I know you probably think that i disagree with everything you post or say Mr T but i do believe that the colour red fades faster due to UV light not the air. Have a great Christmas and safe and happy new year

I was using a little hyperbole on that one (difficult to discern in a written post). I know UV degrades it, but there are so few originals out there without faded graphics it seems like there are other environmental causes. I just think overall the red ink used at the time was chemically flawed.

Only one i have ever seen in person not faded at all and looks brand new is the one i found in the mountains

Yeah, I've never paid more than 4k for any of mine. Pinball is fun and all but...

I bought my Getaway game in May 2021, and it had some RED COLOR FADE (and a few small scratches) on the cabinet artwork. I'm not a restoration enthusiast, but I do like the game to look presentable from a few feet away (which is how all my guests who play the game see it). I used an artist's brush to hand paint a couple of very small repairs (of white and red), and I used a black sharpie in a couple of places, and a red fabric sharpie to go over some of the faded red - the fade covered more than just a very small area, so I would draw a line of about one inch long (with the sharpie) and then immediately (before it dried) rubbed my finger into the ink to spread it out to cover a somewhat larger area (I think I may have licked my finger before spreading out the ink to make it spread better). I did this several times to cover the area, having to redo some of the areas to make the whole larger area blend together. I used masking tape to contain the red ink to where it belonged. The result was a fairly uniform deepening of the red color to improve the color contrast in the artwork. I surprised myself with the improved quality of the finished look (just don't get too close to inspect it and see imperfections). I tried to upload pics, but for some reason the upload attempts all failed.

My cabinet definitely had lots of fade in the reds, also the normal bumps and bruises as you would expect for a machine of this vintage.

I sanded and painted the cabinet in a satin black automotive finish with a hardner added to thoroughly cure the finish and installed the new decals. It was a lot of work but I'm happy with the end result. I also painted the front door and backbox hinges a black metallic.

IMG_20211225_200453 (resized).jpg

Looks really sharp. What decals did you go with? Link to where you bought them?

Nice work!

I agree, would like to know where you bought your decals as well. Looks like you bought new side rails too.

Was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the switch for the up down ramp?
5647-12001-00

I’ve looked everywhere I think only Germany is where I found it
Sometimes I get the up down error and sometimes I don’t
It seems to act normal in gameplay completely but the switch doesn’t register in test
Really weird was just going to replace that switch
Everything else in the row test fine

Since we are in the subject of decal fade,was wondering how mine fairs
I guess this one got lucky?
I think it looks pretty freaking good I always thought the white faded ones were normal and that was the way it was supposed to be.
I agree somewhat with the thought that red sometimes fade from just the elements ,I have a documented HUO EATPM that is beautiful inside and out all original BUT for some reason one of the piping pieces on the head “faded “ over time
The piece is original and there is no reason for it to have turned a different color
I always thought that the “air” just faded it
I don’t give a crap but I always thought it was odd

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I think your Getaway colors are quite strong. My reds were all pink except for the cabinet parts under the legs that weren't exposed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/93#post-3542432

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/93#post-3529916

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/93#post-3543413

Damn man nice

I don't remember that switch being anything special. Can you just buy another blade type micro switch and bend it? Generally you can also move the actuator onto a new switch.

Huh,ok you got me thinking

I bought the decals probably close to two years ago and installed them last year due to extra time on my hands dealing with Covid, I'm finally getting around to try to finish it & I did install new side rails from Pinball Life.

I found the decals through this this forum, I can't remember his name, but he does graphic's and had done this title previously, I think the pinball thing is a side line for him; if I can find his information I'll post it. I remember him saying the decals have a UV protector to guard against future fade.

Not fucked up at all! Getaway is a great game very underrated and so much fun. Always a blast to play.

I thought I would try again today to show what the sides of my cabinet look like after some red sharpie repair as per my post #11755, for which my uploads of pics wouldn't go through, so I'm trying again here, and I think you can see the pics this time. Not perfect, but looks pretty good (if you're more than 2 feet away) - no one who has played my game has ever seen another Getaway game to compare with. It's kinda like improving the looks of a car to be a decent looking daily driver rather than a show piece. I did try to also show a closeup pic (from a few inches away) so you could see the imperfections, but the upload attempt failed several times (????????).

