Thanks MR Tantrum....
I see you make it for a few of the games I own.
Looks like I will order a few when you get back in.
Package price right

It’s not my mod (I just did a custom light program for Getaway - free for everyone), but it is available for various pins in the Pinside market.

I ordered mine as a kit to save a little since I have everything I need to solder the components on the board, but you can order it as a ready to install mod.

Thanks for the information

Looking good.

For BasementFacts post #11381, regarding the shooter not propelling the ball fast enough for it to completely go around the loop so that it feeds to the upper flipper, I had the exact same problem with my Getaway, which I've now owned for about 3-months. I just read your post today and seeing your pic as well as other pics in the discussion, gave me an idea for a solution. I thought that if the tip of the shooter armature (while at rest) was a little closer to the ball, then there would be less friction between the armature and the coil sleeve when the armature is activated (by pressing the gear shift lever) to propel the ball, and therefore more thrusting force would be transferred to the ball so the ball should be propelled faster and therefore make it completely around the loop to the upper flipper. My solution was to increase the thickness of the rubber grommet which the back of the armature stops against when the armature is at rest. I found a grommet which was 7/32" thicker than the original grommet and installed it (see pics showing the original, and new grommets installed)- luckily the new grommet had a hole in it which perfectly fit over the orig. grommet so I placed the new grommet over the orig. grommet and glued the new to the orig. Also see the pics which show the shooter tip now being 7/32" closer to the end of the coil sleeve, which also makes it 7/32" closer to the ball. The ball now shoots out faster than I've ever seen it before and it always easily makes it around the loop to the upper flipper. Thanks to BasementFacts for posting this problem (as well as those who responded to it) which lit the lightbulb in my brain to solve the problem.

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I think you have the wrong armature/ plunger in there (and coil sleeve too it seems) here is a pic of mine

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It definitely looks like you have the wrong armature/plunger assembly. Also, to avoid confusion when looking things up, the ball launch is the "Kicker Assembly" and the left outlane ball save is the "Kickback Assembly". According to the manual on page 2-27 the correct parts for the "Kicker Assembly" are as follows:

Bell Armature Assembly is A-15709
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709

Coil Assembly is A-14789 (don't replace this if you have the correct coil - they rarely go bad, but you might want to purchase a new coil sleeve)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14789

Coil Sleeve is #03-7067-6
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7067-6

If/when making the repair take pictures of everything first and make sure you insert the coil sleeve in the correct orientation and the leads on the coil should be oriented towards the left/lower part of the playfield (many accidentally install this backwards - mine was when I acquired the pin).

Interesting...mine looks exactly the same as golfergordy I guess I should swap that out then. Thanks for linking the parts Mr_Tantrum

TBH neither of the 2 examples shown look correct. The coil sleeve should not be protruding through the hole that the plunger comes out of (monkfe's pics) and the bell armature is definitely too short in golfergordy's pics.
I've owned my Getaway for nearly 10 years and never had a problem with the kick assembly not making the loop

Finally found a reasonable and decent looking model in the right color. Seats are currently drying from the paint. This model had cream seats. Black they are now. Also, still working on the colorization in case someone is wondering.

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Mr_Tantrum's part number matches the one I have in the manual...and I just went and confirmed the measurement. 2.625 inches overall which is what marco lists it at as well....so I believe that is the correct sleeve

Yes, I actually replaced mine with these exact parts when I was having issues, and the plunger has worked flawlessly ever since.

Regarding the kicker problem discussion - I agree that I have the wrong sleeve in the coil, but the sleeve currently in there works (however, I did have to do a slight modification to make it work w/o any problem). Also, it appears that I have the wrong armature. The length of the correct armature, according to Marco, is 4-1/2”. My kicker armature is approx. 3-3/8”, and my kickback armature is identical. My guess is that someone in the past did a repair of the kicker mechanism and replaced parts with parts he had on hand, rather than order correct parts, or he ordered wrong parts confusing the words kicker and kickback. I also am wondering if someone in the factory might have run out of the correct armature and improvised on the assemble line – I have heard of this practice happening in a car assembly plant. At least my improvised repair seems to work perfectly and quality wise (in my opinion) is comparable to OEM standards, so I'm not in a hurry to get the correct parts installed. Thanks to all who contributed comments on this issue. Without this forum, I would still be struggling to find a solution. I still have 3 more small issues with my Getaway to deal with, so I'll be posting again in the near future.

I can assure you that does not happen. I built cars for almost a decade until the plant closed (Chrysler Newark,De) and it just doesn't work like that.
Maybe back in the 50s but not a chance in the modern day.

Yeah, not quite ISO/Six Sigma way of doing things.

Malenko
1) I owned a Ford Taurus built in the 1980's. I bought brake pads at a Ford dealer for it, but the pads didn't look exactly like the ones from my car. The guy selling parts searched the parts shelves and found a set of pads identical to the ones from my car so I bought them and they fit into the calipers properly. The guy told me that on rare occasion the factory runs out of the correct parts on the assembly line and then substitutes another part which will work just fine, which in my case was the calipers, and the substituted calipers were for the police car version of the Taurus. I don't know if the guy made up that story, but it sounded reasonable at the time.

