(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by wamonkey
  • Topic is favorited by 231 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

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    6%
  • L2 161 votes
    52%
  • L3 10 votes
    3%
  • L5 105 votes
    34%
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    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
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(Multiple choice - 311 votes by 310 Pinsiders)

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There are 11558 posts in this topic. You are on page 231 of 232.
#11501 41 days ago

Just want to make a note if anyone is searching this thread for solutions on fixing things that go wrong:

(1) The ramp was struggling to go up and down. When we lifted up the playfield and looked at the mechanisms that interlock with one another, they were not perpendicular with one-another. It turns out one of the housings bent either over time or when someone carelessly put the playfield down/back another time (probably me). Works just fine now.

(2) The ball locking mechanism near the 3 switches was releasing all three balls instead of one at a time, which was a huge issue when on multiplayer. Cleaning the coil sleeve and arm and adding a second spring to fixed the issue.

#11502 41 days ago

For High Speed, I created a 3d printed LED stoplight replacement.. This is needed when one upgrades to the Freeplay40 replacement ramp, but also it looks way better than the stock black brick even if isn't broken (which they usually are). Someone suggested at some point I should consider fitting it to HS2 as the the stock one is also quite large and brick like. I finally got around to fitting one just to see what it would look like. It does look comically small in comparison to the original. After a little getting used to it, the size seems to fit the scale of the rest of the game much better. Also it noticeable how much it opens visibility to the right orbit and tunnel shots.

For this to work on HS2, I would need to adapt the harness, but would keep everything else the same. Before I do that, I would like to get an idea of interest to know if it is worth the effort. Feel free to PM me directly, or add your thoughts here or to the dedicated mod thread;
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-led-stoplight

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#11503 41 days ago

I think you did a great job on the custom traffic light, but I prefer the larger scale since it's is a key part of the game rules. Definitely nice to have more options for Getaway owners.

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#11504 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Happy to do it when the animation is ready.

Sheesh, are those original cabinet decals? I thought my pin was in good condition but my goodness that looks awesome!

Yes, LED bulbs, color DMD and a few tasteful mods is the way to go. Enjoy!

#11505 41 days ago

That's all I'm doing I can't wait to led it

#11506 41 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I think you did a great job on the custom traffic light, but I prefer the larger scale since it's is a key part of the game rules. Definitely nice to have more options for Getaway owners.
[quoted image]

Indeed thanks. Your version has been the gold standard improvement for quite a while. Honestly I am not sure which size I prefer. Since I was in the middle of building HS orders, I figured it was a good time to see how it looked on HS2 before I pack the game up for a while.

#11507 41 days ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Sheesh, are those original cabinet decals? I thought my pin was in good condition but my goodness that looks awesome!
Yes, LED bulbs, color DMD and a few tasteful mods is the way to go. Enjoy!

I think they are based on his explanation of the pin. Isn't that incredible? I've not seen an original cabinet before that wasn't mostly pink on at least one side.

#11508 41 days ago

Also some kind of williams sticker by the left front leg

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#11509 41 days ago

I do have one error coming up on test at start up says check switch 75 midlock where is that at

#11510 41 days ago

The switch was hung up 2 more things I have L2 shoukd I upgrade worth it and I hate mylar they have 2 from the factory by the slings debating on taking them off

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#11511 40 days ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

I do have one error coming up on test at start up says check switch 75 midlock where is that at

That's the middle switch on the habitrail to the right, under the metal plate that hides the switches.

#11512 40 days ago

Yea I found it last night it was just stuck open it's all good now

#11513 40 days ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Also some kind of williams sticker by the left front leg
[quoted image]

Yup, that will do it, nice find!

#11514 40 days ago

Think I'm going to take those 2 mylar pieces off by the sling shots this weekend I've had great luck doing the freeze method

#11515 40 days ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Think I'm going to take those 2 mylar pieces off by the sling shots this weekend I've had great luck doing the freeze method

Good luck!

#11516 40 days ago

Made some flipper cabinet protectors for my machine. Fully laminated and removable. $15/pair if anybody wants some.

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#11517 38 days ago

Got this decal fashioned & on top of the metal piece, looks better

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#11518 38 days ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Made some flipper cabinet protectors for my machine. Fully laminated and removable. $15/pair if anybody wants some.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Those look nice. I was planning on placing an order in a bit from your pinside shop (being out of the country trying to do it all in one shot ). Will you be listing them on there?

