You can still buy this bracket, part number 01-10904: https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=01-10904

It is mentioned under service bulletin 43 included on pages 16 and 17 of this 38 page PDF file: http://howtopinball.com/files/pinball/paperwork/williams/service-bulletins/williams-service-bulletin-book-1992-fall.pdf

(Originally found on the PinWiki page for Williams here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Service_Bulletins)

You can get that and many more Getaway decals for this bracket and others from Mr. Tantrum, Pinside member:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/129#post-3868238

http://thezumwaltfamily.com/pinball/

Really? My machine never had that. I just assumed someone took an L bracket and put a decal on it.

I believe both of these ball trap brackets were part of a service bulletin that occurred sometime after initial run(s). You can purchase both brackets at Marco Specialties, and the decals come from me.

Back left ball trap bracket: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10903
Back right ball trap bracket: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-10904

UPDATED: Sorry for the duplicate info. I posted my response before I turned the page and saw the post from AlexRogan84

I'm currently doing a playfield swap (this is my 6th swap) I got this playfield from Peter in Germany. Nothing underneath was dimpled, prepare to spend some extra time laying things out. Several holes were a little off. The bottom left sling-shot area metal ball guide, the holes were pre-drilled and about 1/4 inch off. This has been my worse repro playfield swap experience. Just want to give anyone that is interested in doing a swap with Peters playfields a heads up that it will take some extra time and effort to lay things out right.

rob

I've done just about everything there is to do on a pinball machine, but have never undertaken the daunting task of performing a playfield swap. Always respect those that do, and actually are able to put the game back together 100%.

BTW: My Getaway would definitely benefit from a new playfield.

I find it's easier to do on machines with less connectors to the head. I did it with my Gorgar and a mirco playfield. Overally pretty good experience, some minor re-drilling and troubleshooting. Did take me about 80 hours though.

I was actually on the pre-order list for the german playfields years ago. Then when he did the first runs, no dimples and some inserts were the opposite type in some spots (clear vs clouded). I think it's awesome the playfields were made, but I wasn't ready to take on that level of measurement for each hole. Sorry your swap experience has been less than stellar :/

UGH, I just put my Marco order through yesterday before I saw this. Note for Canadians/International shipping, Marco has a new deal with FedEx which I do not call a deal, at least for Canadians. I ordered about C$165 in parts, shipping was $50 and prepaid (by FedEx) duties and taxes was $35, so $85 just to get it here.

There has to be a better way. And there is, it's USPS, but Marco does not have that option anymore.

Much better than it was before... at least no waiting while the old shipping waited for a bulk shipping deal.
You have tracking numbers now as opposed to calling I Global crappy shipping and getting tracking numbers the day after it arrives.
Is pricey but you get 3 options

Quick update on the pin2dmd colorization for getaway. I am still working on this (wuite intensively actually), but gave in to my structure-OCD. This means I am currently working on putting all of the scenes and triggers into a naming scheme following the game, so it is easier to navigate.
Along the way I am writing down bugs I discover.

Next steps will be to
a. convert some of the long list of individual frames into "sequences", which will reduce the amount of individual assetts in the project
b. I will use the new 64 color option to also harmonize the color palettes using a defined set of colors. this is to reduce the amount of color shades currently used for the same things.
c. eliminate bugs as i find them

Focus of this effort is to learn as much as possible on how the different options work and how they can be used.

The video mode requires not only understanding, but also experience in naming and defining things right in order to not get mixed up along the way. I will take time for this.

I will not make the colorization available publicy until I have aligned with Malenko and slippifishi on it.

My Red Light Mania bulb on the ramp entrance sign will come on dimly anytime the 2nd gear light on the playfield below it is on. Anyone else have this happen on their machine?

I haven't measured the voltage, but I think it is a lot less than full as it is pretty dim compared to when it is on for real. It's consistent though, anytime you're in 2nd gear, that red light mania bulb also lights up dimly.

This happens at the beginning of every game as you're going through the gears and you can also see it when you change gears to start the video mode. Wasn't sure if I've got some kind of wiring crossover going on underneath that I need to figure out?

The sequences were broken down into individual frames for triggering and timing issues, you are just going to end up making them single frames again. If you look at the hitch hiker talking, well the frames don't play in the same order every time, so if you try to make that a sequence its not going to work. Trust me when I say anything that was done with a single frame was done for a reason.

I release the source just for this, so people can modify and learn from it, so you have my blessing to do anything you want with it. As always I prefer you release your modified source but I cant make you.

