Anyone have an extra left side cabinet decal they'd be willing to sell? Asking for a friend.

When you start a game and it begins firing the coil for the up/down ramp, go into switch test and see if the "down switch" is activated (it's #54).

You can also enter test mode and use the coil test to lift/lower the ramp and then check for it's appropriate open/closed state using the switch edges test.

If everything checks out and the switch is ok and the ramp lifts/lowers appropriately, it's possible it could be a bug in the game ROM. I think L-1 might have that issue where it randomly lifts/lowers the ramp. My game had that issue when I got it, I only fixed it recently by installing Soren's upgraded ROM.

Looking for some ideas on figuring out an intermittent issue I'm having.

I did a topside tear down of my Getaway recently. Rubber rings and post sleeves, a few new plastics and overall cleaning. It is all back together and working well, except now my ball launching will sometimes clunk into the redlight target of the leftside bank of 3.

And it isn't every time. Most ball one games starting don't do it, but then it often does later in that game either on a second ball or after you've locked some. It basically will come out of the shooter lane and instead of going around the loop, it will hit right into that red target. Which is quite a bit off from making the loop. It isn't just grazing that post sleeve beside the red target, it's a full ball width or more lower.

And since it isn't all the time, it's got me stumped on what is causing it?

If my shooter coil was underpowered some of the time I could see it doing this perhaps. Not sure why it would do it fine some of the time and clunk other times?

I got thinking perhaps my shooter lane exit flap was sticking or hanging up and causing the ball to veer off course. It seems to move freely when you try it with your finger though. That also might explain the intermittent aspect if a locked ball getting released by the disappear post moving was rattling the flap. When a ball gets released from the locking area, you can see the flap jump slightly. It has always done that though. It also doesn't appear to be catching either of the post sleeves beside the flap on it's way out.

Playfield and / or cabinet alignment is a possibility too. Yet wouldn't explain why it doesn't happen all the time. I didn't adjust the leg heights when I was doing my work on the game, but I for sure had the playfield up and down many times and it's position or alignment could have changed slightly.

Cleaning the game made it faster too, yet that's another thing that doesn't make sense when it doesn't happen everytime.

Magnetized balls? I don't think that's an issue or why it would do this.

Could there be an issue with the power supply or boards that would cause varying power to coils mid-game like this? I swear the game has done some weird things since putting it back together, like it gets confused as to which mode it is in. Hard to explain and not sure it isn't just my imagination. Like it gave me two consecutive multiball awards for Burn Rubber shots, which is very unusual. I'm running L-2 for code.

Have you taken a very careful look at the wires that are soldered to the shooter lane solenoid? If one is hanging on by a thread it might explain the problem you are having.

Just got back from the powder coater. Did my legs, leg bolts (heads), rails, lockbar, and backbox hinges in the same Tiger Drylac Bengal Red I recently did my wireframes in (seems to be a perfect match to the Lamborghini red of the era). Hoping to tackle this project tonight and will post photos when done.

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Getaway is back together and lineup is ready to go (I had borrowed leg bots from my other two machines while Getaway's were being powder coated). I really like the red powder coat and glad I did it, as the playfield swap made my previously vinyl coated armor just look cheap. Found a really good powder coater locally, and ended up costing me $150 out the door for the 9 pieces (4 x legs, 2 x rails, 2 x hinges, lockbar) plus 8 bolt heads.

It's nighttime here so photos are a little dark, but I'll take some during the day tomorrow and add to the post.

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Mr_Tantrum... your Getaway Pin looks beautiful!

I'm on the fence as to do the armor in a red tone or black. I've seen both and I like them both

Decisions / Decisions

BTW:
1) That seems like a great price for the powder coating you had done.
2) I've purchased many of your mods for this game. Thanks again!

Kerry

Thank you for the suggestion. I did look closely after you said that and found that while the coil wires looked ok, it did not have the correct coil sleeve. Meaning, no flange and I think it was moving around a little. Intermittently and affecting launcher power. I have the correct sleeve with the flange and I’ll put that in and see how it goes.

