(Topic ID: 78179)

Getaway Club ~ Dispatch, run a make on license plate KINGPIN

By MrSanRamon

7 years ago


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There are 11398 posts in this topic. You are on page 228 of 228.
#11351 39 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Do not "polish" your supercharger, you will ruin it (trust me, I tried on my first one not realizing that any type of polishing compound will destroy the finish). You could probably have it "chromed", but may be cheaper just to buy a new one (about $70 at Marco Specialties).

Isn't it just stainless steel? Could have been the chromed one cant recall and cant find the pic...but ok either way...

#11352 39 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Isn't it just stainless steel? Could have been the chromed one cant recall and cant find the pic...but ok either way...

No, it is plastic with a plastic "chrome" finish (sort of like the chrome on today's plastic care interiors that will flake off). I think it is a vapor deposit of nickel, actually. My mistake was thinking it was metal when I tried to polish mine. I ended up painting it, but in the end bit the bullet and bought a new one.

#11353 39 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

No, it is plastic with a plastic "chrome" finish (sort of like the chrome on today's plastic care interiors that will flake off). I think it is a vapor deposit of nickel, actually. My mistake was thinking it was metal when I tried to polish mine. I ended up painting it, but in the end bit the bullet and bought a new one.

Ok my bad here as I think were talking about two different things, I'm referring to the actual supercharger loop, not the plastic imitation air inlet...

#11354 36 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Do not "polish" your supercharger, you will ruin it (trust me, I tried on my first one not realizing that any type of polishing compound will destroy the finish). You could probably have it "chromed", but may be cheaper just to buy a new one (about $70 at Marco Specialties).

Just to be clear and that we are all talking about the same thing...

The Super Charger is stainless steal the super charger cover over the 3 red lights is not, it's chromed plastic...

#11355 36 days ago
Quoted from tiltmonster:

Just to be clear and that we are all talking about the same thing...
The Super Charger is stainless steal the super charger cover over the 3 red lights is not, it's chromed plastic...

Correct , I thought I had seen someone send out the supercharger to get highly polished...was wondering cost etc?

#11356 35 days ago

Oh, that makes sense. Yes, you can indeed polish or have polished the metal loop. Not sure who might do it as a service, but should be a fairly straight forward DIY.

#11357 35 days ago

This came out great! Thank you Mr. Tantrum. I installed thin light strip on the bottom of loop instead of the top. Looks great

0CD4EB84-A03A-4535-BDDA-8242747F5391 (resized).jpeg1B769217-64E2-4BDC-BFB2-8AF2F12A4B0D (resized).jpeg
#11358 35 days ago

Just realized I’ve owned my Getaway now for 22 years, 2 months and 2 weeks.

#11359 34 days ago
Quoted from Seth1977:

I installed thin light strip on the bottom of loop instead of the top

That I didn't think of... It's probably less visible in the bend around the mountain. Can you take a picture from the players perspective, please?

#11360 34 days ago

As many of you know due to my unadulterated self-promotion in this thread over the last few years, I offer several 3D printed and decal mods for Getaway. My very first mod was a set of target decals which have remained the same now for over 5 years. However, a Getaway owner asked me for new gauge designs that incorporated the gauge art from the pin itself. Well, I liked them so much I installed them on my pin and I'm going to offer them moving forward in addition to my original design. The three gauges are the Turbo and Turbo Boost gauges that are featured on the sling plastics and the third is a Nitro gauge from the speaker panel.

The decals are made using a photo quality printer on ultra gloss photo paper, covered with a clear gloss vinyl laminate, backed with thick shock absorbing mounting tape, punched out in a perfect circle, and then perimeter edge is colored the same as outside border of each decal.

The cost for either 15 target decal set is currently $25 (US postage included), and I'll ship internationally on a per quote basis. Also, if you already own a set of my target decals but like the new design better, I'll sell you a set of the new gauges only (6 pieces) for $10. Like all my stuff, PM me if interested in ordering.

Original gauge target decals (my original hand cut set installed on my pin for about 5 years)
IMG_5901 (resized).JPGIMG_5902 (resized).JPGIMG_5903 (resized).JPG

New gauge target decals (cut with a punch to achieve a perfect circle shape)
IMG_5904 (resized).JPGIMG_5905 (resized).JPGIMG_5906 (resized).JPG

Traffic light decals (same on both sets - again my original hand cut ones)
IMG_5899 (resized).JPGIMG_5900 (resized).JPG

#11361 34 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

unadulterated self-promotion

little understated... bought several items the quality is great! the customer service is outstanding! The products ship quickly!
buy with confidence.

