Any mod black friday sales coming up? I really want to add a color2dmd and/or donut heaven into mine to complete the look!

I’m attempting to replace the rubbers by the pops, but I’m confused by what I removed versus what IPDB shows. There are double grooved posts allowing for the stacking of rubbers,but do they possibly use a large band on the bottom tying three posts together, with a single rubber on the top groove of each respective post, or larger bands tying three posts together top and bottom?

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Maybe this will help

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The manual is wrong

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Great, yes it does help! So I have the rubbers on the right side correct. I can't tell from your pic if I have them correct on the left side. kdunbar also responded and it appears I may have the left side incorrect. Thanks!!

Thanks! I apparently have the right side correct, but not the left. The way I replaced the rubbers on the left was how I removed them, but IPDB threw me.

Here’s a kit I made at Titan pinball

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How many bulbs in the headboard? 555 or 44/47 have a game coming but want to do my light or in advance
Thanks for the help
A pic with the translight off and the game off would be great

I’ve already hit the sack, but if you search my name I know I’ve posted a light board pic before.

These are 555 and flashers 906

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Thanks for your time

NP, I hope it helps

Can someone humor me as to the part number for the little rubber bulb "condoms" like the two on the supercharger ramp entrance? Nothing comes up in a search on the Marco parts page for bulb condom. Go figure!? lol I'd like to replace the yellow one as it's missing on my machine.

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Get rid of them and just put in colored LEDs (they originally were used to change the light color). I've gone white domes previously, but now I have clear faceted domed ones and like them best (red and amber).

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-bulbs

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I did find them ironically. Lamp covers they go by. I found about 20 of them rolling around in the bottom of my Lethal Weapon 3 when I first got it.

Hadn't realized that's how they made the colour differences originally. Guess I never thought about it. On the Party Zone, there is an all red effect with one of the GI strings. For multiball and the "Big Bang" jackpot... would that red effect been also done by these rubber bulb covers back in the day? I am meaning to replace all those GI lights with LEDs and wondered which ones should be which colour. Might end up finding more of these rubber covers once I go in there.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Lamp+cover+
I prefer the silicone ones

I'm troubleshooting an intermittent beacon light and need some help. The light bulb itself always comes on, but the motor making the disc spin doesn't always come to life. Inevitably, if I reach up and tap firmly to the side of the light on top of the backbox, it starts rotating. Kind of seems to me like it's caught on something.

I've taken it off and looked and it doesn't seem to be catching on anything obvious. There's decent clearance all the way around. No obvious loose wires or connectors inside the cabinet going to the boards up top either.

I see on the Marco website that you can buy a replacement, heavy duty upgraded motor. Here: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7971

You can see though how it says it might not be your motor and to check these other things. The one that caught my eye is where it says the "o-ring belt may be too tight."

What are they talking about with this? Is there a belt inside the motor? I have not taken my motor apart. Anyone have pics of the inside of a motor or can tell me what this o-ring belt reference means?

Thanks.

F-14 has 3 beacons with 2 o-rings use as belts. If the o-rings are too small the motor isn't strong enough to turn the reflectors. On your game there is no o-rings, the reflector is mounted directly to the motor shaft. So either the motor is dieing or the grease inside the housing is dried up and isn't lubricating the gears any more. I have taken this type of motor/gearbox apart and cleaned out the old grease and replaced it with new grease.

Awesome. Thank you very much. Good explanation. And simple too. I'll definitely open up the motor I have and see what the condition of the grease is. Cheers.

Does this take away the grinding sounds?

Just joined the Club... the teardown has begun, all guides have been polished , 4 coats of pure wax , LED bulbs installed .
Thanks to Mr_Tantrum for help and many great mods that he makes for this game. Some installed some still to go..
Just awaiting a parts order to finish .

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Can someone take a picture of their first switch in the right loop? From the topside? My actuator looks to be the wrong one.

is it supposed to be this actuator? I have the "skinnier" blade that sticks up for ball to roll over. Sometimes the ball gets hung up on it.

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Dispatch to 50004, over. This is 50004, over.

No! A new motor will.

I've been working on my flippers a little bit. I have done the flipper rebuild kits on all three. I still feel like the lower right flipper is a bit weak, especially as it gets right out to the tip of the flipper. I think it might be an adjustment of some kind needed on the EOS switches, but not really sure. I also think there's too much slop in the bushing on the right side, but I don't know how or what to adjust that out. These were new bushings too with the rebuild kits.

The flipper buttons are also a little suspect. I have new ones coming, but the ones in there don't have much of a spring out resistance, and I like feeling that on the buttons. This is usually from the internal spring in the button or from the tip of the button plunger resting on the top of the leaf spring metal tab. The thing is though, with the Getaway, it seems like there isn't enough room on that right flipper leaf switch to move things around or in and out because the stacked base of the switch is right snug up with the bracket on the shifter.

