Pulled this from pinball repair guides. Some other things to check now that you know the board is getting battery power.

Is Power getting Past the Battery Holder? (bad diode D2 or RAM U8)
If the battery holder is OK, next check to see if power it getting past the battery holder. Find CPU board diode D2 (1n4148, all WPC revisions); this is a small glass diode, right next to diode D1 (1n5817). To find D2, on WPC-S and prior, look to the right of the big square chip U9. On WPC-95, look just below the battery holder. With your game off and new batteries installed, put your DDM on DC volts and put the black lead on the backbox ground strap. Then put the red lead on diode D2 on the CPU board. The banded side of the diode should show about 1/2 volts less than the non-banded side (which should be about 4.3 volts). If only one side of the diode shows voltage, or both sides show the same voltage, this diode D2 is bad. Diode D2 is a 1N4148 or 1N914 diode. The D2 can be replaced with a 1n4001 in a pinch (the 1n4148 or 1n914 is a 'faster' diode, but in this situation a 1n4001 will work fine.) Note that diode D1 is a 1n5817, which has a low .2 volt forward voltage drop. In a pinch a 1n4001 can be substituted here too (with a .4 volt forward voltage drop, not quite as much power gets to the ASIC/RAM when the game is turned on). But using a 1n5817 gives the game better power management to the RAM/ASIC when the game is turned on.

Next test for voltage at the CPU U8 RAM chip (all WPC revisions). With the game off, you should get about 4.3 volts DC at pins 26, 27 or 28 of chip U8. If you don't, the battery voltage is not getting to the U8 RAM chip, and the game will boot up with the "Factory Settings Restored" error. Note pin 28 of the 28 pin U8 chip is in the same position as pin 1 of the chip, but on the opposite row of pins. Pin 1 is designated with an impressed "dot" right on the top of the chip.

There can still be problems even if a new batteries are installed and all the voltages check out. If the game is still giving "Factory Setting Restored" or "Set Time and Date" errors, there may be a bad CPU U8 RAM chip. This does happen where a bad U8 RAM will suck the life out of new batteries, causing them to go dead in one to four weeks. But make sure to double check that battery holder. Even minor corrosion can cause this problem. The voltages may all check out, but the corrosion may be enough to limit CURRENT, and cause this problem. The U8 RAM chip is a 6264-L or 2064 RAM chip.

There is some battery damage on the resistors at R31. Not sure if the chip below those resistors has anything to do with settings memory?

Got this idea from another post somewhere, but thought I'd give it a try. However, I upgraded to the Comet 20 SMD strip (10 SMD was recommended). Gives some nice backlighting on the wall. Position pic is actually on my JP, but on my Getaway I adhered the light strip to the top of the cabinet.
IMG_3694 (resized).JPGIMG_3693 (resized).JPG

I've had Comet frosted LEDs in my SC sign for quite some time, so since I was placing an order for other things I decided to try their non-ghosting faceted bulbs (yellow & red): https://www.cometpinball.com/products/faceted-non-ghosting. I actually like these better with the clear dome instead of the frosted white, and they are quite bright.

IMG_3588 (resized).JPG

SC.gif

For those of you who have been missing out on the greatness of PinSound, now is your chance (I just received this promo email):

Hundreds of machines everywhere, thousands of pinball friends, a fantastic venue in Texas, ... It should have happened this weekend. A huge shoutout for all the hard work and effort done by the TPF team! For every order placed from Friday to Sunday on our shop, we will donate 5% to the Texas Pinball Festival to help them recoup their costs and investments.

For now, as we all have to stay safe, here are our special deals from our virtual PinSound TPF booth:

buy 1 PinSound Ultimate Pack and get free shipping on your order - coupon code TPF20ULTIMATE
buy 1 PinSound+ sound board, get 1 Headphones Station for free - coupon code TPF20HPS
buy 1 DMDLux, get a No More Reset for free - coupon code TPF20LUX

Deals only valid from Friday 27 to Sunday 29 March

The headphone station is absolutely essential for The Getaway.

Working Orange X pin replacement dmd for sale if anyone needs /one spare. Comes with gasket and filter.

