I recently picked up a Getaway HSII, and some days the game keeps shutting down momentarily and then resets right back up - this usually occurs during multi-ball, but also sometimes when 1st starting up the game. Other days the game plays just fine. I know that there's a logically organized procedure for checking components out on pinwiki.com for this problem, but I'm wondering if anyone who has had this problem solved it, and what was done to correct this problem. I've checked the line voltage and it's always between 119.8 - 120.4 VAC, on a 15 A circuit with nothing else connected to the circuit, which I think should be fine. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

I'm thinking about changing the #906 incandescent flasher bulbs behind the Getaway back glass with super bright 13V AC/DC 8SMD LED flasher bulbs. Has anyone done this and are you pleased with the result?

Sounds like unstable 5V.

I have these. They are awesome.
https://burkinafaso.desertcart.com/products/51619730-ambother-2pcs-144-smd-led-1156-ba15s-p21w-single-contact-super-white-auto-signal-lamp-daytime-running-light-turn-signal-back-up-reverse-brake-tail-light-bulb-canbus-error-rv

How about Ritchie’s car, with headlights on / off ?

Or the back end !

I believe that is what this product is for:

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1014-pinsound/04622-no-more-reset

I'd follow this guide to diagnose as it could be a multitude of factors causing the resets. From the connector down to the caps or even the the voltage regulator on the board.

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets

Anyone know if this anti-mag ball trough shim will fit in the Getaway? It's not listed under product compatibility.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

Unless you're comfortable rebuilding your power supply board, pick up one of these, end of problem...
https://kahr.us/daughterboard.html

Diagnose it before applying a random fix.

Those are good ideas.

FYI, I shipped most of the spinners today (those of you who ordered other items will take me another couple of days to get everything made). My plan is to write the installation instructions tonight, then I'll send everyone their tracking numbers with a link to the instructions. There were a variety of sign combinations and they all look good when spinning, so I think everyone is going to be happy.

Could have the back of the car facing player ... otherside could have smoke coming from tires ....

When spinning looks like a burnout

Love to see a video, sounds cool.

The Lamborghini being mounted near the Donut House, can I pick that up on Amazon? If so what ratio car size?

It's 1:43. You want to find one that has no wing and a black interior (you can paint the wheels gold).

See here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/223#post-6178091

Trying to decide if I should go white or black strip. I have black strip now and it looks good, do you have have any pics of the white strip installed?

Currently i don't, I'm going to be back at the machine end of the month. However, I'm sure the color does not make a difference. The narrow strip Does not protrude over the ramps guide so it doesn't matter.

I just ordered the 4mm black version from Ebay: ebay.com link: Narrow DC 5V WS2812B Led Strip Individually Addressable WS2812 Led pixel Light

I just spent a couple of days trying to figure out my supercharger speed issues - again. Since I've owned the pin, it has always been slow (average above 130 and never dropped below 120). I thought I had done everything: I've tested all the magnets and they fire, I replaced the accelerator board with a brand new one, I've replaced all of the optos, I've cleaned and even waxed the entire inside of the loop (even under the magnets), and even removed my Pinduino lighting. Yet, I still couldn't do any better than around a 130 average.

Then I was chatting with tampa12 and he mentioned how fast he had gotten his supercharger to run . . . I was jealous. He shared with me how many ohms resistance each of his coils have, and how much idle and fire state voltage was being sent to them. I got out my meter and all of my coils had between 3.2 to 4.0 ohms (which is acceptable), idle voltage was about 3 volts on each coil, and when activated by blocking the corresponding optos it jumped up to almost 50 volts at times. During the testing, however, I noticed that the center coil didn't always have constant voltage when idle. After some playing around, I determined the issue was a bad wire/connection inside the plug that provides power to the coil. I happen to have what I need to extract the wires and re-pin them. After doing this I was getting a constant 3 volts.

Unfortunately, after testing I shaved a few ticks off my timing but still couldn't get anything below 120. Then tampa12 shared with me that he used synthetic oil to very lightly lube the inside of his supercharger loop. I didn't have any and was willing to go buy a quart just for this, but then remembered I had a small amount of silicone oil which is a good clear and safe lubricant. I applied a very light coating on the inside surfaces of the supercharger loop, went into supercharger speed test, and was blown away. I was now getting average times in the low 90's and even dropped below 90 a couple of times.

