Getaway: High Speed II, The
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Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Look'n good Charger500! I see your pooch photo bombed your DH close-up pic. Also, what kind of redneck getup is that with your light switch?
The mutt's name is Winston. I'd like to teach him how to play pinball, so i could someone to play with. The taped light switch keeps someone from accidentally turning of the pin, cause the outlet it's plugged into is switched. I need to change it.
Maybe wax the supercharger ramp and loop? Also, are you sure that the ball is not hitting the top hairpin turn plastic as it jumps off the loop to make another round? Mine was and was slowing it down each loop. I washered the plastic up about a 1/4" and now the ball clears.
Quoted from simplykind:My HS2 started acting up yesterday. Switch errors and when starting a game the ball auto launches then displays tilt slam and resets. Not sure where the start. Got it working for a hot second by reseating connectors and pushing on chips on the cou, now the error wont go away. Any ideas? 3 pins down for the superbowl party!
Sorry. Can't help too much. Start with the known and go backwards. Looks at the tilt slam and see if it bent and making contact. Do a switch to to narrow down things. From there, I'm not much help. If I were to have trouble I'd be stuck. Look at the owners manual. Good luck. Others here can help.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:My take on a fairly common mod. And you can get a glimpse of my CF blades and black bat conversion.
Cool. And I thought you didn't like to tacky up your game with Matchbox cars. 
Quoted from TheOnlyest:And another very subtle "mod"... Can anyone spot it??
Blacked out supercharger ramp sign.
Here's a few that look right; Lamborghini Diablo 1/24 Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039CYWIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u99MybGZTX1PB
Quoted from TheOnlyest:1/24 is way too big if your going to mount it over the lock wireform ramp. 1/43 is what you want.
Then make it a game room decoration
Quoted from TheOnlyest:1/24 is way too big if your going to mount it over the lock wireform ramp. 1/43 is what you want.
TheOnlyest but you agree this is a period correct diecast as depicted in game?
This is from the internet, so it must be true;
1:43 Scale is a model approximately 3 to 5 inches in length.
1:24 scale is a model approximately 5 to 8 inches in length.
1:18 scale is a model approximately 8 to 11 inches in length.
1:12 scale is a model approximately 14 to 16 inches in length.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:The car you get simply depends on your personal concern with scale, detail and proportionate accuracy, and consistency with the PF graphics. There are low end toys that depict the car adequately and are cheap, but the proportions of the car details is WAY off. And there are high end "collector" versions that are dead-on-balls accurate to the real car. I went with the "Detail Cars" model because their diecast cars are licensed and amazingly perfectly accurate. Detail Cars also makes an assembled 1/43 version, but it has the rear wing and tan interior.
With the model that I bought, I had the option to not attach the rear wing, and paint the interior black like the PF images. The only PF detail I chose to ignore, was painting the wheels gold... But I could always go back paint and them if I change my mind.
OK, since you've done the research, what is your take on the quality of Maisto diecast?
Quoted from TheOnlyest:I'm no nerd, just a hardcore exotic car enthusiast! The 1995-98 Diablo SV is my grail car, and I WILL have one someday, but for now, i'm stuck with rollin' in my Ferrari.
Pictures or it didn't happen.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:The ol clunker... 1991 348ts, and yes, that's me.
Sweet. This is my ride;
Quoted from Grinder901:Here's my ride:
Oh, that's why you like Getaway, but as the chaser, not the chasee. ?
Grinder901 , do you go to Gibson's Donuts?
Quoted from red-line:Hey guys! Quick question to derail the tiny car/sweet iron man gun talk.
I was playing yesterday and on my first ball I swear I got 3 extra balls: freeway EB, burn rubber EB, and a multi-ball EB (side question - how do you get this one? Seems like it sometime randomly lights EB during multi-ball).
Once I started draining, I realized the game only gave me 2 extra balls. Is there a limit to "banked" extra balls? Or am I drunk and got confused about how many EB's I should have had? (seems possible I got confused and the multi-ball EB was actually just the freeway EB, unlocked during multi-ball)
There is a menu setting to limit the number of extra balls you can get. Yours may be set to 2. I maxed mine to 10 cause I suck at pinball.
Thanks to TheOnlyest I'm now looking for a diecast Diablo. Not to add to inside the pin, just as a display piece in the gameroom.
I have the same thing happen to me, but only when the "car" goes in the"tunnel". When it kicks out into the right loop. If I don't hit it with the third upper flipper, it will hit that same post and kick out. For me, it seems that the ball doesn't have enough momentum to roll smoothly down. Maybe the third flipper adjustment Mancave describes would fix my problem too? I do not have this problem on full left to right loops.
So, TheOnlyest how would go about adjusting the flipper? Something is not right when the balling a kicked out of the tunnel.
Stupid iPhone autocorrect. What I'm trying to say is that when the balls comes out of the kick out tunnel it rolls down much slower than when it makes a left to right orbit. If i don't flip with the upper flipper, it will come down and hit the post just below the flipper, the same problem arolden is having, except it doesn't happen during orbit shots.
Quoted from kdunbar:I'm looking at the gap between the bat and your guide, it almost looks like they're touching in the photo
Yes that's what I see also. Looks like to be just a business card size gap.
Quoted from tas_tig3r:I'm restoring and customising a Getaway at the moment. Playfield is nearly done, just cleaning the supercharger loop pieces. I've seen other powder coat their wireform black, green and red, but I went with a slightly metallic medium grey. I'll probably buy new Chrome ones eventually, but I like the grey, so may yet leave it there.
Looking good!
Quoted from kdunbar:I can put a pencil in mine
Ok. I think this is my problem then. Question to the group; how do I adjust and not make it worse? I have some people in my pinball league I can ask also.
I think my issue is more where the flipper is resting. It's too far in, allowing the ball to hit the post. I need to make it not stop as far back, I think. Where it pivots is fine, I feel. The end needs to not stop so far back.
Holy 80spit that's a heck of pin collection you have. I assume you buy and sell all the time. PM me if you have something to sell. I'd like to get. 2nd sometime. EDIT; I see you are over 4 hours from me. Not sure I want to go that far. Still like to hear your story. Welcome to the club!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Now that I've added a few blue LED's into 2X & Super Jackpot inserts, I was wondering what all 3 jet/pop bumpers would look like with blue caps (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/550-5057-05). Has anyone done this, and if so can you please post a pic or two (or link me to posts if you already have)?
I looked at those once. I kinda didn't like the jeweled look. But with a blue bulb they would pop I think.
I'm interested in the progress of this battery/board project. I don't have the skill set to offer any help but following in case I get another pin that has this issue. Please post details as progress continues. Good luck.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Good stuff but for those you have to desolder and remove the ram chip, then solder on a new socket so you can install the NVRAM.
Another option could be this...
https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/
Or a remote holder...
» YouTube video
This is the way mine is, with the remote battery holder. Next time I take the batteries out, I need to actually mount it, as it is just sitting in the backbox.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Very nice Mr T.
