(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 12 days ago by golfergordy
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There are 12,320 posts in this topic. You are on page 246 of 247.
#12251 50 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

So all you have to do is remove the existing LED's from the boards and solder in the new ones - is that correct? And, these are the correct LED's to accomplish that ???

Yes.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I assume you need to pay attention to polarity

Correct, the longer lead from the dome is "+", the little boards are usually marked "+" & "-".

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#12252 50 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

Hey guys
I have a problem with the optos 2 and 3 on the supercharger.
In test mode the ball trigged them only half of the times.
I changed both the transmitters and receivers. No success.
I can trigged them with a pen easily. Every new optos have good and new solder points.
Anyone had to deal with this?
Thanks!

Please help my friend Lou so i can enjoy my newly restored getaway hehe

#12253 49 days ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Please help my friend Lou so i can enjoy my newly restored getaway hehe

Nice bump

At this point I know that all optos are receiving/transmitting. It might be a mechsnical problem like a shaky SC that moved optos holes when the ball passes them.

Nobody got this before? 125 is my best speed and it will be killer with all optos dialed in

#12254 48 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

Nice bump
At this point I know that all optos are receiving/transmitting. It might be a mechsnical problem like a shaky SC that moved optos holes when the ball passes them.
Nobody got this before? 125 is my best speed and it will be killer with all optos dialed in

It sounds like you solved the problem with your SC speed test now below 145 (>145 indicates a problem). I did SC speed tests 3 times in the past 6-months on my Getaway with a range of 78-122. The 78 was right after cleaning & waxing the raceway.

What did you diagnose as being the problem?

#12255 47 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

It sounds like you solved the problem with your SC speed test now below 145 (>145 indicates a problem). I did SC speed tests 3 times in the past 6-months on my Getaway with a range of 78-122. The 78 was right after cleaning & waxing the raceway.
What did you diagnose as being the problem?

In test mode the ball trigged Opto 2 and 3 only half of the times when the ball passes through at low speed.
I changed both transmitters and receivers on all 3.
I can trigged them with a pen easily.
Every new optos have good and new solder joints.

#12256 47 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

In test mode the ball trigged Opto 2 and 3 only half of the times when the ball passes through at low speed.
I changed both transmitters and receivers on all 3.
I can trigged them with a pen easily.
Every new optos have good and new solder joints.

But is the problem solved now that you replaced the optos?

#12257 46 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

But is the problem solved now that you replaced the optos?

No

#12258 46 days ago

ElectricLou:

If I were you, I would next disconnect (one at a time at both ends) the wires connected to the opto you suspect as being the problem and install a temporary jumper wire in its place. Each opto has 4-wires connected (transmitters and receivers have 2-wires each). After installing one jumper wire see how the game works and determine if the problem is solved. If the problem went away you have found a bad wire so replace it with a permanent wire. If the problem is still present, remove the jumper wire and reconnect the original wire, which you can now assume is in good condition (no shorts, leakage or breakage). Then repeat this procedure for the other wires (one at a time). After checking all the wires and determining that they're good, you may next have to suspect a problem on a PC board. I'm not very good at troubleshooting PC board problems. I googled "getaway pinball opto problem" and got some hits - here's one you may want to read for ideas: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hsii-the-getaway-all-optos-not-working-fixed Maybe someone else on this forum has a better idea? Good luck.

#12259 46 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

If I were you, I would next disconnect (one at a time at both ends) the wires connected to the opto you suspect as being the problem and install a temporary jumper wire in its place. Each opto has 4-wires connected (transmitters and receivers have 2-wires each). After installing one jumper wire see how the game works and determine if the problem is solved

The best way is to trace back to where the wires connect to and using a DMM, test continuity between the 2 ends. That will determine a wire break if any.

#12260 45 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

The best way is to trace back to where the wires connect to and using a DMM, test continuity between the 2 ends. That will determine a wire break if any.

exact. I tested continuity with no problem.
There is 5 optos on the super charger mech;
3 in the super charger (#81-82-83)
1 enter left ramp (#85)
1 made loop (#84)

I have the same problem with all optos; they register but only at slow speed.
I reflowed all connectors on the opto board under PF.

