If you've not seen it already, my full list is available for download here: http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball

I used all singles for inserts and GI of these bulbs: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050ng.htm

I used these #89 for flasher in playfield (my originals were 5 SMD, but raplaced with this since 5 was not bright enough for me): http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/13smdg18tower.htm

My first and only time took a few hours. Have to lift playfield, then with pin off (you do not want to short anything) focus on a section at a time, check your work occasionally, then continue. I also took the time to clean the underside of all the inserts with alcohol and cotton swabs. This meant removing some of the circuit boards to get to them. Also, had to unscrew many sockets from playfield to replace bulbs.

I can't recommend enough to also buy some extra bulbs as you may want to experiment with different types or colors in certain spots.

In my case there is no doubt that my inserts had over 20 years of this dust layered underneath and they required some actual friction to release all of it. I cannot describe how nasty and dingy my inserts were, and I practically went through a box of Q-Tips on this project. Each insert took 2 drenched swabs to clean until no more black appeared, and then I used a third dry swab to wipe up any remaining liquid that may have left behind.

I appreciate your air tip, however, as I will definitely do this as part of my regular maintenance on the pin. Sounds like a perfect job for my portable air canister.

Welcome to the club, and yours looks really nice!

Please don't take this as a nit-pic as your playfield looks vastly better than mine when I acquired it. I too had some damage around the FREE RIDE insert (much more extensive than yours) that eventually drove me crazy. If it ends up bugging you to the point that you want to do something about it, then here is how I did it (although at some point, I'm going to try again to get my lines a little better): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/61#post-3319238

Also, there are a few simple/cheap lighting mods posted here in the thread that add a lot to the table you may want to incorporate if not already on the pin (sling gauges, speed limit sign, tunnel disc, apron, etc.) I was amazed at how much a little custom lighting added to the overall experience.

Enjoy your new Getaway as I think it is a very fun player's pin.

Mine came with mylar in the pop-bumper area, and I've decided to just leave it alone for now unless someone can convince me I need to pull it up.

That's a thing of beauty you have there!

I think you mean "Ball Trap Bracket" for those of you who ever need to find one: http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-HS2-01-10903

Did you ever update to new one with police cars? Would love to see it.

Wow, what a difference. What process did you use to remove the failing mylar, how difficult was it and how long did it take, and did it damage the playfield anywhere? Overall, looks like A+ for Diamond Plate.

I missed this one. Can you please link to post?

Found this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/3#post-1471650

Is this what you did but with doubles?

Actually, just found this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

I print myself on 6 color inkjet with high gloss photo paper, cover with Mylar, apply double sided tape on back, then cut with knife or scissors around print edge. For plastic decals I did a little different and used high quality Epson inlet paper (not thick photo paper) for the light to shine through. I am sure vinyl would be best, but I haven't researched what is needed for this.

Vinyl would probably be best, but haven't researched this. I really don't have a desire to sell them or be in the decal printing and distribution business, but would not be opposed if someone else wanted to have a few printed and then share them at cost with others.

I just wanted to do some customizations on my pin, and figured if I had already done the graphics work then why not share with others who may want to do the same.

You still need to light that speed limit sign just like your sling gauges . . . it's begging for it.

Here is what I used for gauges and speed limit sign: http://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm

Where's your donut holder . . . on the other side?

Would you mind posting a pic of your current setup from inside & out here for reference purposes?

See, sometimes people here do know what they are talking about! In all seriousness, glad it ended up being what we thought, and not something more costly/complicated. Now you can get on with Redline Mania!

I was mainly wondering how/where you placed the two bulbs for best effect.

I am in mid-high 90's with all new optos. For me, I am satisfied with the speed vs. trying to do something else to improve it (e.g. replace magnets). In my case, even if the ball initially barely makes it to the first magnet, there is always enough power to throw it full circle and to keep it looping. Two balls is the most I've had going around together, and that works great. I guess I could test 3 at a time by hand, but haven't really thought about it up to this point.

These are looking great!

Look back a few posts, I provided the direct link (unless Charger bought the last 2).

I though it was needless too, until a few plays ago I pinged it somehow with a jumping ball.

Switched my Donut Heaven decal from my first to my most recent design - after having it on, I like this one best. Overall, the colors match the pin better, and can't beat the price.

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It is a 2 phase process, both in utilities. First phase is for you to set the default high score for each of the places. Once this is done., then you must do the high score reset, and then each of the new high score defaults will be applied. The loops will set to whatever the built in default is (2, I think), and you will just have to beat it.

