light. My friend has one, and anything green glows even after he turns the pin off. He's added UV LEDs in strategic places, and it really adds to the experience with all the glowing green (he also has the Titan UV rings that look great).

This is a fact but that's not the case on the cabinet decals

#4127 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

He has shown me his with UV lighting in the room, and the green does react on the cab in her eyes and other spots. Maybe does not glow, but definately reacts to black light. His is original cab artwork.

Nice, well maybe I'll just have to put some black lights in the game room!

#4130 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

On newer Stern games they use the small metal or plastic cab protectors under the legs so the legs stand off the cab thus preventing wrinkles. Those protectors can be bought at Marco or Pinballlife and be put on any game, Williams, Bally, JJP etc. They are held in place with 2 small screws, then the bigger plastic ones go over those which will hide the big cut outs on the cab decals then the legs bolt on over those.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0599-00

Right, sorry, I thought you were talking about some other fix. Thanks

#4138 7 years ago

Welcome!

#4139 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

What did you do for your pin today? Me? I added Comet slow blinks to the translight behind the helicopters, to simulate to the navigation lights. Also got some new pop bumper caps and some red Chrystal 5 LED bulbs under them.

Just played today... but I have been working on some custom plastics and flasher mods too

#4144 7 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

In my limited collection I've got a Williams Getaway and Slugfest and a Stern Mustang. My friends all prefer the older Williams machines over the newer Stern and the Getaway gets the most play of any of them. There's just something about this machine that's so damn fun to play.

Yes, it's the simple rules that are easy to understand, coupled with good theme music, good call outs, excellent flow and a great light show. It's a great game to just play and have fun with, sure some hard core pin heads think it's too easy but there is nothing wrong with mindless pinball fun, especially for newer players.

#4201 7 years ago

It's your money but if it was me, I'd spend the 50 bucks for a new one and play around with the old one...

#4211 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Ditto, that's what I did. At this point I've pretty much considered the old one scrap since I would have somehow completely strip the paint off and start over to make it look good again.

Some of these parts come and go, with some of them never being seen again, so to me it make sense to get it while you can and have a spare to fool around with... I know $50 is not cheap but in the long run it's not bad considering what (some of us) spend on these machines.

#4216 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That question can only be answered buy somebody buying both and comparing them side by side. Who's up for the challange?

lol, yeah but I'll pass on that challenge.

#4228 7 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

I want to give a big shout out to Mr Tantrum. If he wanted to he could make some side coin doing these things for us.
I wanted to keep the Donut Heaven building but add a little bit more life to it. So I put patrol cars outside and the patrons on the inside. It's just about right.
Thanks man!

Very creative, well done.

#4239 7 years ago

Has anyone here upgraded their WPC Audio Board to a PinSound Board? These look interesting but I'm curious of the Getaway sound package they've created. I'm not sure if the cost is worth it but I'd love to hear how it sounds... some pins like T2 sound amazing.

https://www.pinsound.org/shop/index.php?id_product=19&controller=product&id_lang=1

#4253 7 years ago

Agreed, i use frosted bulbs and light strips under plastics; clear, faceted or no cover under PF inserts

#4297 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Finally, here's a pic with everything installed an put back together.

Mr T, perhaps it's just the photo but am I seeing your wire form ramp coming from the hair pin turn correctly? It looks like you have the top inserted into the bottom holes

#4319 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Side note: I forgot my parking pass for work and had to come back home to pick it up. Since it was just the dog and me, I decided to play for like 10 to 15 minutes before leaving for work again.

Now that's what I'm talking about, good man!

1 week later
#4366 7 years ago

In the leaf switch, see if the wood is still in between the metal leaves, sometimes the wood will fall apart after so many years. If so, you may have to replace the leaf switch.

#4377 7 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Definitely worth the $50..

Looks great!

#4388 7 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Yeah i bought one from the first run and they are AWESOME in my eyes, see the pics and post here >>>
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/22#post-260
I do want to say this though, i have seen comments about repro playfields, not just The Getaway one's. It's a very subjective topic and people have different expectations and are also very different in their judgements. Let's put it in a question format!
Q1. Are repro's as good or accurate to the originals? A1. Many original playfields came out of the factory with faults!
Q2. How tough was Diamond Coat? A2. Clear coating is probably more advanced than it was back in 91/92!
Q3. Do i really know what i'm talking about? A3. Probably not BUT i was really happy with my repro playfield (leads me back to the subjective comment)

No doubt that is beautiful, and I would love to have one, so the question for me goes:

Q1: My Getaway PF is in good shape so is it worth $900.00? A1. I'm spending $750+ on an EATPM PF, whenever they get done and that PF is worse than my Getaway but not it's not terrible so, do I want to spend $1,650 on two new playfields, and many hours swapping them out or use that money towards another pin? You see, my answer is another questions and I guess it comes down to what type of pin do I really want, a flawless fully restored one or a very good original one...

#4405 7 years ago

Huh, I guess so who would thought but I wouldn't pay close to that much for the mod... I suppose this hobby is spinning out of control with the prices and its seems like it wasn't too long ago a you could buy a good pin for 2k or less.

#4409 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I know "to each his own", but kind of looks like the Blob is invading the Getaway (I am glad that the mountain was nixed from the original design). However, I know these are a desirable commodity for some, but whoever buys this should at least have painting skills to make it match the overall theme.

I like the mod, to me, mods are all about tasteful enhancements and can easily be over done and in this case, I prefer the painted one over the antiqued one; however, as I've always said, mods are subjective. This one was only nixed from production because of the costs and probably would have been left in if they weren't trying to bring down the costs.

As for the hobby, it once was a market driven by operators selling their worn out, outdated pins after they had been paid for and they made back their ROI or they needed to move on to something that would earn better... today with all the HUO pins people try to sell them for more than they paid or expect to get all their money back including upgrades. People are free to ask whatever they want when selling a pin or parts, doesn't mean they will get it but in todays out of control market with Stern & JJ getting 10-15k for a NIB nothing would surprise me.

Blue no flash (resized).jpgBlue no flash (resized).jpg
Blue table 2 (resized).jpgBlue table 2 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4472 7 years ago

If I'm seeing this correctly you have a Color DMD so just a few quick things to look at, sorry Christmas day so I'm shot on time...

1. Take off the attract mode.
2. Make sure all connection on the Color DMD are in place and there is a green light showing on the board.

Power down Machine

3. Check the small ribbon cable that goes from your Color DMD to the WPC Dot Matrix High Voltage ( WPC DMHV) board.
4. Make sure J604 in not connected and cannot cause a short by hitting other pins or anything else inside the back box.
5. Check fuses on the WPC DMHV board.
6. Make sure all molex connectors are attached correctly and firmly on WPC DMHV baords.
7. Make sure ribbon cables 601 and 602 are connected correctly on WPC DMHV board.

Power Machine on again

8. This could be an issue with the board, DMD itself or the cables.
9. Marco should have the cables you need.
10. You could test the setup using your old Dot Matrix display and hooking the up J604

Boards starting from Top left to right and then bottom right to left...

WPC89 Fliptronic Board, Sound Board, WPC Dot Matrix High Voltage Board, WPC Power Driver Board and the WPC MPU Board

EDIT: Now that I saw you posted a video, I too doubt it's an issue with the DMD or the DMHV Board so this may take more time than I have ATM, I'll review a bit later, sorry.

Make sure that game rom is in firmly, plug the pin into a different outlet to test but I doubt "dirty electric" would cause that...

inside backbox 4 (resized).jpginside backbox 4 (resized).jpg
inside backbox 3 (resized).jpginside backbox 3 (resized).jpg

#4473 7 years ago

BTW: That's not attract mode so that should not be the issue either but thinking about this some more it still could be related the WPC Dot Matrix High Voltage Board and failing parts, having said that... do you have another Rom you could install to see if it's Rom related?

#4476 7 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Thanks so much for everyone's helpful ideas. I plugged it into a different outlet with no change.
Which ribbon set do I need? Are these enough ribbons to replace all the ones connecting all these boards?

This one...

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RC1311

#4477 7 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Man it seems like it could be anything! Ugh. No sir, I don't have another Rom.

Well, I didn't mean to scare you, this is one of those tricky issues to pin point especially when dealing with power issues. My gut tells me it's something to do with failing caps but I really don't know. I have almost all new boards in my Back Box (except for the sound and MPU) and kept the old ones just in case. Caps are known to fail and can cause DMD issues, freezing and power issues but the cables could also cause problems.

I'd be curious to see what happens to your red LED lights on the boards when the pin freezes. Maybe you should watch them or video them when it freezes.

#4483 7 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Here's a video showing the leds both before and after the game locks up. It's a long video so just scroll to around the 1:30 or 1:40 mark to see it change
» YouTube video

Dang, can you take a video of the full back box... with all the boards. I'm not sure where this will go but every little bit of info will help. At some point, if this gets to complex, posting on the tech section may be more helpful.

#4533 7 years ago

I'm glad you got it going again, I didn't notice you had one of those daughterboards installed... I have no experience with them but if you weren't having reset issues you probably didn't need it so keep it off the pin.

As mentioned, make sure the cables are on the right pins, it will scramble if it's off a row and can be difficult to see if it's on correctly. I have 3 WPC Dot Matrix Display Controller High Voltage Boards and when I switched one out it scrambled my display nothing a restart didn't fix but on some of the newer ones they have dip switches that need to be set a certain way.

#4534 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, here is my new design. This was created fully with photos that I took of my Getaway. Still will have to play with personalization.

IMO, I like the other (stock) photo better but I'm not in on this as I have the original key chain that came with the pin.

#4548 7 years ago

That leaf switch looks ok, or at least it's similar to mine. Make sure all solder connections are solid and all wires are attached correctly.

The flippers connect into the Fliptronic Board in the Back Box, look there... the 3 wires are, Orange/Green, Blue/Purple and Blue/Yellow

On the fliptroic board, connections J902 (Orange/green wire and pins plus Blue/purple wire and pin and molex connector) & J907 (blue/yellow wire, pin and molex connector).

Fliptronic 1 (resized).jpgFliptronic 1 (resized).jpg

Fliptronic 2 (resized).jpgFliptronic 2 (resized).jpg

fliptronic board (resized).jpgfliptronic board (resized).jpg

leaf switch (resized).jpgleaf switch (resized).jpg

right flipper coil (resized).jpgright flipper coil (resized).jpg

#4588 7 years ago

I have a few pics that may or may not help you because these were to show someone else how my topper was installed...

The beacon is attached from the underside, inside the back box with wing nuts.

topper (resized).jpgtopper (resized).jpg

topper 2 (resized).jpgtopper 2 (resized).jpg

#4595 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Agreed. They would work with Nascar, but not here. There is a certain member on this board that feels that pins should only be tastefully and minimally upgraded. I think white bats and and red rubbers are fine. Maybe red bats and black rubbers as an alternative?

There's more than 1 member that feels that way and personally I like minimal, tastefully done mods but modding is extremely subjective, do what makes you happy just realize when you try to sell your pin (if you ever do) it may limit the market or have a negative impact on the value. As for the flippers, black rubber has been used on the flippers, and the legs could have been either black legs or chrome legs... my pin came with black legs that I switched out to the chrome, either way it looks good.

getaway flyer (resized).jpggetaway flyer (resized).jpg

#4598 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Thanks for the reference photo. I've always wondered what a NIB Getaway would have looked like. This photo looks like the prototype, as the rpm decals are not on the inserts. I wonder if there are any new production pics out there to see as a reference to stock.

