That was it! Thanks a million for saving my sanity.

Here's what I think happened:

Ball was sometimes getting stuck in left side in-lane.
I loosened and readjusted the plastics and posts in an attempt to fix the issue (which it seemed to do).
In the process, I knocked the top off one of the leds.
I removed the LED in the hopes that I could fix it (I could not)
I then had a hole were the LED was.
And I mistakenly had the sling kicker on the OUTSIDE of the rubber.
I think both those combined made it much easier for the ball to make it past the rubber.
And then nestle between the two posts and remaining LED. Even looking for it, it was very hard to see!

That was pretty much what I was doing as well but was ending up with the springs getting somewhat crushed. In looking at your pictures, it looks like the same thing happens to you (see the third photo in particular). I guess one could reach in and move the springs out of the way as one is moving the pf to horizontal but that seems tricky.

I had exactly this happen after hundreds of games. My son did it. Still no idea how.

Yes, the springs get crushed a bit, but moving the pf back to horizontal is no problem, and there's no need to reach in and move the springs. I just remove my brace, push the pf (while it's still vertical) back about 3"-4" (see pic) and then gently bring the pf back to horiz.

IMG_3285 (resized).jpg

If you get two balls into the supercharger at the same time, sometimes one ball will hit the other, cause it to go airborne into the hairpin, and jump over the ramp behind the back wall of the playfield. Williams released a service bulletin and a bracket to address this issue.

See page 14:
http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1992-fall.pdf

01-10903 is available from Marco:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10903

…and Mr_Tantrum makes a decal for it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/68#post-3410362

Thank you kyle5574 !

Might have a defective magnet.
No ohms in testing.
Anything else to check ? accelerator board ? and how/what to test , it's the right magnet enable 3 i suppose?

Can magnets be removed without having to unmount the whole supercharger ? Found this on an Australian forum but not very clear for me...

-------
I'm pretty sure they'll slide onto only one
side. You may be able to avoid removing the entire loop assembly if
you can remove the "Accelerator Tray Assembly" from the loop. Even if
you have to remove the entire ramp/loop assembly, IIRC, there are two
screws for the ramp entrance, two back left, and one or two on the
right "corner" of the loop that need to be removed and then it comes
out quite easily.
-------

Magnets cannot be removed w/o a substantial disassembly of the SC. If you think you have a bad one (highly unlikely), just swap connections from a "good" one to the "bad" one and see if the magnet then works. If it does, you have a wiring/board issue (although I would take the wire from the "bad" magnet and connect it to a good one to see if the issue remains).

Friend of mine has a NOS decal set he is ready to let go $225.00

image (resized).jpg

NOS? Wow, I'd wonder if that old glue still sticks... Good luck!

I was wondering that too so I checked, it’s still sticky

anyone with a new spare one or a very good used one?

The Getaway Ramp Lift Mech (B-11302)

*** I know marcos has it and some other places.

Item has been sold

Ive replaced all my plastics last year for the cpr kit and 2 are already broken.

Anyone has new spare?

221D0E72-03E0-4CC5-B782-96971BA0506D (resized).jpeg

25DE0042-838E-47C8-9E3F-11AE9DD92380 (resized).jpeg

In your first pic it looks like the lower screw hole was in the wrong place? Seems to be quite a gap there and appears to have broken like it had been under stress? That's assuming that the upper screws are still attached in that pic?

And probably tightened way too much. Maybe go and reverse every other screw half a rotation so you don't see more of that.

I've had my game for about 6 years now and have played it hard, yet have never broken a plastic. Like others mentioned, I'm thinking you have your screws too tight on them.

BTW, sometimes you can find individual replacements on eBay. There is also a looking for plastics / plastics for trade thread(s) on Pinside if you search for them.

Might have one... CPR... had a missing plastic in a set I ordered so they send me 2 of the missing Plastics and an extra complete set...
Just can't check till next weekend .
As Mr. Tantrum noted... maybe over tighting them

Send me a pic I might have one

Thanks everyone for your feedback.

Getaway is at my shop and my employee replaced the plastics.

I didn’t specify him not to over tight them, so my mistake here.

My friend is doing the resto on it, new decals and new playfield.

We will fix a few other things at the same time.

Anyone have a set of Resses' rails they're not going to use? ...Reese seems to have taken some time off...getting my playfield back soon and really don't want to use those cheap rails the factory use...

You may want to check that post and rubbers in that area too.

top bumper rubbers (resized).jpg

top bumper rubbers 2 (resized).jpg

Every so often my Getaway resets itself to factory settings (i.e. when I power it on it gives me the factory settings restored message). It did it tonight and the only thing I did was move it out of the way a little while I worked on the game beside it.

What I am wondering is what might be in the backbox among the connections and circuit boards that could cause this? A loose wire or connector or cable? Power supply or batteries issue? Something susceptible to physical movement of the cabinet?

Tonight when I went back into the settings after getting this message, it hadn't lost the time setting nor the high scores. The only thing that was back to defaults was it wasn't on free play anymore and my minimum volume override selection was back to default. That's it, so not everything, just some basic settings.

Any ideas?

Game was powered off most of the day but still plugged into the power bar. No power surges or anything else noticed in the house today.

ok, first off, when you turn the power off, it cuts power to all the game circuits, so having it plugged in, unplugged, surge protector or not, is irrelevant.
The batteries are there to hold the RAM settings, and the strangest part of your description is, that you get a settings default message, but the settings actually didn't default?? That being the case, it really seems that your RAM chip has errors. The fact that you moved the game across the floor a bit has to be coincidence, that contributing to problem defies all logic and nature in general. You can try to do a full RAM-clear first, or just replace the RAM. If you replace the RAM, use NVRAM, then the batteries can be eliminated from the equation too.

