Where can one purchase this?

Marco used to have them in stock.

Photo for big cat 68.

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I also have this for sale but key does come out....

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These also avail.

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Marco doesn’t seem to have the checkpoint key anymore. Sometimes they come up on eBay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071QWNBFN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

Well, this button is a "no go" for two reasons: 1) It requires that some washer be designed for it in order to not just fall in the larger outside hole (something I could definitely 3D print if I wanted) or it is just too far recessed, and 2) it is not deep enough, so no way to get the nut on the back.

Looking more closely at yours it looks like it sits recessed into the larger hole, but still extends out - is this correct? Did you figure out how to wire the light?

My button required NO modifications. Fits right in. I haven't worked on the lighting for it - I don't think it will work. The button is designed to allow power to go from one point to another. Where as with pinball we are directing a DC signal to the MPU. Someone suggests hooking up the GI to the the third lug. no. I'm not connecting 8v AC to the NC connection of a switch. That won't work. The controlled lighting needs a designated ground as well as the switch needs its designated ground.

I new Getaway owner recently asked if I could make a roadway decal for the large clear plastic above the ball lock. He referenced this post from TheOnlyest which I had somehow overlooked: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/getaway-club-dispatch-run-a-make-on-license-plate-kingpin/page/99#post-3584841

After PM'ing @TheOnlyest, he graciously agreed to allow me to reproduce and sell roadway decals for this plastic. I stylized the graphic some, and created a reverse decal to be adhered to the underside of the plastic. I figured this was the best approach since it would give the appearance of an OEM plastic and since many of us affix cars to the top the underside decal would not be damaged in the process.

I create these decals using my typical high quality materials and process, and round cut the corners to better align with the plastic. For installation simply remove the plastic from the game (2 screws), clean the bottom of the plastic, remove the adhesive backing from the top of the roadway decal, carefully align, then "roll" decal on from one end to the other applying even pressure (a small squeegee or credit card is perfect for this). After the decal is applied you'll need to use a razor knife to cut out the screw holes (I don't pre-cut the holes as some plastics may not align the same). When done, re-install the new decaled plastic and enjoy!

I'm offering these for $12 each including US Postage ($15 for outside US). As always, please PM me if interested in purchasing.

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Got a lot of decals from Mr_Tantrum and they are amazing! Well done sir!

Also got run LED's for the pop bumpers.

Honestly the mountain decal and the led lights add so much to the game visually! The hairpin decal is awesome. Everything is great! Love the supercharger decal being so much larger and better than the original.

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There was/is tone from j212 to the shifter.

Now I'll try going from j206 to u20. I think I've done that and it was ok. But I'll check again as it's been a couple weeks and I'm not sure.

BTW, if anyone has a ratted original SC decal and would like to replace with the same, I make these reproductions for $15 shipped. Just PM if interested.

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I gave the Total Nuclear Annihilation mix a go, its really good. Check out the short video of me playing Total Nuclear Annihilation mix on Youtube -

Thanks for the cool mix

Using the level on the right side of the playfield, what have yall found is the best slope/angle/setup for this game?

Sorry if this is common knowledge. ‍♂️

Manual recommends between 6 to 6.5 degrees. That's between the first and second line on the bubble level. Adjust higher or lower to taste.

The "PinGuy" app works perfectly for this. Download for free from relevant phone brand store, put on level surface and calibrate, then place in center of playfield (glass off) and app will help you calibrate side-to-side and front-to-back levelling. What's nice is that the voice on the app continually calls out both axis levelling measurements, so you can be under the pin correcting the leg adjustments without having to continually bob up and down to check level.

6.5 degrees is perfect for this game IMO.

Still no Android version as far as I can tell

Oh, sorry. That was an assumption on my part.

So, to modify my previous post, download the app on your iPhone or find a relative/friend who has an iPhone and invite them over to play pinball. Before you get started tell them about this cool app you heard about and have them download it so you can show them. In the process of demonstrating the cool app, actually level your pin - they'll just think you are giving them some real insight what it's like to own a pinball machine.

SOLD

I made a new alternate translite with a little more story and sex appeal. Fun for some!

