Sorry Mr T i can print out the pdf file no worries but none of my Williams/Bally machines have that style coin door.

The third version doesn't look too bad actually. The first one looks like a Stretch Lambo can you imagine anyone actually making one of those cars for real....ohhh the horror of cutting a Lambo in half

Sacrilege

That darker candy red really suits this machine i think, far nicer than the Ferrari red i have seen on other machines. Bloody NICE job

Merry Christmas fellow Lambo drivers, have a great day and drive recklessly

If the power to the machine is off then YES, changing batteries whilst the machine is on doesn't lose settings, high scores.

WOW, that's one way to go about it. Good luck with the whole process, gonna be keen to see your progression

If you mean the red dome light? there is an add for the internal complete unit on Pinside and the dome itself is also available at parts suppliers, at least in Oz they were available anyway.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1027-tilted-pinball/01126-reproduction-the-getaway-high-speed-ii-beacon

Edit : just had a look for the dome in Oz, seems to have gone missing
Edit x 2 : Found some
https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=161

Doesn't look like an original motor but if it works the voltages, etc must be correct otherwise something would have blown by now. My take on the mylar is leave it, doesn't look that bad in the pics. That would be my own personal choice of course, i'd rather keep it on than risk potential damage to the insert artwork. If the original diamond coat clear was good before the application of the mylar then damage from removal may not be such a factor.

DOOOOD i already linked that

More likely going to be a binding issue or gear issue before being power related i'm thinking

Can also use adhesive backed velcro stripping to attach small mods like the Lambo or cop cars.

Hmm think they normally route out behind the plate.

Ohhhh myyyyy

Personally i would go with a colour DMD before adapting to pinsound!

I could respond with "Why not"?
BUT, if you require an answer then it's a personal choice. I've never felt the need to change the original music on any machine, if i wanna hear a disco tune, or.....shudder C-Rap tunes, or whatever genre, then i can always youtube that. I like the original version of La Grange!!! The colour DMD adds a dimension to the machine/s that a change to a "cover" version of a song or any other chosen song doesn't and certainly enhances a machine in the process. Maybe it's a generational thing and i'm just showing my age, that's for other's to decide, guess i was just brought up in an era where if it's not broken, then don't try fixing it.

Changing the music doesn't change the playing experience in any way. If a machine is getting stale to play then perhaps it's time to move it on and try another machine, there is lot's of choice You could have headphones on and listen to any music you want too at the same time you play, technically speaking the music is secondary to the actual game play.

It's just an opinion dude, everyone is different and like different things!! Adding colour to the graphics whilst STILL keeping the same images can not be compared to choosing completely different songs for a machine. That's akin to adding Abba songs to an Iron Maiden machine.

I think so MP. I haven't noticed any different details in the images, as far as any extra graphics, etc and neither on my JD machine. I may be wrong about this but the colourisation of the images perhaps brings a level of detail into better focus to the eye which could certainly make people think there is extra there that wasn't before. Having the contrast between colours would give that appearance, something a monotone couldn't achieve.

J206 connector doesn't mention a pin 8? might be a key though but couldn't be bothered cracking open my back box to check

That's pretty darn cheap to be honest

I think you would be surprised at just how much is usable. Yeah the cab has damage but that's repairable (i have fixed worse), just the cab alone goes for around the $300-$400 mark over here as there is always people looking for blank WPC cabs (virtual pins, etc) The PF is very dirty but just going off the pics doesn't appear to be too bad and rust on metal items is also no big deal.

Sometimes the opto's just need a good clean too

Must have come off the wire form somehow.

Nice looking condition!! Had this machine been re-decaled previously? Just seems to be very new looking, as far as colour fade goes, but still been played enough for wear around the flipper button.

There are other options out there for flipper toppers also!! It's cool and ok to self advertise, i've done the same myself but sometimes dude it's cool to just kick back and chill also

Yes, you can get accurate readings of bad transistors whilst in situ and there is several methods of testing, the one described in pinwiki (depends on which type of TIP- NPN / PNP) and you can also do a so called 'dirty test'. Diodes on the other hand quite often need to have one leg de-soldered to get an accurate reading i believe.

Great idea! but will it impede ball speed to lock balls up into the drop ramp?? Where before a slightly lacking shot in power might still make the ramp, after going through the spinner..... maybe not? Perhaps that's why it wasn't included in the original design as it is the obvious spot to have a spinner?

I generally don't have any issues making the shot but due to the nature of physics you don't always get a clean shot off the flipper bat, which can depend on many factors. Testing by hand does seem an unusual way to do it as it would be virtually impossible to have a base testing speed?? I'm not crapping on the idea btw it would be cool but i'm reasonably sure the idea of a spinner would have been considered in the original plans for the machine.