Yes, the front end decal was different too. I'm not saying they don't exist but I've never seen one with the updated machine.

#4607 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I'd also like to get 1 play for a quarter and 4 for a dollar today!

lol... back in my day it was 1 game, 5 balls for $.25 and 5 plays for a $1.00, no wonder why I got hooked...

1 week later
#4640 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Mr T, my burning question is how did you take the play field bolts out? When you lift the play field up and lock it vertically, it's resting on a bolt that you need to remove. The reason I ask for this detail is because I am still having a PITA time when I have to lift the play field up and lock it vertically. My brackets are bent and they get jammed on the play field rails.
Lots of work still ahead of you. Good luck and keep the patience going. It's gonna look nice. My cabinet is pinked out but this is a project I'm not ready to tackle anytime soon.

Pics of the issue may help

As for the colors, this side has very little fade, it's not a true red and has some pink tones (note the "red" in EATPM in the background) and they have the "3d" accents that are supposed to be like light reflecting off of a shiny surface.

Side good (resized).jpgSide good (resized).jpg

1 week later
#4728 7 years ago
Quoted from DonutHeaven:

Hey guys. I was referred to this thread as I am having trouble finding a specific playfield offset switch for my Getaway.
In order to technically keep from double-posting.... here's the link to my original post:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-playfield-offset-switch-problem#post-3544404
Thanks for any info you can provide.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12688-1

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12688

#4730 7 years ago
Quoted from DonutHeaven:

Thanks. Ordered 3 and received 3 of those but the wireform is not offset.

Yeah, sorry, I didn't really read your post correctly, I thought you needed the switch assembly... but I see your issue.

#4740 7 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Found it. PM sent

Good job!

#4746 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

posted this in the main forum, but I'm getting crickets. Thought maybe I would try here!
I recently replaced the bulbs on my Getaway: High Speed 2 with CT LED's, and also replaced the crank assembly under the right flipper. I did not replace the solenoid, just the crank assembly and plastic sleeve that sits in the solenoid.
I got the machine put back together, and made it through 2 balls before the plunger stopped working. The plunger on the Getaway is a "shifter" that you push up or down to launch the ball. The shifter has other uses in-game, too - to shift gears during regular play, or shifting during video mode. These alternative uses still work, but the ball will not launch.
In my attempt to diagnose, I noticed that the mars lamp is not rotating as it had been. It still lights up, but does not rotate.
I did the solenoid test and nothing pulses on either the plunger solenoid or the mars lamp solenoid. I don't really know what to do from here. I tried switching the F104 fuse with F105, just to see if maybe I had burned one out. No change in the solenoid test.
Does anyone have an idea what's going on? Or where I should go from here as far as testing goes? Any help is appreciated

It could be a fuse, the fuses are as follows...

F101-F105, F116 = SB3A
F106-F113 = SB 5A
F114 = FB 8A
F115 = SB .75A

You need to do a fuse test with your multimeter to see if they are working but it is important to use the correct fuses.

You can try to do a test on the shooter, sometimes you'll get a shifter error and it may cause it to stop working, running the test and moving the shifter will clear the error but I wouldn't think it would work in the other phases if that was the case.

Also, and more likely the cause, do a switch test on the shooter lane, sometimes the wire will come off, or the diode is broken off so the switch won't register when the ball is in the shooter lane and it will just sit there, after a while it will launch the ball in a ball search. Check to see if everything is intact.

Mars lamp motors are known to fail after sometime, it could be that the motor is done but I'd test the fuses 1st.

Edit: I'll have to review more details on my schematics to see what goes where for the Mars lamp.

Edit 2: Check to see that the wires are all connected on the solenoid for the shooter, messing around with the PF and the flippers could have caused something to break off...

#4752 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Nah, I switched 3 of them, I put f105 in one of those slots

I think your fuses need to be tested not just moved around.

Not just loose wires or obvious breaks but the diode broken off, even ever so slightly on the plunger switch, will cause it to fail.

Please enter your switch test and test switch # 78, when within the menu and on switch #78 run your finger over the switch arm in the shooter lane and see if it registers, if it does then we know the switch is good.

So assuming the switch is good then the next test you could try is to see if you can plung the ball, in your case the shooter "rod" will not do this but if you change within the settings to flipper plung and it works then we could potential assume the coil is working...

#4763 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Shooter Lane switch is working. Any other ideas why it would come and go?

So when you entered the Single Switch test - T3 - #78 and then ran your finger over the switch it registered the switch (with sound)? If you did not run this specific test please do and let us know if it worked.

Also, if it worked for a few launches then I doubt it's a fuse, they don't work that way, either they are good or they are bad, no in between.

Quoted from red-line:

Once I had looked over the whole machine, I closed it up and started a new game. The plunger worked - for 2 balls. Then it stopped working again. That seems to indicate a faulty connection, right? Either way, I'm going to redo the plunger solenoid solder.

I suppose loose wires, bad connections on the coil or elsewhere may cause it to fail from time to time...

A more detailed picture of the entire coil and switch would be helpful.

Quoted from red-line:

When I do the solenoid test, the lamp does light. The lamp also twitches, like its trying to move. I also engaged video mode - the lamp lights but won't spin.

As for your Mars Lamp, if the beacon motor twitches, that seems to indicate, if I correctly understand what you're saying, that the motor is frozen or just burnt out. These can be purchased here and it's a fairly easy thing to replace.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7971

It could potentially be that little Triac driver board is bad and they can also be purchase here

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-13088-2

Obviously that's a good chunk of change to spend if it's not needed so if it were me, before I spent any money I would do several tests:

Make sure the fuse on the Triac board is good.

Make sure all connections are solid.

Make sure the lamp cover is connected properly to the beacon motor.

I would take off the beacon motor to see if I could manually spin the rod and hear the gears spin.

I'm not sure how you can really test if the motor is working

Quoted from red-line:

No, I don't have a voltmeter. Just got this (my first) pin about 3 months ago, these are the first issues I've had.

You should get yourself a Multimeter, it will be very useful when owning a machine, they can test for many functions that you may need to know in the future... voltage, current, and resistance

motor (resized).jpgmotor (resized).jpg

#4766 7 years ago

Tell me what's going on with the coil connection on the right side? Is that a bolt or screw that the wire is soldered onto?

#4767 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

I'm also starting to think this is just something I can't fix on my own. Unfortunately my pinball "guy" is out of state, and I have no idea when he'll be back. Oh well.

BTW, it's far too early in the process to think that so we will keep looking...

If I'm seeing your photos correctly, it looks like the tabs came off the coil (probably when the PF gets lowered back in place they can get bent and make contact with the cabinet potentially causing a short too, that's why I put electrical tape on mine, just in case) and they soldered a bolt to the wires and then the coil wire; however, if that's not the case those solder connection may need some work. If it is the case I would replace that coil.

#4769 7 years ago

Some other things to look at, now that I'm thinking about it.. the shooter coil is connected into the high current driver assembly (C- 13509-1) (follow the purple/orange and orange wires over to the left and it's that little board on the bottom of the PF. If you had a multimeter we could test it but make sure all the connections and wires are intact. This then goes into the back box in the fliptronic board (A-15472), just for fun check those fuses and connections

fliptronic board (resized).jpgfliptronic board (resized).jpg

#4770 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

It's just a lot of solder, no bolt. The connections don't look great. I ordered a soldering iron today, so I'll redo those connections on Friday.

Ah, ok. I would think about replacing that coil too, it may get there at the same time as your soldering iron. Those wires from the coil could have been damaged or come loose and the potential cause of your problems. They are cheap enough and you could get the coil sleeve and spring while you're at it and once we get your issue cleared up you'll probably never have to mess with that ever again.

If you decide to go that route and need help with the parts list...

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3171
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2915

or

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=a-14789
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-128
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7067-6

#4773 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Checked the wires and fuses as you suggested, tilt - no luck there. I did manage to break a fuse in the process, though! The fuse I buy doesn't have to be specific for pinball, right? So long as it is the type the game says it needs to be (3A 250V SB)

That's right, it should be ok as long as it's a SB and same Amp

EDIT: Buy some extra fuses, an assortment of the ones listed is a good idea and if you get the parts I mentioned, it's probably a good time to buy yourself a fuse puller too, even something as simple as this

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=425

#4774 7 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I have heard that sometimes the shaft can get slightly bent over time so it ends up with a tight spot on the mesh of the gears. It's a normal 12V motor so it will have a positive tab and a negative tab. Remove the motor from the assembly and hook up to a 12 Volt battery, won't matter if you have the pos/neg wires on the wrong tabs, it won't burn out, just spin in the opposite direction. At least this test will tell you for sure if the motor has died. If the motor works it will be either a binding issue with the gears or a power issue.

Good idea, worth a try

#4777 7 years ago

It's highly unlikely that the Mars lamp and the shooter issues are related so at this point you may need to get or borrow a multimeter and run some tests. With limited resources we don't know everything that's going on with the boards so you may just want to swap out the coil and see if that gets you up and running.

EDIT: There are plenty of us here who can walk you through the process, it's really straight forward and if your semi-handy, you should have no problem doing it yourself.

#4778 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Awesome! Thanks! Yeah, I broke the other fuse prying it out with a screwdriver, simultaneously saying to my wife "I wonder how you're *supposed* to do this?"

Yeah, some of those fuses can be very old and they can get "crusty" making them difficult to remove. The tricky part is some fuses may look like they are ok but they are bad so that's why you need to test them.

#4783 7 years ago

Red-Line, where do you live?

#4793 7 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

One of the magnets on my supercharger isnt working. Replaced the tip 102 on the supercharger board and that didnt do the trick. Any ideas? Also, where does this plug in?

What magnet?

Where does that wire on the molex come from? From the photo it looks like just a single cut wire with a molex connector on the other end...

#4798 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

So I could just run the electric wire straight into the solenoid wire w/ a wire nut, just bypassing the lead? (until I get my new solenoid)

That's what I was trying to say before thinking that may have been what went wrong, the coil wire that connects to the tab where you solder the wire onto had come loose... you could do what you ask for a temp fix soldering the wire directly to the coil wire; however, I would replace that coil, they are only about $12-14, do it once and do it right. At the same time replace the coil sleeve, the plastic part that goes on the inside of the coil (these wear out too) and the spring would be optional. I listed those parts up in an earlier post.

I asked where you lived because the motor I showed in my earlier photo is my old beacon motor, it worked but it was spotty but if yours is spinning then it may be the way the lamp cover is connected and may just need to be tightened up... if that doesn't work I could send you my old motor (I only keep it as a back up but they are still available to buy).

topper (resized).jpgtopper (resized).jpg

#4800 7 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Magnet 3, all optos work. Magnets 1 and 2 work. Not sure where that connector goes need to dig further

Ah, ok well so much for that thought... but sometimes the magnets just die. I'll open up my back box and look around a bit to see if I spot anything

EDIT: Check pins J134 on the driver board? What colors are the wire? Is that wire cut and just laying there?

#4802 7 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Nahhh couldn't be that one, that uses the smaller pins and more of them. The only one i could find that looks the same is J106 on the driver board and the wire should be red/white....looks orange in the pic, but cameras do weird shit with colours though depending on the light.

