(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

10 years ago


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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 22 votes
    6%
  • L2 182 votes
    52%
  • L3 11 votes
    3%
  • L5 120 votes
    34%
  • P7 9 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    2%

(Multiple choice - 351 votes by 349 Pinsiders)

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There are 13,934 posts in this topic. You are on page 249 of 279.
#12401 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

This machine has to be the funnest machine to mod. The shifter came in and looks great. The set screws will ensure the knob won’t move. The knob does have a little weight to it. Hopefully that won’t be a problem. I had know idea you could shift down in this game.
[quoted image]

That down shift switch can be an occasional source of credit dot too. If you tend to never use it, after enough time (~30 games or ~100 balls) where the game doesn't see the switch made at least once, it will throw up the error code. Use it just once and the error will reset itself and go away.

#12402 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

That down shift switch can be an occasional source of credit dot too. If you tend to never use it, after enough time (~30 games or ~100 balls) where the game doesn't see the switch made at least once, it will throw up the error code. Use it just once and the error will reset itself and go away.

Yup. Shift down to launch ball and shift up to switch gear, problem solved.

#12403 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Yup. Shift down to launch ball and shift up to switch gear, problem solved

Just to be different, play video mode in 1st gear

#12404 1 year ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Just to be different, play video mode in 1st gear

Most people new to the game or that haven't played it in so long to remember seem to do that anyway. SHIFT GEARS!!!!! lol

#12405 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Most people new to the game or that haven't played it in so long to remember seem to do that anyway. SHIFT GEARS!!!!! lol

Every now and then just for a laugh i shift back down to 1st from 5th and then back up again...mid dodging cars of course

#12406 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Most people new to the game or that haven't played it in so long to remember seem to do that anyway. SHIFT GEARS!!!!! lol

SHIFT GEARS NOW!!

#12407 1 year ago

The hole was to small, so I had to drill the inside of the shifter to 5/8. I wanted to cut weight anyway. Once that was done it fit like a glove utilizing the set screws. I think the weight will be ok. It’ll be awhile before I can test.

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#12408 1 year ago
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#12409 1 year ago

Hello again everyone. I've got a significant request for the GI on my HS2 build. So, if it is too much, feel free to ignore it.

I'm hoping someone would be kind enough to run the GI test on their machine and take a couple of pictures of the playfield with individual playfield strings on full (8). I think this will be an easier way to determine what lamps are wired to which strings.

Your help is appreciated!

#12410 1 year ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Hello again everyone. I've got a significant request for the GI on my HS2 build. So, if it is too much, feel free to ignore it.
I'm hoping someone would be kind enough to run the GI test on their machine and take a couple of pictures of the playfield with individual playfield strings on full (8). I think this will be an easier way to determine what lamps are wired to which strings.
Your help is appreciated!

I took a couple of pictures with the glass on but the glare is terrible. I am pulling the glass later today or tomorrow to change a few coils and will take pics then if someone hasn’t already beaten me to it.

#12411 1 year ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Hello again everyone. I've got a significant request for the GI on my HS2 build. So, if it is too much, feel free to ignore it.
I'm hoping someone would be kind enough to run the GI test on their machine and take a couple of pictures of the playfield with individual playfield strings on full (8). I think this will be an easier way to determine what lamps are wired to which strings.
Your help is appreciated!

I sent you a PM with some info. A pic during daytime will make it difficult to distinguish which bulbs are actually on. I'll take some pics tonight which will hopefully help.

#12412 1 year ago

Putting some decals on this Sexy Bitch!

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#12413 1 year ago
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#12414 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Putting some decals on this Sexy Bitch!
[quoted image]

lol, nice!

#12415 1 year ago
Quoted from BoilerUp:

I took a couple of pictures with the glass on but the glare is terrible. I am pulling the glass later today or tomorrow to change a few coils and will take pics then if someone hasn’t already beaten me to it.

Thanks so much! Whenever is convenient for you is great for me.

#12416 1 year ago

I took some pictures of my game last night running the GI strings one at a time. Not sure how much help this will be as it is tough to see which bulb is on with the plastics covering them.