Getaway side cab.pdf

Getawaycab leftside.pdf

The errors shown in test mode don't always give completely correct information. A few months ago the test in my Getaway showed a diverter problem along with all the supercharger opto's, but I found a short with the wiring to the diverter, which when fixed, eliminated all the errors in the report. Also, yesterday an error popped up for the diverter again (this time only the diverter). I found a short in the wiring to the opto on the supercharger entrance ramp, which when fixed cleared out the error message. The error message usually gets you into the ballpark, but apparently you must look at related items too.

Now that I’m paying attention the ramp does get confused at points in the game
I gathered that from it going up and down several times
You can still access the lock when your supposed to cause a switch will trigger it up
In test the switch is there but sometimes not
I’m thinking flaking switch
Found one Action Pinball has them

You are right though I had several errors which turned out to be one wire that came loose from a switch

I’ve seen other pictures of this switch for the back ramp up/down wires different

Green black on the bottom tab diode on the side tab
Mine has Green black on the side diode bottom
Was wondering if this matters on this switch

I found a old hand written repair ticket in this game stating that the diode on this switch had been changed
I ordered a new one just was wondering if this wiring is correct

image (resized).jpg

My game also has that occasionally, but I'm convinced this is a software thing and not a flaky switch. If you find something else that reliably fixes this, please let me know.

Tough to tell from that pic, but take a look at mine. Yours looks wired different.
IMG_3401 (resized).JPG

A few pics of mine.

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E001C053-FF62-4AE2-83AF-3DDDF9668657 (resized).jpeg

But if it was software, then everybody would have the same problem.

Ramp test can help diagnose:

• If the ramp physically fails to go up and down reliably, then the problem is either mechanical or something with the two ramp solenoids.
• If the ramp reliably goes up and down physically, but the test sometimes fails to report the correct current position, then the ramp switch is faulty.
• If the ramp test works reliably, but the ramp is flakey in-game, then you might have a switch matrix problem involving right orbit switches (if the game thinks the right orbit switch is closed, then the ramp will go up when it is supposed to be down).

In my case, the ramp physically went up and down reliably, but the test sometimes reported it as being down when it was up (or the other way around—I forget). My ramp switch was broken.

For me the issue was a broken solder joint. Everything looked good visually and was making physical contact usually, but vibration would cause separation and intermittent failure. I reflowed all of he solder points on the switch (wires, diode, etc.) and has worked perfectly ever since.

Hey Guys need some help getting error fuse 114 and 115
I change the dmd driver board i got short on the original one the 114 fuse burn every time I boot the machine 115 is ok
Anyone can help?

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Check this out, it may help...

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

I’m no expert but I bought mine with that error. Yes , it was broke. From what I learned, that error can mean just about anything . My limited educated guess is you have a board issue. My recommendation is to contact Clive at coin op cauldron, send him your MPU and CPU board at least and have him do his magic.

Oh this is a new board, do you still have the original? Was there an issue with that as well? If it were me, I would reach out to Chis Hibler, https://pinside.com/pinball/community/pinsiders/chrishibler he may be able to repair your original board, he does great work... just a thought

I solve the issue it was burnt fuse I also put brand new driver board it was issues with the old board now I don't have any flipper all switches got error from f1 to f5

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-check-f114-amp-f115-error-troubleshooting

You can read up on troubleshooting the F114 and F115 fuse error here. Lots of good advice and approaches to figuring out where exactly the problem is.

Mine ultimately was related to the coil for the supercharger diverter arm being in backwards and shorting out to another component next to it.

speaking of which, what is the correct orientation of that coil to keep it out of harms way...

Doesn't matter. Whatever works works. I reversed mine to keep it clear of contact. In addition i added insulation tape to the contacts, just to be sure.

I love my Getaway, after all it was my introduction into pinball as the first game I ever purchased. The game has so much going for it, and I've always loved the theme (what guy at some point doesn't fantasize about being chased by the police in his high-performance supercar?). However, one thing has been missing from the this pin . . . until now. Part of the visceral experience of being chased by the police are those rapidly blue and red flashing lights coming from behind you permeating your entire field of vision. Your heart is pounding, your mind is racing, and your senses are overwhelmed.

