FYI, here is what I use for cabinet touchups (quart can purchased at Lowe's).
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I'm having an issue but before I detail it can someone please post a closeup of their center target bank from the underside. I need to be able to clearly see the wiring. I've looked through the photos I have from others prior to the playfield swap, but I can't find any closeups of this area. Attached is my current configuration.

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It looks like you have the white wires connected to the wrong side of the diode. Or you have the diodes reversed. Just can't from the pic. I would need to see a switch from the side to see which blades have the contacts. But you have the correct wires on the switches for the middle RED/YELLOW/GREEN targets.

this any help?

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Also quick question, but do any of you guys use a bunch of threadlocker on your supercharger diverter? I had to hit the base with a torch and crank super hard to break the set screws on mine.

Here's another if you need it.

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All fixed. I started a support thread late this afternoon when I hadn't seen any posts yet (figured most weren't home from work for the day), and turned out Grumpy had the solution (white wires to soldered to wrong side of diodes). Thank you to everyone for the photos and support. I've now worked out all of the bugs from the playfield swap, and game is 100% operational. Just played a couple of games before I went to bed, and it plays great!

Yikes, no such issue for me.

Well, my Getaway playfield swap is complete, everything is 100% operational, and most all of my mods and custom lighting have been installed (I may or may not do a couple of more things later). This was quite the experience, and while I initially was going to undertake the swap on my own (would have been my first), due to time and space constraints I solicited a few local pinball restorers and am extremely pleased with the gentleman that did the work. Before I share photos, I wanted to give credit to a few people.

First, to those who encouraged me that I could do the project and shared their experiences with me and helpful tips in advance and during the process:
- Carry Hardy | seeing his Getaway restoration at TPF last year and talking to him is what planted the idea in my brain in the first place. Also, it was his idea to use the orange lower target banks which inspired my to highlight orange with my rings/rubbers.
- Chris Hutchison (aka @high_end_pins) | Chris is a world-class pinball restorer and I sincerely appreciate him taking the time to answer some of my questions and giving me guidance.
- Kobaja | He had done his Getaway playfield/restoration recently and his documentation was exemplary. Following his guidance was extremely helpful throughout the process.

The playfield itself & parts
- Buthamburg Pinball | The quality of this playfield rivals any I've ever seen - it's beautiful. Their team was extremely helpful during the purchasing process, shipping was fast from Germany, and the playfield arrived in perfect condition.
- North Texas Powder Coating | A local shop who did my two wireframes & apron wire. The Bengal Red turned out to be really nice and even perfectly matches my red Lambo diecast model. I'm thinking about getting a quote from them to do my legs, side rails, and lockbar in the same color.
- Pinball Suppliers | Marco Specialties, Pinball Life, Planetary Pinball, Titan Pinball, and probably a couple of others I'm not recalling right now.

The actual swap:
- PantherCityPins | I cannot say enough positive things about Rick. I met Rick a couple of years ago, when he purchased some of my mods and came over to my house to pick them up. Turns out we live about 20 minutes apart, and I quickly learned just how much into pinball Rick is. As a hobby (he has a full-time career outside of pinball) he has refurbished a multitude of pins for himself and for customers. After the other local restorers I know just couldn't fit me in, I was talking to Rick and he said that he would be willing to take on the project. He helped me plan the swap (e.g. all of the parts I needed to buy in advance), and even came over to remove the playfield himself as well as bringing the new playfield back and installing it. Long story short, what I thought was going to take at least a month turned out to be just two weeks. Rick allowed me to come over to his shop whenever I wanted to not only observe, but to also help with the playfield swap (I was responsible for maybe 0.1% of the work that was done) . He was extremely knowledgeable, meticulous, open and honest about everything, and communicated with me almost daily on the progress. He also wasn't happy until he made sure the game was working 100%, and helped me on the few issues that needed to be addressed post-install. If you have a pin project you need done, I would highly encourage you to contact PantherCityPins to see if he can help.

My personal contributions (excluding a variety of third party mods I kept from my original playfield)
- 3D Donut Heaven
- 3D Mountain
- 3D Traffic Light
- 3D flipper toppers
- Custom designed & produced plastics
- Custom designed & produced art blades
- Lots of custom additional lighting | under plastics, spotlights, and other places
- Custom decals

With credit given where due (along with several others responding to my posts along the way), I thought I would share photos of the results. You'll see that I made a few alternate choices from the OEM machine, as I wanted it to be someone personalized to my taste (I don't plan on ever letting this one go - besides, I have way more into it than what I could ever sell it for). If you see anything you have questions about, please don't hesitate to post your questions.

