If you are referring to the one mounted on the right side of the SC loop, then #01-10904 is indeed the part you need (same exact one I purchased). You can just see mine behind the Lambo in this pic with the slippery road sign decal on it.

b8200457f9327f6cd31127c93892dad30ed95957 (resized).jpg

That is the bracket I was thinking of, but now that I'm looking at it, I'm not sure it would help my issue. What is that supposed to prevent? Here's where my ball keeps getting stuck:

IMG_20200407_190902 (resized).jpg

How does the ball make it to that spot? After going up the lift ramp?

Must have come off the wire form somehow.

Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing your journey with us, and the game looks absolutely fabulous! I love all of your personal touches to the game.

Yeah honestly I'm not too sure. I cleaned the playfield and it happened 2 games in a row. The ball is moving so fast now.

It only happens when I hit the shot SUPER cleanly. I'm speculating that it hugs the back wall after climbing the ramp, then bounces towards center-playfield, causing it to bounce off the left side of the wireform, and back to the right. A little confusing. I'll maybe try to get a slow-mo video tonight so I can verify.

Nice video. Sick machine.

I don't understand how this can even happen. You're definitely going to have to get a video of it to see exactly how it is happening.

I tried to get a video of the ball hopping the wire form, but couldn't replicate the error. Guess it was some extreme luck that it happened 2 games in a row!

I'm sure if you have to take the glass off a few more times, you'll be wanting to figure out a fix. For now, play and enjoy!

What are those brackets on each side by the glass? They appear to support the glass. I think they are side lighting actually. Thanks.

Pin Stadiums

I have a few questions that I'm hoping a more educated person can help me out with:
1)Both of my slings are not firing. When the ball hits them it registers, but they don't fire.
2)the 2X light and the "Shift" light don't work (I'm terrible at wiring diagrams and such so I don't know what to look for)
3)the kickback doesn't fire when it drains on the left. Switch works, but kickback doesn't fire.

I think it is a power issue of some kind? Not really sure.

Thanks for the help

Check your fuses

Who's got the best stop light mod?

Mr Tantrum sells 2 kinds, one with clear lenses and one with colored lenses. They are great, I have one

2020-04-11 (resized).jpg

getaway1 (resized).jpg

Can someone try downloading my Pulp Fiction orchestration and tell me if it works ok in their machine. The original posting didn't have the file attached. Here is the link. Thanks for the help!

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/312-pulp_fiction_pinballjah-v2/

What should I look for with a weak plunger kicker that won't get the ball into the playfield. It doesn't happen every time, but mainly during multiball. Any ideas?

I had a weak plunger problem a couple of years ago, and my issue ended up being that the nylon cylinder that sits inside the bell armature assembly (aka the plunger), had broken loose inside of the metal housing. I tried to repair it to no avail, but a new part from Marco's and the issue has been resolved ever since (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-15709). FYI, this is the one for the Kickback plunger (left lane): https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6306-2

So, I would see if you can move the tip that extends out of the armature by hand (rotate and/or in and out), and it you can then its time to replace it.

What exactly do you mean, the ball launches and drops back down into the shooter lane or the ball won't make it around the out loop or something in between?

The ball remains in the shooter lane and just keeps trying to plunge out onto the playfield repeatedly over and over again.

Tech help with Accelerator Board. Hoping someone on this thread who is presumably smarter than me can help me trace a wire.

The question is: at which connector location(s) do the 2 black wires that originate in J7 on the accelerator board ground on the Power Driver board? A friend is helping me troubleshoot a slow supercharger and thinks that there might be a problem with the connector. Have run tests on the magnets, optos, swapped power driver and accelerator boards, and am still befuddled.

Turns out the manual is incorrect. J7 does not ground to J131. Thanks JanS for confirming that J131 is not even used. Anyone have an idea where it actually grounded?

Finally got around to finishing up some mods. Designed my own traffic light and a supercharger ramp sign replacement that uses 1" inserts.

My shifter surround was rather sad looking too so I came up with a shaft/knob/surround replacement. The shift knob has a translucent insert (with a small inset bull logo) that hooks into the shift lamp and gives you a visual indicator on the knob when it's time to shift.

Everything is available in my pinside store now.

Now with those all done I can finally play my game again lol.

P4151536 (resized).png

P4151541 (resized).JPG

That's nifty, but not necessary for the light on the shifter. I don't know anyone that needs an indicator on the knob to let you know when to shift. Much easier to look down on the playfield.

I think its aesthetics over function. Its super neat but not a mod I'd do. That stop light looks pro!

I’d be in for the shift plate if it could be used with the factory handle. Don’t know if handle would fit through your plate to install. I like your concept but wouldn’t want the light.

Yea it’s just a bit of extra flair. As you can see by the hardware and paint on my cabinet, it’s been super routed (it was originally in Italy) so my whole shifter area was a bit sad looking, so I went all out to distract from the paint

It will work with the factory shift knob but you’ll have to take the shifter apart to get it on.

Tomorrow I’ll play around with the file to see what it’d look like if it can slip over the factory knob. Maybe if I split it in half...hmm...

Thanks! I had a v1 that was wider, but after installing it looked too big. I was able to narrow it down by like 10mm which made it look a lot better.

BTW your colorization Of Getaway is great, I installed my pin2dmd mod in February and it’s awesome.

Would the 4th bolt fit with this? Doesn't appear that way

No idea...

I kind of like the SC ramp sign face. I may try one with my custom SC sign, but I think that 3/4” inserts would look better than the 1” ones (may have to grind the depth down on the inserts some).

It will with the smaller text I ended up using on the final version. I got ahead of myself putting it back together and then realized the text interfered with the 4th bolt. I scaled the text down one font size and fixed the problem.

Hard to see by the photo but my sign replaces the entire assembly. You just reuse the PCBs, so the inserts are flush with the front. 1” inserts are what I have on hand, but 3/4” might be nice too.

Yes, I did see that, but I like my UV reactive backplate, and a matching face might look good.

Yea I think there's a few options that could look good here. I feel inserts give a more polished look vs exposed bulbs. The UV reactive filament is cool touch too. This is one of the few games where neon kinda fits with the theme. I should try to get some pink EL in here somewhere lol.

Finally got enough time to install the red light target stickers (no before) and the super charger loop sticker:
before:
oldsuper (resized).jpg
after:
newsuper (resized).jpg

LOVE IT

I also got the mph/rpm/n20 gauge stickers in:
before:
white (resized).jpg
after:
whitestickered (resized).jpg

My only issue now is that the balls sometimes get stuck in the hold under donut heaven, but I cant figure out why.

Here's something kinda fun. Check out the red/blue apron lights during video mode and multiball (at 20 second mark and again at the 2 minute marks). Please excuse the sloppy gameplay with a camera between me and the pin.

That's pretty cool. How did you achieve it (or are you going to be selling as a mod)?

Yeah that is really kool !

What did you use to remove the old decal? Hair dryer? I have had mine for six months, still haven't installed it. Thanks.

Hairdryer or heat gun on low if you are careful. Just warm the entire decal to loosen the adhesive and remove in a single piece (if you do mess it up, I do sell replicas if you want to keep an “original”). Clean surface, test fit new decal, remove backing, start at one end aligning the top, and then apply pressure to entire height of decal to prevent air bubbles as you progress horizontally until the decal is fully applied.

new one right on top of the old one

That’s one way to do it.