If you can't figure it out let me know and I will go look for exact menus.

You had to have missed something.

Definately can on L2. I have done it multiple times. Just follow Tiltmonster instruction.

Yes, my custom homemade blades: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/54#post-3206810

Artwork is available for free download. Also, I recently had to replace due to a big tear caused when working on playfield, but this time I did w/o car on left blade which I like better (just have to hide layer in Photoshop, if I get time I may go ahead and create/include alternate in download file). Pretty easy DIY, and the seams are barely noticeable. Of course, you could always have them professionally printed on a single sheet of adhesive vinyl.

http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball

Has anyone used any UV lighting in their Getaway? I just have a 3 LED at the bottom of the ramp sign, but was wondering if anyone had tried to use spots to light up the florescent orange around the center table tachometer. Just wondering how well the orange reacts and what it looks like.

Now that I have some extra Lexan laying around, I was thinking about making my own replacement supercharger entrance plastic (you know the support one that seems to break on everyone's pin). Since my original was broken, and I can find a full scale image on the web in my brief searching, can someone please scan theirs in hi quality and post/email to me? Don't worry about colors or anything, as I just want to use the template to know how to shape my plastic and where to drill all the holes.

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Yes, that would be fine. I just need to get exact outline of sign and hole size & placement. As usual, my plan would be to create my own custom decal and post on my download page for all to have if anyone else needs to make their own.

Tests, T4-27

I have an extra one of these for sale. Don't know if it is as bright as yours or how much yours costs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/64#post-3386275

Thanks for the intent, and I'll keep looking for a sample. I was hoping that maybe someone already had an extra, an old one they had replaced, or a new one they were about to put on that they could scan.

Nothing to apologize about, just thought I would offer. I tried other LEDs from Amazon and sent them back even though they had a bazillion SMDs on them for just not being bright enough. I'm finally happy with this one that I bought from Autozone.

Anyone here interested in a new 6.5" 4 ohm Shielded Woofer? - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dc160s-4-6-1-2-classic-shielded-woofer-4-ohm--295-308

I bought in brand new in April to replace a rotted out cabinet speaker, but now I am doing some upgrades and need a 8 ohm version. I also have a 5.25" and 3.5" bought at the same time and never used for the backglass (I had to buy pairs but only used one of each, of coarse). Let me know, and I will work to make a deal on them.

https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-wave-plx32-3-1-2-coaxial-speaker-pair--267-770
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-pl53bl-blue-label-5-1-4-triaxial-speaker-pair--267-080

PM Sent, thank you for anything you can do to help me out on this.

Yes, TheOnlyest was kind enough to send me a scan copy of a reproduction plastic. However, I am finding a little quirkiness about it. His scan is very good, but the hole layout and even the shape is a little out of square - very bad for my OCD!

I don't know if this is actually how the original was and everything will line up perfectly, or of the QC on his aftermarket piece was bad. At this point, I am going to take what he sent me and create a basic template to check alignment before I move on to artwork and creating the piece out of Lexan.

I think what I can do is disassemble my broken one (OEM) and trace the pattern and hole layout. This will give me the exact hole alignment, and then I can overlay this on top of the scan that TheOnlylist provided in order to complete the pattern (mine is missing both legs).

I realize this is not life and death engineering, and everything doesn't need to be exact to the nearest micrometer. However, if I'm going to take the effort to create a graphic and share it with others, then I would like for the alignment to be accurate.

Also, I have seen the metal supports which I think is a good option (would be happy to use as template if someone is willing to scan and send to me, assuming this is the exact shape of the original plastic). Even if I had one I would want to still create the graphic. Like I mentioned before, since I already have the Lexan I thought I would take a crack at making my own before purchasing a metal one.

Oddly enough, what is driving me here is kind of silly. The previous owner used a couple of oval shaped metal pieces as legs for the broken sign. However, no matter how I adjust them, they always look tilted, out of alignment, crooked, etc. and it drives me crazy! Also, they are very tight and no way they can move on their own, but I swear that every time I play they look like they are in a different skewed alignment.

Agreed, but I'm looking for a project to take up a little bit of my free time . . . getting tired of watching all the election junk on TV in the evenings. FYI, your scan will definitely be helpful, so I do appreciate you taking the time to do it. I just think the hole locations need some minor tweaks to ensure proper alignment (who knows, probably within tolerance, but again my OCD rules in matters like this). If I ever get it done and it breaks, my next step will be to buy a metal reinforcement plate.

