(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

7 years ago


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  • 11,616 posts
  • 471 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by golfergordy
  • Topic is favorited by 231 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 19 votes
    6%
  • L2 162 votes
    52%
  • L3 10 votes
    3%
  • L5 105 votes
    34%
  • P7 9 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    2%

(Multiple choice - 312 votes by 311 Pinsiders)

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There are 11616 posts in this topic. You are on page 232 of 233.
#11551 33 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Perhaps a good excuse to buy a color DMD.

I'm absolutely for a pin2dmd.

#11552 33 days ago

wamonkey
Mr_Tantrum
sound over screen .
Listening to some of mix’s I can see your guys point.
I don’t know all that much about pinsound. I need to read more of how exactly it all works. I’ll need speakers and what else? How challenging is the install?

The wonky DMD is really bugging me.

When you first turn it on over half the screen is out.

I’m leaning twords replacing the screen but I don’t want to drop a ton of cash.
Fancy is nice but I’d settle for a moderately priced color DMD.
Used???
I suppose I would settle for less than the fanciest and save Up for the sound upgrades.

#11553 33 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Fancy is nice but I’d settle for a moderately priced color DMD.
Used???

No such thing exists ....

#11554 33 days ago

...well pin2dmd is half the colordmd....and its pretty well done...might even switch to it just for the Terminator alone...

#11555 32 days ago

Yeah, I've been interested in the pin2dmd as it looks like scenes can be improved. The lack of plug and play units and ready to go software makes me a little hesitant to the whole thing though.

#11556 32 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

The lack of plug and play units and ready to go software makes me a little hesitant to the whole thing though.

.

I went through this , had nothing but headaches, if they had plug and play that would be better for us who find it challenging..
Plus the 2 guys overseas were too much to deal with ...

#11557 32 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

wamonkey
Mr_Tantrum
sound over screen .
Listening to some of mix’s I can see your guys point.
I don’t know all that much about pinsound. I need to read more of how exactly it all works. I’ll need speakers and what else? How challenging is the install?
The wonky DMD is really bugging me.
When you first turn it on over half the screen is out.
I’m leaning twords replacing the screen but I don’t want to drop a ton of cash.
Fancy is nice but I’d settle for a moderately priced color DMD.
Used???
I suppose I would settle for less than the fanciest and save Up for the sound upgrades.

The orchestrations are immersive throughout game play, and there are 33 different ones posted for download (14 of them are mine, but there are other very good ones) - https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/category/22-getaway. Really makes the game fun, especially when combined with the PinSound shaker (again, I'm a little biased since I'm the one that developed the OEM shaker routine for Getaway). Can't say enough about this mod, but you must upgrade your speakers too in order to get the full effect of the music (the OEM speakers are crap and are mono, not stereo sound). Thus, you are looking at a fairly significant investment. You don't have to go with name brand speakers if you don't want to (you could spend less than $100 to get a decent set), but you will need the stereo wire harness from PinSound if you want the install to be simple. I currently have PinSound speakers in my Getaway, and they are a very nice upgrade.

I know there are always budged considerations, but at a minimum you would need/want a PinSound Neo, speakers (backbox and cabinet), and the stereo harness. Great options to have are the headphones station for having external volume control and orchestration changes (you can have more than 1 on your USB drive at a time and switch between them), and of course the PinSound shaker.

As far as the DMD goes, I had a PIN2DMD in mine and like it even though the colorization still needed a little work. I bought a DE JP (I've since sold it) that came with a ColorDMD. There is a great PIN2DMD colorization form JP, so I swapped them and now have a Color DMD in my Getaway. It takes some technical savvy, but thus far I prefer the PIN2DMD but at least the ColorDMD colorization is complete.

#11558 32 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

wamonkey
Mr_Tantrum
sound over screen .
Listening to some of mix’s I can see your guys point.
I don’t know all that much about pinsound. I need to read more of how exactly it all works. I’ll need speakers and what else? How challenging is the install?
The wonky DMD is really bugging me.
When you first turn it on over half the screen is out.
I’m leaning twords replacing the screen but I don’t want to drop a ton of cash.
Fancy is nice but I’d settle for a moderately priced color DMD.
Used???
I suppose I would settle for less than the fanciest and save Up for the sound upgrades.

