(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 13,691 posts
  • 558 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Minnpin65
  • Topic is favorited by 293 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic poll

“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 22 votes
    6%
  • L2 179 votes
    52%
  • L3 11 votes
    3%
  • L5 119 votes
    34%
  • P7 9 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    2%

(Multiple choice - 347 votes by 345 Pinsiders)

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

pasted_image (resized).jpeg
Capture2 (resized).JPG
IMG_5447 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5462 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5467 (resized).jpeg
HS2-Pin2dmd (resized).jpg
thumbnail (70) (resized).jpg
thumbnail (69) (resized).jpg
IMG_8789 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9951 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9944 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9945 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8787 (resized).jpeg
melted lamp 2 (resized).jpg
melted lamp 1 (resized).jpg
IMG_9924 (resized).jpeg

There are 13,691 posts in this topic. You are on page 269 of 274.
#13401 3 months ago

If I recall correctly, if I moved the path NEXT TO, not right in the middle, it would start acting funny. When I made sure it was the center of the chute, it went back to releasing balls correctly. So maybe you just need to rearrange some stuff to have it set up correctly.

Good luck!
Jeff

#13402 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Take them out of the game and put them on a clean sheet of paper, flat on a table. Move one of them towards the other with your fingers and see if they pull the other balls.

No sign that they are magnetised.

I took a video and the post is definitely slow to pop back up. Could be the spring or coil sleeve. Will investigate further and report back.

#13403 3 months ago

Update: added a new 10-135 spring, cleaned assembly and problem solved. New coil sleeve wouldn’t have gone astray if I had one handy.

Didn’t have to qualify multiball to test it. Take glass off, remove balls from trough, turn game on, put balls in the lock position and solenoid will auto fire to return balls to the trough.

Thanks for everyone’s input.

#13404 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I'll have to dig out the materials science textbook, lol.

That is exactly my point. Don't just repeat something someone said like it's a fact, more to that as advice, if you don't actually know anything about it.

#13405 3 months ago
Quoted from Kobaja:

Please elaborate why this is so.
Anyway - just for fun. In case those balls in fact are magnetized - throw them into the coals during your next BBQ. 500-800°C will demagnetize them. Also likely change color, but that's is why I say 2Just for fun"

lol, and yet this is what you contribute? Brutal. Have a nice day, troll.

#13406 3 months ago

Glad it's fixed. I looked at mine and my post is off center.

#13407 3 months ago

Anyone have and extra right ramp with the switches mounted on the other side?? I bought the donut heaven mod from Mr. Tantrum but I never realized that the way my switches are mounted to the ramp, mine won’t work. The mod won’t work. I looked at moving the switches but it looks like there’s some welding involved to hold them to the ramp. Anyone run into the same issue? I love the Donut mod but I can’t use it

IMG_3372 (resized).jpegIMG_3372 (resized).jpeg
#13408 3 months ago

Those wires need to be repathed, which means you’ll have to unsolder them in one way, then reroute them and resolder them another way. I did it on my buddies, but I don’t really have it in my head right now.

Jeff

#13409 3 months ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Anyone have and extra right ramp with the switches mounted on the other side?? I bought the donut heaven mod from Mr. Tantrum but I never realized that the way my switches are mounted to the ramp, mine won’t work. The mod won’t work. I looked at moving the switches but it looks like there’s some welding involved to hold them to the ramp. Anyone run into the same issue? I love the Donut mod but I can’t use it
[quoted image]

Could it be that you just need to remove the bracket, then remove the wireframe, rotate it a full turn, then reinstall everything?

Also, if your switches are mounted with screws to the wireframe then you have the ability to deal with things by unmooring the switches and rerouting them.

#13410 3 months ago

All this talk of gameplay and multiballs and jackpots and I thought I better have a few games myself. Had my second highest score ever at 1.19 billion. Had the Superjackpot up to 175 million and choked at least a few times with legit chances to get it and never did, lol. Did realize that the relighting of the superjackpot by going back up the supercharger caps at 50 loops. The game keeps adding 10 loops each time you score a jackpot to get the next one, but it seems like it won't go higher than 50 loops. Crazy game.

