(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN


By MrSanRamon

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 9,863 posts
  • 366 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 hours ago by Mr_Tantrum
  • Topic is favorited by 169 Pinsiders

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“Which S/W Version do you use?”

  • L1 17 votes
    6%
  • L2 137 votes
    51%
  • L3 8 votes
    3%
  • L5 91 votes
    34%
  • P7 7 votes
    3%
  • C-C 7 votes
    3%

(Multiple choice - 267 votes by 266 Pinsiders)

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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 198.
#1101 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I just made another mod too, look for the topic DIY Leg Light-up

Gawwwwdd have i got MORE to add MP

#1102 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Gawwwwdd have i got MORE to add MP

You should see it in person, switched to 12v it lights up the coin door really nice.

#1103 4 years ago

Do you guys use your knee or your hand to shift up? I use my knee.

#1104 4 years ago

I use my hand.

It gets really fun when you have to shift while making the combo loops from the right upper flipper.

#1105 4 years ago

OK one hand and one knee, it's a tie so far. Anyone else want to chime in on the little survey?

#1106 4 years ago

Knee guy here

#1107 4 years ago

I shift from side to side, know what I'm saying....

#1108 4 years ago

We were in the club last night:

#1109 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Do you guys use your knee or your hand to shift up? I use my knee.

Definitely hand, i like to keep my reflex's in top shape
Isn't knee "almost" cheating?

#1110 4 years ago

Mostly knee

#1111 4 years ago
Quoted from KevInBuffalo:

We were in the club last night:
» YouTube video

That pop GI light being out would drive me nuts.

#1112 4 years ago

Thanks for the info all. I flipped my shifter switches today. Now I have to learn how to shift all over again

#1113 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

That pop GI light being out would drive me nuts.

It was pulled off route like 2 days before the show so a single light bulb out was acceptable

#1114 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Definitely hand, i like to keep my reflex's in top shape
Isn't knee "almost" cheating?

Not really ..... cuz when I'm drivin my Mustang I use my right knee to shift also.

#1115 4 years ago

I've got a Getaway to re-rubber. I presume I need to remove ALL components from the upper PF. How many hours should I set aside for that? Any shortcuts or pointers? Fine to do this in the cabinet, or will I be happier going rotisserie?

thanks!
-mof

#1116 4 years ago

Rerubbering doesn't require pulling the playfield out. Just remove what is needed to get at all the posts etc. Put aside a full evening or afternoon. If your looking at doing a good cleaning and waxing you might want to pull most of the upper playfield components off which will be a weekends work if your not quick at it.

#1117 4 years ago

I actually use the knee to shift when it tells you to shift but in video mode I just slam it up to fifth gear before the video even starts and go for it!!!!!

#1118 4 years ago

Taking the supercharer off is the way to go. I had a really hard time getting the superchargers wire harness molex connectors through the left orbit area. The wood is cut so only one connector can SqUeEzE through at a time. Definitely take the plastic off, and try to get the smaller connector removed first.

#1119 4 years ago
Quoted from boogies:

Taking the supercharer off is the way to go. I had a really hard time getting the superchargers wire harness molex connectors through the left orbit area. The wood is cut so only one connector can SqUeEzE through at a time. Definitely take the plastic off, and try to get the smaller connector removed first.

How are ALL the wires not molexed? Uggg...

Where can I set this while working on removing the parts below?

-mof

201508-Get-not-molexed.jpg

#1120 4 years ago

I can do THIS...
-mof

201508-Get-engine-up1.jpg
201508-Get-engine-up2.jpg

#1121 4 years ago

http://townsvillepinball.com.au/getaway-restoration/

Now THERE'S a sick cabinet restore from Hell and back again...
-mof

#1122 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I can do THIS...
-mof
201508-Get-engine-up1.jpg
201508-Get-engine-up2.jpg

That's one of the nice things about having an unfinished ceiling, all I do is drill a hole in a floor joist and run a wire through it.

#1123 4 years ago

Hmmm. This Getaway appears to have a very low play count, and yet I have mismatched coil stops. Doesn't add up. Which one is the correct one? This is L and R. Anyone know the correct dimension of the coil stop?
-mof

201508-Get-coilstop-L.jpg

201508-Get-coilstop-R.jpg

#1124 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

How are ALL the wires not molexed? Uggg...

