I had this problem on my Getaway so I just bought a new header and re-crimped on original cables. Never changed the motherboard header as it didn't look burnt and I use LEDs now so the current draw would be much less. This has been fine for the last 5 Years.

Managed to get my hands on a licenced missing mountain, like new with the licensing from Williams decal still attached ...

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Small update here reagarding the colorization.
- I have finished renaming all assetts (scenes and triggers) in the project file according game structure, i.e. "mbl_awd_l1_talk" is the hitchhiker talking, which is shwon as a confirmation that the 1st ball has been locked. There were lots of assetts, but they are all in order now.
- File was converted to 64 colors, which will allow for much nicer text animations.
- I have created a large excel file that lists all the assetts and noted what colors are dictated by the game according to insert color etc. each asset has a unique set of colors associated with it. i.e. the multiball is a police chase, so MB scenes will be containing blue red white. bonus inserts are green, so anything related to the bonus multipliers will be using green. etc.

Currently I am working on the color pallettes. My structure-OCD required the color pallettes to be mathematically consistent. Considering the now possible 16x4 colors I am drafting a master color table to make sure all reds used in the game are coming from the same tone.

next steps will be to then build something like storyboard with the colors from the new pallettes and see what it looks like.

im having fun doing this and im learning a lot about RGB / hex translations and the mathematical relationships between colors in the hexadecimal system. obviuously im a nerd, but this is a really cool project.

sneak peak attached.

Glad you got one.
That might be the one I sold to a Pinsider. Even gave him the original instructions from pinball toys.
He was selling that and some other stuff.

Decided to go with the Tantrum version as I prefer his design.

I have the Tantrum version also and very happy with it. Very fine details in his 3d printing technique.

Lot of mods and parts installed.
Dmd, pinsound card and spearkers, cpr plastics, mountain, powdercoated legs, ect

Next is to install side blades and new side arts.

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Another issue, supercharger is getting back to slow.

What can i do? Replace all optos in ramp?
Getting a new supercharger board?

Also have a code: check switch 81, opto 1
Opto 1 is stuck open

Thx guys

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I am about to pull the trigger on Comet LEDs but have a couple of questions for you first.

Does Getaway benefit in any way from the OCD LED or GI boards?

Where can I find the L2 Rom with the updated software for LEDs to prevent ghosting?

Thanks.

No this one came directly from pinball toys / manufacturer. Steve

Hi all
I’m looking for some help with this dreaded error
Check fuses F114 and 115 on my new broken Getaway.
The fuses are good
I pulled J101 and tested pins 3 and 7 and they read close to 5
According to what I read, I’m assuming this means the bridge rectifiers are good.
I also grounded the red and tested . Same reading.

Upon turning on the game , the LED on the MPU blink then 19 goes out, 20 steady blinks kinda quick and 21 is steady on.

A lot of what I read indicates a Blown U20, bad ROM or RAM.

Is there anything else I should or can test to help narrow down the issue?
If it’s a chip , I could give it a try but I think it might be beyond my skill set to remove and sockets for U20 and RAM and install NVRAM to get rid of the batteries.
I outdone hate to send out the boards ( don’t know where to send them) if the problem is something simple I can fix.
Any testing recommendations are much appreciated.

Are all the test point leds on?

Hello from Hamburg
Today we have eventually managed to start printing the Getaway Playfields. For all that are waiting, sorry the delay. We will try and print 1 color a day at least, maybe we can do 2 colors on some days. 13 Colors all together, 12 still to print
If you are not on our pre-order list and want a Getaway Playfield, the please send me an email to peter(et)buthamburg.de with your postal address.
1 Getaway Buthamburg Playfield € 765 (+ 19% VAT for EC)

Have a nice Day.
Regards from Hamburg.
Leon and Peter
www.buthamburg.de

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GRUMPY
Hi, you’ve helped me out with my cyclone which is working great!
The getaway however ...
This is a new learning experience .

If your talking about the three LEDs on the board., yes.
Top one goes out middle blinks fast bottom is on.

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No, I mean the Power Driver Board leds.

GRUMPY
These three?
There were others that seemed out I’ll try to locate them...

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Contact arakissun for the HS1 police light mod

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sell-hs1-police-light-mod

GRUMPY
#High speed II the Getaway

If I remember correctly, led2 and led 3 were or lit.

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There are seven leds and need to be on. If they are not on it can cause the CPU to not boot up.

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GRUMPY
Where do you find this info?!?
I’m always amazed.

LEDs 7, 4, 5 are all solid lit

LEDs 2, 3 and 7 are not lit.

Seems like 2&3 don’t offer much but 7 seems to be associated with BR1 and fused by F114

I wound up taking the boards out and brought them home to work on (or send out)
Can I test BR1 without power?
I saw a video.....

Pin Wiki.

Led #7 is associated with BR5 and fuse F116.

Diode test with a DMM.

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For those with 3D printing capabilities, there is a great mountain model on thingiverse;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4539022

Here is what it looks like unpainted, printed in white.

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GRUMPY
I tested BR 1-5
And the results are on the attached picture below .

