I thought about doing this...but decided to leave it stock

yup, 1-1/8, but the problem seems resolved by simply centereing the playfield more to the center via the hangers. So thanks all...

Ok working through getting my Getaway into good shape.
Got the lighting issues repaired thanks to some talented local help. The board needed a few new connectors and some resoldering.

Current issue is that the game unexpectedly "revs" out of nowhere. It'll make the sound and the rpm indicator will rev for a second or so.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
George

I'm in the club! I'm in the club! picked up this beauty in Las Vegas yesterday. Players condition for sure, but she is cleaning up nicely! biggest surprise so far, besides some broken plastic that I didn't notice, is she only has one speaker! WTH?? Also, just curious how people feel about the side art. mine is faded, as seems pretty common, but I'm no big fan and thinking of maybe printing something a little sexier...?

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I saw that on CL a couple weeks ago. Congrats & welcome.

Btw, it has the wrong lockbar on it, that's a system 11 bar.

Really? How can you tell? seems to work fine, but is dented....

I'm spending most of the day today cleaning and "unmodding" this beauty. I really don't understand why people have the need to put stickers all over their machines. The original playfield was designed by Doug Watson, one of the great graphic artists of the century! Do we really think we need to put little speed dials and cheesy stop lights over his original design?

And honestly, I wish it didn't have LED lights everywhere. Lotta work, but I'd like to take it all back to original eventually. I just like is softer and slightly more mellow.

I can just tell by lookin! WPC lockbars are smooth across the front. System 11's have a hard crease bend in the inside corners and the bottom is bent inward across the front, as yours is.
Using a system 11 lockbar on a WPC game will work with some wiggling, but it will gouge up the cab behind it when its clamped down.

Btw, I know where that lockbar came from... it was once in my possession, briefly... Not the game, just the lockbar. So i'd have to assume you bought the game from a dude named Jay or Adam.

hmmm... no... I bought it from Mike (in las vegas)... or at least that's what he said his name was... don't know where he got it or how long he had it, didn't seem super knowledgable about pinball tho...

Interesting, I guess that game changed hands a couple times before you got it. That lockbar is unmistakable, i'm still trying to figure out how someone managed to dent it in that spot, the strongest point of the piece!

Welcome! Enjoy your new pin!

so i'm not to happy with the LED conversion I inherited on my Getaway. I think I'll go back to incandescent everywhere I can. Haven't done something like this before. (only replaced a couple bulbs on my older Time Warp). Anything I should know? Any danger of stressing the old power supply by reverting completely? Can someone give me a link to the appropriate flasher bulbs on Amazon or Macro? Also what about those bumpers? How do I go back to incandescent on those? (replace the bumper body?) Thanks in advance...

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These machines were rated for use with standard bulbs so the transformer won't be stressed, it's more a stress on the driver board to be honest (over time) It's been nearly 9 years since i changed mine over to LEDS but from memory you will need to buy both #555 (Wedge socket) and also #44 (Twist socket) for your regular sized globes and possibly the same for the flashers i think. Again, from memory alone think the flasher wedge style are #906 and the Twist socket style is #89 The pop bumpers you just remove the 2 screws for the cap and those ring LEDS usually have a central wedge connector or globe led body that plugs into the wedge socket, just replace the whole thing with a standard #555.

awesome man, thanks!

Another idea would be to simply change the LEDs to all white, rather than all those colors. That will generally be a little brighter, and will also keep the current and heat down overall, with about the same amount of work.

Warm white would be pretty close to the stock light color, but personally, I kinda prefer their sunlight, but that’d be up to you.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/2smd-bulbs

Just an idea.

Jeff

There’s also this “retro” LED that is designed to simulate an incandescent bulb more accurately, as a suggestion:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/retro-smd-bullet-bulbs

Jeff

I absolutely second that. Go for the 2SMD OEM bulbs in warm white for all GI. They are beautifully close to the original incandescent bulbs and really combine the best of both worlds. Original art looks the way it was meant to be and, power demand, brightness and temperature characteristics of LED.