I've since played a few games, and the extra supercharger speed is awesome! I then figured I would reinstall my Pinduino lighting and even applied it where it was about 1mm above the top of the loop. I put the pin in supercharger test mode, and now my average was approaching 110. I took the lighting back off, and I'm back down to the low 90's, which is what led me to ordering the light strip I reference at the first of this post based upon the lighting @sprudeldudel suggested.

I know this is a lengthy post, but hopefully others who are in a similar situation as I was will find this information to be helpful.

Can you show a picture where you put the oil? (Is it car engine oil lol ???)
Id like to try that aswell.

We also replaced all the optos and its not quicker...

I used silicone oil, but tampa12 used actual synthetic motor oil (a very thin coating is all that is required).

You don't really need a picture, as you do the entire inner surface (bottom and both sides) around the entire loop. I used a microfiber clock, put the silicon oil on that (a few drops at a time), and literally rubbed the entire inner surface of the metal supercharger loop (the bottom and both sides). I also did the same to the diverter where it faces the inside of the loop, and I took the cloth and pushed it back and forth inside the supercharger where the magnets are.

BTW, what are your current supercharger test times?

Have you tested the resistance and voltage on each coil? If so, where those readings in line? If not, here is a good video that walks you through things:

Thx,

We havnt check voltage. With your video, i now understand how to do it. Will repott back in the next few days.

As for supercharger test, it was in the 150 if i remember right, i will recheck and report.

Guys, oil is not a good hack. It will crawl along the surface of anything and any dust caused will stick to it.
Obviously it's your machines but I don't think this is a good idea at all.

Why don't you use the playfield wax in stead. That also has a lubricating effect without the downsides of oil...

I've tried carnuba wax before, but didn't get the same results. I'm not too concerned with an ultra thin layer of clear silicone oil, but I see how things go. If it ends up being a dirt magnet then I'll go back to wax.

This?

https://www.amazon.ca/Super-Lube-56504-Silicone-Clear/dp/B00OBV1LMK

I have something from years ago where I used to work that just states on the bottle it is pure silicone oil. If you've not tried waxing the interior of the loop you may want to try that first to see how it does for you. Otherwise, from looking at the description of that product, it should do the trick.

That is the product that TZ owners use to lubricate their playfield clock gears so I would say yes.

Haven't really played much Getaway lately, but I've put several games after resolving my supercharger issues. It is so much more fun with just that little added speed element. Probably the coolest thing is how fast the ball feeds down the left wireframe after the supercharger ejects it.

What timings do you have now?

Cleaned, waxed or shiny new balls make a big difference in the supercharger times too.

Low 90’s, dipping below that at times. I was averaging 130 and never dropping below 120.

what's everyone using for this "mile 0" bracket?

bracket getaway (resized).jpg

Nice to see the forum back up and running

Got thinking about something else to check or adjust for those having difficulty making the long ramp shot using the lower right flipper and passing around that left orbit.

Check to see that your rest position for that lower right flipper isn't too high up. Reason being, if the flipper is too "strong" to the right, which it will be if set that way, you will need to let the ball travel a little farther down the flipper bat before hitting it to try and get the angle you need for that left orbit. And when you need to wait that extra bit, the power won't be there the same way it will be if you have the flipper adjusted lower.

Use the alignment dots underneath the end of each lower flipper bat and try and centre the tip right over that dot. Tighten it up well underneath and then play some games. I think you'll notice the difference.

Mine already had the bracket. A few years ago, TheOnlyest posted a post alternative he came up with.

Here is a pic of the Vitesse 1:43 Diablo in red, no wing, black interior and with the wheels painted gold. I used Testors Enamel Metallic Gold on the wheels.

It's easiest to take the car apart (two screws on the bottom) and then slip out the axles and remove the tires. When putting them back in put the axles in without the tires and then put the tires on. You need to hold up plastic pieces at each end to put the axles back in so be gentle so as not to break anything.

IMG_4021 (resized).jpg

Unobtainium, unfortunately. I had to get the backup. Minichamps.

I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my problem of the game frequently shutting off and then immediately resetting (primarily during multi-ball). I solved the problem by installing a rottendog power driver board and after playing tons of games for more than a week it hasn't shut off once.