What can cause an opto to get lazy? I mean the light beam is broken or not?
thanks again!

#12261 45 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

What can cause an opto to get lazy? I mean the light beam is broken or not?
thanks again!

Must admit that has me stumped. I've not encountered a lazy opto before on any of my machines that use them, generally speaking they either work or they don't. You wouldn't think speed of the ball would ever be a major problem

#12262 45 days ago

I read everything I can about optos and why they can fail.
My 12V is at 13V on the power board. 4,9V for the 5V.
All coils and switches are working great.
I mean the game is working great and the SC can go to 115. It's still fun but I know it can go faster than this and overall I want to understand why optos are working only once in every 4-5 turns

#12263 45 days ago

Okay, without going back and reading I have a few questions.

- Are you actually having any performance issues with the SC loop?
- If not, the optos are working as designed. If the optos were not working the magnets would not fire and your SC loop times would be pitiful (the ball may not even make the trip around at times). If this is the case and the optos are not registering in test mode, that is simply because of the high speed of the ball. They are working, just not reporting to the DMD.
- If you test the magnets one at a time and each fires consistently but the opto is not registering on the screen, then guess what? The opto is working. Without the opto being tripped the magnet would not fire.

As a FYI, my best average timings are in the 90's after cleaning/lubricating the SC. Before that, my averages were in the 120's. I know there are a handful of guys here that somehow get exceptional timings below the 90's, but I'd be curious what the average was for everyone.

#12264 45 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Okay, without going back and reading I have a few questions.
- Are you actually having any performance issues with the SC loop?
- If not, the optos are working as designed. If the optos were not working the magnets would not fire and your SC loop times would be pitiful (the ball may not even make the trip around at times). If this is the case and the optos are not registering in test mode, that is simply because of the high speed of the ball. They are working, just not reporting to the DMD.
- If you test the magnets one at a time and each fires consistently but the opto is not registering on the screen, then guess what? The opto is working. Without the opto being tripped the magnet would not fire.

The ball can easily make the loop. SuperCharger average speed at 115-120.
I know that all 3 solenoids are working and measuring good (3ohms). Also working individually in test mode.
The game has a new accelarator board mentionning it's suppose to speed at 93.
I don't have any frictions with the diverter's rivets or any plastic
I waxed the Supercharger.
I changed all 3 receivers and transmitters
I reflowed every connector on the opto board
I got new non-magnetised balls
I tested continuity everwhere.

So how one SC can go to 120 and another around 80?

#12265 45 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

The ball can easily make the loop. SuperCharger average speed at 115-120.
I know that all 3 solenoids are working and measuring good (3ohms). Also working individually in test mode.
The game has a new accelarator board mentionning it's suppose to speed at 93.
I don't have any frictions with the diverter's rivets or any plastic
I waxed the Supercharger.
I changed all 3 receivers and transmitters
I reflowed every connector on the opto board
I got new non-magnetised balls
I tested continuity everwhere.
So how one SC can go to 120 and another around 80?

Does it start around 120 then accelerate to 80 (lower is faster in this case)?

What occurs when you use the SC test and only do one magnet at a time? Does each single magnet fire consistently? Again, if they do then the optos are performing as designed.

Other factors that can affect SC timings:
- Pitch of game
- Any loose parts on the SC (e.g. if is SC not fully stiff/secure then some speed will be lost)
- Any non-smooth parts/edges poking out, etc.

#12266 45 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Does it start around 120 then accelerate to 80 (lower is faster in this case)?
What occurs when you use the SC test and only do one magnet at a time? Does each single magnet fire consistently? Again, if they do then the optos are performing as designed.
Other factors that can affect SC timings:
- Pitch of game
- Any loose parts on the SC (e.g. if is SC not fully stiff/secure then some speed will be lost)
- Any non-smooth parts/edges poking out, etc.

it starts at 130-140 and ends around 120.
Each magnet is working individually in test mode but only 1 magnet is not enough to run the loop "non-stop".
I have to enable minimum 2.
Is only 1 magnet is suppose to make the loop?

