(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

7 years ago


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  • 11,683 posts
  • 474 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 235 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

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  • L2 162 votes
    52%
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    34%
  • P7 9 votes
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(Multiple choice - 313 votes by 312 Pinsiders)

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There are 11,683 posts in this topic. You are on page 234 of 234.
#11651 23 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Don't worry, you shouldn't be expected to. Search functionality isn't good once threads get so many pages to them. Yet dedicated threads per issue isn't the norm here it seems.
That post is factory, or at least soon after the first few machines got out there. Made that loop too easy without it. Lots of variation on post placement as well as how the rubber rings are in on the game. It makes it your own though so do as you wish. There's no originality police coming to your door anytime soon.

False, Star Post Police are on their way... GL!
Red Upper no blue flasher light (resized).jpg

1 week later
#11652 17 days ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Star Post Police

I would have gone with a clear post with a comet “flame post light”

#11653 16 days ago

Getting closer on mine. The last thing I’ll do is change that incorrect target, man it bothers me.

I grew up playing High Speed. Haven’t really played Getaway. I maybe put 10 games on it since I got it and then started the rebuild. Hope it holds my attention like High Speed did as a kid….

2AD63A00-807B-429B-8268-522E80BB30A4 (resized).jpeg
#11654 16 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I would have gone with a clear post with a comet “flame post light”

I've tried that, the only issues I have with the clear posts and the color star post led lights is that you can see the segmented lights more easily and it's a little more harsh to me. The color matching posts and lights blend a little bit better for my taste but, having said that I did use bright white under color star posts as sling flashers...

#11655 15 days ago

Finally finished the reassembly on mine. Has a few switch issues, nothing I can’t work through. Plays like a beast! Nothing like a freshly rebuilt machine…

Boss lending a helping hand…

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#11656 15 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Finally finished the reassembly on mine. Has a few switch issues, nothing I can’t work through. Plays like a beast! Nothing like a freshly rebuilt machine…
Boss lending a helping hand…[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Enjoy

#11657 13 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Here's a followup to my post #11435 of 3-months ago regarding trouble with the rotating dome light reflector. The reflector would often hesitate a bit before it started rotating, and occasionally not rotate at all. I thought I fixed it by unplugging and replugging all the wire connectors from the power board to the rotator motor, but that fix only worked for a few weeks and the problem started up again. I now recently replaced the #1156 bulb with an LED bulb of 3 watts (I think I read somewhere that the OEM bulb was 9 watts). Both the bulb and rotator motor are on the same circuit so more current is now available for the motor and it now works great. There's no hesitation during startup and it has run smoothly every time during the 50 or so games since the LED bulb went in. Hopefully I won't be discussing this matter again.

Tried the led and seems to have corrected my rotation problems.

Thanks for posting .

#11658 10 days ago

Does any one have a file ready to print with all inserts on?

thx

#11659 10 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Does any one have a file ready to print with all inserts on?

? Not sure I understand what you are asking for. Like a photo pf the PF, while all inserts are lit? or a PF photo that shows all insertsnot covered by ramps? Do you need this for LED config? MAny ways I can help you, but none i understand

#11660 10 days ago

This is what I printed for my F14 based on a file I got from a pinside user. Water decals.
Looking for a printfile for the Getaway inserts

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#11661 9 days ago

Moving on to the next problem with my Getaway game, I'm hoping someone has some good advice for me:
My supercharger always seems to work very well, but the diverter seems to work well only approx. 9/10 times; on the 10th time, when the ball is about to exit the supercharger oval track it hits the diverter door as it's closing and then rolls down the supercharger entrance ramp, usually back to the flippers, and occasionally the ball hits the leading face of the closing diverter door and falls down onto the plastic by the leftmost jet bumper. I've tried re-setting the diverter shaft base into different positions in the collar where it's held into position via 2-set screws, but the best position I've found gives results as described above. I've tried the supercharger time test (T.13) with results of 99-122 (the manual says that if it's above 145, there may be a problem). On the 9 of 10 times that the diverter works ok, I've noticed that sometimes the diverter door closes well in advance of when the ball approaches to divert the ball back to the left flipper, and sometimes the door closes just barely in time before the ball arrives, but again it properly sends the ball to the left flipper. My next attempt to solve this will be to replace the coil sleeve and spring on the mechanism. I'm wondering if I should expect the diverter door to close at the proper time 100% of the time, or is something less than 100% acceptable? I also have a Mata Hari pb and the saucer eject mechanism properly sends the ball to the left flipper 95% of the time (5% of the time it's SDTM), but I thought that it should be 100%, but could never make the perfect adjustment to achieve 100%. I posted this issue on the Mata Hari Club forum and many of the repliers said that their saucer eject didn't even work properly 95% of the time, so I shouldn't complain. Any suggestions/comments on solving my diverter issue will be greatly appreciated.