Overhead shots
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Playfield closeups
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Custom gauges/plastics & lighting
IMG_8361 (resized).JPG
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Finally, I figured now was a good time to breakout my Steve Ritchie signed apron card
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Looks beautiful bro... I actually thought you were doing this yourself all this time! I remember telling you way back, that Getaway would be the last swap I would want to do! So i've been thinking all this time... "maybe this swap isn't as bad as I thought, a first-timer knocked it out in 2 weeks!".
Now it all makes sense!

It’s not an impossible swap for sure. A first timer could do it but I’d recommend LOTS of pictures and notes along the way. Luckily Chris’ machine was fully working prior to the swap so there wasn’t too much needed except moving things over and replacing wear items like stand up targets (I only soldered in one bank backwards DOH).

The game came out beautiful and I’m super happy for Chris, I know he loves that game!

Mr_Tantrum,
If that was my game I would be afraid to play it for fear of making it again looking used, and I'd be even more afraid to let anyone else play it - it belongs in a museum. Great work!
I can verify that the apron card's Steve Ritchie signature is a genuine likeness (a photo, or maybe even original), because it looks very close to Ritchie's signature on the translite of my Getaway. I verified my Ritchie signature's authenticity with Ritchie himself at the 2021 Chicago Pinball Expo. I briefly spoke to Ritchie again (at the JJP factory tour) during the 2022 Chicago Pinball Expo. Ritchie is a pinball icon - I told him his The Getaway game was fantastic.

Thanks, but it was made to be played, and I’m loving it more than ever now!

I was the one that had him sign the card at TPF last year. Kind of funny because I’m not one to have people sign things, but a pinball friend asked me if I would have Steve sign something for him, so I figured I might as well have him sign a card for me while I was at it. Also, few things about that interaction. First, I complemented him on his watch and he appreciated that. He then looked at the card and commented how nice it was, asked if I made it, and when I told him I did he complemented me. Finally, I asked him to sign his name and the write “The Kingpin” below, and at first he didn’t understand. I told him “You know, “KINGPIN” from the license plate on the Getaway backglass”. That jogged his memory, he cracked a little smile, and signed my card.

Looking good Mr. Tantrum! Congrats on the successful swap!

Issue with my getaway.

When entering the supercharger is starts spinning around till eg 3 million and than it stops counting but continues to spin around for a round or 3 to finally stop and drop down thru the entry ramp and not via the diverter...

Max I Had it count for was 8 MIllion.

Sometimes it also spins around without the million (on display) counting... but adding values on regular score.

Am on rom version L5.

The shutoff/reset frequency with my Getaway is becoming annoying to the point that I now intend to do something about it (when it happened one time every 3-mos. or so it was tolerable).

After reading about the problem and possible solutions, it seems like the best solution is to install the Daughter board from KAHR.US. It's sounds easy, cheap, and should have good durability. Some purists, however, believe that one should find exactly why the 5V circuit experienced a voltage drop in the first place, and fix the problem so that the circuit again works as the designer intended.

I have done some testing, and find that the voltage on the 5V circuit (when resetting isn't happening) is as follows:
At the test point on the Power Driver Bd (PDB) it's 5.01v; at J114 where the circuit leaves the PDB it's 4.95v; going into the CPU board at J210 it's 4.94V (all readings with the game turned on and the START button pushed). In the 12V circuit entering the CPU board @ J210 it's 11.87v. I suspect that when the game is resetting, that the voltages are lower than what I measured above.

I'm wondering how many Getaway owners out there have had this reset problem, what your solution was, and are you satisfied with your solution. I also would appreciate any other comments or opinions that you may have on this subject.

Thanks

I had a burnt connector on one of the molex that caused resets. This was on the left side of the driver board. I would make sure your molex connections are solid.

I had reset issues, not just the normal replace caps and you're good, it was something I could not figure out so I emailed Chris Hibler (he does awesome board work and is very helpful for DIY) and sent him my board. Chris had repaired other boards for me in the past and if you want to fix the issue then it may be worth a conversation with Chris. Here is a video of my board and the issues, either way, good luck!