#12267 45 days ago

Im curious how fast you guys goes your supercharger?
When you have a sec;
- Go into service menu (coindoor)
- select TEST
- select SC TIME SET
Diverter will open. Put a ball in the supercharger. Let it spin till you get your lowest number.

My best Time: 111

#12268 45 days ago

Just did a SC lap time test: started at about 100, and last lap was 94.
Back in February I thoroughly cleaned & waxed the SC raceway and then the last lap was 78. Back then I was concerned with the ball not exiting the SC properly (and being returned to the left flipper) because the diverter didn't actuate fast enough which sent the ball back down the entrance ramp because the ball hit the diverter while it was closing. It didn't do this all that often, but it was often enough that I wanted the frequency of this to decrease. I figured that with the passing of some time (and plays) that the SC lap time would slow down and reduce the frequency of the ball not exiting the SC properly. I was right - with my current last lap time of 94 (much slower than the 78 in Feb.) the ball now exits the SC properly almost all the time. I just received my order of new optos, and I hope that replacing the loop made opto will operate the diverter door faster so that the ball exiting the SC improperly problem will completely go away (we'll see?).

ElectricLou - I'm still a bit confused. Is the current status of your SC performance causing game play problems, or are you only trying to get your SC lap time to be faster?

#12269 44 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

ElectricLou - I'm still a bit confused. Is the current status of your SC performance causing game play problems, or are you only trying to get your SC lap time to be faster?

I just want the SC to be faster. Everything else is A1.

#12270 44 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

I just want the SC to be faster. Everything else is A1.

Be careful what you wish for. The faster the lap time in the SC, the greater the chance of the ball not being released out of the SC correctly. The diverter door must change position to release the ball back to the left flipper after being in the SC, but sometimes the diverter door doesn't change position fast enough and the ball hits it while it's moving, which sends the ball back to the pf down the SC entrance ramp. The faster the SC lap time, the more chance of the ball hitting the diverter while it's in motion. Right now, I want my ball speed to slow down slightly so the ball will release to the left flipper 99% of the time instead of approx. 95% which I am now experiencing. There have been previous discussions on this forum about increasing lap speed, and balls not being properly released from the SC to the pf, and I think there was only one owner who claimed that his diverter properly released the ball to the left flipper 100% of the time. I'm hoping that replacing my loop made opto will stop the ball from hitting the diverter, but I haven't changed it yet. I'm glad that your SC is working ok. After adjusting the magnets, cleaning & waxing the raceway seems to me to be the most effective way to increase the SC ball speed.

#12271 44 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

it starts at 130-140 and ends around 120.
Each magnet is working individually in test mode but only 1 magnet is not enough to run the loop "non-stop".
I have to enable minimum 2.
Is only 1 magnet is suppose to make the loop?

One magnet is usually not enough to make the loop or it barely does for me.

However, any combination of two magnets should be enough.

#12272 44 days ago

Thank you all for your inputs!

#12273 44 days ago
Quoted from ElectricLou:

it starts at 130-140 and ends around 120.
Each magnet is working individually in test mode but only 1 magnet is not enough to run the loop "non-stop".
I have to enable minimum 2.
Is only 1 magnet is suppose to make the loop?

120 as a peak timing is slow. This is where I was too after doing everything I could (new optos, resoldered everything, new opto driver board, resecuring everything, cleaning and waxing the SC loop, etc. The one thing that finally dramatically improved my timings was as I previously mentioned: a very light coat of silicon oil around the inside surfaces of the SC loop where the ball makes contact (floor and walls). Thus far the initial coating has lasted for months, and I still have respectable/visibly noticeably improved timings after a multitude of games.

#12274 42 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Does anyone here happen to have measurements for the location of the playfield pivot nuts as measured from the bottom and rear of the cabinet? I'm working on a scratch build.
Thanks in advance for the help!