So I have the Pinsound board and Pinsound speakers and it is amazing, I saw you can now get the volume controls and change the mixes. I don’t know if my board is new enough to do that because I would love that….

I use Tantrums mix and it simply makes the game amazing. The game is just the perfect mix of game play sound and lights. I just love the video mode with Matrix music and the red beacon spinning!

I have a color DMD in Getaway and installing PIN2DMD in my lethal weapon 3. Before I got Pinsound I didn’t know if Getaway was a keeper so I installed a red DMD I pulled from my Stern Star Trek and that was very good. You can pick that stuff up probably for $100-150 on Pinside.

If you want to get by there is probably a ton of orange displays you could get for $75-100 pulled from machines for the color upgrade. All of us who have pinballs likey have one on the side just in case it is needed.

I could probably sell one of my old Orange displays even that could work for ya…

#11559 28 days ago

i joined the club about 2 weeks ago

when 3rd ball gets locked it says suspect ran red light but only one ball gets released

after drain the second ball search releases another ball

switch test shows all 3 work manually and with a ball, also fine when another ball or 2 is present

im running L5

what next? is this a known bug?

#11560 28 days ago
Quoted from pineal:

i joined the club about 2 weeks ago
when 3rd ball gets locked it says suspect ran red light but only one ball gets released
after drain the second ball search releases another ball
switch test shows all 3 work manually and with a ball, also fine when another ball or 2 is present
im running L5
what next? is this a known bug?

Not a known bug to my knowledge.

I would be looking closer at the "disappear post" and coil that drives it. Maybe that coil is trying to release the balls for you but is stuck or impeded somehow?

#11561 28 days ago

Had this issue with mine ... adjusted the switch blades and i was fine ... but check disappearing post as well

#11562 27 days ago

post checks out, no binding or anything, coil sleeve looks good.

it faded quickly in continuous test mode. started strong but much weaker after about 3 activations and by six was intermittent. time for a new coil.

thanks for the tips!

#11563 25 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

I'm not a member yet...but hopefully someone here can help me out. I am starting on an HS2 scratch build. Would someone mind posting the height of the backboard? I can figure out the other dimensions based on the playfield.
Thanks!

4.0"

#11564 24 days ago

Thank you very much!

#11565 23 days ago

I put a color dmd in my machine finally. I can now understand why people say pinsound is the better bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong it looks nice, but doesn't feel as impactful as it does on my STTNG.

#11566 23 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I put a color dmd in my machine finally.

Prepare to sell it. Trust me.

#11567 23 days ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

Prepare to sell it. Trust me.

Yeah - I've been following your stuff. I had concerns about being able to not only source the Pin2DMD in the US, but if your package would become public. I would have no qualms replacing it and then using the sold ColorDMD funds on more pinball fun!

#11568 22 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I put a color dmd in my machine finally. I can now understand why people say pinsound is the better bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong it looks nice, but doesn't feel as impactful as it does on my STTNG.

If you want both but have to budget over time, I always recommend adding the PinSound first and then the ColorDMD. If you can only afford one, PinSound is always the preferred option, IMO. I'm assuming for home use, but if you were putting in a loud environment then I would flip my recommendation.

I've written long opinions on why I think this, but the gist of it is that the sound of the game is immersive to the game play and you hear it the entire duration of you game. However,, depending upon the title, you may only look at the DMD for a few seconds during game play and in between balls.

#11569 18 days ago

DMD saga continues…
I’ve been having some issues with my DMD . It’s mostly out till it warms up for a few hours and when it does it’s working about 0%. I thought I would take a look at the connections unplugged them and then plugged them back in and the screen is now a total mess. Any suggestions as to what I should try or where to start?

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#11570 18 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Any suggestions as to what I should try or where to start?

To my understanding it's dead and needs to be replaced.