#11519 37 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Those look nice. I was planning on placing an order in a bit from your pinside shop (being out of the country trying to do it all in one shot
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). Will you be listing them on there?

Being a quite heavy duty vinyl I am
Not that happy with the electrostatic adhesion. I am experimenting with a low tack glue. Yes they will be listed once I have sorted what glue to use.
Also working on NBA, WCS94, TOM and AFM ones.

#11520 36 days ago

Well took the mylar off from the factory by the slings went pretty good

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#11521 36 days ago

Next new rubbers leds are coming in Monday

#11522 35 days ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

Well took the mylar off from the factory by the slings went pretty good
[quoted image][quoted image]

Good job

#11526 27 days ago

Just restaurating my getaway. I have here a nice before /after picture. If there is interest I can upload bunch of pictures.

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#11527 27 days ago

Nice job load up some more

#11528 25 days ago

I visited pinwiki last night...getting the ever so fun WPC reset when hitting both flippers on cold boot. Seems to alleviate while letting the machine "warm up"

Reading the following voltages:
4.95v at TP2
4.90v at pin 32 of ROM
9.6v-9.0v from BR2 at idle
116v from wall as well as accessory port while machine is off.

Examined and re-seated: J101, J114, J116, J117 & J118 - didn't seem to have any poor connections or pins. Checked for tight grounded screws on the corners of the driver board and all seems good there as well.

The only thing I couldn't seem to figure out how to check were the flipper diodes...perhaps I'm just dense, but is there any way to test those without taking them off of the coil entirely?

Tried getting a min/max reading from 5v on TP2 a couple times when the machine would reset, but it might be too rapid of a drop/recovery to be detected with my multi-meter.

Would be interested to hear any other thoughts. Tempted to just pull it and replace LM323 but that seems like jumping a ways ahead...

#11529 25 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

I visited pinwiki last night...getting the ever so fun WPC reset when hitting both flippers on cold boot. Seems to alleviate while letting the machine "warm up"
Reading the following voltages:
4.95v at TP2
4.90v at pin 32 of ROM
9.6v-9.0v from BR2 at idle
116v from wall as well as accessory port while machine is off.
Examined and re-seated: J101, J114, J116, J117 & J118 - didn't seem to have any poor connections or pins. Checked for tight grounded screws on the corners of the driver board and all seems good there as well.
The only thing I couldn't seem to figure out how to check were the flipper diodes...perhaps I'm just dense, but is there any way to test those without taking them off of the coil entirely?
Tried getting a min/max reading from 5v on TP2 a couple times when the machine would reset, but it might be too rapid of a drop/recovery to be detected with my multi-meter.
Would be interested to hear any other thoughts. Tempted to just pull it and replace LM323 but that seems like jumping a ways ahead...

you do have to pull the diode to test them on coils...at least one leg, but you typically have to replace it (and they're cheap), but if it was bad, I think you would have other problems...have you replaced all your electrolytic caps on the PDB? espically that 5V cap(C4 I believe)?...

#11530 25 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

you do have to pull the diode to test them on coils...at least one leg, but you typically have to replace it (and they're cheap), but if it was bad, I think you would have other problems...have you replaced all your electrolytic caps on the PDB? espically that 5V cap(C4 I believe)?...

Nope - none of them yet. Is it typical to do across the board cap replacements? Or just kinda one at a time in targeted areas?

#11531 25 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Nope - none of them yet. Is it typical to do across the board cap replacements? Or just kinda one at a time in targeted areas?

Yeah at this age, replace them all....I will caution you though, replacing the 15000uf caps can be tricky, look up the youtube video that Chris Hibler put out on how hes does this...I use two soldering irons (well my desolder iron and a regular one) to remove them as they're snapped in and can easily cause damage if not careful....all the others come out pretty easy...Marco sells the 15K caps(dont use the snap in type), but I like to order from Greeat plains electronics for everything if he has them in stock...

edit, GPE has them in stock...

2 weeks later
#11532 12 days ago

Any tips on swapping out the old lens into the new traffic light??

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#11533 12 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Any tips on swapping out the old lens into the new traffic light??

Looking at the condition of those... Don't do it. Apart from that, i didn't manage to get them out and just ordered new ones. They are regular playfield inserts and really cheap.

#11534 12 days ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

Looking at the condition of those... Don't do it. Apart from that, i didn't manage to get them out and just ordered new ones. They are regular playfield inserts and really cheap.

Ahh is that right

Thank you.

#11535 11 days ago
Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

Ahh is that right
Thank you.