I just added an 8 smd light strip to the inside of the hairpin turn ramp. Looks amazing in real life and really reflects well off the supercharger.
I can't figure out where to run the wire to do this. I have a light strip to do this but having trouble figuring where to put it so the wire is hidden. I do t want to see the wire.
Thanks. No rush. Want to have a good plan before digging into it. I always have a fear that I'm gonna screw something up every time I have to lift the play field.
Can some direct me to a location where I can learn how to repair or replace my shooter assembly and outlane kickback assembly? I feel that they are both weak, and will place the ball where it should 50% of the time. Maybe I only need a few parts or maybe I should just replace the whole thing. I feel it is just not performing as it should. Thanks. If there is some written website that walks me through the process, then I'll go there and figure it out.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Just to be sure I understand what you're saying... when you launch the ball it does not always go around the upper loop? And when the ball goes in the kickback it does not always go in the upper PF outhole?
Yes and Yes.
Regarding my plunger issue not making the loop; shot a slow mo video and took some pics. The pic with the upper loop area. The ball will hit the post above that red target. The video looks like the ball hits the left, then right lane before exiting onto the play field. Thoughts? Thanks. See pics and video in link.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxDW4urGhZNhNDdyZHhQS3dGOWc
So if it's mounted in reverse how would it even work? Wouldn't it fire the wrong direction. Yea since it worked when I bought it and I didn't see any jumpers I figured it was good. Had I noticed the hack I would have offered less than $2600.
I did discover something yesterday y'all might want to be aware of. If the game is on, without even starting a game, if you have the glass off and press the switch in the ball plunger lane, the plunger will very quickly and forcefully plunge your finger, causing you to curse! 
Found everything on Marco.
Product Quantity Price Sub Total
Delete
Coil - solenoid #A-14789
Weight: 0.576 lb
Dimensions: 2.25 X 3 X 1.5
1
$14.99 $14.99
Delete
Coil sleeve - 1-7/8" with 3/16" flange #03-7067-3
Weight: 0.07 oz
Dimensions: 0 X 0 X 0
1
$0.75 $0.75
Delete
Spring - compression #10-128
Weight: 0.027 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2.5 X 0.5
1
$0.80 $0.80
Delete
Bell armature assy 4-1/2" long #A-15709
Weight: 1.85 oz
Dimensions: 1 X 1 X 4.5
1
$13.99 $13.99
Delete
Rubber grommet - tan #38-6420
Weight: 0.023 oz
Dimensions: 0.375 X 0.375 X 0.375
1
$0.40 $0.40
Placing order soon.
It said it was the replacement for the out of stock one. Looks to be just a different color. $9 shipping is tough to swallow. Why can't this stuff be on Amazon Prime?
Quoted from MJW:Got these awhile ago from a website called pinball rebel. He has quite a few for different games.
SHINY!. More pics please.
Maybe I should just save my $40 bucks for now and just make an adjustment to the plunger, and line it up more centered on the lane.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Try living in Canada and ordering!! Then you would be feeling the pain!
Yea, but you guys have Butter Tarts and Poutine.
I knew someone would say that. It's all pitted. Not really dirty but I could do some cleaning and waxing.
I decided to make the adjustment to the left with the plunger for now, but order the plunger bits and the kickback bits all in one order, and replace them both.
Funny how one little adjustment turns into a multi stage project. What I thought would be a 10 minute fix has turned into a two week project, with costs involved now.
Where did y'all find what parts are needed? I'm going off of Tilt's recommendations, but I need to know how to find this stuff for myself, and not have to rely on everyone else to hand hold through all this.
Alright then; actually looking at the manual this time, gets me this shopping list, page 2-28 for the kickback, and page 2-27 for the "plunger" kicker, for a grand total of $60.16 US, Sorry to my Maple Syrup eating friends;
SHOPPING CART
Delete Product Quantity Price Sub Total
Delete
Spring - compression 10A-135 #10-135
Weight: 0.021 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 1.75 X 0.5
1
$0.95 $0.95
Delete
Coil sleeve - 2-1/16" with flange #03-7067-5
Weight: 0.06 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2 X 0.5
1
$0.75 $0.75
Delete
Coil - solenoid no diode #AE-23-800
Weight: 0.3125 lb
Dimensions: 1.5 X 2.5 X 1
1
$9.99 $9.99
Delete
Bell armature assembly #A-6306-2
Weight: 1.8 oz
Dimensions: 1 X 3.5 X 1
1
$7.99 $7.95 $7.95
Delete
Coil - solenoid #A-14789
Weight: 0.576 lb
Dimensions: 2.25 X 3 X 1.5
1
$14.99 $14.99
Delete
Spring - compression #10-128
Weight: 0.027 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2.5 X 0.5
1
$0.80 $0.80
Delete
Bell armature assy 4-1/2" long #A-15709
Weight: 1.85 oz
Dimensions: 1 X 1 X 4.5
1
$13.99 $13.99
Delete
Rubber grommet - tan #38-6420
Weight: 0.023 oz
Dimensions: 0.375 X 0.375 X 0.375
2
$0.40 $0.80
Delete
Coil sleeve - 2-5/8 inch flange #03-7067-6
Weight: 0.08 oz
Dimensions: 0 X 0 X 0
1
$0.95 $0.95
Quoted from tiltmonster:The manual is a must and your parts list looks good. These are good project to get your hands dirty that will teach you a lot about your pin. Good luck!
I am learning, Mr. Myagi. Recall I have been through a few issues already with optos, and supercharger ramp, but ready to tackle another.
Quoted from MustangPaul:With that cleaned up you whole pf will stay a lot cleaner and the balls won't spread all that dirt and coil dust all over it.
Under much urging, I cleaned under the apron, shifted the shooter as far left as I could, and put it back together. So far, no misfires. I may have not even needed these new parts, but they are coming my and I'll have them to put in when I want to get into again.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Good news. I think swapping out that coil was a good idea and since you're doing that the other new parts will now last you a lifetime.
Haven't made the swap yet. Running smoother now by moving the plunger left. Not stopping the order. Will keep on hand to swap out when I have a good day to do it.
Quoted from Grinder901:Gentleman,
It pains me to say but I sold my Getaway today to a great collector in Birmingham. It's giving my mom, brother, and I a chance to drive, talk and laugh and I'm happy about that.
I sold it for $4350 delivered and still lost money on it. Doesn't matter. I took a nice game and took it to the next level and I'm proud of how it looks. You guys have been extremely helpful in helping me fix, tweak and mod and I'm grateful.
Maybe I'll join the club again someday.
If you're speeding through Memphis/Shelby County, hit me up.
Always wanted to go to Memphis. Will get there someday and Speed all over town. Good knowing you!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Beautiful pics!
Also, just remember that while you may suck, someone else blows.