Purist here. If you don't fix the underlying issue it will cause other problems in the future. Those will interfere with the workarounds and make troubleshooting really annoying.

My Getaway only has the reset problem approx. 1 time per month. Finding an intermittent problem will be very difficult. I think I'm better off waiting until the problem gets worse, which should then be easier to identify. If I install the daughter board, it may prevent the resets from occurring while waiting for whatever the problem is to get worse.

I'm not sure that's the best way to go but it's your machine and money. You could reach out to Chris, you can find him here; ChrisHibler

https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/chrishibler

There's more to my story than I've already told:
When I bought The Getaway pb game (1-1/2 yrs ago), the game had the shutoff/restart problem almost constantly, and the seller gave me a rottendog Power Driver Board (PDB) that worked fine with no restarts, along with the original PDB with the restart problem. The seller had previously sent out the orig. board to an "expert" for checking out and repair, and the "expert" returned it and said the board checked out fine with no repair necessary, and that the shutoff/restart problem must be caused by something else other than a problem in the orig. PDB. Well, the rottendog board worked fine for 6-mos. before the first restart occurred, and restarts have occurred approx. once every 3-mos. ever since. When the restart problem occurs, you can't play the game the rest of the day, but the next day everything works fine again. As stated in my post #12565, the voltages I checked a few days ago looked acceptable (when restart was not occurring). I think I'll have to wait for the next occurrence of shutoff/restarting and check the same locations again and see what voltage readings I get. I hate intermittent problems!

1) I looked up Chris Hibler's website and see his charge is $90 to check out a board. I'm reluctant to send out a board and spend $90 just to hear an "expert" say that the board checks out ok (like already happened with the orig. PDB).

2) If the orig. PDB checked out ok with the expert's comment that the problem lies elsewhere than on the PDB, why did the replacement rottendog board make the game work ok consistently for the first 6-mos.? I don't trust the "experts"

I have visually inspected the PDB and the connections to it for anything obvious (like burn marks) and all looks ok. Considering all the above, I think that fixing the problem could be a long, drawn-out, expensive exercise in replacing parts until the problem no longer occurs (I'm no expert with this kind of problem and only have a simple multi-meter to check things out). This is why I'm considering installing the daughter board and seeing if the restart problem occurs again (this could take several months) and if it does occur, try to develop a plan to attack the problem. At least the daughter board is cheaper than sending out a board to an "expert".

Just sayin here - Chris will take pm for free and discuss. He will help you just because. If it makes sense to send to him for work you WILL be 100% satisfied. He’s one of the good ones in this hobby and not just out to make a buck. Why not message him and ask? I expect if your board needs work you’d be happy to pay someone with experience no?

It's your call but, I'd gladly pay $90 to have someone like Chris, who I trust and have dealt with multiple times, check a board for issues. As for Rottendog, I can only speak on my experience and say I had issues with his new driver board and returned it, not to imply anything other than stuff can happen with these boards. Like my PinLed driver board which was supposed to be "new tech" then crapped out (Chris fixed that one too).

A visual inspection at something this complex does not tell you the full story.

1000% Chris will respond to PM's and help you as much as he can without you sending him your board or money and with the value on these machines being through the roof I would say band aids are for operators who need the pin to earn money and not home use owners. Personally I'd rather resolve the issue and move on but it's your machine and money

You have tried two boards in the game and still have a problem. The rottendog board, depending on the version, is less likely to be having 5volt reset issues than the original wpc board. This does suggest that the issue may not lie with either board.
Have you tried reseating all the connectors. Just putting in the new board could have temporarily fixed a connector problem.
Does the game have a lot of mods. Could be a 12 volt reset problem.

https://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index3.htm

You can read up here on reset issues and things to try before you get too far into the weeds. Good luck!

Reset issues are most commonly due to header and connector issues.

It is much less common for them to be caused by BR2 (bridge rectifier) or C5 (electrolytic radial snap-in capacitor) or Q1 (LM323K linear voltage regulator). If it is caused by one of those components, it is usually from someone (with not enough board work experience) previously replacing them.

ChrisHibler is a 1000% standup repair technician.

• Concerned? Contact him.
• Don't want to contact him? View his YouTube channel where he documents repairs performed for clients. Narrow down your viewing to WPC89 driver boards to allay your concerns. There are many of these videos for your viewing pleasure.