That's either a CPR set that has been colour adjusted better in recent printings OR it's a rip off of the CPR set (looks to the eye to have better colouring). I say this because the CPR reprints had the alternative wording/extra plastics with "Drink up and race the cops" and "Drive 185 and feel alive"

That would have to be the best alternative translite i've seen for this machine

TBH neither of the 2 examples shown look correct. The coil sleeve should not be protruding through the hole that the plunger comes out of (monkfe's pics) and the bell armature is definitely too short in golfergordy's pics.
I've owned my Getaway for nearly 10 years and never had a problem with the kick assembly not making the loop

Now that's what mine looks like and there's no sleeve showing through the hole it seems

Edit* Ok it does on closer inspection..and so does mine just took the glass off for a closer look. The white end is grubby so it all looked the same colour LOL

Buy the extended dies from Pin Restore for the arbor press setup and that solves any reach problem i've encountered so far. Note that you can't use both longer dies at the same time though, 1 standard and 1 long.

DAMN, just looked up the site and had no idea

I know you probably think that i disagree with everything you post or say Mr T but i do believe that the colour red fades faster due to UV light not the air. Have a great Christmas and safe and happy new year

In your first pic it looks like the lower screw hole was in the wrong place? Seems to be quite a gap there and appears to have broken like it had been under stress? That's assuming that the upper screws are still attached in that pic?

LCD and LED can suit machines individually also i've found. Had a LCD on my JD machine which i think suits it well (general consensus seems to agree) but when that display was swapped to my FT i wasn't quite so keen. A guy i know has an LED on his FT and it looks better to my eyes.

These machines were rated for use with standard bulbs so the transformer won't be stressed, it's more a stress on the driver board to be honest (over time) It's been nearly 9 years since i changed mine over to LEDS but from memory you will need to buy both #555 (Wedge socket) and also #44 (Twist socket) for your regular sized globes and possibly the same for the flashers i think. Again, from memory alone think the flasher wedge style are #906 and the Twist socket style is #89 The pop bumpers you just remove the 2 screws for the cap and those ring LEDS usually have a central wedge connector or globe led body that plugs into the wedge socket, just replace the whole thing with a standard #555.

The switch mounting is correct just the routing of the wires need to go behind the wire form not like yours is.

Normally i would say that Pinball Life is a cheaper option than Marco's but it appears that right now they only have the left one in stock

Best to use the metal Mantis protectors and do away with the plastic style entirely TBH.

The best thing about the metal Mantis protectors (and there are other brands similar) is the fact they are hidden behind the legs. The one thing i always disliked about the plastic style is the excess showing around the leg and they are also well known to damage the artwork by the edges digging in. If the edges around the metal style do damage the artwork (and i've not seen much evidence supporting this as yet) it's within the boundaries of the legs so still out of sight. All that benefit against some extra screw holes in the cab (that are also well out of sight)?? I've used both methods over 13 years and my vote is for the hidden metal style.

Sometimes they just need a bloody good clean too!!

The best way is to trace back to where the wires connect to and using a DMM, test continuity between the 2 ends. That will determine a wire break if any.

Must admit that has me stumped. I've not encountered a lazy opto before on any of my machines that use them, generally speaking they either work or they don't. You wouldn't think speed of the ball would ever be a major problem

Probably could be done with a 1/10th RC lexan body although the width might not be quite right.

No need to destroy the original, just keep it as a spare. Just make a new blank rod with a threaded end (most screw on knobs etc are 3/8th) then add whatever you want as a handle/knob/whatever..

Getaway shifter rod (resized).jpg

It's not about being correct TBH. Why destroy the original when you don't need to?? Getting a rod machined up to the same specs with a thread one end is simple and relatively cheap. Price may depend on who you ask to do the job but it's not a difficult task by no means. It's just a bit of lathe work and pretty much any machine/engineering shop would do it for not a huge charge. It's like about an hours work tops!! And the best bit ..... you still have the original rod to change back to if you wish OR want to sell the machine and the new potential owner wants it original as much as possible.

Hey i could get them made up for a decent price BUT add the postage to the US you guys would be able to get one made yourself for far less which makes as much sense as destroying the original. Let's face it, once the original is gone i don't think you can buy another, at least i haven't seen any for sale anyway.

Do you know what the thread size is? I can most likely get my bro to machine a rod up for you if you want to go that way, i hate to think you'll destroy the original Something else you need to consider is that i'm pretty sure the original rods won't be threaded on the plastic end, they would have been press fitted. So if the one's shown in your pic are internally threaded (most are) you'd still need a thread machined on the end of the original OR maybe a sleeve that is threaded on the outside but round on the inside. Even then the diameters will need to match.