#11362 34 days ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

little understated... bought several items the quality is great! the customer service is outstanding! The products ship quickly!
buy with confidence.

Thanks for the positive feedback. I've had a few people get onto me for posting about my stuff in the threads at times, so I embrace the criticism.

#11363 34 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've had a few people get onto me for posting about my stuff in the threads at times, so I embrace the criticism.

good or bad ... exposure is a good thing!

made my HS2 look great .... wish I could find the time to get the spinner installed!

#11364 32 days ago

Finally got my new spinner installed! Love it! Thanks Mr_Tantrum!

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1 week later
#11365 24 days ago

Picture shows the "Ramp Lifting Mechanism Assembly" (the up/down or lock ramp), as viewed from the back on my Getaway.

Can someone confirm that the "pin" mounts inside the ramp (as pictured) and not below it? In my case, the pin was below the ramp causing it to "bind" in the up position and not flush with the playfield in the down position.

getaway-up-down-ramp (resized).jpg
#11366 24 days ago
Quoted from vandergugten:

Picture shows the "Ramp Lifting Mechanism Assembly" (the up/down or lock ramp), as viewed from the back on my Getaway.
Can someone confirm that the "pin" mounts inside the ramp (as pictured) and not below it? In my case, the pin was below the ramp causing it to "bind" in the up position and not flush with the playfield in the down position.
[quoted image]

I don't think that is the correct "pin", mine fit into the slot...don't have a pic though...I'm sure others do...

#11367 24 days ago

That is the right position. But your pin is wrong, what you have is a normal screw in there, it should be a pin. in the area were it enters the slot in the ramp
you should not have a thread.

#11368 24 days ago

This is on my Getaway but it could be on any game...

I have the flipper button protectors and they’ve developed a sticky feel to them. Not on the back, I mean where your fingers rest that aren’t on the button.

It feels tacky almost like finger grease or oil or lotion. It’s distracting enough I want to clean them up or remove them. Any suggestions? Cleaning them somehow? I don’t know what it is that’s on them or coming out of them or if it’s just my imagination. I would rather have it feel a little more rough as these feel sticky and rubbery. Smooth yes but sticky smooth if you know what I mean?

#11369 24 days ago
Quoted from vandergugten:

Picture shows the "Ramp Lifting Mechanism Assembly" (the up/down or lock ramp), as viewed from the back on my Getaway.
Can someone confirm that the "pin" mounts inside the ramp (as pictured) and not below it? In my case, the pin was below the ramp causing it to "bind" in the up position and not flush with the playfield in the down position.
[quoted image]

I just changed my ramp about 2 weeks ago, definitely a pin not a threaded bolt but also make sure well lubed as mine was sticking after replacement.

#11370 23 days ago

Thanks for your help on the lock ramp. With the pin in the correct position, the ramp works perfectly now.

#11371 18 days ago

I’m starting to make my comet LED list.
Is it going overboard with going with the 4 SMD non-ghosting LEDs as opposed to the single SMD non ghosting clear dome LEDs to light all the inserts?

Also thinking of blue pop bumpers and purple or red strip lighting for the back lane.

Thoughts?

#11372 17 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

I’m starting to make my comet LED list.
Is it going overboard with going with the 4 SMD non-ghosting LEDs as opposed to the single SMD non ghosting clear dome LEDs to light all the inserts?
Also thinking of blue pop bumpers and purple or red strip lighting for the back lane.
Thoughts?

I prefer the 4 SMD bulbs for inserts, I went with blue pops (I use the PBL EVO pop bumber LEDs), and for the back loop I use two spotlights with UV bulbs for mounted to the center top backboard pointing in either direction (white was a little too bright for me).

Also, here is some of the add-on lighting I did:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/77#post-3437950

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/85#post-3476037

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#11373 17 days ago

Please see below…

#11374 17 days ago

Mr_Tantrum
The pre ious post didn’t quite post properly…
What I meant was…
Thanks for chiming in.
4 SMDs it is!
I used the EVO pop bumper on my Cyclone. I like that they’re reactive . IMHO they are currently the best .
I am also going with blue.
What caps did you use?
I think I like the jeweled look better than the plain caps.

(For the record, all my lighting experience and experimentation has been with the Cyclone.)