Take this from someone who is not an "expert" but rather a DumbAss.

Guys, he's resistant to advice. He mentioned he has a problem, asked for opinions and also specified which opinions he wants and doesn't want. He directly stereotypes those pointing in the difficult but correct direction as purists and then comes up with more reasons why his approach is best.

No point trying to convince him. He knows what is right and he knows what is easy and he made his choice.
I'm convinced he will put in a daughter board and in a few weeks come around with a 'told you it would work' type of post. Or there will be other issues which then need more advice.

I agree with you. I post to provide opinions with evidence based reasoning for others who may be reading (lurking) and for future readers who may want to make their own decisions based on more information provided.

The other issues encountered will be due to installation and usage of the pass through regulator board. There are numerous posts on this topic through many of the forum threads. There are at least two passionate views on the board. There are many views in between those passionate extremes. I'll state (again) here what I state elsewhere that this board will "rob Peter to pay Paul". Nothing in the system is "free". This board robs from the +12VR to provide for the +5VR on the CPU board. If the +12VR is already borderline then this board will not help. It could result in even more "resets" than without it.

The output of the LM7812 (or L7812CV) is often higher than +12VDC. At +11.87VDC, I would be concerned that it's on the low side and that some stress on the switch matrix (a lot of switches closed simultaneously) could draw enough current to cause the +12VR to drop to a level where the +5V regulator on the pass through board is unable to deliver +5VDC - resulting in a reset from the watchdog. In this case, the system's +5VR is more stable than the pass through board's +5VR generated from the +12VR supply.

Then again, there may be nothing wrong with the +11.87VDC output and the LM7812 might be able to easily sustain enough output for the +5V regulator on the pass through board. It all depends on momentary peak current draw when the system is operating.

Take this from someone who is not an "expert" but rather a DumbAss.

Just my 2 cents on the topic:

1 - I have Rottendog boards in my Getaway and had them in my previously owned DE Jurassic Park. In both cases, I had components go out on the boards that I had to replace. While great boards and while I'm also incredibly appreciative the boards were available when I needed them, electronics fail for whatever reason regardless of the product manufacturer.

2 - Chris Hibler is probably the overall best board repairer we have in this hobby. His skill and experienced coupled with his open communication and reasonable pricing make him the go-to for me (he has repaired boards for me in the past and taken boards to recycle that I no longer wanted). I'm not making any judgement towards any other person who repairs boards, but Mr. Hibler is a genuine "expert".

3 - Intermittent issues are sometimes very difficult to track down and the issue may not lie where you think it is. I used to have a term for this type of thing referring to such events as being "consistently inconsistent". All I can say is you should be taking detailed notes of the incident, log the actions you take and what effect they have (if any), and if you want to isolate and resolve the issue on your own then provide all details to the group in a concise organized manner.

Over the last few years, I've had some really tough issues with a couple of my games that no one else had seemed to ever experience (resolving my unique DE JP T-Rex issues took several weeks). However, over time when providing meticulous details to the group and following suggestions then reporting back in detail, in every case I was eventually able to determine and resolve the core issues with the support of Pinside.

First of all, I thank every one of you who have commented in response to my posts #12565 & #12569 on the shutoff/reset issue. Next I'll summarize the comments/suggestions that have been made.
*Check for burnt connectors
*Utilize Chris Hibler for board consultation/work
*Problem may be elsewhere and not in the PDB
*Try reseating connectors
*Could be a 12V reset problem
*Might be too many mods
*Do more online reading on the reset issue
*LM7812 might be the problem
*Provide more information in "meticulous detail"