Thanks. When you only have one, you have more time keep it up. I play in a pinball league and these guys have 8 and 10 games in their house. Hard to keep everything working 100%, but a fun problem to have.
Quoted from Kawydud:Don't let the league stuff get to you. Some of us used to be in a league, few guys take it way too seriously and it just takes the fun out of it. Getting together just to play is all we do now, no competition.
Agreed. I don't play seriously. I still want to win and be competitive, though. That's what gets to me. There are some serious guys there. One is nationally ranked like 250th and another is ranked 50th in the state. I try and just watch them to learn. It's competitive but still very friendly and something I look forward to when league night comes around.
OK. Showing my newbie, again. In planning for this coil swap on the kickback and plunger, is there a + and - side to these? I'm thinking yes. I will switch wire for wire, but recall on the plunger side, the coil was reversed and flipped it looked like, in order to hack it together and keep running. How can I be sure I'm wiring it correctly?
Quoted from Sheprd:Simple two lug coils can be wired either way if there is no diode; but if there is one, you need to observe the banded side of the diode. Banded side goes to the supply rail, other side to the driver to ground side. Get this wrong and you will short the supply rail through the diode/driver transistor and blow a fuse and perhaps the diode and transistor.
These have no diodes. I could have bought them with diodes, but did not as the originals do not have them.
Thanks. I know I can do this. Simple soldering. I used to solder years ago on a regular basis. I have all the tools; iron, solder, solder wick, tip cleaner, mini vise. I'm ready that way. Just making sure on the connections.
OK, so thinking ahead to my next fix. There are times when the diverter gate on the supercharger will not close at the correct time, sending the ball back down the entrance ramp or over the edge to on top of the pop bumpers. It doesn't happen all the time, maybe 2 out of 10 times. Throws my game off as it puts the ball where I am not expecting it. My only theory is that the "made loop" optos are going bad. As I understand it, they are located on the right side of the supercharger track, coming after the ball passes through the magnets. In my previous fun times working on this, I successfully replaced the entrance ramp opto pair, and having bought opto tx and rx for all five opto pairs, I have stock in hand to replace the "made loop" optos. So after my rambling, my question is this; Do you think that replacing the "made loop" optos would resolve this diverter issue and allow the ball to always exit the supercharger properly and send it to the hairpin turn? Curious of your take on this. Discuss.
Quoted from weaverj:i'd rebuild the diverter first.
Crap. I didn't want to hear that. Replacing the optos is easier, but I guess of no benefit, since they work or don't work, huh?
Quoted from tiltmonster:Well, this is a tricky one, there have been other threads about this same issue, yes it could be the opto, yes it could be diverter but it's more likely the spring and yes it could be the balls need to be replaced where they are magnetized and catch the gate. There are fixes for the spring besides replacing it but I have not needed to mess with mine (but did run into a similar issue which was resolved). I'd start with replacing the balls, then check the opto but its a simple light beam that is broken when the ball pass so if they work then I don't see how it could impact the diverter, unless they are askew? If it is the spring, it's a pretty big job tearing the pin apart just to get to the diverter.
Well, I'll have to do some looking around and testing. I don't have any errors come up during the startup test. So I guess it does lead to the diverter. The diverter works when I last tested it. But I do recall last time I messed with it that it was not freely moving like a flipper does. Flippers freely move when I physically move them but the diverter seemed to have like a resistance at first and then frees up when I physically move it. So maybe it is binding somehow?
Quoted from tiltmonster:These function differently than a flipper, you should have resistance on the gate. Diverter forces the gate open keeping it open then it closes gate with the spring to snap it back into position when triggered by the opto.
Ok. I guess I'll just start with the easiest fix and see if that helps then move on from there.
Success. I put the flanges on the back side. Had to coax the old mushroomed plunger to get the bracket off. Seems to have a little more energy than the old ones. Both accurate also. Overall worth the effort.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Yes, that is what I was trying to say, but you stated it more clearly.
With the flange on the ball side or toward the game, it still would have been trapped by the bracket, so no chance for it to go anywhere. I put it to the shooter side anyhow. My fear was that the armature would slap the bracket when shooting, hitting metal to metal. But it also looks to have maybe an 1/8" to 1/4" more travel this way, to the shooter side, so that's where I left them both.
In my effort to keep this thread alive;
Topic: Cliffy protector for tunnel.
Pros and Cons.
How much of a PITA would it be to install?
Would it keep the ball from overshooting the "hole" ? Meaning right now the ball goes in the tunnel, hits the hole, continues momentum and rolls up the lane a little farther, and then rolls back in.
Thoughts?
Thanks. I guess leave it alone for now then. On again to my intermittent diverter issue; Today I played three games and it messed up two out of the three. First time the gate closed too late, sending the ball over the side on top of the pop bumpers. Next time it trapped the ball, and I had to wait for the stuck ball sequence, hitting everything until it released. So I noticed that the gate appears, to me, to be in the at rest state, too far in as seen in the pic. I see a place to loosen an possibly adjust it in some with an Allen wrench. I wonder if that would make a difference or mess something else up.
Edit; Did a made loop option test and a diverter test. Both good. Still confused.
Quoted from Manimal:Nice, wish I had seen that before I rebuilt mine. But really, don't sweat the Supercharger removal, it isn't nearly as bad as it seems, and you will love being able to get into that back lane and clean and wax.
I will tell you, the best way to do this is with the playfield out of the cabinet if you are savvy enough to unplug everything and return the cables to their original connectors. The reason I say that is while you have the Supercharger off, it is always good to clean and give a little TLC to the drop-ramp mech as well. I pulled the playfield and stripped most everything and replaced all coil sleeves and linkages in a day. But if that is not your bag, then just stick to servicing the Diverter with the playfield in the cabinet.
That's a great idea that I won't be doing soon. Thanks. I will take the supercharger off and since I'm there I'll replace the coil and related wear parts. I want to get the parts list together first before I start into it. I will clean and wax while I'm in there but a playfield removal won't happen at this point.
I got the list together for yet another Marco order for the supercharger diverter;
Product Quantity Price Sub Total
Delete
Shaft - diverter actuator #02-4606
Weight: 1.65 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2.5 X 0.5
1
$6.15 $6.15
Delete
E-clip for 7/16 in. shaft #20-8712-43
Weight: 0.02 oz
Dimensions: 0.6 X 0.1 X 0.75
1
$0.25 $0.25
Delete
Roll pin 3/32" x 5/8" 20A-8716-2 #20-8716-2
Weight: 0.01 oz
Dimensions: 0.1 X 0.1 X 0.5
1
$0.20 $0.20
Delete
Spring - compression #10-128
Weight: 0.027 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 2.5 X 0.5
1
$0.80 $0.80
Delete
Coil sleeve - 1-3/4 x 1/2 inch #03-7066
Weight: 0.05 oz
Dimensions: 0.5 X 0.5 X 1.75
1
$0.69 $0.69
Delete
Coil - solenoid dual Williams #A-14701
Weight: 0.235 lb
Dimensions: 1.25 X 2 X 1.75
1
$12.99 $12.99
I think this would be all I would need. Would someone of knowledge check my work? I got this from the manual on pages 2-30 and 2-31. I'm not sure if I need the Shaft-Diverter Actuator or not. Seems like a piece that wouldn't wear out. My total now with shipping is $28.07.