More than one way to skin the cat, but I just bought these and clipped to GI bulbs (same for speed limit sign):

Post Lights (natural white): http://www.cometpinball.com/4-SMD-6-3V-LIGHTED-POST-LIGHT-p/mtxpost.htm
Alligator Clips: http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/wirepack.htm
Extension Wires: http://www.cometpinball.com/MATRIX-Wires-p/mtxconnect.htm

Here are my pics: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/51#post-3149197

Funny, I've never seen a 31-1695 fully intact (extended plastic piece above hairpin turn) - I just rounded the corners on mine, and had no idea it extended so far. Looked kind of silly to me, and I didn't see a purpose for it, but now I know why. If someone would be so kind as to scan one and post here in the forum so that others would have a template to make their own, it would be appreciated.

hairpinturn.jpg

Is it these?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tilt-graphics-inc-mods/page/7#post-3153943

Also, what other kinds of things will you be posting for sale?

Actually, I found it was better to leave the power on with one of the leads clipped to your tongue . . . the electric shock lets you know when it's working.

I can buy that. I think I should remove the little piece altogether then, since it doesn't really serve any purpose.

I like what you've done better.

Okay everyone, I finally got around to designing and building my own back plastic for the Super Charger sign. Everything went together well, although I probably could have used a half mm adjustment here and there. I designed the graphic to serve as both a sticker DIY and as a template if you want to make your own out of Lexan like I did (sure beats the ugly metal bracket repair some previous owner did on mine). At first I thought that I messed up the bulb alignment because when you face the sign head-on at eye level the bulbs are low in the holes. However, after mounting the sign and assuming the player's position, the bulbs look centered as a result of the viewing angle when playing.

Below are a few pics of the results, and I also posted for download on my page: http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball

For kicks, I also swapped out the frost yellow LED bulb in the Super Charger socket on the sign with a frost green one. Personally, I like it much better and it is going to stay there for awhile.

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Woohoo, just finished my 80ohm woofer upgrade with l-pad and Inductor. Unfortunately it is too late here to test with any loudness since the family is asleep, but I can even tell the difference on low.

So, I now have a like new 6.5" 40 ohm woofer that will go into anyone's stock getaway sound along with brand new front speakers. Let me know if anyone is interested and I'll make you a deal. I plan on putting a sales post up with picks and details when I get time.

Ran out of time tonight, but now have all the parts for my next project - lighting the flipper buttons.

I do like that mod. I just chose to put a UV 3 LED strip on the underside of mine. I like the touch of purple as it reflects off the metal ramp. However, not as cool as yours since it is just always on.

There are some pretty loyal owners here, but I do hope you join the club soon!

Okay guys, I need your help. I was getting ready to work on the pin, and needed to lift the playfield. So, like I usually do, I used a magnet pen to pull the balls out of the trough. Not really thinking, I did it while the machine was on and while I was sticking the magnet down to grab a ball, the pin completely rebooted itself. Things seemed normal at first, but when trying to play the ball will not launch. Turns out, the plunger is no longer getting power (used multi-meter on coil leads while in test mode). All other switch tests work perfectly, it is only the plunger. Any ideas on what my issue could be?

Lesson learned on ejecting balls, and maybe issue was just coincidental, or maybe somehow related to the LED button mod I had just made (clearance was very tight on that side, maybe I shouted something?). Magnet end has 1/4 or larger end that would not fit through slot, and All I did was maybe picked up the trough switch above the plunger tip. I will run through more diagnostics tomorrow. I can obviously track it down using the manual, but where is Q52?

Think there could be an issue with the high current driver board? Long shot, but I came across this in my searching.

http://www.aaarpinball.com/Getaway/getaway.htm

Yeah, it's been a long day and I am tired. I was just thinking back through what I had been doing, all of the new lights were working, and I had been lifting out the playfield a few times and putting it back working on ways to limit the light bleed through from the new button LEDs. I needed to lift the table fully, so I was pulling the balls out of the trough (which I will never do again with a magnet). It had been sitting on for a few minutes before I did this, so my initial thought was cause and effect with the magnet, but quite possibly wrong about that.

Well, I was Googling about how to test for my issue. I'm in bed, so this is a project for tommorrow. Thanks for the advice, as you've given me a good action plan.