I had thought about the the UV but didn’t know if would be bright enough.
Looking at what you did with the spots on the gauge plastics looks great!
Love the UV strip under the apron and gauges. But it looks like the bottom of the playfield could use a bit of illumination.
Can two more spots be added on the bottom of the gauges?
Instead of the spots In the back, how would a UV strip work?

Another consideration is to light up the clear posts with UV post lights .
Overkill?

For the back left corner I was going to play around with a red fire bulb and a blue fire bulb.

And then there’s the flashers.
Personally, I like the white 23 SMD towers.
They’re blindingly bright .
As far as other colors, not so much.
Although I did have a green tower that I installed on the left side which I do kinda like when I see it flash. I notice it anyway ..
What flashers did you go with?

One last dumb question…
I need to order a replacement carriage bolt.
I can’t figure out which Marco part is the correct bolt.
The parts list number don’t seem like the correct “Marco “ part number.
I’ve got a temporary bolt in there now.
I think it’s a 3/8-16 X 1 1/4 long.
I don’t see it n black (if that’s the correct bolt )

I also discovered a missing ramp entrance flap for the lock ramp.
Apparently none has one.
Ugggg

#11375 17 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Mr_Tantrum, what caps did you use?

Data East/Sega Caps: https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-pop-bumper-caps.html

Quoted from Hapidance:

Can two more spots be added on the bottom of the gauges?

Yes, I've seen others do it. Just to note, I have UV bulbs in my sling spots so that the orange in the center of the playfield really glows.

Quoted from Hapidance:

Instead of the spots In the back, how would a UV strip work?

Just fine, I suppose. I wanted it to be more subtle, so I chose not to flood the area.

Quoted from Hapidance:

Another consideration is to light up the clear posts with UV post lights .

I've done this on my AFMr and some on my Stern JP, and it looks great! If you do this, just be sure to buy however many dimmers you need to control everything as 100% bright might be too much for you (it was on both my pins).

Quoted from Hapidance:

What flashers did you go with?

I like to be shocked visually when the flashers fire, so I went with Comet 13SMD bulbs for the playfield (various colors depending upon placement): https://www.cometpinball.com/products/13smd-tower-flasher

For the backbox, I used the 5 SMD Comet bulbs: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers

#11376 17 days ago

I went back and forth with Comet over whether their UV lights would work well in lighting up the Getaway UV paint and they basically said no. This was their exact response:

"Unfortunately, UV light doesn't throw very far and I don't think spotlights will do you much good (part of why we don't offer UV spotlights). On The Getaway you'd also need to install them on the lower part of the slingshot which could cause visibility issues. Strips are usually a far better option, but to get an effect like in your photo you'd really need an overhead light. If there are specific areas you really want to enhance with UV we might be able to make that happen, but to light up the whole game like that probably isn't possible with just our products."

So what I did was buy a 50W 365nm UV overhead light that I can install on the ceiling above the table which highlights all the UV paint (amazon.com link »).

First pic below is from my 395nm flashlight held low to the playfield and pointed to the back (you can see a lot of extra blue/purple lighting which is a side effect of using a 395nm light). Second pic is the 365nm 50W UV light on the ceiling overhead and just right of the circular inserts in the lower playfield. The 365nm gives much more realistic lighting. Both pics taken in a dark room. In a lit room the effect is far less but still there.

Doing it this way allows you to keep your regular lighting on the playfield itself but still light up all the fluorescent orange.

Special thanks goes out to Mr_Tantrum who was instrumental in discussing the Getaway's UV lighting with me and helped steer me towards the overhead light.

Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Data East/Sega Caps: https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-pop-bumper-caps.html

Yes, I've seen others do it. Just to note, I have UV bulbs in my sling spots so that the orange in the center of the playfield really glows.

Just fine, I suppose. I wanted it to be more subtle, so I chose not to flood the area.

I've done this on my AFMr and some on my Stern JP, and it looks great! If you do this, just be sure to buy however many dimmers you need to control everything as 100% bright might be too much for you (it was on both my pins).

I like to be shocked visually when the flashers fire, so I went with Comet 13SMD bulbs for the playfield (various colors depending upon placement): https://www.cometpinball.com/products/13smd-tower-flasher
For the backbox, I used the 5 SMD Comet bulbs: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/5smd-flashers

IMG_3911 (resized).jpgIMG_3913 (resized).jpg

#11377 15 days ago

Mr_Tantrum
Thanks for the input!

What standoffs did you use to replace the screws on the plastics to mount the spots?
It looks like a short post on top but what’s under it?
Another standoff and screw from underneath?