My comments to the above:
1) The intent of my original post on this subject was to get opinions on the suitability of using the KAHR.com Daughter Board. No one on this forum has recommended using it, and since the collective experience of the responders is far greater of mine in this hobby (2-yrs), I'm putting that option way down on my list of possibilities. I will point out, however, that several months ago I did make a post related to the reset problem, and someone did mention a daughter board (I'm not gonna look that post up to see who mentioned it).
2) Now that Chris Hibler has received an almost unanimous recommendation, using him as an "expert" is now high on my list. I noticed on his website, however, that he has a 90-day turnover (a very busy guy). Also, I think I should have more detailed data before contacting him - such as voltage readings while the game is experiencing resetting, and not only when the game plays normal. When resetting did occur one time, I noticed that hitting both flipper buttons at the same time seemed to be the straw that broke the camel's back, and the game immediately shut off.
3) The comment that there might be a problem in the 12V circuit rang a bell. Maybe a year ago the mars light on top of the back box had a problem - the rotating reflector motor struggled to start up (you could hear some vibration during startup) and after 1-2 seconds it usually then started up and rotated the reflector as normal, but sometimes wouldn't rotate the reflector at all. Both the motor and bulb in the ass'y are on the same 12V circuit, so I replaced the original bulb with an LED (which draws much less current) which fixed the problem and the motor has worked great ever since.
4) Regarding installed mods - I've got Mr_Tantrum's Donut Heaven and Mountain (with lighting), and a lighted Freeway Entrance sign above the left to right long loop entrance. All of these connect to lighting circuits below the pf.

I'll be preparing a list of pertinent voltage readings that I will periodically make and record, and when the next reset occurs, take readings again at that time, and hopefully something will stick out like a sore thumb. Also, inspecting & checking for poor wiring connections all over might reveal something.

Thanks again for all your comments.

While Chris is the "go to" for board repair (yes, he always has a backlog), I would not want to discourage you from attempting to isolate the issue yourself. When I first got into pinball, I didn't know much about electronics or testing board components, etc. so I typically would either have a board repaired or replaced. Once I got a nice multi-meter and read up on how to test various board components and read schematics a little, I was able to track down some faulty parts on a couple of boards and did the replacements successfully myself.

Wiring is one thing, but if you know where the problem is occurring you can typically trace it back to a specific location on the board via the schematics in the manual. Personally, I would suggest starting at the source and then working downstream if source is good. However, I still consider myself the novice when it comes to electronics, so take my advice accordingly.

Another suggestion for electronic issues is to open a new thread just for the issue. While there are plenty of knowledgable owners in this thread, you are missing out on the majority of Pinsiders seeing your posts. Getaway is a WPC 89 pin, and there are many others. There are plenty of owners who know these machines extremely well and maybe can respond to your issue even if they don't own a Getaway.

Also, if you are not familiar with it, PinWIKI is a great information resource. Here is the link to the WPC section: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC

As far as my mods go, they just connect to the GI circuit and are very low load since they all use LEDs. BTW, do you have LEDs in your pin or incandescent bulbs (the latter draw significantly more power)?

Burned headers/connectors and tarnished headers/connectors are not the same thing. While it is common to have burned GI headers/connectors, it is not common to have burned digital logic headers/connectors. They are more often tarnished.

Reseating the connector is often enough to make the "WPC reset" issue go away (for an unknown amount of time). If you insert a pass through regulator board you are still reseating the connector and installing a "new" header/connector into the system. This disturbs the systems and can yield inconsistent results (i.e. the experiment is not consistently reversible and you don't have a control). The fact that it now works may lead you to conclude that the pass through regulator board solved the problem. If you had simply reseated the connectors, that may have solved the problem as well. You don't have a valid, repeatable experiment with a valid control.

It is also common for owners to replace the driver board (an expensive way to replace the header) but forget to replace the connector. This replaces only half of the mating surfaces. The improvement is 50%, not 100%. It is always advised to replace both mating surfaces, not one.

Watch some of Chris' WPC89 driver board videos. You'll get an idea of what he does and what information he will need. Like all reputable repair technicians, he will test all the power and logic functionality of the driver board. It will not be under heavy load though. It will also not test any other part of the system (i.e. the rest of your machine and its wiring). If the header at J210 is tarnished as well as the connector, replacing J114 with a brand new header may still result in "WPC resets". The +5V digital logic supply is a global (backbox-wide) system. It is NOT just the driver board that generates the supply but also the distribution of the supply.

Take this from someone who is not an "expert" but rather a DumbAss.

Whatcha doin with the old one?

Agreed repair and replace both pins and molex connectors.

Finding the source on resets isn't cut and dry, it will be a series of tests, ruling things out as you go but I will say when it comes to integrated circuit boards it can be overwhelming if you do not know what you're doing. This could be as simple as the board not finding ground or poor current from your receptacle. I think a board rehab is always a good thing to do with these old, outdated and abused compenets.