Bulb # Description Bulb type Colour
24-8768 Freeway 1 555 Yellow
24-8768 Freeway 2 555 Yellow
24-8768 Freeway 3 555 Yellow
24-8768 Freeway 4 555 Yellow
24-8768 Freeway 5 555 Yellow
24-8768 Speed (x2) 555 Red
24-8768 Left freeway 555 Yellow
24-8768 Lock (x2) 555 Green
24-6549 2X 44 Green
24-8768 4X 555 Green
24-8768 Hold bonus 555 Yellow
24-8768 6X 555 Green
24-6549 8X 44 Green
24-8768 Getaway 555 Red
24-8768 Speed millions 555 Yellow
24-6549 Super jackpot 44 White
24-8768 Top red 555 Red
24-8768 Top yellow 555 Yellow
24-8768 Top green 555 Green
24-8768 Right freeway 555 Yellow
24-8768 Special (x2) 555 Red
24-8768 Video mode 555 Red
24-8768 Random lamp 555 Yellow
24-8768 Extra ball 555 Orange
24-6549 Tach 1 44 White
24-8768 Tach 2 555 White
24-8768 Tach 3 555 White
24-8768 Tach 4 555 White
24-8768 Tach 5 555 White
24-8768 Bottom red 555 Red
24-8768 Bottom yellow 555 Yellow
24-8768 Bottom green 555 Green
24-6549 Shoot again 44 Orange
24-8768 Kickback 555 Yellow
24-8768 Tach 11 555 Yellow
24-8768 Tach 12 555 Red
24-8768 Tach 13 555 Red
24-8768 Tach 14 555 Red
24-6549 Tach 15 44 Red
24-6549 Shift 44 Orange
24-8768 Right return lane 555 White
24-8768 Left return lane 555 White
24-8768 Six bank bottom (x2) 555 Yellow
24-8768 Six bank middle (x2) 555 Yellow
24-8768 Six bank top (x2) 555 Yellow
24-8768 Supercharger 555 Yellow
24-8768 Red line mania 555 Red
24-6549 Start button 44
24-8768 4th gear 555 Red
24-8768 5th gear 555 Red
24-8768 Stop light red 555 Red
24-8768 Stop light yellow 555 Yellow
24-8768 Stop light green 555 Green
24-8768 1st gear 555 Red
24-8768 2nd gear 555 Red
24-8768 3rd gear 555 Red
24-8768 Tach 9 555 White
24-8768 Tach 10 555 Yellow
24-8768 Middle red 555 Red
24-8768 Middle yellow 555 Yellow
24-8768 Middle green 555 Green
24-8768 Tach 6 555 White
24-8768 Tach 7 555 White
24-8768 Tach 8 555 White

GI string 1 24-6549 Playfield 44
GI string 2 24-6549 Playfield 44
GI string 3 24-8768 Insert 555
GI string 4 24-8768 Insert 555
GI string 5 24-8768 Insert 555

Backbox 555 White
Coin door Should be orange not red 44 Red

Flashers
24-8704 Right bank flasher 89
24-8802 Supercharger flasher 906
24-8802 Insert flasher 906
24-8704 Left slingshot flasher 89
24-8802 Insert flasher 906
24-8802 Free ride flasher 906
24-8704 Left ramp flasher 89
24-8802 Left ramp flasher 906
24-8802 Insert flasher 906
24-8704 Left bank flasher 89
24-8704 Flipper flasher 89
24-8802 Flipper flasher 906
24-8802 Insert flasher 906
24-8704 Right slingshot flasher 89
24-8802 Insert flasher 906

Thanks guys for all the bulb advice! I've ordered a bunch of different types and am looking forward to trying them all out! I really prefer the warm yellow and soft lighting of the older pinball machines, but I'm curious, is there a general consensus that the original lighting on The Getaway is too dark for nighttime play? I see a lot of comments about trying to lighten the playfield and mine is very inconsistent right now, with areas that feel to bright because of LEDs and then corners and loops that are very dark and shadowy. My first concern is mellowing all my flashers and the over-bright bumper LEDs, but then after that I'll be trying to even out and perhaps brighten the playfield a little?

Hello all- I have gad my Getaway for about a year and love it- play it almost daily- Have any of you had issues with your slingshots failing? Mine quit working the other day- and I ran solenoid tests- they do work there- just do not work during gameplay- Any suggestions on where to start? Thank you

Personal preference for sure but i wouldn't give up my leds. But that's me.

Switch Matrix

Thank you Kobaja I printed it out and will investigate later when I am home from work-

Hey, you also had asked about the pop bumper lights...

Those are just LED discs that should pull out without anything needing to be changed or modified before putting a regular bulb back in the receptacle.

I think the ones you have are these: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-PBR555-B

Wedge or bayonet ends, and colours you can choose too. There are also different styles that will sit in the middle of the pop bumper body, plus some that have as many lights underneath the surface as on top and you can use those with clear pop bumper bodies.

I have these on my Getaway and don't mind them. Most all of the mods on my game came to me like that. I'm with you though on that I do like games to be as original as possible without getting too jazzed up. I like to see when I'm playing though so every bulb in every game I own is LED. Personal preference but hey, that's how I like em

New to the group.
Tried to installed two 12V strobes (link below)
KaiDengZhe 4pcs 4LED Red Blue Ultra Thin Sync Feature Car Truck Mount Surface Caution Emergency Beacon Hazard Flash Warning Strobe Light Bar 12-24V
https://a.co/d/bfmY1YM

connecting them to the beacon bulb or beacon motor, but looks like they don't get enough power, they barely turn on.
What I'm doing wrong??

I've put something like this on 2 High Speed pins and a Getaway HS2. I always use a separate power supply though.

He's one on my High Speed:

What kind of power supply and how do you connect to, so it will
light up the strobes together with the beacon

I usually tap the wire between the switch and transformer. Then install a 120VAC / 12VDC power supply (5A) off of the tap to power all my mods. I tap the 12VAC power to the beacon and run it through the coil side of a 12VAC/2VDC relay. The power supply runs through the power side of the relay.