Anyone cracking the highscores on my Getaway is going to need at least a billion to do it...

#13411 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

All this talk of gameplay and multiballs and jackpots and I thought I better have a few games myself. Had my second highest score ever at 1.19 billion. Had the Superjackpot up to 175 million and choked at least a few times with legit chances to get it and never did, lol. Did realize that the relighting of the superjackpot by going back up the supercharger caps at 50 loops. The game keeps adding 10 loops each time you score a jackpot to get the next one, but it seems like it won't go higher than 50 loops. Crazy game.
Anyone cracking the highscores on my Getaway is going to need at least a billion to do it...

#13412 3 months ago

I've seen some of your scores posted before... I am not there but I absolutely have a 1B game in me, I just haven't found it yet.... Out of the regular posters on this thread I think I'm third but only barely.... Just need to put it all together. Lol

What Rev are you on, L2 or l5?

Quoted from AlexRogan84:All this talk of gameplay and multiballs and jackpots and I thought I better have a few games myself. Had my second highest score ever at 1.19 billion. Had the Superjackpot up to 175 million and choked at least a few times with legit chances to get it and never did, lol. Did realize that the relighting of the superjackpot by going back up the supercharger caps at 50 loops. The game keeps adding 10 loops each time you score a jackpot to get the next one, but it seems like it won't go higher than 50 loops. Crazy game.
Anyone cracking the highscores on my Getaway is going to need at least a billion to do it...

#13413 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I've seen some of your scores posted before... I am not there but I absolutely have a 1B game in me, I just haven't found it yet.... Out of the regular posters on this thread I think I'm third but only barely.... Just need to put it all together. Lol
What Rev are you on, L2 or l5?

Thanks. I won't say it's easy, but the game can certainly be taken advantage of and you can put up huge scores with the right approach.

I'm on L-2 with extra hard installed (so no memory on orbits or extra balls unclaimed and whatnot). Tilt bob is pretty normal and outlane posts are either regular or easy (of the 3 positions possible).

I need to get a better rig made up to video a recent game and show some of the strategy. I came up with a way to get through the video mode basically everytime with minimal effort and that's 23+ million each time. 4th gear award mode that is 5 million per shot can be used for close to 100 million if you get good at hitting the supercharger, then letting the ball ski off the left flipper to the right and one timing it back up the ramp. It keeps adding 5 million on subsequent shots and before the timer expires, I've had it to 35 or 40 million per shot.

My usual strategy with multiball is to focus on two balls going. I don't purposely let the 3rd ball drain, but going at it with two is better in my opinion. Basically, after the starting jackpot of 25 million, keep throwing both balls in the supercharger and getting 20 loops knocked off the requirement to light the superjackport and then when they both come down fast together, I try to hit the left flipper on the first one to throw it into the hideout saucer while keeping that left flipper up and so the second ball skis off to the right, which you then throw it back up the ramp or shoot the left orbit to claim the jackpot. There is absolutely an incredible rhythm to it that I just have never found in any other game. Plus you get to claim the helicopter bonus and take a second to catch your breath because now both balls are held while it does the superjackpot animation.

Some games you're on and some games you are not. You mostly have to "practice" on your specific Getaway to see where the shots are and make tiny adjustments so you can hit them reliably.

There are some "cheats" so to speak as well that people don't always realize. For example, you can light the lights to earn locks by hitting the supercharger ramp or saucer hole. Every one of those shots gives you one more of the green or yellow or red lights for lock. This only works the first time you get multiball and not afterwards. Afterwards, you have to hit the targets, which another piece of advice is to usually not aim for them directly. Do other stuff and get them with your miss hits. Most games are brutal when you go after targets directly (like Diner for example). Getting those targets from ramp shots is a great strategy in a league setting where there are often no extra balls available and you need to earn points quicker on what is normally a shorter game.