The pics look like 2 different connectors, the one from a distance looks like a smaller molex connector. I wouldn't think there are many places for a single wire-connector to go but now at least I have a better idea of what you're looking for

#4804 7 years ago

Try J-106

j106 (resized).jpgj106 (resized).jpg

#4805 7 years ago

N/M

#4812 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Do I need to solder them or can I just twist the wires together and put a nut on it?

If it were me I'd solder it on, that's simple to do and when you need to remove it after you get your new coil, simply reheat the solder and remove the old coil. I'm not sure you'll have enough wire from the coil to wire nut them together, plus there can be movement and force on that coil when active but I suppose for test purposes you could do it hat way.

#4816 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

I had to unwind the wire from the coil in order to have enough to put them together.

Well that's why I didn't think you would have enough coil wire but doing it that way there is plenty. Yes, typically wire placement and location is important but with the coil unwound I'm not sure what lead goes where but brown right tab and purple-orange left tab.

Could be a bad coil and that's the cheap fix so I'd get a coil and sleeve and replace it, order now and get it mid week. If you have access to a multimeter you could test you fliptronic board and high current board, plus you could test the fuses on your fliptonic board

#4819 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Oh shit, no. I had no idea. Thanks!
And tilt, yeah I'm ordering a new coil and sleeve today.

Yes.

And great!

We will get you fixed up...

In the meantime while you wait for your coil, you could remove the beacon (wing nuts on the inside of the back box) and see if the lamp cover is connected firmly and not slipping on the post from you motor.

#4821 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

IT'S ALIIIIVE! stripped the metal wire down to copper, and the solenoid is firing again. You guys are the best. Ordering a solenoid today, might even replace the left crank assembly if I'm feeling saucy.

Nice! Good job! One down one to go...

Get the coil, the sleeve and the spring... but while you're at it, and before you complete the order; how is your shooter rod and tip?

If it's worn down you may consider replacing it and then you'll probably be set for as long as you own the pin.

looks like PP is the only place that may have it in stock

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-15709

#4823 7 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Think that was it! J106 was empty. Thanks

Great!

#4829 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

You can get just the plastic extension from Marco for $1.80.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8941

Excellent! There you go and much cheaper.

#4832 7 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

I took HS2 in on a trade a few weeks ago. Was planning on selling it... but after cleaning it up, fixing a few things and LEDing it... this thing has found a spot in my permanent collection! Such a kickass game. Its definitely a ONE MORE GAME kind of pin. Here's a before and after.

Nice job and an official, Welcome!

#4841 7 years ago
Quoted from simplykind:

Thanks. I usually don't mess around with modding too much(that donut shop really called for it), but DAMN that mountain mod looks sweet. Can those be picked up anywhere anymore?

BTW, nice collection... I've been keeping an eye out for a TS that needs some TLC, these machines have gotten out of hand since I 1st got into this hobby.

#4843 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Rumor is that this was an original design element of the pin, but production costs caused it to be omitted (hence the plastic with the picture of the mountain). I believe someone had the blessing of the licensing firm to make these aftermarket, but was a limited run. Nearly impossible to find now unless you just happen to come across the pin, or once in a blue moon someone is selling theirs for whatever reason.
Also, I chuckled at your post as I'm one of those who really can't stand the tunnel mod. Funny because I've seen pretty much a "love it, hate it" attitude towards the tunnel with very few in the middle.

That sort of sums it up, so you can mark me down as a fan of the Mt Mod but also as one who likes minimal mods, more of an enhanced og look (as much as I like the blue flashers in my the super charger I find myself struggling with this change, I guess it's a good thing I have 2 flasher plates to mess around with, lol!)...

PF Full 2 (resized).jpgPF Full 2 (resized).jpg

PF full blue 2 (resized).jpgPF full blue 2 (resized).jpg

#4848 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Can anyone tell me if the top flipper crank assembly is the same as the bottom right? Can I buy #A-8232-R for the top?
Added today: Edit: wrong parts number, meant A-13524-8

Well... that kit is for a left and right flipper set without a top flipper, so in other words, the leaf spring for the Getaway's right flipper is different than a standard flipper switch that only activates 1 flipper vs the leaf spring that controls 2 flippers at a time, but aside from that the other parts are the same; except for the coils. The top flipper and the 2 bottom flipper use different coils, the top isn't as strong as the bottom coil.

Bottom coils left and right
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FL-11629

Upper coil
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FL-11630

Right leaf switch
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-15060

or this probably would work

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/SW-1010A-13

#4849 7 years ago
Quoted from weaverj:

yeah, it would cost a couple bucks, max, to make. creating the mold would be the hardest part. guess you'd have to have one to make copies. people would be lined up. are there copyright issues?

You need the mold to make a proper copy, the story goes they got a prototype from Steve Ritchie and the licensing rights from Williams to make this when it was done about 3 years ago on the limited run, I'm not sure why they stopped making it, perhaps it just wasn't worth the costs as they said they were going to make another run but never did or perhaps they lost the licensing rights... ?

#4853 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

They were all hand painted and took just too much work for it to be viable i would think. Maybe produce and sell it blank and let the individual paint as they please ?

Yes, that's true, good point...

Quoted from weaverj:

anybody that just wants one for their own, hell, paper mache something together. i think that would be kind of fun.

Sure, if you want to make one for yourself you could do anything you want but to copy the "prototype" and try to sell it would be another story, but who wants a hunk of play-doh on their pin?

#4870 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Getting ready to replace my plunger. Popped open the new solenoid and it wasn't exactly what I was expecting. Are these wires already stripped and soldered to the metal (so I just need to solder my purp/brown wires straight to the metal), or were they just soldered there for transportation? Meaning I need to de-solder, strip the metal wires (w/ sandpaper), and solder both wires together on the metal?
Thanks!

Just tin your wires from the machine (brown wire and purple-orange wire) and solder them onto the metal tabs.

EDIT: Yes, this ready to go don't mess with the coil wires

#4872 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Thought so, just thought it would be better to ask that do it wrong. Thanks again, tilt.

NP, you got this and everything will be awesome!

The shooter rod alignment, once you get everything back in place, could be a little tricky. Sometimes everything lines up perfectly with the shooter tip in the center of the switch but in my case I had to offset it so the ball would make it all the way around the loop when launched (this is what needs to happen when you launch the ball).

Cliffy shooter (resized).jpgCliffy shooter (resized).jpg

#4873 7 years ago

BTW is that a new coil sleeve too? Make sure you install that with the flange end on the back of the coil...

http://www.marcospecialties.com//images/products/03-7067-6/detail.jpg

rebuilt shooter (resized).jpgrebuilt shooter (resized).jpg

#4881 7 years ago
Quoted from red-line:

Not sure what the front or back is on this coil, but I installed it the same way the old one came out. The coil sleeve you're seeing is the one it shipped with, not the one I'm using tho.

Good, because that sleeve wouldn't work correctly

#4902 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I almost hate bringing up this topic because I've seen countless forums addressing supercharger issues, but thought I would give it a shot. Just noticing in some videos of others recently how fast their superchargers are. Since I bought my pin, I've always pretty much had loops in the 110-130 range. All optos have been replaced and tested successfully, each magnet has been tested individually and works, although seem weak. If testing a single magnet, ball will usually make a loop or two before it will not make it all the way around again and drain (the 3 seem similar in power with maybe one a little weaker than the other two). This also occurs with brand new balls (ie not a magnetized issue). The good news is my SC is fully functional, but I know it could be better.
So, my question is how do I make my SC faster? After all, part of the pin's name is "High Speed". Do mags go bad, and if so how do test? Is this an accelerator board issue, and if so what do I look for? FYI, this was an issue before and after replacement of my CPU and power driver boards.

Quoted from simplykind:

I would first go in and test the values of everything on your supercharger board. Lots of the same parts, so just check them to see if there are any inconsistencies, and if so, replace. I just did this and every component that was the same matched up besides a TIP which was where the failure in mine was occuring

Always a good idea before rushing in and doing something that was not necessary so regardless of what you did in the past retest everything.

Those numbers are high, still within the specs so it's up to you if you want to tackle this issue or not.

Yes, magnets go bad as can the accelerator board under the PF. I had mine rebuilt by Clive @ Coin Op many years ago and it's been flawless and working in the high 70's into the low 90's. I have a new magnet on hand but never needed to swap it out.

In test mode for me, any one of the magnets working independently can make the ball continue around the loop on it's own.

I'd have to think on this for a solution to your problems.

#4905 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, redid all my testing this morning. I guess at this point I'm trying to understand from electronics perspective and not just machine tests. Do I need to test current to each of the mags? What can I measure and look for on the accel board that might contribute to low mag performance. I really don't want to just start throwing money at it for trial and error.
Also, from what I remember in recent past, single mag would just barely keep the ball alive for several loops, but now just 2 or 3 (middle mag maybe 1 or 2). I assume that single mag for you makes it fairly easily? FYI, I just re-leveled since I moved pin placement in my game room and I am dead on L-R and 6.5 degrees slope F-B (used iPhone pinball level app calibrated on flat surface first).

Sure, I guess you could test J6, pins 5,6 and 7 on the accelerator board, I think those power the 3 magnets then maybe test what you get at the magnets. I'm no expert, especially when it comes to the magnets but that's where I would look... I don't recall what my issue was with my board when I sent it Clive, it was about 8 years ago, but as I recall it was a similar issue as you're having and that's why I ended up with a "spare magnet thinking I may need to swap one out.

The single magnet for me makes it limp around the loop, yes it makes it but it has no speed, just enough to barley keep it going. That test freaks me out thinking I'm going to cook the magnet by stressing it out.

#4907 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Thanks, I will check it out. Regarding your freaking out, I'm no electromagnetic scientist but it's a frictionless device and I would think all of the stress is on the ball. I guess maybe if the test is an "always on" situation instead of being triggered by opto closing then maybe?

I'm sure you're right but IDK, it makes me think the 25 year old magnet is working too hard

#4916 7 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

Need a little help, when I bought my Getaway it came with the key starter mod installed. It also came with the original start button and the light relay switch, which I want to reinstall. Problem is I'm not sure which wires go where on the switch. Any help/pics will be much appreciated!

I just replaced my switch, button and LED bulb... I hope this helps

Start button (resized).jpgStart button (resized).jpg

#4928 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

And another very subtle "mod"... Can anyone spot it??

Looks to me like you swapped out the star post on the loop lane for a regular red post sleeve.

#4930 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Nope, that's still a dual ring star post.

Upper PF (resized).jpgUpper PF (resized).jpg

#4932 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Am I supposed to see something there ^^

Yes, the star post on the double post on the inside loop lane

star post (resized).jpgstar post (resized).jpg

Playfiled detail (resized).jpgPlayfiled detail (resized).jpg

#4974 7 years ago

Edit: for the vibe

#4975 7 years ago

Edit: for the vibe

#4980 7 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Well, so much for the cool vibe we had going in here today.... Tilt, if it will make you feel better to bash on all the custom stuff I just did on my machine, go for it! I promise I wont get all butt-hurt over it... You have earned my respect over time, so I wont take it personally.

I appreciate that Only, the respect is mutual.

That wasn't my point, everyone here is entitled to their opinion and comment freely about their likes and dislikes but I was upset that the photo used to describe the stupidity of the topper was one of my machine. Perhaps I over reacted, and I apologize.

#4983 7 years ago

Thank you Mt T, it's all good, I understand and there are no hard feelings. You've been a great asset here and hopefully that will continue for many years to come.