#11571 18 days ago

Sprudeldudel
I wish I could find someone local with a spare I can borrow just to confirm.
All I did is unplug J606 and it back in.
But yes, I think It’s met its demise.
I’ve seen some of your work on the scenes you posted. They look awesome!
Now I suppose I need to make a move .
I’m leaning towards the pin2dmd looks like I cost a bit less.

#11572 18 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

DMD saga continues…
I’ve been having some issues with my DMD . It’s mostly out till it warms up for a few hours and when it does it’s working about 0%. I thought I would take a look at the connections unplugged them and then plugged them back in and the screen is now a total mess. Any suggestions as to what I should try or where to start?
[quoted image]

It's VERY EASY to plug the monitor cable back in without noticing that the plug is "shifted" on the pins. Take a close look and make sure you plugged it in correctly, and also that the ribbon is not upside down.

#11573 18 days ago

^^^agree with this. That glass is dying, but not dead, I think.
If it was dead, it would be blank, not gibberish. That looks like is dying (half out) AND getting bad data somehow (gibberish)

#11574 18 days ago

EStroh
I’m pretty sure everything is plugged in ok. There is a bit of a humm. It stops when I pull the ribbon cable.
The heat sink circled is very hot
Is that normal ?

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#11575 18 days ago

In case you decide to replace the board, check DMDlux at pinsound.org. i had an xpin board before that was difficult with pin2dmd. Swapped for the DMDlux and problems gone.

All my original boards are nicely packed and kept as spares. Don't have a single original in operation.

#11576 17 days ago

Mr_Tantrum
I’ve been working, ever so slowly, on a sign design I haven’t seen.
It’s a work in progress. Working on adding a spot for a comet light strip.
My nephew should be able to print it for me…
Thoughts?

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#11577 17 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Mr_Tantrum
I’ve been working, ever so slowly, on a sign design I haven’t seen.
It’s a work in progress. Working on adding a spot for a comet light strip.
My nephew should be able to print it for me…
Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure why my thoughts matter, but it's looking great (also a good alternative to the ball bracket that's in that position).

As far as the bracket goes, it will have to be printed in the orientation you show with supports. You could potentially rotate 90 decrees counter-clockwise, but not sure the rivets would come out right. If you made the rivets more spherical, then you could print rotated and w/o supports (i.e. the small base to the left of your image would be oriented to the bottom of the print).

My only other thought is why would anyone want to go to Berkeley, CA.

#11578 17 days ago

Mr_Tantrum
Berkeley CA ? Eeeww no.
That would be the actual NJ Parkway exit we take for the shore New Jersey shore ( nothing like the show) I’m East
Coast ; A Different kind of crazy.

#11579 17 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Mr_Tantrum
Berkeley CA ? Eeeww no.
That would be the actual NJ Parkway exit we take for the shore New Jersey shore ( nothing like the show) I’m East
Coast ; A Different kind of crazy.

Funny, just took that exit yesterday.....

#11580 17 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Funny, just took that exit yesterday.

Which coast?

#11581 17 days ago

East...NJ parkway exit 77

#11582 17 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

East...NJ parkway exit 77

I like my sign a lil bit better than the actual sign.

I must be blind!
I just noticed Toms River.
We’re practically neighbors.
I’m at end of Cedar Creek.

I’m having an issue with my DMD on a HS2.
Not sure if it’s the board , the display or both. I’d rather do sound bit it’s lookin like I have to deal with this first. Thinking of a Pin2dmd looks like I have to learn a ton of stuff first. I like a plug and play kind of option .
Don’t know if the board is worth sending to Clive for testing and repair or just buy a new one .

#11583 17 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

EStroh
I’m pretty sure everything is plugged in ok. There is a bit of a humm. It stops when I pull the ribbon cable.
The heat sink circled is very hot
Is that normal ?[quoted image][quoted image]

On the DMD, what side is the red line on for the ribbon cable? In that last photo, it is on the left. It should follow down and also be on the left in the connection on the back of the display.

#11584 17 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Mr_Tantrum
Berkeley CA ? Eeeww no.
That would be the actual NJ Parkway exit we take for the shore New Jersey shore ( nothing like the show) I’m East
Coast ; A Different kind of crazy.