#13414 3 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

In my getaway the up/down post releases all the locked balls instead of one at a time. Can anybody advise me of a fix or adjustment I can make for this?

Quoted from jrcmlc:

Mine does not ever do one at a time, never has. New polaris balls, or ninjas, whatever junk was in it when I bought it, etc...mine just dumps them all at the same time.

Took me a few more days to get back to playing a game.

My Getaway releases one ball at a time and always has.

Also here’s that picture of my highest score I got the other day too!

IMG_5656 (resized).jpegIMG_5656 (resized).jpeg
#13415 3 months ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Took me a few more days to get back to playing a game.
My Getaway releases one ball at a time and always has.
Also here’s that picture of my highest score I got the other day too!
[quoted image]

Nicely done!

Game looks great. I like seeing games in mostly original condition with only a few subtle, tasteful mods.

Are those art blades? Which ones did you get?

#13416 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Nicely done!
Game looks great. I like seeing games in mostly original condition with only a few subtle, tasteful mods.
Are those art blades? Which ones did you get?

Thanks!

I’ll get back to you on where from.
I have to look it up.

IMG_5006 (resized).jpegIMG_5006 (resized).jpegIMG_5007 (resized).jpegIMG_5007 (resized).jpeg
#13417 3 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Nicely done!
Game looks great. I like seeing games in mostly original condition with only a few subtle, tasteful mods.
Are those art blades? Which ones did you get?

here you go...

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/getaway-pinball-sideblades/

#13418 3 months ago

Those are, or are SUPER similar to the retro and wiz ones

Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Thanks!
I’ll get back to you on where from.
I have to look it up.[quoted image][quoted image]

#13420 3 months ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Anyone have and extra right ramp with the switches mounted on the other side?? I bought the donut heaven mod from Mr. Tantrum but I never realized that the way my switches are mounted to the ramp, mine won’t work.

ScoobaDoo I had my switches mounted like yours but after I shopped it I redirected the switch wiring to the other side of the ramp.
Hope these pictures help

IMG_5169 (resized).jpegIMG_5169 (resized).jpegIMG_5170 (resized).jpegIMG_5170 (resized).jpeg
#13421 3 months ago

Mine is the "ugly" way also, yours looks so much better.

Quoted from 7oxford:ScoobaDoo I had my switches mounted like yours but after I shopped it I redirected the switch wiring to the other side of the ramp.
Hope these pictures help
[quoted image][quoted image]

#13422 3 months ago
Quoted from 7oxford:

ScoobaDoo I had my switches mounted like yours but after I shopped it I redirected the switch wiring to the other side of the ramp.
Hope these pictures help
[quoted image][quoted image]

So just un-solder the wire bundle from the switches and bring them around the other side of the wire form and re-solder?

#13423 3 months ago

I was wrong mine aren't the ugly style they are on the correct side. I'm not sure you need to resolder can't they be unscrewed and the bracket taken off and just moved?

#13424 3 months ago
Quoted from jrcmlc:

I was wrong mine aren't the ugly style they are on the correct side. I'm not sure you need to resolder can't they be unscrewed and the bracket taken off and just moved?

I’ll have to look at it when I get back there. I think I looked at it looked like there was some kind of weld on the brackets.

#13425 3 months ago

I've haven't checked posts on this forum for a few days, and have now been catching up. I read about someone's disappearing post not functioning properly, releasing all 3-balls at the same time to start multiball, instead of one at a time, which is a problem that I also had. I didn't get around to fixing this until the problem morphed into a bigger problem of the disappearing post not going down at all, with no balls being released for multiball, which then required an immediate fix.
I found that the post had a lot of horizontal free play, and that if the post was pushed slightly to one side with my finger, and then pushed down to lower it, that it wouldn't go down. I found that the post was hanging up somewhere (I've forgotten exactly where). I removed the post & coil ass'y and used a 1/8” thick piece of plastic in which I drilled a hole (just barely larger than the post diameter). I glued the piece of plastic onto the end of the coil mounting hardware (with the post going thru the hole) and this greatly reduce the post's horiz. free play. I then reinstalled the post, coil & mounting hardware (with the glued in plastic), and the disappearing post has been working flawlessly for 2-yrs now.