#5049 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

There is a menu setting to limit the number of extra balls you can get. Yours may be set to 2. I maxed mine to 10 cause I suck at pinball.

Yes, A=Adjustments, A1 :3 = max extra balls 1-10 and A1: 4 =max extra balls/play 1-10 or off (no max)

#5094 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Ok. I think this is my problem then. Question to the group; how do I adjust and not make it worse? I have some people in my pinball league I can ask also.

I'm not sure what you're asking but to adjust the flipper position you need to loosen the nut to free the flipper post from the clamp, once you've done that you can adjust it's height and position. The gap on the upper flipper is to act as the "ball guide", too far out and it will go SDTM or left flipper, too far in and it will cause the ball to hit the post sleeve below the flipper bat. There has been good info here on how to gap the flipper correctly but realize you'll need to hold it in place when you retighten the nut.

Disclaimer: You should not mess with the flipper height if your bushing is ok, sometimes in routed games these bushing wear out and the flipper will drag on the PF and that's why you'll see wear in the flipper areas...

upper flipper (resized).jpgupper flipper (resized).jpg

upper flipper 2 (resized).jpgupper flipper 2 (resized).jpg

#5097 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Am I understanding this correctly? See marked up image. That will "swing" the bat further into the playfield, lining it up parallel to the playfield yellow line.

Yes, loosening that nut will free the flipper post so it can be moved, it will not move the post for you. Once it is loose and able to be moved you can then position it to where you want it to line up. Keep the flipper bat secured in that position and tighten the nut up, you can accomplish this....

On the PF side, you can use something in between the flipper and the metal ball guide (as one post showed a tooth pick) but a shim may work best; as you apply pressure on the nut it may cause the post to move out of place so holding it with your free hand will help you keep it secure as you tighten the nut (the "shim" will keep the flipper gapped correctly).

#5099 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Gotcha, Tilt. Maybe then I'll be able to make those upper loops better.

Yeah, it's a tough shot to make if the ball isn't going to the correct flipper or going SDTM. Good luck!

#5105 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Would someone please let me know what size target pads I need to buy (a link to PL or Marcos would be even better). I am missing pretty much all of them on both the 3 stoplight sets and the 2 lower white sets. Someone here in the forum pointed this out to me awhile back, but was just reminded of it.

Do you mean these?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/23-6534-9

#5191 7 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

I'm sure you're right. I guess it was just wishful thinking on my part that it might not be so bad. I don't really have time right now to work on this so perhaps the best solution is to just take the board out and send it to someone who works on these. Any suggestions?

Clive @ coin op cauldron would be my 1st contact...

#5199 7 years ago

Good stuff but for those you have to desolder and remove the ram chip, then solder on a new socket so you can install the NVRAM.

Another option could be this...

https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

Or a remote holder...

#5203 7 years ago

All these options are viable, I suppose it's a good, better, best situation so it depends on how handy you are and how willing you are to mess with your boards (or how much you're willing to pay someone to do the work). Replacing batteries is ok too, especially in a home environment, it's when pins were used on location that most of this type of damage occurred, just remember to do it...

#5205 7 years ago
Quoted from steve1515:

"Frank's Famous..."
This looks nice, but is this a new product? I've never heard of it. Who is Frank?
Is a 3V lithium cell enough to replace the 4.5V available in 3 AA batteries?

He's from TNT Amusements, a retail place in PA, they do those crazy pinball videos on YouTube

http://www.tntamusements.com/

#5209 7 years ago

For the record, I'm not advocating any of these, I'm just saying there are plenty of options and everyone can decide what works best for their comfort level and price points. I have not done any of these on my Getaway except switch the batteries on a regular basis but I'll eventually get around to doing one of these fixes; however, I am thinking I may try Frank's Famous just so I can test it out and see how it works.

#5231 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I just added an 8 smd light strip to the inside of the hairpin turn ramp. Looks amazing in real life and really reflects well off the supercharger.

I took a different approach to lighting the hair pin and super charger, I made a few custom plastics, one for the hair pin and one for the super charger. I've attached these to different flashers so they go off sort of in sequence with the chrome blower lights. HP plastic has 1 blue & 1 natural white star post light and the SC has a blue led light strip. When I have time I may post some picture of how I ran the wires and what the plastics look like... if you click the pics fast and you may see what I mean

PF Full Blue a (resized).jpgPF Full Blue a (resized).jpg

PF Full Blue c (resized).jpgPF Full Blue c (resized).jpg

PF Full Blue b (resized).jpgPF Full Blue b (resized).jpg

PF Full Blue d (resized).jpgPF Full Blue d (resized).jpg

PF Full Blue e (resized).jpgPF Full Blue e (resized).jpg

#5240 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Can some direct me to a location where I can learn how to repair or replace my shooter assembly and outlane kickback assembly? I feel that they are both weak, and will place the ball where it should 50% of the time. Maybe I only need a few parts or maybe I should just replace the whole thing. I feel it is just not performing as it should. Thanks. If there is some written website that walks me through the process, then I'll go there and figure it out.

Just to be sure I understand what you're saying... when you launch the ball it does not always go around the upper loop? And when the ball goes in the kickback it does not always go in the upper PF outhole?

#5246 7 years ago

Ok, for the shooter there are several possible things that can impact the way the ball goes around the loop or doesn't go around the loop. Many times it's simply the angle the ball comes from the shooter and the ball is hitting your star post, this is why some people switched out the star post to a regular sleeve post or even removed it altogether (it also make the upper flipper shot easier to make the loop, do not mess with that post!) If it were me I would start with the easiest 1st so in this order...
1. Pin is not level: Level your machine
2. Coil solder joints have failed or not making good contact: Resolder the wires on tabs.
3. Molex connectors are not making good contact with the pins on the High Current Driver Board: Check your connectors on your HCDB this is under the PF, the little board on the front left hand side.
3. The shooter rod is worn out or loose: Look over your shooter rod, in particular the plastic tip, to see if it needs to be replaced.
4. Make sure rod hits the ball in correct way. In other words, it's not always aligned in the center of the switch, I had to adjust mine to be offset to the right: Play with the angle of the shooter Rod (see the pic).
5. Coil sleeve is worn out: Make sure you buy the correct sleeve #03-7067-6
6. Coil is bad: Replace coil A-14789
If you're replacing the coil sleeve or shooter rod or the coil I would suggest replacing all of them at the same time, including the spring but that's just my opinion.
The kicker is a pain in butt, same steps apply (except the HCDB) to that as the shooter rod but sometimes it's just going to make it the outhole.
Cliffy shooter (resized).jpgCliffy shooter (resized).jpg

Added over 7 years ago: EDIT: What I meant to say was...

The kicker is a pain in butt, same steps apply (except the HCDB) to that as the shooter rod but sometimes it's just not going to make it to the outhole.

#5248 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Regarding my plunger issue not making the loop; shot a slow mo video and took some pics. The pic with the upper loop area. The ball will hit the post above that red target. The video looks like the ball hits the left, then right lane before exiting onto the play field. Thoughts? Thanks. See pics and video in link.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxDW4urGhZNhNDdyZHhQS3dGOWc

My guess is that your plunger is too far offset try adjusting it more to the center, if it's hitting the star post I doubt its a coil or power issue, could be the shooter tip, yours looks a little worn down maybe the coil sleeve.

This is what the shooter is supposed to look like

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709

#5251 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I'm slightly off balance but not much. A look at the coil. Not a great solder job. I could reflow that solder. Plunger moves free enough. Looks like I'd need to take the cover off to bump it over to the left a bit.

The good news is your pin level is great the bad news is I'm not sure what'sgoing on with your coil. It's mounted in reverse and I'm not sure what's happening with your tabs and wires. I'd replace the coil, coil sleeve and probably the spring. There is a notch on your coil bracket where the coil should have a tab to secure the coil so it won't move when active.

#5252 7 years ago

My Internet is down but I can post a pic of what it should look like when it comes back online. There may be pic way back in the forum but this is a fairly straight forward fix that I know you can resolve.

#5254 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

So if it's mounted in reverse how would it even work? Wouldn't it fire the wrong direction. Yea since it worked when I bought it and I didn't see any jumpers I figured it was good. Had I noticed the hack I would have offered less than $2600.

The coil will still fire and work but there is a tab on the coil housing to fit in the coil mount to keep it in place. No worries, its all easily corrected but if it were my pin I'd replace the coil, coil sleeve and the shooter rod. Once done in a home pin you'll probably never have to mess with it ever again

#5257 7 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

The coil isn't wired in reverse. The coil lug on the right has detached at some point so somebody soldered the wire directly to the coil itself. It's not neat but it will work.
Have you checked that the coil mounting bracket is screwed in tightly? Sometimes it can loosen and this will rob the plunger of strength. Also check that the plunger is hitting the ball square on. When you're checking the mounting screws, realign the coil so it fires straight upwards.
You can see in your video that the ball hits the sides of the shooter lane on the way out; this is a mechanical issue more than anything.

Mounted in reverse not wired in reverse, and I agree, the shooter rod is off set too much making the ball hit the post but it may be tough to keep in place unless he replaces that coil. If you do replace the coil I would replace everything, it's easier to do it all at the same time and do it right, and I bet you'll never have to mess with that ever again if you do but that's just my opinion.

Quoted from Charger500:

Ok. Sounds like about a $50 job. Need to get a list together.

Not even...

coil A-14789 @ $14.99
coil sleeve 03-7067-6 @ $.95

total $15.94

Optional:

Spring 10-128 @ $.80
Bell armature A-15709 @ $13.99
Rubber grommet 23-6420 out of stock

$30.73 plus shipping from Marco

OR

coil A-14789 @ $11.75
coil sleeve 03-7067-6 @ $.55

total $12.30

Optional:

Spring 10-128 @ ??
Bell armature A-15709 @ $12.95
Rubber grommet 23-6420 @ $.40

$ 25.65 plus shipping from Pinball Life

EDIT: Whichever way you decide to go let me know I may have a spring or a grommet I could send you so you don't have to make 2 orders

#5265 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Don't know about all the other parts, but I just bought an A-14789 Coil with included Sleeve from PBL for $11.75

I dont think the included sleeve is the same, I'm pretty sure it does not have the flange, it's usually a standard sleeve for a flipper

#5267 7 years ago

Coil sleeve should be

coil sleeve 03-7067-6 not 03-7067-3

Coil sleeve - 2-5/8 inch flange

#03-7067-6

Coil sleeve - 2-5/8 inch overall length with 3/16 inch flange

Reference:
•03-7067-6

Weight: 0.08 oz

#5269 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Found it. Thanks.

NP

Not sure that grommet will work, it could just be a color difference than #23-6420 but for $.40 its worth a shot. If it's wrong I may have a spare but it's not that critical because they hardly wear out, it's just nice to start fresh.

#5271 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

It said it was the replacement for the out of stock one. Looks to be just a different color. $9 shipping is tough to swallow. Why can't this stuff be on Amazon Prime?

Cool. You can try pinball life, I think they had everything but the spring... I could check to see if I have one of those too

#5286 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

OMG and CLEAN that thing up for heavens sake. When I get a used game the FIRST thing I do is take the apron off and clean all that up.

Let me translate, just in case anyone is wondering...

#5297 7 years ago

The manual is a must and your parts list looks good. These are good project to get your hands dirty that will teach you a lot about your pin. Good luck!