The order I tried to do them in was All Lamps (1st four pics), then the first GI string test (next six pics), then the second GI string test (next three pics), then the fourth GI string test (next four pics). After those, I did the three backbox GI string tests and finally the all illumination test.

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#12417 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Putting some decals on this Sexy Bitch!
[quoted image]

Does the decal come in a rectangular shape that covers one entire side of the cabinet? Or, do you need to have the surface sanded smooth and repainted black, and then apply the decal which only contains the artwork? I would think you need a smooth, sanded surface in either case. And, then do the same for all the other sides.

#12418 1 year ago

The decal will cover 1 entire side, with over hang. That being said, you need to make sure everything is sanded and smooth. The defects will show through the artwork. Additionally, paint all the corners and edges gloss or semi gloss black. This will help ensure the cabinet is still black where the decals come together on the edges. You’ll then need to carefully trim the artwork around the perimeter of your cabinet. Last, you’ll need to cut out the holes where bolts go. There’s a few good YouTube videos to help you.

#12419 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I took some pictures of my game last night running the GI strings

Thank you. This helps a lot I can see enough to hopefully confirm a several of the lamps that I could not confirm.

Thanks again!

#12420 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

The decal will cover 1 entire side, with over hang. That being said, you need to make sure everything is sanded and smooth. The defects will show through the artwork. Additionally, paint all the corners and edges gloss or semi gloss black. This will help ensure the cabinet is still black where the decals come together on the edges. You’ll then need to carefully trim the artwork around the perimeter of your cabinet. Last, you’ll need to cut out the holes where bolts go. There’s a few good YouTube videos to help you.

Thanks for the info. I'm not planning to do this in the near future, but was curious.

#12421 1 year ago

Hi guys, Hoping I can get some help and direction here. My supercharger stopped working and I'm trying to find the cause. All the optos register in switch test but none of the magnets work at all. I pulled the Accelerator board and tested the transistors, and they all test good as far as I can tell. I feel like those are not likely to all fail at the same time anyway, right? I also Checked fuse F106 and that is good. any idea what to check next?

#12422 1 year ago
Quoted from hawk370:

Hi guys, Hoping I can get some help and direction here. My supercharger stopped working and I'm trying to find the cause. All the optos register in switch test but none of the magnets work at all. I pulled the Accelerator board and tested the transistors, and they all test good as far as I can tell. I feel like those are not likely to all fail at the same time anyway, right? I also Checked fuse F106 and that is good. any idea what to check next?

In case that isn't a typo, the magnets are on fuse F103 not F106, so check F103 to make sure it is still good. Does your rotating light on top work still? That is on the same fuse.

You can also double check that the supercharger didn't get turned off in the settings menu. It can be disabled there via the diverter being disabled. That's adjustment 15 on the features section. Make sure it isn't disabled.

#12423 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

In case that isn't a typo, the magnets are on fuse F103 not F106, so check F103 to make sure it is still good. Does your rotating light on top work still? That is on the same fuse.
You can also double check that the supercharger didn't get turned off in the settings menu. It can be disabled there via the diverter being disabled. That's adjustment 15 on the features section. Make sure it isn't disabled.

I will check F103 as well. a friend told me to check F106.
regarding the settings, I don't think it got turned off in settings but it's worth a look. nobody else who plays it even knows that you can change settings on it, so it's not likely.
the beacon does still work as well so the fuse is probably still good, but I will confirm.

#12424 1 year ago

anyone looking for an original getaway sound board ?
it was tested/fixed.

not sure what they go for.

#12425 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

In case that isn't a typo, the magnets are on fuse F103 not F106, so check F103 to make sure it is still good. Does your rotating light on top work still? That is on the same fuse.
You can also double check that the supercharger didn't get turned off in the settings menu. It can be disabled there via the diverter being disabled. That's adjustment 15 on the features section. Make sure it isn't disabled.

So you were indeed correct F103 was blown. I replaced it, ran the super charger test and everything functioned correctly. a few hours later I played a few games, and the fuse blew again! any idea what would cause it to blow? I was kind of hoping that it was just old and tired but obviously that is not the case.