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They also have this on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-8-1-10-RC-Car-Roof-Police-Lights-LED-Flashing-Strobe-Light-Lamp-360-Rotation/353309743415?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D37e76334bcd24d46b47659a8ba291505%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D114337179731%26itm%3D353309743415%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Affc2eb79-648e-11eb-a0f6-7abeddd00635%7Cparentrq%3A5db8392b1770a9b13e1efe09fff767ae%7Ciid%3A1

Those number seem good. I'm sure there was a "." in front of each set of numbers.

You are going to have to make continuity tests looking for a cracked solder joint or a pulled thru hole from a cap replacement.

I'm REALLY excited to see where you take this. The Milenko colorization is good, but theres certainly plenty of room for improvement. If we ever get to the point where the pin2dmd outdoes the colordmd version (which in theory is quite possible) then that will be a huge achievement.

GRUMPY

Yes there was a “.” In front of all those #s.

I hate to ask but what exactly am I checking for continuity on the board? In real beginner terms ...

I can send all the boards out, pay the few hundred bucks and not learn a darn thing.
But cash is tight, I’m kind of cheep and It would especially suck if the boards are ok. But if something is wrong , it sure would be nice to know what it is...

Would you tell me what to check next?

No offense .... Ha!

If you follow the schematic, it shows you that the positive leg of the bridge rectifier connects to the positive lead of the cap. So check continuity between these points, touch the leads not the traces.

I just picked up a Getaway and upon playing it a few times I realized it has a lamp matrix issue.

When playing, the left lock insert and left freeway insert are always on. The right lock insert never lights up. The 5 freeway inserts never light up either.

Any advice with where to start this troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.

When in Single Lamp Test:

Freeway 1mil - insert doesn’t work
Freeway 2mil - insert doesn’t work
Freeway 3mil - insert doesn’t work
Freeway 4mil - insert doesn’t work
Freeway 5mil - insert doesn’t work
Lock (2) - only lites left orbit lock insert
Get Away - lites both orbit RPM inserts
Speed Millions - lites left freeway insert as well
Super Jackpot - lites left lock insert as well
Video Mode - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
Burn Rubber - lites left freeway insert as well
Extra Ball - lites left lock insert as well
Bottom Red - lites both orbit RPMs as well
Bottom Yellow - lites left freeway insert as well
Bottom Green - lites left lock insert as well
Tach 14 - lites both RPM inserts as well
Tach 15 - lites left freeway insert as well
Shift - lites left lock as well
Supercharger - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
Redline Mania - lites left freeway insert as well
Credit Button - lites left lock insert as well
1st Gear - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
2nd Gear - lites left freeway insert as well
3rd gear - lites left lock insert as well
Tach 6 - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
Tach 7 - lites left freeway insert as well
Tach 8 - lites left lock insert as well

take a look at the lamp matrix in the manual and relate your outcomes in that. likely you will see that there is a pattern of your problems in it. things lighting up additionalyy will be in the same row or column as the one you intended to light. that will tell you which tranistors are dead.

http://www.iobium.com/Tech%20Templates/Getaway-tech.pdf

I may have been touching the traces.
I guess I should only be touching the tiny nubs

Thank you! So it looks like my issues are all in column 1 and rows 6, 7 and 8. Should I start with replacing those 4 transistors? I have a couple TIP102 transistors but I'll have to order a few extras and some TIP107 transistors. I haven't troubleshooted a lamp matrix issue like this before so this is new territory for me.

If you are going to replace transistors, I believe you can only accurately test them when they are removed from the circuit board (please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've done it a few times and the readings when installed didn't always match the readings when removed). If that's the case I would just do one at a time, test it to make sure it is bad, and they replace if bad or if it is not then you know your issue lies somewhere else.

...okay, I’m probably less pinball smart than most of you...but wouldn’t it make sense to look at the diodes on the lamps first? For me, every lamp matrix issue I’ve had (which is a grand total of 2) has been a bad diode or improperly wired diode problem.

Board issues can be complex or fairly easy, I've replaced resistors on an old board that was fairly straight forward as to what the issues were (EATPM listed what ones controlled what lights). In my Party Zone I was getting the ground short errors that drove me crazy and would take out entire rows, turned out it was my U20 chip that went bad. In my Getaway it was the GI pins on J120 were toasted behind the board. All of these were within my level of willingness to repair but there have been times when it was beyond what I was able to do and I turned to others for help. If it were me I'd pm Chris Hibler and see what he recommends. There is a level of knowledge that is far beyond me, maybe not others here, but Chris is a great guy with vast knowledge and I bet he would be willing to help. He does great board work too if needed and when I was in way over my head he repaired my board and they have been perfect ever since. Good luck and I'm sorry about your issues but the good news is it can be repaired

Yes, you can get accurate readings of bad transistors whilst in situ and there is several methods of testing, the one described in pinwiki (depends on which type of TIP- NPN / PNP) and you can also do a so called 'dirty test'. Diodes on the other hand quite often need to have one leg de-soldered to get an accurate reading i believe.