#5302 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay guys (girls too, if there are any in here), since we are on a repair/cleaning run I wanted to ask something that I've been experiencing. The issue applies to my left flipper only. After a couple of weeks of play the left flipper begins progressively sticking worse. In other words when engaged (up) it will either slowly retreat or not retreat at all. At first I thought this might just be a one time thing, but it has now happened repeatedly the more I play. After tearing the left flipper assembly apart multiple times, everything appears to be in proper alignment and proper working order. These same symptoms still occur after a full rebuild (same coil & sleeve & bracket, but everything else replaced pretty much).
The resolution each time is to remove the bracket that supports the back of the coil, clean with inside of the coil sleeve and the shaft that goes through the sleeve, then reassemble. Once this is done, the flipper works perfectly for a few weeks and/or several plays. When looking closely, it's almost like there is some grease build up or something on the shaft/inside the sleeve. I clean both thoroughly with simply green and/or orange cleaner, then remove residue with damp cloth. Just wondering how/why this seems to repeatedly occur but just on the left flipper (neither the lower or upper right have ever had this problem). I don't see any greasy/dirty areas anywhere around the flipper area underneath so it kind of baffles me how this residue seems to reoccur. Also, should I be using any type of lubricant or just keep it dry like I have been?
Any thoughts and/or ideas? Not really that big of a deal, and if such is routine maintenance then so be it. Just seems odd to me that it's only the left flipper.

My guess is it's probably the bushing on the flipper post and/or the spring on the flipper mech under the PF. Doing a flipper rebuild you should always replace the spring and the bushing, and obviously the coil sleeve.

There does tend to be some black grim, a grease like substance, that can build up and get tacky from these parts...

#5303 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I am learning, Mr. Myagi. Recall I have been through a few issues already with optos, and supercharger ramp, but ready to tackle another.

Fair point, you've passed pin 101 with flying colors so this is pin 102, and before you know it you'll be teaching the class.

#5309 7 years ago

I don't think a power issue would impact a flipper return, it's not like the coil fires the flipper back to a set position. I think it's mechanical so I still say it's the sleeve, spring or bushing. I replaced my bushings in my EATPM and one wore out after a short period of time, the flipper would stick or slowly return to set position, I swapped it out and it worked fine. On the other hand, I had the same issue on my HSII and the spring was stretched out, it didn't stick but it wasn't snapping back... I suppose it could be the plunger and crank assembly too.

I don't know if coils swell, never had that issue before but there is a casing inside the coil and then the sleeve, I think it would be serious swelling to squeeze both the coil and sleeve, unless there is no sleeve... a picture may help?

#5313 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Yes, coil Steve is stuck in coil. Just cleaned again and nownflipper works flawlessly. The is no binding and never has been. Simply cleaning this little bit is the difference between smooth as silk and sticky flipper. Can't really see this on shaft or take photo of inside of sleeve, but this is the full extent of the grime that was removed.

That's not bad or unusual but if cleaning that helps then swapping out the sleeve is a good starting point.

#5320 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Under much urging, I cleaned under the apron, shifted the shooter as far left as I could, and put it back together. So far, no misfires. I may have not even needed these new parts, but they are coming my and I'll have them to put in when I want to get into again.

Good news. I think swapping out that coil was a good idea and since you're doing that the other new parts will now last you a lifetime.

#5326 7 years ago
Quoted from Grinder901:

Gentleman,
It pains me to say but I sold my Getaway today to a great collector in Birmingham. It's giving my mom, brother, and I a chance to drive, talk and laugh and I'm happy about that.
I sold it for $4350 delivered and still lost money on it. Doesn't matter. I took a nice game and took it to the next level and I'm proud of how it looks. You guys have been extremely helpful in helping me fix, tweak and mod and I'm grateful.
Maybe I'll join the club again someday.
If you're speeding through Memphis/Shelby County, hit me up.

Congrats on the sale and the family bonding, after all, its one of the most important things in life. Sorry to see you go and I hope you'll be back, I've been back and forth with my HSII but just couldn't pull the trigger. Best of luck to you and the door is always open here in this forum.

#5328 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Doesnt mean you cant still hang with us in here...

#5335 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Do we have nay members who have PinSound cards in their Getaway? I'm planning on buying one and doing a lot of mixing ahead of time. I have everything I need except a Getaway psrec file, so was wondering if someone could provide for me. Kind of a catch 22 as I could create my own after I buy/install PinSound, but I'm waiting for TPF and wanted to do some work ahead of time.

I asked about this months ago, right around Christmas when they were on sale for $299.00, not a peep except how $$$ they were. At the time I had seen it on a T2, it was pretty sweet but they didn't have any HSII files for the board. Shortly after I saw a post about the board and someone helped Grinder with the files... idk, I could look for the thread.

#5340 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've read every single post and thread that I could find on Pinside and PinSound forums, in additional to watching every PinSound YouTube video I find along with any reviews that various sites link to. If you have a reference to one that I've overlooked, I'm happy to read through it as well. I'm so excited that I've already been doing custom mixes with the software using both ZZ Top original music as well as some covers that are really cool sounding. Also, working on real Lambo sound effects (starting, engine rev, etc.) instead of generic car sounds (current sounds don't come close to sounding like the V12 of the Diablo). While I plan on keeping most of the original game sound effects by customizing as I can, I will struggle with redoing the callouts since I don't have the voice to do them in myself (I believe that Steve Ritchie may have done some of these himself) so not sure what I'm going to do there. I've already been playing with computer emulated voices, and while they sound natural enough I haven't been able to achieve the inflection and emphasis I want. I do know a video game voice actor, but not sure I can afford to pay him for something like this (plus, I would still need an actress for the lady parts).
Anyway, I don't even own one of these yet, but I'm fully consumed by the thought of it. My main issue is that I don't yet have a psrec file (a recording sequence from a live game) since that takes a PinSound card to make one. Additionally, all of my requests for one have fallen on mute ears. I'm not saying that I won't buy a PinSound with out having one first, but it does slow down development. I'm waiting on TPF towards the end of the month to buy one (I am frugal at heart, so waiting for show discount), so this kind of lets everyone know what timeline I am on.

I don't know what you've read or seen but this is where Grinder got his files, this was an easy search so I would think you've seen it already but if not...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-new-sounds

This sound editing is not my thing so I'll bow out at this point. I just know it was something I looked into months ago and never pulled the trigger because they do not have any support at this time for custom HSII sounds, aside from the original effects and no one at the time here could clue me in so I passed. Maybe in time I'll look at it again and maybe there will be files available from them so I could be back because the board is awesome and the potential is limitless. Who knows, if I wait long enough they may have another Black Friday deal for $299. Good luck and enjoy!

#5341 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

hahahaha and just wait till you see the light up speaker panel Dan will be selling. I'm gettin one of those for sure. You know you'd have to make another shooter plate light up for it.

Now that light up panel looks amazing, something that will add just enough bling without being over kill, IMO.

#5344 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

His speaker panel on Space Shuttle?

No, the sample he showed for the HSII, looking great!

#5346 7 years ago
Quoted from beatmaster:

no he's talking about the getaway speaker panel, the one with the leds behind all the gages. great idea.

Yes

https://i1.pinside.com/b/c0/bc0f770fa4eb6f894110e51a853796726bce3e05/resized/740/bc0f770fa4eb6f894110e51a853796726bce3e05.jpg

I'd get it w/o the LED speakers but that's just me.... either way it's awesome

#5364 7 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

For 50 bucks I'll keep my mouth shut.

Dang, $50 x all the members here on this forum, I think Mr T would be better off coming clean on this one...

#5371 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

OK. Showing my newbie, again. In planning for this coil swap on the kickback and plunger, is there a + and - side to these? I'm thinking yes. I will switch wire for wire, but recall on the plunger side, the coil was reversed and flipped it looked like, in order to hack it together and keep running. How can I be sure I'm wiring it correctly?

The coil was mounted in reverse, the plastic back has a notch that will fit in the coil bracket, the wires were fine. Brown right side, purple/orange left side for the shooter.

#5373 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Thanks. I know I can do this. Simple soldering. I used to solder years ago on a regular basis. I have all the tools; iron, solder, solder wick, tip cleaner, mini vise. I'm ready that way. Just making sure on the connections.

Yes, you can do it, putting everything back together is pretty straight forward so just tin your wires and solder them on once you get it assembled and in place, then enjoy!

#5376 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Also installed the correct sleeve on the ball launcher thanks to an earlier post that showed me the error in my ways

Good job, I'm glad to have helped

#5383 7 years ago

Well, this is a tricky one, there have been other threads about this same issue, yes it could be the opto, yes it could be diverter but it's more likely the spring and yes it could be the balls need to be replaced where they are magnetized and catch the gate. There are fixes for the spring besides replacing it but I have not needed to mess with mine (but did run into a similar issue which was resolved). I'd start with replacing the balls, then check the opto but its a simple light beam that is broken when the ball pass so if they work then I don't see how it could impact the diverter, unless they are askew? If it is the spring, it's a pretty big job tearing the pin apart just to get to the diverter.

#5390 7 years ago

Mine seems random with 3 being the most common but I've gotten 6 and 10 as well

#5391 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Well, I'll have to do some looking around and testing. I don't have any errors come up during the startup test. So I guess it does lead to the diverter. The diverter works when I last tested it. But I do recall last time I messed with it that it was not freely moving like a flipper does. Flippers freely move when I physically move them but the diverter seemed to have like a resistance at first and then frees up when I physically move it. So maybe it is binding somehow?

These function differently than a flipper, you should have resistance on the gate. Diverter forces the gate open keeping it open then it closes gate with the spring to snap it back into position when triggered by the opto.

EDIT: Run your tests on the opto and diverter but replace with new balls. If you do need to replace the worn out spring then I would agree to replace the wearable parts because you don't want to do that tear down again.

#5394 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Plunger and kickback swap has begun.

Remember that the plunger coil is mounted in reverse so when you install the new coil the plastic back will be against the coil bracket with the notch securing it place, so this means the wires will be a mirror image of the way they are now (should be purple/orange left tab and brown right tab).

#5399 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I believe you need to insert the coil sleeve from the back (side with the white plastic) which will leave the flange sticking out the back to fit through the metal bracket. Could be wrong, but this is the way mine was before and how I replaced it.
Just looked at kickback assembly on 2-27 of the manual, and it appears I am correct.

Flange always on the shooter side (back) or it will get launched out of place and who knows where it will end up

#5401 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Success. I put the flanges on the back side. Had to coax the old mushroomed plunger to get the bracket off. Seems to have a little more energy than the old ones. Both accurate also. Overall worth the effort.

Just like new and you should now be set for a very, very long time. Good work!

#5406 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

With the flange on the ball side or toward the game, it still would have been trapped by the bracket, so no chance for it to go anywhere. I put it to the shooter side anyhow. My fear was that the armature would slap the bracket when shooting, hitting metal to metal. But it also looks to have maybe an 1/8" to 1/4" more travel this way, to the shooter side, so that's where I left them both.

Good point but it is about the travel so either way you got it right.

#5409 7 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

In my effort to keep this thread alive;
Topic: Cliffy protector for tunnel.
Pros and Cons.
How much of a PITA would it be to install?
Would it keep the ball from overshooting the "hole" ? Meaning right now the ball goes in the tunnel, hits the hole, continues momentum and rolls up the lane a little farther, and then rolls back in.
Thoughts?