Also, I need to replace one of the carriage bolts n the cab .
I hate to ask but I don’t want to order the wrong one . Or five different ones in hopes of getting the one I really need.
When I look at the part number on the parts list it doesn’t look like the bolt I need when I look at the Marco part number
Any idea of which one I need?

#11378 15 days ago

THJM
The UV looks great!
The overhead light really makes it pop!
I’m not sure how my wife would react to the light over the pin but I might have to find out.

#11379 15 days ago

First picture is with a real blacklight fixture $$$

2nd picture is amazon del blacklight lights $

Big difference

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79AFD315-9ACF-408C-9D4D-A8AD93FB4744 (resized).jpeg
#11380 15 days ago
Quoted from Hapidance:

Mr_Tantrum
Thanks for the input!
What standoffs did you use to replace the screws on the plastics to mount the spots?
It looks like a short post on top but what’s under it?
Another standoff and screw from underneath?
Also, I need to replace one of the carriage bolts n the cab .
I hate to ask but I don’t want to order the wrong one . Or five different ones in hopes of getting the one I really need.
When I look at the part number on the parts list it doesn’t look like the bolt I need when I look at the Marco part number
Any idea of which one I need?

I forget which ones I used as I just pulled them from my spare parts. I believe they have a thread on the bottom and I just removed the screw already securing the plastic in those position and replaced them with posts into the black plastic spacer that already exists there. They will rotate if banged with your hand while working on the playfield (I seem to do it every time), but I've not had them move during regular gameplay even with my PinSound shaker installed.

As far as the carriage bolts go, I'm not sure. Post a link to the ones you are looking at, and I'm sure someone here will be able to confirm and/or send you in the right direction.

a2c21b93c4c099a3b61d8c46e95538a40ce031f2 (resized).jpg
#11381 15 days ago

Just picked up my first Getaway. The shooter isn't making it around. Almost makes it but keeps hitting the corner under the ramp and falling into the pops. Is this how the assembly should look? I feel like the rod should be flush with the sleeve (ball at rest on rod) for added momentum. (nevermind the plastic protector in the lane. I've removed it)

IMG_0449 (resized).jpg

#11382 15 days ago

Mine looks like this.

7C3AC936-5584-4722-A48F-74A560DDB6C8 (resized).jpeg
#11383 15 days ago

It appears my game is using the kickback part for the shooter
Manual lists the expected part as A-15673
I'm searching the usual places, Marco, Pinball Life, coming up with zero results

#11384 15 days ago
Quoted from BasementFacts:

It appears my game is using the kickback part for the shooter
Manual lists the expected part as A-15673
I'm searching the usual places, Marco, Pinball Life, coming up with zero results

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709

#11385 15 days ago

Here's another picture of the ball launcher assembly. I had my apron off putting in a Cliffy protector. I also replaced the armature recently and the tip on the replacement is black. Same one as the link just shared (A-15709). I don't believe there is an A-15673. Where did you find that reference?

IMG_3709 (resized).JPG
#11386 14 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Here's another picture of the ball launcher assembly. I had my apron off putting in a Cliffy protector. I also replaced the armature recently and the tip on the replacement is black. Same one as the link just shared (A-15709). I don't believe there is an A-15673. Where did you find that reference?[quoted image]

In the manual. I'll go ahead and try 15709. Thanks guys!

IMG_0451 (resized).jpg
#11387 13 days ago
Quoted from BasementFacts:

In the manual. I'll go ahead and try 15709. Thanks guys!
[quoted image]

Weird. I have a different image in my manual for that kicker assembly.

Kicker assembly in manual page 2-27 (resized).JPG
#11388 13 days ago

Here is the page from the manual I have.

pasted_image (resized).png
1 week later
#11389 3 days ago

After a bunch of tweaking with my shift knob replacement mod, I finally was able to churn out a new version that uses an aluminum shaft (instead of the original PETG 3D printed version). It is threaded M10x1.5 on the end to accept most aftermarket shift knobs. It is super solid and lets you use an aftermarket shift knob on your machine.

It's a pretty straightforward install with just a few parts of the original shaft swapping over onto the new unit (spring, centering pin and C-Clip). I provide a 3D printed pivot piece since I found removing the stock one was pretty tricky as it was pressed on.

I bought a couple shift knobs to see what felt best and my preferred setup is the 6-speed ball knob, it has a nice weight to it and feels great in hand.

If there's interest in the full kit with that knob I can order some more, but for now I'm offering the kit BYOK (bring your own knob).