You guys have this scenario on your machines too? Where the leaf switch is wedged in there under that angled top bracket part of the shifter mechanism? This is I guess necessary because the right switch has the dual acting blades for the top flipper. I think that's what is going on there anyway.

Here's a pic of what I mean. Early pic when I got the game. A few things have changed, but that geometry is still the same for the switch base and the shifter bracket.

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I am starting to restore my Getaway, playfield swap, cabinet restore. What's the thought on the supercharger, should I go ahead and change the magnets and how about the optos ? I have had the game 10 years with no issues. I'm on the fence, thought I would see if anyone could input one way or the other.

thanks much
Rob

Supercharger has no moving parts; really genius design. I don’t see why you would replace anything that’s not broke. Just clean everything and use windex or rubbing alcohol on the optos

I did have to change a broken opto once but it was really easy.

No to the mags, but definitely replace all of the optics as they have caused woes for many of us.

Back left corner too dark ... added an extra light and tapped power from the GI

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end result

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So when I got this game the logo painted on the apron was absolutely beat. Found a spare used apron and until it gets here and gets Powder Coated I vinyl wrapped the one in the picture.

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My getaway is going for a full resto as soon as there is a place in the queue. Have a new cleared playfield, new coulor dmd, new cab decals and plastics and just ordered just about every mod Mr tantrum makes for it.

Gunna be beautiful enough to sit next to my Sorcerer when it's finished and i can't wait.

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Looking good. I've done just about everything to my Getaway except replace the playfield. It could definitely use one, but up to this point I've just been too chicken to undertake the challenge.

Shit, i'm not doing it myself, don't even do most of my own fault fixing.

I managed a forget playfield swap in about 100 hours. It's not for the faint of heart. I intended on doing my getaway, but I have too many other projects and become disheartened waiting for years on the playfield

Hi guys,

How do you get the l2 Rom? How do you install it ?

My game is pretty stock....

Thx

I have never done it, but it's an actual chip you'll need to replace. As opposed to the modern style of using a USB or SD card.

It's not hard, just take your time and be careful you do not bend the pins... It's the gold Rom L2 in the middle left inside the backbox and the old rom L1 is sitting on top of the PinLed manual, if it helps. Just slowly pull the old rom off the board, try not to damage it as you may want to use it again. These install one way, like ram in a pc but they have little tiny pins.

I forget where I bought mine but they are fairly common and you may try the market place here on Pinside.

Edit: Make sure your machine is turned off.

I hope this helps.
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How do you get the extra ball in video mode... aim for sign?

lol, to me it's luck... just run through the EB when it appears, if you can. I'm usually trying to make it to the end of the timer for the points.

I had a way of getting this EB to pop-up fairly consistently once upon a time. I used to do it by hugging one side or the other. Like go to the left and keep pressing the left button while you're there. It seemed like that was daring the logic to throw the EB sign up on the far side. And it often would. You would need to dart over and get it (by driving through it, as mentioned). I only ever did this in the lowest gear... meaning, I never changed gears and so the car moved much slower. If you get to the end of the race, you're only looking at about 12 mil, but if you get the extra ball along with that, it's well worth it.

Going to try this ...
Thanks to all for the replies
HNY

I tried it right after I posted that and it didn't work. It might need a longer video mode drive time than the default as it felt like it used to come towards the end of the run. Can't remember what the default is, like 14 seconds or something. It might need to go out to 20. I'll try it a few more times and see if I can get it to happen.

Otherwise, I bet I have played 300 games in the one month I've had my Getaway and I don't recall seeing the EB in video mode a single time. Might also be related to the EB percentage it's set to in settings or it could possibly be related to which version of the code the game is running. My machine is on L2.

I'm on the same .....

Use one of these chip pullers

https://www.amazon.com/KNACRO-Professional-Extractor-WTS-610-Assisted/dp/B07G9ZC6V1/ref=pd_sbs_469_6/142-7810192-3466222

I've been using the same one for 15 years.

PC ram is "keyed" to fit only one way. Your WPC rom in your Getaway will fit either way it's oriented. But, only one way is correct. Look at the half circle on the chip. You can either match the direction of your old rom or look at the silkscreen on the board under the chip after it's pulled out. There will be a half circle silkscreened to show correct orientation. See pic below for example of half circle at the end of the chip.

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I'm finally gonna put something in other than the proto rom (P-C) in mine, I think. I have no idea if it's causing any issues or not (As i mentioned before the only issue I know of is with the diverter and it seems to throw the error when it lowers the ball lock ramp / clears it when I hit the supercharger). But I suck at this game so...