Thanks in advance

#12426 1 year ago
Quoted from hawk370:

So you were indeed correct F103 was blown. I replaced it, ran the super charger test and everything functioned correctly. a few hours later I played a few games, and the fuse blew again! any idea what would cause it to blow? I was kind of hoping that it was just old and tired but obviously that is not the case.
Thanks in advance

It could be many things. I would add another correct size fuse and confirm if it needs slow blow or not. Put the machine in SC test mode and test each magnet individually. Maybe one will cause the fuse to blow and give you a starting point. Additionally, check and see everything that fuse goes to and start testing each item.

#12427 1 year ago

Hey guys, I just got this pin and I'm trying to figure out the best way to clean it, fix it or replace the play field. Almost all inserts seem to be peeling. Is this mylar coming off? I can see the mylar around the slings, but is there mylar over the entire play field. I'm wondering if I should attempt to remove it with freeze spray or just clean it and leave it. The play field is Diamond Plate. The other 3 options are to purchase a new play field, purchase a overlay/sticker (does this require clear coat) or purchase Getaway mylar stickers that cover up above the flippers from Ministry of Pinball. What's your thoughts?

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#12428 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Hey guys, I just got this pin and I'm trying to figure out the best way to clean it, fix it or replace the play field. Almost all inserts seem to be peeling. Is this mylar coming off? I can see the mylar around the slings, but is there mylar over the entire play field. I'm wondering if I should attempt to remove it with freeze spray or just clean it and leave it. The play field is Diamond Plate. The other 3 options are to purchase a new play field, purchase a overlay/sticker (does this require clear coat) or purchase Getaway mylar stickers that cover up above the flippers from Ministry of Pinball. What's your thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No it's "Diamond Plated" Mylar on the slings if the operator installed it but there was mylar around pop bumpers

EDIT: I still have the sling mylar in my manual

#12429 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Hey guys, I just got this pin and I'm trying to figure out the best way to clean it, fix it or replace the play field. Almost all inserts seem to be peeling. Is this mylar coming off? I can see the mylar around the slings, but is there mylar over the entire play field. I'm wondering if I should attempt to remove it with freeze spray or just clean it and leave it. The play field is Diamond Plate. The other 3 options are to purchase a new play field, purchase a overlay/sticker (does this require clear coat) or purchase Getaway mylar stickers that cover up above the flippers from Ministry of Pinball. What's your thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

As for the other part, in my opinion, depending on money, time wanting to spend repairing and expertise....

Replace PF
Replace decals and touch up paint and clear coat - look at Vid1900 threads
Play it as is but I think the wear and tear may make if worse quickly

I don't think I'd use an overlay

EDIT:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/159#post-6885067

#12430 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

As for the other part, in my opinion, depending on money, time wanting to spend repairing and expertise....
Replace PF
Replace decals and touch up paint and clear coat - look at Vid1900 threads
Play it as is but I think the wear and tear may make if worse quickly
I don't think I'd use an overlay
EDIT:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/159#post-6885067

Thank you for the info. I’m interested in anyones thoughts before I tear down the play field. I’m still unsure. I was thinking of sanding down the play field and adding an overlay without professionally clearing over the top. I’ll take any suggestions on whatever.

#12431 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thank you for the info. I’m interested in anyones thoughts before I tear down the play field. I’m still unsure. I was thinking of sanding down the play field and adding an overlay without professionally clearing over the top. I’ll take any suggestions on whatever.

I've never taken on a project of that scale, minor touch ups and small repairs yes but I'd check out Vids threads and see what you're comfortable with before hand because there is a lot of great info/advise in those threads.

#12432 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

I've never taken on a project of that scale, minor touch ups and small repairs yes but I'd check out Vids threads and see what you're comfortable with before hand because there is a lot of great info/advise in those threads.

Thank you. I’ve read that forum a couple of times. I was just trying to figure out what’s going on with my inserts. I think they’re just lifted and getting chewed up. I might end up leaving it alone for now and come back to it later.