#11662 9 days ago

golfergordy
Check the wires behind the gate. I’ve had them hang up the diverter.

#11663 8 days ago

Hapidance,
Once (a few months ago) when I was cleaning the outer loop of the pf beneath the supercharger (which is a difficult area to access) I accidentally bumped into the wires connected to the diverter, and an error code came up the next time I booted the game up, and the diverter worked 0% of the time, until I corrected the wiring problem (which cleared the error code) that my pf cleaning caused. You didn't indicate in your comment if your diverter problem was the same as mine or not (my diverter always works, but sometimes the door closes either too soon or too late).

Now, my diverter works 100% of the time, but 10% of that time the diverter door doesn't close at the proper time (but it almost does). A possibility is that the ball spins around the supercharger oval either too fast, or too slow, and the ball doesn't sync properly with the timing of the door closing. Another possibility is that a worn coil sleeve or spring (or some other mechanical problem in the mechanism) is slowing down the mechanical action of closing the door. I suppose that there's also the possibility of an electrical component issue that's messing up the timing of the diverter door closing so that the ball isn't always diverted to the left wire return ramp to the left flipper, as it should.

I'm hoping that someone has had the same problem with their diverter and can tell me what their solution was.

#11664 8 days ago

Mine has the same problem, but for now, I just live with it. I’ve replaced the sleeve and all that, but it still misses about 10% of the time.
One suggestion I was going to look into was that maybe the coil stop is magnetized and can make it sluggish, but I don’t currently have the gumption to take the supercharger apart again. Maybe you do...

Jeff

#11665 8 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Moving on to the next problem with my Getaway game, I'm hoping someone has some good advice for me:
My supercharger always seems to work very well, but the diverter seems to work well only approx. 9/10 times; on the 10th time, when the ball is about to exit the supercharger oval track it hits the diverter door as it's closing and then rolls down the supercharger entrance ramp, usually back to the flippers, and occasionally the ball hits the leading face of the closing diverter door and falls down onto the plastic by the leftmost jet bumper. I've tried re-setting the diverter shaft base into different positions in the collar where it's held into position via 2-set screws, but the best position I've found gives results as described above. I've tried the supercharger time test (T.13) with results of 99-122 (the manual says that if it's above 145, there may be a problem). On the 9 of 10 times that the diverter works ok, I've noticed that sometimes the diverter door closes well in advance of when the ball approaches to divert the ball back to the left flipper, and sometimes the door closes just barely in time before the ball arrives, but again it properly sends the ball to the left flipper. My next attempt to solve this will be to replace the coil sleeve and spring on the mechanism. I'm wondering if I should expect the diverter door to close at the proper time 100% of the time, or is something less than 100% acceptable? I also have a Mata Hari pb and the saucer eject mechanism properly sends the ball to the left flipper 95% of the time (5% of the time it's SDTM), but I thought that it should be 100%, but could never make the perfect adjustment to achieve 100%. I posted this issue on the Mata Hari Club forum and many of the repliers said that their saucer eject didn't even work properly 95% of the time, so I shouldn't complain. Any suggestions/comments on solving my diverter issue will be greatly appreciated.

Quoted from golfergordy:

Hapidance,
Once (a few months ago) when I was cleaning the outer loop of the pf beneath the supercharger (which is a difficult area to access) I accidentally bumped into the wires connected to the diverter, and an error code came up the next time I booted the game up, and the diverter worked 0% of the time, until I corrected the wiring problem (which cleared the error code) that my pf cleaning caused. You didn't indicate in your comment if your diverter problem was the same as mine or not (my diverter always works, but sometimes the door closes either too soon or too late).

