I bought a set recently from Absolute Pinball in Saskatchewan and the orange pinstripe is good. It doesn't look pink at all to me.

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I'm tying it into the lower left loop switch. There is a sound associated with that switch, but what I've noticed is that there is a sequence of sounds anytime you make the left loop, so it kind of gets lost. The points associated with that switch are minimal at 10,000 per tripping.

That's either a CPR set that has been colour adjusted better in recent printings OR it's a rip off of the CPR set (looks to the eye to have better colouring). I say this because the CPR reprints had the alternative wording/extra plastics with "Drink up and race the cops" and "Drive 185 and feel alive"

paid and excited!

I think a little sheet of like 10 stickers would be a great addition. I cant decide what I'd want on the spinner, but I already have a wrong way on the 1 way gate by the launcher

I will be developing some decal options (probably this weekend) for people to choose from. I'm still taking ideas (front and back).

Only 4 more hours to get in on the first run of Getaway spinners and join the 16 others who have already committed. If you want one, please let me know ASAP, and all payments are due by this evening.

There may or may not every be a second run, as I want to do these in bunches (minimum of 10) instead of one-offs due to the parts that must be ordered to build them.

My F105 fuse is blowing. And so coils 1 to 8 aren’t working. This includes the divertor arm, ramp up/down, both slingshots and locker coil. If I replace the fuse and turn the game on, it gives me two errors. Check divertor and check ramp up/down. I don’t know which thing is causing which. If the fuse is blown, none of those features work, but if one of those features has a short somehow, it would perhaps show as having failed and blow the fuse?

Is there a methodical way to test for shorts on that fuse and the solenoids 1-8 it powers? I can open things up for a visual inspection of either the divertor coil or ramp coil or both but wanted to see if there was a way to narrow things down across all of those 8 coils first on fuse F105?

Thanks.

Getaway Spinner Run #1 is closed. Thank you to all of those participating. I will be ordering parts today, and will be working on decal options this weekend. I'm estimating at least 2 weeks to complete everything, and will post general updates as I move along.

Joined the club today and after going through the machine and testing the supercharger(time test I believe), I came across an issue with the divertor opening after one or two spins around wih the ball...Should that not be staying open untill you stop the test...and what would cause the divertor to open that way?...

Check the diodes on the diverter coil

ah no diodes on that coil....but now I realize that its set up like a flipper coil with a low and high hold...tested the transistor for that low coil...shorted...easy fix...

FYI to all spinner buyer: I've ordered all of the components and started production of the 3D printed brackets (about 40 hours in print time will be required). I wanted to let everyone know that even though this first run is locked, I did purchase enough components to make a couple of extra. I do this in case I receive any faulty/broken parts. In the end, if I have enough working parts to make an additional spinner mod or two, then I will announce and those will go to the first people to commit. If you missed the first run and want to be on the reserved list for these potential extras (will be 2 or 3 at most), please let me know and I'll take the first 3 names for first right of refusal if/when I offer the extras.

Does the shaft have a bit of up and down play? my Sorcerer was doing it with the top flipper and after adjusting some slop into it, it's not.

Replace plungers. Likely they are worn down and have a burr on the end that catches on the plastic.

Or they are magnetized and stick to the coil stop. How do The flippers come back down when they do? Fall instantly or crawl?

Generally speaking, you don't put the lug end of the coil next to the coil stop. It is meant to be turned around and facing the other way. The coil should have a little nub that then sits perfectly in that small cut-out portion of the bracket. This is what keeps it from rotating or moving excessively.

I just replaced my left flipper coil with a new one. Pics from the other day.

I can't see super well which wires are terminated on which lug for your right flipper coil. The ORANGE-GREEN looks to be correct, but confirm the middle lug has the BLUE-VIOLET and the third lug has the BLUE-YELLOW wire.

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Aside from what Sprudeldudel and punkin said, could also be a worn or broken flipper bushing.

Looks like your spring is stretched pretty far. Hard to see, but also looks like you might be using the wrong EOS switch for Fliptronic. Should be the low-voltage gold contacts, not high-voltage tungsten contacts. Neither of those things would cause what you're describing though.

My bet is on bushing, since somebody else already called gap and plunger.

Has anyone mapped/made a list The Getaway sounds in pinsound so they can be identified easier as in.

touch_long = Left Slingshot
Electic_touch = Pop Bumper

....... and so on ?

I am in the middle of a Dance/Trance/House music orchestrion and I want to change all of the sound effects pretty much.

Also I have used some of the downloaded orchestrions Mr_Tantrum techno for example (there is a theme here for the music I want on the machine) but the car exploding sound seems to be missing on the video mode when you crash but I believe the sound is in the files ok.

The coils can go either way, some techs recommend to install them the way you have, to avoid breaking cold solder joints over time from vibration.
You dont need to change them, it is not the problem. Make sure your sleeves are not in backward, there should be a small bit of sleeve showing through the coil bracket on the plunger end... I dont see that. The flanged end of the sleeve should always be at the coil-stop end, regardless of the orientation of the coil.
If the sleeves are in backward, they will crush and bind the plunger when you secure the coil. If you find that the sleeves are in backward, you'll need to replace them again.