Hmmm... Maybe that's why I had such a difficult time fitting mine through - mighta been an after market molex mod My supercharger had 2 molex connectors.

Quoted from mof:

I have mismatched coil stops. Doesn't add up

Since the right flipper gets used more, maybe the left is closer to new, and the right is worn down more?

#1125 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I've got a Getaway to re-rubber. I presume I need to remove ALL components from the upper PF. How many hours should I set aside for that? Any shortcuts or pointers? Fine to do this in the cabinet, or will I be happier going rotisserie?
thanks!
-mof

It's not too bad. Looks like you already got into it. I did it once and fumbled a bit with the supercharger. There are two connectors that you should disconnect first under the playfield so you can pull the whole thing off once loosened. I found all the ramps and wireforms pretty easy to remove. I put parts in bags and labeled everything so getting it all back together was easy. Make sure to clean everything while it is apart. I also cleaned up the ball trough best I could and under the apron. After doing that, the game stayed clean longer.

#1126 4 years ago

Anyone wise regarding the diverter? I cleaned up the solenoid assembly, and it still BARELY moves by hand. "Seems" like it might be mounted tight and have some lube in there. Really stiff. Is that by design? Any insights welcomed. I'll be waxing and putting it all back together in a few hours. Hope to have some ideas before then.

It was working fine, but it had a few quirks, here's the behavior I noticed:
1. AFTER a good supercharger the diverter wouldn't close ALL the way and would block shots
2. the diverter COULD open all the way and allow the ball to go to the left return habitrail.
3. Sometimes the ball would LODGE between the diverter and the wall and get stuck, then a "ball-find" would loosen it and it would fall to the plastics/pops.

I just now tried moving the solenoid assembly 1/16" just to help allow the diverter to move ALL the way left. Could that be enough to solve this? Do we care that it's REALLY tight and barely moves by hand (but moves ok by solenoid)

thx!
-mof

#1127 4 years ago
Quoted from jawjaw:

It's not too bad. Looks like you already got into it. I did it once and fumbled a bit with the supercharger. There are two connectors that you should disconnect first under the playfield so you can pull the whole thing off once loosened. I found all the ramps and wireforms pretty easy to remove. I put parts in bags and labeled everything so getting it all back together was easy. Make sure to clean everything while it is apart. I also cleaned up the ball trough best I could and under the apron. After doing that, the game stayed clean longer.

Yeah, I'm done with removing most of the topside and about 5 hours of elbow grease and Naptha. Polish and wax due up now.
-mof

#1128 4 years ago

My diverter was doing things like that. I thought it might have something to do with the spring so I bought a new one. Funny thing is that it seems to have fixed itself. Once in a while it doesn't open or a ball hits it as its moving but it is rare.

#1129 4 years ago

Polish/wax complete.
About to put this back together. Any wisdom out there on how to clean/adjust the diverter for ideal play?
-mof

#1130 4 years ago

As I thought -- it wasn't the solenoid assembly. I'll have to take the diverter apart and do some cleaning I suppose...
I notice that when the solenoid fires, it pulls the diverter snug, but then it eases back out 1/4" or more when the action is done.
That's the flaw.
-mof

#1131 4 years ago

20150824_121044.jpg
Yeah the stuff was gunky as hell.
Mof

#1132 4 years ago

Fixed. Like night and day, I can't see a good reason to have any grease in that system at all. It's too much like a flipper assembly.
-mof

#1133 4 years ago

WOW that's bad, is that a plastic sleeve in there.

#1134 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

WOW that's bad, is that a plastic sleeve in there.

Lol no, just oily gunk. Plays snappy now that it's clean -- I had no idea it was supposed to only zip around 3x then shoot up the left ramp -- neat stuff!
-mof

#1135 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Lol no, just oily gunk. Plays snappy now that it's clean -- I had no idea it was supposed to only zip around 3x then shoot up the left ramp -- neat stuff!
-mof

So it's metal on metal? I'd put a light coat of white moly grease on it then.