Now, my diverter works 100% of the time, but 10% of that time the diverter door doesn't close at the proper time (but it almost does). A possibility is that the ball spins around the supercharger oval either too fast, or too slow, and the ball doesn't sync properly with the timing of the door closing. Another possibility is that a worn coil sleeve or spring (or some other mechanical problem in the mechanism) is slowing down the mechanical action of closing the door. I suppose that there's also the possibility of an electrical component issue that's messing up the timing of the diverter door closing so that the ball isn't always diverted to the left wire return ramp to the left flipper, as it should.

I'm hoping that someone has had the same problem with their diverter and can tell me what their solution was.

My SC runs in the the low to mid 80's and rarely hits the diverter door, believe it or not, switching to new balls may help, at least it does for me... they can get magnetized and cause this issue.

If it were me, I would stat with balls and optos, and then go from there, maybe the spring on the diverter but they are a pain to work on.

#11666 7 days ago

I just found some old posts on this same topic (diverter door not closing fast enough): One guy replaced the coil sleeve with no improvement. Another guy added a flipper return spring to assist the spring at the coil to close the diverter door quicker, and that solved the problem. Coincidently, I just obtained 3-flipper return springs to have as spares, so that's what I'll try next. I hope to do this in the next week or so, and I'll report back with the results.

#11667 7 days ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

they can get magnetized and cause this issue

That please explain in detail. The ramp is stainless steel, so that's non magnetic. For interaction with the accelerator coils it wouldn't matter. What exactly would magnetized balls have to do with it that gate?

Unless you can properly explain this, i would say that statement is complete nonsense.

#11668 6 days ago

Hey tiltmonster,
Maybe you'll be happy (or not so happy) to hear that I just fixed the tilt mech. on my game (that I've had for 6-mos. now). When I bought it, the conical shaped weight was there, but the rod was broken, so I found a piece of rod in my junk pile, and put a thread and nut on one end and bent a hook onto the other end, and it works fine now. I'm not much for putting english on the ball by rocking the cabinet, so after about 25-games, I've only gotten one tilt warning so far.

My supercharger test gave results between 99-122. Does 80 (your test result) mean that your ball goes faster?, or slower than mine? I was thinking that my problem is related to the diverter closing too slow (or maybe it's the ball going too fast).

By-the-way, Sprudel had a good question about using magnetized balls??? Maybe magnetized balls will get speeded up or slowed down when going thru the electro-magnets on the SC?

Grangeomatic (Jeff)- I'll try to remember to check for magnetization of the coil stop, since I plan on replacing the coil sleeve & spring. The SC will probably have to come off for me to do this. If I do find it to be magnetized, I don't know what I could do about it anyway???

#11669 5 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Hey tiltmonster,
Maybe you'll be happy (or not so happy) to hear that I just fixed the tilt mech. on my game (that I've had for 6-mos. now). When I bought it, the conical shaped weight was there, but the rod was broken, so I found a piece of rod in my junk pile, and put a thread and nut on one end and bent a hook onto the other end, and it works fine now. I'm not much for putting english on the ball by rocking the cabinet, so after about 25-games, I've only gotten one tilt warning so far.
My supercharger test gave results between 99-122. Does 80 (your test result) mean that your ball goes faster?, or slower than mine? I was thinking that my problem is related to the diverter closing too slow (or maybe it's the ball going too fast).
By-the-way, Sprudel had a good question about using magnetized balls??? Maybe magnetized balls will get speeded up or slowed down when going thru the electro-magnets on the SC?
Grangeomatic (Jeff)- I'll try to remember to check for magnetization of the coil stop, since I plan on replacing the coil sleeve & spring. The SC will probably have to come off for me to do this. If I do find it to be magnetized, I don't know what I could do about it anyway???

The lower the time the faster the ball moves around the SC, I had a bummer accelerator board that was rebuilt and solved my slow SC times. I also bought a new board as backup that supposed to have tested times in the 80's.

#11670 5 days ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

That please explain in detail. The ramp is stainless steel, so that's non magnetic. For interaction with the accelerator coils it wouldn't matter. What exactly would magnetized balls have to do with it that gate?
Unless you can properly explain this, i would say that statement is complete nonsense.