Thank you for this. I'm not sure my own games have this orientation at every coil. I may not have known to check for this when replacing sleeves.

A new question though for anyone out there in Getaway land or similar... my balls have gotten magnetized.

It became crystal clear to me when the balls wouldn't come down out of the lock area to start multiball. I shut the game off and had a look with the glass off and playfield up on horizontal working height and sure enough the balls were not only sticking to each other a little, but the lead ball was sticking to the end of the plunger on that locker coil.

Is there a solution for this? On Getaway at least? The Supercharger is a key feature of the game and the magnets are necessary to make it go. But can we load special balls that are less prone to getting magnetized? Is that even a thing? How can you tell looking at balls on the workbench to tell which ones are which? Or is there something going on with my game that should be dialed down some to help lessen this magnetizing effect? Thanks!

Are you using standard carbon steel balls and not mirror finished ones? I've been using standard ones in my Getaway and never had an issue close to what you're describing. I've seen warnings on a lot of the super high polished ones that warn of issues with magnetization. As for how to tell on a bench...well...not sure. Maybe if you have a microscope you can put it under there and look for how deep the pits are?

Not sure how they would have been labelled when new, but they are pretty shiny. I replaced the balls in the game when I got it and maybe that wasn't a good idea. I still have the old balls that came with it and I'll see about putting those back in. They weren't banged up or pitted or rusted or anything like that. I just thought new and shiny/spiffy/fancy would be better. Apparently not for the balls though, lol.

Do most of the main parts vendors sell balls that are non-shiny or dull? Is that how I should be shopping for them? Just on the Getaway that is. My other games I don't think have the same issue.

This brings up a question: has anyone done supercharger performance comparisons with carbon steel balls vs. chrome steel? I've always used chrome steel in Getaway (super shiny) but wondering if I would get better loop speeds out of carbon.

Hi, owner of a hs2 since december. Discovered that my diverter coil could rotate at electrify the complete supercharger. Blew u20 two times i think due to this. Anyone got a pic of how it should look stock?

Edit: Removed the supercharger and I'm thinking that the lugs should face down to not shortcut to the metal. Put it back that way and it seem to work out this far.

By the way, Great work with the colorization, I installed a pin2dmd last week. Hope to get some updates in the future if you overcome the legal bit...

I would be interested in seeing if there are potential ball magnetizing differences between shooting a ball into the Supercharger and shooting two balls into the Supercharger so they’re looping around together. I do this quite a bit in multiball when relighting the jackpot, 10 loops at a time. If you shoot the first ball in and then the second right after it at the same time you have the third ball in the kickout hole while it plays the “he went in the tunnel” animation, you can have those two balls going around the Supercharger I would estimate at least 30 times before they divert out. That’s the most strenuous test I can think of to put it through while in normal gameplay mode.

I've never had any magnetization issues with chrome steel in Getaway, and I've had plenty of double and triple ball supercharger events. However, I helped a friend buy a World Cup Soccer recently and we were having weird issues. Turns out that the pin magnetized the balls on the first use with it's magnasave and magnetic ball lock mech. Repeated test with new balls, and again in the first game they had issues (where sticking together and not launching in the ball trough). Bought some carbon steel balls for that game, and they work perfectly. I think the difference of travelling through a magnetic field in Getaway verses actually being captured by an electromagnet in WCS made a significant impact on magnetizing the balls.'

If you want to do a simple test, take the balls out, place them on a flat surface, then slowly move one ball towards another. If their is an attraction (even a small one), then you should replace them. Similarly, if you stick two balls together and pull the leading ball and the ball behind it travels with it, then that confirms they are magnetized.

Making a little spinner progress.

- Wires are cut and ends stripped & tinned
- About half the brackets are printed
- Switches, spinners, and hardware are ordered

Will work on decal designs for front and back this weekend. If you've ordered a spinner, please PM me (or post publicly) your ideas if you've not done so already.

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SOLD

I have an extra large plastic if anyone is interested $15 including US shipping. I originally bought this thinking I needed a donor plastic as I was developing my spinner, but the final design doesn't require any cutting of the plastic.

First one to PM me gets it.

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For those who purchased my spinner mod, here are the ideas for signs from you and from ones I thought would be good. Please let me know what other designs you would like to see. A decal will go on front and back, and can be the same or different. Also, the Interstate sign can be customized to any city and Interstate number you would like. For example, I thought the idea of a speed limit sign on front with the spray painted sign on back might be kind of cool when it spins.

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Had the same issue. The problem is that the coil didn't have the feature to stop it from rotating. When fixing it I additionally used isolating tape to isolate the metal parts that could be touched, just in case.

Thanks for the explanation. I tested the balls like you suggested and they are definitely magnetized. They can pull each other like a little train. In fact, one of the balls I got to pick up a small washer. So I'll definitely be getting some plain old fashioned carbon steel balls in the near future for my Getaway.

