Yeah they're technically DE caps. Standard on almost all of their games. But they fit Williams just fine.

Yep, and that react function is busted on my red one so I either have them all set to react and just accept that red never does it or leave react off on all and have centers on always. I think it's a bit overkill having the centers on full-time but I haven't ordered replacements yet. I was really hoping PBL would restock the yellow caps again after I bought their last two. Alas, it doesn't seem they're coming back. Not that they're not available through many other shops...

I love those bulbs. They're such a nice mod on just about anything early-80s and newer.

Ordered some clear ones thanks, surprisingly cheaper to order at marcospecialties.com instead in E.U

I don’t see this in the plastic set. Is the custom made?

FE903F0A-95C7-4C25-A21D-173777C81223 (resized).jpeg

Yes, sir. You can PM me if interested. BTW, my original post shows the decal on top, but I now make them with reverse decals applied to the underside to better match the look of the OEM plastics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/70#post-3415047

My latest PinSound orchestration for Getaway (version 14) is now available for download: http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/329-getawayhs2-v14_80smtv_customcallouts_mrtantrum

What's next . . . might be time for someone to do a Van Halen orchestration.
pasted_image (resized).png

Stainless steel.

Eur 15, plus eur 4 shipping by unregistered letter on buyers risk. Or eur 37 shipping for bulk to usa and then redistribution.
Only 13 slots left.

Mr_Tantrum what do you think?
088cc725820a87a81d073d8be1341d060a0e77f5.png (resized).png

Well done.

It's a longshot but does anyone make a decal for the orange ring around the "Drive Again" insert? I'm picking up a getaway and it has a small chip there. Figure I should look for a decal before working on color matching that orange.

That orange will be impossible to match via a printer (laser or inkjet) due to the limited color gamut of CMYK & CMYK+ print technologies. However, you can nail it with paint. Here is where I documented my playfield repairs: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-pinside-touch-up-paint-color-thread#post-4826449

I put a Van Halen orchestration together awhile ago but never got around to testing it in the pin, and I know the volume levels of the music will have to get punched up a little. If no one else does one, maybe I'll resurrect the one I have.

Batch will be done on Friday. Only one run of 15 pieces. 11 still available.
I'm not the one selling them, but I bought one.

The seller ist this guy in the German forum.
https://www.flippermarkt.de/community/forum/members/buschtaxi.28583/

German engineered so to speak.

IMG-20201013-WA0000 (resized).jpg

So... When there is only one ball left to put in the launch lane.... sometimes It will eject the ball and it will bounce right back into the hole. I have to shake the machine exactly right to get it to sit in the launch lane to shoot out.

It ruins multiball when it happens. It ruins the game if you have 2 locked and it won't eject correctly bc it releases your balls.

Any suggestions?

So what's the process for buying this? Message the person on flippermarket? I'd like to buy at least one just in case.

Could you post a photo of where exactly this piece goes. Thanks.

I had this problem with mine. I just had to bend the little metal flap down a bit on the exit of the trough. Changed the trajectory and kept the balls from bouncing right back in.

Good luck,
Jeff

It is the post holding the supercharger ramp in front over the 3 bank.

Quite common for this to break (mine was broken when I bought the pin), and hasn’t been a replacement for years. Most of us end up replacing with an alternative DIY, so nice that these are available for people.

Decided to go back to original speakers from Pinsound connection. I assume one of the three wires is a ground? Can someone post a photo of the original speaker wiring. Any easy way to determine the ground wire? Thanks for the help!

462E1CDC-5AA7-4031-911E-84752937D102 (resized).jpeg

Here are some photos of how the original speakers are attached. The woofer won’t work unless they are connected in this sequence.

Do I need the blue resister(?) on the right side speaker? What is this used for? Thanks again.

71E14117-E40F-4DC2-BBB3-4C581FBCC0C1 (resized).png

BD6F021A-EF32-48EA-B984-110D63D791BD (resized).png

..

Hi, I am working on an alternative speaker panel which can be illuminated.
Therefore I have redrawn the complete panel by hand. What do you think of
the translite + speakerpanel combo?

The_Getaway_Preview_Grau_dunkler_dunkel_Muster_01_ (resized).jpg

The_Getaway_Preview_Grau_dunkler_dunkel_Muster_01_A (resized).jpg

the grey pattern shows where the individual patterns were stiched together. That would need to be fixed. Otherwise awesome!!!

yep i agree! use the clone tool to add some randomness into the background pattern and it will be perfect.

If using Photoshop, you should also try utilizing the random fill function when filling with pattern.

First of all, congrats. pinballjah is a great guy, and quite active here on Pinside. As it relates to the shifter part, I actually designed a 3D printed version for a custom shifter I made. I’d have to do a little redesign for it to work with the original rod, but PM me and we can discuss.

The shifter error is common even on a completely working machine. If you tend to only shift the same way each time(up everytime for example), it raises an error until it sees the other switch pushed. Usually just pushing it up and down will resolve the error. If the ball launches when you shift up or down, you may be chasing a non-issue.

Glad you are enjoying the game. I have never seen a shifter error before. You definitely have a knack for pinballs, having already taken this assembly apart. Most if not all of the decals came from Mr_Tantrum, if you want to add anymore. He has a lot to choose from including an updated stop light and a real mountain mod. Sorry to see this game go from my collection.