#13426 3 months ago

A picture of some kind with this description would be amaze

Quoted from golfergordy:I've haven't checked posts on this forum for a few days, and have now been catching up. I read about someone's disappearing post not functioning properly, releasing all 3-balls at the same time to start multiball, instead of one at a time, which is a problem that I also had. I didn't get around to fixing this until the problem morphed into a bigger problem of the disappearing post not going down at all, with no balls being released for multiball, which then required an immediate fix.
I found that the post had a lot of horizontal free play, and that if the post was pushed slightly to one side with my finger, and then pushed down to lower it, that it wouldn't go down. I found that the post was hanging up somewhere (I've forgotten exactly where). I removed the post & coil ass'y and used a 1/8” thick piece of plastic in which I drilled a hole (just barely larger than the post diameter). I glued the piece of plastic onto the end of the coil mounting hardware (with the post going thru the hole) and this greatly reduce the post's horiz. free play. I then reinstalled the post, coil & mounting hardware (with the glued in plastic), and the disappearing post has been working flawlessly for 2-yrs now.

#13427 3 months ago

Here are pics regarding my previous post on my fix for the problem with the disappearing post. The piece of interest in the pics is the brown piece of what I called plastic in my previous post, as well as here (but I don't think it's really plastic). In one pic showing the entire disappearing post (DP) coil assembly mounted in its correct position, see the 1/8" thick piece of plastic squeezed between the end of the coil ass'y stop bracket and the underside of the pf. Another pic shows this piece closeup. The other 2-pics show the coil & mounting bracket ass'y removed from the pf underside, and shows the brown square plastic piece which is glued to the outer end of the coil ass'y stop bracket. The hole in the plastic is of smaller diameter than the hole in the stop bracket, and therefore reduces the amount of horizontal wiggle in the post as it travels up & down. Prior to installing this piece of plastic, the DP used to rub against something as it traveled up & down and would often hang up and not travel far enough, but inserting the plastic piece reduced the DP's amount of horizontal wiggle which eliminated the hanging up of the post, and it has worked flawlessly ever since (2-years).

IMG_4698 (resized).jpegIMG_4698 (resized).jpegIMG_4699 (resized).jpegIMG_4699 (resized).jpegIMG_4701 (resized).jpegIMG_4701 (resized).jpegIMG_4703 (resized).jpegIMG_4703 (resized).jpeg
#13428 3 months ago

I just figured out what material I used to drill the hole into for reducing the horizontal wiggling (free play) of the disappearing post, which I called 1/8" thick "plastic" in my previous posts. It is called Link Material, available at The Pinball resource: https://pbresource.com/tools.html I have used this material more than once when fashioning my own fix for various pb related problems.

#13429 3 months ago

Thanks for posting that. If this "fix" was something that very many people needed, I'm sure we (me, MrT, someone) could print those pieces to be an exact fit. I guess let me know if there is a need for that?

#13430 3 months ago

jrcmic, MrT, or anyone who knows the answer to this question:

The Link Material that I used for the fix in the previous post topic, is mat'l that's specifically used for fabricating links fitting in the linkage from coil plungers for actuating flippers, slingshots, etc. There is normal wear in the link which occurs from constant contact with moving steel connecting parts, and I'm wondering if 3D printed links would wear as well as linkage material specifically designed for this purpose. Comments from any 3D printing expert are welcome.

When I first obtained my Getaway pb game, it had a problem with the kicker, which I eventually solved in a similar fashion to how I solved the problem with the disappearing post (read the past few posts). I thought it would be cool to fabricate the necessary fix piece (for the kicker) via 3D printing, which I convinced my cousin to print for me. The kicker has worked flawlessly for more than 3-yrs now, but I haven't removed the coil bracket to check for any wear on the 3D printed fix piece.