That's a fair point and I don't have a concrete answer, perhaps it's the post on the diverter which is not stainless steel or perhaps it's just a coincidence...

#11671 5 days ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

That's a fair point and I don't have a concrete answer, perhaps it's the post on the diverter which is not stainless steel or perhaps it's just a coincidence...

Regardless I agree magnetized balls are not good. My gate also doesn'T work allt he time, through generations of balls and other interventions. When the balls do hit it, it is usually already on the return to the open position. It is rarely completely closed. The thing I could imagine would fix it would be a stronger spring (or a second or third one) on the plunger, if the coil still manages to hold it. If not, then a combination of stronher springs AND stronger coil.

MAgnetized coild stopp and plunger on the Assy might also me a cause. Changing coil stop and plunge MIGHT do something.

#11672 3 days ago

My ball launch plunger is VERY close to the right flipper button. I think when a ball launches, the large weight on the back of the plunger taps the flipper switch (causing a slight activation of the flipper). I'm going to replace the flipper switch with one that hasn't been so mangled, hoping it will sit closer to the cab wall. Any other ideas?

#11673 3 days ago
Quoted from Pinash:

My ball launch plunger is VERY close to the right flipper button. I think when a ball launches, the large weight on the back of the plunger taps the flipper switch (causing a slight activation of the flipper). I'm going to replace the flipper switch with one that hasn't been so mangled, hoping it will sit closer to the cab wall. Any other ideas?

Can you post a picture of that area looking down to give us a better idea of how close things are to one another?

#11674 3 days ago

I took off the apron on for the first time to do a little cleaning.
It really needs it!
One thing leads to another ….
In any case, is painting the bracket blue too much?
Before and after .

5C26C721-F2A3-47E5-8F0C-F55915F85E78 (resized).jpeg
#11675 3 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I took off the apron on for the first time to do a little cleaning.
It really needs it!
One thing leads to another ….
In any case, is painting the bracket blue too much?
Before and after .
[quoted image]

Looks nice...about to do a teardown...more stuff is to do...pffft

#11676 1 day ago

Looks nice...about to do a teardown...more stuff is to do...pffft<L

Are you going to make it another showpiece?

#11677 1 day ago

We'll see...I've seen some nice ones here...but ones tends to never recover those extra costs...

#11678 1 day ago

The more I clean, the more things I see wrong.
In addition to new flipper bats, Looks like I’ll be needing new EOS switch’s.
Or should I just buy the flipper rebuild kit?
This would be my first crack at rebuilding flippers.
I figure I can always beg for help…

0A8CA1D1-5EA7-4AE5-AA49-FEA7F3CA8208 (resized).jpeg92431AE0-F755-479D-809F-D1D8AC66F32D (resized).jpeg
#11679 1 day ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Or should I just buy the flipper rebuild kit?

Do that. And take a good look in the manual reagrding where all the parts go. in your picture the sprinfgs are in the wrong hole. surely the coild stops are also screwed. rebuild kit is the way to go.

#11680 19 hours ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

Do that. And take a good look in the manual reagrding where all the parts go. in your picture the sprinfgs are in the wrong hole. surely the coild stops are also screwed. rebuild kit is the way to go.

Yeah, I'd replace everything but he metal frame and it should probably last you a "lifetime" in home use. It's not a difficult rebuild in the big picture of the pinball world and the most difficult part is replacing the spring. You got this...

EDIT: I would clean and save the coil wrapper to use on the new coil, unless you want to print or buy new wrappers that are the correct color and original design.

#11681 12 hours ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

buy new wrappers

Where can I buy these? Been looking for a possibility for a long time. Up to now, without success.

#11682 11 hours ago

Sprudeldudel

Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

Where can I buy these? Been looking for a possibility for a long time.

I found them here:

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm

They print pretty much the correct size and color.
If you need the file(s) with the logo, copy the link and remove
the "_text" from the link to get the other file.

#11683 11 hours ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Sprudeldudel

I found them here:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/coil_wrappers.htm
They print pretty much the correct size and color.
If you need the file(s) with the logo, copy the link and remove
the "_text" from the link to get the other file.

I've used some of these in the past, and they worked well. I just printed them on colored paper, but you could also color the background yourself and print in full color.

There are 11,683 posts in this topic. You are on page 234 of 234.

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