A couple of weeks ago EStroh recommended that I install a lightbar topper on my Getaway, as he's done it on both his High Speed and Getaway pins. After chatting about it with him, it sounded like a good idea so I decided to go for it. Up to this point he had wired his into the beacon light using a relay so that it fired whenever the beacon light was on. However, I had a "take it to the next level" idea.

For those not familiar with the PinSound Motion Control shaker, it is a must have in my opinion as a companion to the PinSound board itself. I remembered that the Motion Control board for the shaker also has an additional relay built in that can be controlled based upon sound events. You can close (turn on) the relay selectively by pairing it to any sound(s), set it up to 10 seconds, repeat it up to 10 times, and set a pause between repeats. Connecting the lightbar this way opens it up to all sorts of possibilities. I was able to program the lightbar to fire based on multiple events in the game (e.g. running the red light, redline mania, various police callouts, jackpots, end of the game, etc.)

Upon getting everything installed, programming and tweaking the relay events, and playing several games, I absolutely love it! It adds a whole new immersive experience when playing the game. Overall, the parts needed and installation are fairly straight forward and probably a 4-5 on a 10 point difficulty scale, so just about anyone can do this DIY in an hour or less. For those interested, here are the prerequisites, parts required, and installation instructions to install the way I did. If you don't have a PinSound board and Motion Control Shaker but still want to add a lightbar, then I'm sure EStroh would be happy to post instructions for wiring it to the beacon light if someone requested it.

PREREQUISITES
- One of the following PinSound Audio Boards: PinSound 1 (v1.3/1.4 - v1.2 is not compatible), PinSound Plus, PinSound Neo
- PinSound Motion Control Shaker with Control Board
- One of my PinSound Getaway orchestrations (or anyone's orchestration that follows my folder naming convention if you want to use my supplied pinsound.config file with shaker and relay events pre-programmed): https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway
- My modified pinsound.config file with relay programming (or you can do your own), just PM me with your email address if you would like me to send you a copy AT NO CHARGE.

PARTS REQUIRED (ABOUT $50 ASSUMING YOU ALREADY HAVE ALL OF THE PREREQUISITES)
- 27" TeddyTT Red and Blue Police Emergency LED Strobe Bar (or similar lightbar): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDD9GZH
- AC to DC Converter 12V Cigarette Ligher Socket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CTMJJTJ
- 2 x Woodscrews to secure lightbar to backbox (not included with lightbar)
- A short jumper wire (optional)

INSTALLATION | DO ALL OF THIS WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED FROM WALL SINCE THE SERVICE OUTLET IS HOT EVEN WITH THE PIN TURNED OFF
- Disconnect the white coupler that joins the wires from the power/control piece to the lightbar.
- Remove the screws and extra brackets that come pre-attached to the lightbar as you will not need them. You will have to remove one of the endcaps from the bar to slide all of the screws out of the channel, but this is simple and non-destructive as the cap is secured by a few small screws.
- Remove the two support brackets from each side of the light bar secured by the two silver screws on each side, and reverse the brackets so they are pointing outward. You can actually keep them inward, but when turned outward they are a perfect fit for aligning the lightbar to the backbox width and easier to screw down.
- Test position the lightbar in front of the beacon light and align such that it is parallel to the front of the back box, then secure to the backbox using one screw on each side (the light bar brackets should fit perfectly in the width of the backbox).
IMG_6870 (resized).JPG
- I chose to rotate the lightbar at an upward angle then lock in with the two bracket screws on each side. When initially pointing directly forward the lights were blinding to me, but the slight angle is perfect. As a FYI, I'm 6'3" so depending on your height you may prefer less or more angle.
IMG_6871 (resized).JPG
- Next, run the cable around the back and through one of the vent holes at the top of the backbox. You may have to loosen or remove one of the screws inside the backbox to give you enough flex in the grate to feed the wires through.
IMG_6869 (resized).JPG
- Now connect the controller to power and run that wire up through the back of the cabinet and into the backbox. To do this, plug the AC to DC converter into the service power, plug the lightbar cigarette controller into that, run the wire to the back of the pin and up into the backbox.
IMG_6872 (resized).JPG
- You'll see the controller has two switches on it. The one with the red light is the power, and the other is the toggle switch for changing modes. The good news is that whatever mode you select is always recalled even after power loss (I actually turn my pins off at the wall switch, so this is a major plus not having to reset modes every time). My personal favorite pattern is in the animation below, but you can set yours to whatever you like.
IMG_6873 (resized).JPG
- At this point you should have both ends of the cable in the backbox with the white plugs on the end. Now you want to remove the red lead from each connector using a small pin or screwdriver while leaving the black and yellow wires attached to the connectors. Once you remove the red wires, then go ahead and couple the connector with the black and yellow wires. Optionally, instead of removing the red wire pins from the connectors you can just cut and strip the wires. Once everything is hooked up, I suggest covering any exposed connections with electrical tape or heat shrink (not pictured).
IMG_6874 (resized).JPG
- Next, you will connect the red wires to the relay on the motion control board. The red wire coming from the power/controller goes into the IN A (far left) port and the red wire leading to the lightbar goes into the OUT A (far right) port. Since I left the pins in my wires, I used a short jumper wire to hookup the OUT A connection (you can directly connect the IN A without a jumper wire since the lead fits into the slot).
IMG_6875 (resized).JPG