All fuses in the pin tested good, and I can see nothing abnormal regarding Q52 or anywhere else in that area.

If I wanted to test the driver board would I put a meter on J107-2 and J127-4, engage solenoid test 12 and see if I get voltage? Or I also see the high current driver sits between, do I need to do something to test that?

Well, still no cause determined to my issue, but it appears that no power is getting to the coil. I still have some things to try based upon everyone's recent feedback, so I'll keep you posted as to my progress.

So, while I am stuck without a plunger, I thought I would at least share my latest mods.

1. Replaced my 4 ohm woofer with 8 ohm, completely rewired speakers, added 80 ohm inverter and L-pad. For those of you who have not done this, it is great as I can now actually hear/feel the bass tones in the game. BTW, the L-pad was a must in order to manually balance the sound the way that was best for my ears.

2. Finished my homemade SC ramp sign and added green frosted LED in place of yellow. I like it much better as it catches my attention more during game play. Thought I would post a pick for others to consider.

3. Followed the guide in this forum and made my own custom LED lit flipper buttons. I used wedge sockets, various Matrix cables, and double red flex heads from Comet Pinball to do the job. Also, wired into start switch so they flash when pin is not in play mode and solid when it is. I'm trying various things (mainly black electrical tape) to help with the apron bleed through, but overall does not seem to be bad. Also, if you do this mod be aware that the spacing is very tight on the plunger side.

4. Finally, I wanted to "pop" the fluorescent orange a little more, so I installed some UV lighting upgrades. I added two Comet UV spotlight bulbs (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/6leduv.htm) to the back section to light up the back ramp and left loop (I previously had white bulbs installed here), I already had a 3 LED strip under my SC sign, and replaced my white frosted 7 LED strip under the apron with a 7 LED UV strip. The main upgrade I did was to add 2 UV spots to the sling gauges. This really makes the orange in center area glow. In my first pic, I have the apron UV lit, but not the 2 spots. In the second pic, I have the spots lit and you can see the difference it makes with the oranges with the Getaway logo, 1st-5th gears, and the tachometer. I'm sure that the UV effect is not for everyone, but I thought I would share in case anyone had ever wondered about it.

5. Since I now had a extra LED strip that I didn't know what to do with, I put it in the GI just behind the lower left targets. Wow, it really lights up the plastic (see the same photo where I have the UV spots - bottom left speed limit sign). Now I am thinking about buying a few more of the Matrix frosted white LED strips to light up the other dark spots in green plastics lit by GI.

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FYI, The eject hole test works. The only other thing in the test not working is the lower diverter test, but I don't know what that is (I don't recall this test ever doing anything). Upper diverter works fine (gate that routes ball to either SC or hairpin).

For GI taps, I used the bayonet socket to matrix connector under the plastics for the LED strip, for the back floods, I again used matrix cables to Y-splitter and clipped onto GI bulb towards back, and similar on slings I just used Y-splitter to link into where I had already used matrix post LEDs for my sling gauges. Also, just used extension and Matrix clips for apron light. I am assuming since running LED should not have any load issues, but when I add them all up it is an additional 9 bulbs (counting a strip as a bulb too) to the GI with 3 or 4 more I want to add.

Look at you with your fancy-pants laser cut metal parts. You think you're better than me?

All in gest, of course. This is a great option and I really dig Pinball Life. I was ready to spring for them, but had the materials I needed to create my own and wanted to burn some time. If/when I ever brake my new one, it will be replaced with the parts you highlighted.

No, it does not. Nor does it register any voltage on the coil leads when test is firing. With the advice provided, I need to determine if PDB is generating the power, and if it is then where the continuity break is.

Geez, now I really have issues. Been turning off and on trying different voltage tests and I accidentally arced something. Turned on just now and heard a buzz. Realized top pop number was engaged (ie coil firing) and not stopping. I smelled burning from the pop bumper after a couple of seconds so turned pin off immediately. Top jet shares J107-2 and is on J127-6 with plunger on J127-4.

So, the positive, I think, I now know that the plunger (Solenoid 12) and the top pop bumper (Sol 13) correspond to Transistors Q52 and Q50, respectively. When I look very closely, all of the transistors are a dark black with legible lettering on them. However, when I look at Q50 and Q52 they are more grayish and I cannot make out the lettering on them, which I guess is bad. Probably plunger stuck open and top pop stuck closed.