37B66112-0AA6-4BE4-B0C2-F3470DC8C0CE (resized).jpeg

66FEB279-D072-4EBB-99EC-E9DC2580EC08 (resized).jpeg

FD553AF1-DADF-4E6A-81DC-4D1EFD3E2FD6 (resized).png

What would cause a flipper to get weaker and weaker as you play? My left flipper starts out strong then after an hour of play it gets weak..

Interesting, I have the exact same problem with my Data East GnR. Been trying to figure it out for a while. I think my issue is related to power to the flipper. Does it move slower?

Yeah it moves slower for sure..

Well one good thing that came out of this is I finally have my getaway done. Titan Rubbers, Comet LED’s, LED flipper buttons, trough LED strip, and a few stickers.

Question I never looked into before, what does everyone do with their old incandescent bulbs? I have about 250 of all types from two machines.

2C5DFA54-A34A-485C-8B42-D9AB99A66292 (resized).jpeg

380949B0-220C-4381-8E85-8634BF3C59AE (resized).jpeg

7A0BC7C9-9305-48DA-9392-446FA50FE2B0 (resized).jpeg

CC6AE388-B7B5-473D-BF37-B1E2CA98EF8C (resized).jpeg

One use is to use them to protect light sockets when painting a backpanel.

Very nice and clean looking Getaway!

As far as incandescent bulbs, mine all sat in a box for about two years in my walk-in attic until I cleaned stuff out a few months ago and they all went in the trash.

The cabinet is a bit rough but the playfield (diamond plated) is in great shape and now is playing super fast that is is all cleaned up!

Even though as many of these pins were made as there were (13,259 of them), it is pretty seldom that the cabinets aren't beat up or at least terribly faded.

Looking for a topper/siren for my getaway if anyone has one!

You mean the beacon light? If so, do you just need the red plastic dome or the entire assembly (motor, dome, etc.)?

I need the entire assembly!

I think pinball spare parts Austrailia has a used one for sale, unless it sold already

Tilted Pinball reproduced it:
https://www.tiltedpinball.com/tilted-pinball-shop/the-getaway-beacon/

I'd want to make sure your EOS switch is clean and adjusted properly, it is key to minimizing overheating of the coil. Just fixed a game here last night with that issue. Coil gets way too hot and loses power.

Can anyone tell me how this post attaches to the playfield?

POST - STAR DOUBLE CLEAR 1-1/16 INCH TALL
#03-8247-13
Star double clear post 1-1/16 inch tall common to late model Bally and Williams pinball machines.

Requires 2 rubber rings.

Reference:

03-8247-13
Substitute for 545-5209-01
Weight: 0.11 oz

Thanks!

Might be something like this but there's 2 sizes a #6 and a #8. Im not sure which. #6 is the thinner one and out of stock at Marcos.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5010-01

This has been my daily driver for over a year and I just realized the significance.

IMG_20200403_105125~2.jpg

Sweet! "...Suspect ran a red light, over."

I'm the proud new owner of a Getaway pinball machine but unfortunately have run into my first problem. The upper right flipper is now stuck in the "up" position. I took the the glass of and forced it back down. When I started playing again, after about 15 flips, it slowly starts to travel back to the "up" position where it gets stuck again.

Think I should do a full flipper re-build? I don't know anything about pinball machine repair, have never actually lifted the whole playfield up before. However, I've got some time off work so this might be a good time to learn!

Any help is very appreciated. Thanks!

So, if you move it up by hand it doesn’t return to the down position? Most likely something came loose and is out of alignment or the sleeve or linkage is gummed up and needs to be cleaned. Another issue could be if the coil has swelled this putting more pressure on the coil sleeve.

We've had a Getaway sat in our house for a few years now, and have finally got around to fixing a few niggles now that we're stuck at home in quarantine. We've replaced all of the rubbers and broken lamps, and fixed a couple of switch issues, but that has all been done by common sense and guesswork, and we've got a few issues left which I think require a bit more expertise.

The manual says that 4th gear supercharger mode should be a 2 ball multiball, but the machine doesn't ever release a second ball, or even make any noise indicating that it is trying to launch it. There are no other problems with launching balls in any other situation, including normal multiball.