Do you have LEDs? Sounds like ghosting

Is this with an LED? Are you using non-ghosting LEDs?

When I first started collecting, I didn’t know what ghosting was. I drove myself crazy looking for bad diodes. In the end, non-ghosting bulbs usually did the trick.

...although in my T2 the diode in the skull was wired incorrectly and causing all kinds of lighting problems.

How about the non-ghosting software patch?

Never heard of it. Link to article or patch?

It sounds like this is what it must be. My game does have LED's, and I thought I had bought the non-ghosting ones, but it's entirely possible I didn't really know what I was choosing when I got them. Or it could be that a couple odd bulbs here and there got into my swap out pile.

This ghosting concept is basically where an LED will light up with just a small amount of power getting to it? And then the non-ghosting bulbs don't change the power coming to the socket, but simply don't come on unless a certain minimum power level is reached? Is that about how it is?

I absolutely understand and i.e. the cop radio scene i did disect into individual frames for that exact reason. However, the scenes which are always in the same order (like i.e. the heli-chase)i was thinking to do as 'color mask sequence' or 'replace sequence' rather than all individual frames.
I definitely don't want to lose the benefit of triggering frames one to one. A sequence does this with less assets in the project. Am I missing something here?

Thanks for the ok to release source. I will in that case. Should I send it to you to have it all in one place?

What you are describing sound exactly like ghosting. Needed or not, I only use Comet non-ghosting LEDs for all bulbs in my pins. To me it's worth the extra few cents to ensure I never have an issue and can swap bulbs in and out anywhere I want.

I had non-ghosting LEDs in mine which made no difference so I got the Patched Rom works perfectly with that installed.

Not sure if this has the actual patch that I got years ago, but the read looks familiar.
Have a read and see if it’s got a link to the batch file in it,

https://emmytech.com/arcade/led_ghost_busting/

Excellent, very excited. Thanks for the update.

Yeah, that's my understanding at least.

Okay, so as a long time Getaway owner but a short time Pinside member. I started on Pinside reading the Getaway club and am currently on page 192 or so of 220 after a few weeks. Man this is an active club.

So I want to query the club on LED lighting, specifically the "Art of Leds" by Comet Pinball (https://www.cometpinball.com/pages/the-art-of-pinball-leds) and how it relates/pertains to Getaway. I plan to go with all leds from Comet Pinball unless convinced otherwise.

I have Mr. Tantrum's LED list but no respect that list is a few years old and I know he made changes since.

I have also made note of many of the lighting mods (gauge plastics, rear lane, etc.) that I will be making.

But first a number of questions.

First off, GI. Comet states frosted bulbs, Warm White for for games with warm artwork (yellows, oranges, & reds), Cool White (previously known as Natural White) for games with cold artwork (blues & blacks) and Sunlight for anything that isn’t an obvious choice for Warm White or Cool White. What works best for Getaway? Should I choose one for all or mix them up and if the latter what?

Next the inserts. Comet suggests Cool White (previously "Natural White") for white inserts, Warm White for yellow inserts and pink for orange inserts (crazy, but true!). Color match everything else (green for green, red for red, etc). I don't think Comet specifies frosted/clear, domed/non-domed, not sure what to pick. I am aware that some of the inserts need flex bulbs, such as the Freeride insert.

Getaway does have yellow (stop light, etc.) and orange (RPM, etc.) Color matching everything else is easy. Does warm white for yellow and pink for orange work for Getaway? Or should I just use yellow and orange? Or something else?

Or should I just use Cool White for everything to keep things simple?

Last, non-ghosting bulbs are a given, but should I be considering the Comet Ultimate Optix aka Flex bulbs?

Next up I will be asking about what silicone rubbers to use. The first question on that, should I be looking at Titan or is there a better alternative?

Thanks in advance for your input.

GI is meant to be white. Using colors will wash out all the art on the plastics. So White is a good choice. I use the warm white two-SMD clear dome type (used on Stern as default) for my GI an I am very happy with it.

Pink under orange works great ... nice vibrant color

So this ones been frustrating me lately. I’m not sure what’s changed to cause this:

There doesn’t seem to be enough travel between the ramp up and the ramp down positions. The pin that goes underneath the ramp can be adjusted slightly up and down on the activator arm. But, for some reason:
- if I set the pin so the ramp is high enough in the up position to let a ball go under, then it doesn’t go all the way down in the down position.
- if I set the pin so the ramp flap touches the playfield in the down position, then there’s not enough clearance for a ball when it’s in the up position.