But before I even make this order and tear it all out, I'm just gonna go ahead and swap the optos for the "made loop". They do work but they are the easiest to change. Making that's a waste of time. Looking for opinions, and then I'll do whatever the heck I feel like.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:That a boy!!!
Right? Doesn't everyone do that? Waste everyone's time getting their thoughts and then go and do what they feel like, not taking good sage advice.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Could you post a video with the gate close-up during a few SC loop cycles? Maybe this could help some of us compare to how our operates, and we might see something in your setup.
Will do. But first I need to watch VCU beat Saint Mary's.
Thanks for the responses. Yea the Rams lost but live goes on. Will get that video posted sometime tomorrow.
Hey Kingpins, A friend of mine is looking for a Getaway; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/46621. He's in the pinball league I'm in. I'll see him in person Wednesday, if anyone is interested in selling to him. I'm not ready to sell.
Quoted from Dirtynerd:Hi all picked up a getaway 2 project getting close to finish but having some problems if anyone could help would be great
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-2-help
Thanks all some great mods and good looking machines cant wait to play
Welcome to the car club! Remember, pics or it didn't happen.
Quoted from Billman:I recently performed a very detailed cleaning, waxing, replaced a few rubbers, swapped out a few LED's, replaced the missing ram flap and became very familiar with my machine in the process. Topped off the project with a brand new set of CPR plastics, couldn't be happier with the results!
Is there a market for used Getaway plastics? How about the new 'alternative' plastics included with the kit?
I may be interested some of those plastics; alternative and used, if you are thinking of splitting the set up. I have a few cracked pieces and I may want to replace the stock with the alternatives.
Quoted from Billman:Let me know which pieces you need, no problem splitting the set up. Probably best to post or email a picture of the piece(s) you seek.
Will do. And I'm willing to share with the group. I don't want to be seen as the plastics hog.
I don't know what the "extras" or "alternatives" you are speaking of. Could you post pics of what those are?
I'd be interested in one of the used and maybe two of those alternate ones. The used one is a slender one that goes on the hairpin turn. Part #31-1695 I think. Looks like this. And the small heart shaped Drive 165, and the smaller Drink Up one. I don't want to start a bidding war on these with others here, but I think they are desirable. So maybe we do something like PM a number that you decide between 1 and 1,000 or something.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:Awesome! I sure wish you guys would do T2 and Road Show since new translites for those dont exist!
Welcome back. Missed you!
I completely remember a 5 ball game, back in the day. And when they changed to 3 I felt like I was being ripped off. Never thought about making Getaway a 5 ball game again. Thought maybe it would kinda be like cheating. The league I'm in is 3 balls all the time, so didn't think much of it. Besides just adding 2 and changing the setting to 5, are there other settings that you would adjust? Would multiball now need 5 balls locked before starting? Would multiball still be 3 or would it be a 5 ball multiball?
So in talking about going from a 3 ball to a 5 ball game. I think I will do it. Want to replace the 3 in there with a new 5. Googling sums up that Pinball Life Ultra Gloss are the best ones, but they are out of stock. They tell me they rejected their last shipment and have no ETA for new stock. Anywhere else have good ones like PBL used to have?
Quoted from tiltmonster:You can only install 3 balls in the machine
OK. I'm new here. So just change the settings to a 5 ball game using the same 3. Makes sense to me now.
I, for one, enjoyed TheOnlyest comments. He helped me through some issues earlier. He may be opinionated, but who isn't. He has the knowledge to back up his thoughts. I will miss him here.
I so wanted to bring my Getaway to the beach, but it had to stay home to have room for the kids. Tough choice I had to make.
Quoted from Bos98:Mine is back together now too. I wired up some IKEA dioder led lights to the 12v at the coin door today.
Looks good. Cool to see another one on the road again!
You guys have got me thinking about upgrades. I'm wanting to put together a wish list. I'm thinking that new mirrored translite, the lighted dmd box, the color dmd. None of these will make me play any better. Maybe I just try and mod the dmd/speaker box myself and try and backlight it with some led strips or something. Y'all got me spending more money on this thing than it's worth, but I don't have plans to sell anytime soon.
I can't find a link for the speaker box light up kit. I thought I saw it on some thread called "This thread is gonna cost you" or something, but it lights up the gauges in the DMD/speaker box, not just the speakers. Anyone found this?
Why don't I just save all this modding money and buy another pin? Then I could start over on repairing and modding that one.
Thanks. It's not much, but adds a little more light. I'd like to back light the more obscure plastics like the deer, but getting to it looks like a PITA.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Where the hell are all my Getaway buddies ? Havent seen this thread so quiet in some time.
Still here Superbee. I placed a Titan order yesterday. Just some new flipper rubbers, sling rubbers, and balls. When I get them in, I'll show a pic. Wish I had more opportunity to play. I can make the time to play, but this old Williams pin is so mechanically loud that it disrups the kid's homework. Joined a league to get my pinball fix in twice a month.
The biggest problem I have on my playfield is raised inserts. They do misdirect the ball at times. I'd like to fix that, but I think it would a PITA. Some wear around the kick hole and the plunger kick, and some light crazing in a few spots, but not enough for me to consider refinishing or replacing.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:You can buy a 12 inch deep throat C clamp from Harbor Freight for 10.00 (they won't ship to Canada so I cant). With that you can access all the inserts. Couple of blocks of wood and a heat gun and you can level all your inserts fairly easily.
Alright. I figured you'd have an answer. That makes sense, but what I'm considering the pain would be removing everything; wireforms, slings, posts, light, etc. just to get to the insets to clamp them. Maybe I'm wrong, but that seems like a big job, at least for me.
That was only of the best, low-down, swampy, mojofied version of that song that I've ever heard.
My buddy Kevin is looking for a Getaway. I told him I'm not ready to sell. I think I may never be ready to sell. But, to help him out. I'm posting his ad here in case anyone wants to sell;
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/46621
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Welcome to the club! Must be aftermarket as I don't think any Getaways came mylared.
Mine has a few mylar pieces, and to me they appear stock.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Weren't they mostly if not all Diamond Plate?
Mine is Diamond Plate, but has mylar around the pops, and another piece around the outlanes, I think.
My plunger was sluggish but was making it around. Replaced coil, plunger, plunger sleeve, and spring. Realigned to strike it dead center. Much more reliable now. Post with pics is back a number of pages in this thread
Quoted from Premier:Hey to all
I have no lights on on the left 2 bumpers i change the bulbs only the bottom bumper light is working any ides whats the problem?