Just a bump to see if someone might help with the pivot locations for an HS2 with slide rails

#12275 42 days ago

Thanks to ElectricLou & Mr_Tantrum I might have solved one mystery that I've been working on (on & off but mostly off) for the past year - ever since I obtained my Getaway game. I bought 5-sets of replacement opto switches (at Mr_T's suggestion a week or so ago), and so far replaced the Lap Made opto today. I was thinking that if this opto wasn't working as fast as it should that this might be contributing to the problem I've been experiencing where the diverter doesn't change position fast enough to release a ball from the SC to the ramp leading to the left flipper, and that it would instead sometimes release the ball down the SC entrance ramp because the ball hit the diverter door while it was in motion changing position. After replacing this opto with a new one, I played a bunch of games and counted every time the ball entered the SC. I counted up to 50 times, and the ball was successfully returned to the left flipper (as it should) every time. With the old opto there would have been approx. 2-4 times in 50 chances that the diverter wouldn't change position fast enough. I know that a sample size of only 50 doesn't conclusively prove that the problem is solved, but it sure looks encouraging. Faithfully reading this forum has sure helped me out solving pb problems, thanks to all of you.

#12276 42 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Just a bump to see if someone might help with the pivot locations for an HS2 with slide rails

1) What are pivot nuts?
2) What are the side rails? Do some HS II's not have side rails?

#12277 42 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

1) What are pivot nuts?
2) What are the side rails? Do some HS II's not have side rails?

He said slide with an L not side. I believe he may be making a cabinet and needs to know where the holes in the cabinet for the slide pivot and slides are, but just guessing.

#12278 41 days ago
Quoted from THJM:

He said slide with an L not side. I believe he may be making a cabinet and needs to know where the holes in the cabinet for the slide pivot and slides are, but just guessing.

Yes, I am scratch building an HS2. The only piece of data that I don't have for the cabinet is the location of the pivot nuts on each side of the cab.

The earliest HS2 units have only a single playfield pivot nut like TAF. The "newer" ones use the slides that let you pull the playfield forward and lock it in place so the back of the playfield can be more easily reached.

The "slide" version uses two pivot nuts on each side. I need to know where to drill these four holes in the cabinet.

Hopefully this provides some context to my question.

Thanks for reading and responding!

#12279 41 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

The "slide" version uses two pivot nuts on each side. I need to know where to drill these four holes in the cabinet.
Hopefully this provides some context to my question. Thanks for reading and responding!

I'll try to help you on this over the weekend... unless someone else beats me to it. Stay tuned...

#12280 41 days ago

Here's my update to yesterday's post #12275. After replacing the "lap made" opto, I've now counted 121 times in a row that the ball has entered the SC and was correctly released to the left ramp leading to the left flipper. I now consider the problem solved.

About 6-8 months ago I replaced the diverter coil sleeve and spring (with a stronger than standard spring) in an attempt to correct the problem of the diverter sometimes incorrectly releasing the ball from the SC back down the SC entrance ramp. This improved things a little, but the problem still existed, only not as frequently (to about 5% of the time). Replacing the "lap made" opto yesterday solved the problem and the ball now is released from the SC properly 100% of the time. I think I've now got the entire game working 100% like new. I still have the other 4 optos to replace, but the existing ones seem to be working ok, so this isn't real high on my priority list.

#12281 39 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Yes, I am scratch building an HS2. The only piece of data that I don't have for the cabinet is the location of the pivot nuts on each side of the cab.
The earliest HS2 units have only a single playfield pivot nut like TAF. The "newer" ones use the slides that let you pull the playfield forward and lock it in place so the back of the playfield can be more easily reached.
The "slide" version uses two pivot nuts on each side. I need to know where to drill these four holes in the cabinet.
Hopefully this provides some context to my question.
Thanks for reading and responding!

Walamab,
I think I now know what you are referring to when you say pivot nuts. From the outside of the pb cabinet they look like plain headed bolts (like carriage bolts look). I believe I have the 2nd version of The Getaway, which has the Diamond Plate pf, and 4 of the pivot nuts (2 on each side). I measured the locations on the outside of the cabinet and tried to hold the measuring tape square to the bottom edge of the cab. for the vertical dimensions, and square to the back edge for the horizontal dimensions. Amazingly, the dimensions on both sides of the cab. were identical (which one would hope they would be). The following measurements were taken from the bottom edge, outside of the cabinet, and back edge, outside of the cab. to the center of the pivot nut heads:
Lower pivot nuts (which are closer to the front of the game) are: 12 7/8" from bot. (horizontal) edge of cab.; 23" from back (vertical) edge of cab.
Upper pivot nuts (which are closer to the back of the game) are: 14 7/32" from bot.; 19 1/4" from back.
The pics should help explain where the measurements were taken from if my description is confusing.
I am a retired civil engineer, and have had much experience taking measurements of many different things during my career, and realize the importance of getting measurements right before passing them on to others.