I assume my question now is, how do I get this board fixed, as I do not have the knowledge/tools to do the job or to check any other directly related components. I can buy a replacement PDB, but don't want to fork out $300 if I don't have to.

Oops, you are right. Corrected my original post.

That is gorgeous, and I love the red trim. Very nice work!

I can solder, but I have a few concerns: skill to solder something that small, my vision and steadiness of hand, and how to diagnose if anything else is wrong with the board. I may have someone locally who can repair it, but I'll have to call around tomorrow. Don't mind shipping it to a Pinsider who repairs boards depending upon reputation and cost.

I think he wanted to discuss pricing via PM, so you should.

Can you still find the thin red LED strip used in your SC? Searched for it, but no luck.

Do you have a video of this in action? Even if a short one with phone you can email me if not? Would really like to see the effect before I decide to make the effort or not.

Well, please don't everyone hate me, but I've decided to purchase a replacement driver board given all my issues. My decision was not made in haste, but based on 3 primary factors:

1) While I could acquire the parts that I think I needed locally to repair the board, I have never done this kind of detailed work before, have no idea how to test my work, and am concerned that while I may address an obvious issue I could easily overlook other things.

2) I am more than happy to pay a reputable repair shop who takes a holistic approach to board repair. However, based upon the calls I made the shortest repair window offered was maybe 4 weeks (excluding the week or more of shipping back and forth, and even 4 weeks was no guarantee).

3) This is my only pin, and I am already having withdrawal. On top of that we will be having events at my house over the next few weeks, and I don't want an expensive giant paperweight in the game room . . . "Hey everyone, look at my cool new pinball machine. What's that? No, of course you can't play it or even turn it on because it has been broken for weeks, and I have no idea when it will be fixed."

As a result, I purchased a Rotten Dog replacement from Big Daddy who is regionally close to me, so I hope I will have the board by this weekend. On another note, I do value the original board and it is not just going in the trash. After removing it yesterday, it is apparent that multiple repairs have been done on it before, yet it still looks pretty clean and it has held up. My plan is to either send it off for repair, work on the repairs myself as I have time to learn, or sell it "as is" to someone who values it and can restore it to proper working order (FYI, if that is you, please make me an offer).

Man, the more I look at it, the more I love the red. Is that powder coat or some other finish? Did you do it yourself (how) or outsource it (if so, what was approximate cost for legs, side rails, and lockbar if you don't mind sharing)?

He is the first person I called. Told me minimum 4 week turnaround on my board and he actually currently has a 9 week backlog.

I know the parts are relatively cheap, and probably a relatively simple repair for someone with experience/skill repairing boards. On the other hand, I obviously caused more damage when I was trying to diagnose the original issue, so repairs went beyond just the one transistor. Additionally, I don't really like taking advantage of other's time and skills if I don't have too. If you were in my neighborhood, I would have probably just come over to your house, let you do the work, then take you out to lunch or something. While I don't like wasting money any more than the next guy, I am in a position where I can afford a new board. I would be happy to pass my old board onto someone for a nominal price in it's current state or even on contingency that it will be successfully repaired. If not, I will get it fixed at some point and hold on to it as a spare, or like I mentioned use this as a self-learning opportunity and work on repairing it myself.

Awesome collection! BTW, just look at all the storage space you've created under the pins (or are those sub-woofers)?

What? Are you still using a flip-phone or something? Man, you are retro!

You've inspired me to maybe take a run at trying my hand at red vinyl wrap, as it should be fairly easy and inexpensive. While not as awesome as powder coating, would give me an alternative to tracking down someone and negotiating a price since I don't have a "guy" like you do.

Whoa, that's brave . . . he might just lock you in his dungeon!

Found this thread after seeing your red trim, and thought I might give it a whirl. This seems like a job I could do well enough without hurting anything and a nice rainy weekend project. If I like the look well enough in person and it doesn't hold up (or if I suck at wrapping vinyl), then I might consider taking the next step and having it coated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vinyl-wrap-lockdown-bar-rails-etc

Show us how it's done. Have no idea when I might do mine, so would love it if you were trailblazer. My main concern at this point is how to do the legs well.

You an always go BriteCaps (just buy the color lights you want, not the caps): http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3624

Okay, that looks great! Yes, a video would be helpful for certain things such as corners and how to correctly use heat gun with material. Particularly interested in how to do legs, as I think they would be the most challenging.

Finally, would love to see picks of your work when back on the pin.