If they worked at one time and now they don't I'd say you have a loose connection. Work back from build, tracing the wires and reseat the connections. If that still doesn't work, look at the bulb circuit board. You may have cold solder joints on those old build boards. Reflow the solder on those connections. I had an intermittent bulb come on and off. Heated up my soldering iron and touched it at the pin connection and it worked and has continued to work after that. YMMV.
Quoted from psychopat:Charger500
What LED set are those? They look great! love the colors too
The previous owner per3per3 installed them. I think they came from Pinballbulbs; https://www.pinballbulbs.com/kits/getaway-high-speed-2
I added LED backbox flashers, lights under the slings, and a few others, like slow blinkers behind the helicopters in the backbox.
I ordered the stickers from Mr_Tantrum . They're cool. Get yourself some.
Got me thinking. Where else could a neat "Tantrum's Tacky" go? How about on this L-shaped ball save piece by the supercharger?
But what should it be? Some thoughts; I kinda like the Slower Traffic one best. What do y'all think?
PS - Like the company name I made up for you Mr. T?; "Tantrum's Tackys"!
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Welcome dothedoo Good find. Lots and lots of info here. Start on page 1 of this thread. Took me a week to get through it all when I joined. Enjoy the ride!
Lots of good choices. These are all public domain; https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Road_signs_in_the_United_States
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Just went up to measure the bracket, and guess what . . . I don't have one (no wonder I never noticed it).
Can anyone confirm if this is the correct part: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10904
Yea that looks like it. The longer side with the notch is on the bottom. The upright shorter piece could be the sign area.
Quoted from Mancave:NICE but if you have a mountain installed you can hardly see that metal plate
Hmmmm mine must be installed the wrong way, the bend is facing down at the front not up at the back
Not necessarily true. Mine could be installed wrong.
I sold my mountain.
I've never had a ball fly up that way, so I'd say this piece is not absolutely necessary.
Quoted from kdunbar:.625 wide X 1.250 tall, 15.88 mm X 31.75 mm
Interesting, I only have the bracket that is attached to the supercharger side. I don't have nor see a place to attach the right sided bracket as shown here.
Wait, is that a mirror bladed image on the right?
Quoted from twenty6point2:++members;
Brought this home yesterday. (Also my first pinball machine)
Sweet. Getaway was, and is, my first and only pin also. Way to go! Welcome!
Quoted from twenty6point2:Only had HS2 for 1 full day and hit this bug 3 times already. I have L-2 ROM. Researching this thread it seems most hit it "rarely." Anyone else experience this high frequency? Whatever the ramp is set to now, it seems to operate correctly, I'll have to look.
Still feeling the game out, so right now it is not too big a deal (kind of fun). Currently inflating the loop champ and grand champ scores. Long term maybe L-5 ROM is the way to go?
Being a Software/Firmware guy, I feel like digging deeper into the differences between ROMs, maybe taking some video, etc. Is this out there somewhere already (I haven't found it yet)?
Looks like this guy has an L5; https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1083-matt-s-basement-arcade/00902-high-speed-ii-the-getaway-cpu-rom-u6
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:All that has me thinking. After my U2 project, maybe I should do an all driving/car music theme from various songs/artists of the period. Keep the song titles coming.
Molly Hatchet-"Flirtin' with Disaster". I
Got lots more. Will check my Driving Playlist
Quoted from GrimDog:Brought mine home today. Happy for my first pin. Needs some clean up but it will keep me happy till I get my DI
Congrats Grim. Nice!!
Quoted from MustangPaul:Never had time for any animals, I'd be off for weeks at a time when I was doing video.
I didn't know you did Video. I'm in AV myself.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Where? I don't see it.
Mr_Tantrum , I forgot to suggest
You add this most appropriate song to you alternative pinsound soundtrack;
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Love the tune but not sure if it has the shit for a pin. Just sayin .
True. Then this one should have the stainless balls to make the cut;
No Getaway on this league night. The host has Waterworld, World Cup Soccer 94, Big Guns, Bobby Orr's Power Play, and Gay 90's.
Quoted from chris_brim:ok as i said some pics of my fully restored custom hs 2
Wow! I saw those pics and I...
How do y'all think I can fix this problem? At any point in the game, the ball kicks out into the shooter lane, hits off the right lane wall, and falls partially back into the knockout trough, stopping play unless I nudge it or let it do a ball search and kick it out again. Happening more frequently now. Wondering what to do. Thanks, speeders!
Yea I got enough wear that a Cliffy would probably solve the problem, but I'd like to keep the original look there and not use one. Was thinks by maybe I need to replace the spring, if there is one, that pushes the ball to the eject site.
TheOnlyest once again came through with the answer. My guide was bent all the way to the right. Bent it in some and now the ball hits it and drops down to the plunger. Thanks again, Steve!
That looks really sharp. The only extra thing I've done on the backbox is change out the standard bulbs for slow blinkers behind the helicopters, to make it look like their navigation lights.
Quoted from TKDalumni:Does anyone have a spare manual they would be willing to part with?
You can have a copy of mine;
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/G/Getaway_HSII_OPS.pdf
This is the Mars bulb I got. In warm white; bright as hell. Gets your attention
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1156-led-bulb-w-stock-cover-36-smd-led-tower-ba15s-retrofit-car/1686/#notab
Same bulls I have in my electric converted lamp post outside.
Mr. T, 7 tunnels for me and replay is at 72M (edit). I’m running the T5 version. I kinda think it does change based on history, making it harder as the average high scores of previous game played goes up. Haven’t come across a reset for that. I have my Special set to award points.
So I’m cleaning and waxing the playfield today and decide to unscrew the stoplight to clean around and under it. It’s then that I see a screw under the stop sign. And I think, why not move the stoplight back from being attached at the end of that plastic to further up on that plastic. It fits back there and to me almost seems like that’s where it should have been from the beginning.
Nope. No where to new plastic on this. It looks original. The clear cover on my trough looks not as wide as yours and I don’t have a red post behind the light. Looks like I am missing the grey plastic cover for that trough switch also.
Quoted from tiltmonster:Looks cool!
I will say that the switch cover is an important part, sure you may not have needed it in the past but if the ball hits those connections you could cause a short, the missing red post is another part that was there to help protect that connection. Can you add the switch cover and still leave your lamp there?
Yes, it should fit. Now where Can I find this cover?
Thanks, but the switch is like the one on the other side’s trough, of which I do have a cover, and that measures more closely to the medium cover. But I suppose I could use those small covers for the optos on the supercharger.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9860
BTW, if you are shopping for pinballs, I just got 24 Super Shinys from Titan Pinball. And don’t tell anyone, but I got 10% off using the promo code TITAN10. I’m good for a few years now. Gonna seal them in Food Saver vacuum bags.
https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=70
I’m sure a number of y’all have beat this score with 3 balls. This week marks 1 year since I bought this, my first and only, pinball. I have this set for a 5 ball game. My best score so far. And it’s not the high score thanks to my buddy VividPsychosis . He has the top 2 spots.