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I put a cliffy on my tunnel eject hole mainly to protect it from any further damage. Not sure if it reduced the amount of times that the ball bounced out though. You do need to take a few things apart to install it although nothing to difficult. About an hrs work.

I repaired my damaged outhole and put a cliffy over top to help protect it plus I installed one on the shooter lane. It is time consuming to tear those areas apart but it's well worth the effort and I do not see any difference in game play.

Cliffy Outhole (resized).jpgCliffy Outhole (resized).jpg
Outhole 1 (resized).jpgOuthole 1 (resized).jpg
Cliffy shooter (resized).jpgCliffy shooter (resized).jpg

#5417 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Should you be seeing a doctor about this? Seriously though, I like the looks of your outhole now (should I be seeing a doctor about this?)

lol... I'm going to leave this alone, this thread could end up in the gutter pretty quickly.

#5418 7 years ago
Quoted from Manimal:

I don't think that is too far off. Mine has a similar gap and the ball is pretty solid on it's trajectory. If the diverter were off much one way or the other, the ball would be bouncing off the ramp sides.
Did you re-build the diverter? I am betting a new coil sleeve is going to do you wonders.

Quoted from Charger500:

No I have not. I'll look into it. Guess I would need to rip the supercharger out just to get to it.

you could loosen that set screw and try to move the gate in a bit, then tighten it up to see if it helps (that's what I did to mine, the ball was hitting the gate when it was open effecting the loops. A pic of the open may help

#5433 7 years ago

Honestly, if it were me, I would 1st switch out to new pinballs and then reduce the gap on your gate, that 1/8" could make all the difference in the gate closing on the ball and while that gap doesn't seem abnormal it looks bigger than my machine's. Sure, you may need a new spring and sleeve (and at that point might as well start fresh) but I'd start there first. The truth of the matter is even adjusting the gate and messing with the set screw is a PITA but much easier than a full tear down.

I'll look at your parts list but I'm dealing with some stuff ATM.

#5437 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, I guess you will be watching until they play again? Sorry you team is ousted, but now you can focus on pinball again! Throw a video up when you can, as I would like to compare it to how mine plays given I don't have any issues you have outlined.

If can only post pictures then one open and one closed is a good start but the would video be best because it could potentially show when the ball hits the gate. I believe that everything is functioning properly, opto, diverter... but it's either the spring is not strong enough to snap the gate closed fast enough and the ball is making contact with the edge of the gate; or the gap is too great and it's position when closing is messing up the timing because it has to travel further than normal to get out of the ball's way. A sluggish mech could also be an issue where its just closing too slowly because there is gunk built up on the coil sleeve and crank arm assembly

#5443 7 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Does anyone know what the part number is to the switch for the outhole? I've been through the manual and the switch is not listed anywhere.

this is the one I used from Marco....

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12133-11

#5446 7 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Sorry, its the switch for the burn rubber outhole. It doesn't appear in the list of switches on p 2-40 nor does it appear in the detail for the kicker outhole on page 2-22.

Sorry, but maybe I'm a little confused, here is the pic of my old outhole switch with the info from the one I used to replace it with. The switch you linked has a loop arm (more like a ball lock switch), the outhole has a bent arm. I had to modify the end on the old arm so it would extend into the outhole, with out that bend going through the outhole the ball would never make contact with the switch so the ball would just sit there; of course this is more in regards to the switch arm than the actual switch.

20170318_172424_resized (resized).jpg20170318_172424_resized (resized).jpg

#5449 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Oh I see. By the wiring color (white/violet & green/violet), I believe this would be switch 77 "Eject Hole" according to the Switch Matrix. This would be part #A-9381-R (Item 77 on 2-40, but there is no 77 icon identifying in on the playfield schematic).
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-9381-R
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9381-R
The switch alone is a modified 5647-12133-12 (has curved end and actuator can be mounted forward or rear), but TM used 5647-12133-11, so if it worked for him then it should be good (just have to use existing parts for rest of assembly).

Yes, you can't use a loop arm in that because of the kicker so it has to be the bent arm, Williams PN 5647-12133-11, the switch itself is 5647-12133 the #11 is the arm type

Cliffy Close up (resized).jpgCliffy Close up (resized).jpg

#5452 7 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Thanks guys I was going to Frankenstein a switch but this switch was tough to identify.Thanks again

Ha ha, you can see that's what I did until I could swap it out. Good luck!

#5458 7 years ago
Quoted from SuperPinball:

Outhole washed and clean and I soldered up a new socket for it. I didn't have a red bendy on hand but I put a 2smd premium diffused bulb for now. As an added bonus I took apart the switch since I was there anyway, cleaned it and adjusted the arm, now it works perfectly. Gotta love pinball Karma.

Excellent! I didn't use a bendy on that light either, in fact I used that same bulb, and it works just as well. I'm also glad your switch issue is resolved, good job.

#5474 7 years ago

I would check the fuses, sometimes a single pop bumper will be down and it makes the other functioning ones seem weaker. As for them acting on their own, check for foreign objects or solder drips on the wires or near the coils, that's where I'd start... do a solenoid test after you look for anything out of place and look over the fuses, do not test them until you're sure they are clear.

#5521 7 years ago
Quoted from KevinCPR:

ANNOUNCEMENT
Williams HIGH SPEED II - The Getaway
TRANSLITE-TO-BACKGLASS
Run is finished and shipping now. The classic translite converted into a real mirrored & silkscreened tempered glass, intended for complete replacement of the translite (if faded or shoddy) and/or a "pimp up" of the machine.
Stu's mirror bits are shown in our detailed photo gallery:
http://www.classicplayfields.com/photo196.html
Available now in the Backglass section of the CPR Store:
http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-backglass.html
KEVIN
Classic Playfield Reproductions
http://www.classicplayfields.com

Very nice! Sign me up!

#5532 7 years ago
Quoted from pinwillie:

Hey guys !!!
Got my Getaway a few weeks ago and been lurking the thread
Glad I'm in the club , its always on the first page.
My current issue,
I am wondering if it's the ROM?
my game has no insert light show in attract mode.
I'm running L-2
I do have the three attract options with the left flipper.
One tap-all lights
with flashers
Another tap -no lights
Third tap of button -all lights on , no flashers ,no insert light show flowing up down left &right
I thought this was normal till I l looked on YouTube
What's your thoughts?

Welcome!

#5542 7 years ago
Quoted from grumpy712:

Wouldn't it be dedicated to just one game? What about Hardware tech support warranty the ability to move it from game to game. Don't get me wrong I'm all for something cheaper if it really is cheaper at the end. Some times I try to be cheap on doing something and at the end it cost me more plus my time and aggravation. This sounds like one of those scenarios

I love my ColorDMD and it has the dot option too plus it can be moved to any game they support with just a download and a flash drive but they are very expensive.

#5551 7 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Hey guys just joined the club today. Picked up a wreck on the cheap. Wires were cut by the previous owner to remove the head to get it down steps... There is also Plenty broken under the playfield.
I am trying to figure out what part/parts I am missing to lift the ramp. I have the entire mechanism below the playfield B-12576 on page 2-29 of the manual. But I have no clue what connects from A-12577 (lift crank assembly) to the actual ramp. I assume there is some sort of shaft that attaches in some manner.
Can anyone point me to the part numbers needed or the page is the manual I am missing and perhaps a photo of these things assembled? It would be greatly appreciated.
I am trying to get a shopping list together to resurrect this one.
Thanks!

Welcome! Looks like you got the answer you needed on the part and I wish you well on your project!

#5553 7 years ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

I tried to find the guy that posted this first and thank him for the idea to do mine, but I can't find it.
I lit up my gauges.

Mustangpaul did the 1st one, I used his method but with a twist using star post lights opposed to light strips (just happen to have them on hand and they fit the gauges perfectly), maybe this will help but yours looks fine as is...

Tach light mod light (resized).jpgTach light mod light (resized).jpg
PF Full Blue a (resized).jpgPF Full Blue a (resized).jpg

#5557 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

For the life of me i just cant understand why people do this !!! Just remove the bloody connectors for petes sake !!!

Yeah, I could not agree more, that's insane...

Quoted from Bos98:

Hey guys just joined the club today. Picked up a wreck on the cheap. Wires were cut by the previous owner to remove the head to get it down steps... There is also Plenty broken under the playfield.

Good luck with that project, I'm sure it will be worth all the efforts.

#5559 7 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Thats weird.. wasnt my quote

Yeah, that was odd... fixed

#5572 7 years ago
Quoted from pinwillie:

tiltmonster where do we get u-turn decal?
mr_tantrum Are you making these or we make ourselves ? I thought I read you sharing these files that you created. Thank you BTW
mustangpaul and tiltmonster Thank you for this idea

You can buy them from mezelmods and I cannot speak for Mr T but be did have them at one point.

#5583 7 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

5 hours of reconnecting wires but it was worth it.
Only remaining issues:
Up/Down ramp missing lift pin - ordered
Flippers all need to be rebuilt and have correct coils installed.
I will check and replace every other coil/sleeve.
Driver board needs to be repinned.
Sound is not working. It looks like both caps are swollen. I have parts back in Ohio.
DMD has a bad bottom row and the last 2 right columns are out. No big deal I have a good spare and this will become my tester.

Excellent work! Those issues will be easy for you to clear up so it sounds like you got a great deal for some hard work and a few bucks in parts. On a side note, I miss the good old days of pinball price points but with the home user market there is no ROI from the operator so everything is so darn expensive. Great find! +1 for you

#5591 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well Getaway club, I guessed I opened myself up to this, and even if an honest mistake with the pure motive of enhancing our machines for home/hobby use, I've been asked to remove all Williams related content from my download site http://www.thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball. This covers many items including the manual, cabinet art, play cards, etc. I will leave a few items on the site that I don't believe "infringe" upon their IP, so you will still have access to these.
So, if you go to the site looking for something and it is not there, you now will know why.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Bummer, it was just a matter of time really I suppose.

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Rick really needs to chill if you ask me!

#5593 7 years ago

BTW, why the manual? This is open to Download now for free, I have an original printed one but still...

#5597 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I was not specifically told the manual, but made the decision based upon general communication.

I got it, I don't blame you.... lay low my friend

#5611 7 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Guys, I appreciate the support, but I ask everyone here to not dwell on the negative. Sure, I have some commentary on the subject, but what good is going to come out of that? I'm over it, so let's move on having fun and enjoying our hobby.
I'm sure there are plenty of other threads on Pinside on this topic where opinions are openly expressed, so by all means contribute to them as you see fit.

Well said, +1

#5613 7 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

I wonder if PP has any plans on doing a Getaway remake?

I would doubt that, he did MMr, now onto AFMr my guess would be MBr, bigger money in those titles...

#5622 7 years ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

Just installed my mirror blades I got at TPF

Looks great!

Quoted from MustangPaul:I don't have room for mirrors either.

Same or I would have installed the smoked mirror blades

#5635 7 years ago

Is this what you need?

pull pf (resized).jpgpull pf (resized).jpg

pull pf upward (resized).jpgpull pf upward (resized).jpg

hinge upward (resized).jpghinge upward (resized).jpg

#5649 6 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

From a $700 decapitated wreck on a garage floor, reimported from Germany in unknown condition to fully functional in 1 week.
Beyond needing every wire soldered back together I had to rebuild the driver board with new Bridge at BR3 and caps as well as GI headers. New GI molex connectors. New HV caps on DMD driver. New caps on sound board (since replaced with PinSound). New rubbers everywhere. 2 broken plastics on the way from the land down under. Rebuilt all 3 flippers with new coils.
Still running L1 rom. I will patch L2 for the LED ghosting fix and then burn that at some point today.
Playfield needs some love in a few spots where prior idiots drove screws through. Needs some Cliffys.
I was working through LED change out for GI, Inserts and Flashers and ran out of 555 bulbs for all of the inserts. More on the way from Comet.
The playfield slide lock mechanisms look like they are intact and seemingly springy but they just won't engage. I am over it though and playing the crap out of it in the garage.