Perhaps it's 90 days or perhaps it's not, that's what his website lists, he could have only a few boards in his que, PM him here on Pinside and talk to him.

I doubt a crispy J120 would cause a reset, you may have lights out on your GI, like I did on mine until I rebuilt the molex and pins but I didn't have reset issues at that time. The old incandescent bulbs cooked many of the molex connectors back in the day.

I like your quote and I feel you, the more I learn I realize the less I knew...

I want to set the record straight. I wrote J210 not J120. They are completely different headers for completely different purposes.

• J120 is a GI header on the driver board supplying (nominal) +6.3VAC in FIVE separate strings controlled by a 4Q triac.
• J210 is a digital power header on the CPU board supplying +12VDC (regulated), +5VDC (regulated) and GND for digital logic.

WPC header nomenclature allows for this particular header confusion.

Ah, lol well that's a different story, my bad

My plan is to make wall art out of it (maybe even illuminate the inserts), but that's a project for a future time.

Hey everyone! I picked up a Getaway as my 2nd pin recently (Mousin' Around was first)! Happy to be in the club! I made a video on my YouTube channel talking about the buying experience, condition of the machine, mods, etc...check it out if interested!

Again - thanks for all your comments on my reset issue.

I received and intend to follow the information I originally was looking for, which is DON'T USE THE DAUGHTER BOARD. Also, the next best info. received from this forum seems to be to utilize Chris Hibler. I have written down all the other suggestions received so I can frequently refer to them.

1-3/4 yrs ago I read the pinwiki section on WPC game resets, and over 2-yrs ago I replaced all the wire terminations in the multi-wire connectors (but didn't replace any of the header pins) in a 1978 Bally pin that solved 3 different problems, so I'm well familiar with what wire connection problems can occur in 30+ year old pins. 2-yrs ago I also isolated problems to, and replaced 3 transistors, again in two-1978 pins I had, so I've had some experience with reading schematics and soldering. I must say, however, that reading the schematic drwgs on the 1978 pins was much easier than trying to read the schematic drwgs for The Getaway.

Since my replacement rottendog PDB doesn't cause resets 99% of the time, but the orig. Getaway PDB (still in my possession) caused them frequently, it makes sense to me to fix the problem with the orig. board first, and only then work on solving the problem when the rottendog board is installed. Then, if I must send one (or both) of the boards to C. Hibler, at least I'll still be able to play my Getaway pb (with the working board installed) while waiting 90-days for Hibler to do his repair. It was always my intent to get the orig. board repaired so that I would have 2 working PDB's (one as a spare). If anything interesting comes up while problem solving, I'll share. Thanks again.

Regarding your lock. When in a single player game and starting multiball, does your lock let all 3 balls out at once, or is there few-second pause between each ball release?

No offense but I think you're over thinking this situation. PM Chris, let him know what's going on, if you both feel having him work on the board is the right course of action then send him your original, you already have a replacement installed so you can continue to play your game and the time in his que is irrelevant.

Great choice. I may be partial, but I think everyone with more than one pin needs to have a Getaway in their collections. Fun, fast, easy rules, but still challenging. Definitely keeps you coming back for more.

Regarding your video:
- Ball should launch, perform a full lefthand loop (not feed into the pop bumpers), and return to the right flipper (you are correct in that the culprit is typically the metal rail)
- The lean is important to have correct or the ball looping won't hit the upper flipper or post just below it and not return to the right flipper
- Check switches occurs when a particular switch has not been tripped over a period of time. If you've not locked a second or third ball in several games, it is common to get a switch error for one of those. Go into test mode, switch edges, and make sure those switches register consistently and also make sure they are sticking out far enough into the wireframe so that a ball actually trips them.
- With the machine off and playfield lifted manually move the ball lock rod up and down to make sure nothing sticks or catches.
- If you upgrade to LED's DO NOT BUY A KIT. There is plenty of documentation in this thread from myself and others over custom LED configurations. Also, p-l-e-a-s-e use white (cool or warm) for all GI under the plastics to highlight the art instead of washing it out with color LEDs.

Also, what version of ROM are you running?

You mention some modest modding, PM me if you have any questions regarding the mods I offer (I do the 3D Donut Heaven as well as the Krispy Kreme themed Donut Heave decal), 3D mountain, etc.