#13431 3 months ago

MrT can answer better as he has far more experience but I will say that there are some materials that could be used that would probably be fine for most of those applications, and in this case, I would feel comfortable using run-of-the-mill material as that post doesn't rub on that spacer much I would guess and that's ultra low impact, but that stuff you have there (which I've seen before in links) is no doubt better. I guess what I'm saying is that for this specific thing, if I needed to space that and keep that post captive like that, I would 100% just run off a part without any consideration of if it would work, seems like it would be fine. If I was making something that got rubbed on way more often and/or had impact to it, then I am not sure...I'd probably still do it and see how it worked lol We make functional parts that have to take some loading and some impact out of PETG with 100% infill every day, all day, with no issue.

Quoted from golfergordy:

jrcmic, MrT, or anyone who knows the answer to this question:
The Link Material that I used for the fix in the previous post topic, is mat'l that's specifically used for fabricating links fitting in the linkage from coil plungers for actuating flippers, slingshots, etc. There is normal wear in the link which occurs from constant contact with moving steel connecting parts, and I'm wondering if 3D printed links would wear as well as linkage material specifically designed for this purpose. Comments from any 3D printing expert are welcome.
When I first obtained my Getaway pb game, it had a problem with the kicker, which I eventually solved in a similar fashion to how I solved the problem with the disappearing post (read the past few posts). I thought it would be cool to fabricate the necessary fix piece (for the kicker) via 3D printing, which I convinced my cousin to print for me. The kicker has worked flawlessly for more than 3-yrs now, but I haven't removed the coil bracket to check for any wear on the 3D printed fix piece.

#13432 3 months ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

jrcmic, MrT, or anyone who knows the answer to this question:
The Link Material that I used for the fix in the previous post topic, is mat'l that's specifically used for fabricating links fitting in the linkage from coil plungers for actuating flippers, slingshots, etc. There is normal wear in the link which occurs from constant contact with moving steel connecting parts, and I'm wondering if 3D printed links would wear as well as linkage material specifically designed for this purpose. Comments from any 3D printing expert are welcome.
When I first obtained my Getaway pb game, it had a problem with the kicker, which I eventually solved in a similar fashion to how I solved the problem with the disappearing post (read the past few posts). I thought it would be cool to fabricate the necessary fix piece (for the kicker) via 3D printing, which I convinced my cousin to print for me. The kicker has worked flawlessly for more than 3-yrs now, but I haven't removed the coil bracket to check for any wear on the 3D printed fix piece.

Guess I have to actually read your post now? Hah!

Basically, you are asking if you can 3D print the square shaped shaft guide in you pic? I believe that typical coil links are made from either vinyl (which can be 3D printed on some printers) or fiberboard. Those parts need to be extremely durable, but If I were to attempt to 3D print them for the purpose of flipper linkages, I would probably use carbon fiber PLA (since that is the strongest filament I have).

However, in the case of creating a simple guide for a shaft on a vertical post, I would think that just about any 3D filament should work (i.e. I wouldn't go buying a spool of something special just for this). This part doesn't have any stresses placed on it, and while there will be some minimal friction from the shaft rubbing against the walls of the hole, it would not be enough to degrade the part given the minimal frequency (e.g. no real heat ever generated and since the fit is loose anyway this helps).

All of that to say that I would use whatever the strongest material I had on hand to make it so that I would last as long as possible before I had to go to the pain of replacing it. If you only happen to have PLA, then I think that would work just fine in this application. Just be sure to print your part at 100% infill and do so with the printed part oriented face up/down (e.g. the part should lay flat and not on edge when printed).

#13433 3 months ago

Both jrcmic & Mr_T,
Thanks for your comments.

1 week later
#13434 3 months ago
Quoted from Naiiko:

Here are some pics
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hi, anyone got issues with decals set from planetary ? Got in touch with them but can't get any answer. Looks like they dont much care about client satisfaction. It's now been several weeks my cabinet is standing by.

Thank you all for your support !