Thanks.

The reason I mentioned the game being off versus on is just because I was describing the circumstances I found it in. I leave my games off at the power switch underneath the cabinet when I'm not using them. I turn them on when I'm playing but otherwise they are off.

And I got the factory settings restored issue to occur again today. Same, only settings and pricing adjustments affected.

So when looking in the manual, it talks about what voltage is necessary on the RAM chip. It says you can check voltage at pins 26 and 28 and you should get 5+ volts when the game is on and at least 4 volts when it is off.

Can someone confirm which pins these are on the RAM chip? I think the number is starting at 1 to the left of the half circle mark and continues down counter clockwise to 14 and then 15 on the other side and up to 28. So 26 would be the 3rd last pin and 28 the last. And are these two pins where I should measure the voltage across? Or is that meant to read 26 or 28 against a known ground point? Wasn't sure if 26 or 28 was the ground on this chip or not?

41.png
Pins 14 & 28. RAM will hold memory with as little as 3 volts. However this test will not reveal any errors or bad writing blocks in your RAM chip.

I've been having the same kind of problem: A few months ago all the high scores disappeared (except for the highest score). Then more recently, some of the game conditions changed (reset). I've been working on solving other problems, so haven't looked into this issue yet.

My friend just started my getaway resto after finishing my fishtales resto.

Just a heads up for someone who wants to purchase the germain playfield. Sry don’t remember the brand.
Its missing some holes.

D5F4F8C4-743E-447B-BEA9-76C38D830DF8 (resized).jpeg6B1350C0-561A-4ABB-B846-DEF1EB7EC926 (resized).jpeg14DB4FCA-555D-4895-B8BE-ACCE65FFACD1 (resized).jpeg2441BEFB-CC84-4AC2-92C6-BCA95F40B7F4 (resized).jpeg

At least they’ve added the dimples now. Mine is from the first batch and the holes shown in your photos were all pre-drilled. Looks like they’ve added the dimples but introduced some other omissions in the process. Not a big deal though, you get comfortable measuring and drilling holes fairly quickly.

What are the dimples?

i don’t understand

Likely BuT Hamburg.

Well look who popped hi

All those little dots where holes are to be drilled and/or fasteners (i.e. screws) are to be positioned.

I had my batteries moved off board soon after I got it and the off board battery holder isn't very good quality. They don't maintain full contact with the batteries all the time. This is why I was losing my game settings.

I discovered that my game was set for automatically removing the high scores to date from memory every 2000 plays, and then starting over again. I have now changed that setting to removing the high scores from memory only when done manually.

Regarding the batteries in my game, see the pic. It seems to me like the battery holder is fairly high class - I wonder if this is the factory setup?

I forgot to include the pic in my last post, so here it is.

IMG_3313 (resized).jpg

Factory.

Looks standard to me...

inside backbox 2 (resized).jpg

I have a serious itch to purchase a new Getaway playfield from Peter at B&T Automaten in Germany. I was wondering if anyone here has already bought/ordered one, and if so what are your thoughts of the playfield in general (quality, durability, clear coat, coloring, accuracy, etc.)? How did your installation go, any surprises?

Mine arrived flawless.. no issues and the clearcoat is amazing ...took it to my clearcoat guy to see if it was viable to do more coating .... he refused....

The one you played at TPF was one of those B&T playfields.

And it was beautiful. Congratulations, BTW. I was told you won an award (I wasn't there Sunday).

Just wanted to give a shoutout to Mr_Tantrum for his mods and PinSound Mix (with shaker) on my Getaway that no doubt contributed to my "Best of Show" award at Texas Pinball Festival.

I have to say that I've always been very pleased with my Getaway and thought I had one of the top quality ones out there. Then I saw the Getaway that TheCapn brought to TPF. It was beautiful in every way, inside and out (I especially liked the red color he chose for the armor). Knowing that I will probably keep my Getaway forever given it was my first pin, and seeing what it could look like with a new playfield in it, the new playfield itch became serious.

Just gathering some info via the Getaway group and a couple of professionals I know to make my final decision. I know that I won't regret it, just trying to be confident in my purchase and ability to get the job done.

Luckily my playfield is in great shape ...just grabbed the extra in case ....
They do beautiful work you won't be disappointed.

Have you ever done a PF swap?? Getaway is the the LAST one that should be your first! Just fair warning...

The Getaway is easy. Centaur on the other hand....

No, I have not, but I'm fully aware of the challenge and will not be going into this project lightly if I decide to move forward. However, I have access to a couple of highly experienced local professional pinball restorers and am consulting with them. I have great relationships with them (I make custom pieces they need for some of their restorations), and they are willing to advise and support me as needed. I'm also doing my best to prepare ahead of time as it relates to the parts required, processes, tools, etc.

Getaway may be easier than Centaur, but it aint easy! Cyclone is easy!

I ran into a couple of hiccups on my swap. My Getaway series points them out. Mainly just the lack of dimpling on the backside in certain spots and the thickness of the clear will hinder certain post holes.

Well, I just pulled the trigger on the playfield. Since the clearcoat is fully cured, I'm having them do a final sanding and clear coat which should make the surface as perfect as it can be. Will take an extra month or so before I get it, but I'm not in any hurry as this will give me plenty of preparation time.

Thanks for everyone's input.