Excellent work! Enjoy

#5671 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Mother nature intended a pinball game to be 5 balls. The only reason a 3 ball option exists, is to shorten the average game time so operators can cycle more players/money through the machine. Nobody needs to be ashamed of their game being set to 5 balls, all 9 of my games are, as will any other game I own in the future.

100%, they all used to be 5 balls per game when I was kicking around the arcades then several years later they were all set to 3, turn those players more quickly and feed the machine more often, totally operator driven.

#5674 6 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I completely remember a 5 ball game, back in the day. And when they changed to 3 I felt like I was being ripped off. Never thought about making Getaway a 5 ball game again. Thought maybe it would kinda be like cheating. The league I'm in is 3 balls all the time, so didn't think much of it. Besides just adding 2 and changing the setting to 5, are there other settings that you would adjust? Would multiball now need 5 balls locked before starting? Would multiball still be 3 or would it be a 5 ball multiball?

No, the rules are the same... you can adjust other game settings too but balls per game is totally independent.

#5682 6 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

So in talking about going from a 3 ball to a 5 ball game. I think I will do it. Want to replace the 3 in there with a new 5. Googling sums up that Pinball Life Ultra Gloss are the best ones, but they are out of stock. They tell me they rejected their last shipment and have no ETA for new stock. Anywhere else have good ones like PBL used to have?

You can only install 3 balls in the machine

#5693 6 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

I think the best thing that happened to the game was to get the brand new right number coils, sleeves, switches, springs and stop.
The game is so fast!
Pinsound Mix was provided by pinside jamescardona. I bought the ZZ Top greatest hits to have access to the music though.
The little 6'1/2" Dayton speaker from parts express sounds great with the pinsound board. Nearly as good as my flipper fidelity setups on other machines and a fraction of the cost.

Wow, those things were toast...

#5706 6 years ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Retracted, wtf was I thinking posting in this thread... This is my last, I promise, peace out.

Wow...

#5718 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

That's a loaded question depending upon if you ask me or if you ask my wife

It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission...

#5725 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Somehow I get the sense that there are a variety of other things costing $$$ that she would prefer over a pinball machine. Even so, she is very supportive and as long as I don't go overboard it's all good. Still trying to work on my MAME cabinet, but progress is very slow right now for that.

Here's my Mame I built about 4 years ago (next to the defunct Ultracade Pro with working coin mechs, 265 games and the 27' monitor, I swapped out the trackball and buttons). The Mame was an old NeoGeo cabinet that was trashed so I restored it, decased a Sony 22"Trinitron and put that in as the monitor, built a computer and added a front panel usb port and track pad to the front end... these are fun. I may get a light gun next...

Mame 1 (resized).jpgMame 1 (resized).jpg

Mame (resized).jpgMame (resized).jpg

#5732 6 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Nice work tilt !!!

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Very nice! I have much of my design done, but just need to make time to focus on it. Too many other priorities going on.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Beautiful, you've got the touch.

Thanks guys!

This is probably not the place for this thread but if you ever want to see more I'm happy to post pics or help anyone out with a project like this, certainly much more freedom to do whatever you want on something like this vs a pin. It's well worth the work and to have a full arcade in one machine is so cool and a great space saver.. (I have 2 with the Ultracade but I can not expand that game library )

#5738 6 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Does anyone know what post I need that holds the super charger ramp down at the 3 stand up targets in front of the pops? Mine is broken and the super charger has nothing to hold down to.
Perhaps it is this? http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4424-1
Thanks.

I think its one of these... 02-4423 or 02-4423-1... if we are talking about this post near the stand up targets by the first pop bumper.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4423

02-4423-1 is hard to find

Quoted from Mancave:

On my machine (not sure if it's standard though), it's more like one of these http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-5222
and the leg from the supercharger holds down with a screw and washer.

I think that post goes in front of the double ring post that holds the brace

PF Upper 2 (resized).jpgPF Upper 2 (resized).jpg

#5755 6 years ago

There are 2 posts there, I linked them before but the one for the support is a double ring post, the one in front protects that post

#5760 6 years ago
Quoted from Metzu:

On My friend's HS2 the ball on the supercharger sometimes goes at a slower speed its that serious?,any ideas what it would be?

I'm not really sure what you mean but if you did a speed test you'll see that the loop times will fluctuate so that's normal but he should test his opto to see if everything is functioning properly.

#5762 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Remove the SC cover, put system in switch test, then slide a business card or something similar in front of each of the 3 SC opotos by the magnets to see if they close and open properly. It wouldn't hurt to clean all 6 (3 pairs), but I've had to replace all 3 pairs of mine recently.
Even then you will find that different SCs perform faster than others. I've seen some on video and in this forum that are incredibly fast while mine is average. Could be that my magnets have degraded over the years, could be the driver board, who knows. However, they work so I have not messed with them beyond my opto repairs.

I'm still unclear what the issue is, and that is one way to test them, but you may want to run your simple tests first in the Test menu, T:12 and T:13, this would indicate your loop speeds (anything lower than 145 is considered ok but I would say 110 and below is ok but that's just my opinion) and it will also show if your optos are working. The board that controls the SC is the PCB accelerator assembly board mounted beneath the PF. I think it would help us to know exactly what the issue is your friend is having so can try to give him the proper fixes.

#5768 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

While unscientific, just take a look above the very first post in this thread to see what the 193 respondents prefer - L2 is dominant at 55%, followed by L5 at 31%, and all others 7% or less each. Personally, I'm on L2 and enjoy it, and have very few issues at all (not sure that when I thought I may have had an issue that I can even contribute it to the ROM version).

I'm using L2 as welll and the only issue I have had is the very rare never ending free ride glitch.

#5769 6 years ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

Has anyone ever hit the EB in video mode?

Ever, yes, but not very often... I will say with the Colordmd, it is slightly easir but far from easy.

#5772 6 years ago

Yes, in 5th gear, always 5th gear. I'm not saying I've gotten it often but I have gotten it... I've owned this pin for 13+ years so maybe a few times at best, lol

#5796 6 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I had the spare time to go and have a good look at my machine. My SC leg is attached to the front post, the 2 posts behind are the double ring posts you mention. The back one of these by the looks of it has had the thread cut off and grinded flat on top, the front one still has some thread left on it (although not enough to mount too). As you can see by the pics the SC leg is bent back towards the double ring posts if anything NOT forward to meet the front sleeve post. I know that the rest of the SC mounts correctly to all the mounting posts so it looks like my machine has been stuffed with by the previous owner
I'm gonna need to order one of those 02-4036-1 post's also by the looks of it. Does your SC leg have a distinctive bend backwards?? cause mine is going to need to bend back a little more to meet the new post.

And this is exactly why the fix implemented by the previous owner does not work correctly, it was probably an operator fixing something on the fly, but it skews your SC, brace and the metal cover (the new plastic cover in your case). Those parts are not in the correct location, the cover sticks out in the PF (unless you want to drill another hole in that piece), and it's not covering the post and protecting the pop bumper cap in the rear.

Quoted from Mancave:

You could use the 02-4423 post, very close in size and same threads (i think), that one is still available.
Anyone let me know if this wont work as i'm going to order some soon

I agree, I would try that one I linked at Marco, or where ever you buy your parts, it may just work and help get everything back in place. If it were me I'd probably swap out that front post (02-4036-1) too, it looks like it was hacked up a bit.

#5822 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Well, that's a multi-part question.
1) I had both faulty CPU and Power Driver board which I replaced with Rotten Dog. I don't really count this as these were not mods, but necessary repairs.
2) Parts & supplies: misc repairs, hardware, new rubbers, new flippers, cleaning stuff, paint, etc. I would guess about $400-$500
3) Purchased Mods: Vinyl wrap, LED's, Key Starter. $300-$400
4) DIY Mods: very little as most of these are my own design, self print, and self made.
5) My latest expenses: PinSound & PIN2DMD, about $550
Plus all of the above was supplemented by a few hundred bucks that I made making and selling my mods to many at very affordable price points. Have I spent more on the machine that it is worth, sure. However, this is my very first pin and I've used it as a learning experience. I have performed all my own repairs and mods with the help of this forum over the last year, and have loved every minute of it.
If I was starting over with a solid machine, I would say you are probably looking at $2,500 or so to get into a nice Getaway, $300 for LED conversion with adds, then it's up to you on anything you want to spend above that along with any DIY mods. I know others in this forum have much less in theirs, and I also know others have much more.

I'd say I have about a $1,000 in mine with all the LEDs, Boards, Cliffy, Rubbers, Caps, Coin Door, Color DMD and assorted extras. I bought my pin 14 years ago now and only paid $1,200 plus $300 delivery. The boards I bought were much cheaper by today's standards and are no longer available; However, I did order the Backglass so that adds another $280 and I have my eye on the light up pannel. If I ever sold my pin I wouldn't take anything less than $3,500 with all of these extras or I'd break it down and sell off the extras separately but I think my kids have dibs on them so I don't see that ever happening.

#5859 6 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

In my defense it's been a long day and i'm an old fart with a failing memory and a few extra bourbons, that's a triple memory whammy right there

Nice! +1

#5868 6 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Found my HS2 picture, even shows the label telling you that the EOS is normally open. I'll try to get pics of the flipper switches.

So shiny! Looking good

I rebuilt all my flippers top to bottom but those coil wrappers really look good. I just recently cleaned and washed my originals wraps and put them over top the new coils but it doesn't look as nice as yours, great work.

#5872 6 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Thank you sir, I had to modify the coil wrapper files that are available online to use the correct font. They came out pretty nice.

I'd say, those are sweet, great work!

#5914 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Just wait till you see the new lit up speaker panel.

Yeah, can't wait to my hands on that...

#5922 6 years ago

Yes, except I'll get mine without the LED speaker lights, it's just too much for me...

#5923 6 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Hi guys,
Random question about gameplay. When the ball is drops into the left inlane and the left flipper is raised, is the ball supposed to drop onto the right flipper consistently? Some games seem to do this, while on others, the ball doesn't have enough momentum and goes SDTM. Playfield is angled at 6.5 degrees.

If I understand you correctly, mine will roll to the right flipper, depending on the speed of the ball but I may need a little nudge to get it over to the right flipper and it will require a quick right flipper shot to either get in the SC or for a loop shot.

#5924 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You gettin the Deluxe one? I am.

No, I'm not into the speaker lights but if you are, it certainly is a nice looking setup

#5926 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I see. You get your choice of 4 different speaker plastics too. I'm getting the Lambo.

Very nice, I think that makes sense, especially if you're going for the red

#5934 6 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Here is what I mean. The ball is coming from the left wireform and bring dropped into the inlane.
» YouTube video

Yes, mine does that if there is enough speed, sometimes I'll need to nudge it to make it to the right flipper and other times I'll be able to catch it on the left flipper... but it still all depends on the speed; does that help?