Ok, so I found out why the right lock insert and Freeway Mil inserts weren't working. It was a broken wire. Now they're working so I did another single lamp test and recorded the results on the lamp matrix in the manual. The results are that only column 1 is working without issue. Columns 2-8 all lite up an extra insert somewhere on the playfield. I'm thinking this has to be an issue on the driver board. Seems to me very unlikey that many diodes have failed. I did test about 10 of the diodes on the inserts that have issues and they all checked out fine at around .650v.

Side note, are driver boards swappable? I have a Dr Who and Dracula which are both WPC Fliptronic 2. That would narrow it down to a board issue or playfield issue.

Here's my results with all light boards now working:

2x - lites 1mil insert as well
4x - lites 2mil insert as well
Hold Bonus - lites 3mil insert as well
6x - lites 4mil insert as well
8x - lites 5mil insert as well
Get Away - lites both orbit RPM inserts
Speed Millions - lites left freeway insert as well
Super Jackpot - lites both lock inserts as well
Top Red - lites 1mil insert as well
Top Yellow - lites 2mil insert as well
Top Green - lites 3mil insert as well
Right Freeway - lites 4 mil insert as well
Special (2) - lites 5mil insert as well
Video Mode - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
Burn Rubber - lites left freeway insert as well
Extra Ball - lites both lock inserts as well
Tach 1 - lites 1mil insert as well
Tach 2 - lites 2mil insert as well
Tach 3 - lites 3mil insert as well
Tach 4 - lites 4mil insert as well
Tach 5 - lites 5mil insert as well
Bottom Red - lites both orbit RPMs as well
Bottom Yellow - lites left freeway insert as well
Bottom Green - lites both lock inserts as well
Drive Again - lites 1mil insert as well
Kickback - lites 2mil as well
Tach 11 - lites 3mil insert as well
Tach 12 - lites 4mil insert as well
Tach 13 - lites 5mil insert as well
Tach 14 - lites both RPM inserts as well
Tach 15 - lites left freeway insert as well
Shift - lites both locks as well
2x Freeway - lites 1mil insert as well
2x RPM - lites 2mil insert as well
123banks bot - lites 3mil insert as well
123banks mid - lites 4mil insert as well
123banks top - lites 5mil insert as well
Supercharger - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
Redline Mania - lites left freeway insert as well
Credit Button - lites both lock inserts as well
4th gear - lites 1mil insert as well
5th gear - lites 2mil insert as well
Stop Light Red - lites 3mil insert as well
Stop Light Yellow - lites 4mil insert as well
Stop Light Green - lites 5mil insert as well
1st Gear - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
2nd Gear - lites left freeway insert as well
3rd gear - lites both lock inserts as well
Tach 9 - lites 1mil insert as well
Tach 10 - lites 2mil insert as well
Middle Red - lites 3mil insert as well
Middle Yellow - lites 4mil insert as well
Middle Green - lites 5mil insert as well
Tach 6 - lites both orbit RPM inserts as well
Tach 7 - lites left freeway insert as well
Tach 8 - lites both lock inserts as well

Decided to light the turbo and turbo boost plastics on the slings

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I would love to help you can you please screenshot the page on the manual and mark the problems in the lamp matrix. That way it will be much easier to understand what is going on.

An absolute must for this game.

Thank you. I’ve swapped my Dr Who driver board into the Getaway and everything worked as it should. So, I know the problem is on the Getaway driver board. Just need help tracking that down now. Columns 2-8 all trigger another insert when in single lamp test mode.

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Hi team. Searching for a getaway shooter gauge (the bracket that sits to the right of the apron) if anyone happens to have a spare sitting about?

Massive respect and pinball karma points (and cash) waiting.

Are you talking about this?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10136

I took a look at this. What you want to say is: "Every insert in any colums other than column 1, also lights the corresponding insert in column one."

The transistor belonging to column one is broken and permentntly on. PAge 3-19 in the manual tells you that is Q98. test it.

No, it's this one, but without the cutout:

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Unless I'm misunderstanding, this is what you want (metal shooter cover that attaches to side of apron - standard piece on Williams pins of the era): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10136

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^... what he said

Wow. I did not even see that pattern! I just got a delivery of new TIP107 transistors so I’ll replace Q98 and report back. Thank you!

So I am currently shopping my Getaway and I need to source a few parts but don't know exactly what to order from Marco or whatever.

First, I noticed the pieces on both sides as shown in the first picture which are located at the very backside of the playfield were loose. Turns out there was only one screw holding each side in and in addition you can see in the second picture (left side) that the metal piece (with prongs I believe) that the screw screws into is missing. I need to order two screws and two of these metal female pronged parts that the screw screws into. I can't figure out which screw to order and what the female part is. The screw is 1 7/8" excluding the head. No idea what the thread is on the screw or the female part.

Last I installed my new slides and yahoo! the playfield now lifts up properly. When installing them I tightened all the interior bolts but one of them (one of the upper ones that the playfield will sit on when in the normal down position) was somewhat loose and would not tighten. So I need to order the black cabinet bolt and on the other side I need the corresponding threaded "bolt" (see last two pictures). Not sure exactly what I need to order though.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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