Sounds complicated, but it's pretty straightforward. If you have a Pinsound board you don't need the relay.
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Hey where exactly does that piece go? back left top corner? Mine was kinda half attached when I got it and I'd love to see a picture of the proper placement.

perfect, thanks. somehow I missed one of the screw holes but I'll look closer now.

Did you fabricate that metal piece to accommodate your decal? As I have not seen that on most Getaways.

HS2.jpg.pdf

Just looked online and it does appear on other Getaways, so mine is missing since buying it 10 years ago. First time I've noticed since owning it. If I had the metal piece I would have most likely bought your decal. Nice job!

Hi Hawknole, I found the missing metal ball trap on Marcos webpage. I have ordered along with other parts needed.

Thanks for making the decal, as I just bought one!

Nick

Thanks Hawknole for the decal and fast shipping.

Cheers!

For the Getaway newbies, the topic of the ball trap brackets has been covered several times in this thread. If you don't have them, you can purchase from Marco's:
- Back left ball trap bracket | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10903
- Back right ball trap bracket | https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10904

I also sell decals for both of these brackets along with a variety of other mods for Getaway (some are listed in Pinside ads, but you can PM me for a full list).

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Saturday night. A good night for pinball. Finally rolled the scoreboard on my Getaway!!

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Nice! I wondered what would happen. Never got close myself though.

I've had my Getaway for 1-yr now too. The slingshots worked when I obtained the pb game, but they didn't have much power, but I thought that was normal on this pb. Then about 5-months ago I was looking at the underside of the pf and noticed that the links were broken on both slingshots. I'm pretty sure that the guy I bought the Getaway from didn't even know that the slingshots didn't work with enough power. Check out the links before looking for electrical issues - The solenoid test would show that they work ok if the links are broken because the plungers would still plunge but the action wouldn't get to the slingshot kicker without properly working links. The plastic part in the pic is the link (the pic also shows the link attached to the plunger). You can buy it for < $1 at almost any of the online pb parts vendors (but of course shipping kills you if that's all you buy). You can also buy the link with the plunger included for a few $ more. If you only buy the link, you have to deal with removing the roll pin that attaches the link to the plunger. You must drive (or press) out the roll pin with a drift pin of the appropriate size. I made a jig for this purpose to remove the pin, and cut off a piece of a nail (of appropriate dia.) to use as the drift. When I bought the replacement links, I checked the owner's manual and made a list of all the links in the entire pb game (there are a few different sizes) and bought enough to replace all of them in the game. I also bought a full set of replacement springs for the game, and a few other items, which then justified the shipping cost. I either bought my stuff from Action Pinball, or PB Resource. I'm sure Marco also carries the links. You might also want to buy a spare roll pin, in case you damage (or lose) the pin in the game while removing and replacing it in the plunger.

slingshot link (resized).jpg

I typically just replace the entire plunger and link assy. I like new parts!

So I'm doing some shopping and prepping to install the Donut Shop mod. I notice the wiring for the ball lock doesn't seem to be run correctly. The black sleeved wiring doesn't seem to be run in the right way. It's like they took a shortcut.

Anyone have photos and assistance on how that wiring actually runs?

Thanks, George

PXL_20220611_235954444~2 (resized).jpg

I hope this pic helps - It's how my Getaway wires are run, but no guarantee some previous owner didn't make change to it.

IMG_3496 (resized).jpg

Can you check and see if the center switch is mounted like this or in a line like the other 2 switches. Seems like they moved the center switch for some reason.

PXL_20220612_124523415 (resized).jpg

The switch mounting is correct just the routing of the wires need to go behind the wire form not like yours is.

Thank you! Need to remove that heavy duty cover since it's making it much harder to route the wires properly.

It looks like you will have to unsolder the wires, route the wires properly, and then resolder them. That black sheath, covering your wires is not present on my game - not even below the pf (I looked).

Whoever added that sleeve actually put a connector in so I don't have to unsolder anything. So thankful for that, not thankful for the sleeve and rerouting wires for no apparent reason.

Anyway - your problem is now solved. I've only had my Getaway for 1-yr, and slowly but surely I keep finding previous owners poor quality changes that I'm changing back to original factory conditions, or at least to good quality which should last for a few decades.

so has anyone done anything alternative for the cabinet side art? mine, like so many is faded and, honestly, the large logo is just kinda uninspiring. I have a friend who prints vinyl so could pretty much do anything I wanted for the same price as a set of new decals. I was thinking of maybe just a super cool Lambroghini Countach... maybe with a sexy woman in there...? might start with this image which looks so much like the art in the center...

59d47faf44320647df817bd590ba606f (resized).jpg

Maybe with a police car in hot pursuit?

Well, you could do a Countach but the car emulated in the game is a Diablo. A good clue to the car model is in the game's promo video where Steve Ritchie is driving is a Diablo (although he has never officially recognized any specific model for the car - I'm guessing a licensing issue). Besides that, from the front view the lighting arrangement and air intakes are clearly not Countach and better resemble the Diablo.