40in , 7 3/8, 36 1/4....just happened to have them handy

Fantastic! Thanks so much!

Picking up a Getaway in the next few days. Needs a few things I could use some advice on:

1. Needs new lights since many are burnt out or replaced with bad LEDs - any recommendations?
2. Haven't cleaned a playfield in awhile - this one is in very good shape, is using Novus still the standard?
3. The display has elements out along the right side, several vertical lines then a vertical block on the extreme right side - so could be a bad display, dirty connectors, or something else - any suggestions on troubleshooting it?

Sure there will be more once I receive it - hopefully today!

Search this thread for my LED guide. May need a few updates, but it will definitely get you on the right path. FYI, I support Comet 100% when it comes to pin LEDs.

Well, look what just arrived at my front door straight from Deutschland (that's Germany for my fellow Americans). Huge thanks and applause go to Peter at B&T Automaten for the quality he's delivered!
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Packing was superb and only issue with box was a very minor dent in one corner, but corners were well protected and plenty of cushion between the playfield and the box.
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Starting to get excited with just the protective paper left to remove.
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Just one word - WOW!
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Then, WOW! again.
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I cannot believe the finish on this - every square inch is as smooth as glass.
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Also, I can't believe just how much the oranges pop! Camera just doesn't do it justice.
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Picking up a Getaway in the next few days. Needs a few things I could use some advice on:
1. Needs new lights since many are burnt out or replaced with bad LEDs - any recommendations?

Comet 4smd non ghosting LEDs are the way to go. For the inverts I like to match color for color. Use Pink under all the yellow inserts. It makes them a bright yellow! Even in the tragic light. I like daylight frosted for the playfield

Many people like all white under the plastics others like myself, have fun with colors.

Mr_Tantrum
Making me jelly..
Your In For a ton o fun!
Looking forward to your in depth playfield swap documenting every single screw.
I’ll prob need it for when I loose my mind and go for it myself.

I'm already gathering data and learning the experience from those who have gone before me. I still have a ton of prep work and parts to order before I even undertake this. Will be several weeks (if not longer) before I hop to it.

CoasterG
I replied to your post but somehow goofed it up..
So In case you didn’t see it…
I highly recommend Comit LEDs
I color matched under the playfield color for color with 4smd non ghosting Lamps.
For yellow, use pink lights. They make a bright yellow even in the tragic light.
Frosted bulbs for under the plastics .
It’s your pin make it yours. Have fun with it.
There are Tons of add lighting effects you can use.

I just discovered I can shoot the ball by using the flippers.
How did I not know this?

There is a similar setting in the menu for shifting gears with the flippers instead of using the shifter as well. Not sure how that works exactly in video mode though come to think of it...

Getaway is a fun game, but I wish there was a little more to do in it. If someone came up with a Getaway 2.0 kit, I would definitely be in.

v2.0 is called a PinSound with Motion Control shaker.

I turn this feature off. I have more fun revving the engine and feeling the progressive shaker going up & down before launching a ball (see previous post regarding Getaway v2.0).

Ok so I need to replace my DMD since it has vertical bands out on the right side.

Been looking to see what the difference is between LCD and LED Color DMD is. Hard to tell in videos since many are just labeled Color DMD.. Plus only LED is in stock currently

So any photos, video links, etc would be appreciated.

Here is a video of my Getaway with Lit Kit Flippers that features the LED version of ColorDMD:

LED has better black and can be much brighter, but you are limited to the DOTS modes. LCD emulates dots and lets you use modes that apply smoothing to make the display look more like video. Personally, I prefer LED almost universally, but it comes down to personal opinion.

LCD and LED can suit machines individually also i've found. Had a LCD on my JD machine which i think suits it well (general consensus seems to agree) but when that display was swapped to my FT i wasn't quite so keen. A guy i know has an LED on his FT and it looks better to my eyes.

I've got a color LED from them on my Getaway. I bought that because it was cheaper and looked more like the standard DMD format. I'm a fan, and I guess that's all they have right now anyway.
I'd vote that you would be happy with the LED version from them if you were to go with it. It's a little cheaper, and doesn't have any of the other settings, and it installs much easier.

That's what I've got on it at the moment...

Jeff

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I've had both LED and LCD, I prefer lcd many more options but the biggest issue I had was the led was so bright I was getting dizzy. I will say I wish the lcd fit like the led.

You know you can adjust the LED brightness, right?

LED is definitely my choice on Getaway. As you can see, owners are split so you pretty much have to decide which you prefer and just go for it.

Plus 1 for LED.

I just flat out like the LEDs better. People who have the LCD tend to use the SAI/EAGLE scaling mode and it looks so baddddddddd. Again, not a dig at ColorDMD, it looks terrible in everything including MAME.

I strongly dislike that mode also. Looks like a Kindergartener did the colorization with melted crayons.

Thanks everyone - decided to go with the LED, now if the ColorDMD store would just come back online.