The machine never had a ramp flap since I bought it. This issue was first noticed a couple of weeks ago without the flap. I since added the flap hoping that this would solve the problem, but it didn’t.

Anyone else ever experience this situation?

Its almost like the catch on the down ramp actuator is grabbing the actuating arm too low, but I’m not sure how/why this could happen.

I’m currently away from the machine until at least Wednesday evening...but I just can’t get this issue out of my head. Any suggestions in the meantime would be appreciated.

Lot's of questions, and you are right in that I have changed my LED's over the last couple of years, both on the playfield and in backbox. However, my guide is still 99%+ accurate as far as the bulb types and quantities you need.

In general, only use white under plastics for GI lighting. You want them to be frosted for light diffusion and because some/many of them will be in line of site of the player and clear bulbs can be blinding. In this pin I have/prefer cool white which gives a cleaner brighter look (you should make them all the same). If you prefer the classic incandescent look then I suggest sunlight white. If you doubt this, check out the rainbow puke forum and you will see how bad colored GI looks in a multitude of applications. Colored bulbs ruin the artwork and you loose all of the detail and coloring. My only exception to this is well placed colors in some places in the backbox. The only reason this works is that because you still have white light dominating and bleeding throughout, so if you add a red bulb behind the red lambo to make the color deeper, it works IMO.

However, I do use colored flashers in different areas (I have green under the green plastics, blue under my return lanes, and white in some areas - I did have red in the return area, but when I switched to more of a blue theme I swapped them out).

These are now my favorite bulbs for backglass and inserts. They are nice and bright, which I like: https://www.cometpinball.com/products/4smd-non-ghosting

I use all non-ghosting bulbs in my pin. It will cost a little more, but you are assured that nothing will ghost, and you can swap any bulb out with others without having to worry if they are ghosting or not, and move them from pin to pin if you ever have a need to.

As far as inserts go, I match colors to insert except I usually use warm white for orange and cool white for yellow. I suggest you spend $10-$15 and place a sample order with Comet of various colors and types of bulbs you might be interested in. You can use these to test what you like before you go all in on a full order. Also, when you do order, buy a few extras of the main bulbs you use and even some colors. You will find that a bulb or two may break, you may decide you want a different color under a certain insert, etc.

Don't get the non ghosting bulbs just get the non ghosting rom. I run it and it works great. The only problem is you have to go underground to get it because PPS gets mad if people try to sell them. They promised their own non ghosting rom patch years ago, but big shocker it has never showed up.

Does anyone know the appropriate checksum of L2 with no anti-ghost patch? I'm fairly sure mine doesn't have it. I have the ability to patch it myself, just want to make sure before ordering some chips.

Planetary Pinball only has the L5 and I'm not ready to lose my secret mania and all the chaos it causes.

Edit: Oh...didn't realize they were up on IPDB...I'm a bit surprised to be honest if the licensed rights are owned by PPS.

Speaking of roms, it has been mentioned on this forum that Soren had made a new L5 rom that fixes certain things. Did that actually happen as I can find no place to obtain it? Or were there licensing issues, etc.?

Thanks.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades/

Question now on replacement rubbers.

I plan to go with all Titan silicone replacement rubbers unless you can recommend better ones out there. I also plan to do things fairly faithfully to the original flyers/promotional video. In the promo video all the rubbers appear to be white, except for red on all three flippers. The posts are all black except for the larger yellow post to the left of the supercharger entrance. Interestingly, there are some differences I noticed in the flyer pics. The flyer shows black rubber on the main flippers and both red and black on the upper flipper depending on what picture you look at. It also shows a red post to the right of the supercharger which I think I like better than black as the yellow/red post combination would match the yellow/red of the supercharger lights (which are oddly reversed in the flyer).

For the "white" Titan rubbers do people generally prefer to go translucent or stick with white?

Also for the flipper rings Titan has the option of "Standard" or "Low Bounce Standard", what do people generally prefer there? And is that for all three flippers?

Finally is there accurate rubber list somewhere or should I just rely on the manual?

Thanks in advance.

It's wrong .... Dont trust it

Have done three getaways, here is the closest I can get, all three were a little bit different, but this kit covered them all, I used Titan silicone

C5CC56A5-2542-4480-9E0F-5563A1978398 (resized).jpeg

I ordered white rubber rings with my kit and it annoyingly continues to leave white smudges on the balls. So much so that the ball starts to play like it's got English on it like on a pool table. Terribly irritating and I think it's happening on account of the rubber quality in that kit. I take the balls out every few days and clean them off and reinstall and it's not my favorite thing at the moment!!