I did repeat every measurement several times to make sure of the numbers, but if I were you, I would confirm the above dimensions with another independent person with a 2nd Getaway game before you drill any holes.

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#12282 37 days ago

golfergordy This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks sooo much for taking the time to take measurements and pictures.

#12283 37 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

golfergordy This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thanks sooo much for taking the time to take measurements and pictures.

People on this, and other pb forums have helped me in the past, and I'm sure I'll be asking for more help in the future. I'm hoping to both pay back and pay forward at the same time.

#12284 37 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

People on this, and other pb forums have helped me in the past, and I'm sure I'll be asking for more help in the future. I'm hoping to both pay back and pay forward at the same time.

Awesome, that's what we do here and it always feels good when you can help out your fellow pinheads.

#12285 32 days ago

Any of you guys know the part number for the pin that raises the lifting ramp in the back?

Thanks
Mike

#12286 32 days ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

Any of you guys know the part number for the pin that raises the lifting ramp in the back?
Thanks
Mike

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4268
but I found this to be really short, I kept the one I had in mine which was twice as long...I reached out to marco to look into it...haven't heard back

#12287 28 days ago

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some help.
Installed a pin sound recently.
I’m having issues;the music stops playing shortly after the ball is in play and all I hear for the most part are all the effects . Once the ball drains, the music starts. I’m thinking I have an issue with a switch. Something is “stuck” ?
Maybe a flipper or EOS switch? The “Turbo charger sound “ gets actuated often.
This might be related… if the ball drains while free ride is blinking, the shooter doesn’t fire the ball. The machine waites and then starts firing coils to find the ball until it finally shoots.
Another issue I’m having is with my DMD. When I first turn it on it looks like garbage. After an hour or so it looks fine.
Power issue at the DMD. Anyone know what the voltages should be?
Yes I have several issues wondering if they are all related. One correction to fix them all.
I’m planning on having kids over this weekend was hoping to play with the new sound.
Anyone have an idea where to start?

#12288 27 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some help.
Installed a pin sound recently.
I’m having issues;the music stops playing shortly after the ball is in play and all I hear for the most part are all the effects . Once the ball drains, the music starts. I’m thinking I have an issue with a switch. Something is “stuck” ?
Maybe a flipper or EOS switch? The “Turbo charger sound “ gets actuated often.
This might be related… if the ball drains while free ride is blinking, the shooter doesn’t fire the ball. The machine waites and then starts firing coils to find the ball until it finally shoots.
Another issue I’m having is with my DMD. When I first turn it on it looks like garbage. After an hour or so it looks fine.
Power issue at the DMD. Anyone know what the voltages should be?
Yes I have several issues wondering if they are all related. One correction to fix them all.
I’m planning on having kids over this weekend was hoping to play with the new sound.
Anyone have an idea where to start?

PinSound:

1 - Updated to the most recent firmware available on PinSound's website. Don't assume your brand new PinSound has the most recent firmware.
2 - Check your 5V supply on PinSound. There is a 5V header on the board you can put a meter on. Also, there is a txt file on the PinSound USB that measures 5V each time you put the game. Open that file on your computer and see what is in it (the file will also list your firmware version).
3 - Double check all cables are fully seated on the PinSound board, in the correct orientations, and fully seated at the other end of the cable wherever it goes to.

Also, the PinSound board would have nothing to do with the odd "lost ball" behavior you are experiencing.