#13435 3 months ago

I'm interested in the decal issue.

Can't tell from the pics, what is the issue? Artwork too big?

#13436 3 months ago
Quoted from Barr993:

I'm interested in the decal issue.
Can't tell from the pics, what is the issue? Artwork too big?

1- Cabinet Side decals

Their shape does not allow full coverage of the sides. Here a pic that shows the upper part too short and not parallel (the bottom was placed so that the black fits on the bottom edge of the cabinet)

image (resized).pngimage (resized).png

2- Cabinet front (coin door side)

It is not to scale either. Significantly larger than the cabinet, cut marks out of the box.

image (1) (resized).pngimage (1) (resized).png

image (2) (resized).pngimage (2) (resized).png

Since the "Getaway" sign is large, its bottom needs to be placed on the edge of the box, so that its top does not get covered by the coin door. Once placed this way, the red rectangle around the shooter shaft is not aligned with the shaft plate.

Upper side of the rectangle, with at the back the shaft plate at its position : rectangle is above the plate.

image (3) (resized).pngimage (3) (resized).png

Lower side of the rectangle, with at the back the shaft plate at its position : rectangle end on the plate... And cannot lower the decal otherwise the "Getaway" sign would be cropped.

image (4) (resized).pngimage (4) (resized).png

Not that easy to take pics to show exactly the issue !

#13437 3 months ago
Quoted from Naiiko:

1- Cabinet Side decals
Their shape does not allow full coverage of the sides. Here a pic that shows the upper part too short and not parallel (the bottom was placed so that the black fits on the bottom edge of the cabinet)
[quoted image]
2- Cabinet front (coin door side)
It is not to scale either. Significantly larger than the cabinet, cut marks out of the box.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Since the "Getaway" sign is large, its bottom needs to be placed on the edge of the box, so that its top does not get covered by the coin door. Once placed this way, the red rectangle around the shooter shaft is not aligned with the shaft plate.
Upper side of the rectangle, with at the back the shaft plate at its position : rectangle is above the plate.
[quoted image]
Lower side of the rectangle, with at the back the shaft plate at its position : rectangle end on the plate... And cannot lower the decal otherwise the "Getaway" sign would be cropped.
[quoted image]
Not that easy to take pics to show exactly the issue !

PPS maybe you could help me with this ?

Thanks !

#13438 85 days ago

I'm new to the getaway club and having an issue with the supercharger going a little slower that it should. The magnets and opto's all work in test and i've unplugged and plugged in the cabinet power supply and board connectors multiple times. I have found that the high voltage which is usually around 70v drops to around 59-60v (at the rottendog board test point) while the supercharger is going.
Any help on where to look first?
Thanks!

#13439 85 days ago
Quoted from KenM:

I'm new to the getaway club and having an issue with the supercharger going a little slower that it should. The magnets and opto's all work in test and i've unplugged and plugged in the cabinet power supply and board connectors multiple times. I have found that the high voltage which is usually around 70v drops to around 59-60v (at the rottendog board test point) while the supercharger is going.
Any help on where to look first?
Thanks!

One man's slow is another man's fast. How slow is slow? Go into the test menu and start the supercharger test. Put a ball into the supercharger and see what the test times are. Report back

#13440 85 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

One man's slow is another man's fast. How slow is slow? Go into the test menu and start the supercharger test. Put a ball into the supercharger and see what the test times are. Report back

Haha it was around 150 or so. It made it around but not always fast enough to shoot out in to the wireform on the left once completed.

#13441 85 days ago

time to send it off to extrude hone

#13442 85 days ago
Quoted from KenM:

Haha it was around 150 or so. It made it around but not always fast enough to shoot out in to the wireform on the left once completed.

lol, gotcha. Ok, ya, that's pretty slow.

A couple easy things first that probably aren't the cause... new, slick and shiny ball plus clean the supercharger surfaces that the ball travels on. Make sure the game is level left and right and that the incline is about where it should be (6.5 degrees which is usually to see the edge of the level bubble at the first line).