I actually thought perhaps that yellow post would have been meant for the one directly under the traffic light. My kit came with 8 black posts and 1 yellow and there are only 8 spots so I think the idea was you could use the yellow if you wanted to or go with all black instead.

I noticed that inconsistency on the flipper colours depending on which flyer photo you are looking at too.

I would also agree with the comment about the manual not necessarily being correct for rubber quantities and types. They flat out miss locations on their little diagram. My game came to me with the rubber ring placement all wrong as many of the locations up top by the pop bumpers are doubled up and for whatever reason, mine had only a single ring on each location. I also think there is some variation in the way you can do the posts and rings right at the bottom edge of the left pop bumper and this can have a big impact on how easy or hard it is for you to shoot the ball around that loop and then up the lock ramp.

I would look over as many of the playfield shopped out images as you can and see what you might like to do on your own game. Or if you click on images in this thread, you can page through tons of different pictures and see plenty of them that will show you such variations.

I went with clear at first but then switched to red (I also changed the red posts out to clear ones). If you search my name in this thread, you will see pics of both configurations.'

When looking back at my Titan order, here is what I bought for Getaway (I didn't buy post sleeves or flipper rings in this order - btw, get the low bounce flipper rings):
pasted_image (resized).png

You should try 2 3/4 on slings

Thus far, I've liked the 2-1/2" (of course there the only size I've used on both my sets, so I have nothing to compare them to). I didn't have any issues installing them and they are extremely active. What is the difference by going 1/4" larger?

Silicone doesn’t like to be stretched, keep it a little tighter then its natural state and they will last a lot longer

Gotcha. Never hurts to have backups, so I'll add those to the list next time I need to place an order. Thanks for the advice.

I asked Steve Ritchie about the yellow post at TPF a couple years ago, but we were sitting at the bar and don’t remember his answer

Sorry maybe I'm being thick here but if you go up a larger size from 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 wouldn't it be a little looser not a little tighter?

Yes, it'll be a little looser than the smaller one but it will be a bit closer to 'it's natural state' as was said.

What size rubber goes on those little red posts on the plastics?

Edit: Looks like its 7/16 OD, correct?

Here's a bit of a radical idea. Given that there is orange striping around each plastic and lots of orange on the playfield, what do you guys think of orange rubber throughout (other than flippers that I likely will leave red)?

Not a fan of orange rings with red star posts, but if you swapped those out to clear (like I did) then orange might look pretty good.

My star posts are all clear, I thought that's the way they were originally.

I just looked at the manual and it specifies clear, I never knew. Mine came with red installed, and they were old a dingy so I assumed they were OEM. Wonder if someone swapped them out along the way (that would have been the only mod done to it before I bought it) or if it came from the factory with red.

I also just zoomed in on the game flyer, and they are indeed clear. Guess I went back to stock without even knowing it.

ca anyone point me in the right direction ,,, there was a post on here of a person who had made the flashing light bar that goes on top of cop cars ,, he made that light bar mod for above the ramp ,,, i cannot seem to find it now
thanks all

I posted this in the DMD Tech forum but thought I would ask here as well since people here are so knowledgeable.

My J120 connector on my Road Show PDB has burnt as you can see in the picture. I will get an 11 pin header and resolder onto the board but for the connector should I replace it with the same thing or should I put in a Molex connector?

Or should I just get this Marco Specialties GI Update Cable Kit for WMS WPC Games? You can see it in the picture and the description is below. Seems a bit expensive at $40 but since it is a pre-done molex perhaps it is worth it.

Thanks in advance.

GI UPDATE CABLE KIT FOR WMS WPC GAMES
#H-GIUPDATE-WPC
General illumination update cable kit for Williams WPC System games. Includes keyed male and female connectors.

Replacement parts for burnt connectors on WPC games. Replaces Playfield and Insert cables at J120 and J121.

Kit includes:

Update cable with Molex Trifurcon™ pins
Keyed 11 pin .156 inch spacing header
12 pin Molex .062 inch diameter standard plug and crimping pins
Cable ties
**INSTALLATION NOTES:
Additional tools required! Barrel crimp tool and soldering iron needed.

Replace header on PCB.
Cut back burnt playfield or backbox cable, strip wires and crimp on new pins, insert wires into connector to match mating connector on update cable.
Reference:

H-GIUPDATE-WPC

IMG_3771 (resized).jpg

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