FINISHING YOUR SETUP
- Plugin your pin and turn on your switch for the lightbar. The red light on the lightbar control should be illuminated, however, the lighbar will not turn on yet because the relay is open.
- Remove your PinSound USB drive and place it in your computer. Navigate to the orchestration folder containing the orchestration you wish to apply the lighbar programming to.
- Delete the pinsound.config file in that folder (assuming it is one of my orchestrations or another that uses my folder naming convention), then copy the pinsound.config file you get from me in its place.
- Replace the USB into your PinSound, power on your pin, and select the orchestration (if you have more than one installed) with the new relay actions applied.

HIT THE GAS, DON'T LOOK BEHIND YOU, AND PLAY SOME PINBALL!

Here's my lightbar topper connected to my PinSound Motion Control fully installed . . .
IMG_6876.JPG

And here it is in action!
Getaway Lightbar.gif

great job !

So does the original beacon work as originally designed? I would think so as you havent disabled the controller to add the additional lights right?
I have a low ceiling in my basement and this could be an alternative...

Yes, original beacon is untouched and works as normal. The lightbar is in addition to anything the beacon does.

Not for me... however, I like the creative ideas some come up with.

For you, I'd recommend always on mode - ha!

@Mr_Tantrum... I've purchased many of your very cool mods.

The light bar isn't for me as it blocks the beacon and I don't like bright flashing lights in my eyes. Other will love it tho

Hey Kerry, I apologize as I was just ribbing you and meant no offense. You're a great guy and active here in the forum, so thought I would harass you a little. Sorry, but my jocularity doesn't always come through in posts, as hard as I try.

On a serious note, I don't expect this mod (or any of the mods I sell or offer as a DIY) to be for everyone and take no offense if someone is apathetic towards it, doesn't like it, or even openly criticizes it.

Also, if someone likes the lightbar concept but not facing the player, it is possible to conceal mount the lightbar on the backside of the backbox at the top and either point upward towards the ceiling or towards the back wall. All of the flashing lights bouncing off the ceiling and walls would still deliver a cool effect. I can even see myself remounting mine at some point this way.

Mr_Tantrum

I have your Donut Heaven and decals and made all the difference in refreshing my 20 year old Getaway. Also spent several hours getting every incandescent lamp to work on the machine like it should. All worth it for one of the best pinballs ever.

I got a hold of black rose he had 1 of his mods left from 2012 he was selling .Its hooked into a box that u can choose 3 differnt patterns on the lights,not crazy bright either.

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Not to get off this blinding topic but is that Rick's.. errr Carl's hat I see your in your pic?

And I'm digging those beer tap handles, nice collection!

Lol it is also his gun and LUCILLE ......had walking d3ad for years in high speeds place

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Ha- Ha, I think I see some bits on Lucille! That's a great game too...

On an odd note, my Marine son has been based in Belle Chasse for about a year, never knew anything about your town until then, pretty nice spot you have there. Happy New Year!

EDIT: Oh snap, you have a flux capacitor too?!

Have great new year to all us PINHEADS not many around here lol, yes that came from bobs prop shop in texas he got the rights to the movie and makes a select number of the exact replica flux capacitor.And for an insane amount of money he will make u your own time machine providing u get the delorean to him. Very cool website
.

No speeding 2022

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Happy new year to all
I need some help I lost the flippers and got error check switch from f1 to f5 e.o.s can some help?