EDIT: Is that dropping from the wire form ramp? If so that may change my answer...

#5936 6 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Yes, this is dropping from the ramp.

That's a lot of speed dropping from the ramp, is that your machine? Does it have the blue rubber bumper pad installed?

Another thing to note is it looks like these are a thin flipper rubber, my bet is super-bands, which do have more bounce, and the way it hits the bat makes it hop

#5948 6 years ago
Quoted from arolden:

Yes, this is my machine. Bumper pad is installed and the ball hits it on the way down. I do have Super-Bands installed but even on my other games with Super-Bsnds, the ball doesn't bounce quite as far over. Thought it might be a Getaway thing.

Maybe try switching to regular bands or titan bands and see what happens.

Also, I'd like to see how your ramp connects into the hairpin turn. I've seen it where people have the rails spread open across the turn making the ball speed faster into the ramp opposed to one on the inside and one outside, if that makes sense...

#5952 6 years ago

Try the wire form this way, left rail on the inside and the right rail on the outside, having them spread open is probably making the ball travel too fast down the ramp and with the super-bands it's too much bounce

20161011_230622 (resized).jpg20161011_230622 (resized).jpg

#5976 6 years ago
Quoted from grumpy712:

OMG for a minute there I thought I was at a car dealership with sharks. Just joking around

lmao!

#5977 6 years ago
Quoted from Jeewiz13:

I was told to post this here:
I had a problem with my upper flipper not working consistently. So I replaced a tip102 and a 1n4403 for the upper flipper and when I put it back in, it made a wierd sound from ​the speakers and my dmd looked corrupt. Also the upper right flipper locked on.
I doubled check my solder work and it was spot on. When I disconnect the ribbon cable, the displays work correctly and the flippers work correctly. I doubled checked my ribbon cable and connectors, all good connections.
I had a replacement sound board (untested) and switched the Rom over. The sound doesn't work but the display is fine and game works fine as well. So...
What could have made my sound board crap out?
Where can I download a Rom to test to see if mine is now corrupt?
Planetary and ipdb don't have sound ROMs.
Otherwise, flipper seems fixed. Just no sound now.

Honestly, I'm not really sure but there have been cases of these ribbon cables causing issues with people's boards, I'd really have to dive into this more but the cables can go bad causing all sorts of problems.

#5978 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Any suggestions on restoring the front decals and damage caused by the lock bar? Thanks.

Sanding and painting but maybe you can find someone to split the decal set with... or try to cut a print out the gauges on vinyl and cut it out with an exacto knife, there are circle templates you could use for a nice finish. I know it's not perfect but it may spruce it up enough to look good

#6005 6 years ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Yes, except I'll get mine without the LED speaker lights, it's just too much for me...

I've been playing around with photoshop after I got the CPR Back Glass, which I really like, and it seems like the red LED speakers look better than the stock speak covers so maybe I'll change my mind and give that one a try...

#6009 6 years ago
Quoted from Micky:

Hopefully you don't do any serious damage before you find the source.

Yeah, that would be the concern.

It only happens during multi ball?

Not sure how that would be different unless it's mars lamp motor or board?

#6012 6 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

You guys have got me thinking about upgrades. I'm wanting to put together a wish list. I'm thinking that new mirrored translite, the lighted dmd box, the color dmd. None of these will make me play any better. Maybe I just try and mod the dmd/speaker box myself and try and backlight it with some led strips or something. Y'all got me spending more money on this thing than it's worth, but I don't have plans to sell anytime soon.

Some of these mods (colorDMD, Back Glass and light up panel) can be taken off and sold separately if the buyer doesn't want them or isn't willing to pay your asking price because of these upgrades but if you don't plan on selling your pin then it shouldn't matter.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to pinball.

Yup

#6016 6 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Thanks, so gone are the $50 - $100 mods, I guess. Start at $200 and go up from there.

No, you can get plenty of mods for a lot less but the ones you mentioned are expensive. Just to give you an idea, here is my pin with the new Back Glass from CPR, my ColorDMD and a photoshop of the light up panel.

Test (resized).jpgTest (resized).jpg

#6020 6 years ago
Quoted from BudManPinFan:

Thanks!! I have the CPR backglass and wondered how the light up speaker panel and Color DMD would look with it. Is that the LCD version of the Color DMD? I'm thinking about going with the LED version. That's going to be the best mod available for this pin.

Yes, it is the LCD ColorDMD

Quoted from Charger500:

Why don't I just save all this modding money and buy another pin? Then I could start over on repairing and modding that one.

You should buy another pin if you can and once you have all the pins you want you can start modding them or leave them stock... you will be hard pressed to find any DMD title for 2.5k and more sought after titles are 3.5k and up. All the mods can be done over time and is lot easier to swallow spending $200 a year for 3 or 4 years opposed to dropping 3.5k in one shot.

#6025 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Hey, it's a hobby. We spend money on things we like playing with and working on. Was in the garage with my new car telling my wife all of the mods I plan on doing to it and her exact quote was, "It's not a pinball machine, you know." All that time I thought I was getting away with adding stuff to my Getaway she actually noticed everything!

lol, busted!

1 week later
#6055 6 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

Got one of the first light up speaker panels

Nice, I got one too but I did not buy the new cover... do you have the link for the installation? They stamped my receipt but I took the wrong copy.

Thanks!

#6058 6 years ago

It's alright I got it... but I had to stop my installation because there were a few issues.

1. The ground connector off the black wire was too small, no big deal, I just cut it off and put on a larger one.

2. There are no holes to reattach the H channel bracket, guess I could drill them but there isn't anything in the instructions on how to reattach the cover to the light up panel.

3. My mounting brackets are totally different than the ones they show that go on the side of the wood in the back box where mine go over top so I need to make or buy some brackets.

These guys were great to talk to at the show and I like the concept of what they are doing, especially knowing I can take my panel to any game that it supports, just like the ColorDMD, it's not game specific. It's just too bad I have to wait to install the board

#6079 6 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

NUDGE NUDGE, wink wink, say no more
They are awesome playfields, can guarantee that. I won't be doing mine for some time soon, the original is still pretty good.

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Is your wife a goer ? lol

lmao! Classic Monty Python +1 for both of you!

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

So its about equal to Canadian . Do you think its worth it for a B title pin ? Just asking opinions.

If by B title you mean a lower cost machine then nothing that expensive would be of value if you're looking at it as an investment; however, it's in the top 50 and holding at 35 considering all the new pins coming out I'd say that's pretty good. I think one of the reasons it's a lower cost pin is because the production run was high but it's value has jumped up quite a bit in the last few years.

If your PF is beat up, worn out, faded, planking, chipping and/or the inserts are lifting then, yes it's worth it...

#6083 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Totally agree and with the color dmd, lit speaker panel, new decals all available now and maybe a 3d tl in the future the value of the game will only go up.

The beauty of some of these mods you listed is these can be swapped out to another pin or sold separately, it's the reason I still have my plasma dmd and kept my Getaway speaker panel in tact...

#6095 6 years ago

I ran into some issues, the plug was broken on the led controller so I had to solder it back on and they gave me the wrong panel, so I need to talk with them. I paid for the deluxe but got the ultimate, which I did not want...

The remote is clunky and I'm too stupid to figure it out so here's a quick pic for you in white...

20170509_155145_resized (resized).jpg20170509_155145_resized (resized).jpg
20170509_151152_resized (resized).jpg20170509_151152_resized (resized).jpg
20170509_153528_resized (resized).jpg20170509_153528_resized (resized).jpg

#6097 6 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

That sucks about the plug. I'm sure they will send you a new one. Looks great though. What's the difference between the ultimate and the deluxe board?

Yeah, it looks pretty good. The plug could have been my fault but it's fixed so I'm not going to worry about it, although, your probably right I bet they would send me a new one.

The Deluxe has white light only on the panel and color options on the speakers and the Ultimate had color option on the panel and the speakers. This is great for people who want color on that panel but the issue to me is white light on color panels isn't a good "clean" white, more or a pinkish tone... it's like that on RBG keyboards and most LED color changing bulbs...

#6105 6 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I just pulled the trigger !!!
I did a full restore on mine and im not far from you. Let me know if i can be of any help when your ready to go.
Look what was waiting for me when i got home tonight ...

I really like that back glass, I know some people do not, but to me the richness and tones make up for any issues. Enjoy!

#6106 6 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Thanks ! Going in as soon as i have a bite . Ill post pictures in a bit .

Don't those PF need to cure before you install them?

#6109 6 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Not installing the playfield..Wont have that for a few months yet. Installing my new backglass.

Oh...

#6114 6 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Man, that is awesome. Can't believe how stoked we can be over a lit speaker panel, but this game is perfect for it - gives you that sensation of sitting in the driver's seat of a sports car. Now crank up the tunes on your Pinsound with one of my mixes, roll the windows down, and hit the open road!

It really does add a lot to the machine, when I turned it off it seemed ho hum...

#6116 6 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Im pumped... need one now !

Still working out some bugs but this is better... speaker lights are off ATM, I did something backwards on install and trying to correct it but I'm not able to run both together yet, sorry

20170510_201858 (resized).jpg20170510_201858 (resized).jpg

20170510_201701 (resized).jpg20170510_201701 (resized).jpg

#6124 6 years ago
Quoted from freezie:

that glass looks amazing , pardon my ignorance , but who is making them?

He should buy them from CPR...

http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-backglass.html

#6142 6 years ago
Quoted from mjenison:

Hi all,
I finally joined the club this weekend!

I'm debating about doing decals, as I hate the whole process. While the sides aren't terrible, the front is noticeably faded to light pink. May have to pick some up.
Playfield has full mylar that needs removed. Looks like Free Ride insert has some lifting near the top; I'll have to see what can be done there.
Appears to be missing the hair-pin turn guard, unless it's in the bag of spare parts that came with it. Apparently one of the middle super charger magnets isn't working so I'll have to look into that.
Reading through this thread, it looks like I'll have to do some mods:
- extra plastics
- lite tachometers
- faceted pop bumpers
- mountain
- misc stickers (donut heaven, etc)
- light blocking traffic light mod
Might also do
- speaker panel gauge lights (DIY)
- key start button
Haven't decided what ROM to install, but I am interested in looking into the bugs once the machine is up and running.

Welcome!

Quoted from MustangPaul:

but I did light up my pool table with rgb.

Damn Stang, that looks like a tanning bed!

#6149 6 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Mine has a few mylar pieces, and to me they appear stock.

Quoted from Charger500:

Mine is Diamond Plate, but has mylar around the pops, and another piece around the outlanes, I think.

Yeah, mylar was installed around the slings and up top near pop bumpers, even on DP playfields... some owners install it on modern pins too, not a bad idea.

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Weren't they mostly if not all Diamond Plate?

No, the first version was not DP

His is not a prototype because he has "gear" around 1st - 5th and it's orange not yellow

prototype PF (resized).jpgprototype PF (resized).jpg

#6154 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I wonder what will happen if he tries to pull the mylar then. The mylar pulled perfect on my BoP but left the glue and where the glue had baked on to the insert plastic (bubbling under the mylar) it was hard as a rock and couldn't get it off the insert.

Quoted from SUPERBEE:

It's always a roll of the dice when it comes to removing mylar

So true... unless they put it on after waxing the PF then you may have a better chance but it's the reason the Mylar is staying on my EATPM, if CPR ever runs the PF then I'll switch out the PF and keep the original as a backup.

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