When I first obtained my Getaway pb the ball plunging into the pf was erratic, but not quite as bad as yours is. The problem turned out to be that the wrong coil was installed, the coil had sideways free play (wiggle), and the plunger had too much free play. I kept the wrong coil but took action to eliminate the coil wiggle and I shortened the length of the plunger travel, replaced the coil sleeve, and it's been perfect now for the last 1-3/4 yrs.

Thanks. I see in the manual the coil is listed as A-14789. I'll have to double-check mine. I know it isn't new as the paper wrap label is pretty worn looking.

The Marco image for the assembly shows the lugs on the coil in the middle of the assembly, whereas mine or oriented out at the end (the end closest to the plunger tip and the ball). How is yours oriented?

If it were me I'd look into the shooter assembly, coil A-14789, Coil sleeve 03-7067-3, spring 10-128 and the shooter rod (bell armature A-15709). I'd check the armature and coil sleeve first, these can wear and throw everything out of whack . Also, check the alignment of the mounting bracket, it could be loose and moving around or just off kilter...

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Edit: duplicate post

Thanks. I believe you are right that something is physically off kilter. I'm going to focus on exactly where the ball sits waiting to be struck and how the tip of the armature makes contact. Since the end of the armature is cupped, if it doesn't exactly meet the centre of the ball each time, I think it would result in the inconsistent ball launching I am seeing.

I did want to mention this issue though too:

When I reversed my launcher coil so that the lugs were in the middle of the assembly and not out at the end, I realized they were in contact with the top of the leaf switch for the flipper button on that side of the cabinet. Important to note that you won't see these in contact with each other when the playfield is up, only when it is down, so you'll need to look through the coin door while the playfield is down in it's regular position.

When I started the first game after reversing the launcher coil, it must have blown the F102 fuse because that's when the launcher wouldn't fire. But something else starting happening at that exact moment... the ramp starting trying to move even though it was already in the correct position.

So somehow this shorting of the launcher coil lug to the tip of the right flipper button switch was causing havoc with the ramp up/down.

I went through the diagnostics, checking solenoids and switches and all was fine except the launcher wouldn't fire. I replaced the F102 fuse with a new 3A slow blow and everything came back to life. No transistors damaged on the power driver board, nothing wrong with the small high power board underneath the apron, nothing other than fuse 102. And the ramp is fine and not doing that same glitchy thing that was described previously here.

Just wanted to share in case anyone else is having this ramp movement going on and might not realize their launcher coil lugs are touching their flipper button switch tips.

Yes, if the armature does not strike the center of the ball it can cause spin on the ball making it act differently when exiting the shooter lane. If this is random maybe the armature plastic is broken or loose and moving around, I suppose the same is true if the entire mounting bracket is out of alignment or loose. I only say this because it happened when I noticed the spin on the ball but everything seemed fine until I tore it the assembly apart. Additionally my coil sleeve was warn out.

Sometimes it's the little things that throws everything out of whack. Hopefully it's an easy fix for you as well because chasing down these annoying issues can be like running around in circles. Good luck

I think I have a new theory. I thought it was only one of the three balls doing this misaligned launch. Like one specific ball that might have been scuffed or worn or magnetized or something. So I put new balls in and now I've noticed some other pattern. It does the mislaunch each and every time there is a ball locked. Doesn't do it when there are no balls launched. So I think somehow when the ball is locked, it's pushing back on something physically to impede the ball path. Need to look closer at this. Stay tuned...

My kicker coil is oriented with the soldering lugs at the end farthest from the ball. I would think that closest to the ball is best to keep the wires farthest away from the flipper leaf switch.

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EDIT: with the correct quotes

Question- Sometimes when the rear ramp is down and I shoot a right orbit, the ramp doesn’t go up quick enough for the ball to complete the orbit. Instead it hits the back of the ramp and the ball is stopped. Is this normal or do I have to rebuild the ramp to make it quicker?

+1, this happens to me too. I'm interested if there is a remedy.

I was having that problem for a while myself. I haven't been seeing it happen since I switched to Soren's ROM, though. Which ROM is your game running?