Just to be different, play video mode in 1st gear

Every now and then just for a laugh i shift back down to 1st from 5th and then back up again...mid dodging cars of course

Any Leds showing on the MPU board?? If not, try re-seating the power connector between the MPU and the Driver board, it's the one below the data cable that goes to the MPU (J114) I'm not sure where the pinsound board draws power from as i don't have one on any of my machines. Are there any leds lit on the driver board?? If that's a no then check the connector that brings in power from the transformer. From memory that's J101 (has blue and red wires into the connector)

Good to hear that sorted it
Had same thing happen to my Black Rose recently and that connector was the issue. It will probably be best long term if you replace the connector itself and re wire it. For my BR machine the wires looked ok and i'd gone over them with the Pancon tool again to make sure the wires were seated properly but it didn't sort it completely so i replaced the connector and refreshed the wires, that fixed it!!
Other thing that could create the same problem with that connector is a cold solder joint on the board header pins. If you have replaced/rewired the connector you can rule that part out at least for future reference.

I would start with the basics first before you do anything else.
1st question - When the machine is doing the not powering up thing, aka no dmd, no playfield lights, are there any leds lit on the driver board??
If that's a no then it's because it's not getting power and will be either the connector at J101 due to poor wire connection OR it's because there is a cracked solder joint/s on the header pins of the driver board that J101 pushes on to. Cracked (cold) solder joints have an annoying habit of working sometimes and then stuffing up at other times.
If all the leds that normally light up on the driver board are lit up when you have the non booting problem occur then yes it will be another issue entirely and then you'll need to do a bit more investigating.
When DMD's play up visually it can be mostly fixed by re-seating the data cable that goes from the DMD to the display board (do it with the machine off though). I usually buy Molex connectors from Pinball Life and i still prefer to use the original IDC style. Gotta remember, most of the connectors on these earlier machines are still original and the wires going into the connectors are too. That's why i suggest redoing the wires to the connector by snipping off the end and refreshing the connection.

That Watchdog circuit is on a knifes edge generally speaking so any slight difference in voltage drop can potentially set it off, too many mods attached can do this and also what you have described will have the same effect. Hopefully the good times continue without the need for board repairs

Classily mounted on 2 pieces of 4 by 4
The actual light bar looks ok but yeahh not my thing

Yeah totally agree. I'm sure i spotted a pic ages ago where someone had a light bar mounted to the wall beside their Getaway machine, certainly seen a few pics of full size traffic lights on a pedestal beside a machine (and hooked into the wiring)

Depends on condition as always but perhaps that's a touch on the high side?
Over here in Oz a nice condition machine, all working, led conversion, unmarked playfield but with the usual faded reds on the cab decals they would go for around the 6-7K AUD mark. Current conversion rate for currency shows 7K AUD as around $4630 USD

Got the same on my machine but pretty sure i didn't get them from that guy. Got a feeling they were originally from Mezel Mods cause i know for sure i got my set from the US. The light board inside on one of mine died ages ago so i just replaced inside with a blue led strip, works just the same and looks just as good. Mine are identical to rlbohon3's

Do you mean engine "Revving" noise??

TEST the fuses, sometimes they can look fine but aren't If not a fuse then as mentioned the connectors for the GI may need some inspection, could be as simple as some loose wires into the connector.

Just as a FYI, Using that board helps but doesn't address the underlying issue which is a failing 5V section on the driver board caused by old parts. Pretty sure there is a thread for this particular issue on Pinside which occurs on most WPC machines.

Not without damaging it unfortunately.
It's a pressed fit and super tight!!

You still can but you will need to get a shaft turned to do so which is something i did ages ago. I had a thread added to the end so you could put on various different shifter knobs.

Nice red colour powder coat that one, what's it called?

Not that i'm standing up for the "Ebay douches" cause there are plenty that over charge on item price and also postage price BUT it bares noting that Ebay takes a 12.5% sellers fee on item price now which is the same cut they now take on the postal charge also. This is part reason why "some" add extra dollars to an item price/postal price over what you might see on other sites with little or no sellers fee's.

There was someone selling a metal sign bracket once (can't recall who) which looks fine overall, doesn't lose much of the aesthetic value of stock but is heaps stronger!!

Try resetting the data cable from the display board to the dmd first.

I'd be thinking a shorted transistor on the driver board. I don't have the manual to hand right now but from memory all the flashers are driven separately by a TIP.

Edit* Confirmed!! Left flasher for the supercharger is Enable 1 - Q26

Is that the correct plunger tip?? Mine has a plastic cap on the end of it.
Will snap a pic of it when i get the chance.
Edit* Pic added, reasonably sure it's a factory plunger too.

DSC06633 (resized).JPG