FYI, here is what you need (FYI, the yellow lens is actually orange/amber):

03-7642-12 | Insert - circle 1 inch orange starburst
03-7642-11 | Insert - circle 1 inch green starburst
03-7642-9 | Insert - circle 1 inch red starburst

#11536 11 days ago

Mr_Tantrum decals installed tonight. The playfield looks so much more finished now. I feel like this is how the pin should’ve shipped from the factory.

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1 week later
#11537 3 days ago
Quoted from JerodP:

Mr_Tantrum decals installed tonight. The playfield looks so much more finished now. I feel like this is how the pin should’ve shipped from the factory.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nicely done. Looks good. And I noticed one thing on your game that piqued my interest...

The way the star post or rings are arranged on the leftside of the left pop bumper. And specifically near the opening to the loop shot.

Mine has always been arranged differently. Not sure what is right or what is wrong or even if there is a right or wrong. Lots of variety here. What I do know is that when I removed the star post from where it was, which was impeding somewhat the shot to the loop area, it made the shot much easier to hit. And I intend to leave it out for now, but my question is actually for what to do with the screw hole(s) that were under that star post?

There are actually two small screw holes. Not sure why. The second, smaller one wasn't used, but was covered by the star post. The top edge around those screw holes is a little frayed and I would like to do something with that to ensure it doesn't get pulled on or peeled more than it is with the ball going over it or near it.

Any suggestions? I was thinking of placing a small, custom sized piece of Mylar directly over it and just sealing it down flat that way. Any other ideas?

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#11538 3 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Any other ideas?

Return the atarpost. Even tho it doesn't look like it, it is there by design. The loop was too easy without it, so it was added afterwards officially.

#11539 3 days ago
Quoted from Sprudeldudel:

Return the atarpost. Even tho it doesn't look like it, it is there by design. The loop was too easy without it, so it was added afterwards officially.

I don't mind that actually. Glad to hear it was put in by Williams going back to the early days. I put up a 964 million point game with that star post in... I don't think I'm someone that needs the game to be any easier Thanks.

#11540 3 days ago

Hmm...maybe I should remove mine - At one point I had the machine dialed in just right, but despite having cross referenced my leveling with the pinball leveling app I just can't seem to get that shot to flow like it used to.

#11541 3 days ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

Hmm...maybe I should remove mine - At one point I had the machine dialed in just right, but despite having cross referenced my leveling with the pinball leveling app I just can't seem to get that shot to flow like it used to.

I pulled mine out, I still clunk the shot all the time but my machine had a lot of geometry issues.

#11542 3 days ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I pulled mine out, I still clunk the shot all the time but my machine had a lot of geometry issues.

As in warped playfield?

#11543 3 days ago

crooked posts, mis-shaped ball guides, etc

#11544 3 days ago

Well, I’m gonna see how brilliant of a Getaway player I really am. I just put the post back where it was. Then moved the right outlane post all the way out. That’s the only one I see on the game that is adjustable. I then put the settings all to extra hard and lowered the tilt warnings down to one. Let’s see how hard really hard really is…

#11545 3 days ago

I made all the changes. Widening out the right outlane makes the biggest difference by far. And the kickback not relighting as easily as it used to is a close second. Totally different game set up this way.

#11546 3 days ago

I'm not a member yet...but hopefully someone here can help me out. I am starting on an HS2 scratch build. Would someone mind posting the height of the backboard? I can figure out the other dimensions based on the playfield.

Thanks!

#11547 2 days ago

Hi all. It’s been a awhile but my HS2 is moving along . Replaced almost all the lights with 4smd comet lights. They made a big difference .

Still have more to order…

I’m hoping someon can help me find a ramp flap 01-10478. Marco is out of stock and I haven’t been able to find one.

Also,
Having trouble with the DMD
Seems to need to warm up and slowly start working. Makes a buzzing sound…
Is the display going bad ? Perhaps a good excuse to buy a color DMD.

#11548 2 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Perhaps a good excuse to buy a color DMD.

best mod .... do it , makes the game so much better

#11549 2 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

best mod .... do it , makes the game so much better

PinSound is the best mod for Getaway, ColorDMD is a distant second (IMO).

#11550 2 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

PinSound is the best mod for Getaway, ColorDMD is a distant second (IMO).

Strangely I agree - Pinsound in this game elevates the game so much. Most games color DMD but not a getaway it’s the music and the mix….

There are 11558 posts in this topic. You are on page 231 of 232.

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