Where can I get a copy of the Soren code? Thanks!

I'm not sure. The back box is a little difficult to get to at the moment, but good to know this is a possible solution.

I installed it a few years ago, but I can't remember how I got a copy of it back then.

After a bit of googling, I found a thread here at Pinside where someone said Soren had to take down the patches he made for Williams/Bally games at some point...it would appear they're unavailable at the moment

Hopefully a new ROM (or patch) will eventually surface that eliminates the up/down ramp issues. I know when I was running L-1 (what my game had when I got it) the up/down ramp would frequently have a mind of it's own, raising and lowering for no apparent reason. I chalked up that bug/issue to being the reason for the rejected shots from the right orbit. I don't know if any of the other ROMs address that problem (or if that's even the source of the problem you're having), but it might be worth investigating.

Regarding the up/down ramp not going up fast enough, and consequently trapping the ball beneath it, I was having this problem too (sporadically, about a year ago). I replaced the coil sleeve and spring, and microswitch #18 (p. 2-40 of the Operations Manual), and the ramp now works correctly about 98% of the time. I used a spring which is stronger than the #10-128 spring that's called for. It's a #10-399 spring from Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC. I can't remember for sure, but I may have also added a small dab of grease where moving parts touch each other.

I have the up/down ramp up error. I tried putting in a new coil sleeve. Didn't work. The switch tests ok. Any thoughts? I just shopped my game, didn't even touch the damn ramp. Maybe I did something when I moved it up to clean underneath? I also tried playing a whole game, ramp still popping open and closed.

Take a look at the rollover microswitch #18, which is one thing that controls the ramp. A bad switch might open & close with pf vibration. Another thing that caused unexplained errors for me is that I have periodically had errors show up for game features near the back of the pf - optos, SC magnets, up/down ramp, and diverter. These errors usually have shown up immediately after I did some other work in that general area (like pf cleaning, or work beneath the pf). The solution that sometimes works for me is to grab onto the wire bundles leading to features in that general area and shake them or try to slightly rearrange them somehow. One time I had an error and found that a neighboring insulated wire was wrapped around a soldering lug with a different wire soldered to it, and when I moved the neighboring wire away the problem went away. I think it's an EMI issue that causes some of these errors. I wish I had a better solution to suggest.

Check to see that the lugs of the ball launcher coil are not touching the ends of the flipper button switch on the right side when the playfield is down. Look through the open coin door to see. I replicated the odd ramp up / down behavior by doing this inadvertently the other day.

Beautiful color... Shame it's the wrong lockdown bar for this game

Yeah, I have no idea when in its past life somebody changed out the lockbar. I didn't care enough to spend the money on a new one, and I actually like the flared look a little better than the flat front original. This game is far from original in its "restored" state, so being true to OEM has never been an objective of mine.

BTW, you are the first to say anything about it, so I'm giving your post a well-deserved upvote for the keen observation!

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I’ve bought a game with that system 11 bar before and it always bugged the shit out of me being the only one in the collection with a different bar… Just didn’t Feeeeel right.

I'm envisioning back in the day that some router was working on a couple of games at the same time and when he put them all back together the lockbars got switched, but I'll never know for sure.

Advice please. I recently bought a Getaway and love it. It still has the original L1 rom in it. I recently bought an L2 to replace it with. I went to change it and the L1 seems pretty jammed in there. Bear in mind, I am very new to all this and only ever changed out roms once before on my Ripley's. My question is whether it is worth the risk trying to get the original rom out? Is there enough difference in L2 to make it worthwhile?

There is more than one way to safely pull a chip (ideally don’t use metal tools). Be sure the game is off, regardless. If you have a stiff plastic tool /spurge run it under the chip, and progressively lift up. You should have minimum lead bending this way. That chip has been in the socket for 30 years, so may take some prying.

I *love* the Wiha chip lifter tool--it does a very good job. I usually like to pry one side up slightly, then do the other side, and go back and forth a few times to gently lift out the old chip. Works like a charm! I also find it's a great multi-purpose tool, I've found it's size and shape are surprisingly useful in a number of instances.