#12289 26 days ago

Hi Everyone
Is there a recommended mods list yet ... and where to obtain?
Looking for:
1) blades
2) donut heaven
3) mountain
4) shifter upgrade
5) key start

#12290 26 days ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

Hi Everyone
Is there a recommended mods list yet ... and where to obtain?
Looking for:
1) blades
2) donut heaven
3) mountain
4) shifter upgrade
5) key start

PM me for a full list of the mods I offer, but here are some answers to your specific list:

1) blades
graphic - https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/getaway-high-speed-ii-gameblades
mirror - https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/bally-williams-mirror-blades
2) donut heaven - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/85485
3) mountain - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/198#post-5226898
4) shifter upgrade - depends on what you are wanting/looking for
5) key start - https://mezelmods.com/collections/the-getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-mods/products/getaway-high-speed-2-pinball-led-key-mod?variant=888126001

#12292 26 days ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

2 & 3 are the same: donut heaven mod

Corrected. Also, the images of the first mountain were darker. The final version of the mountain is more of a milk chocolate brown seen here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/199#post-5253823

#12293 25 days ago

Anyone with a spare NOS translite for sale?

#12294 24 days ago

I just bought and installed the Donut Shop and Mountain from Mr. Tantrum and they are both great! Lots of details in the Donut Shop as well, like the people in the windows.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Corrected. Also, the images of the first mountain were darker. The final version of the mountain is more of a milk chocolate brown seen here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/199#post-5253823

291720203_10221483727937698_7155941574243796855_n (resized).jpg
#12295 24 days ago

Agreed! I just installed most of his mods and they look great!

I do have one suggestion for a mod for you mod guys. Mr. Tantrum are you listening?? The insert for super jackpot is kind of obscured near the shooter lane. How about a little super jackpot sign to mount from the super charger somewhere more visible?? This would make the super jackpot more dramatic! It was also key the player as to when its lit.

THanks
Mike

Quoted from CoasterG:

I just bought and installed the Donut Shop and Mountain from Mr. Tantrum and they are both great! Lots of details in the Donut Shop as well, like the people in the windows.
[quoted image]

#12296 24 days ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

Agreed! I just installed most of his mods and they look great!
I do have one suggestion for a mod for you mod guys. Mr. Tantrum are you listening?? The insert for super jackpot is kind of obscured near the shooter lane. How about a little super jackpot sign to mount from the super charger somewhere more visible?? This would make the super jackpot more dramatic! It was also key the player as to when its lit.
THanks
Mike

I'll think about that when I have some time to tinker.

#12297 24 days ago

I have a nice player's condition, but I'd love a mint one, all done up with mods and Pinsound. If anyone is ever thinking of selling let me know.

Thanks!

IMG_20220725_174135 (resized).jpg

#12298 24 days ago

Hello everyone! I have a getaway I've been slowly working on. I just picked up a 3D printed the other day. Does anyone have the stl files for the donut shop mods or the traffic light files? Thanks a million! They used to be on Thingiverse but aren't there any longer. Cheers.

#12299 24 days ago
Quoted from TheOnlyest:

Yes.

Correct, the longer lead from the dome is "+", the little boards are usually marked "+" & "-".[quoted image]

TheOnlyest,
I bought new optos (with the little boards) to replace all 5 at the SC, but only replaced the lap made opto so far and noticed much improvement. I found new LED's for the opto boards on eBay (very cheap) so I bought them (transmitters & receivers) and when I finish replacing all 5 of the opto switches on my Getaway, I'll rebuild the old opto boards with the new LED's and have a spare set in the spare parts box. My question is: which leg of the LED gets soldered into which position on the board. You stated that the little boards usually indicate + and -, but the old boards I just replaced are marked "K" and "A" (on the green boards) and "E" and "C" (on the blue boards), and the new boards I bought are marked the same way (with no + or - labels). Can you please give me some direction on this? Thanks

IMG_3595 (resized).jpg
#12300 24 days ago

Mr_Tantrum,
I'm loving your mountain & donut heaven mods more & more every time I see them, and will probably be a buyer before long. When viewing the mountain mod today I noticed the blue jet bumper covers with the BriteCaps EVO Pop Bumper Lighting next to the mountain. I believe the lighting came from PBL but your caps don't look like the PBL caps, and I'm wondering where you got them. They have a faceted surface which much better disperses the blue light.

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