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Thats nice! Will you be selling copies of this?

Thanks!

For those that don't know, not only did Scott Danesi create Total Nuclear Annihilation (the pin), but he also created all the music for it as well. He continues to be very active on the forums for his game and is constantly improving it based on customer feedback and feature requests. A lot of pinheads dismiss TNA due to it's lack of toys or ramps, but it is a VERY FAST game (like HS2) and a blast to play. I believe it is the only pin with a co-op mode, which is great to play with someone with a different skill set.

I have Android. But I did get a leveling app. I set it at about 7.2. But tonight I leveled it out a little. I didn't like not making the shots and at the top it seemed slow. I think I have it dialed in right now. Might check the angle tonight and share.

Well you picked the right EVERYTHING for that! Wowza! That's hot!

Problem is (for me anyway)...not sure the lights (flashers especially) would match up.

Nice job. If I didn’t have the CPR backglass I’d consider yours if it were for sale.

It's skillfull, but mismatched like most of the other ones that make use of photorealistic art. Getaway is NOT NOT NOT photorealistic. No matter how skillful the maker. Please apply your skill to matched art and I am sure the result will be great!

I would concur with this. I've seen a variety of Getaway alternate translites that have been well done composition and quality wise (this one is quite original and well done artistically), but I would really like to see something that was in more of the overall style of the artwork on the game. Call it "cartoonish" maybe, but defiantly not photo-realistic.

I do hear what you are saying. When you see it full size it has a much more graphic style appearance. I realize it doesnt match the playfield art style but thats not all too uncommon in pinball like Attack from Mars for example. It really doesnt look photographic in physical viewing and closer to a graphic render. I cant hand draw so this is the closet I could come with images I could hunt down and use. I had fun making it.

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“Dispatch, this is 504. Suspect got away."
"He WHAT?!"
"HE - GOT - AWAY!!"

Heading home, joined the club. LED’D, color dmd and diamond plated playfield. A little bonus when I raised the playfield. A manual and a new set of licensed plastics!
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Do you need me to call 911 . . . looks like your vehicle rolled over on its side!

Wait a minute, you appear to be upright in that last pic - whew, glad you are safe (honestly, I was more concerned about the pin than your well-being).

With that out of the way, congratulations! We have a great club hear: passionate owners, experienced technical insight, a multitude of owner created mods (shameless self-promoting plug), and we even like to take friendly jabs at each other on occasion.

Alright soldering on a battery pack and it doesn’t work. Sometimes these things work and sometimes they don’t.. Is there a different spot to solder these packs onto? What’s the trick? I am getting the correct voltages on both sides of the board too but the memory still doesn’t hold on the game.. Three AA battery pack holder reading 4.8v

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The polarity is wrong, you have -4.8v.

Please explain how I fix that? I just put my DMM testing points on red to red and black to black..

Yes, but your meter is showing a negative voltage. Swap the two wires on the board. The red and black are hooked up incorrectly on the battery holder.

Okay so is that suggesting my batteries are in backwards? When they aren’t?

Are your batteries in the holder correct? Does the holder (China) have the red/black wires reversed. Check the holder disconnected from the CPU until you get the correct reading, then connect it to the expensive CPU board.

Here’s a different machine and it still doesn’t work. Higher voltage different style battery pack.
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This one is 6.4v because it’s a double coin battery.

Yeah must be the Chinese holder, I reversed the wires now it works.

Here’s the other machine I solder a battery pack on it and it doesn’t work. Meter reads 6.4v

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This one looks correct. It doesn't store settings after you change them? Double check that there isn't any damage on the boardset.

I don’t see any damage to the board. Here’s a picture of the board by the battery area.
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Correct it doesn’t storage the settings after I save them.

What is that piece in your hand?

A coin battery holder.

Thanks

Can you pop the board off and measure the voltages on the back? Possibly a bad solder connection?

You don't have the wires connected the same as the last board.

Always check new parts before installing, some bad parts have caused board damage.

Okay yes, I am getting the same voltage on the backside of the board as the front. I tired soldering it differentLy to see if it would work by switching the wires to the other positive and negative sides of the battery. Regardless it’s doesn’t work..