#1136 4 years ago

I sometimes get a loud HUMMM when the diverter opens up wide left for the supercharger. Not every time... Is that normal behavior?
mof

#1137 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I sometimes get a loud HUMMM when the diverter opens up wide left for the supercharger. Not every time... Is that normal behavior?
mof

I have my Getaway cranked with a sub so...I really don't hear anything but the music when playing but...yes...in test mode, I'll hear an almost EM solenoid engaged bzzzzzzzzz when the diverter is fired.

#1138 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

I have my Getaway cranked with a sub so...I really don't hear anything but the music when playing but...yes...in test mode, I'll hear an almost EM solenoid engaged bzzzzzzzzz when the diverter is fired.

Yep, that's the sound I hear. It's solenoid hum.
-mof

#1139 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Yep, that's the sound I hear. It's solenoid hum.
-mof

Wouldn't worry about it. Check out some of the supercharger tests on youtube. Especially that crazy awesome dude BLACKROSE. You'll hear the solenoid engage.

Note that I did, also, have my supercharger completely apart when cleaning. Ugh...I couldn't wait to go back to an EM.

#1140 4 years ago
Quoted from dtown:

Wouldn't worry about it. Check out some of the supercharger tests on youtube. Especially that crazy awesome dude BLACKROSE. You'll hear the solenoid engage.
Note that I did, also, have my supercharger completely apart when cleaning. Ugh...I couldn't wait to go back to an EM.

The only part of the game I haven't cleaned topside is the inside of the supercharger. Is there any shortcut there? What is the inside surface like? Is there any short cut? Can I pull something through it to clean it out? Is it easy, and I should just dismantle it?

-mof

#1141 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

The only part of the game I haven't cleaned topside is the inside of the supercharger. Is there any shortcut there? What is the inside surface like? Is there any short cut? Can I pull something through it to clean it out? Is it easy, and I should just dismantle it?
-mof

I pulled the stainless rail out of the three supercharger coils (along with a couple adapters) and unscrewed the six optos (senders and receivers). Used alcohol on the optos and let the three coils hang down the back (don't have a rotisserie). NeverDull'd the stainless along with some Mothers for polish and re-assembled. Careful with the Supercharger's plastic housing. After 25 years its plastic has become hard and brittle. No shortcuts that I can think of but I'm one of the those "gotta tear everything apart" guys. F*ck..I even replaced ALL the big caps on my HS2's driver board. Why? I don't know.

#1142 4 years ago

Just joined this club

#1143 4 years ago

Here's my before and after on a Getaway. I put in about a 25 hour marathon over 4 days.

* various fixes (reflowed stoplight pins)
* treasure cove lower/middle PF
* naptha/wax entire PF, and all metal ramps/parts
* cleaned legs and cabinet and inside cabinet
* cleaned all plastics and star posts
* cleaned diverter
* replaced all GI bulbs (working and not) with polished 44 bulbs
* new rubbers
* new sleeves for flipper solenoids, new flipper bats
* added spotlights, modern instruction cards, and blue cliffy post rubbers

-mof

BEFORE
201508-Get-PF1-before.jpg
AFTER
201508-Get-TC-waxed-spotlights-black-flippers.jpg

#1144 4 years ago

MOF... looks awesome!

#1145 4 years ago
Quoted from Meegis:

Just joined this club

Congrats! Great game to get!

Mof - Nice work getting all that done so fast. I just got my Titan rubber order in. Hopefully, I will have time this weekend to start digging into my Getaway.

#1146 4 years ago
Quoted from Meegis:

Just joined this club

Welcome to the club.

jawjaw, did you get a complete set for the game? What were the sizes and quanity of those sizes did you order. I'm sure others would like to know also. Thanks.

#1147 4 years ago

Cleaning my getaway.

Waxed the playfield.

Jason from tnt amusementsvideoes lets the game wait the nightover with wax on, ill doo that too. Hope it comes out shiney tommorrow.

Nighty night guys

image.jpg

image_1.jpg

#1148 4 years ago

My game has l2
Is it wirth upgrading to l5?(is that the newest version?)

#1149 4 years ago

L2 is the best Rom

#1150 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

L2 is the best Rom

Agreed. I started out with L5 but that was very buggy. The game was often confused, especially in multiball. I upgraded to L2 and everything has been perfect. You also get the "run the red light" message in L2 that was removed in L5.

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There are 9863 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 198.

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