2) In another example - I own a Bally Evel Knievel home model pb game that I bought brand new in 1978. To my astonishment, I discovered that a golfing buddy of mine owned the same game which he also bought in 1978. My buddy's game had a broken slingshot coil mounting bracket, and since he wasn't very handy at fixing things I went to his house and replaced the broken bracket. While I was doing the repair, I noticed that some of the hardware on his game (which is only visible when lifting up the pf) was different than on my game. I assumed that they occasionally run out of parts at the factory during assembly and just substitute equivalent parts which don't affect game play.

With the above 2 examples in my background, it seems reasonable to me that the Williams factory might substitute one kicker armature for another to keep the assembly line going. Also, since sparksterz stated above that his parts look the same as mine, I wonder if his Getaway was manufactured near the same time as mine, and the factory used the same parts substitution in both games. My serial # is 50004 090040. I hope sparksterz can tell us what his serial # is.

50004 851979

Upon second look of my assembly it is white but mostly flush with the protruding tip.

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I was just clarifying that it doesn't and cannot happen for at least the last probably 30 years at any US based Automotive plant. I started work at Chrysler back in 99 and even then all the parts were tracked with a computer terminal at each work station. The Ford parts guy was blowing smoke. /shrug

Obviously using a different part in a pinball isn't as big of a deal as using a different part in a car.

Back on topic....
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thats my coil and white thing

Now that's what mine looks like and there's no sleeve showing through the hole it seems

Edit* Ok it does on closer inspection..and so does mine just took the glass off for a closer look. The white end is grubby so it all looked the same colour LOL

Malenko - I agree with all you said. Where did you get the decal on the top of the bracket that covers on top of the kicker mechanism?

Probably 20-30 games have now been played on my game since I improvised a fix for my kicker's sporadic performance which had the kickback plunger (and incorrect coil sleeve) installed in the kicker mechanism, and it now works perfectly every time. I think I'll leave everything installed the way it is right now. Soon I'll replace the coil sleeve with the same incorrect one that's in there right now, but I'll also get the correct sleeve and see how it works with my incorrect plunger.

Also, thanks to sparksterz for replying with his serial #. sparksterz serial # doesn't look close to my #. I can't figure out how the serial # sequence works, other than the initial numbers (50004) seem to be the model # used by Williams for the Getaway game. I also checked on the Internet Pinball Serial Number Database site and knowing that 13K + units were manufactured, all of the serial numbers submitted don't seem to follow the same numbering sequence pattern. I have previously read somewhere that pb mfg. companies don't always use a serial numbering sequence that makes sense to a casual observer, but it probably makes sense to the mfg. company. Also, regarding sparksterz pics of his kicker, it looks like the tip of the plunger sticks out a bit beyond the metal bracket that holds the mechanism in place, similarly to the pics submitted by others commenting on this topic, so those pics probably show the correct plunger.

I replaced my shooter lane (kicker) armature recently too. My original was the white tip and the replacement was the black tip. It was working fine before, but since I have been chasing some mystery source of smudges or smears getting on the balls from time to time, I thought it might have been the culprit.

You can see the new black tipped replacement in the photo. Beside it is the kickback armature (plunger). It is quite a bit narrower at the end. I also put in a new disappear post for the spot where the balls lock as mine was a little rough on the end and I noticed it was holding some magnetism.

I have the same decal on the shooter coil cover. It came with my game though when I bought it. I did put in a Cliffy protector on that eject spot and you can see the tip of the plunger and the cover in the same pic.

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You guys may have overlooked sub contractors where it is quite difficult to prove the origin of the machine, and slight differences were used, (I ran into that problem with my Galaxy), Or Someone who does a almost "perfect" reproduction like I did with Getaway, something like that could be considered lack of experience/oversight on the builders part...My guess however It was either patched up by a coin/op to get it back on route, or owned by some blowhard know it all who just diddnt want to spend the money.

Reach out to Mr_Tantrum for that and other decals for this machine...he makes numerous ones...

Mr_Tantrum sells them. Such a small detail that makes a big impact.

For anyone trying to get more oomph out of their ball launcher, it's a good idea to reflow/replace the male headers and re-pin the 2 female connectors on the high current driver board that operates the coil. It's located under the playfield near the flippers if i recall correctly.

Fun to see my work appearing everywhere. For the Getaway newbies, you can see all of my available mods at http://thezumwaltfamily.com/pinball

Hi group,
I recently got my Getaway back after loaning it to a cousin for a few months. When I got it back, I noticed several files were no longer playing from my Pinsound card. Soon afterwards, I also had an error pop up... "shifter error". I went into single switch test and the up/down switches are working. Also, now whenever either flipper is pressed, it launches the ball. Does anyone here have an idea what may be causing these issues?

I won’t comment on the pin sound thing, but those other two are simple…

The shifter error will be because the game was played for at least 100 balls or 30 games and pressing shift down was never used. Meaning, your cousin always went with shift up.

If you play a game and go shift down, it will resolve the error.