#12433 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thank you. I’ve read that forum a couple of times. I was just trying to figure out what’s going on with my inserts. I think they’re just lifted and getting chewed up. I might end up leaving it alone for now and come back to it later.

FWIW the edges on a lot of my inserts are the same. Doesn't impact how well it plays in my case. I've done a playfield swap on my Gorgar, a much simpler machine. Doing a swap of this one would be quite the ordeal I'm sure.

#12434 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

As for the other part, in my opinion, depending on money, time wanting to spend repairing and expertise....
Replace PF
Replace decals and touch up paint and clear coat - look at Vid1900 threads
Play it as is but I think the wear and tear may make if worse quickly
I don't think I'd use an overlay

I have a T2 with similar insert problems. Basically they raise up a bit and then they start to get chewed up from playing. With medium home use, mine got visibly more chewed up over the course of a couple of years. They seemed to have a minor impact on playing.

Over on the T2 thread, a number of people just re-seat the inserts and call it a day. I actually wanted my inserts to look new so in the end I decided on a PF swap. I thought about repairing the PF but while my mechanical skills are ok, anything involving paint or art is a different story. I also thought about decals but to look good, you have to chip off the old art which I didn't want to do.

If you take your time, a PF swap isn't too hard.

If you just want to prevent addition damage and 'improve' play, you might want to consider a playfield protector:

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/ikCCpCvfdE-CVzDgaE0mkQ?catgoryid=22&name=The%20Getaway%3A%20High%20Speed%20II%20%7C%201992%20%7C%20Playfield%20Protector

They are pretty easy to install (and remove if you don't like it). I have one on a Flash with heavily cupped inserts. It plays somewhat different (mainly sound, it's much quieter) than a stock PF but it's much better than playing on a PF with cupped inserts. Some people love them, some not so much. I don't know what your budget is but at $95 it's not a super big gamble.

#12435 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thank you for the info. I’m interested in anyones thoughts before I tear down the play field.

If you want to play, clean it, do a purely visual amateur touch up and put a protector on it to gain a smooth surface and prevent your touch up from being destroyed.
If you don't want to go cheap (cheap in every sense of the word), tear it down and either replace it with the one from BUT hamburg (https://www.buthamburg.de/de/spielflaechen/50004-the-getaway-hs2-repro-spielflaeche) or have someone professionally restore it.

I personally like restoration more than playing, so obviously I would NEVER EVER go for option one. However, if playing it was the main idea that will do just fine.

My approach, just for reference:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-2-the-getaway-first-restoration

#12436 1 year ago
Quoted from retroware99:

I have a T2 with similar insert problems. Basically they raise up a bit and then they start to get chewed up from playing. With medium home use, mine got visibly more chewed up over the course of a couple of years. They seemed to have a minor impact on playing.
Over on the T2 thread, a number of people just re-seat the inserts and call it a day. I actually wanted my inserts to look new so in the end I decided on a PF swap. I thought about repairing the PF but while my mechanical skills are ok, anything involving paint or art is a different story. I also thought about decals but to look good, you have to chip off the old art which I didn't want to do.
If you take your time, a PF swap isn't too hard.
If you just want to prevent addition damage and 'improve' play, you might want to consider a playfield protector:
https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/ikCCpCvfdE-CVzDgaE0mkQ?catgoryid=22&name=The%20Getaway%3A%20High%20Speed%20II%20%7C%201992%20%7C%20Playfield%20Protector
They are pretty easy to install (and remove if you don't like it). I have one on a Flash with heavily cupped inserts. It plays somewhat different (mainly sound, it's much quieter) than a stock PF but it's much better than playing on a PF with cupped inserts. Some people love them, some not so much. I don't know what your budget is but at $95 it's not a super big gamble.