As an added option, I also made a replacement shifter plate without gate numbering to match a wider variety of knobs.

The shaft kit is available on my pinside store. Thanks!

P6130187 (resized).JPGP6130191 (resized).jpgShaft and Knob (resized).jpg
#11390 2 days ago

Picked up a Getaway a couple of months ago, love the game more with unlimited play at home. Have a question of course, have tried so much already, thought I would post here for any additional thoughts.

I was watching game play video, and saw players go up the left ramp, and then put the left flipper up. Ball jumps over to the right flipper for another left ramp shot. Smooth. In my game, the ball dribbles off the left flipper in the same scenario. I have tried everything I can think of. Mainly to increase ball speed. wire ramp alighment, lane divider alignment, new/smaller slingshot rubber, adjust the inline guide, align flipper, tried both low and high, different flipper rubbers, rebuild flippers earlier, level game/increase pitch. Out of ideas.....

See 2:13 of this video:

#11391 2 days ago
Quoted from Kredmore:

In my game, the ball dribbles off the left flipper

mine too..... just makes it over to the other flipper

#11392 2 days ago

The adjustment is to lower the rest position of the flipper. Look at the alignment dot underneath the tip of the flipper for reference.

It will still only just get over to the right flipper. And you’ll need to “one time” it with that right flipper to go back up the ramp. It won’t dribble far enough to cradle it first. Sometimes it will come over just right and you flip precisely when it lands and other times you pause momentarily before flipping. It is very particular and specific to each time the ball comes down the return. It won’t be the exact same time after time. Similar but you have to make a very quick judgement. If you get the hang of it, you can net 100 million in that 20 second supercharger round.

#11393 2 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

If you get the hang of it, you can net 100 million in that 20 second supercharger round.

Yes, that is the idea... Good info overall on the experiences, thank you.

I think I tried lowering the left flipper already, but with so many things tried and learned, I will give it another try.

#11394 2 days ago

Lowered the left flipper, didn't seem to change the scenario much, still dribbles over to the right flipper.

I see in this video, 2:17 for example, left flipper is actually high, and the ball easily goes to the right flipper. Tried high too, no luck. Seems like faster ball speed and maybe the inline guide is high. Game bubble in video looks like lowest pitch too. Buggers.....

#11395 1 day ago
Quoted from Kredmore:

Picked up a Getaway a couple of months ago, love the game more with unlimited play at home. Have a question of course, have tried so much already, thought I would post here for any additional thoughts.
I was watching game play video, and saw players go up the left ramp, and then put the left flipper up. Ball jumps over to the right flipper for another left ramp shot. Smooth. In my game, the ball dribbles off the left flipper in the same scenario. I have tried everything I can think of. Mainly to increase ball speed. wire ramp alighment, lane divider alignment, new/smaller slingshot rubber, adjust the inline guide, align flipper, tried both low and high, different flipper rubbers, rebuild flippers earlier, level game/increase pitch. Out of ideas.....
See 2:13 of this video:

You do see that the player (probably Bowen Kerins) bumps the machine to make the ball pop up more, right?

#11396 1 day ago

yes, I saw the bump in the 2nd video (no bump in the first video). I noticed my machine was a bit out of level tonight when I checked, lower on the left, so re-leveled and when up a bit more to see the impact to this scenario. And there it is - the ball moves properly over to the right flipper each time as expected. I think all the other items have some minor impact too (bump, flipper rubber, flipper adjust, inline guide adjust, etc.), but the most impact was the level. Appreciate the replies.

#11397 1 day ago
Quoted from Kredmore:

yes, I saw the bump in the 2nd video (no bump in the first video). I noticed my machine was a bit out of level tonight when I checked, lower on the left, so re-leveled and when up a bit more to see the impact to this scenario. And there it is - the ball moves properly over to the right flipper each time as expected. I think all the other items have some minor impact too (bump, flipper rubber, flipper adjust, inline guide adjust, etc.), but the most impact was the level. Appreciate the replies.

Nice. Glad to hear you got it to work!

Just for the hell of it I tried it on my Getaway tonight and yeah…. It was a no go.

I have super bands on mine so maybe that’s why? Sigh, I guess I’ll have to try to figure mine out now. See what you started!?

Thanks a lot!

#11398 1 day ago

Since I’m posting on here, might as well post some pics of my game after I changed up the lighting and finally got around to installing my art blades!

I Kinda copied the lighting they did on one of Todd Tukey’s videos.

Hope I didn’t already post these pics here and I forgot…

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