To easily test this put the machine in switch test mode and move the gear shift both up and down to see if the switches register. If they do then the issue is most likely exactly what alexred stated (many of us have a tendency to only shift one way or the other). Simply shifting both ways will remove the credit dot (if there even is one) and fix error (may have to reboot pin or play another game). If one of the switches doesn't register, then you can troubleshoot from there (bad switch, loose wire/soldier, etc.)

In the absence of a true Van Halen pin, I installed about 20 of my favorite Van Halen tracks into my Getaway.
If you have PinSound in your Getaway you can download and install my Van Halen sound package here if you are interested:
http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/335-getawayhs2-v6_estroh_vanhalen10/

The main theme soundtrack actually uses five early DLR tracks:
Ain't Talkin' Bout Love
And the Cradle will Rock
Jamie's Cryin
Runnin' with the Devil
You Really Got Me (which I think works best after the "Eruption" ball launch track)
If you want to have just one play, you'll have to delete the others.

As the game progresses you'll hear later tracks and more of Sammy's vocals.

Big Thanks to Mr_Tantrum for the instruction and the voice files.

Enjoy!
a3e5ad734b1179c46be3949b179639cf (resized).jpg

https://www.pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/336-getawayhs2-v6_estroh_vanhalen10/

Awesome, really looking forward to installing it.

BTW, One of my favorite album covers of all time. Who knows what my parents were thinking when I brought this home.
van-halen-1984 (resized).jpg

Currently working with another pinsider on pop bumper with W2812B LEDs, these will change colour with the traffic light and strobe blue/red when Mars lamp is on. Ive designed the pop bumper PCB with 60mm diameter LEDs to fit inside clear DE caps. Will be adding 2812 speaker LEDs also.

photo_6976161313824485051 (resized).jpgphoto_8825538619139452277 (resized).jpg

Hmm...that might be interesting. I'm using high speed pop bumper caps on mine and they're still my favorite so far. Light changing ones might be neat - though I worry a bit bright. With that much light do you think a frosted bumper cap might diffuse it well?

Anyone heard of special coding available for HS2?

That sounds pretty neat... isn't the wiring too tricky ? You have to hook up your bumper to the 3 lamps of the traffic light and to the Mars circuit... And I guess you hide an arduino or similar somewhere ?

I would LOVE to see this when you're finished. As a half step in that direction, have you considered just red (or just blue) for normal mode, and then a flashing red/blue when the mars lamp is going? That would be a little smaller pill to swallow...

So I have been on this on and off for about a year, currently I use opto isolators from the lamp matrix to make the colours change from the Traffic light using an Arduino the code which was written by a programmer in the UK was done because the lamp matrix are electrical pulses not a high / low signal so the Arduino code has to compensate for this. The code is closed off so no modifications and currently does not do the Mars Lamp trick.

The Pop bumper 2812B PCBs are a new design of mine for 70mm diameter LEDs for Williams caps & 60mm for the DE caps as I don't like gluing the normal rings into the caps.

I run a Jamma PSU 12v & 5v in the Pinball to run any MODs. Pin2DMD etc so the LEDs run from the Jamma 5v PSU the 6Vac is disconnected and cannot be used. I send a data line through the pop bumper assembly and pick the power up from now the 5v bulb holder.

The main change which has yet to be fitted to my machine is someone else's design of a board that reads the WPC Bus and sends codes to the Arduino.

These codes are triggered by the lamp matrix, solenoids & flashers and because there are from the WPC bus it means no more pulsing of the signal, this makes the Arduino code easier to create and really can run any mods that need interaction with the machine like speaker LEDs etc.

I have experimented with using window frosting paint in the caps, this works well but of course I can lower the brightness of the LEDs as they are 2812B.

I have got 6 white LEDs on the bottom as well to light the table.

I should have this finished in about 2 weeks, waiting for some more PCBs from China. The colours and patterns can be changed by the Arduino code.

Did you all see this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades
We may get a bug free Getaway rom one of these days!

Pardon my ignorance, but what's buggy with Getaway? I'm using rev P-C 3/24/92 (I think? I'm very green on this stuff) if it matters.

20201118_142209 (resized).jpg

Holy shit! Man that'd be great. Having a setting for the free ride time would be great too. People have the hardest time keeping the ball alive on mine.

What matters it the ROM revision that shows up on the DMD when you boot up your machine (L2, L3, L5 or something like that)
Each of these versions has pros/cons (missing features and/or bugs)
See post #45 of this thread for info.

???

20201119_091600 (resized).jpg

You are running OLD prototype ROMs

Yeesh.

To be more specific, you are running the last prototpye set , after P-7 but before L-2 . I dont know the differences between the protos and the release roms though.

I haven't identified anything that 'appears' off (aside from the fact that the diverter seems to throw an error every time it lowers the ramp to lock balls and then clears it when I hit the supercharger, and I'm assuming this is a hardware issue I just haven't yet addressed) but admittedly I'm still very green to this game in general since I've only had it a couple months. I'm sure there are things I just don't know any better to question about how this software is running.