Having said that, using the flipper buttons to launch the ball is an option in the adjustments menu. I don’t recall which number but it’s there. You can put it back to using the shifter and not the flippers and you’ll be good on both of those issues.

strange thing is, the setting to use flipper buttons for ball launch was already off, but doing the shifter reset undid the flipper button ball launching

Now to resolve the Pinsound Issue. Thank you for your comments!

HI Guys - I have a strange issue - sound. I am getting sound at the speakers but almost inaudible - I need to put my ear to the speaker to hear it...
So sound card is working, Rom is OK, ribbon calbe OK like i say, the sound is coming out, in a whisper... - any ideas what it could be? re-seated all connectors...

Check the ribbon cables again. For condition but also to see that they are clipped in correctly and no pins are sticking out the side or pushed over.

What volume setting is the game on? What happens when you press up or down on the volume buttons? Do you see the volume bars change on the DMD when you do this?

Thanks Alex - yeah, Ribbons have been checked more than twice.. I have worked on severall WPC'S and know this issue.
When the volume is changed - everything looks normal.

Update - the sound appears to be coming from the soundboard only?? very high pitched tinny background music...

It was a cable running to the subwoofer. Looked ok but was snapped in the plastic...

I had a problem with the dome light reflector not rotating properly during video mode, multi-ball, etc.. I would hear a soft crackling sound for a few seconds and then the motor rotation would start and continue as it should. Sometimes, though, it wouldn't start rotating at all. I measured the voltage in the wire connector leading to the motor while the game was playing (and the motor was disconnected but should have been running if connected) and it was 15.1 VAC. I traced the wires from the motor to the power driver board and measured voltages at every wire connector in the circuit. I unplugged each of the wire connectors in this circuit as I measured voltages and reconnected them all when I was done measuring. I then played the game and the motor worked perfectly. I assume that there was a weak connection in one of the connectors, and disconnecting and reconnecting it re-established good electrical contact. I again measured the voltage in the wire connector leading to the motor and now had 15.8 VAC vs. 15.9 VAC at the power board. I am only making this post to demonstrate how a problem of some equipment not working properly is often fixed by merely disconnecting and reconnecting one of the many multi-wire connectors found in decades old pb games. Most of the veterans out there probably won't learn anything here that they didn't know before, but newbies to pb might benefit from reading this post. I've only been in this hobby for a bit over one year with The Getaway: HS II being the 3rd game in my collection, and I love reading about simple fixes.

I turned my Getaway on earlier today and it showed a message saying the factory settings had been restored.

I didn't knowingly do this and wondered what might have caused this?

I turn the games off when I'm not using them. Getaway might have been off for 1-2 days max. I have it plugged into the same power bar as a Funhouse I just got. I have turned off the power bar several times recently as I have been working on things with the Funhouse. My batteries are still fine and the game kept the date and time settings, which to me is the weird part. It went back to the factory set-up, like losing the free play for example, but it didn't lose the date or time.

Any idea what might have caused this or things I should check to see if there is something else going on?

ok, here I go. I need help. I can't find a detailed schematic of how the back ramp attaches to the ramp. mine is welded and is not working correctly. I purchased the area and spring but when I opened it up I found this hack of a job where someone welded the pin to the arm. does anyone know what attaches to the arm circled in the photo, I need to order from Marco. thanks all

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It's a rod that slides into the ramp has threads on the end..I'll see if I cant find it at marco... but it's been discussed here in the past

ok great. thank you, they have two different ones on Marco but I always like to see the diagram. manual doesn't have that part

check your batteries, that was an issue I was having, changed them out and problem solved

is this it?

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Well, mine doesn’t look like that. But when you google for 02-4268 all the hits suggest that’s the right part. I just have the wrong part in mine.

Yeah mine is longer for sure, but that's listed for the getaway...I wonder if the shorter length prevents some hangups I get from time to time...

that's the issue I keep having and want to fix, I have a different one in mine as well, longer

Yup. that's the 1st place I'd look. Change them more than you think you need to when the machine is on...

Bathburg new playfield just shipped , can't wait he does great playfields

Giving it the benefit of the doubt, I changed the batteries today, but I don't think that was it.

And here's why... when I turned the game on and saw the factory settings restored message, it hadn't erased the time and date. Or the high scores. All of that was still in there.

I took the batteries out today and tested them with a battery tester. They showed fine, but I put fresh ones in anyway. Now, I did this with the game still plugged in, but not turned on. After replacing the batteries and turning it back on, not only did I go back to the factory settings again, but it gave me the bookkeeping audits erased message as well. And this time all the high scores were gone.

So... what do you think is going on here? First off, is that the recommended way to change batteries in order to normally keep your settings? (keep the game power plugged in but not turned on?) And what or why would the game factory reset itself but the time and date and other things weren't reset?

Curious behavior....

You need to have the game turned on to keep your settings when replacing the batteries.

I had the same problem. I fixed mine by replacing the short ribbon cable between the mpu and driver board

Good to know, thanks. Best be watching where your fingers go and not electrocute yourself while you're doing that then...