I'm trying to dial in my new (to me) Getaway PB. I've noticed that when a new ball is starting out by activating the gear shift lever, the ball is sent to the inner (or is it called the upper) left-to-right orbit. Most times the ball makes it entirely around the orbit and then can be played by the upper right flipper, but sometimes it doesn't have enough speed to make it entirely around the orbit and winds up in the upper pf area by the jet bumpers. Is this normal, or does this show that something might be out of adjustment?
Thanks in advance for your comments.

I got mine working very consistently. From memory I cleaned and polished the plunger, but most importantly made sure the coil was really tight against the stop with no play in it.

My spinner arrived yesterday, build quality is great. Sadly to busy to get it installed right away. Will attach pictures when done.
Great mod, thank you @ MrTantrum

Just a little problem resolved post...

I was intermittently having a second ball jump out into the shooter lane before the first one was launched. Then it would launch both of them, and you could play with both of them, but the game got pretty confused if you drained one and kept playing the other. The flippers and features still worked usually, but the music stopped.

It happened a lot on ball three, but sometimes on earlier balls too. I thought maybe it was a grounding issue or static electricity build-up even on me or the game. I couldn't find a lot of consistency until I started to realize it only ever happened when three balls were in the trough to start (i.e. no balls were locked).

I then read something on either here or one of the Facebook groups about checking out the trough switches. Sure enough, the trough switch for the 3rd ball (well, the one farthest away from the shooter lane) was occasionally sticking. I got looking underneath with the playfield pulled up and out and the apron cover removed. While slowly and quietly moving either a ball or my finger across the top of the switch, I noticed it would at times get over to the side and be touching the side of the groove it was sticking out through. And every so often it wouldn't go back up all the way to release the little plunger in the switch itself.

So I took it off the game and gently bent the wire portion at the spot that it looked like it had gotten bent out of shape slightly to begin with. And good to go. Haven't had it stick again and there hasn't been a second ball get shot out into the shooter lane since.

It seems like when that switch is still down, the game is being told all the balls are still in the trough, so tries to move one of them along. When it did this, either that switch freed itself up from the coil movement or it now got the signal from the second trough switch that it was open and figured the ball had made it there. Either way, it fixed the issue by adjusting that switch.

Loving the spinner mod. Install was super simple.

20210410_165332 (resized).jpg

My saga of the broke HS2 I brought home continues ...

The CPU and MPU we’re sent out to Clive,
They came back recently in perfect working order.
Thank you Clive!

I reinstalled all the boards, powered up the pin and I received a few error messages.
Check switch 81 opto 1 through switch 85 opto 5. Also, none of the lamps light up.

For starters, I suppose I should check To see that all the connections to the boards are correct.
I may have missed one or plugged it in the wrong place.
I also need to check the ribbon cables.
Im hoping it’s as simple as a connector in the wrong place.

When I push the start button, a game won’t start. Is that normal if it’s displaying the opto errors?

In any case, I’ll be investigating more after work today.

waldo34

The spinner looks awesome!

Yep the spinner is awesome Mr_Tantrum hits another home run with a mod!

20210416_163425 (resized).jpg

After a complete tear down and cleaning my game showed the same error. After running a ball through the supercharger the error cleared.
However my game did start .... So must be an other issue that you are having

For the supercharger opto errors, you can check the connections on the accelerator board which is mounted under the playfield at the back. Agreed on those errors at times resetting themselves once you shoot a ball through the supercharger. I got the set of errors while having a U20 blowing issue thanks to my divertor arm coil lugs shorting against something under the ramp. I fixed the orientation and positioning of the divertor arm coil and it has been good ever since.

At one point while I was not quite in the clear, I had fuse 105 blow, which powers coils 1-8. This is both left and right slings, the divertor arm, locker coil and a couple others. Before I knew that fuse was blown, I tried to start a new game and all it did was make the sound of the engine trying to turn over. But it wouldn't start. On a side note, I thought that was pretty cool hearing the engine trying to start while the game has a blown fuse. You could have a fuse blown. Agreed also on the opto errors potentially being a different issue.

Only Pinball machine that requires jumper cables

This means you lost the free play setting. If there was a short which blew F105 it may have dropped the 5 volts low enough to lose the memory settings.