Silly me, I looked at it on my cell phone and thought that was California in the background image instead of NJ.

BTW, I didn't mean to brush you off, but I did mean what I said. I'm in the camp that you should do to your pin whatever you like and enjoy, regardless of what anyone else thinks. With that stated, if you are earnestly seeking constructive criticism or need my help then I'm happy to give my opinion, as long as it is fully understood that it's just my opinion. Whether someone decides to take my solicited advice or not doesn't impact my attitude one way or the other.

#11585 17 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

On the DMD, what side is the red line on for the ribbon cable?

It’s on the left. Same as the display. I thought of that too so I tried to plug it in backwards on the display but it only goes in one way.

#11586 17 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Silly me, I looked at it on my cell phone and thought that was California in the background image instead of NJ.
BTW, I didn't mean to brush you off, but I did mean what I said. I'm in the camp that you should do to your pin whatever you like and enjoy, regardless of what anyone else thinks. With that stated, if you are earnestly seeking constructive criticism or need my help then I'm happy to give my opinion, as long as it is fully understood that it's just my opinion. Whether someone decides to take my solicited advice or not doesn't impact my attitude one way or the other.

I’m very open to input & open to good ideas .
I’m not sure what you mean by turning it 90 degrees…

#11587 16 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I’m not sure what you mean by turning it 90 degrees…

When printed do it in this orientation. However, those tine extensions will cause problems because there is nothing to support them. However, if you used spheres instead of cylinders, the round shape would print vertically in layers because of the progressive outcropping. Like the rivet heads on this post I made.
b825dc2d5df27bbe366ab905b844a153c19bfce4 (resized).jpgpasted_image (resized).png

#11588 16 days ago

Mr_Tantrum
I def like your rivets better.
I really like the look of the cross braces.

The “L” is to mount (glue, tape or snap) the sign on.
What if the “L” was omitted. Any recommendations as how to attach it to the sign?
Maybe print a groove of some sort on the back of the sign so that the arm end can slide into the sign piece?

#11589 16 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Mr_Tantrum
I def like your rivets better.
I really like the look of the cross braces.
The “L” is to mount (glue, tape or snap) the sign on.
What if the “L” was omitted. Any recommendations as how to attach it to the sign?
Maybe print a groove of some sort on the back of the sign so that the arm end can slide into the sign piece?

I think your model looks good, I was just trying to give some advice on how to print it w/o using supports.

To make it easy, 3D print a thin piece the shape size of the sign and just glue it to the bracket.

#11590 15 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:To make it easy, 3D print a thin piece the shape size of the sign and just glue it to the bracket.

I see what’s going on…
If I remove the rivets it should be straight forward to print. Probably wouldn’t really see the rivets anyway ….
Or
Print a top piece with rivets and glue it to a bottom with the “L” where the sign gets glued to.

Talk about over engendering a simple bracket !

#11591 15 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I’ve been working, ever so slowly, on a sign design

guessing if you have the mountain mod it will not fit !

#11592 15 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

guessing if you have the mountain mod it will not fit !

No mountain mod. Not yet anyway.
I’m making the sign from scratch so I would size the sigh appropriately so that it will fit .
I have a tendency to “over do things”
My nephew is the “3D printing” guru.
I just make paper mock-ups and have him figure out how to make it. And then I want to improve it…

The simplest thing to do i this case is to get rid of the rivets snd print the whole bracket in one piece.
( I really do like the rivets however)

#11593 15 days ago

Finally done a complete playfield teardown, top and bottom. Replaced all coil sleeves, new plungers and coil stops on the flippers, pop bumpers, and slingshots. Added some mods found on thingiverse and LEDs.

20211005_141405 (resized).jpg
#11594 15 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I see what’s going on…
If I remove the rivets it should be straight forward to print. Probably wouldn’t really see the rivets anyway ….
Or
Print a top piece with rivets and glue it to a bottom with the “L” where the sign gets glued to.
Talk about over engendering a simple bracket !

Just make your rivets spherical like mine and you can still print the same way I oriented.