+1 LED here also, given the era of the game. Brighter than LCD dots and more authentic looking.

of course, even the least bright was too bright

Just making sure as I run mine at about 75% brightness (believe me, I've done dumber things than not realizing a DMD has brightness controls).

Oh, I just now remembered as I was replying to your post that I also have an anti-glare layer installed on the inside of the DMD window which also diminishes the brightness of the DMD. Now that I think about it, this is probably why I don't think the LED version is too bright.

For those interested, here is the Comet DMD Glare Eliminator I use: https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/glare-eliminators

It installs on the inside of the speaker panel, prevents glare from the DMD reflecting on the playfield glass, and as stated above mutes the brightness of the DMD. Another side benefit is that it masks the LEDs that are turned off at any given time resulting in deeper looking blacks.

I have these on all my DMD games, absolutely brilliant! The best pinball mod on earth for $15, its like a little miracle!

I've never seen a Tilt Audio board before. In watching a video on their website I see/hear you can have my custom PinSound orchestration running on it. I guess it like PIN2DMD is to ColorDMD?

Next Sunday I’m bringing all 3 of my car pins to a car show at a race track to put on free play for people to enjoy. I expect getaway to be the fan favorite over checkpoint and viper and will hopefully get some good pics of it in action.

Not really interested in a deep dive, as I'm a PinSound apologist. Just wanted to learn a little about it.

Does anyone have a build log/videos/tons of pics of a playfield rebuild? Our project machine is completely stripped on the topside, but I’ve lost all of the video we shot of the disassembly process. I’m dreading re-assembly without some good reference material.

I should still have lots of pics. PM me a gmail address and I'll share a google photos album.

Edit. I just looked, Don't have as many as I thought but can share. Perhaps others will also.

Pinballs under the paddock was a lot of fun and got lots of people to stop by and play. It was a Porsche oriented FCP Euro event at Lime Rock Park so checkpoint was the most played but I know getaway made a few new pinball fans today.

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Very cool idea, and the pins look great!

Does anyone here happen to have measurements for the location of the playfield pivot nuts as measured from the bottom and rear of the cabinet? I'm working on a scratch build.

Thanks in advance for the help!

i've raced a few times at limerock with PCA club racing.

nice place.

great idea!

so I ran into an issue with my right flipper lane switch hitting the bell on the shooter lane kicker...new switch. I removed one fiber segment to get it closer to the wall of the cabinet, but as you can see if the flipper switch is activated while the ball is shooting (multiball lets say), it going to make contact...I have the frame of the kicker as close to the playfield as it can go. What have others done here...didn't have this problem prior to the restoration....

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Doesn't seem to make sense. Can you most a more zoomed out photo? Is the armature aligned with the center of the shooter lane switch slot?

Sure...going to try and shift the playfield to the left a bit as it is a bit to the right of center

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Mine was the same when I first got it. I shimmed the shooter assembly up to better align the shooter tip to the ball, which ended up clearing the switch. It was a pretty simple job.

so I was able to "shift" the hangers a bit, that gave me enough clearance to clear the switch...but man thats a tight fit...

I replaced the leaf switches with opto boards. There's a thread on how's to do that here. It's beautiful.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/converting-taf-flippers-from-leaf-switch-to-optical-boards#post-6725484

Look at the pic of my right flipper button leaf switch. My flipper button plunger which strikes the 1st leaf of the switch looks pretty much like yours in your pic. You can't see this from my pic since my pic's angle is 90 degrees to your pic, but the 1st leaf isn't what contacts the kicker plunger bell, and isn't the problem, so let's look at the 2nd & 3rd copper leafs. In your pic it looks like it's maybe the 3rd copper leaf of the switch which contacts the kicker plunger bell. If you look at my pic, you see that the top of the 2nd copper leaf of the switch is approx. 1" lower than the top of the 1st leaf, and the 3rd copper leaf is even lower. The 2nd & 3rd leafs in my switch are both lower than the kicker plunger bell so there's no contact and no problem. It appears that in your pic, the 3rd copper leaf is making the contact because it's at the same elevation as the plunger bell. If you can somehow lower that 3rd leaf so that it's lower than the kicker plunger bell your problem is solved, as long as the switch will still work. Maybe you have the wrong leaf switch in that location (you said that it's a new switch, so compare it to the old switch that you replaced). If you look closely at my pic, you can see a slight line across the back of leaf #1, about 3/8" below the top of that leaf. It kinda looks like at some time in the past, the insulation leaf between copper leafs #1 and #2 was higher than where it is now and the top edge of the insulation leaf made that line on leaf #1 - maybe the 2nd & 3rd copper leafs in my switch were relocated to a lower position in the switch because the same problem was present that you are now having. I've only owned my Getaway for 1-yr, and have found a few things that don't look exactly like the way they came out of the factory.

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Do you have the correct flipper button installed? Should be a 1 1/8 inch in length, not 1 3/8 inch.