There were times when I was playing and the balls acted like they had "English" on them. And I mean like a pool ball or cue ball does when you hit it with your cue a little off centre. I have been seeing a little bit of smudging on the balls ever since I put in new white rubber rings. I got thinking that somehow one or more of those new rubbers was getting hit hard enough to smear the ball a little and that's what was showing up on them. Although since it's continued to happen long after I would have thought the rubber surface would have cleaned itself off, it got me wondering if there is some little dob of cleaner or wax that I can't find and every so often a ball goes into it and gets a little on it. Between the smudges and the magnetizing, the ball can do some crazy things at times. Sure has made it fast and unpredictable.

Anyone think of a spot or two on the game where they've had cleaner or wax hide and smudge up the balls because you didn't realize it was there? I've looked all over and can't find anything obvious.

Pinball Life sells these, and they are pretty shiny: https://www.pinballlife.com/1-116-pinball-standard-size.html

I play with silicone rings/rubbers, and they tend to grip the ball more which does cause some English at times.

I've not experienced this.

Just to clarify, it is the metallic properties that lead to balls getting magnetized and not how shiny they are, right? Like carbon steel, even when super shiny, won't get magnetized? Yet the chrome ones are more prone to getting magnetized? Just trying to understand how it happens to help me figure out what I need to do or change on the game if it isn't just my ball choice.

Correct: chrome steel balls get magnetized rather easily vs. using carbon steel balls in magnet games. Again, I've personally not had issues in Getaway with my Titan super shiny chrome balls, but when using these same balls in World Cup Soccer, they magnetized the first game. We put carbon balls in the WCS, and they play perfectly without becoming magnetized for dozens of games at this point.

I don't see how the polish of the ball would impact magnetization in any way, but I'm not a physicist who specializes in the magnetic field (pun intended).

Personally I'm a fan of the decals you used originally. Freeway entrance and wrong way.

Right on, thanks. I just found and read through a good thread on balls and magnetism from a few years ago. User BlackKnight wrote most of the technical and it explained a lot. Will definitely get some carbon steel balls for my Getaway.

Magnetized balls. Put into fireplace or in between coals during a proper bbq. Cool off, clean. Bye bye magnetism.

Spinner Update . . .

- UPS just delivered a few more parts
- I'm 3D printing the last bracket right now (it's a good things as I'm about to run out of silver filament, and it's on backorder)
- Still awaiting the switch screws to arrive
- Still need to apply the adhesive tape to the brackets
- I installed mine from scratch again today, and took photos of everything so I can author installation instructions with visuals

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As a tribute to Funhouse and Whirlwind (two of my timeless favorites), it would be cool to have "I-70 - Kansas" on the front and "I-80 Visit the Fault" on the back.

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I would put a switched off traffic light on the front and the respective color on the back. When the spinner is spun the lights will merge with the image and the light will show red or green...

Something else I've noticed on my Getaway... it feels like there is a lot less power on the upper flipper when you hit it the second time going for loops. Like if I flip at the ball to shoot it up into the ramp, it goes really quite firmly and can even slam into the locker area. Not the same feeling at all when I am flipping for loops. For whatever reason, the second time I go to hit the ball on the way by, it feels weaker. Almost like it would be the equivalent of the hold power and not the full power.

Any idea how or what could be affecting that on the upper flipper? EOS switch positioning perhaps? Bad connection or component on the Fliptronics board? Does the upper flipper even have that two mode power for hit and hold like the lower flippers do? You obviously can't cradle a ball with the upper flipper.

Like I said, it's a feel thing so more difficult to measure or describe accurately. But you know it's a different amount of force on that second time around just by playing it.

Where can i get a nice set of apron cards?

Try here. http://www.pinballrebel.com/game/pins/instruction/index.htm

As the button have 2 steps, I find it harder to accurately time the upper flipper, if I slam the button it is easier to time that "lock" shot. I'm not a talanted player, so I have thought it is just about my bad timing... To do speed millions though is a lot easier than to get enough power to go up the ramp...

I will exchange my flipper coils and check my molex connectors, I'd like some more power, I can barely make the lock shot from lower flipper if the ball is laying stand still and then do the shot. But perhaps it should be this way? I started of with worn flipper mechs and wrong coilstops, it is not the usual model that should be there.

It would have been nice to know how a well functioning HS2 should work... Perhaps someone that has one can shoot some videos to show the expected flipper power?

With this fix, now the game have played without problem for several hours. Are there any list of game specific problems or service bulletins for this machine?

Added a new sign option for the Getaway spinner. The idea here is that the left loop routes to the ball lock when the ramp is down.
It's not too late to change your mind if you've already submitted your decal preferences, just send me a PM.

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The flippers shouldn't have trouble shooting the ball up to the lock from a stand still. Did you rebuild the flippers with the correct parts and verify the correct coils are installed?

Also, what kind of cabinet flipper button switches do you have? If they're the leaf switches with gold-plated contacts, i find they can wear out and cause sometimes weak or unresponsive flippers. I upgraded mine to opto boards and so far they've been great. Might be worth considering if you find the cab switches are the problem.

When the shot is hit perfectly. Per fect ly. This is how it is designed. If it's not really clean and full it is not supposed to make it.