#11595 14 days ago

Here's a followup to my post #11435 of 3-months ago regarding trouble with the rotating dome light reflector. The reflector would often hesitate a bit before it started rotating, and occasionally not rotate at all. I thought I fixed it by unplugging and replugging all the wire connectors from the power board to the rotator motor, but that fix only worked for a few weeks and the problem started up again. I now recently replaced the #1156 bulb with an LED bulb of 3 watts (I think I read somewhere that the OEM bulb was 9 watts). Both the bulb and rotator motor are on the same circuit so more current is now available for the motor and it now works great. There's no hesitation during startup and it has run smoothly every time during the 50 or so games since the LED bulb went in. Hopefully I won't be discussing this matter again.

#11596 14 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Here's a followup to my post #11435 of 3-months ago regarding trouble with the rotating dome light reflector. The reflector would often hesitate a bit before it started rotating, and occasionally not rotate at all. I thought I fixed it by unplugging and replugging all the wire connectors from the power board to the rotator motor, but that fix only worked for a few weeks and the problem started up again. I now recently replaced the #1156 bulb with an LED bulb of 3 watts (I think I read somewhere that the OEM bulb was 9 watts). Both the bulb and rotator motor are on the same circuit so more current is now available for the motor and it now works great. There's no hesitation during startup and it has run smoothly every time during the 50 or so games since the LED bulb went in. Hopefully I won't be discussing this matter again.

That's great information on your beacon light golfergordy! May I ask where you sourced your 3 watt LED bulb? Think I'll give it a go, as I've experienced the same issue on my beacon light too.

Thanks in advance!!

#11597 13 days ago

Nick I did find that dmd u need it let me know I will send it to u

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#11598 13 days ago

Here's the purchasing info (on ebay) for the LED dome light bulb I bought (see the images). The one I bought in Sept. and currently have installed is red and the specs show 3W and 300 Lumens, and this bulb seems a tiny bit less bright than the OEM bulb, but is certainly adequate. Some guys in this club, however, want the brightest dome light they can find. On Oct. 5th, I found another bulb (white light - specs showed 3 W and 500 Lumens) which I bought but won't receive for several weeks - this bulb should be 67% brighter (500 vs 300 Lumens) than the red one I currently have installed so I'll probably need to wear sunglasses after I install it.

Screen Shot 2021-10-06 at 7.08.33 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2021-10-06 at 7.07.56 PM (resized).png
#11599 12 days ago

I added The Getaway pb game to my small collection approx. 6-months ago and it gets plenty of play. 3-mos. ago I ordered a handful of parts, including (but not limited to) replacements for all the rubber and coil sleeves on the game. The existing flipper rubber was red and all the other rubber was white, and it all seemed well used and dirty with black smudges all over, but it all functioned properly. I replaced all of it with new black rubber, primarily for cosmetics and installed it immediately when I received the order. I also at the same time replaced the 3-flipper coil sleeves, and then noticed that the flippers had a tiny bit more pop. I have 2-adult sons who play the game regularly when they visit, and both confirm the slight increase in flipper power which increases the speed of the ball.

Now for the problem: The new black flipper rubber (on the left flipper) shows unusually rapid wear, considering only 3-mos. of play. I rotated the damaged portion of the flipper rubber around a bit so it now is on the drain side of the flipper and doesn't affect play (see pic). The balls appear to be in excellent condition and I often clean them off with a rag. I have also waxed the pf every 3-mos.

I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced rapid wear issues with game rubber (especially on flippers)?

Bad flipper rubber (resized).jpg
#11600 12 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

Now for the problem: The new black flipper rubber (on the left flipper) shows unusually rapid wear, considering only 3-mos. of play. I rotated the damaged portion of the flipper rubber around a bit so it now is on the drain side of the flipper and doesn't affect play (see pic). The balls appear to be in excellent condition and I often clean them off with a rag. I have also waxed the pf every 3-mos.
I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced rapid wear issues with game rubber (especially on flippers)?[quoted image]

Im curious where did you buy them?

There are 11616 posts in this topic. You are on page 232 of 233.

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