Happens all at once. As I understand it is not supposed to happen and perhaps further indicates a worn out spring?

Thanks! So far it absolutely has kept me coming back. Looking at doing LEDs next. I saw your pics above and it appears you have LEDs. Did you go with a kit or pick the bulbs out individually as you wanted? Did you go with Comet?

Custom LED selection. Here is my original post you can use as a starting place, but I've actually done a variety of changes over time. I highly recommend Comet for all LEDs. I've purchased lighting from them exclusively for all of my pins, pins I've done for friends, and for all of the mods with lighting that I offer.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/50#post-3145565

BTW, use the search function in the thread and search for LED and either leave the pinsider name blank or put my name in if you want to filter and see all of my posts on the subject.

The reason I ask about firmware is that most of us Getaway owners run L2. L1 (possibly) and L5 (certainly) have a bug where multiple balls can/will be released from ball lock during multi-player.

Sorry, apparently I didn't see your full comment when I first read through. Anyway, I will run through the switch edge test to test out the multiball post. Also you're correct about the plunge and mine does go all the way around the the right flipper, I mispoke in the video.

I am running L1 according to the start-up. I read some stuff about the different software revs and saw L2 was the most popular, but not sure I ever read why.

Noted on the LED kit. Your list will be super helpful. My manual only lists 5 bulbs for GI (2 #44s and 3 #555s). That seems like not very many. Am I missing something? Also I'm thinking I want to do cool/natural instead of warm lights. I notice you bounced back and forth for different inserts. What was the thinking there? Just some differentiation?

- See ROM feature list here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin?tq=l2&tu=#postbox

- I would highly recommend upgrading to L2. I buy my ROMs from here: https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/high-speed-ii-the-getaway-pinball-cpu-rom-l-5-u6-bally-williams-eprom

- If you hapeen to have two-state flippers (very few do, and only in later builds) then L5 is required for the two-state right side to function (i.e. push flipper button in partially and the upper right fires, push it in fully and the lower flipper fires).

- I'm all cool/natural white in my Getaway GI, and it really makes the art pop more and seems brighter overall. Not exactly sure what you are referring to about the 5 bulbs for GI, but that is wrong.

- For inserts, I now prefer the 4 SMD non-ghosting no dome LED's from Comet. They are super bright which I like, so if you want to back off a little go with their single SMD bulbs. I typically match bulbs to insert colors with a few exceptions (cool white for white, warm white for orange, etc.) If you start making your list and have specific questions on my bulb & color choices, then PM me.

Awesome. Really appreciate the info here. I printed your list off and going to run through it tonight. I'll almost certainly need to send you a PM. Haha. Might be helpful to do that to discuss mods anyway. Talk soon and thanks again.

Wanted to share my latest Getaway mod with the group. I have a red dish in the tunnel (which I think is standard), but I added two additional sockets with dual head Comet flex bulbs and then attached them to the corresponding twist socket using Comet's Matrix twist socket replacements. This setup gives the game a little more interactive feel as it relates to the tunnel inserts.

Parts List (assuming you have my lit tunnel installed):
3 x Matrix Twist Sockets | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-twist-socket?variant=39496185151590
2 x Add-on Light Sockets | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/add-on-light-sockets?variant=12493659635756
2 x 12 inch Matrix Extension Wires | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/matrix-extension-wires?variant=12493662158892
1 x Two Headed Flex Non-Ghosting Wedge (555) Red | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/two-headed-flex-non-ghosting?variant=12386975875116
1 x Two Headed Flex Non-Ghosting Wedge (555) Amber/Orange | https://www.cometpinball.com/products/two-headed-flex-non-ghosting?variant=12386976366636
2 x #6 1/2" Hex head wood screws to mount Light Sockets to underside of playfield

No inserts illuminated = no lighting
Getaway_NoLights.gif

Burn Rubber insert lit = tunnel light on (pulsing is a camera anomaly due to frame rate)
Getaway_BurnRubber.gif

Video Mode insert lit = Dish flashing red (two-headed red Comet flex bulb)
Getaway_VideoMode.gif

Extra Ball insert lit = Dish flashing orange (two-headed orange Comet flex bulb gives the dish a dark orange appearance)
Getaway_ExtraBall.gif

Just wanted to correct my terminology. The red mountain tunnel "dish" is actually a "saucer".

Yes, that's correct