You said the optos and magnets all test fine. I don't know what the chances of a magnet being plugged into the wrong connector so it's firing off the wrong opto is, but I suppose that could be checked to confirm.

The thing that I've seen have the biggest impact on the speeds or times is when the divertor arm is able to move too much when it's in that open position. Check to see how much play there is in the divertor arm. When the ball is racing around, if it hits into the divertor arm and the divertor arm moves back and forth slightly, it will rob the ball of much of it's energy and speed. You may need to lift up the supercharger and pull out the solenoid and divertor arm to inspect. The parts diagram will show how it is supposed to go together and where the washers need to be.

You can also double check how stable or secure the "centre ball guide" piece is. This is the metal piece on the inside turn of that ramp. Up at the top, it's what the ball follows around when leaving the supercharger and coming back to the wireform and left flipper. That piece has metal tabs which allow it to screw into the metal ramp itself. If the metal tabs are broken off it can move and if it moves, it will mean the backside of the divertor arm won't be resting securely against it, instead it will be able to move, which you don't want because it slows the ball down.

#13443 84 days ago

Joining this club tomorrow! Will be stored at work for a while when I work on the Sopranos machine that's there.

Pics coming soon!

Chris

#13444 84 days ago

Congrats! It's such a fun game. I'm about 3 weeks away from having 2 of them. Lol

#13445 84 days ago

It’s here!!! Works well. Needs LED’s and a cleaning but super happy!

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#13446 84 days ago

Congrats!

Quoted from SilverUnicorn:It’s here!!! Works well. Needs LED’s and a cleaning but super happy! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#13447 83 days ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

It’s here!!! Works well. Needs LED’s and a cleaning but super happy! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club! Great game for sure!

Lots to do and play and enjoy. When you get to it, download the manuals and documentation, among them this service bulletin PDF from PinWiki: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/b/b6/Williams-service-bulletin-book-1992-fall.pdf

It mentions three different ball hang-up brackets that don't look to be installed on your game (the two at the back anyway, I can't see well enough the third one near the shooter lane exit).

Available for sale at Marco or elsewhere:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=01-10903

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10904

One of the members here that posts often makes some nice decals for these brackets as well if you're interested in prettying up the game at some point.

IMG_9542 (resized).JPGIMG_9542 (resized).JPGIMG_9545 (resized).JPGIMG_9545 (resized).JPG
#13448 83 days ago

I see it has a few of my custom decals on it.

If/when you get to the point and you want to add some mods, shoot me a PM for a list of everything available.

#13449 83 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I see it has a few of my custom decals on it.
If/when you get to the point and you want to add some mods, shoot me a PM for a list of everything available.

Yea, those were on it when I got it a couple years ago. I think the previous owner, PinballJAH, got those from you. You made me up a replacement, 3D printed mount piece for my gear shifter/launcher as mine had broken. I like the do not enter symbol on the ball launcher exit flap. Definitely the most clever and the most subtle

#13450 83 days ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

It’s here!!! Works well. Needs LED’s and a cleaning but super happy! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome, enjoy the "new" pin!

Edit: BTW, the decals look great, can only see the front and one side but they still have great color.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
From: $ 399.95
Boards
PinSound
Boards
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
5,000
Machine - For Sale
Gilroy, CA
$ 28.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 209.00
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
Led
From: $ 27.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
Boards
4,025 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
San Diego, CA
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 12.50
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
Plastics
From: $ 11.00
$ 8.50
Lighting - Led
Pinball Haus
Led
4,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Coalinga, CA
$ 329.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
Other
$ 40.00
Electronics
Yorktown Arcade Supply
Electronics
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
Decals
$ 30.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
From: $ 18.00
Tools
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Tools
$ 15.00
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
Plastics
$ 120.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
$ 85.00
Cabinet - Other
Pinball Haus
Other
From: $ 100.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
Toys/Add-ons
There are 13,691 posts in this topic. You are on page 269 of 274.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/269 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.