I’m up for a friendly challenge. My replay is set at 72 million, where replay gets an extra ball.
Here are my settings;
Getaway settings
All factory settings except the following;
A.1
.01 5 balls
.03 10
.04 Off
.14 replay award; extra ball
.15 special award; points
.20 custom message on
.23 time and date
.24 show
.25 dim no
.26 no
.28 yes
.29 off
A.2
.12 photo shoot on
A.3
.17 free play yes
A.4
.09 reset every OFF
.10 00
.11 00
.12 00
.13 00
.14 00
U.4 time and date
U.5 message
Been awhile Grinder901 yea I’ve owned Getaway for a year and I’m not tired of it yet. Don’t think I will either. I really dig 90’s Williams pins. Love to get another.
My thoughts are with you, Gizmo, and your family. Your post touched me. Hoping for the best. My dog Winston, a mini sproodle, is a big part of our family. I can't imagine what it will be like when it's his time to leave us.
Quoted from TheCapn:Bought the mods from 'Budmanpinfan'. Fast shipping and well packaged. Kudos!
Pics or it didn't happen. :0
Quoted from SDTMinSTL:Just wanted to say hello and introduce myself.
My name is Jason/"SDTMinSTL" and I am a proud Getaway owner finally. Looking forward to reading back through the thread and getting some much needed hints and help. Saw some of the mods you guys are running! Awesome. My head is spinning with wants already. Haha.
Welcome @STDMinSTL I see you also have a BSD. I had a chance to get one of those, but passed and found Getaway instead.
Hey, Speeders. Seems like dust has been collecting on the Lambo, so I thought I'd try and get get things going and burn the carbon out of the carburetor. Let's go!
On a game this morning, I noticed that the lock ramp is staying up all the time now. I hear and see that it seems to be trying to go down when conditions are met to bring it down; it seems to try and then stay up. It states there is an Up/Down Ramp Error. That's all I have for right now. I will look at a switch test to see if I have a switch problem. Was working great up until now. Any help on what switch to look for, if you know off the top of your head. Otherwise I'll dig through the manual. I will do a T.14 ramp test as well. Suggestions on where to start appreciated. I haven't had to use a soldering iron on this for a long time.
Thanks for the replys. I'll start looking into it tonight. I hope this is a simple one. I want to have it working during the Turkey Day break.
Quoted from MustangPaul:I think you mean carbon off the valves. If you have carbon in the carburetor you've got BIG problems.
Of course. I was fudging my way through that statement.
Quoted from pkrobin:Diablo is FI
Another misstatement on my part. I'm a hack.
It’s fixed for now. Couldn’t find any solder so had to get a drop from a tinned wire laying around. Got enough on for now until I pick up a solder wick and more solder to do it right. Damn thing was tricking me though. After the fix I turn it on with the playfield up and not only did I get the up/down ramp error, but I also got a shifter error. Something told me to ignore it and just try a game. I ran it through the gears with the glass off, ball in hand, until a lock was set and it went down the way it’s supposed to. Finished that game. Turned it off and back on, and both the ramp and shifter errors cleared. Man, I get schooled every time I have to work on this thing.
Once again, thanks to the Speeders here that helped me through this "under the hood" repair!
EDIT: I caught myself this time. It's a rear engine, so it's an "under the trunk" repair, doofus! 
Quoted from chubtoad13:What’s the going rate range for a getaway?
I’m thinking about parting with mine, but I haven’t watched the market on this game.
I paid $2600 for mine just over a year ago.
Welcome back, 
dcannan . You have a great collection of pins. You could open an arcade!
Has anyone replaced the Playfield Slide Assembly Left and Right sides; part A-15421-1 and 2? Or can they be repaired? Mine jam every time I lift the playfield, meaning the "arrow" piece jams to the left and right side of the rail/slide piece, and doesn't allow me to lock it up without great hasle. At this point, I have to balance the playfield on edge, sitting on the Leg Rear Guides, and try and bungee strap it to keep it from falling. Very precarious, so I hate lifting it up unless I really have to. I see Marco has them in stock. maybe I just suck it up and buy new ones. Thoughts?
Quoted from dmacy:Can you take a good picture from the side straight on?
Here it is. The barrel nuts are in good shape. I tighten them up once in a while.
Quoted from dmacy:Ok I don’t see them unless I’m blind tonight?!
So this is how that mechanism should be and hopefully how you can see how it would release, drop down, and be able to be removed. And if you understand how the mechanisms work, please ignore.
But looks like you’re not hooked into the nuts?
Thanks. I know HOW it works, I just can't get it TO work. The "arrow" looking piece that glides on the guide I guess has enough play in it that it gets stuck to the inside of the guide every time, so that I can't get it to lock onto the upper barrel nut. I always have to try and free it while holding the playfield up with my other hand, but it gets jammed every time. Now, the operation of it may have something to do with the attachment of the spring. I see yours is somehow wrapped under and attached somewhere under the hinge point. Mine has always been attached at this point (red). Maybe that is not giving it enough tension. Is it simple enough to see where to connect the bottom of the spring inside and under the hinge point?
Quoted from dmacy:Sorry that I came off like a dick; it was not my intent. I'll get a better picture of the mechanism tonight for you. But does sound like your spring isn't working/set where it needs to be to work.
Well, now it sounded like I was a dick. No offense taken, just trying to clarify my issue. Thanks for the help.
Yea that helps. I guess mine just has lots of play at the swivel point, allowing it jump off the guide. Maybe I’ll just take them out and bent them in my vise.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:FYI...
Getaway was not originally designed with the PF sliders, it was an afterthought revision. Hundreds of games had already been produced, but not shipped. They went back and retrofitted all those games with the slides. The first version of the slides were shitty, they were made of crappy steel... They bent, deformed and cracked easily because the complete Getaway PF assembly weighs a ton, one of the heaviest ever... Hence this afterthought!! After several uses, they get jacked out of shape and never work right again. Add a dipshit operator that doesn't understand how they work, and they're toast in no time.
Near the end of the production run, Williams revised the slides with ones that actually worked, and continued to used them through 1994 with no issues.
The revised version of the slides (the ones that Marco and others are currently selling) are different, and made of strong quality steel. If you are one who has non-functioning and jamming sliders, you have an earlier production game, replace them, problem solved permanently. The pics that "dmacy" posted are of the revised sliders... His is either a very late production game, or someone already replaced them at some point.
Mine is also an earlier game, and I had the same issue some of you are having when I got it... I replaced both slides years ago, and not a single problem since. I also repaired all the gouged up wood (just like Chargers) and repainted the inside of the cabinet while I was at it.
Damn good information to know. A wealth of knowledge. Thank you, TheOnlyest Sounds like an order to Marcos or Pinball Life is in the future. I don't want to risk dropping the playfield. Mine do look different than
dmacy 's.