Also, the big red light on top never lights or rotates, instead there is a very loud crack each time we think it is trying to activate. What is the most sensible order for me to approach troubleshooting? Happy to be pointed to another post if helpful, I had a quick search but wasn't able to find anything about a crack noise.

I’ve never heard of 4th gear being a multi ball. That’s supercharger mode, and I don’t see where in that section Of the manual where it refers to a 2 ball multi ball (page XI).

Page V of this version https://www.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_English_Manual_with_OCR.pdf says that 4th gear awards supercharger mode which is a 2 ball multiball, I assumed that it was standard. After I posted I saw reference in an older post to it being specific to a certain software version, but I have no idea how to go about anything software related.

pinball (resized).PNG

Ah, it see that in mine on that page too.

I don’t see that feature listed in the ROM version posts I’ve seen in here either.

Going to need someone with more historical experience than me to comment on it.

Just found this, whatever P7 is: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-correct-code#post-850333

Maybe it was in the pre-release but taken out and they forgot to remove the reference in the manual.

Is it just standard for it to be a 20 second timer and a single ball then?

Don't suppose you have any suggestions on things to check relating to the red light?

Yes, I think that is standard (you may be able to adjust the mode time in settings).

Sorry, but I be not had any issues with my beacon light.

You can see what happens in test mode. If it still fails, visually check the wiring connections, and put a meter on it to see if it is getting correct voltage. If voltage is correct the may be a frozen/bad motor.

Never heard of a 2 ball multi-ball, doesn't exist.

Thank you to Mr_Tantrum for shipping the mountain mod to Australia. Here are a few pictures. It's one of the best Mods. Even non pinball people who have played my machine comment "is that new looks cool"

Also, it installed quite easily. I had no problems and I am totally happy with it! Very high quality

20200405_110602 (resized).jpg

20200405_110614 (resized).jpg

20200405_110624 (resized).jpg

Brand new to the thread. Just picked up HS2 today. I'm looking for a ramp lifting mechanism. Looks like someone zip-tied the ramp in the "UP" position. smh. Please help.

thanks

What parts are missing ?

Pinball Spare Parts Autrailia has a few components available, but complete assembly is difficult to locate

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/the-getaway-high-speed-ii/b-12576.html

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/the-getaway-high-speed-ii/b-11302.html

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/the-getaway-high-speed-ii/02-4268.html

typically the plunger link or the lift pin are the failure modes that I've seen the most

Thanks Pinstein looks cool now I need to change some LED’s in the backbox!

774DCA6E-EEDA-41B2-9E8D-DC731CB95603 (resized).jpeg

Can you see what I'm missing? This coil just hanging down in there. Previous owner zip-tied the ramp lift in the up position.

20200404_211303 (resized).jpg

20200405_140411 (resized).jpg

20200405_140421 (resized).jpg

I have a spare bracket that mounts to the play field. Give me a pm.

Yeah, got my first two machines. I pick a couple of GOOD ones!

20200404_154838 (resized).jpg

holy you are missing a bunch of parts, check out the maunal as previous poster said and figure it out, but looks as though you are missing the complete assembly as per you first post . . .

Hey everyone, my V6 of my Pendulum Pinsound remix is finally active (for some reason it got missed in approvals). Check it out!

Download here:

http://pinsound-community.org/forum/index.php?/files/file/295-hs2-the-getaway-coyohtays-dnb-mix/

Here are some picks of mine. Yes looks like you are missing quite a bit.

20200405_162710 (resized).jpg

20200405_162737 (resized).jpg

Thanks so much for the pics. That is really helpful. I'm not too good at the diagrams.

So the coil you have hanging is what picks the ramp up, the small coil releases the latch that holds the ramp up for it to drop down.
I am guessing the switch tells the game whether the ramp is in the up or down position.

Finale will premiere tonight, everyone! Mr. Tantrum will be getting a lot of shout outs due to the mods. lol.

Looking forward to seeing your awesome restoration.

Can someone confirm the ball trap bracket I need? I cleaned my playfield and now occasionally when I hit the left orbit while the ramp is down, it will shoot off the ramp and end up stuck just behind where the ball lock (donut heaven) area is. I'm guessing the part I need is Marco Specialties 01-10904, bracket ball trap. Can someone confirm? Thanks!