P.S. I just ordered my red carbon fiber wrap.

Check out my LED spreadsheet for my backbox configuration: http://thezumwaltfamily.com/getawaypinball - backbox LEDs are listed under Flasher section but marked as "(Box)"

I used all Natural flashers as I liked them best for both emergency lights and helicoptors, but did use a various colors for GI (I especially like the way the blue looks with the sky & helicopters and the 4 SMD natural for the headlights). My fear would be that red & blue flashers would make the alternate color emergency light look purple, but I've not tested it myself. For my config, see before (incandescent) and after (LED) pics below. Also, I didn't notice that the passenger side headlight LED was not working until after I took the pic. Was an easy fix (pulled out the leads and put bulb back in), but gives you a good side-by-side comparison vs. old style bulb. Also, I've since messed with various LED configs, but pretty much settled where I started except I did put a red frost behind "The" at top left instead of natural as in the pic. Personally, although I know opinions differ here, I can't stand the warm white bulbs (LED or otherwise) as it just makes things look dingy and dull to me.

before.jpg
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Well, just got mine ordered (I went ahead and got 2 since they are cheap, coming from China, and if one was broken I wanted to have backup). I'm sure they are being sent on a slow boat, so maybe I can have pics posted sometime next year!

No such thing as too bright when it comes to flashers, IMHO. I don't want them just to cast a nominal smooth light on things, rather, I want them to be noticed when they flash. Below is a pic of the Comets I used in backbox, as I think they are perfect as far as lumens go.

As far as gauges, with all due respect he is wrong. I used the 4 SMD matrix post lights and the are perfect. Perfect size, perfect light pattern, perfect lumens. However, they provide little GI lighting, just make upper sling plastics glow (see pic below). The light you do see in that area is caused by the frosted sling GI light along with my translucent rubbers allowing more light to pass.

Regarding the hairpin, I am thinking about lighting from top-back behind hairpin sign with yellow light (flashing possibly) to give it some light and to go along with the caution theme.

For right back corner, a spot cone added to the backboard shining down at an angle works great (see pic below) BTW,you know you can do a image only thread view, right? Makes it real easy to find pics you are looking for.

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You left off the end of my sentence: "IMHO". I have bright 13 smd red super flashers in my slings and love them - http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/13smdg18tower.htm. I would agree that maybe white light would be too bright, but I would encourage anyone converting to or experimenting with LED flashers give a variety of brightness and colors a try to see what your particular preference may be.

Also, I am 6'3" and I find that given my stance when playing that my viewing angle to the pin does not allow for any direct line-of-site flashers. If I were a little taller or a little shorter, it might also change my opinion if I went blind every time one went off.

Finally, have to remember that my only experience is with The Getaway (my only pin), and I like it all lit up. I have friends with multiple pins, and I admit that if I owned certain others that all out brightness would not necessarily be my preference on them.

Your collection and game room are very impressive . . . thanks for sharing the cool pics! I really dig the carpet, and it takes me back to the days of my youth in the early 80's hanging out and arcades and roller rinks.

However, this begs a couple of questions . . . are you married? If so, what does she think about your hobby (is it her hobby too, or does she spend time/money on something else that she likes better)? My wife is awesome, but don't know if I could ever pull off what you have done.

How does one best prepare the surface for wrapping? What are pointers on doing good corners?

Those look great, and I like the darkened donut heaven. Happy I could help.

That's great, thanks.

Here is what it should look like. I had issue earlier with part and discovered the white vinyl part was broken deep in the shaft. I superglued it, and now it kicks the ball about 75% of the time into the tunnel when it hardly ever did before.

image (resized).jpg

I have mine an -6.5, so that I never have to worry about ball drains or even using the flippers.

Dang, it's $48 on e-bay! I think I need more than one pinball machine before I spend this kind of money on a level.

Honestly, I don't know if I still had a local Sears, and even if I do I make it a practice not to go to malls. Up to this point I've just used my iPhone app, so I'll probably just stick with that.

Also, will this do the same thing for 1/2 the price?
https://www.amazon.com/DigiPas-Digital-Electronic-Protractor-accuracy/dp/B001NPJGL0/ref=sr_1_1

Great instruction, I have a couple of follow-ups:
1. Do you heat treat the entire surface after you apply the vinyl or just apply pressure and all is good?
2. When wrapping under and finishing around the bottom/inside edges, do you heat the trimmed edges just apply pressure to make it stick?