EDIT: Looks like Pinball Life has them in stock. Why the $1 difference, I don't know.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3161
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3163
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Dang, now I get to spend more money on my Getaway! Props as usual for the detailed insight!
Yup. I just ordered.
Sometimes there are connectors that aren't used, because the same board goes in multiple games. Not saying this is the case here. If it works without it plugged in, I'd say you're good.
Quoted from pkrobin:The one in the pic is plugged in but also I labelled it, so with in-line connectors like this I generally put a letter on the male and female end. So that only helps if I can actually find the end unfortunately. As for if it works or not I need to debug a fuse issue F105 before I can play the game. Its a 22ga wire or so, so shouldn't be related to the fuse.
OK. Sorry for the misunderstanding. If someone doesn't beat me to it, I'll open my backbox up and take a pic and try and trace it. But it may not be until tomorrow sometime.
Interesting. Mine are both black. The flyer may have been a pre-production test mule. If you look at the shifter picture you see the headlight graphic on the front. That’s a giveaway that those pics were of the first run. The headlights aren’t on later models. Also the RPMs are not labeled. Early run.
Good info. Thanks for clarifying. Of course I was talking out my @$$. My posts there seem like they are 3” wide. I’m always hitting those damn things and going SDTM!
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Did somebody just get their floors shined? They look nice. Is that real wood or laminate?
That’s real oak. Refinished them a few years ago when we updated the kitchen. Turned out nice. Thanks.
Quoted from 0geist0:Thanks, I couldn't find them on his site. Sent Terry an email.
The parts are A-17749.1-1 for the left and A-17749.1-2 for the right.
Quoted from 0geist0:How did you support the playfield when you changed them?
I set the playfield on the sled-type rails on the cabinet floor and used two bungee cords around the head. Before now that was the only was to keep it up.
Quoted from TheOnlyest:WTG! And you wont be gouging up the inside of your cab anymore either...
Yep. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge once again, Onlyest!
Quoted from 0geist0:You did it by yourself?
SWMBO helped hold it up while I strapped it.
That's a good idea. The two there now are machine screws into threaded metal receivers. Wouldn't hurt to add a pan head wood screw on each. Agree to predrill a smaller hole than the screw, and to make sure the screw is shorter than the thickness of the playfield.
^^What he said.^^ I had opto problems. It turned out to be the opto receiver and not the transmitter but I changed both, with TheOnlyest big help. Same symptoms.
This is in my MIL’s basement bar. I could have it if I could just get it 850 miles home. Would be sweet to hook it up to the pin’s traffic light. Yea, it’s a real traffic light.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Same to you. Did Santa bring you anything pinball related?
Nope but I’m still working on Mrs. Claus that we need a 2nd pin.
Agreed. Much better, but it’s one of those purchases I hate to make. Doesn’t make it look or play any better. No visual value.
I’m trying to maximize my gameplay. At one of the pinball league nights I’m in, they have a Getaway. Trying to dominate it during league play. What do you all think about activating Secret Mania? Is it worth it?
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Absolutely.not. What is worth it is taking advantage of free ride to step through the gears faster (along with opportunity for more points), also 5th gear only and hang to the left for video mode. How many balls and what kind of scores are you talking about?
Quoted from tiltmonster:Are you talking about letting the ball drain on purpose to help get through the tach/gears more quickly? If so, I'd say no, never... especially in a tournament/league setting.
All the pins in league play are set to 3 balls. 1 extra ball is allowed. If any more extra balls are earned, you have to plunge and drain them. We are playing using IFPA rules, with the finals counted toward your IFPA standings. We play 5 different pins each night. We have 7 league nights, one every two weeks, with the best 5 nights counting. We play in groups of 3 or 4 against each other for points.
I have been purposely draining to advance gears, timing the ball save time. Works to get through the gears quicker, trying to activate each feature along the way; video mode, supercharger, red line mania. I find my highest scores come that way vs. never using the ball save.
Quoted from twenty6point2:I think never using this strategy may be strong if you know the game well.
When 2 balls are locked it can take a long time to register the drain with the trough empty. Avoiding it in this situation seems like good advice. In a multi-player game that will be more frequent. On L-2 and L-5 code, if it is allowed and 2 balls are not locked I feel like it is pretty safe. If you don't know the code or know it is L-1, I would consider avoiding it.
ROM REVISION ........................................... L1 L2 L5
Standard generous free ride time ......................N Y Y
tiltmonster is your concern about the danger of not getting a relaunch or that it shouldn't be allowed? It doesn't seem particularly fair when registering the drain timing changes depending on how many balls are in the trough, but on the other hand it does reward a player with more detailed game knowledge.
This is all in an effort to get a better score, since I suck at playing. Yes, I would be careful to see how it is timed before attempting it in league play. On mine, I can get 3 purposed drains most of the time before it goes out. After Red Line Mania, and a 2nd round of gears, the time is shorter. I'm using L-5.
Quoted from pkrobin:...Also, i did have a problem at one point after waxing everything with the ball slightly hitting the plastic covering the hairpin turn on the left and being slowed. Make sure yours isn't.
I had this problem as well. The ball was jumping down over the gap and hitting the hairpin turn plastic cover, and slowing it down. Had to add rubber washers on the screws to build up the gap. Had to put longer screws in to account for the taller space required.
Mr_Tantrum to the economical mod rescue, again. Thanks Chris.
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Quoted from tiltmonster:lol! Looks nice
They aren’t “cheap”, they’re “economical”.
Can someone tell me if this is the correct flipper coil for the upper third flipper? The reason I ask is because it is difficult for me to hit the upper loop shot from this flipper. I’ve balanced the game with the PinGuy app and the flipper is adjusted to where it appears to be in the correct resting position. It flips as if it functions properly so I think it’s working correctly. Thanks.
AEB06B1C-6419-46A5-9413-C98C27AE5F9A (resized).jpegQuoted from flynnibus:That is the correct flipper coil.
Check things like the actual alignment of the flipper bat. Also try to film the ball or watch it as it makes the loop and make sure it's not something else interfering with the smooth loop action of the ball.
That is the correct flipper paw, etc. Just make sure the flipper has the proper up/down adjustment.. should have enough play to wiggle up and down about 1/16". Make sure the flipper movement is without resistance or dragging in and out. Lastly you'd check that you are getting both high and low power flips.. but that's less of an issue with these fliptronics games
Maybe I just suck at pinball.
So here is my loop post set up. Seems correct. The flipper doesn’t have any resistance until about 80% extended. Then there is some slight resistance to fully extended. See the pic with my fat finger showing where in the travel that it starts to hold back some.
0DFE9394-D0C9-425A-AE9F-A6FFDFC484FB (resized).jpeg3C07E922-7904-43D0-96A4-56BB594EA308 (resized).jpeg75A13985-78D6-4874-82D5-22209E14D28A (resized).jpegI can’t get a clean shot. Maybe 1 in 15 times. It rattles off the post and all over the place. I understand not getting it off the tunnel shot cause for me the kickout bounces around and doesn’t roll down smoothly.