I'd do that above an overlay for sure

#12437 1 year ago
Quoted from Kobaja:

If you want to play, clean it, do a purely visual amateur touch up and put a protector on it to gain a smooth surface and prevent your touch up from being destroyed.
If you don't want to go cheap (cheap in every sense of the word), tear it down and either replace it with the one from BUT hamburg (https://www.buthamburg.de/de/spielflaechen/50004-the-getaway-hs2-repro-spielflaeche) or have someone professionally restore it.
I personally like restoration more than playing, so obviously I would NEVER EVER go for option one. However, if playing it was the main idea that will do just fine.
My approach, just for reference:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-2-the-getaway-first-restoration

Beautiful!

#12438 1 year ago

Just recently got my Getaway all cleaned and modded up. It’s playing and looking great now! Still need to get a ColorDMD.
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#12439 1 year ago

Thanks for the play field suggestions. I have a little time and will think it over a little bit.

Additionally, I’m doing a flipper rebuild. Is there a stronger flipper coil people are using?

#12440 1 year ago
Quoted from YERFDOG:

Just recently got my Getaway all cleaned and modded up.

Looks real good! Where did you get the clear replacement for the mountain plastic?

#12441 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Thanks for the play field suggestions. I have a little time and will think it over a little bit.
Additionally, I’m doing a flipper rebuild. Is there a stronger flipper coil people are using?

Go with what was meant to be in there. Blue label FL-11629 for both lower flippers and red label FL-11630 for upper right.

#12442 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

Looks real good! Where did you get the clear replacement for the mountain plastic?

Thank you! That plastic came with the "Mountain Mod" I purchased from user Mr_Tantrum here on the forum.

#12443 1 year ago
Quoted from kyle5574:

Looks real good! Where did you get the clear replacement for the mountain plastic?

You can make one for a few bucks yourself

#12444 1 year ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

You can make one for a few bucks yourself

Or you can buy a laser cut piece from me if you are not up to the DYI project. I’m willing to sell them as a standalone item apart from the mountain mod.

#12445 1 year ago

I always thought that airballs made the game more exiting, but I see this differently now. Is there any good way to eliminate (or reduce the occurrence of) airballs resulting from flipper shots to the center R-Y-G targets that then become airborne?

#12446 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

I always thought that airballs made the game more exiting, but I see this differently now. Is there any good way to eliminate (or reduce the occurrence of) airballs resulting from flipper shots to the center R-Y-G targets that then become airborne?

If the air balls come after hitting the targets, be happy you have good flippers. Maybe protect the targets with some target cushion stickers from Mr Tantrum.

If the air balls are coming from the flippers themselves, then lower the shaft closer to the play field.

#12447 1 year ago

I don't often go for direct shots at those middle red-yellow-green targets. Too unpredictable where the ball goes afterwards, air balls or otherwise. First time through the gears, a shot up the ramp or into the mountain saucer will spot you a target. That's the strategy for getting multiball the first time. After that, I'll purposely miss hit a shot with the upper flipper at the loop and intentionally catch the lower bank of targets that will careen into the middle bank. The top bank becomes a little more luck by throwing it into the pop bumpers and waiting for it to hit the one you need.

#12448 1 year ago

Getting some work done. Sexy Bitch!

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#12449 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

If the air balls come after hitting the targets, be happy you have good flippers. Maybe protect the targets with some target cushion stickers from Mr Tantrum.
If the air balls are coming from the flippers themselves, then lower the shaft closer to the play field.

Airballs are coming off the targets. Do target cushions actually reduce the intensity of airballs? Does Mr_Tantrum claim airball reduction with his target cushions?

#12450 1 year ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Airballs are coming off the targets. Do target cushions actually reduce the intensity of airballs? Does Mr_Tantrum claim airball reduction with his target cushions?

I don't make any claims regarding airballs, as my targets were designed for styling. However, I use a thick mounting tape for the backing which does serve as a shock absorber.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/228#post-6280647

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Machine - For Sale
Kansas City, MO
From: $ 100.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
$ 65.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Fort Lauderdale, FL
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
$ 40.00
5,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Arlington Heights, IL
$ 17.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
G-Money Mods
 
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 15.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
 
$ 225.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
 
$ 22.50
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
$ 70.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
RobTune
 
$ 19.00
Boards
Tilted Pinball
 
4,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Eureka Springs, AR
$ 9.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
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