Here's the Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26810-5-7-Inch-Precision-Lifter/dp/B00433SJB2

Thanks. I'll try that.

I like the 90 degree angle hook and picks

ebay.com link: itm

Anybody have experience troubleshooting low diverter issues? My supercharger diverter is activating early and kicking the ball out sooner than it's supposed to. I've pinned it down to a low diverter issue. Optos are all registering. I checked and resoldered the low power cable on the solenoid yesterday, which didn't do anything. Any experience with this?

I think your diverter is actually activating late, with the ball hitting it when it's approx. in the halfway closed position, which then sends the ball to the pf back down the SC entrance ramp. It the diverter acted quicker, it would be closed when the ball gets there sending the ball back to the left flipper as it should. I had this problem where the ball came back down the entrance ramp about 10-15% of the time. I changed the coil sleeve, and installed a stronger spring, which improved diverter performance, but the ball still came back down the entrance ramp, but less often (5-10% of there time). I then replaced the lap made opto (it's the opto on the SC approx. above the saucer - the manual, p. 2-40, has errors and shows the wrong location), which again improved the diverter speed so that it doesn't work fast enough only about 2% of the time, which I think is about as good as you can get it.

I actually read through your thread extensively a while back. It's rare, but mine does sometimes close too late and the ball hits it. It's so rare I just consider it an anomaly. My issue tho is different and better seen in the two videos I posted in a help thread I made. Check it out, let me know what you think...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-supercharger-kicking-ball-out-early

I'm hoping someone can help me with some part measurements for my HS2 scratch build. This is the last piece I need to complete the machine.

I'm looking for dimensions for the ball stop behind the saucer/hole under the "mountain". I need the lengths of each of the straight sections of the bent part as well as the welded "cap". I also need the thickness of the metal and the width of the part (should be the same for both pieces). The sizes and positions of the holes would also be very helpful. I've numbered the measurements I need in the included pic.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

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I think the pics show everything you asked for. The mat'l is stainless steel, thickness of 1/16", micrometer read .060".

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Here's one more pic that you might want.

IMG_4126 (resized).jpgedit: I guess this pic shows info that was also shown in previous post.

golfergordy THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! I'm gonna have to put your name on this thing some where when it is finished. These are exactly what I need!

Please put my name on the underside of a leg leveler.

I haven’t posted in a long time. But I’m back, and hope to visit more often. I got the highest score on Getaway since I got it 6 years ago. I’m running L-5 Chip I believe. I only had one extra ball. The big run came in the Supercharger 4 th gear mode. I was able too keep hitting the supercharger, like twenty or thirty times, by making a “ski pass” from the left in lane to the right flipper.

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Beautiful job on all three machines, Mr. Tantrum.

These look great, Tantrum. When I was last in UPS, they have a large format printer. I suppose it would then be possible to print those at UPS on glossy paper, and then use double stick tape? to adhere them, maybe?

Wow, impressive. I got over 1 billion once and thought that was pretty good. 3 billion? Yikes.

Hitting the supercharger in 4th gear mode 20 or 30 times... may I ask how long your timer is on that mode? Mine seems way too short to hit it more than about 6-7 times. I have gotten to 35 million on the last shot up just as the timer runs out, but that's about it.

Maybe it went into a glitch with my L-5 rom code. Normally it’s 30 seconds. I don’t know but maybe it you hit the SuperCharger continuously like I did maybe 10 times in a row it just keeps building. I couldn’t pay attention to the DMD for the score. It’s almost like I took the glass off, but I wouldn’t do that

Possibly, depending on the image quality of the printer and types of paper it can handle. Honestly, knowing the prices of the UPS store, you might be better off just buying ready-made ones or I know a professional printer I can refer you to if you supply him the files. I actually printed them myself on my Epson photo printer using Epson ultra gloss photo paper. that will feed long paper through it. I then coated with clear gloss vinyl and backed with an adhesive sheet, but you could also just use thin double-sided tape around all edges and some in middle to make sure the blades lay flat against the cabinet.