I set my angle to 6.5* and it's level, all according to the PinGuy app. That post needs to flash yellow or something, like a disabled vehicle, cause it's clearly in the road. It's not even on the berm. It's no wonder my Lambo hits it all the time!
7ec2ddc7483e07959bf57db09f6e4f43baf43f35.jpeg (resized).jpgQuoted from OlliG:Printing my own donut heaven mod right now
If everything turns out fine, I will share my STL files for this ... Stay tuned ...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Following this. I have access to a 3D printer. I’m assuming that’s how you’re doing it.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:As many may have seen, I’ve introduced some blue into my Getaway to help support the police presence in the theme (blue pops, blue flipper rubbers, couple of the clear inserts, etc.) I also just replaced my red sling flashers with blue and played for the first time tonight. I must say that I really like them. I know we’ve had this discussion before, but I’m on the side that really likes the flashers to be bright so that they draw attention to themselves when they are triggered. My flasher of choice is the Comet 13 SMD tower, and the blue in the slings definitely has a visual impact.
So, if you want to mix things up a bit with the white or red I bet most of you are using, I recommend you give blue flashers a try on your slings (these are actually the two flashers located in the ball lane dividers near the flippers that flash when the slings are fired).
Love to see a video of this in action. I think that's a mod I could actually accomplish successfully.
Quoted from Kobaja:I just love your shifter. Any chance i can tap into your source to get mine in leather too? How did you do this?
Yea, I want one too. Cool mod.
Apologies for being away for so long. Life got in the way.
Weird that I come back after being away for so long wanting to discuss a supercharger issue, and red-line is having a similar problem.
Played today and got an insane score, almost 500M; way more that what I’m capable of. So there was s some scoring issue happening. That and when the ball goes in the supercharger it’s going very slow around, and sometimes the diverted gate won’t open even when the light is flashing. So I haven’t done any testing yet of optos or anything. Just wanted to say Hi and present this problem to the group. Thanks for the help.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Hey Charger, life seems to be getting in the way of pinball for many of us recently.
Good to hear from you, Mr. T! Work has been very busy, recovering from a broken foot and heart issues, and I recently got back into listening to vinyl. Never quit on pinball; in an underground league that plays every two or three weeks. Just waxed the playfield last week. It’s played fine for a long time. I need to do some troubleshooting and try and figure this out.
Quoted from robertmee:On the up/down ramp, is there supposed to be a rubber grommet that rides in the rail slot for the actuator arm? I've looked at several pics, and the video on youtube about fixing the up/down ramp, and none have this piece. My game has a rubber grommet, but it keeps falling out of the slot and jamming the ramp.
Mine doesn't have one that I can see. I'd leave it out and see how it performs.
Quoted from steve1515:Hmm... Interesting. I would like to add a comment that on mine, I had it off center and it didn't work correctly. I had to use some washers to raise it and also center it on the ball. Now the concave part of the shooter tip lines up perfectly center on the ball and it works 100% of the time.
Another note, that I've posted in the past was that on software L-2, there's a bug where you can get 2 balls pushed out into the shooter lane at the same time at the start of mutiball. I've posted steps to reproduce this in the past, but I don't think anyone has ever tried to confirm for me. Anyway... when this happens it usually causes the metal at the exit of the trough to bend outward and then causes additional problems. Not sure how to stop that though.
EDIT: Link to post about replicating the bug: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/43#post-3099181
If anyone can test this, I would appreciate it.
I have L-5 and have never experienced that problem. Maybe time for an upgrade.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Well, I was hoping this day would eventually come. As of today, I'm a pinball polygamist!
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That is so cool. I've played JP a few times. That's a good one. I so want another. Somehow, some day.
I haven’t posted in a long time. But I’m back, and hope to visit more often. I got the highest score on Getaway since I got it 6 years ago. I’m running L-5 Chip I believe. I only had one extra ball. The big run came in the Supercharger 4 th gear mode. I was able too keep hitting the supercharger, like twenty or thirty times, by making a “ski pass” from the left in lane to the right flipper.
87B4EEBB-15B9-4CFC-939D-D5CEF940A86B (resized).jpegQuoted from Mr_Tantrum:Getaway is back together and lineup is ready to go (I had borrowed leg bots from my other two machines while Getaway's were being powder coated). I really like the red powder coat and glad I did it, as the playfield swap made my previously vinyl coated armor just look cheap. Found a really good powder coater locally, and ended up costing me $150 out the door for the 9 pieces (4 x legs, 2 x rails, 2 x hinges, lockbar) plus 8 bolt heads.
It's nighttime here so photos are a little dark, but I'll take some during the day tomorrow and add to the post.
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Beautiful job on all three machines, Mr. Tantrum.
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I just got around to redesigning my custom blades after realizing the art wasn't high enough on the blade to show properly (see earlier post). Anyway, here are some pics. If you are interested in making your own, I'm happy to provide the Photoshop file and/or the PDFs of each section.
Since I don't have a banner/wide format printer, I just printed in 3 sections per side on glossy 11x17 on laser printer. Then I cut out with straight edge and razor knife, used appropriate color sharpie around all outside edges (not joints), taped sections together on backside, then used double-sided tape around all edges, joints, and sporadically on back of blades.
To install, I cut out the circle for the backbox hinge, unscrewed the hinge, placed blade so that it aligned with bottom edge of glass channel, then moved playfield around until I could press down on all around to secure the blade. After putting hinges back on and putting playfield back into place all was good.
I realize this is a poor man's DIY, but I really like the look and feel of having the blades. If the seems end up bothering me too much (they are barely noticeable) then I may spring for professionally printed ones in the future.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
These look great, Tantrum. When I was last in UPS, they have a large format printer. I suppose it would then be possible to print those at UPS on glossy paper, and then use double stick tape? to adhere them, maybe?
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Wow, impressive. I got over 1 billion once and thought that was pretty good. 3 billion? Yikes.
Hitting the supercharger in 4th gear mode 20 or 30 times... may I ask how long your timer is on that mode? Mine seems way too short to hit it more than about 6-7 times. I have gotten to 35 million on the last shot up just as the timer runs out, but that's about it.
Maybe it went into a glitch with my L-5 rom code. Normally it’s 30 seconds. I don’t know but maybe it you hit the SuperCharger continuously like I did maybe 10 times in a row it just keeps building. I couldn’t pay attention to the DMD for the score. It’s almost like I took the glass off, but I wouldn’t do that
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:An assumption on my part, but I've had games where I run through the gears multiple times. Maybe he means 20 or 30 times total when running through the gears two or three times during the game (still an accomplishment).
Mr Tantrum,
I didn’t even get to Red Line Mania. Maybe it’s just a rule in L-5 Rom. It just kept stacking up it seemed.
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